Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 118 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3511 of 3543 Old 12-09-2014, 08:03 AM
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"we ware having some issues with shrinking color spaces and all colors drifting towards blue with Sony HW50 and also VW90/95 and also the gamma value goes down, even at only a few hundred hours. It seems to be an ongoing process and after a while you won't be able to even recalibrate the colors to the Rec709 colorspace, and even with gamma setting 2.6 in the menu you can't reach at least 2.2. Some projectors also seem to lose native on/off-contrast."


First of all, thank you for reporting the anomaly seen on your PJ's. Just so we are on the same page, I also use "Chroma Pure" software and a spectroradiometer for measurements.


Addressing the color space issue first. At 2300+ hours and with a hour of tweaking, I was able to nearly peg every primary/secondary to r709 specs with the tools available on the pj. Had it drifted from new? Certainly, but not more than I have seen with other displays/PJ's over the years since starting as an ISF tech in '01-'02. While much is made of colorspace here on this site and others, quite frankly the discrepancies in measured perfection and then the difference seen by the naked eye with regard to colorspace, are limited by the imperfections in our own eyes. While I hesitate to say that accurate colorspace is not a big issue, it certainly causes less problems than say improper white and black level settings or color temperature misalignments.


Gamma, on my projector is still at 2.2-2.4 depending on the high/low lamp setting and I was able to still calibrate to d65 with very low de. from 20 to 100 ire.


That being said I have the following questions if I may.


1. When Ekki was taking his measurements was his probe directed at the screen or the PJ? It is difficult to see in the pix


2. Did he move the probe to a more central location and re shoot for results? (I have found that color uniformity on the Sony is not one of its strong points.)


3. Your measurement results do not appear to show a before/after gray scale calibration. Were you able to reign in the preponderance of blue?


Again, I personally thank you for the report and links. It prompted me to un furl my gear and take a reading. I had calibrated my setup when new and touched it up at about 500 hours but I had not checked it since. My projector, still with the original lamp, did not see the drift that yours did but that could well be that your projector and mine came from completely different batches, and possibly, different manufacturing sites.


Doug k

Imaging Science Foundation Technician ( Almost Retired )
www.6500kcalibrations.com

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post #3512 of 3543 Old 12-10-2014, 07:16 AM
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Hi William and Doug,

thanks for your answers. So the problem is not totally unknown here at AVS.

Btw: VW90 and 95 are also affected as it seems.
@Doug : How old is your pj?
The suspicion is that it has to do with the total age of the pj rather than lamp time. My HW50 and the one I measured from "Nasty_Boy" in hifi-forum are some of the firste ones that have been delivered, from Oct. and Nov. 2012.
Last weekend I measured a HW50 with 1600 hrs on the lamp, this pj was from March 2013. It also showed the drifts toward blue and low gamma, but was easier to recalibrate as the one from "Nasty_Boy". And this is your answer your question nr. 3: Yes the projector of "Nasty_Boy" was recalibratable (is that the right term?), but not so easily. The white point at 10 IRE I could not bring back to 6500 K. While all other IREs are ok, 10 IRE is way too green, blue is totally missing. I know that measurements at low IREs are difficult even with my Eye One Display 3, but you can easily see it with the naked eye that the lowest greyscales are too green.
Concerning gamma: The highest setting in the picture menu is 2.6. With this setting we reached a real gamma of 2.1 which is still a bit on the low side, since Nasty_Boy has a room with many dark walls and ceiling so he could watch with a higher gamma. But with menu settings no higher gamma is possible. For this I'd have to use the Image Director software I think. Haven't used it before because a) the Sonys normally are very good out of the box ore easy to calibrate with the menu and b) using the software is a bit cumbersome, as you need a RS232-to-USB-cable etc. I'd like to have an Image Director app for my tablet...
Regarding colors I also managed to recalibrate both projectors to Rec709, using one of the (still) bigger color spaces 2 or 3 and the RCP. What I've not done yet is to measure some colors inside the color space (and not only at the extreme saturation points) to see how linear the calibration is.
The pj with 1600 hrs lamp time was extremely dark btw. I measured 540 lumen in HIGH lamp mode....

You said your gamma depends on low or high lamp mode? This seems unusal. I measured 3 HW50 in the last weeks all in high and low lamp mode and gamma (and contrast) remains the same basically.


Concerning your other 2 questions about Ekkis measurements: I don't know exactly but I think he measures reflective and in the middle of the screen.
Since Ekki is doing projector reviews and calibrations for many many years now and is also internationally known, I'm totally sure that he knows what he's doing!
Afaik he has also an account at AVS, so you could send him a pm with your questions.

