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post #2161 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

It's part of the instructions/tips that Lumagen provide: They recommend that you adjust the 100% whitebalance using the display's controls (RGB gains specifically, though it might involve chosing/trying different modes). You also need to adjust the brightness and contrast in the display too (all can be done using Lumagen test patterns either using the remote or by selecting the 'signal generator' option (which needs to be on for autocal anyway).
There shouldn't be any need to adjust the low end RGB (also it's better not to raise these controls above 0 on JVCs as it raises the black level) and if the display has a CMS, then probably best left to a 'neutral' setting or 'off'. What Zombie and I were discussing about which starting mode to use is so that you have a colour gamut that is slightly oversaturated and with enough luminance so that the Lumgen can 'trim' the colours back as it can't 'add' to the saturation.
Hope that helps. smile.gif

Toe. What that means is to put a 100 IRE screen or window up and use the RGB gain controls in the projector (there are two sliders in the projector menu for each color, use the second one for each which sets the high end or gain). Some use a 80% pattern when they don't have a Lumagen for multipoint gray scale (which is not the same as CMS 7 point or 125 point which are of course not used for color temperature) and then they use say a low end at 20%. The idea is to get a straight line for color temperature across the entire gray scale 0 to 100) and the more points the straighter the line will be. The line should be at 6500K. But since you will be using a multipoint color temp or gray scale calibration instead of two point, use the projector gain (and not the cut) internal RGB controls to set the color temp at 6500K at 100%. The Lumagen/Chromapure will do the rest after of course you self set contrast and brightness and also, which Kelvin left out, sharpness on the projector controls. Sharpness should be set to none which may not be the same as 0 on the slider. You put up a line pattern and turn the control so you just stop any halo which is the artifact of ringing. Turn it up and then back down so any ringing is gone.

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post #2162 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Stage is the profile for the 55 that has most of the colors a bit oversaturated. thanks for all the info so far, I am looking forward to seeing how it looks on the RS55. I'm also in the process of blacking out my ceiling, so it should look great when it's all done.
so now your getting in on the auto-cal action too? smile.gif good deal, curious to hear your results. btw, I just got the buttkicker + custom plates for my Berkline chairs. I can't wait to install these and try them out.

I get my butt kicked here enough. I do not want my chairs to kick or shake me. I find the butt kicker effect to be rediculous .Its a butt vibrator. If you want a roller coaster effect when you are watching action, go for one of those systems which change the elevation of the chair support points changing the orientation front back, left right. It won't hang you upside down though, but perhaps that's coming. smile.gif

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post #2163 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Toe:
You have the Benq w7000 for 3D now, how you like it?
I haven't decided what I'll do yet, honestly I've been in no hurry for 3D because not that much content I want to see. Leaning towards the Mits, but waiting on Z's final assessments. I'm letting the content build and not buying 3D anymore for a while so I can watch it all when I get a good 3D projector. I don't agree with some others that 3D always looks fake, though it can, but I've seen it get very close to looking out a window (more so on Epson than JVC). The JVC 3D is only good in dark scenes due to contrast (and sometimes not even then), otherwise it chokes. Actually some of the IMAX 3D was bareable on the JVC on a brand new lamp (and a couple animated flicks), but now it's totally a joke. Even if JVC improved 3D quite a bit, to me I highly highly doubt the new JVC's would be "enough better" in 3D to care. You need a DLP (or the Epson) for 3D, but even the Epson isn't totally clean and no FI either. I also worry that when the lamp gets older on the Epson it might ghost more (people claim Panny does this some too, and we know JVC does).

My Epson 6010 definitely ghosts more than when the lamp was new. But I'm at close to 1,800 hours and the lamp is dying. It started to flicker in eco mode at about 1,600-1,700 hours. I'm running on high lamp now, which is still good for 2D and doesn't flicker. I plan to change it at about 2,000 hours, maybe earlier, and I expect to be mostly ghost free again. I'll report back after the New Year.

