Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 3445 Old 12-03-2012, 01:29 AM
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How do I:

1. Factory Reset my HW50?
2. Enter the service menu?
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post #632 of 3445 Old 12-03-2012, 11:03 AM
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Has anyone received their free lamp yet? Sony support said they would ship Mid-November. Nothing here yet?

Anyone?
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post #633 of 3445 Old 12-03-2012, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tehotaone View Post

Has anyone received their free lamp yet? Sony support said they would ship Mid-November. Nothing here yet?
Anyone?

yes, came around 2 weeks after the projector was received, shipped directly from Sony.
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post #634 of 3445 Old 12-04-2012, 07:45 AM
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Yes, I got mine (actually they shipped two) about two weeks after I received my projector in October.
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post #635 of 3445 Old 12-04-2012, 02:07 PM
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Weird. Why are some of us getting them & others not? I got my 3D transmitter from Sony. The entire release of this projector seems rather unprofessionally/poorly handled.
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post #636 of 3445 Old 12-05-2012, 03:59 PM
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Is it possible to control the max and minimum opening of the iris when in dynamic mode? Not just the (3?) selectable options but in the service menu possibly? I like to be able to set my JVC HD350's iris exactly and feel this would be something I'd miss particularly as I think the 50ES would be too bright for my taste even in low lamp and long throw setup. However I would want to reduce the black level by the same amount, so not thinking of just lowering the main contrast.

Also does anyone have an idea of what the ANSI contrast is of the 50ES? I can't watch DLP due to headaches, but I do like the depth that the higher ANSI contrast provides.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #637 of 3445 Old 12-05-2012, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Is it possible to control the max and minimum opening of the iris when in dynamic mode? Not just the (3?) selectable options but in the service menu possibly? I like to be able to set my JVC HD350's iris exactly and feel this would be something I'd miss particularly as I think the 50ES would be too bright for my taste even in low lamp and long throw setup. However I would want to reduce the black level by the same amount, so not thinking of just lowering the main contrast.
Also does anyone have an idea of what the ANSI contrast is of the 50ES? I can't watch DLP due to headaches, but I do like the depth that the higher ANSI contrast provides.

I think this is possible via the service menu, but not sure.

Right now, I'm running the projector in low lamp with the iris completely closed (0 on a 0-100 scale). On a HCHP screen, it's still bright enough for me. Sometimes I'll take the iris up to 20.

I'm beginning to think I don't care about dynamic iris at all, when the lamp is new anyway. If I'm happy w/ the iris closed all the way, then all a DI would do is make bright images brighter... which I don't really care about given I'm already happy with the brightness.

As the lamp ages, however, I could see the utility of DI since I probably won't want the iris clamped down all the way... in which case DI would give darker darks on dark scenes by dynamically clamping the iris down.

Probably shoulda just gotten a JVC, but I'm scared of poor motion resolution. The motion on the Sony seems great, and by that I mean it doesn't bother me like people's faces moving on the screen bothered me with the Epson 8350 (everything just blurred).
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post #638 of 3445 Old 12-05-2012, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Is it possible to control the max and minimum opening of the iris when in dynamic mode? Not just the (3?) selectable options but in the service menu possibly? I like to be able to set my JVC HD350's iris exactly and feel this would be something I'd miss particularly as I think the 50ES would be too bright for my taste even in low lamp and long throw setup. However I would want to reduce the black level by the same amount, so not thinking of just lowering the main contrast.
Also does anyone have an idea of what the ANSI contrast is of the 50ES? I can't watch DLP due to headaches, but I do like the depth that the higher ANSI contrast provides.

I could be wrong but I thought I saw some posts about tweaking the iris settings in the VW95 so you may want to search there as well.
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post #639 of 3445 Old 12-05-2012, 08:15 PM
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Yes, a few of us have done write-ups on how to change the iris settings. In the 95 thread and in the HW30 thread.

I'm running IrisOpenReg at 600 and IrisCloseReg at 175 right now (though I move things around), from stock settings of around 640 / 340 on my 95.

Any q's, ask away!
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post #640 of 3445 Old 12-05-2012, 09:14 PM
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Now that the 50ES has been out for a minute, what settings are you guys using. This is my first projector and I need all the help I can get.

Thanks in a advance!

Mike
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post #641 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Dave View Post

Yes, a few of us have done write-ups on how to change the iris settings. In the 95 thread and in the HW30 thread.
I'm running IrisOpenReg at 600 and IrisCloseReg at 175 right now (though I move things around), from stock settings of around 640 / 340 on my 95.
Any q's, ask away!

