Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 82 - AVS Forum
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post #2431 of 3445 Old 08-14-2013, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stauff View Post

I'm using a Aurum 35 ft High speed HDMI, the other was a mediacom...

If i had to guess it is a problem with one component or the other...the challenge with HDMI is figuring which.

I cannot see the reciever since it is in another room.

I have ARC and HDMI (Control?) enabled maybe if i turn that off i can determine which component id effecting it.

I did initially think it was a power supply issue since my first observation was during a storm but there have been, ithink, at least one ocurrence every time i use the theater.

Any other thoughts?

I get a similar situation once every couple of weeks. But I think it's the Darbee causing it.
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post #2432 of 3445 Old 08-14-2013, 07:28 PM
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I have the same issue. About every 10 hours (highly variable) the unit just shuts off ) LED goes from green to solid red. No cool down. Anyone else have this issue? Any ideas as far as troubleshooting? Should the unit be sent in for repairs?

Thanks!
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post #2433 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 08:55 AM
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Can anyone list what features you are running out of the box? I listed my settings a few posts back. Thanks.
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post #2434 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 01:10 PM
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I have a slight issue. When I hung up the projector, it (of course) wasn't perfectly level. But the drop tube wasn't all the way tight. So when I went to adjust the projector I ended up using some horizontal lens shift when I thought it was even, but then it got knocked out of position.

The issue is that I don't know where zero lens shift is. I'd like to start with that as a baseline. I have tightened the drop tube now but its a big balancing act to get the image flat on the screen between the pitch, yaw and roll as well as the lens shift.

Any tips to getting it hung properly?

- Klipsch RF-82 ii, RC-62 ii, RS-52 ii
- Klipsch RW-12D
- Sony HW50es
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post #2435 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baloo_btru View Post

I have a slight issue. When I hung up the projector, it (of course) wasn't perfectly level. But the drop tube wasn't all the way tight. So when I went to adjust the projector I ended up using some horizontal lens shift when I thought it was even, but then it got knocked out of position.

The issue is that I don't know where zero lens shift is. I'd like to start with that as a baseline. I have tightened the drop tube now but its a big balancing act to get the image flat on the screen between the pitch, yaw and roll as well as the lens shift.

Any tips to getting it hung properly?

Project the pattern and adjust to the extremes of horizontal shift marking the midpoint in each case. Then, adjust horizontal shift so the midpoint of the pattern is halfway between these points. You may need to zoom out first.
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post #2436 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scchang View Post

Project the pattern and adjust to the extremes of horizontal shift marking the midpoint in each case. Then, adjust horizontal shift so the midpoint of the pattern is halfway between these points. You may need to zoom out first.

Great idea. Thank you!

- Klipsch RF-82 ii, RC-62 ii, RS-52 ii
- Klipsch RW-12D
- Sony HW50es
- Firehawk G3
- Denon 2113
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post #2437 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwinter View Post

I have the same issue. About every 10 hours (highly variable) the unit just shuts off ) LED goes from green to solid red. No cool down. Anyone else have this issue? Any ideas as far as troubleshooting? Should the unit be sent in for repairs?

Thanks!
Have exactly the same problem as you have happened about 50-60 times during 500h.
Sent it in to sony prime support that does not find anything wrong with it.
They switched power supply and did a firmware update for preventive purposes, but the problem remains.
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post #2438 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 04:01 PM
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Been fighting with 'flicker' lately and can't nail down what is causing it. It seems scene specific (stop the movie and the flickering stops, start it back it he same spot and flicker resumes), seems to only occur with 24p content, and happens even on high bulb, so I am wondering if it might be the auto-iris or maybe some other setting I am missing. I DON'T have the 'film mode' on.

Any thing I might be missing or need to check?
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post #2439 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scchang View Post

Project the pattern and adjust to the extremes of horizontal shift marking the midpoint in each case. Then, adjust horizontal shift so the midpoint of the pattern is halfway between these points. You may need to zoom out first.

Can someone expand on this a bit? Some of that isn't clear to me.
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post #2440 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdoherty972 View Post

Can someone expand on this a bit? Some of that isn't clear to me.

Make the image as small as possible.
Lens shift right as far as you can and mark center.
Lens shift left as far as you can and mark center.
Now center the image so that the center of the screen is mid way between the two marks.
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post #2441 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 04:41 PM
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Hi,

I'm about to pull the trigger on buying a hw50es, and I'd like for someone to let me know if:
1). There are any common issues I should be aware of
2). If the projector will work well in my space

I have a non dedicated room that's 37' long by 17' wide and 9' ceilings. The screen will be ceiling mounted on the 17' wide wall.

I have a surround system, so audio is not a concern.