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post #2164 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Blank button A/B comparison works ok, but it does add a tiny hit to contrast (it's do-able with JVC's only because of small amount of light due to black levels, but with most projectors it messes it up due to too much light). Method works for JVC's when comparing bright scenes, but not as well with dark scenes (still a bit too much light pollution).

When I A/B a DLP, I have to use the lens cap or put a piece of cardboard in front of the lens to block the light out temporarily...

it's very minimum on the JVC's and was fine for the purpose of comparing the e-shift techniques in bright scenes. With all the other projectors, I definitely have to cover each lens. I have a dark piece of cardboard and some blue painters tape that does the job.

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Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I get my butt kicked here enough. I do not want my chairs to kick or shake me. I find the butt kicker effect to be rediculous. If you want a roller coaster effect when you are watching action, go for one of those systems which change the elevation of the chair support points changing the orientation front back, left right. It won't hang you upside down though, but perhaps that's coming. smile.gif

I know it's ridiculous. that's why I want it. I have 4 subs hooked up now (3 in the front, 1 in the back). A little chair shaking during explosions in the TDKR's is going to be ok. cool.gif
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post #2165 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Stage is the profile for the 55 that has most of the colors a bit oversaturated. thanks for all the info so far, I am looking forward to seeing how it looks on the RS55. I'm also in the process of blacking out my ceiling, so it should look great when it's all done.
so now your getting in on the auto-cal action too? smile.gif good deal, curious to hear your results. btw, I just got the buttkicker + custom plates for my Berkline chairs. I can't wait to install these and try them out.

I've been meaning to set up some Buttkickers in my home theater. A mini-review would be great!

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post #2166 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 10:52 AM
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Thanks, you confirmed my suspicion that pretty much all (or at least most) non-DLP projectors ghost more as the lamp ages. I've even noticed on my friend's 5010 which probably has 500 hours by now or so it seems to have a tiny tiny bit more ghosting than when it was new (although barely different, just seems to have a tiny bit more).

My favorite thing about the Epson is the HUGE lumen range you have with the different modes. I wish some DLP's had that range, but so far not really (w7000 is really bright though, just harder to get dark enough at first if too bright). ND filters are ok, but it'd be nice not to mess with it. Mits is good but only 900 lumens in 3D is a bit of a downer, although I suspect some lamp variance and maybe some getting 1000+ (but who knows). I really want 1000+ lumens in 3D minimum because I'll eventually go with a bigger screen this next year if I can. I have mainly stuck with a small screen because of lumens issues on projectors as lamps age (I like a really bright image). I don't always like it super bright, but I like having the option.


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post #2167 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Toe:
You have the Benq w7000 for 3D now, how you like it?
I haven't decided what I'll do yet, honestly I've been in no hurry for 3D because not that much content I want to see. Leaning towards the Mits, but waiting on Z's final assessments. I'm letting the content build and not buying 3D anymore for a while so I can watch it all when I get a good 3D projector. I don't agree with some others that 3D always looks fake, though it can, but I've seen it get very close to looking out a window (more so on Epson than JVC). The JVC 3D is only good in dark scenes due to contrast (and sometimes not even then), otherwise it chokes. Actually some of the IMAX 3D was bareable on the JVC on a brand new lamp (and a couple animated flicks), but now it's totally a joke.

The 7000 I have here has a small (but noticeable) focus uniformity issue, and possibly a lamp issue (this could just be something I was seeing in the transfers though......not sure yet) so I have only spent about 6 hours with it. I have an advanced replacement on the way from BenQ and might get it this week still, but if not sometime next week. Having said that, I can say from my limited time that the 3d experience overall is a major upgrade over the 40/45! The COMPLETE lack of ghosting cant be stressed enough as far as how important this is for the 3d experience in general. Even though I would assume the actual depth and pop out is the same between the 7000 and my JVCs, I get the impression that both are more noticeable on the BenQ simply due to the lack of artifacts that detract from the experience. Even if ghosting does not bother you, I still firmly believe it has a significant impact on the 3d experience in general. You get the perception that both depth and pop out are more intense when you have no artifacts like ghosting and flicker to deal with. I am sure some could guess what disc I threw in first.........Patagonia. cool.gif To see this disc 100% ghost free was almost unbelievable. I did not think it was possible, but there it was and it was fantastic!

