Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 52 - AVS Forum
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post #1531 of 3445 Old 03-17-2013, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas steve View Post

out of curiosity what is your ser#?  Supposedly after 800 (last dig) it was supposed to be fixed.   but I did see where if you simply email them and tell them they will send you a plug in emitter   installsupport@AM.soncy.com   

820.
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post #1532 of 3445 Old 03-17-2013, 04:05 PM
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I'm thinking of purchasing the HW50ES while I wait a few years until 4K OLED becomes more mainstream and economically assessable. My problem is my present room dimension dictates that I maximize my screen at 92". The projector would sit behind my couch at 6 foot level on a cabinet which is fine. The problem is the throw would be about 16.5 feet and I worry that this projector would not be able to do this for the smaller size screen. Am I wrong?
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post #1533 of 3445 Old 03-17-2013, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kbrod1 View Post

I'm thinking of purchasing the HW50ES while I wait a few years until 4K OLED becomes more mainstream and economically assessable. My problem is my present room dimension dictates that I maximize my screen at 92". The projector would sit behind my couch at 6 foot level on a cabinet which is fine. The problem is the throw would be about 16.5 feet and I worry that this projector would not be able to do this for the smaller size screen. Am I wrong?

All projectors have tables that will tell you exactly what their image size ranges are at various throws. Just look it up.
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post #1534 of 3445 Old 03-17-2013, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kbrod1 View Post

I'm thinking of purchasing the HW50ES while I wait a few years until 4K OLED becomes more mainstream and economically assessable. My problem is my present room dimension dictates that I maximize my screen at 92". The projector would sit behind my couch at 6 foot level on a cabinet which is fine. The problem is the throw would be about 16.5 feet and I worry that this projector would not be able to do this for the smaller size screen. Am I wrong?

Correct, you will not be able to reduce the image down to a 92" diagonal using 16' throw. You need to get closer to 14'. If you would like to discuss your options, give us a call.

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post #1535 of 3445 Old 03-18-2013, 02:14 AM
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Hello, my projector (Sony HW50ES) is plugged in a receptacle that I can switch off via a wall switch. The reason for this is because we don't use the projector much if at all during the week. We only use it for movie on weekend so that we can switch off the power completely after the cool down cycle. Is there anything negative about this approach regarding the Sony or should I just leave it on standby? Thanks in advance for your advice.
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post #1536 of 3445 Old 03-18-2013, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by broomet View Post

Yes, mine is mounted upside down on the ceiling. I did not check to see if the buzz was there when sitting rightside up.

A quick update, I took a fellow owner's advice (thanks blipszyc!) and decided to simply send an email to Sony ES support (installsupport@am.sony.com) explaining the situation. I said even though my particular serial number may fall out of the current range of affected units, the problem is still there. Within 2 hours, I had an email response saying "I’ll request a label and get a transmitter shipped out to you ASAP"! Now why couldn't it have been that easy with the rep on the phone the other night...ugh! smile.gif

Because they often times make Reps jump through more hoops. Some times I have even been asked to make a recording of the buzzing noise.

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post #1537 of 3445 Old 03-18-2013, 08:44 AM
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I'm surprised to see folks with units in the 800s still having problems. Well, actually I'm not. If they think they fixed it back in the 200s, why would anything be different for the 800s. I think they need to get someone with better ears to QC these things.

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post #1538 of 3445 Old 03-18-2013, 08:52 AM
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There are 2 kinds of HW50's out there. The original series where the buzzing was very obvious and the later models where it's still present, but much quieter.

My projectors are just 2 feet away from my head since I use a stand for maximum gain on my HP screen. I can still hear the HW50 3D buzz but it doesn't really bother me. It shouldn't be an issue with a ceiling mount at a farther distance from the seating position.

It's good that Sony is still offering to send out the transmitters for those that are bothered by the minor buzzing sound.
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post #1539 of 3445 Old 03-18-2013, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

It shouldn't be an issue with a ceiling mount at a farther distance from the seating position.
I think that's the problem - it still is an issue. My PJ is 6 feet from my head and I sit on the opposite side of the emitter, but the buzzing was quite annoying. I knew that I couldn't just "ignore" it when my wife noticed it as well. I don't know if any of Sony's other PJs have a built in emitter, but clearly they got this one wrong. I even have a slight buzzing when the PJ is in standby mode. I'm quite shocked at how poor the electrical quality of this PJ is. If I didn't have so many points on a Sony Rewards card, I probably would've gone with the Epson. Considering my last Sony PJ (HS20) had issues too, I don't think my next one will be Sony.