The walls in the room.will be flat dark grey and I have white ceilings (not willing to go bat cave due to aesthetics). Have 1 egressed window that will have blackout shades.

All wiring has been done. 35' HDMI from projector mount location in ceiling to A/V rack. HDMI was bought from local A/V shop to avoid any long distance issues (usually buy mono price, but didn't want to tear out drywall if HDMI didn't work). 2 cat6 cables along same run. Projector mount location around 15' from the screen. Electric plug in ceiling.

For the screen, I'm planning to buy either a 110" or 120" electric tab tensioned screen (cheap, hopefully) that will drop in front of a wall mounted plasma. I want this setup so I'm.not burning my lamp watching TV just killing time. Any suggestions for a cheap good screen (<750)?

Mostly watch tv (sports/movies/shows) and blu-rays. Most of the time will be in complete darkness, but may watch football games with a little backroom light.

Any other information needed?

Family Room
Samsung TV - PN59D8000 - wall mounted
HW50ES projector w/electric Elite 120" ceiling mounted screen (drops in front of plasma)
Receiver - Yamaha RX-A3000
Amp (getting ready to buy amp - probably Emotiva XPR-5)
Front Speakers - B&W CM9
Center - B&W CMC2
Surrounds - B&W CM5
Rear...
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post #2442 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Hi,

I'm about to pull the trigger on buying a hw50es, and I'd like for someone to let me know if:
1). There are any common issues I should be aware of
2). If the projector will work well in my space

I have a non dedicated room that's 37' long by 17' wide and 9' ceilings. The screen will be ceiling mounted on the 17' wide wall.

I have a surround system, so audio is not a concern.

The walls in the room.will be flat dark grey and I have white ceilings (not willing to go bat cave due to aesthetics). Have 1 egressed window that will have blackout shades.

All wiring has been done. 35' HDMI from projector mount location in ceiling to A/V rack. HDMI was bought from local A/V shop to avoid any long distance issues (usually buy mono price, but didn't want to tear out drywall if HDMI didn't work). 2 cat6 cables along same run. Projector mount location around 15' from the screen. Electric plug in ceiling.

For the screen, I'm planning to buy either a 110" or 120" electric tab tensioned screen (cheap, hopefully) that will drop in front of a wall mounted plasma. I want this setup so I'm.not burning my lamp watching TV just killing time. Any suggestions for a cheap good screen (<750)?

Mostly watch tv (sports/movies/shows) and blu-rays. Most of the time will be in complete darkness, but may watch football games with a little backroom light.

Any other information needed?

Throw wise you are in good shape. With 15' throw, you can shoot anything from a 97" to 147" size (diagonal 16:9) screen. This does not mean that you can light up a 147". Assuming that you are using a cheap 1.0 gain screen, you have enough lumens to light up the 120" screen fine for 2D, but 3D could use more brightness.

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post #2443 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 05:57 PM
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First off, I want to thank Mike at avs sales for his help.

I ended up getting the projector from a local dealer, however I was able to get 56 months interest free financing - which is why I did it. Evidently their supplier has 1 left in stock so I just now made a down payment to hold it.

I'm excited to get it installed and experience it at home, but won't be able to until I close on my new house on Sep. 3rd.

Family Room
Samsung TV - PN59D8000 - wall mounted
HW50ES projector w/electric Elite 120" ceiling mounted screen (drops in front of plasma)
Receiver - Yamaha RX-A3000
Amp (getting ready to buy amp - probably Emotiva XPR-5)
Front Speakers - B&W CM9
Center - B&W CMC2
Surrounds - B&W CM5
Rear...
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post #2444 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 06:42 PM
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56 months holy cow, that's a long time haha and unlike anything I've seen locally here. HHgregg has 24months but that's the longest around here

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post #2445 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjans View Post

Have exactly the same problem as you have happened about 50-60 times during 500h.
Sent it in to sony prime support that does not find anything wrong with it.
They switched power supply and did a firmware update for preventive purposes, but the problem remains.

Thanks--good to know that I am not the only one with this rather annoying problem that will likely shorten the bulb life. What is the best way to get in contact with Sony Prime Support to discuss this issue.

Thanks!
Don
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post #2446 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 09:06 PM
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Sony prime could not find anything wrong with the projector so they have asked me to try another blu ray and use hdmi input 2 instead of number 1.
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post #2447 of 3445 Old 08-15-2013, 10:32 PM
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Ok, just now noticed that the HW50ES doesn't have a 12 volt trigger for the screen. I'm very disappointed that I didn't see that before I bought my projector tonight. I'm trying to search for screens and, good lord, that is the hard part.

I'm using the projection calculator on projectorcentral.com.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HW50ES-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Every time I change the screen size, it changes the throw distance. It seems like that calculator only allows for 1 mounting location for a specific screen size, and vice versa.