Flicker is another thing. Watching something like Toy Story 2 in 3d the other night which I checked out for about 30 minutes or so (I must have threw in 10 discs over the ~6 hours just checking out various things that I am familiar with) which would have noticeable flicker on the JVCs was so much easier to watch and the 3d was much more impressive in general.

FI in 3d...............this is everything I had hoped it would be and I would not buy another 3d projector without this! Having a low, med and high setting is nice and for something like the IMAX docs, or anything animated, the FI on the BenQ takes the 3d experience to a whole new level. Watching Grand Canyon for example I would watch ~30 seconds with FI off and then go back and watch the same segment with FI on and it was much more convincing and engaging for me with FI (I like medium the best from what I have seen so far). I dont use this for film as I have never liked what it does to the film look. Popping in Avengers the other night I could immediately tell FI was on and had to turn it off which made everything look right again as far as films go. The native DLP motion is very good to my eyes for film based content.

A few other observations, this thing is BRIGHT! Too bright actually for me with 2d which I never thought would be the case. I know this can be tamed in the service menu which I will experiment with when I get the replacement and I am guessing I can tame this to a good level for what little 2d I will watch (still going to use my RS45 for 2d movies as I much prefer it for that from what little I have seen of the 7000 so far).

SHARP! This 7000 is very sharp (at least the parts that were uniform on this particular sample which the replacement should fix) and a noticeable step up from my 45 which I always thought was very sharp. I actually prefer the look of the 45 as far as this goes for 2d movies, but for 3d I really like the added sharpness for whatever reason (?).

LOUD! Man, this unit is noticeably louder vs the 45 in low lamp, and high lamp is louder still of course. This wont be an issue for me under normal viewing when I have my sound cranked up, but watching the other night I had the volume way down from normal at -25 or so from reference (I usually watch movies at -1 which will easily drown out the fan noise) and it was loud. Also, I assume I am hearing what is the iris at work (?). The iris on this particular unit is pretty damn noisy, but again this will be a non issue I am sure when I am watching as I normally do with the audio cranked up.

I have a few little complaints, but nothing major and I am waiting on my replacement to see if some of my issues were due to this particular unit. Overall though, so far this 7000 is living up to my expectations as a 3d only unit which is saying a lot as my expectations were HIGH. cool.gif Significant improvement over the 40/45 I have owned and it cant be stressed how much a complete lack of ghosting, flicker and FI does for the 3d experience. I only use FI for animated films and documentaries, but over 2/3 of my 3d collection is either animated or documentaries so for me, this is a significant feature and something I would not be willing to do without in a 3d projector from this point forward.

I will report back when I get the replacement though and update my feelings/findings as things could change once I spend more time with it. So far so good though overall.

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post #2168 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

I've been meaning to set up some Buttkickers in my home theater. A mini-review would be great!

When I found out that StargateCinema sold custom metal brackets for a fast install, I couldn't resist. I know people that have these and love them when they are tuned up right. My bass in the room sounds very good after 2 months of tweaking and doing the 'floor crawl' to find the right spot for my subs. I think this will be a blast. I'll post some feedback once I get them installed.

That amp is much heavier than it looks.

buttkicker.jpg
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post #2169 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

Toe. What that means is to put a 100 IRE screen or window up and use the RGB gain controls in the projector (there are two sliders in the projector menu for each color, use the second one for each which sets the high end). Some use a 80% pattern when they don't have a Lumagen for multipoint gray scale (which is not the same as CMS 7 point or 125 pint which are of course not used for color temperature and then they use say a low end at 20%. the idea is to get a straight line for color temperature accross the entire gray scale 90 to 100) and the more points the straighter the line will be. The line should be at 6500K. But since you will be using a multipoint color temp or gray scale calibration instead of two point, use the projector gain (and not the cut) internal RGB controls to set the color temp at 6500K at 100%. The Lumagen/Chromapure will do the rest after of course you self set contrast and brightness and also, which kelvin left out, sharpness on the projector controls.

