Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 3475 Old 12-16-2012, 10:59 AM
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Looking to upgrade from a Sanyo Z5. Not looking for a big screen size, say 92' from about 10.5 feet. Would this be too bright in eco mode???
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post #722 of 3475 Old 12-16-2012, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebits View Post

Enabling Auto Iris affects Gamma and Grayscale. Especially the Gamma at high IREs will be apparently changed in your Sony PJs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

The dynamic iris will adjust the gamma at the low end as well in order to help compensate for the darkening effect of closing the iris on the lighter parts of the image. It will try to use the maximum (native) contrast of the projector in a scene by actively turning up the contrast so that the brightest part of the image will remain as bright as it should be without the iris. It helps if the projector has a good native contrast to start with (as the Sony has) which will mean that the dynamic iris doesn't have to work so hard, so there are less side effects.

By what measurement methods have you established that there is a change in gamma on this projector with dynamic iris engaged?
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post #723 of 3475 Old 12-16-2012, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Like Kelvin says, the dynamic iris affects both the grayscale AND gamma a lot. You can test this by putting up a 80ire pattern and measure with dynamic and manual iris (eg. with ChromaPure). Personally I want to avoid the dynamic iris so atm I m trying to figure out what the best settings are while still getting 48 cd/m2.

I don't have this model, but on the 95 I can tell you my grayscale balance does not change with dynamic iris versus iris off (or manual iris). I don't know why this would be the case on the 50 - no iris should cause a colour shift.
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post #724 of 3475 Old 12-16-2012, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Dave View Post

By what measurement methods have you established that there is a change in gamma on this projector with dynamic iris engaged?

By studying how these devices work:

It isn't just a question of a little flap that opens or closes according to picture level. There is other processing going on with the signal as well. Otherwise when the scene is dark anything that is brighter than black will look dim, so the processing attempts to maintain the same brightness for those elements of the picture.

Imagine this process in action:

You have a dark black sky, perhaps a camp fire scene, so the ground area may be very dark, so almost black, but you have the flames of the fire and the reflection of the fire on the faces of the people around it. If the iris just closes down because it's a dark scene, then the flames and the faces will get darker too, making them look dull. The near black ground will blend to black too. The electronics increases the contrast (within limits of course) to try to make the flames/faces look as bright as before the iris closes down. Try measuring the gamma of a display (with the iris fixed) and at different contrast settings and guess what? The gamma will measure differently.

Now this won't work for a star scene because the stars might be at peak white and the sky at black, so closing the iris will just lower the black, and also lower the brightness of the stars (the contrast can't go any higher as they are already at peak white). A scene like this is already using the maximum native contrast of the display, so no amount of iris and contrast changing can increase the contrast of this scene. The better iris systems will be able to detect this and won't try to 'fix' what it can't so you won't get pumping of brightness for no gain in contrast.

FWIW I pulled apart my first projector a Panasonic AE1000 and made lots of measurements of the effect the iris had (I only had an i1LT back then but it was still pretty good for measuring gamma if not so accurate for greyscale or colour gamut). I was troubled by the poor dark scene performance and wondered if there was any way to improve it by tweaking and better understanding how it worked. I made many measurements with the dynamic iris enganged, but physically unplugged to see how the image was manipulated. Eventually I moved away from a sequence of dynamic iris AExxxx models as I realised that my preference is for better native contrast that DILA/LCOS can provide, but it was an interesting voyage of discovery.

While the above shouldn't cause a colour shift, in a dark scene the contrast might change such that a 60% part of the image gets boosted to 80% (and the iris closes down to bring the brightness optically back to 60%). It's not unusual for there to be a difference in greyscale between 60% and 80% points especially if the display only has a two point greyscale correction.