For example, with a 1.0 gain screen, it shows that for a 120" diagonal screen, the throw must be 14'8". If I adjust the throw to 15', it says the screen must be 123" diagonal.

I can't believe that mounting these projectors would be this limited. What am I missing?

Also, anyone have any experience with Jamestown or Monoprice screens? I would really like to have a 110" electic tab tensioned screen with between 12" and 18" drop. Any more drop will force the screen to be in front of my center channel. This has become quite a challenge to find a screen (without paying thousands). I might need to just buy a fixed screen for now and use the saved money for buying a bunch of extra bulbs. Heck, I'll probably need a new bulb about every 6 months if I only use the projector.

Family Room
Samsung TV - PN59D8000 - wall mounted
HW50ES projector w/electric Elite 120" ceiling mounted screen (drops in front of plasma)
Receiver - Yamaha RX-A3000
Amp (getting ready to buy amp - probably Emotiva XPR-5)
Front Speakers - B&W CM9
Center - B&W CMC2
Surrounds - B&W CM5
Rear...
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post #2448 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booga24 View Post

I know this is my first projector and the wow factor is in effect, but looking at the picture projecting on a white wall. Do I really need a screen? can it really get better than this?

In your case...starting with a DIY screen might be a good avenue to focus your time after HT construction is complete. It is a good way to wind down without spending too much money. You can build a very nice screen for < $50-$75 via BO cloth. You can also build an AT screen for a similar price with Spandex. While usually "not as good" (which is subjective and why it is in quotes)..it is a great way to explore other options but still better 'than a wall". Enjoy your PJ.

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
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post #2449 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Ok, just now noticed that the HW50ES doesn't have a 12 volt trigger for the screen. I'm very disappointed that I didn't see that before I bought my projector tonight. I'm trying to search for screens and, good lord, that is the hard part.

I'm using the projection calculator on projectorcentral.com.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HW50ES-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Every time I change the screen size, it changes the throw distance. It seems like that calculator only allows for 1 mounting location for a specific screen size, and vice versa.

For example, with a 1.0 gain screen, it shows that for a 120" diagonal screen, the throw must be 14'8". If I adjust the throw to 15', it says the screen must be 123" diagonal.

I can't believe that mounting these projectors would be this limited. What am I missing?

Also, anyone have any experience with Jamestown or Monoprice screens? I would really like to have a 110" electic tab tensioned screen with between 12" and 18" drop. Any more drop will force the screen to be in front of my center channel. This has become quite a challenge to find a screen (without paying thousands). I might need to just buy a fixed screen for now and use the saved money for buying a bunch of extra bulbs. Heck, I'll probably need a new bulb about every 6 months if I only use the projector.

Try this instead, and use the HW30.

http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/

- Klipsch RF-82 ii, RC-62 ii, RS-52 ii
- Klipsch RW-12D
- Sony HW50es
- Firehawk G3
- Denon 2113
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post #2450 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trepidati0n View Post

In your case...starting with a DIY screen might be a good avenue to focus your time after HT construction is complete. It is a good way to wind down without spending too much money. You can build a very nice screen for < $50-$75 via BO cloth. You can also build an AT screen for a similar price with Spandex. While usually "not as good" (which is subjective and why it is in quotes)..it is a great way to explore other options but still better 'than a wall". Enjoy your PJ.


I will start off with a DIY painted wall (with screen paint) then order a screen after my new bulb losses some of it's brightness.

How do you activate torch mode?
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post #2451 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 06:56 AM
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The Sony's shipped to us yesterday. All outstanding orders will be filled with this order. We even have a few extra as of right now. smile.gif

Added
Scheduled to arrive Tuesday.

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Stewart, Seymour, SE, SI & many more.
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post #2452 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

Ok, just now noticed that the HW50ES doesn't have a 12 volt trigger for the screen. I'm very disappointed that I didn't see that before I bought my projector tonight. I'm trying to search for screens and, good lord, that is the hard part.

I'm using the projection calculator on projectorcentral.com.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sony-VPL-HW50ES-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Every time I change the screen size, it changes the throw distance. It seems like that calculator only allows for 1 mounting location for a specific screen size, and vice versa.

For example, with a 1.0 gain screen, it shows that for a 120" diagonal screen, the throw must be 14'8". If I adjust the throw to 15', it says the screen must be 123" diagonal.

I can't believe that mounting these projectors would be this limited. What am I missing?

Also, anyone have any experience with Jamestown or Monoprice screens? I would really like to have a 110" electic tab tensioned screen with between 12" and 18" drop. Any more drop will force the screen to be in front of my center channel. This has become quite a challenge to find a screen (without paying thousands). I might need to just buy a fixed screen for now and use the saved money for buying a bunch of extra bulbs. Heck, I'll probably need a new bulb about every 6 months if I only use the projector.