Thanks for the great explanation Mark. I have the sharpness set right now off the AVS709 disc, but will double check before doing the auto cal. I might have more questions once I dive into things, but it seems pretty straightforward so far. Looking forward to it!

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post #2170 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:07 AM
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I forgot to mention one thing about the 7000.........I did not see a single rainbow in the ~6 hours I have watched 3d so far. cool.gif I have not owned a DLP in about 8 or 9 years, but the Toshiba RP set I had was rainbow city for me to the point that I had to get rid of it. So far, this is a total non issue for me at this point which I am thrilled about! I have never seen RBE in 3d on the Acer either though, so maybe the DLP tech is at a point for me now where this is not an issue (I hope!).
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Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I get my butt kicked here enough. I do not want my chairs to kick or shake me. I find the butt kicker effect to be rediculous .Its a butt vibrator. If you want a roller coaster effect when you are watching action, go for one of those systems which change the elevation of the chair support points changing the orientation front back, left right. It won't hang you upside down though, but perhaps that's coming. smile.gif

I agree Mark depending on how the BK is implemented. If you do set it up right though and get it dialed in properly with your sub, it can be a very enhancing experience which feels like a natural extension of your sub. The problem is most people turn them up to high vs the sub, cross them over to high or just dont mount them optimally to begin with. All this makes a major difference as far as how effective and natural the experience is. A properly implemented BK system though is amazing and I would not want to do without mine at this point (and I run 4 SVS subs on top of the 2 BKs!).

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post #2171 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:14 AM
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Does the JVC RS-4810 exhibit the louder fan noise level on High Lamp Mode like the JVC RS-46 does in relation to the JVC RS-45? confused.gif


...Glenn smile.gif
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post #2172 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I spent some time looking at different scenes in 'The Dark Knight Rises' and comparing the RS55 (E-shift 1) and the RS4810 (E-eshift 2) in a direct A/B. This a great film transfer to BD.
The 'blank' button on the JVC remote makes it a perfect way to very quickly toggle back and forth between both images. You just blank the one projector and then at seated position, I can go back and forth at the press of a button.
Some observations:
  • The Eshift-2 with the setting on FILM and default values is very close to MPC @ 0-1. When I switch it to dynamic mode, it reminds me of the MPC @ 2-3 setting which is a little more aggressive with the sharpening, but this movie can easily handle it.
  • If anyone is curious, the Darbee looks as good with E-shift 2 as it did with the original. It adds it's own unique changes to the image, so that when used moderately (~30%) it's a great extension of e-shift and makes the overall PQ look great.
  • After a close up look, i'm big fan of e-shift 2, but only because it reminds of e-shift 1. The extra adjustments are great for tweaking. I think the other modes are a little too aggressive for my large screen and close seating distance, but they may help if you are sitting farther away.
  • My RS55 is a bit sharper than this RS4810. The RS46 sample I have is also sharper than the RS4810. Only noticeable in a direct A/B, but there will likely always be some sample variance. Now none of you can have my golden sample RS55, it's camping out for a little while longer. cool.gif
  • Of the current projectors, the 4810's 2D PQ is very hard to beat if you love watching quality 2D Blurays.

What is your overall impression of RS55 2D vs x55 2D (neglecting sharpness differences)?
I suspect the RS4810 is a bit punchier because of its higher ANSI CR but the RS55 has the advantage in on/off CR.

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post #2173 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Toe View Post


I am sure some could guess what disc I threw in first.........Patagonia. cool.gif To see this disc 100% ghost free was almost unbelievable. I did not think it was possible, but there it was and it was fantastic!

Flicker is another thing. Watching something like Toy Story 2 in 3d the other night which I checked out for about 30 minutes or so (I must have threw in 10 discs over the ~6 hours just checking out various things that I am familiar with) which would have noticeable flicker on the JVCs was so much easier to watch and the 3d was much more impressive in general.