Does this alter the amount that the iris is open, or just the brightness level at which it opens (and closes)? From what Saranginman says the manual control does exactly the same as the JVC, but of course you don't have the same native on/off contrast. What concerns me is that when Cine4home measured the native on/off contrast of the 50ES in manual mode, it is lower than my current HD350 when they measured that. I don't want worse blacks than I have now, so I figured I'd have to use the Dynamic iris to achieve this. I'm not bothered by the motion on my HD350, so any of the newer JVCs would be fine from that POV and of course the Sony. I'm hoping to have a demo next week between the 50ES and the X35/55 as I know figures don't tell us everything, it's what we see on screen that matters.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #642 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 01:56 AM
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post #643 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkwillia View Post

Now that the 50ES has been out for a minute, what settings are you guys using. This is my first projector and I need all the help I can get.
Thanks in a advance!
Mike

Copying someone's settings, especially on a projector, doesn't do much to increase the accuracy of the image. Luckily out of the box this Sony isn't terrible. The most you can do by eye is set the brightness and contrast settings by using one of the various free calibration discs out there. For calibrating color you're going to need some sort of meter. Color is one of those area's where copying someones settings doesn't usually help and can sometimes make things worse. You really need a meter if you want to further the accuracy of the image.

If you're interested I always recommend people read through this thread. It's quite long but worth the read if you're serious about getting into calibration.:

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
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post #644 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

Copying someone's settings, especially on a projector, doesn't do much to increase the accuracy of the image. Luckily out of the box this Sony isn't terrible. The most you can do by eye is set the brightness and contrast settings by using one of the various free calibration discs out there. For calibrating color you're going to need some sort of meter. Color is one of those area's where copying someones settings doesn't usually help and can sometimes make things worse. You really need a meter if you want to further the accuracy of the image.
If you're interested I always recommend people read through this thread. It's quite long but worth the read if you're serious about getting into calibration.:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

So many doesn't understand that someone else setting will not help
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post #645 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 07:55 AM
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So many doesn't understand that someone else setting will not help

+1

Not only that, but there are service menu settings that are tweaked at the factory to give a very decent "out of the box" experience, per projector, even though all the user settings are at "0". There are variations between units that we don't even know about that are tidied up. You're probably closer to a correct picture out of the box rather than copying settings.

A good light meter and software is your best friend if you really want to do any better with the picture.
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post #646 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 08:07 AM
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I just upgraded my sensor to an i1 display Pro enhanced (AKA 'D3') and the autocal software to use with my Lumagen VP. After the initial setting of the brightness, contrast and 100% setting for greyscale, you just press a button and 45 minutes later a 21 point greyscale/gamma and a 125 point CMS is done for me. cool.gif I haven't bothered doing my projector as it's supposed to be going soon, but even my 5 year old TV has taken on a whole new picture due to this calibration. If I get the Sony 50ES (or JVC X35/55) it will be set this way. The only information I might ask of other users is which colour space to select to give slightly oversaturated gamut so the Lumagen can pull it in (it can't 'add' saturation so an under saturated gamut can't be corrected).

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #647 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 09:33 AM
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There's also differences in the screen used as well as differences in ceiling/wall colors affecting light reflectivity which make it unreliable merely to copy someone else's settings.
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post #648 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 10:12 AM
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True, but even in the same room variances in the lamp, the panel(s) and the electronics mean that you'd likely get different readings if they were all set the same and without a meter who would know which one is correct. Always strikes me as funny when someone spends a fortune on a new display, then nobbles it by copying someone's settings rather than just doing a good basic set up using something like the AVS HD709 disc, even if they don't go for a full calibration.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #649 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 11:51 AM
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Just worked out that the Sony projectors produce an image that is too big for my screen for my throw: I have the projector at the back of the room and currently my JVC HD350 is at minimum zoom when using my A lens to fill my 112" wide 2.35:1 screen. The Sony would nearly fill the screen without the lens so is a non starter as I can't move the projector further forward (and the screen can't get much bigger even if I wanted too) and I don't want to go back to zooming unless it's a 4K/Eshift projector. At least it makes my choice easier I suppose, but I'd better not demo the Sony now incase I prefer it. rolleyes.gif

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #650 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 12:16 PM
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Has anyone heard anything concrete about the 3d emitter buzz sound. Has Sony addressed it? Is there a clean serial number to go by? Is it just hit and miss by unit? I just can't seem to find for sure whether it has been corrected or not?

I'm Jeff and I approve this message.
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post #651 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 03:14 PM
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I'd also like an answer on the buzzing. Mine is pretty bad and I'm worried about placement and strength of an external emitter. I thought Mike from AVS said he would post something once he heard an official statement from Sony so I'm guessing that hasn't happened yet.
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post #652 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

I finally demo'd a Sony HW50...Motion Flow was quite acceptable on Low. On high, I noticed a lot of judder... it was very annoying... every few seconds you'd see the image kind of 'miss' a few frames or something similar to that. I could never watch any content like this. I am not sure if the 'Film' setting had anything to do with this. I think regardless I was only able to reproduce it on Motion (FI) set to high...