I should add that I haven't done these measurements on the 50ES, but the principle is likely to be similar (it's more the algorithms used to decide the iris and contrast boost that differentiates between different projectors as well as the native contrast available). For scenes that don't contain peak whites, then the iris can close down some, the contrast can go up to make the non black areas brighter (up to just under the point of clipping) meaning that the black level goes down, but hopefully the other parts of the image are maintained at the same brightness they should be.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #725 of 3475 Old 12-16-2012, 06:07 PM
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Hey guys,

I have read almost all of the posts here and i am trying to find out how this projector does in 2D and 3D in an appartment with normal\moderate lighting( few kitchen lights, 3 windows floor to ceiling with blinds, desk lamp ) would fair during the day. I am not concerned with night as i can lower all ambient light to almost zero.

If i missed a post about this i apologize but any info on this would be helpful


I was able to see the Epson 5020UB in action in a best buy in both shut out light, and moderate to heavy lighting and i feel it did VERY good... i just dont know how the HW50 is as they did not have it setup.


If anyone can let me know about this please do. Calibrated lumens for the 5020 were in the upper 600s ( dispite 2400 lumen rating on the projector ) while the HW50 hit about 1000 calibrated best mode.

Thanks all!
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post #726 of 3475 Old 12-16-2012, 10:41 PM
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It depends. The Sony has higher calibrated output, the Epson has higher watchable output. How big a screen are you going with? Can you go with a nice dark gray, like Glidden "Veil"? With a lot of ambient light the calibrated output starts meaning less than the high watchable output. The ambient light is going to throw your calibration off anyway... On the other hand, if you're sitting very close to the screen the better pixel fill of the Sony could become critical. If running HDMI cable to the PJ's best location is impossible, you may need the Epson's wireless capability.

So you see, more information is needed. How big a screen, how close is seating distance, how close will the projector be mounted, what screen will you be using, can you run the wiring to the projector? What will you be watching, movies, sports, HDTV?
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post #727 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grazza B View Post

Really? That's interesting. I think zombie had seen the same in 3D as me re. the motionflow. In 2D low and high are different with Low subtle and High too much, but whatever I select in 3D it goes super smooth, with none of the subtlety of the 2D low mode. Weird!

I have the same experience as you & zombie. Low/High in 3D appear the same for me. There's def a difference in Low vs. High in 2D for me. Perhaps jagdeep just has it backwards or it was a typo?
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post #728 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

FWIW I pulled apart my first projector a Panasonic AE1000 and made lots of measurements of the effect the iris had (I only had an i1LT back then but it was still pretty good for measuring gamma if not so accurate for greyscale or colour gamut). I was troubled by the poor dark scene performance and wondered if there was any way to improve it by tweaking and better understanding how it worked. I made many measurements with the dynamic iris enganged, but physically unplugged to see how the image was manipulated. Eventually I moved away from a sequence of dynamic iris AExxxx models as I realised that my preference is for better native contrast that DILA/LCOS can provide, but it was an interesting voyage of discovery.

That's awesome that you did that smile.gif

I guess that's why DI is disabled by default in 'Game' mode? The image processing must add lag time; if it didn't, I don't see why it would be disengaged by default. I forget if zombie tested lag time with/without DI.

I actually stopped using DI as I don't see the point of interscene dynamic range... I feel like most of us care about intrascene dynamic range. With a HCHP screen (110"), I started with the manual iris fully closed, then slowly opened it up little by little as I watched content based on my need/desire for more light. This way I keep it at the minimum brightness I find acceptable/pleasing, which ensures good black levels. From that point, I find I don't care about the iris opening to blast light on my screen in bright scenes. Perhaps things will change as the lamp ages...