FI in 3d...............this is everything I had hoped it would be and I would not buy another 3d projector without this! Having a low, med and high setting is nice and for something like the IMAX docs, or anything animated, the FI on the BenQ takes the 3d experience to a whole new level. Watching Grand Canyon for example I would watch ~30 seconds with FI off and then go back and watch the same segment with FI on and it was much more convincing and engaging for me with FI (I like medium the best from what I have seen so far). I dont use this for film as I have never liked what it does to the film look. Popping in Avengers the other night I could immediately tell FI was on and had to turn it off which made everything look right again as far as films go. The native DLP motion is very good to my eyes for film based content.
A few other observations, this thing is BRIGHT! Too bright actually for me with 2d which I never thought would be the case. I know this can be tamed in the service menu which I will experiment with when I get the replacement and I am guessing I can tame this to a good level for what little 2d I will watch (still going to use my RS45 for 2d movies as I much prefer it for that from what little I have seen of the 7000 so far).

yes the W7000 is a 3D Patagonia eating machine. The FI is very good on the W7000, comparably to the FI on the Sony. The HC8000 with the high speed glasses can easily go without the FI, it's very good with motion handling. it's a shame it doesn't have the lens shift we need. I would definitely consider this projector otherwise for flicker free, ghost free 3D.

what glasses are you using?
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post #2174 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I forgot to mention one thing about the 7000.........I did not see a single rainbow in the ~6 hours I have watched 3d so far. cool.gif I have not owned a DLP in about 8 or 9 years, but the Toshiba RP set I had was rainbow city for me to the point that I had to get rid of it. So far, this is a total non issue for me at this point which I am thrilled about! I have never seen RBE in 3d on the Acer either though, so maybe the DLP tech is at a point for me now where this is not an issue (I hope!).
I agree Mark depending on how the BK is implemented. If you do set it up right though and get it dialed in properly with your sub, it can be a very enhancing experience which feels like a natural extension of your sub. The problem is most people turn them up to high vs the sub, cross them over to high or just dont mount them optimally to begin with. All this makes a major difference as far as how effective and natural the experience is. A properly implemented BK system though is amazing and I would not want to do without mine at this point (and I run 4 SVS subs on top of the 2 BKs!).

Could be I never sat in an installed and properly set one. I've tried it at shows.

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post #2175 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I get my butt kicked here enough. I do not want my chairs to kick or shake me. I find the butt kicker effect to be rediculous .Its a butt vibrator. If you want a roller coaster effect when you are watching action, go for one of those systems which change the elevation of the chair support points changing the orientation front back, left right. It won't hang you upside down though, but perhaps that's coming. smile.gif



"It won't hang you upside down though, but perhaps that's coming. smile.gif"

Yeah, along with temperature change, moisture and smells! rolleyes.gif

Come on now, you know they have to drum up new and creative ways to separate us from our wallets! wink.gif


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post #2176 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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What is your overall impression of RS55 2D vs x55 2D (neglecting sharpness differences)?

I suspect the RS4810 is a bit punchier because of its higher ANSI CR but the RS55 has the advantage in on/off CR.

I think the overall PQ is about the same if I take out the slight sharpness difference. I am not really seeing the 4810 as any punchier than the RS55. My lamp is still very good in the RS55, i've run it on high altitude since it was new (~166 hours now) and the light output is comparable at equal iris values.

I have to spend more time looking at the darker scenes with -11.

I haven't seen another e-shift JVC since getting my RS55 in January. I would say the sharper the lens is without e-shift, the better it will look with it on.
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post #2177 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

yes the W7000 is a 3D Patagonia eating machine. The FI is very good on the W7000, comparably to the FI on the Sony. The HC8000 with the high speed glasses can easily go without the FI, it's very good with motion handling. it's a shame it doesn't have the lens shift we need. I would definitely consider this projector otherwise for flicker free, ghost free 3D.
what glasses are you using?

