Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 88 - AVS Forum
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post #2611 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktoolsie View Post

Hmmm, I don't really see what you're gaining with that approach vs just using the internal emitter. The distance the IR signal has to travel (emitter->screen->glasses) is unchanged. So I can only assume any improvements are due to an increased signal strength of the external emitter.

My plan is to add an external emitter high above the screen, around where the back wall meets the ceiling, and to angle it so if faces slightly down. That way I roughly halve the distance the signal has to travel from emitter to glasses and eliminate any losses due to screen reflection. I won't know how this will work in practice until I get an external emitter.
Yes, theoretically, it would seem that mounting the emitter over or under your screen in the front would be better, but for whatever reason, for me, it was better when the emitter was in the back, bouncing off the screen. Plus, with the emitter above my screen, I could see the red strip of lights, which would've been annoying.

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post #2612 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 05:58 PM
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Strange - before you told me to do this, I gave it a try as a last ditch effort and I haven't had any sync issues since.

Thank you very much! This will now be the permanent home for the emitter.

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post #2613 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 06:00 PM
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Does having a 3D movie on automatically change the lamp mode from low to high and not give you the opportunity or menu option to change it from there?

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post #2614 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 06:07 PM
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looking to buy one of these
budget under $3000
possible?
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post #2615 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 06:35 PM
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post #2616 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobC1983 View Post

Does having a 3D movie on automatically change the lamp mode from low to high and not give you the opportunity or menu option to change it from there?

Yes, 3D is always in high mode.

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post #2617 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 07:30 PM
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Ok, thanks

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post #2618 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 09:49 PM
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I do not see that company listed as an authorized dealer: http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentDisplayView?hideHeaderFooter=false&storeId=10151&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&cmsId=sony_retailers

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post #2619 of 3515 Old 09-08-2013, 10:07 PM
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Does anyone know if there's a way to reposition the menu? Not the main menu, but the submenus, like the Reality Creation menu that pops up, or the Aspect display when you change aspect ratios?

I'm using it with an anamorphic lens that I leave in place when viewing 16:9 material (via squeeze mode) but the squeeze mode doesn't seem to reposition the menus within the squeeze area. The result is that many of the menus are fully or partially hidden by my side masking panels when I'm watching 16:9 material.

I cant be the only one with this issue. Anybody found a solution for this?
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post #2620 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 07:56 AM
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Sorry if this is a repost.

I have read through the manual but the projector is still not automatically going into 3D mode. I have to manually select 3D in the menu and I think it is simulated 3D that is being displayed.
I played a 3D blu-ray in Total Media Player 5 and Power DVD , it looks like the movie is in 3d but the projector's lamp mode does not go into high. Could it be a problem with my computer?
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post #2621 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 09:48 AM
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I think auto 3D only works with framepacked 3D. If it's side by side or over-under configuration you have to manually put it in 3D, selecting what type in the process. When you try to play the 3D, before doing anything, is it blurry like when you watch 3D without glasses, or is there duplicate pictures?

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post #2622 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 10:44 AM
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I have a question too - is the lamp more (high vs low) simply based on the picture mode?

Or is there a specific lamp setting you can go to in order to select high or low lamp?

- Klipsch RF-82 ii, RC-62 ii, RS-52 ii
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post #2623 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 11:02 AM
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Each picture mode has its own settings, which includes low or high mode. 3D picture modes are separate from those modes as well.

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post #2624 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

Each picture mode has its own settings, which includes low or high mode. 3D picture modes are separate from those modes as well.

Ok that's what I figured. So cinema 1 is high lamp, cinema 2 is low lamp?

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post #2625 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by baloo_btru View Post

Ok that's what I figured. So cinema 1 is high lamp, cinema 2 is low lamp?

I'm not entirely sure because it's been a while since I looked at the factory configs, since I run almost everything in low mode now with my HP screen. I manually adjusted all of the modes except the "bright" modes (TV, Cinema) to low to do that, and without resetting I'm not sure how it was before. I'd say they are both high by default, but you can verify in the cinema black menu.

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post #2626 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

I'm not entirely sure because it's been a while since I looked at the factory configs, since I run almost everything in low mode now with my HP screen. I manually adjusted all of the modes except the "bright" modes (TV, Cinema) to low to do that, and without resetting I'm not sure how it was before. I'd say they are both high by default, but you can verify in the cinema black menu.