For me, this method has afforded me images with a great deal of pop/contrast (especially w/ Darbee at 40 & RC at minimum). Mostly b/c of my HCHP screen & black curtains though. Switch to my 1.1 gain screen, & the contrast goes out the window.
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post #729 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jampot View Post

Looking to upgrade from a Sanyo Z5. Not looking for a big screen size, say 92' from about 10.5 feet. Would this be too bright in eco mode???
No, you can always turn down the brightness by lowering the manual iris on a scale of 1-100. That won t be nececarry though because I assume your goal is 15fL and you won t make that with the iris on 1 on a 92' size.
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post #730 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Dave View Post

I don't have this model, but on the 95 I can tell you my grayscale balance does not change with dynamic iris versus iris off (or manual iris). I don't know why this would be the case on the 50 - no iris should cause a colour shift.
I don t know with which equipment you measure but I have both the HW50 and VW95 running in my house and both the grayscale and gamma change (quite dramatically) with the iris ON and OFF. You can see this easily with your calibration software with 30 and 80ire patterns.
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post #731 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

I have the same experience as you & zombie. Low/High in 3D appear the same for me. There's def a difference in Low vs. High in 2D for me. Perhaps jagdeep just has it backwards or it was a typo?
+1 for this: FI in 3D is the same in both the LOW and HIGH setting. On 2D content there s a substantial difference.
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post #732 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

I started with the manual iris fully closed, then slowly opened it up little by little as I watched content based on my need/desire for more light. This way I keep it at the minimum brightness I find acceptable/pleasing, which ensures good black levels. From that point, I find I don't care about the iris opening to blast light on my screen in bright scenes. Perhaps things will change as the lamp ages
Agree with you on this one. Only thing I do different is that I aim for 15fL so my iris is @64 now. With a calibrated D65 picture this gives my good black levels and enough pop in bright scenes because of the 15fL. I might tune down to 12fL because I have a total darkened bat cave and 12fL might be enough for that in 2D. If only we could get 12fL in 3D in the future someday eek.gifeek.gif
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post #733 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 01:20 AM
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Got a Colormunki Display to calibrate my HW50 last week.

Everything is nice but....

Measured 3D brightness is LOW!!!

2D with lamp @ low, I got 15+ fL which is nice and proper (between 12~16 fL).

100 inch 1.0 gain white screen. Close to max wide angle.
3D User mode with Gamma correction = Cumstom 5 (prioritize brightness according to Sony), Color Temp = 9 (more brightness according to Sony).
Glasses Brightness setting is 3 (the second brightest).

Without the Glasses (I used PS3 glasses and the Sony Glasses is about the same), measured 30+ fL.

With the Glasses, before calibration there is 3.0+ fL. After caliabration there is ~2.7 fL.

Before the meaurement, I was (and still am) satisfied with the 3D brightess. I think it's brighter than local cinema.
Now I know it's far from 4.5fL, the suggested brightness for 3D, so just cannot help imagining how nice it would be if I could have 4.5fL....

Changing the screen is not an option because the new screen is a huge investment along with the HW50. It's a very good improvment for 2D compared to my previous cheap grey screen.
Scratching my head... Ignorance is indeed bliss!
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post #734 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dupin67 View Post

Got a Colormunki Display to calibrate my HW50 last week.
Everything is nice but....
Measured 3D brightness is LOW!!!
2D with lamp @ low, I got 15+ fL which is nice and proper (between 12~16 fL).
100 inch 1.0 gain white screen. Close to max wide angle.
3D User mode with Gamma correction = Cumstom 5 (prioritize brightness according to Sony), Color Temp = 9 (more brightness according to Sony).
Glasses Brightness setting is 3 (the second brightest).
Without the Glasses (I used PS3 glasses and the Sony Glasses is about the same), measured 30+ fL.
With the Glasses, before calibration there is 3.0+ fL. After caliabration there is ~2.7 fL.
Before the meaurement, I was (and still am) satisfied with the 3D brightess. I think it's brighter than local cinema.
Now I know it's far from 4.5fL, the suggested brightness for 3D, so just cannot help imagining how nice it would be if I could have 4.5fL....
Changing the screen is not an option because the new screen is a huge investment along with the HW50. It's a very good improvment for 2D compared to my previous cheap grey screen.
Scratching my head... Ignorance is indeed bliss!
Did you measure with the iris OFF and are you running the iris in manual mode in your calibrated 2D setting?