Christian
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post #3513 of 3543 Old 12-10-2014, 01:40 PM
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Mine was purchased late in 2012.
I should have said "not depending" on high/low lamp setting...sorry.

My probe does an awful job at or below 10 ire as well. I sacrifice the numbers there and correct by eye. Since we see green better than other low light colors, I was taught to do this.

I know that when I move my probe to different areas og the screen, my results change. The color uniformity issue I mentioned. From the pix it appeared that the probe was in the lower left quadrant, but it could be that the angle of the photo made it appear so.

To me, drift is a normal occurance. It has been reduced somewhat by todays tech but I was weened on CRT's.... Talk about drift!

Doug k
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post #3514 of 3543 Old 12-12-2014, 01:33 PM
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People can you give some advice, thanks in advance

So my doubt is between Sony Hw50 or Hw40?? I found in my country a Hw50 cheaper than hw40 and with 2 years of warranty, what are your advice??

Best regards.
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post #3515 of 3543 Old 12-16-2014, 09:06 AM
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I purchased my HW50 in December 2012, today it has already done roughly 800 hours with the same lamp

after reading last posts here I recognized there was maybe a little problem with red saturation... I was also not completely satisfied about gamma... so I decided to connect everything together and test the situation

I have an i1 Display PRO + Colormunky Design (to calibrate i1) + Calman 5 Enthusiast + dvdo duo

the pj was setted as follow (right from the beginning):
- lamp low
- iris: auto-limited (but when I calibrate it I use to switch to fix and value 40 that is roughly equivalent in my app)
- color temperature: user 3 (D65)
- gamma: 2,2
- color space: BT709

the result of testing was... a gamut smaller than the standard selected, no way to expand it at the targets (I tested with and without the dvdo CMS engaged), gamma roughly 1,7 … last time I calibrate it everything was quite on target, roughly the lamp was at 500 hours (400 hours/year)


to recover the correct situation I setted the pj as follow:
- lamp low
- iris: fixed at 20 (I wanted deeper blacks and I preferred to close the iris in fixed position instead of using the dynamic mode that doesn't lower in the same manner the black in more common contents)
- color temperature: user 3
- gamma: 2,6 (necessary to go as close as possible to target BT1886 before final fine adjustment with Calman5)
- color space: color space 1 (color space 2 or 3 are too wide)


starting from this settings I had a color space wider than the target BT709 for all the three colors... point D65 almost on spot from the beginning...

using the CMS inside the projector was quite easy to shrink the values 100% at their targets but with big problems about almost all values 80% (and lower) that were quite under saturated... so I switched to 80% targets (generated by Duo so 100% saturation and 80% stimulus) to calibrate the HW50 CMS on that, this time the modification inside the CMS required smaller variations (and this is in my experience always a good sign) to calibrate the values... checking again the full gamut I found all the values from 20% to 80% perfectly on target, the 100% remain wider but this is IMHO not so important. I didn't use the CMS control inside Dvdo as it was not necessary at all (I also had bad experience with autocal functionality and CMS in the past... imho it is not reliable enough)

after that I checked the colors with the "color checker" inside Calman and the results were all perfectly on target

the gamma was close to value 2,15 using controls inside the pj with deltaE well below 3... using autocal inside Calman (with gamma it works in fantastic way) I perfectly reach the targets (BT1886) with deltaE lower than 0,5 on all IRE


so, seems that even after 2 years is still possible to calibrate the projector and compensate the drift in gamut... in any case I'm wondering why it happens, what are the components inside the pj that with ageing generate this problem and if this problem will stops now or if it will continue in future maybe with smaller steps


my 2 cents

Last edited by lupoal; 01-12-2015 at 12:24 AM. Reason: - wrong value declared for real Gamma with setting at 2,2 -
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post #3516 of 3543 Old 12-26-2014, 07:59 AM
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Hello people,

Please share with me some info, this projector in low lamp, the best settings with little zoom and a screen of 100' +- can give how many lumens +-??

Thanks in advance
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post #3517 of 3543 Old 12-27-2014, 07:15 AM
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I don't have the specs but I do have this projector on a 110" screen at about 14' and it looks amazing. People comment all the time. I'm still on my first lamp and have had it a bit over a year.
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post #3518 of 3543 Old 12-27-2014, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbuck View Post
I don't have the specs but I do have this projector on a 110" screen at about 14' and it looks amazing. People comment all the time. I'm still on my first lamp and have had it a bit over a year.
"Please share with me some info, this projector in low lamp, the best settings with little zoom and a screen of 100' +- can give how many lumens +-??"

