Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 91 - AVS Forum
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post #2701 of 3475 Old 09-24-2013, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ktoolsie View Post

You can add 3D depth from the 3-D menu which will only be active while you're in 3D mode (real or simulated). However, it comes at the price of increased cross-talk and I would advise against its use.

3D effect is more a function of source than anything else. Unless you watch the same material as you did at BB, your comparison is meaningless. I would guess that BB used carefully chosen 3D source material designed to accentuate the 3D effect.

Thanks for the info. You are probably correct about the demo video.

I will try and play with some settings and see how I like/dislike it.
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post #2702 of 3475 Old 09-24-2013, 03:06 PM
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Here's a quick question for the experienced guys. I have about 100 hours on my lamp now and would like to start calibrating my projector. I'm using a 2.35 screen and use a Lumagen to switch AR's quickly (zooming method), I would like to use the expensive Lumagen for more than just an AR changing device and I know you can calibrate it.

Sorry, so my question is what's the easiest solution for a beginner who has never calibrated anything? Calibrate the Lumagen and just adjust the brightness and contrast controls on the projector or do a full calibrations with multiple settings on the projector and nothing on the lumagen? I was thinking about doing SpectraCal's 2-week rental program that comes with a temporary auto-cal license to Calman and use the lumagen but I wanted a few opinions.

for anyone who didn't know SpectraCal's has a calibration rental offering (there's the C6 calibration rental and the i1Pro calibration rental for a little more)

thanks,
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post #2703 of 3475 Old 09-26-2013, 10:34 AM
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Anyone think there will be a price drop now that the HW55ES has been announced with a $4k MSRP?
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post #2704 of 3475 Old 09-26-2013, 01:01 PM
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Can you use Lumagen to zoom to 2.35:1 in a HW50ES?

I thought you could only use an A-Lens to go 2.35 from 16:9 in HW50ES
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post #2705 of 3475 Old 09-26-2013, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by smuggymba View Post

Can you use Lumagen to zoom to 2.35:1 in a HW50ES?

I thought you could only use an A-Lens to go 2.35 from 16:9 in HW50ES

Basically, I zoomed the projector out to 2.35 ratio using source material and set up the Lumagen for 2.35 output so material would completely fit my screen size. While the Lumagen can change the AR's from 16:9, 1.85, 2.35 and even NLS, it doesn't actually down zoom back to 16:9 when you press the button to use all 1080p pixels. My image is really a 2.35 image framed in a 16:9 projection with black bars that overshoot the screen on top and bottom, but I don't notice at all. To do a 16:9 image on the 2.35 screen you lose resolution because really you are projecting a 16:9 image that is shooting above and below the screen, but with CIH the lumagen recognized how large your 2.35 screen is really and essentially down converts a 16:9 image and puts it centered onto the screen, so now it really has black bars on all four sides of the image. So in this way of doing things 2.35 images will use more pixels then a 16:9 movie would on my screen. But I use the NLS function a lot and don't mind at all. The cost of Anamorphic lens are outrageous, I'm happy with the sharpness of the image. This is really my way of using a projector that doesn't have lens memory and being able to watch all different ratios.

Hope I stated it well, It's kind of confusing, and I don't really know how to explain it.
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post #2706 of 3475 Old 09-26-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

Anyone think there will be a price drop now that the HW55ES has been announced with a $4k MSRP?

Mike's prediction was the HW50 would drop the 3d glasses and extra bulb bundle and go below $3k, like the HW30 did last year.

There's no way the price stays the same as the new model. That just doesn't make sense.

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post #2707 of 3475 Old 09-26-2013, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by baloo_btru View Post

Mike's prediction was the HW50 would drop the 3d glasses and extra bulb bundle and go below $3k, like the HW30 did last year.

There's no way the price stays the same as the new model. That just doesn't make sense.