3D brightness is and will still be a problem for some years. The actual technique behind the active system has to change in order to get 15fL in 3D (which I cannot imagine what a freakin 3D pop THAT will give us!).
I wachted Finding Nemo 3D last weekend and though the 3D was pretty good the 2D was also quite three dimensional because of the much better brightness.
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post #735 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Did you measure with the iris OFF and are you running the iris in manual mode in your calibrated 2D setting?
3D brightness is and will still be a problem for some years. The actual technique behind the active system has to change in order to get 15fL in 3D (which I cannot imagine what a freakin 3D pop THAT will give us!).
I wachted Finding Nemo 3D last weekend and though the 3D was pretty good the 2D was also quite three dimensional because of the much better brightness.

Yes, the iris is OFF for all measurements.

What bothers me is the less than 10% transit rate (or how should we call that?).
I had hoped for a 15% rate, which will boost my poor 2.7fL to ~4fL.
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post #736 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dupin67 View Post

Got a Colormunki Display to calibrate my HW50 last week.
Everything is nice but....
Measured 3D brightness is LOW!!!
2D with lamp @ low, I got 15+ fL which is nice and proper (between 12~16 fL).
100 inch 1.0 gain white screen. Close to max wide angle.
3D User mode with Gamma correction = Cumstom 5 (prioritize brightness according to Sony), Color Temp = 9 (more brightness according to Sony).
Glasses Brightness setting is 3 (the second brightest).
Without the Glasses (I used PS3 glasses and the Sony Glasses is about the same), measured 30+ fL.
With the Glasses, before calibration there is 3.0+ fL. After caliabration there is ~2.7 fL.
Before the meaurement, I was (and still am) satisfied with the 3D brightess. I think it's brighter than local cinema.
Now I know it's far from 4.5fL, the suggested brightness for 3D, so just cannot help imagining how nice it would be if I could have 4.5fL....
Changing the screen is not an option because the new screen is a huge investment along with the HW50. It's a very good improvment for 2D compared to my previous cheap grey screen.
Scratching my head... Ignorance is indeed bliss!

So sony hw50es is bright for 3d or not?
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post #737 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 03:55 AM
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On my old 65 Panasonic VT plasma Blu Ray didn't really look any different than 1080P download. I have to say now that I see it on a 110 inch screen with my HW50, there is a difference not only between even the best 1080P download (VUDU HDX) and blu ray, but I can now see a bigger difference between well recorded blu ray movies and those that aren't. Really impressed with this projector. Some of the animated stuff such as Brave, which I watched with the kids last night, is simply stunning.
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post #738 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

So sony hw50es is bright for 3d or not?
it is ok but if you really want impressive 3D brightness (and complete flickerfree picture) you have got to build yourself a dual-projector setup but that s another subject and does not belong in this thread.
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post #739 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

it is ok but if you really want impressive 3D brightness (and complete flickerfree picture) you have got to build yourself a dual-projector setup but that s another subject and does not belong in this thread.

or a big bright high powered screen. smile.gif

the HW50 cranks out a respectable 1000 lumens in 3D mode. I think some new owners don't realize how much the shutter glasses knock down the light. It's ~80% in some cases depending on the glasses/projector.
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post #740 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Kirnak View Post

It depends. The Sony has higher calibrated output, the Epson has higher watchable output. How big a screen are you going with? Can you go with a nice dark gray, like Glidden "Veil"? With a lot of ambient light the calibrated output starts meaning less than the high watchable output. The ambient light is going to throw your calibration off anyway... On the other hand, if you're sitting very close to the screen the better pixel fill of the Sony could become critical. If running HDMI cable to the PJ's best location is impossible, you may need the Epson's wireless capability.
So you see, more information is needed. How big a screen, how close is seating distance, how close will the projector be mounted, what screen will you be using, can you run the wiring to the projector? What will you be watching, movies, sports, HDTV?