This pj provides excellent images, calibrated.... Outstanding for the price.

Anybody can adjust the b/w levels with a simple test disk. A lux meter app and the math when setting white levels will provide a theater reference light output level with low lamp settings on all but the largest screens with resonable throw.

Others actual setting numbers will do little for you unless you test the pj yourself in your room, or have it done by a pro/friend with the necessary probes and programs.

Doug k
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post #3519 of 3543 Old 12-30-2014, 04:44 AM
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Hello All


I really hate to post here instead of over in the HW40ES but this is a "mounting" question. Since the 40ES is still new and posted this over there I figure maybe some feedback from the 50/55 owners would help.


We're going to mount this on the wall since going on the ceiling is almost impossible. We have a "fake" suspended ceiling; one with tiles but on a snap-on grid system to the joists. This is our first projector and I'm unsure on the mounts. The unit is basically identical to the 50/55 model in weight and holes coming in at around 22lbs and hole spacing around 5-1/4 which seems a bit tight to me. I've picked two models and just need opinions on both if you don't mind.


I like the clean look of the Monoprice model but the mounting bracket is smaller and minimum distance is longer at 16 3/4". The Peerless has a shorter minimum distance off the wall at 12 3/4, a larger wall mount bracket but seems to have far more parts, screws to assemble which seems to have a potential of play. Plus no cover for the bracket.


Peerless - https://www.peerless-av.com/en-us/pr...l/products/PPA


Monoprice - http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2


Thank you for you time and suggestions
Kenny J - USA - Nashville TN
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post #3520 of 3543 Old 12-30-2014, 08:38 AM
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Why not just placing it on a shelf, or a bookcase?

With the lens shift flexibility in the hw40 you won't need to mount it high or upside down.

My first projector was a "cheap" optoma and it took about 4 attempts and two weeks to get it mounted right. The hw50 however I just plopped ontop a bookcase and dialed it in under 5 minutes.
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post #3521 of 3543 Old 12-30-2014, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorTorden View Post
Why not just placing it on a shelf, or a bookcase?

With the lens shift flexibility in the hw40 you won't need to mount it high or upside down.

My first projector was a "cheap" optoma and it took about 4 attempts and two weeks to get it mounted right. The hw50 however I just plopped ontop a bookcase and dialed it in under 5 minutes.

We actually were going to do just that but where it would go is also between the two LazBoy loveseat recliners where the traffic goes. We have a sort of a divider wall that comes out behind one of the LazBoys and the space where something would go can only be around 18 to 22 inches wide and about 18 inches deep. The worry is all it would take would be a bad bump or knock so it's going up.


Update - We're going to end up getting a Peerless Model that can either be directly mounted or use 1.5" Plumber Pipe threaded into the top.....


Peerless PRGUNV - http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUN...QQ0WRNP4J1FQAQ


I cannot mount directly but I can run a pipe up thru the ceiling tile and attach it to a wood brace above the ceiling. Anyone use this model and with a pipe? Just curious any issues with the mounting pattern.

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post #3522 of 3543 Old 01-08-2015, 07:08 PM
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So I am just about to hit 3000 hours on my original bulb! I clean the filter about every 500 hours and occasionally recheck the calibration that I can do with the Disney WOW disc - I did that at about 100 hours and every 1000 hours and just did it again last night. The settings have changed very little if at all, maximum of 1 increment in any adjustments. I think my picture still looks great and don't have any brightness concerns at all nor have I been affected by any noticeable flicker as others have reported.

At 2995 hours I started getting a pop up to change the bulb and filter. This goes away after about a minute so not bothersome but the source of questions. Are there any adverse affects or concerns with continuing with this bulb? That is, I know bulbs can occasionally break / shatter but the manual discusses some cautions in this regard, and I also know I can expect the brightness and possibly the color palette to diminish as the bulb ages. But until I start to notice or can no longer adjust the picture to an acceptable quality, is there any damage that I could incur?

This is only the second projector I've owned but the first one I had needed a bulb at least every 750 hours max as it became unwatchable or the bulb just died before that so don't have any experience with a bulb lasting anywhere near this long. Should I just reset the lamp to make the notice go away and continue on until I don't like the picture anymore or is there a damage consideration I should be aware of?

Thanks for any insight.