Ok so I guess my question is how do you manually adjust the settings for lamp mode? I didn't see that setting though I didn't spend a huge amount of time looking for it.

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post #2627 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 01:34 PM
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Under the menu in the first screen Cinima Black Pro-> Lamp setting, you can also adjust the iris there if you want less or more light output.
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post #2628 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

I have my emitter stuck to the bottom of my ceiling mounted projector and have had zero sync issues with up to 8 pairs of glasses. I have the emitter pointed slightly down toward the seats. I don't think it's bouncing off the screen it all, but instead hitting the glasses directly from above and behind.

That doesn't make sense. IR is line-of-sight. It's not like RF signals which can travel through your body. Your head would prevent any line of sight path directly from the projector to your glasses. If your emitter is behind you and you're still getting sync, the signal must be reflecting off the screen (or something else in front of you) and that reflected signal is then hitting the glasses.
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post #2629 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by baloo_btru View Post

Ok that's what I figured. So cinema 1 is high lamp, cinema 2 is low lamp?
I too haven't been in the menu in a while, but from what I remember, there is actually a 3D mode and a 2D mode and you can pick whichever setting you want for each and it will remember. For example, while in 2D mode, if you want to use Cinema 1, you choose that setting and then can make modifications, and it will be stored under Cinema 1. Same for 3D. So in essence, you can use Cinema 1 for 2D and 3D, and have different settings. You do have to set them up the first time you go into that mode, so just because you set something in 2D Cinema 1, it will not "copy" over to 3D Cinema 1.

For my setup, I'm using Cinema 1 for 2D with just a few modifications and Bright Cinema for 3D, also with a few modifications.

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post #2630 of 3515 Old 09-09-2013, 02:53 PM
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Yep that's exactly what I do.

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post #2631 of 3515 Old 09-10-2013, 03:21 PM
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There seem to be plenty of HW50's available now, unlike in June, in case anyone is thinking of getting one. You won't have to wait ! smile.gif

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post #2632 of 3515 Old 09-10-2013, 08:47 PM
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My HW50ES is being installed next Tuesday with a 120" Elite Cinetension 2 screen. I'm also getting the screen accessory that acts like a trigger so the screen raises/lowers when the projector is powered on/off.

This is my first projector and I'm really hoping it will be everything that I've been dreaming of. I'm sure the projector will be good, I'm just not sure about the screen. I really hope I like it.

I was looking on the internet for replacement lamps and noticed Sony sells them for around $350. Anyone here have a reliable source to buy OEM lamps from that are cheaper?

Also, do lamps get more expensive as a projector model ages? Less supply and higher demand? Maybe I should buy 10 now.

Samsung TV - PN59D8000 - wall mounted
HW50ES projector w/electric Elite 120" ceiling mounted screen (drops in front of plasma)
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Finally got my cable box working in the theater room. Took me 2 min to do what Verizon wantedto charge me $93 for.

Anyway, it looks great! Tv looks better than I thought it would and is plenty bright even with the lights on. I can't wait to watch football next weekend.

When I was watching a recorded football game, the jersey colors looked a little over saturated. Is that something with the settings I should mess with?

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post #2634 of 3515 Old 09-11-2013, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweetmeat View Post

I was looking on the internet for replacement lamps and noticed Sony sells them for around $350. Anyone here have a reliable source to buy OEM lamps from that are cheaper?

Also, do lamps get more expensive as a projector model ages? Less supply and higher demand? Maybe I should buy 10 now.
In my experience lamps get cheaper. My last projector was a Sony HS20 that had a rated life of 2000 hours. I too thought about buying a backup lamp right away but decided to wait. It took me nearly 3.5 years to get to the 2000 mark and when I went to buy a new one (at about 1800 hours) I found them for half as what they were originally. The 50 comes with an additional lamp, so I think you would be OK to wait.

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post #2635 of 3515 Old 09-11-2013, 02:19 PM
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I was looking on the internet for replacement lamps and noticed Sony sells them for around $350. Anyone here have a reliable source to buy OEM lamps from that are cheaper?