I know this is a month past when you posted this but just in case this was still a thought in your mind I revisited the Alamo store where you saw this issue as I am still considering the Sony and determined that the issue you saw was because the Sony BD player didn't have 24fps turned on. I also noticed the flickering and stuttering when I visited the store the first time and I saw it right away as well and when I made the update to the BD player the flickering and stuttering went away. I also took Iron Man 2 in with me and viewed the Monaco race scene which is where I've seen break up on my JVC with FI turned on. Especially with the pan where Ivan walks by the chain linked fence. Even with FI on high there was only mild breakup to the image.
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post #653 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Does this alter the amount that the iris is open, or just the brightness level at which it opens (and closes)? From what Saranginman says the manual control does exactly the same as the JVC, but of course you don't have the same native on/off contrast. What concerns me is that when Cine4home measured the native on/off contrast of the 50ES in manual mode, it is lower than my current HD350 when they measured that. I don't want worse blacks than I have now, so I figured I'd have to use the Dynamic iris to achieve this. I'm not bothered by the motion on my HD350, so any of the newer JVCs would be fine from that POV and of course the Sony. I'm hoping to have a demo next week between the 50ES and the X35/55 as I know figures don't tell us everything, it's what we see on screen that matters.

Changing the Iris Open Reg and Iris Close Reg settings will change the minimum and maximum iris size that will be available using the Auto Iris 1 setting. The algorithm will calculate the required iris opening within those values based upon the content of the scene. Auto Iris 2 uses a smaller subset within this range.

I have (slightly) reduced my maximum opening, which diminishes my maximum brightness by a small amount, but I have notably reduced my minimum opening, so the iris does more "work", and the scene will get quite dark when required.

You'll have to play with these two settings somewhat to determine how aggressive you would like the iris to be, and what sort of movement you're comfortable with. If you go to a wider iris range, it helps to set the iris speed to "slow" so that the pumping is less visible.

I'd recommend starting by lowering the IrisOpenReg a very small amount (no more than 50 points), and lowering the IrisCloseReg by maybe 100 points, and then tweaking from there.
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post #654 of 3445 Old 12-06-2012, 08:07 PM
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Thanks FatDave, but I'm not able to buy the VW50ES (or 95ES) as I found out they won't fit in my room throw wise: The image would be too big from my long throw distance, so I've had to discount them. I can only mount the projector at the back of my room so no chance to bring it forward.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #655 of 3445 Old 12-07-2012, 08:08 PM
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The HW50 has only one USER preset. I have already calibrated my HW50 in 2D and I used the USER profile. But now I want to calibrate for 3D too, how do I do that since USER is not available anymore?
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post #656 of 3445 Old 12-07-2012, 08:28 PM
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when it's in 3D, change it to user mode again. It should be a separate user mode for 3D. The only thing you have to change is the color temp setting since it has to be different from the 2D mode.

Use 'custom 3' for 2D mode, it should be closest to D65 and possibly 'custom 2' or '4' for the 3D mode baseline. You have to run the 30 and 80 IRE patterns in 2D - > 3D mode with the meter behind the glasses for best results.
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post #657 of 3445 Old 12-07-2012, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

when it's in 3D, change it to user mode again. It should be a separate user mode for 3D. The only thing you have to change is the color temp setting since it has to be different from the 2D mode.
Use 'custom 3' for 2D mode, it should be closest to D65 and possibly 'custom 2' or '4' for the 3D mode baseline. You have to run the 30 and 80 IRE patterns in 2D - > 3D mode with the meter behind the glasses for best results.

thxz Zombie. But how do I enter the 3D mode when doing the calibration?? The AVSHD calibration disc does not enable the 3D mode on the HW50 right?
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post #658 of 3445 Old 12-07-2012, 11:00 PM
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in the 3D menu on the Sony you can enable the 2D to 3D conversion.

http://www.docs.sony.com/release/VPLHW50ES.pdf

Page 133


3D Format: You can select this item by pressing b on the remote
control when setting “2D-3D Display Sel.” to “3D.” Set the 3D
system when the input HDMI signals do not include 3D
information.

Simulated 3D: Converts 2D video images to 3D video images.
The setting can be made only for input the HD signals.

• The simulated 3D feature may have limited effect, depending
on the video source.
• There are differences in perception of 3D video images among
individuals.
Side-by-Side: Displays 3D images as received (before conversion
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post #659 of 3445 Old 12-07-2012, 11:04 PM
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thanks Jason.

And do I put the lens of the right (of left) of the glasses as close as possible to my i1 Display Pro III meter?
And do I put ON the glasses so it shutters or not?
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post #660 of 3445 Old 12-08-2012, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

thanks Jason.

And do I put the lens of the right (of left) of the glasses as close as possible to my i1 Display Pro III meter?
And do I put ON the glasses so it shutters or not?

I use the left eye, but it shouldn't matter as long as the meter's 'eye' can see clearly through the lens. I use a small tripod to hold the Display Pro 3 and then some velcro to hold the glasses around the meter.

definitely make sure the glasses are activated before calibrating, the Sony glasses tint changes considerable between off/on.
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