Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 64 - AVS Forum
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post #1891 of 3445 Old 05-23-2013, 10:44 PM
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ditto. have some text on screen. i stood close to screen while another person dialed the focus. we dialed in one direction till it got sharper and kept on goig till ot became blurred. now I knew the max sharpness and then dialed back in opp direction.
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post #1892 of 3445 Old 05-23-2013, 10:46 PM
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sorry for the typos. i hate typing on touchscreen
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post #1893 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 08:37 AM
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Nice! Thanks guys.

I searched the manual for custom memories, nothing came up.

How do you store and recall custom settings? You are able to store up to 5 I think it is.

When Auto Iris is Off, that is maximum Cinema Black?

Has anyone setup their 50ES with the Disney wow? I just picked it up.
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post #1894 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 10:48 AM
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Your settings get saved under the different presets. Also, each input has its own preset memory as well.
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post #1895 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 12:23 PM
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Hello friends, in my setup V Keystone = -6 , will this be a problem for the quality?
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post #1896 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 12:36 PM
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Keystone is done by cropping pixels and reduces image quality. Don't use keystone.. rather make sure your screen and projector are properly aligned such that keystone is not necessary.
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post #1897 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 12:37 PM
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Hi you should never use keystone for any reason. It will affect the pq. The projector needs to be moved to a better location.
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post #1898 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 01:52 PM
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thank you i am in the menu and in categoria installation and i made the v keystone 0 and i dont see any change in the screen, why the men who came to my house for setup did use the keystone? i dont see any difference between -6 and 0. am i in the wrong menu?

sorry for my english
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post #1899 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 02:30 PM
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They used keystone because it's easier than taking the time to properly align the projector, and you didn't notice the difference...

Or, more optimistically they used keystone because your layout is such that the projector can't be aligned to the screen and that was the best compromise they could make.

Regards,
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post #1900 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 03:00 PM
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how can i understand if they used Optical keystone correction or Digital keystone correction?

i read that

Optical keystone correction adjusts the image proportions by physically modifying the light-path through the lens system. The correction happens after the light has been reflected off (passed through) the image panel(s) in the projector, hence the full panel remain in use - there is no loss of resolution.

Digital keystone correction adjusts the image proportions by shrinking the image at the edge furthest away from the screen before it is generated by the projectors image panel(s). Hence, the image will lose resolution towards this edge. Digital keystone correction may also introduce artifacts, such as jagged edges.
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post #1901 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

how can i understand if they used Optical keystone correction or Digital keystone correction?

i read that

Optical keystone correction adjusts the image proportions by physically modifying the light-path through the lens system. The correction happens after the light has been reflected off (passed through) the image panel(s) in the projector, hence the full panel remain in use - there is no loss of resolution.

Digital keystone correction adjusts the image proportions by shrinking the image at the edge furthest away from the screen before it is generated by the projectors image panel(s). Hence, the image will lose resolution towards this edge. Digital keystone correction may also introduce artifacts, such as jagged edges.

V Keystone = -6 is the indicator in the menu that the image is being "digitally" moved. The dial wheels on the top of the pj, (or bottom if mounted upside down) move the image Optically, which is what you want to use. Set the V and/or the H keystone settings in the menu to 0. Then use the dial wheels to move the image where it needs to be onto the screen.
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post #1902 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

how can i understand if they used Optical keystone correction or Digital keystone correction?

i read that

Optical keystone correction adjusts the image proportions by physically modifying the light-path through the lens system. The correction happens after the light has been reflected off (passed through) the image panel(s) in the projector, hence the full panel remain in use - there is no loss of resolution.

Digital keystone correction adjusts the image proportions by shrinking the image at the edge furthest away from the screen before it is generated by the projectors image panel(s). Hence, the image will lose resolution towards this edge. Digital keystone correction may also introduce artifacts, such as jagged edges.

The only keystone adjustment on the hw50 is digital. If you own this projector and they used keystone correction, by definition its digital keystone correction.
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post #1903 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 09:00 PM
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I recieved my hw50 today and I love this thing!!! I was worried about black levels after getting used to my vt50 plasma but the black levels and contrast are unreal! My unit seems perfect no dead pixels, panel alignment looks great, my 3d emitter is silent. The only problem is on full black I notice the corners are a little lighter then the center, almost like LCD clouding. Is this normal for these kind of projectors? It's not a big problem as I only notice it on full black pictures or maybe the darkest scenes. I'm in canada and I have heard that the spare bulb has to be mailed in to get it but there was no paper in the box about it, could any Canadians give me some help with that?