Yeah, he told me the same. Makes sense - sell base unit for similar "net" price, take out the extras to reduce price to customers.
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post #2708 of 3475 Old 09-26-2013, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by madurodave View Post

Yeah, he told me the same. Makes sense - sell base unit for similar "net" price, take out the extras to reduce price to customers.

Oh boy I hope that is the case. If so, I'm in.
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post #2709 of 3475 Old 09-27-2013, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post

Basically, I zoomed the projector out to 2.35 ratio using source material and set up the Lumagen for 2.35 output so material would completely fit my screen size. While the Lumagen can change the AR's from 16:9, 1.85, 2.35 and even NLS, it doesn't actually down zoom back to 16:9 when you press the button to use all 1080p pixels. My image is really a 2.35 image framed in a 16:9 projection with black bars that overshoot the screen on top and bottom, but I don't notice at all. To do a 16:9 image on the 2.35 screen you lose resolution because really you are projecting a 16:9 image that is shooting above and below the screen, but with CIH the lumagen recognized how large your 2.35 screen is really and essentially down converts a 16:9 image and puts it centered onto the screen, so now it really has black bars on all four sides of the image. So in this way of doing things 2.35 images will use more pixels then a 16:9 movie would on my screen. But I use the NLS function a lot and don't mind at all. The cost of Anamorphic lens are outrageous, I'm happy with the sharpness of the image. This is really my way of using a projector that doesn't have lens memory and being able to watch all different ratios.

Hope I stated it well, It's kind of confusing, and I don't really know how to explain it.

Is your screen 16:9?
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post #2710 of 3475 Old 09-27-2013, 07:26 AM
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But You still prefer the PS3 glasses over the monsters ones?
I prefer the Monster glasses - they're more comfortable and the color is the best, but the wife likes the PS3 glasses. Lately I've been using the PS3 glasses and they're starting to grow on me.

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post #2711 of 3475 Old 09-27-2013, 07:40 AM
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Is your screen 16:9?

No, 2.35 screen. I wanted to fill the width of the room.
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post #2712 of 3475 Old 09-27-2013, 07:54 AM
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Dmoneyman,

Since no other has responded as yet to your calibration question.

ISF protocols would have you calibrate the PJ first with a source such as a bd player or sig gen. ( the Lumagen set to passthrough )

Then, do any final adlustments with the Lumagens excellent controls. The cms controls Lumagen offers may well allow for better color point calibration, but the sony does allow for color management.

Anyway, hope this helps some.

Doug k

Imaging Science Foundation Technician ( Almost Retired )
www.6500kcalibrations.com

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post #2713 of 3475 Old 09-27-2013, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post

Dmoneyman,

Since no other has responded as yet to your calibration question.

ISF protocols would have you calibrate the PJ first with a source such as a bd player or sig gen. ( the Lumagen set to passthrough )

Then, do any final adlustments with the Lumagens excellent controls. The cms controls Lumagen offers may well allow for better color point calibration, but the sony does allow for color management.

Anyway, hope this helps some.

Doug k

Thanks,

I did the basics with a WOW disk, now I guess I have to read the Lumagen manual to learn how to put it into passthrough mode and make sure the WOW settings are still correct. After that I will rent a calibration tool from spectracal and use the Lumagens 125 point autocal feature.

Just wanted to make sure I was on the right track before I actually rented the tools and wasted my time and money.


Also, does anyone else see the Reality Creation controls as too harsh even at min? I seem to get alot of noise to where it bothers me and I just turn it off. Instead I'm using MPC-HC on my HTPC with Madvr with a combination of Lanczos+AR/Jinc+AR. I'm also using the Sharpen Complex 2 shader which seems to perform a similar sharpening techique as RC. I get almost just as sharp of an image this way but without as much RC noise that happens when I turn it on. I've got my Darbee set to 40% HD.
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post #2714 of 3475 Old 09-27-2013, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post

Thanks,

I did the basics with a WOW disk, now I guess I have to read the Lumagen manual to learn how to put it into passthrough mode and make sure the WOW settings are still correct. After that I will rent a calibration tool from spectracal and use the Lumagens 125 point autocal feature.