I have a 120" Jamestown white 1.2 gain and I can say it's extremely nice. No regrets at all.
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post #2453 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 10:22 AM
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Anyone else notice the pixel structure from as far back as 15 feet? It's bothering me now that I can see it from my normal seating distance. I'm using an Elite Cinetension2 motorized 2.35 screen and I guess since my previous projectors (Panasonic AE4000, 7000, 8000) all used smoothscreen I was never able to make out the pixel structure but now I'm able to from pretty far back. Maybe I should have gone with the JVC X55R with the 4k pixel shift. I really like the projector though; maybe I will just defocus the projector a tad until I can't see structure from my seat.

Sorry just venting, and looking to see if anyone else has good eyes like I do, I piss off my wife every time we watch a movie because I'm always noticing things.
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post #2454 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 10:32 AM
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If you can see screendoor from 15 feet away on a SXRD projector you must have a really big screen or there is something wrong with your projector. I have 20/20 vision and can not see any screendoor from about 12 feet and 100" screen, but with a LCD projector it is easy to see.

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post #2455 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post

Anyone else notice the pixel structure from as far back as 15 feet? It's bothering me now that I can see it from my normal seating distance. I'm using an Elite Cinetension2 motorized 2.35 screen and I guess since my previous projectors (Panasonic AE4000, 7000, 8000) all used smoothscreen I was never able to make out the pixel structure but now I'm able to from pretty far back. Maybe I should have gone with the JVC X55R with the 4k pixel shift. I really like the projector though; maybe I will just defocus the projector a tad until I can't see structure from my seat.

Sorry just venting, and looking to see if anyone else has good eyes like I do, I piss off my wife every time we watch a movie because I'm always noticing things.
Are you Superman?

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post #2456 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 11:49 AM
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Will getting a black ceiling and black curtains to put over the walls help with my black levels? The black bars on the top and bottom get crushed to a dark gray on anything but a pure black screen....
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post #2457 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 12:09 PM
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Are you Superman?

I don't know lol, maybe something else was going on in the picture, i didn't notice it before until last night from my seating distance which is over 15 feet away. I am going to watch some movies tonight and I will see if I'm still having the same issue.

Just though I'd ask, didn't know if it was normal or not. The panasonic's picture wasn't as sharp so i couldn't make out the structure.
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post #2458 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neokeelo View Post

Will getting a black ceiling and black curtains to put over the walls help with my black levels? The black bars on the top and bottom get crushed to a dark gray on anything but a pure black screen....

It will make it look a lot better even though technically the on/off would remain about the same. The on/off contrast remains the same only because the reflectivity is additive and self-contained as long as there is no ambient light in the room, hence that sounds confusing but all it really means is when you have white walls both your white peak and black floor is raised. It will in effect lower the absolute black floor (and lower white peaks), but it makes it easier for your eyes to focus in on the contrast.

Darkening the walls lowers the black level simply because there is no light reflecting off the wall to lighten up the room. It also greatly increases ANSI contrast to make both bright scenes and some mixed dark scenes look a bit better.

There has been quite a bit of confusion on the science behind this topic in the forums.

The misunderstanding is because even though it is true that the on/off contrast is measured the same regardless of the wall color, the way our eyes perceive that contrast is not. If your eyes see a "floating screen" surrounded by dark, the eye naturally picks up higher contrast. The confusion in the forum would have some believe that since it does not raise on/off, then blackening the walls does not help with dark scenes and only helps ANSI contrast. Although this is true from a measurement standpoint, it is not true from how our eyes interpret that contrast. Hence, the reason it helps with BOTH bright and dark scenes, is because the IRIS in our eye as well as the way we interpret light works better if only the object we are viewing (hence the screen) is lit up. So regardless of how it measures, it will help greatly to how your eye sees it. Also when the blacks in the room are near the levels that our eye expects a dark scene to be at (hence standing outside looking at stars), then that helps the effect as well.

The lesson to be learned is the way contrast is measured by an electronics device is not always exactly equatable to how the eye receives and processes that light. Hope that helps...
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post #2459 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jimjans View Post

Please help ..
¨
Has anyone experienced that the projector turns itself off without warning and leave no on fans and only the red standby light that shines ?

Are you hooked up through a UPS? It might be that your power level drops low enough the cause the projector to basically become 'unplugged' for a fraction of a second.
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post #2460 of 3445 Old 08-16-2013, 02:52 PM
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I have no ups but did not have these problems with the first HW50 which was replaced because of noise in 3D mode and have not had any problems with my other old projectors either ..
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