Norm
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post #3523 of 3543 Old 01-08-2015, 07:08 PM
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So I am just about to hit 3000 hours on my original bulb! I clean the filter about every 500 hours and occasionally recheck the calibration that I can do with the Disney WOW disc - I did that at about 100 hours and every 1000 hours and just did it again last night. The settings have changed very little if at all, maximum of 1 increment in any adjustments. I think my picture still looks great and don't have any brightness concerns at all nor have I been affected by any noticeable flicker as others have reported.

At 2995 hours I started getting a pop up to change the bulb and filter. This goes away after about a minute so not bothersome but the source of questions. Are there any adverse affects or concerns with continuing with this bulb? That is, I know bulbs can occasionally break / shatter but the manual discusses some cautions in this regard, and I also know I can expect the brightness and possibly the color palette to diminish as the bulb ages. But until I start to notice or can no longer adjust the picture to an acceptable quality, is there any damage that I could incur?

This is only the second projector I've owned but the first one I had needed a bulb at least every 750 hours max as it became unwatchable or the bulb just died before that so don't have any experience with a bulb lasting anywhere near this long. Should I just reset the lamp to make the notice go away and continue on until I don't like the picture anymore or is there a damage consideration I should be aware of?

Thanks for any insight.

Norm
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post #3524 of 3543 Old 01-09-2015, 05:37 AM
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I'd also be interested in that and am approaching similar timing on my bulb with no noticeable issues!
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post #3525 of 3543 Old 01-09-2015, 06:15 AM
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In the store, as mentioned some time ago, I regularly had lamps that lasted up to 5000 hours or more.

To omit the "replace lamp" message, in the menu tell the unit you have replaced the lamp.

I'm at 2500 and have seen the same results as you. Very marginal changes over time and overall excellent performance.

Doug k

Last edited by ltd76gold; 01-09-2015 at 08:12 AM.
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post #3526 of 3543 Old 01-09-2015, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post
In the store, as mentioned some time ago, I regularly had lamps that lasted up to 5000 hours or more.

To omit the "replace lamp" message, in the menu tell the unit you have replaced the lamp.

I'm at 2500 and have seen the same results as you. Very marginal changes over time and overall excellent performance.

Doug k
Thanks for the reply, just needed a nudge to push me over the edge. I've seen your other posts in that regard but needed a little more reassurance.

3000 hours looks like a good number to reset the lamp and see how many hours I can actually get on it.

Thanks again.

Norm
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post #3527 of 3543 Old 01-09-2015, 08:20 PM
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Speaking of lamps, I still go through the periodic times where my lamp just flickers. Usually happens after the projector has been on for maybe 45 minutes or so. Then flicker, flicker, flicker - in low lamp. Switching to high lamp permanently, or to high and then back to low - solves it. It probably is a lamp arc thing. Last time it happened (maybe 50 hours ago), I left it in high lamp for maybe 15-20 hours of viewing. That resolved the issue in low lamp... for about 50 hours! And now it's back.

*sigh*

So back to high lamp mode again! Good thing I have two spare lamps. But I'm trying to avoid using them unless I have to. I only have 680 hours on the first lamp!
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post #3528 of 3543 Old 01-09-2015, 09:21 PM
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Try running on high mode for just a few minutes once. Then switch back to low and see what happens.

You may actually have a lamp that has the arcing problem more than most. Mine has done it a few times amd I just switch to high, let it run a bit, then back to low.

Since you have a replacement lamp, you could switch them and see if the new lamp flickers less, or perhaps, far less frequently.

Viewing an occasional 3d film is another way to "feel better" about not having to change power settings manually as 3d automatically switches to high.

I also reiterate that frequent on/off cycles are lamp killers. If you are going to view a film or tv throughout the day, leaving the pj on is better for it than turning it on and off several times a day.

Seems counter intuitive, but it does extend the lamps life in my experience.

Doug k
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post #3529 of 3543 Old 02-06-2015, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post
Try running on high mode for just a few minutes once. Then switch back to low and see what happens.

You may actually have a lamp that has the arcing problem more than most. Mine has done it a few times amd I just switch to high, let it run a bit, then back to low.

Since you have a replacement lamp, you could switch them and see if the new lamp flickers less, or perhaps, far less frequently.

Viewing an occasional 3d film is another way to "feel better" about not having to change power settings manually as 3d automatically switches to high.

I also reiterate that frequent on/off cycles are lamp killers. If you are going to view a film or tv throughout the day, leaving the pj on is better for it than turning it on and off several times a day.