Just wanted to make sure I was on the right track before I actually rented the tools and wasted my time and money.


Also, does anyone else see the Reality Creation controls as too harsh even at min? I seem to get alot of noise to where it bothers me and I just turn it off. Instead I'm using MPC-HC on my HTPC with Madvr with a combination of Lanczos+AR/Jinc+AR. I'm also using the Sharpen Complex 2 shader which seems to perform a similar sharpening techique as RC. I get almost just as sharp of an image this way but without as much RC noise that happens when I turn it on. I've got my Darbee set to 40% HD.

Curious - how well do the Disney WOW disks work? I would like to calibrate my 50ES as well as some flat panel tvs, without spending a whole bunch of money.

Thanks for any help!
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post #2715 of 3475 Old 09-27-2013, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by madurodave View Post

Curious - how well do the Disney WOW disks work? I would like to calibrate my 50ES as well as some flat panel tvs, without spending a whole bunch of money.

Thanks for any help!

I'd say it's a pretty good disc but it probably won't go into as much depth as a professional calibrator would. To be honest I'm not sure, I'm no expert I bought it because I saw the disc on Amazon for pretty cheap one day. Maybe someone else can help answer your question.
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post #2716 of 3475 Old 09-28-2013, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madurodave View Post

Curious - how well do the Disney WOW disks work? I would like to calibrate my 50ES as well as some flat panel tvs, without spending a whole bunch of money.

Thanks for any help!



I have seen many hw50 and a tip to you is use high lumen modus and cinema1 or reference and use the wow disk for contrast and brightness only. then with d65, rec709 on the hw50 but that i think you know.
You get a very god picture. the Sony hw50 have a very god startpicture out of the box in high then with cms, colours. Greyscale is ok.
If you do this you have a great picture. but still to get the best out of your hw50 use a profesional Calibrator with good calibration tools.
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post #2717 of 3475 Old 09-29-2013, 08:02 PM
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I have seen many hw50 and a tip to you is use high lumen modus and cinema1 or reference and use the wow disk for contrast and brightness only. then with d65, rec709 on the hw50 but that i think you know.
You get a very god picture. the Sony hw50 have a very god startpicture out of the box in high then with cms, colours. Greyscale is ok.
If you do this you have a great picture. but still to get the best out of your hw50 use a profesional Calibrator with good calibration tools.

Thanks for the pointers!
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post #2718 of 3475 Old 09-30-2013, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by madurodave View Post

Hopefully!

I watched Star Trek Into Darkness 3D last weekend. I thought it was ok, not great. Seems a little too fake (yes, I know it is fake) to my eyes. My wife actually got a headache (some people experience this).

I was surprised when I went to Best Buy and looked at a LG 3D tv demo. That had passive glasses. A lot of pop on that tv.

I am hoping it is either the movie or maybe I have to trweak my settings some? I gave it a "B" for the effects.

This particular movie looks awful in 3D...I good movie to see for 3D quality on this projector would be the new Spiderman movie...It looks incredible!...I watched the new Star Trek in 3D and was totally disappointed. I actually preferred it in 2D.
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post #2719 of 3475 Old 10-01-2013, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by aries1210 View Post

This particular movie looks awful in 3D...I good movie to see for 3D quality on this projector would be the new Spiderman movie...It looks incredible!...I watched the new Star Trek in 3D and was totally disappointed. I actually preferred it in 2D.

It actually had rave reveiws for the 3D from the sources I read.

I went back and watched a few scenes again and thought it was not too bad - could have been lighting.

I watched Iron Man 3 in 3D but lost sync 1/2 way through. Is this what happens if the glasses charge gets low? I did not see any fast blinking lights on the glasses frame.
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post #2720 of 3475 Old 10-01-2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by madurodave View Post

It actually had rave reveiws for the 3D from the sources I read.