I only have the TrueDepth glasses right now, but I also have a pair of ZD201's on the way. Curious to compare them, but so far I really like the TrueDepth's. Actually, the TrueDepth are the most comfortable 3d glasses I have used to date, but I have only experienced 4 different kinds. The original JVCs, the 103s, whatever my friend has for the Acer (?) and these TrueDepth.

JVC 3D: Been there, done that, bought a DLP
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post #2178 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baumann View Post

Does the JVC RS-4810 exhibit the louder fan noise level on High Lamp Mode like the JVC RS-46 does in relation to the JVC RS-45? confused.gif
...Glenn smile.gif

yes, the 46/4810 fan is louder than the 45/55 in high lamp.
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post #2179 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Thanks for the great explanation Mark. I have the sharpness set right now off the AVS709 disc, but will double check before doing the auto cal. I might have more questions once I dive into things, but it seems pretty straightforward so far. Looking forward to it!

Wow a lot of posts in a short time...I set the sharpness on my X35 using the AVS patterns and found that pretty much anything above +2 and I could see the beginnings of ringing, so that's probably why I forgot to mention it (and detail enhance is at 0 as it effects test patterns if set any thing above 0 on my example). Initially I'd just left it at 0/0 based on past experience as I used to run my HD350 set to 0/0 as well, so I've never been a fan of some of the 20/30 settings that some used on previous JVCs.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #2180 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:34 AM
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Hi,

What is the name of the disc with 3d test patterns Zombie uses?
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post #2181 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I think the overall PQ is about the same if I take out the slight sharpness difference. I am not really seeing the 4810 as any punchier than the RS55. My lamp is still very good in the RS55, i've run it on high altitude since it was new (~166 hours now) and the light output is comparable at equal iris values.
I have to spend more time looking at the darker scenes with -11.
I haven't seen another e-shift JVC since getting my RS55 in January. I would say the sharper the lens is without e-shift, the better it will look with it on.
So, basically very similar PQ but $3K less expensive......thanks.
FWIW, I haven't had my RS55 for a couple of months but my impression is that the x55 has a noticeably punchier image but, at times, I think I've noticed the lower on/Off CR of the x55.

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post #2182 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Wow a lot of posts in a short time...I set the sharpness on my X35 using the AVS patterns and found that pretty much anything above +2 and I could see the beginnings of ringing, so that's probably why I forgot to mention it (and detail enhance is at 0 as it effects test patterns if set any thing above 0 on my example). Initially I'd just left it at 0/0 based on past experience as I used to run my HD350 set to 0/0 as well, so I've never been a fan of some of the 20/30 settings that some used on previous JVCs.

I have found the same thing. One of the first things I did when I got my 40 was turn detail enhance down to 0 as it was creating noticeable noise in the picture.

Thanks for the sharpness tip. I actually have it at +3 right now I believe which might be too high from the sounds of it. I will definitely check on this before running the auto cal.

JVC 3D: Been there, done that, bought a DLP
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post #2183 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Geof View Post

So, basically very similar PQ but $3K less expensive......thanks.
FWIW, I haven't had my RS55 for a couple of months but my impression is that the x55 has a noticeably punchier image but, at times, I think I've noticed the lower on/Off CR of the x55.

imo, any obvious differences will likely be due to sample variances from what I've seen so far in this direct A/B. This RS46 I have is nearly perfect, an absolute golden sample for convergence and focus. If it was an option, I'd pay a fair sized premium for one like this RS46 or similar to my RS55. Once in a while some luck sneaks in when those panels and lens are put into position.

i'm guessing next year there will have to be a full redesign. the average 3D output now is ~1000 lumens from the competing models. I expect this will go up again next year since the 5020 is cranking out ~1400 with reasonable color in 3D.
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post #2184 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I only have the TrueDepth glasses right now, but I also have a pair of ZD201's on the way. Curious to compare them, but so far I really like the TrueDepth's. Actually, the TrueDepth are the most comfortable 3d glasses I have used to date, but I have only experienced 4 different kinds. The original JVCs, the 103s, whatever my friend has for the Acer (?) and these TrueDepth.

the truedepths are great, affordable glasses. The ZD201's are smaller, so i'm curious what you think overall. They do perform well, but I don't think they hold the sync as well as the TD's.