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post #1540 of 3445 Old 03-18-2013, 11:56 AM
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I currently have my sony mounted 10.6 ft from my 100" SI black diamond g3 1.4 gain screen. I can probably mount it another foot back. Is it worth moving the projector back another foot?
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post #1541 of 3445 Old 03-18-2013, 02:45 PM
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I have a 92" screen and am looking to upgrade to a 106" screen. My room isn't completely light controlled, but it isn't usually an issue since I do most of my watching (> 90%) at night. I occasionally watch in the afternoon (during football season) or sometimes when the sun is still out during the longer summer days. I considered the Screen Innovations Black Diamond screen, which supposedly does well with ambient light. However, my source of daytime light is on the rear right of the room, and my understanding is that this screen doesn't do as we'll with light on the sides (it does better with ceiling lights). Also, I need a motorized screen, and the long promised Motorized screen isn't out yet. Plus, its MSRP is very very high.

So, I am thinking of the Stewart Firehawk SST. The distance from my projector to the screen is only 11' so it may be too short for the Firehawk G3. Does anyone have any experience using the Sony projector with either of these Firehawk screens?
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post #1542 of 3445 Old 03-19-2013, 07:57 AM
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Anyone tried these glasses with the hw50: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005F4HXNI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1FXZ9BNGT1OWR ?

They are IR and working with sony tv's.

That's it man, game over man, game over!
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post #1543 of 3445 Old 03-19-2013, 09:09 AM
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Maybe one of you can answer a simple question that I cannot seem to find anywhere.. What is the distance between the feet? I will be shelf mounting mine when I get it and want to see what the minimum would be for a surface to set it on.

Thanks
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post #1544 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 08:23 AM
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Llorain, i own a HW50es and saw the epson TW9000 in action.

HW50es
1. Slight flicker in glasses in 3D, yet it does seem ones eyes learn to cancel it out after a few mins.
2. Sony far better input lag for fast paced gaming in both 2D and 3D
3. Sharper picture
4. Has reality creation whichis awesome and gives it a distint advanatge over other projectors.

Epson
1. No flicker
2. Minimal (almost no xtalk ghosting) in 3D. I watched Avater and Descipcable me.

I tried lots of mid ranged projectors and found that theres not one that does it all. at the end of the day it was a comprimise and the HW50es for me ticked more boxes.
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post #1545 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 09:32 AM
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I'm surprised by those who are saying they saw flicker with the Sony. Perhaps it was with the included IR glasses. I auditioned the Sony, Epson and Panasonic and didn't really notice flicker with any of them. I'm using Monster3D RF glasses now with the Sony and haven't seen any flicker except for the slight bulb flicker on low power mode, but that seems to have corrected itself.

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post #1546 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 11:32 AM
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The sony deffo flickers and it flickers even more when using the PS3 glasses which are also compatible.
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post #1547 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 01:45 PM
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3DMamper - thanks for the reply! Glad to know it's not just me then... I know my eyes are stupidly sensitive to such things though; can't go near a DLP either because it's just rainbow city. Had wondered if the ps3 glasses were any better, shame to hear they're actually worse :P

Blip - had wondered if the Monster glasses would be any better since they have their own emitter and can be tweaked; but to be honest would rather not have to add that extra cost if I can get away with it!

Cemo - yup, exactly the same.. the shop had the two projectors stacked vertically throwing onto the same screen; so same size, same source, etc. The only difference was the brightness, and I think this may be key - as I said I saw far less flicker from the Sony on the dimmer scenes.. so who knows what I'd have seen if the epson was throwing out an image as bright as the Sony at it's brightest!

All in all though, I'm going to have to wait it seems.. the Sony's throw is a tad too short for my room (and no option to move projector or screen); oh well.. was going to move this year anyhow!
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post #1548 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 05:37 PM
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I owned the Sony VPL-HW50ES for a couple weeks and experienced the same motion judder/jitter with 2D HDTV (Charter Cable TV) and it was very frequent & bothersome, particularly with sports content. I don't think it has anything to do with the Dish Network or signal because I have Charter Cable TV and had significant motion judder issues with the Sony. The Sony is a great projector if you watch mainly movies on blu-ray disc but the Sony does not do nearly as well with high def cable tv due to this motion judder problem, just like you are experiencing on Dish network (satelite).

I ultimately returned the Sony and purchased a Sharp XV-Z30000 dlp projector and couldn't be happier. I have not seen any motion judder whatsoever with the Sharp projector and the image is very crisp, sharp & clean with good color, excellent black level & shadow detail. Dlp technology is clearly much better at handling motion versus LCos & 3LCD technologies.