Screen unknown ( not sure what projector between the 5020 Epson and the HW50 Sony )
Throw distance ~ 11 - 11.5 feet
View distance ~ 8 - 10 feet
Screen size ~ 100 - 110"
I CAN run a HDMI cable, but the Wireless HD box from Epson would not be terrible ( the general manager who showed me the 5020 was telling me on 3D at about 20 feet, there was distortion and sync issues with 3D but i am unsure if that was a distance issue or the box's inability to handle 3d content in general )
Mainly for HDTV \ Movies maybe 10% sports but not a big deal on that one either way

If you need more info let me know!
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post #741 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

I tested it with the Monster Vision glasses, which I like considerably more than the Sony glasses. Probably because it's got bigger lenses, is lighter, & to me the color just looks better (so, yeah, I should really calibrate my 3D mode). Don't really think it had less ghosting though. But that's all with default settings; I haven't tried programming the duty cycle, etc., yet.

Are you using both the Sony and Monster glasses together? I believe you got the external 3D emitter from Sony for the buzzing issue. Is there a way to use both of these glasses together with direct connections (i.e. not having to tape the RF to IR emitter of the MV3D to the external Sony emitter? I've read somewhere (perhaps in the MV3D thread) about a custom patch cable that could be used but I don't have any details on the configuration. I'm trying to get rid of my buzzing and be able to use the Sony glasses (for guests) together with the MV3D or the 2nd generation Bit Cauldron glasses (3DNOW/3DVIP RF). I don't have either the external emitter or the RF glasses yet as I'm trying to determine the best course of action with Sony when I call them about the buzzing. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated! Thanks.
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post #742 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 09:42 AM
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Also, for anyone with longer HDMI runs, I can confirm the Redmere 60ft slim cables (Monoprice PID 9173) work well between an Integra DHC-80.3 and the Sony HW50ES. I tested them briefly with both BDMV folder and BluRay iso before installation with no issues to report. I still need to check my Darbee Darblet with this length cable and will report back. I've seen mixed reviews in the Darbee thread on runs over 35 ft.
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post #743 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

or a big bright high powered screen. smile.gif
the HW50 cranks out a respectable 1000 lumens in 3D mode. I think some new owners don't realize how much the shutter glasses knock down the light. It's ~80% in some cases depending on the glasses/projector.
Can you recommend a screen for me? (I have a bat cave and want to keep good blacks in 2D).

The HW50 does not produce 1000 lumens in 3D calibrated mode of course.
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post #744 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

Also, for anyone with longer HDMI runs, I can confirm the Redmere 60ft slim cables (Monoprice PID 9173) work well between an Integra DHC-80.3 and the Sony HW50ES. I tested them briefly with both BDMV folder and BluRay iso before installation with no issues to report. I still need to check my Darbee Darblet with this length cable and will report back. I've seen mixed reviews in the Darbee thread on runs over 35 ft.

I can confirm this as well. I have two 40ft runs (one primary and one back-up in case of failure) of Monoprice redmere HDMI cable from my pre/pro to my HW50 and no problems at all. I just completed my HT build and ran them in the ceiling.
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post #745 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

I can confirm this as well. I have two 40ft runs (one primary and one back-up in case of failure) of Monoprice redmere HDMI cable from my pre/pro to my HW50 and no problems at all. I just completed my HT build and ran them in the ceiling.

I ran two as well. Backup was one consideration but I was also thinking it might be nice to be able to run directly to the HW50ES in case I upgrade to a 3D based media player that doesn't play nice with my Integra.
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post #746 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Can you recommend a screen for me? (I have a bat cave and want to keep good blacks in 2D).
The HW50 does not produce 1000 lumens in 3D calibrated mode of course.

I am confused, does it produce or not? zombie says it does
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post #747 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by tothjm View Post

Screen unknown ( not sure what projector between the 5020 Epson and the HW50 Sony )
Throw distance ~ 11 - 11.5 feet
View distance ~ 8 - 10 feet
Screen size ~ 100 - 110"
I CAN run a HDMI cable, but the Wireless HD box from Epson would not be terrible ( the general manager who showed me the 5020 was telling me on 3D at about 20 feet, there was distortion and sync issues with 3D but i am unsure if that was a distance issue or the box's inability to handle 3d content in general )
Mainly for HDTV \ Movies maybe 10% sports but not a big deal on that one either way
If you need more info let me know!