Thanks
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post #1904 of 3445 Old 05-24-2013, 10:35 PM
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I have the mail in coupon somewhere, I'll try and find for you. Don't bother calling Sony about the mail in rebate because they literary have no clue. Did you end up getting it from Sevan? I've already told him I wan't the first 4k consumer Sony that comes out in Canada. He said he should be able to get me the first one with his connections:eek:
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post #1905 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 05:01 AM
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Hey dudes, need some help with this projector...

I'm building a new dedicated theater. The projector will be in a cabinet, 17.5' away from the 110" x 47" AT 'scope screen. I think that throw distance is too far for the native 16:9 aspect ratio of the projector. According to the screen calculator at the "ProjectorCentral.com" website, at maximum zoom (1.6x), the HW50ES will only fit into that 47" high screen at a maximum of 14.8' away from the screen. If I move the projector back to its preferred location, the screen would have to be 70" high! Since a Constant Image Height system starts with a squeezed 16:9 image filling the screen top-to-bottom before the anamorphic stretch, it looks like this projector doesn't have enough zoom to make my preferred location work. I can't make the screen larger - which would neatly solve the problem - because my first (of two) rows of seats will only be 9' from the screen. 110" horizontal is the widest I can use.

Do I have a problem, Houston?
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post #1906 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 06:14 AM
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I ended up getting from the local sony store was to impatient. I have a PDF of the coupon I guess I could just print it out and send it. It does not say anything on there about not being able to do that.


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I have the mail in coupon somewhere, I'll try and find for you. Don't bother calling Sony about the mail in rebate because they literary have no clue. Did you end up getting it from Sevan? I've already told him I wan't the first 4k consumer Sony that comes out in Canada. He said he should be able to get me the first one with his connections:eek:
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post #1907 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by archiguy View Post

Hey dudes, need some help with this projector...

I'm building a new dedicated theater. The projector will be in a cabinet, 17.5' away from the 110" x 47" AT 'scope screen. I think that throw distance is too far for the native 16:9 aspect ratio of the projector. According to the screen calculator at the "ProjectorCentral.com" website, at maximum zoom (1.6x), the HW50ES will only fit into that 47" high screen at a maximum of 14.8' away from the screen. If I move the projector back to its preferred location, the screen would have to be 70" high! Since a Constant Image Height system starts with a squeezed 16:9 image filling the screen top-to-bottom before the anamorphic stretch, it looks like this projector doesn't have enough zoom to make my preferred location work. I can't make the screen larger - which would neatly solve the problem - because my first (of two) rows of seats will only be 9' from the screen. 110" horizontal is the widest I can use.

Do I have a problem, Houston?

You are correct. You have a problem. The Sony can't go that small from that distance. Also are you planning on manually adjusting the projector each time you switch from 16:9 to scope and back? The HW50ES does not have zoom memory. As for solutions, You can get a telephoto conversion lens and increase your throw distance. Cost of a good one is expensive. Second method would be to get a Lumagen Mini 3D and let it re-scale your 16:9 image to fit your smaller screen. This method is not cheap, but it is cheaper than the telephoto lens. Give us a call if you have any questions.

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post #1908 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 07:29 AM
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You are correct. You have a problem. The Sony can't go that small from that distance. Also are you planning on manually adjusting the projector each time you switch from 16:9 to scope and back? The HW50ES does not have zoom memory. As for solutions, You can get a telephoto conversion lens and increase your throw distance. Cost of a good one is expensive. Second method would be to get a Lumagen Mini 3D and let it re-scale your 16:9 image to fit your smaller screen. This method is not cheap, but it is cheaper than the telephoto lens. Give us a call if you have any questions.

Thank you Mike. smile.gif That's as I suspected. The Panamorph rep first clued me in (I called them up to see if the Cinavista lens could be fitted to a manual sled). He said the Cinavista lens wouldn't work with this projector at that throw distance but the FVX200, one of their custom lenses - a Constant Image Width model - would. Then I called Sony and asked them what the maximum throw was for the HW50ES projector given a 47" high screen. Same answer. Then I went to the calculator on ProjectorCentral and got the cold truth for myself.

I'm working with a guy from "Audio Advice" here in Charlotte (an AVS advertiser - full disclaimer), who was pushing this projector even though he knew the specifics about my room and seating arrangement. He also told me a good acoustically transparent screen would run me at least $1500 more than a basic screen (wrong - see Seymour A/V among others).

I think there's a moral here... Do your own research! That HT guy from the friendly A/V store down the street may only be looking to sell you products which give him the highest margins, and giving you bad advice as a consequence. If I had listened to him and bought the Sony projector or overpaid for a screen, I'd be in a world of hurt.
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post #1909 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by archiguy View Post

Thank you Mike. smile.gif That's as I suspected. The Panamorph rep first clued me in (I called them up to see if the Cinavista lens could be fitted to a manual sled). He said the Cinavista lens wouldn't work with this projector at that throw distance but the FVX200, one of their custom lenses - a Constant Image Width model - would. Then I called Sony and asked them what the maximum throw was for the HW50ES projector given a 47" high screen. Same answer. Then I went to the calculator on ProjectorCentral and got the cold truth for myself.