Seems counter intuitive, but it does extend the lamps life in my experience.

Doug k
Thanks for the reply. Switching to high lamp for even 10 seconds resolves the flicker issue, but I've just left the lamp on high for the time being.

I do think my HW50ES's color uniformity is going down the toilet a bit, too, which is giving me terrible flashbacks to my Panasonic PT-AE7000U and PT-AE8000U, which both suffered from pretty appalling uniformity issues before I moved on to the Sony.

My HW50ES is quite a bit greener in the center (a round section of the center), whereas the left and right sides are a good deal "redder." Not sure how much of this can be attributed to the lamp - if at all, and how much of this is to just be expected..
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post #3530 of 3543 Old 02-07-2015, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post
Try running on high mode for just a few minutes once. Then switch back to low and see what happens.

You may actually have a lamp that has the arcing problem more than most. Mine has done it a few times amd I just switch to high, let it run a bit, then back to low.
..

Doug k
Think I am one of these, since I started noticing the flicker on low I have pretty much just had to run the lamp at high or it's to me like watching a rapid strobe light (although I'm sure my famility wouldnt notice it, to me it's intolerable) at this point I have conceded to just running this in high.

Although I'm wondering is this a lamp issue or a unit issue, inow if I replace the lamp should expect this to become normal or will it behave the same ?
I was expecting to buy a lamp annually but so far I am only at the 650 hour mark and the lamp had 200 hours on it from the previous owner (who also used the high settings), inow I have only used about 500 hours in little over a year at least 1000 hours less then I expected.
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post #3531 of 3543 Old 03-10-2015, 08:45 AM
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Any good tutorial on how to clean the filter? I'm only at around 500-600 hours (over 18 months!) because I've been way too busy with work and travel. But since it's been so long, I think a good cleaning is in order.

Thanks!

- Klipsch RF-82 ii, RC-62 ii, RS-52 ii
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post #3532 of 3543 Old 03-10-2015, 10:39 AM
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Check the OM for reference.
The filter and lamp are both accessed from the underside of the PJ. If yours is suspended from the ceiling, you do not have to remove the pj to access the filter.


Under the lens is a grated air intake, just like the front of most cars. 2 spring clips hold the intake in place. Depress both and slide forward. The filter is then in your hand along with the plastic grate. Be careful removing the very slim polymer filter. Wash gently with lukewarm h2o. Flatten and press between two paper towels until dry. Re-insert under plastic retaining tangs (8 I think). Slide back into pj. Re align image to screen.


see ya in another 500


Doug k

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www.6500kcalibrations.com

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post #3533 of 3543 Old 03-10-2015, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post
Check the OM for reference.
The filter and lamp are both accessed from the underside of the PJ. If yours is suspended from the ceiling, you do not have to remove the pj to access the filter.


Under the lens is a grated air intake, just like the front of most cars. 2 spring clips hold the intake in place. Depress both and slide forward. The filter is then in your hand along with the plastic grate. Be careful removing the very slim polymer filter. Wash gently with lukewarm h2o. Flatten and press between two paper towels until dry. Re-insert under plastic retaining tangs (8 I think). Slide back into pj. Re align image to screen.


see ya in another 500


Doug k
Hey Doug, where would you recommend for getting replacement bulbs? I see a lot of copy cats out there and was wondering if those bulbs could hurt the projector? Would you suggest only going with authentic Sony manufactured replacements directly from Sony?

Price ranges are also very wide as a result of these knock offs, but am not sure if I can trust them for such a low price or if I risk damaging the projector.
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post #3534 of 3543 Old 03-10-2015, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebase131 View Post
Hey Doug, where would you recommend for getting replacement bulbs? I see a lot of copy cats out there and was wondering if those bulbs could hurt the projector? Would you suggest only going with authentic Sony manufactured replacements directly from Sony?

Price ranges are also very wide as a result of these knock offs, but am not sure if I can trust them for such a low price or if I risk damaging the projector.
AVS sells them for a decent price. Not as cheap as some of the copy cats, but OEM.

contact mike@avscience.com

You could also go to amazon and get a phillips bulb lamp with non-sony made housing: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-LMP-H202-...words=lmp-h202

Others are also available for even cheaper.

- Klipsch RF-82 ii, RC-62 ii, RS-52 ii
- Klipsch RW-12D
- Sony HW50es
- Firehawk G3
- Denon 2113
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post #3535 of 3543 Old 03-10-2015, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post
Check the OM for reference.
The filter and lamp are both accessed from the underside of the PJ. If yours is suspended from the ceiling, you do not have to remove the pj to access the filter.