If you go with a 110" screen at 8' viewing distance you're looking at 1:1 viewing distance to screen width ratio. At that distance you could start seeing "Screen Door Effect" with the Epson, I'd recommend the HW50 due to the better pixel fill. Mind you, I've not seen the Sony, I'm going by what I've read.

BTW, I've not heard of said problems with wireless on the 5020...
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post #748 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirnak View Post

If you go with a 110" screen at 8' viewing distance you're looking at 1:1 viewing distance to screen width ratio. At that distance you could start seeing "Screen Door Effect" with the Epson, I'd recommend the HW50 due to the better pixel fill. Mind you, I've not seen the Sony, I'm going by what I've read.
BTW, I've not heard of said problems with wireless on the 5020...

It may end up being more of a 96-100in screen, sorry i miscalculated that.... With the new figure you would still suggest the HW50 ?


also just scared to put the HW50 in my room environment during the daytime with the moderate amount of inside and outside ambient light... i plan to go see this projector this weekend as i think i have heard a nearby best buy will have it setup for viewing. I think seeing it in different lighting situations will better answer my questions on if this will or will not work frown.gif
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post #749 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 12:19 PM
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Just received my ISCO anamorphic lens.. Friggin awesome! Got rid of the box. A little pincushion - noticeble on PJ menu rather than during any movie playback. Have to say i much prefer the image with a lens in place than zooming out. Whilst the latter is a bonus if you have a lens memory function, the lens simply means less zoom and a more pleasing cinematic experience.

Also discovered the 'blanking' feature. Excellent! Much better than the masking i had on my JVC 350 which would only mask by 2.5 or 5%. This PJ allows masking from either top,bottom, left or right from a scale of 1 - 100! Brilliant! I've managed to clear up the bowing within 5 minutes of putting the lens in front of the PJ. The Isco II is also a dead perfect fit for the Sony's lens. Perfect infact. I know the ISCO II is the ISCO III's poor cousin but to be honest it more than serves its purpose. Less zoom, tider image and I'm now on a full and neat 4mtrs wide! Also pleased to see that the RC feature also works a treat with the lens in place.

Did alot of tweaking last night and realised that the PJ's RC feature is far more blu-ray player friendly than it is HTPC friendly. I've saved a library of movies on my HTPC (ISO files) but find that the RC and/or Darbee performs better with my bluray player. Of course, better video cards etc could make the difference.

Watched a few sequences out of the 'X men The Last Stand' bluray. Slightly grainy in parts but you can really see the detail coming through with RC and Darbee. I'm preferring the RC off with Darbee on with some movies whilst others are great with RC alone. I'm finding that heavilly cgi'd movies are better with Darbee alone whilst animations benefit from RC.

For earlier posters commenting on ghosting, i found that by adjusting the depth under 3d settings you could lose the ghosting totally. -2 was perfect for Sammys adventures.

Enjoy your Pj's chaps.. I'm off to the theatre for some more fun.
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post #750 of 3475 Old 12-17-2012, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mac_hs10 View Post

Do these come with any 3d glasses? How do the 50es compare to the 95es? I don't know if its worth it to buy the 95es now.

It comes with a pair of glasses.

The 95 will offer motorized Lense, Better contrasts and a sharper lense and probably better FI in 3d mode since the 50 doesnt seem to have a proper low setting.

50 will offer you more brightness, slightly better crosstalk (read conflicting reports on this but I have to go with Zombies impressions.

Mark H mentioned he would probably go for the 95 if brightness wasnt a concern in a previouse post, Art from Projectorreviews said he perfered the 95.

I'm sure you can find plenty saying they would go the 50 route. so in the end i think it comes down if you want better blacks or more brightness. If you can live without a motorized lense. ect. smile.gif
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