Also note that I briefly owned an Epson Home Cinema 5020 and this also had frequent motion judder so I returned this projector as well. The Sony is a LCos & Epson 3LCD.

If you watch alot of regular HDTV content, particularly sports, dlp is the way to go due to it's superior technology and abiltiy in handling motion judder. I have not seen any motion artifacts on the Sharp with over 32 hours of viewing thus far. The Sharp is a dlp projector, which is clearly superior at handling motion versus the Sony & Epson. It's no surprise that the Sharp does not have creative frame interpolation because it simply doesn't need it.
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post #1549 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Van8888 View Post

Hello, my projector (Sony HW50ES) is plugged in a receptacle that I can switch off via a wall switch. The reason for this is because we don't use the projector much if at all during the week. We only use it for movie on weekend so that we can switch off the power completely after the cool down cycle. Is there anything negative about this approach regarding the Sony or should I just leave it on standby? Thanks in advance for your advice.

The problem is if someone inadvertently turns off the switch while the projector is running or cooling down. That will decrease the bulb's life. Best thing to do is to plug the projector to a UPS to be safe in case someone turns off the switch (not to mention in case your house loses power). Then, just leave the switch on all the time so the UPS won't go to battery power. You can buy a cheap cover for the switch from a hardware store to prevent people from inadvertently turning off the switch.
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post #1550 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

I think that's the problem - it still is an issue. My PJ is 6 feet from my head and I sit on the opposite side of the emitter, but the buzzing was quite annoying. I knew that I couldn't just "ignore" it when my wife noticed it as well. I don't know if any of Sony's other PJs have a built in emitter, but clearly they got this one wrong. I even have a slight buzzing when the PJ is in standby mode. I'm quite shocked at how poor the electrical quality of this PJ is. If I didn't have so many points on a Sony Rewards card, I probably would've gone with the Epson. Considering my last Sony PJ (HS20) had issues too, I don't think my next one will be Sony.

The internal emitter didn't bother me and I didn't notice it at all until after reading forum. Then I noticed it but was not objectionable. Maybe if the Sony has a louder fan noise than other projectors the emitter buzzing wouldn't even be noticeable. If it bothers you, you can always get the external emitter. If Sony wont give it for free, AV Science sells it really cheap. The Sony projector is the quietest projector available in terms of fan noise. So getting an external emitter is still far preferable than getting other projectors in terms of having overall minimal projector noise. A main selling point of the Sony, for me, is how quiet it's fan noise is. Quieter than all the other projectors I was considering, and it makes my investments in speakers, processor, etc. much more worthwhile in terms of not having fan noise.
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post #1551 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 07:06 PM
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FWIW I got to demo a HW50ES at a home theater meet over the weekend. We watched 3D for about 45 minutes. The projector was basically 2 feet over the first row of seats where we were sitting and all four of us didn't hear a strange noise. Is this issue on a unit by unit basis or is it something that seems to effect the vast majority of them?
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post #1552 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 07:50 PM
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So I currently have a hw50 and a hw95 that I have setup to decide which one I should keep. The hw95 seems much more crisper (detailed) of a picture, but I know right now that it'll be as bright as it'll ever be. Whereas the hw50 I can still increase the light output but the picture doesn't seem as crisp. Has anyone compared the two? Not sure which way I want to go. I'm so confused, I want the best of both! RC doesn't work for me, too much noise even when set low. the screen is a BD 1.4 zero edge. Any guidance is appreciated as this is my first projector. Thanks guys.
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post #1553 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by huggerx View Post

So I currently have a hw50 and a hw95 that I have setup to decide which one I should keep. The hw95 seems much more crisper (detailed) of a picture, but I know right now that it'll be as bright as it'll ever be. Whereas the hw50 I can still increase the light output but the picture doesn't seem as crisp. Has anyone compared the two? Not sure which way I want to go. I'm so confused, I want the best of both! RC doesn't work for me, too much noise even when set low. the screen is a BD 1.4 zero edge. Any guidance is appreciated as this is my first projector. Thanks guys.

One thing about the 50 is its hard to focus. I use the green letters on the setup screen. It needs to get up to temp about 20min for best results. The lens has a sewwt spot just so so easy to pass.