I went back and watched a few scenes again and thought it was not too bad - could have been lighting.

I watched Iron Man 3 in 3D but lost sync 1/2 way through. Is this what happens if the glasses charge gets low? I did not see any fast blinking lights on the glasses frame.

The glasses will lose sync if you move your head from side to side....otherwise, yeah, your batteries are probably low and need a charge. I must have got a bad copy then of startrek 3D because it looks terrible and hurts my eyes to watch this one particular movie...has a lot of ghosting too.
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post #2721 of 3475 Old 10-01-2013, 01:38 PM
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My experience was that sync reliability was a function of distance from the screen, at least while I was using the inbuilt 3D sync emitter. I could get reliable sync at about 11ft from the screen but at 16ft, sync would drop out from time to time, enough to completely ruin the 3D experience. Even at the front row, sync would drop out when I turned my head too much away from the screen, although it recovered so quickly as not to be a real issue.

Sync reliability is also a function of your room reflectiveness. My projector is mounted above the screen, and I'm pretty sure that having the emitter in line with screen, as opposed to the (black) wall above it would improve reliability. I did experiment with placing 2 sheets of tin-foil just above my screen (same height as the built-in emitter), each piece about 20" in length. Sure enough I was now able to get reliable sync at my back row. The foil was not visible once the light were turned down for movie watching but obviously they spoil the decor when the lights are turned up all the way. Adding an external IR emitter solved my problem in a more elegant fashion. The external emitter is FAR stronger than the built in unit. i was able to get rock solid sync from 25 ft back and was able to remove the foil sheets. I can even turn my head away from the screen and have the sync persist. I didn't like having to spend the extra $, but I'm very happy with the results.
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post #2722 of 3475 Old 10-01-2013, 02:09 PM
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Has anyone figured out if the new VPL-600ES has less brightness in 3D because it lacks the lamp pulsing? I'm considering the move to the 600ES from my
50ES but would be disappointed to loose any brightness.
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post #2723 of 3475 Old 10-01-2013, 02:31 PM
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Hi, I'm curious to know if most people keep their electric tensioned screen up or down when not in use. I've been keeping mine down because I didn't want to cause any more wear and tear on the motor than what's needed, but I just now thought that I might be damaging the screen somehow. I'm looking to people who have much more experience with projector's/screens to help me! Thanks!

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post #2724 of 3475 Old 10-01-2013, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aries1210 View Post

The glasses will lose sync if you move your head from side to side....otherwise, yeah, your batteries are probably low and need a charge. I must have got a bad copy then of startrek 3D because it looks terrible and hurts my eyes to watch this one particular movie...has a lot of ghosting too.

I think part of the eye strain is the lens flares Abrahms uses. Those bright flashes do a number on my eyes.
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post #2725 of 3475 Old 10-01-2013, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ktoolsie View Post

My experience was that sync reliability was a function of distance from the screen, at least while I was using the inbuilt 3D sync emitter. I could get reliable sync at about 11ft from the screen but at 16ft, sync would drop out from time to time, enough to completely ruin the 3D experience. Even at the front row, sync would drop out when I turned my head too much away from the screen, although it recovered so quickly as not to be a real issue.

Sync reliability is a function of your room reflectiveness. My projector is mounted above the screen, and I'm pretty sure that having the emitter in line with screen, as opposed to the (black) wall above it would improve reliability. I did experiment with placing 2 sheets of tin-foil just above my screen (same height as the built-in emitter), each piece about 20" in length. Sure enough I was now able to get reliable sync at my back row. The foil was not visible once the light were turned down for movie watching but obviously they spoil the decor when the lights are turned up all the way. Adding an external IR emitter solved my problem in a more elegant fashion. The external emitter is FAR stronger than the built in unit. i was able to get rock solid sync from 25 ft back and was able to remove the foil sheets. I can even turn my head away from the screen and have the sync persist. I didn't like having to spend the extra $, but I'm very happy with the results.

Good to know. How much is the external transmitter?