I need some tips on setting up the buttkicker, i'll send you a pm later.
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post #2185 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

If it was an option, I'd pay a fair sized premium for one like this RS46 or similar to my RS55. Once in a while some luck sneaks in when those panels and lens are put into position.
i'm guessing next year there will have to be a full redesign. the average 3D output now is ~1000 lumens from the competing models. I expect this will go up again next year since the 5020 is cranking out ~1400 with reasonable color in 3D.
An option like that would be quite popular I think. I know I'd pay more for guaranteed great convergence along with sharp optics. I think many of us would.

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post #2186 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

the truedepths are great, affordable glasses. The ZD201's are smaller, so i'm curious what you think overall. They do perform well, but I don't think they hold the sync as well as the TD's.
I need some tips on setting up the buttkicker, i'll send you a pm later.

Happy to help however I can. smile.gif Just shoot me a PM when/if you need to.

HA! As soon as I made that last post, the ZD201s show up at my door. Right off the bat, I can say that I like the general shape/feel of the TrueDepths better. These ZD201s have a different shape lens that is a bit questionable. Also, for ~$110...........no storage bag? eek.gif Curious to see how they perform though which might change my mind. I also like the USB recharge factor of the TrueDepth better.

That was one other thing I forgot to mention is I was having some sync issues off/on during my 3d session the other night with the TrueDepth's/7000. I just had to tilt my head down then up and it would sync back in, but a bit annoying.

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post #2187 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 01:04 PM
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Zombie, forgetting about your golden RS55 for a minute. If JVC where to send you a projector straight from their factory, would you pick an RS55 or an RS4810?
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post #2188 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by soupdragon View Post

Zombie, forgetting about your golden RS55 for a minute. If JVC where to send you a projector straight from their factory, would you pick an RS55 or an RS4810?

I wouldn't really user either for 3D, so likely the RS55 mainly because of the dual iris which I run @ -11 most of the time.

2D looks excellent on both projectors, I would prefer either to the RS45/RS46 because of the e-shift in my particular setup.
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post #2189 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 01:44 PM - Thread Starter
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this is interesting. I didn't notice this until I looked up close. It seems like e-shift2 modes creates some distortion in the menu fonts when compared to e-shift 1.

RSS55 on top, RS4810 on the bottom in all photos. I removed the color so it's easier to see.

E-shift is off in this photo.


e-shift3.jpg

e-shift2.jpg

e-shift4.jpg

before anyone freaks out, I am inches from the screen. you can't really see this from a few feet away and it doesn't show in real content. I just thought it was interesting since I expected them to look identical.
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post #2190 of 8765 Old 12-20-2012, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthieu View Post

Maybe my post was not as clear.
The Air intake and exhaust of the Sony HW50 and JVC RS46 machines, are both on the front?
Can I place both machines in a cabinet with only an open front?
I also see airvents on the back of both machines, but they might be used for electric cooling and not for the lamp..

The Sony HW50 vents a lot of hot air out of the front left exhaust, if you're standing in front of the projector facing the lens (so you could think of it as the front right vent from the projector's perspective). I feel much more hot air coming out of that than the front right (or front left, projector perspective).

You *need* to keep a good amount of free space in front of & to the sides of this projector. Sony recommends ~12 inches of free space on either left/right side of the projector.

I found that when I had <6 inches of free space between the right side of the projector (projector's perspective) and a wall, I actually saw Schlieren patterns (I think that's the right term... basically changes in density of air due to heat) causing wavy motion across the right side of the image. As soon as I turned an external fan on in front of the projector (cooling), the wavy motion went away. Naturally, I didn't want to run the projector in this setting, so I made sure I had the proper placement with free space on either side of the projector. No more wavy artifacts. Solid image.

So... proper ventilation is definitely important & shouldn't be overlooked.

Here's a video I made showcasing the problem, and showing how the fan helped:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Ny8fmacU0g

Cheers.
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