I'm working with a guy from "Audio Advice" here in Charlotte (an AVS advertiser - full disclaimer), who was pushing this projector even though he knew the specifics about my room and seating arrangement. He also told me a good acoustically transparent screen would run me at least $1500 more than a basic screen (wrong - see Seymour A/V among others).

I think there's a moral here... Do your own research! That HT guy from the friendly A/V store down the street may only be looking to sell you products which give him the highest margins, and giving you bad advice as a consequence. If I had listened to him and bought the Sony projector or overpaid for a screen, I'd be in a world of hurt.

Keep in mind AVS is a dealer for every item/manufacturer that you have mentioned, along with many more. smile.gif

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post #1910 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 10:16 AM
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Good to know Mike. I'm really not trusting this guy who's supposed to be "advising" me.

But there's another well-received projector that has a more robust zoom (2:1) which would fit my 47" screen and electronic zoom to boot - the JVC DLA X55R (does it go by another model number as well?). Cheaper than the 50EX/anamorphic lens combo. The Panamorph guy said I might be able to rig up a manual sled to get it out of the way for 16:9 viewing, or they'd try to do it for me. Or, I could just take advantage of the zoom function to let the projector fill my 'scope screen vertically with both aspect ratios. Honestly, what is the drawback of foregoing an anamporphic lens? Do you have distortion in the 16x9 image? Lose resolution? Is it really that big a deal?
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post #1911 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 10:59 AM
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I have spent many hours already first going thru the projector comparison threads and now on page 22 of this one with seemingly no end in sight. I apologise if this has been answered or once or multiple times already.

I have the mounting area built into my wall above the equipment closet with a smallish glass covered hole for a projectors image to go thru with a duct system to take all the heat for my equipment down to the basement where a fan is mounted to the joists. Worked great for the G15 is was designed for. I've had a RS1 mounted in the same spot since 2007 when the RS1 went in there. I'm switching to an HW50 now, (will be here this coming week) and its apparent the the emitter for the supplied glasses is on the bottom right and I don't want to make the hole in the flap bigger / buy more optical glass etc.

Seems Sony wants $80 for their transmitter which, it seems, I would need to mount in the front of the room anyway meaning another cat 5 run as well since my Stewart Grayhawk is 17' from the projector anyway.

Since I have yet to watch anything in 3D anyway I have no idea how keen I'm going to be on investing a ton of time and money to get the Sony glasses working.

I THOUGHT I saw comments about the Monster Vision RF glasses being much more comfortable and "work better" than the Sony supplied glasses. I like the idea of being able to move around without worrying about a loss of sync anyway. A package of two including a RF adapter / emitter by MV looks like it would cost me about $160 and would prefer to have the best 3D experience possible if I do put more money towards messing with 3D.

Opinions on going with MV glasses or another pair (or more) of RF glasses vs my hassling with this extender?

Thanks,

Larry

Incidentally my RS1 is for sale. 700 hours on the original bulb with a AV Foundry VideoPro for CMS. Looks good but want a brighter projector and Stewart wants a fortune, nearly 4k, to reload my 120" screen box with a material with better reflectivity. It's a electrimask and NOT going to simply take it down to put a hi-power up there. No room for 2 screen either.