Under the lens is a grated air intake, just like the front of most cars. 2 spring clips hold the intake in place. Depress both and slide forward. The filter is then in your hand along with the plastic grate. Be careful removing the very slim polymer filter. Wash gently with lukewarm h2o. Flatten and press between two paper towels until dry. Re-insert under plastic retaining tangs (8 I think). Slide back into pj. Re align image to screen.


see ya in another 500


Doug k
Thank you! Way easier than I thought it would be.

- Klipsch RF-82 ii, RC-62 ii, RS-52 ii
- Klipsch RW-12D
- Sony HW50es
- Firehawk G3
- Denon 2113
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post #3536 of 3543 Old 03-10-2015, 11:18 AM
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I like OEM stuff.


It Fits
It Works
It does not leak ink..... whoops another story.


And Baloo has it right, snag one from here as soon as your primary lamp fails if , of course, you bought a 50 with the spare bulb in the kit. If not... get one today. Your primary will fail right when you least wish it to!

Imaging Science Foundation Technician ( Almost Retired )
www.6500kcalibrations.com

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For those that have done calibrations with CalMan or other software, what has been your experience with the 2pt gamma correction? I'm having a lot of trouble with low gamma readings using the 2.2 setting which I thought was supposed to be very close OOTB? Even at 2.6 I'm only seeing about 2.1? I'm using CalMan v5 with an i1 displayPro meter from SpectraCal. Is there anything obvious I should check as far as software settings, measurement procedure etc? My 2pt adjustment and 11pt measurement are attached below.
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post #3538 of 3543 Old Today, 07:53 AM
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I have recorded similar results with my gear.
To be sure, gamma is an important component in accurate image rendition, but it is only one of several.

Black/white level accuracy is number one as taught by ISF instructors.
Grey Scale, gamma and cm follow.

If your theater has any reflective room surfaces of any color and measuring results from the screen will skew results.

Keeping the delta e of the gray scale low is a primary concern after b/w levels are set.

I have found that setting the pj's "gamma control" to 2.6, while giving us a better? gamma number, creates more issues than it is worth. For one, in a theater without perfect light control, the image will be too dark at 10 ire or less and loss of black level depth will occur.

My thoughts on the gamma and for that matter cm, run to the minimalistic. You can chase numbers until you quietly or perhaps not so quietly go mad. Or... set it up with the primary objective of deriving as good of an image your room and system allow for, then enjoy it.

Doug k
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post #3539 of 3543 Old Today, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post
I have recorded similar results with my gear.
To be sure, gamma is an important component in accurate image rendition, but it is only one of several.

Black/white level accuracy is number one as taught by ISF instructors.
Grey Scale, gamma and cm follow.

If your theater has any reflective room surfaces of any color and measuring results from the screen will skew results.

Keeping the delta e of the gray scale low is a primary concern after b/w levels are set.

I have found that setting the pj's "gamma control" to 2.6, while giving us a better? gamma number, creates more issues than it is worth. For one, in a theater without perfect light control, the image will be too dark at 10 ire or less and loss of black level depth will occur.

My thoughts on the gamma and for that matter cm, run to the minimalistic. You can chase numbers until you quietly or perhaps not so quietly go mad. Or... set it up with the primary objective of deriving as good of an image your room and system allow for, then enjoy it.

Doug k

Thanks for the feedback Doug. I'm new to video calibration so my experience is very limited and I was basing a lot of my expectations on what others have written in the past (specifically what zombie10k wrote here:


Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread


I guess I should consider that his calibrations are done in a bat cave but I was thinking my results were pretty far off since I didn't have any other reference points. My room is a basement living space with controlled lighting but light tan walls and a white ceiling. My meter was about 3 ft from the screen to avoid it's own reflection so I was wondering if it's better to move it closer with a slight upward tilt?
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post #3540 of 3543 Old Today, 11:09 AM
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The white ceiling and tan walls will indeed affect measurments.

Tilting the probe and also checking various areas of the screen will deliver differing results partly due to a small amount of color uniformity issues that very nearly every projector has and even the tan walls in your theater.

In other words, if you set up your meter on your screen and I set up my gear right next to it, in a perfect world we would get the same results. As you know, it is not perfect.

The GOOD news is that our eyeballs might well not see ANY difference that is reported by our gear. The gear is way better than our eyes.
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