I don't need one yet but when I set up my full theater I will.
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post #2726 of 3475 Old 10-01-2013, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by madurodave View Post

Good to know. How much is the external transmitter?

I don't need one yet but when I set up my full theater I will.

I have the same issue with the built in IR transmitter and will eventually go with the external as well, unless, I buy the 600ES which has a RF transmitter.
The external transmitter is also supposed to eliminate the high pitched noise that comes from the internal IR transmitter too. Some people notice this, others
do not. I notice this only when seated under or just behind the PJ and during quiet scenes. Most of the time the movie soundtrack drowns out the problem.
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post #2727 of 3475 Old 10-02-2013, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post

I have the same issue with the built in IR transmitter and will eventually go with the external as well, unless, I buy the 600ES which has a RF transmitter.
The external transmitter is also supposed to eliminate the high pitched noise that comes from the internal IR transmitter too. Some people notice this, others
do not. I notice this only when seated under or just behind the PJ and during quiet scenes. Most of the time the movie soundtrack drowns out the problem.

So it the extrenal transmitter from Sony also?

I guess I should ping Mike from AVS for info.
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post #2728 of 3475 Old 10-02-2013, 09:39 AM
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Is anyone running the 50ES on a scope screen? I'm wondering how big of a pain in the a$$ it is to manually zoom the lens when switching aspect ratios.
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post #2729 of 3475 Old 10-02-2013, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

Is anyone running the 50ES on a scope screen? I'm wondering how big of a pain in the a$$ it is to manually zoom the lens when switching aspect ratios.

I have a CIH screen setup and run 16:9 @ 95" diagonal, for scope it is 2.35:1 @ 120" diagonal. Takes me all of 10 seconds to adjust and refocus now that I am use to it. I usually set everything up prior to company arriving so I' not fiddling with it
before the movie.
I did have a JVC prior that did have the lens memory, that was indeed easier and I miss it ONLY because it is a creature comfort/gadget . To be honest I bet that by the time you make the switch on the remote with any lens memory option you will spend
about the same amount of time doing it manually. This certainly only applies to my setup that has a ceiling mounted PJ easily accessible between rows one and two in my little theater. If your PJ is mounted high on a ceiling or way back in the rear then
the lens memory would be a bonus.
It is only a nuisance if you switch back and fort a lot. If you watch a lot of either format then this is not a big deal. I'm currently dong 50/50 of the two mentioned formats and it is not a big deal.
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post #2730 of 3475 Old 10-02-2013, 10:20 AM
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Is anyone running the 50ES on a scope screen? I'm wondering how big of a pain in the a$$ it is to manually zoom the lens when switching aspect ratios.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post

I have a CIH screen setup and run 16:9 @ 95" diagonal, for scope it is 2.35:1 @ 120" diagonal. Takes me all of 10 seconds to adjust and refocus now that I am use to it. I usually set everything up prior to company arriving so I' not fiddling with it
before the movie.
I did have a JVC prior that did have the lens memory, that was indeed easier and I miss it ONLY because it is a creature comfort/gadget . To be honest I bet that by the time you make the switch on the remote with any lens memory option you will spend
about the same amount of time doing it manually. This certainly only applies to my setup that has a ceiling mounted PJ easily accessible between rows one and two in my little theater. If your PJ is mounted high on a ceiling or way back in the rear then
the lens memory would be a bonus.
It is only a nuisance if you switch back and fort a lot. If you watch a lot of either format then this is not a big deal. I'm currently dong 50/50 of the two mentioned formats and it is not a big deal.
Same here - doing the poor man's scope. Most of my material is Scope so it's not a big deal, and the wife and I are getting used to watching most of our TV zoomed in anyway. At this point I really only change it for gaming and sports, and when I do that, it's 10-20 seconds at the most. I've found that I don't even need to touch the focus ring, but your results may vary. I was looking at either getting a lens or a Radiance, but don't really see the need to spend the $$ now.

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