The rc is well strong. Try putting the rc on but at 0 then the noise at 0, then the sharp at 0. turn off all noise filters in advance settings. Now slowly start bring sharp up. max about 30. Then you can go back to rc for a max of about 20.
Its a very sharp detailed pix. Is the 95 still better? I would like to know.
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post #1554 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 08:53 PM
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The lens on the 95 is much better. The image sharpness is naturally sharper not processed like it is on the 50ES with RC enabled. There was far too much image noise with the RC on even at 10-20.
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post #1555 of 3445 Old 03-20-2013, 11:19 PM
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The guys who r not happy with RC, whats your viewing distance and screen size? I think if you sit close to screen u will see disadvantages of RC but if you dont seat not so close then u will be oke, m I right or not?
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post #1556 of 3445 Old 03-21-2013, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by randman View Post

The problem is if someone inadvertently turns off the switch while the projector is running or cooling down. That will decrease the bulb's life. Best thing to do is to plug the projector to a UPS to be safe in case someone turns off the switch (not to mention in case your house loses power). Then, just leave the switch on all the time so the UPS won't go to battery power. You can buy a cheap cover for the switch from a hardware store to prevent people from inadvertently turning off the switch.

Thanks randman. The projector is ceiling mounted and is plugged in a surge protector but not an UPS. I have a finished theater so it is difficult at this point to properly install an UPS. I realize that in standby mode, the bulb is off. I just want to know if the projector is receiving any electricity in standby mode that could potentially shorten the life of the projector.
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post #1557 of 3445 Old 03-21-2013, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by KDH View Post

One thing about the 50 is its hard to focus. I use the green letters on the setup screen. It needs to get up to temp about 20min for best results. The lens has a sewwt spot just so so easy to pass.

The rc is well strong. Try putting the rc on but at 0 then the noise at 0, then the sharp at 0. turn off all noise filters in advance settings. Now slowly start bring sharp up. max about 30. Then you can go back to rc for a max of about 20.
Its a very sharp detailed pix. Is the 95 still better? I would like to know.

I will try your suggestion tonight, RC to me at my seating of 12-13' is terrible. I'm shooting onto 110" screen with a throw of 12' to 13.5', I'm trying different throws. I know I'm new to projectors but for this much money one would figure a decently bright picture and a sharp picture, just my thought. Right now I feel the hw95 is a better picture. My wife even commented that it had a crisper picture with more visible detail. Last night I even wondered if I made the right decision jumping into this, maybe I am over critical.
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post #1558 of 3445 Old 03-21-2013, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huggerx View Post

I will try your suggestion tonight, RC to me at my seating of 12-13' is terrible. I'm shooting onto 110" screen with a throw of 12' to 13.5', I'm trying different throws. I know I'm new to projectors but for this much money one would figure a decently bright picture and a sharp picture, just my thought. Right now I feel the hw95 is a better picture. My wife even commented that it had a crisper picture with more visible detail. Last night I even wondered if I made the right decision jumping into this, maybe I am over critical.

How is the 3d with the 95? or is that even an issue for you.I am coming from a sony 90es and one of the main reasons i went to the 50 was for the lumens in 3d.Your 95 i would imagine has an awesome 2d picture. The 50 for me has a very good 2d and 3d picture quality for me, but one thing i miss with the 90 is the moterized lens, although now that the 50 is set up i rarely ever touch it.
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post #1559 of 3445 Old 03-21-2013, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KDH View Post

One thing about the 50 is its hard to focus. I use the green letters on the setup screen. It needs to get up to temp about 20min for best results. The lens has a sewwt spot just so so easy to pass.

The rc is well strong. Try putting the rc on but at 0 then the noise at 0, then the sharp at 0. turn off all noise filters in advance settings. Now slowly start bring sharp up. max about 30. Then you can go back to rc for a max of about 20.
Its a very sharp detailed pix. Is the 95 still better? I would like to know.

I will try your suggestion tonight, RC to me at my seating of 12-13' is terrible. I'm shooting onto 110" screen with a throw of 12' to 13.5', I'm trying different throws. I know I'm new to projectors but for this much money one would figure a decently bright picture and a sharp picture, just my thought. Right now I feel the hw95 is a better picture. My wife even commented that it had a crisper picture with more visible detail. Last night I even wondered if I made the right decision jumping into this, maybe I am over critical.

 

I'm at 14' and 126" diagonal (110" wide) and I like RC at 20 or below but I also have a Darbee in the chain.  I also think that RC is very source dependent and some sources will make it appear much more grainy even with a lower setting.  I would recommend trying a Darbee before giving up on it altogether though.  That should still be significantly less expensive than a HW95 (unless you're doing CIH and need the added features of the 95?).

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post #1560 of 3445 Old 03-21-2013, 11:44 AM
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Does anyone know how to reset the vertical lens shift back to its neutral position? I may lower the project at a later time to minimize using the vertical lens shift. Thanks.
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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