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post #1912 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 11:17 AM
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I have spent 420 hours watching various broadcasts DIRECTV, Blu-ray, still photos of family and PS3 video games. The VPL-HW50 is very sensitive to focus. I have concluded this is due to the revealing nature of the projector. Test discs are good starting point but we do not watch test disc in reality. Here are the steps I use:
A. The projector must be as straight to the screen as you can possibly get it. I have found that it never is perfect because even if you measure from the back of projector to rear wall or from front of projector to screen something is slightly off. Your walls and ceiling are never perfectly straight.
B. When I first turn the projector on I wait one hour before I focus. Then I focus using the green screen. I have found the 2 person focus method with one person standing at the screen unreliable because the family member does not have a trained eye. You have to walk back and forth and look yourself. You must also stand at exactly the same spot when you are at the screen. It’s important not to be tired because if you are you will second guess yourself. Your allergies will affect your focus as well. Focus once and leave it alone.
C. The green screen is spotty but it shows pixel structure quite well. When you activate the focus menu make sure it is bright not dim. Sometimes when you activate the focus menu it’s dim on the screen. To ensure its bright turn on a broadcast that is really bright before you activate the focus menu. This will ensure the focus menu is at its brightest light output.
D. Take a break and just casually watch something. Relaxed viewing with no stress on you for perfection focus. What I personally do is I take a break doing something else then come back.
E. Begin focus on focus menu. Focus until you see the shadow area behind the text letters on the focus menu screen then stop and go up to screen. Look at the very center letter charter I think its letter P. Walk back and forth until you can fully see the pixel structure within the letter. As you adjust and walk back and forth the structure of the letter should be defined. Do not worry if the letter is not perfectly focused, just observe the pixel structure. When you adjust the focus ring do it in very small amounts or you over shoot.
F. After you get the center letter character pixel structure as well defined as you can rest your eyes a few minutes.
G. Final focus walk back and forth observing the pixel structure of the entire green screen focus menu text. You will be making small adjustments until the entire text across the screen has the most pixel structure. If you go too far the text will show a halo around all the text letters. Example: you are turning focus lens to right and halo appears turn it back where halo is gone but pixel structure is still clear.
H. Shut off focus menu. Pull up home menu and observe. It should be clear at your normal viewing distance. Now move menu from left side of screen to middle of screen. The menu should be very close in sharpness either in middle of screen or side of screen.
I. This is OCD to the max but it gives me the most uniform focus on all sources.
HOLD ON, HOLD ON, HOLD ONNNNNNN I THINK I CAN GET IT SHARPER!
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post #1913 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 02:27 PM
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I. This is OCD to the max but it gives me the most uniform focus on all sources.
Definitely OCD. tongue.gif I just bring up the standard menu, turn the ring until I think it looks focused from my viewing position (about 17') and thats it. Not one moving picture looks out of focus to me or the other 20 or so folks that have watched a movie in my theater. To each their own I guess. cool.gif

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post #1914 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by videohot View Post

I THOUGHT I saw comments about the Monster Vision RF glasses being much more comfortable and "work better" than the Sony supplied glasses. I like the idea of being able to move around without worrying about a loss of sync anyway. A package of two including a RF adapter / emitter by MV looks like it would cost me about $160 and would prefer to have the best 3D experience possible if I do put more money towards messing with 3D.

Opinions on going with MV glasses or another pair (or more) of RF glasses vs my hassling with this extender?
I'm totally RF at this point and don't miss the IR glasses one bit. (well, maybe the price difference) I'd recommend the newer Optoma or Curt Palme glasses over the MonsterVision ones. Seems Monster has discontinued theirs anyway.

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post #1915 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by archiguy View Post

I think there's a moral here... Do your own research! That HT guy from the friendly A/V store down the street may only be looking to sell you products which give him the highest margins, and giving you bad advice as a consequence. If I had listened to him and bought the Sony projector or overpaid for a screen, I'd be in a world of hurt.

I can't remember the last time I walked in to a 'friendly' AV store that wanted to do anything but quickly sell me something they had in current inventory. When I was shopping for my projector (back before the HW50 had even come out) I left the local 'good' store in disgust after they repeatedly lied or downplayed issues I had with the items they were trying to sell me. I used to enjoy going in to these places and looking at current options and planning future purchases, now I just feel like I am wasting their time and they are wasting mine. Feels like they just want some ignorant rich person to come off the street and just let the sales people tell them what they want and how much they should spend for it.

AV Science took care of me, helped me where i was lacking knowledge and didn't try to push me in to anything I didn't want.
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post #1916 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 06:25 PM
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Hello. I own a Jvc hd1 and plan to buy the Sony. Does anybody know if my screenline othello 96'' screen with 1.2 gain is suitable, or do I have to get a new one? And which one do you recommend (under $1000)?
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post #1917 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

I'm totally RF at this point and don't miss the IR glasses one bit. (well, maybe the price difference) I'd recommend the newer Optoma or Curt Palme glasses over the MonsterVision ones. Seems Monster has discontinued theirs anyway.

Thanks!
Your recomendation kinda coincided with parts of comments about glasses I've seen so went for 2 pair from CP.

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post #1918 of 3445 Old 05-25-2013, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by johnsv View Post

Hello. I own a Jvc hd1 and plan to buy the Sony. Does anybody know if my screenline othello 96'' screen with 1.2 gain is suitable, or do I have to get a new one? And which one do you recommend (under $1000)?

No problem for a 1.2 gain. Larger screen would be better though.
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post #1919 of 3445 Old 05-26-2013, 07:08 AM
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I'm sitting 10 feet from a 92 inch 1.2 gain screen and I love it, I use low lamp with iris almost closed and it looks amazing. 3d looks nice and bright as well.
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post #1920 of 3445 Old 05-26-2013, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timescape7 View Post

No problem for a 1.2 gain. Larger screen would be better though.

Up to a point. Watch out for the short zoom limit on this projector; it will influence the maximum screen size.
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