You might try AV Science when you need a lamp - hint hint .rolleyes.gif
Quote:
Also, do lamps get more expensive as a projector model ages? Less supply and higher demand? Maybe I should buy 10 now.
a lamp warranty starts when you buy it - don't buy lamps you don't plan to use for a long time.

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post #2636 of 3515 Old 09-14-2013, 12:30 PM
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Okay guys need some help, How and where does the Darbee connect on my HWES50? I have the Blu-ray Dvd --> Receiver--> Lumagen-->Projector.. would I connect it to or after the lumagen?
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post #2637 of 3515 Old 09-14-2013, 05:01 PM
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Okay guys need some help, How and where does the Darbee connect on my HWES50? I have the Blu-ray Dvd --> Receiver--> Lumagen-->Projector.. would I connect it to or after the lumagen?

I connect the Darbee last in the line before the projector.
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post #2638 of 3515 Old 09-14-2013, 09:08 PM
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Okay guys need some help, How and where does the Darbee connect on my HWES50? I have the Blu-ray Dvd --> Receiver--> Lumagen-->Projector.. would I connect it to or after the lumagen?

After the Lumagen with the Lumagen scaling everything to 1080p.
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Played with my new HW50ES tonight and, wow, I'm very pleased! I just projected it on my dark grey flat painted wall and still thought it looked great! I'm sure it'll look even better with a real screen. Can't wait for the screen and projector to be installed.

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post #2640 of 3515 Old 09-15-2013, 01:32 PM
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My TMRPJ2 3D transmitter came in from Best Buy. ordered on Friday and it was here on Saturday.

First off: This thing is SMALL. I guess I was expecting more of a bar, but it's only about 4 or so inches long.. Anyway suffice to say, it can be hidden anywhere. I couldn't help think though that Sony is ripping us of by charging $80 for this thing. Then again compared to the $4K MSRP on the projector, I guess it's negligible, which is no doubt how Sony want us to think.

I mounted it on top of my center channel speaker, just back half an inch from the lip, and angled the emitter towards the seats. The emitter is completely hidden from sight. There's no red glow or anything distracting when it's in use. I couldn't figure out how to adjust the angle on the emitter itself, but there's no real need, as it comes with a stand that swivels up and down that provides for quite a range of adjustment. The emitter itself snaps on to the stand. It took me a couple of minutes to figure out how to snap it in, but that's only because I wanted to be sure not to break anything.

I really didn't want to run 20+ ft of Cat-5/Cat-6 cable along the length of my ceiling. Although, the flat black cable that I got off Amazon would have been fairly inconspicuous had I gone that route. Fortunately, I had the foresight to run 2 lengths of Cat-5 cable between my projector location and the utility room that runs along the side of my home theater and provides a home for some of my components. The cable was unterminated, but a trip down to Home Depot furnished 2 cat-6 jacks, which I attached to each end of the cable, via the supplied punch-down tool.I then used a short length of regular Ethernet cable to go between the projector and the Cat-6 jack at the projector end. At the end in the utility room, I attached the flat black 25ft cable and ran it to my room. It runs up the wall, behind one of the curtains that flank each end of my screen and then across behind the screen itself. there's a short length (maybe 6") of wire exposed to the view, but against the black back wall it is impossible to pick out even when the light are up full. So I plugged everything up, and fired up a 3D disk on my PS3. At first, NOTHING. The glasses obviously weren't receiving the sync signal. So I checked my wiring to the Cat-6 jacks. Sure enough, on one end I had the blue cable swapped with the white/blue-stripe cable. I swapped the cables around and tried again. This time everything worked perfectly. Previously I could get sync to my front row of seats about 11 ft back from the screen, but had only intermittent sync at my back row about 16-17 ft away (depending on recline) from the screen. Now, I had a rock solid signal EVERYWHERE. I even opened the door of my theater and backed out until I hit the ping-pong table in the adjoining game room. I still had perfect sync, even from a distance of about 26 ft back from the screen/emitter.

So, in conclusion, it was more than I wanted to spend but in the end it works perfectly. Now that the sync signal is not being pointed toward my IR receiver, I don't have any problem controlling my other components. I didn't check to see if i could still control the projector itself, but I'll do so next time I have something 3D fired up.
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