Projector Mini-Shootout Thread 2013-2014 - Page 76 - AVS Forum
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post #2251 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Yes, I m thinking about swapping my HW50 to the HC8000DBL. The flicker on the HW50 drives me crazy. That s the only reason for the switch.

The HW50 has excellent 2D and a great DI. You could pick up an inexpensive 3D DLP just for 3D viewing?
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post #2252 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post

Hi Kelvin,
You can also profile the i1d3 with diffuser facing the projector to itself facing the screen without the diffuser, that way you will have the higher brightness AND you will take into account the screen.

I asked about this but as I have the enhanced i1D3 I got confussed as to which settings to select when setting up the meter as I have the profiling built into the options for the meter and have to chose facing screen or facing projector. As it's getting OT for this thread, feel free to PM me if you can help.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #2253 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 07:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

I asked about this but as I have the enhanced i1D3 I got confussed as to which settings to select when setting up the meter as I have the profiling built into the options for the meter and have to chose facing screen or facing projector. As it's getting OT for this thread, feel free to PM me if you can help.

no way, manni's info is priceless. post for all to see... smile.gif
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post #2254 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

The HW50 has excellent 2D and a great DI. You could pick up an inexpensive 3D DLP just for 3D viewing?
yes. but a cheap 3d dlp will lack contrast for sure so no decent black levels
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post #2255 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

yes. but a cheap 3d dlp will lack contrast for sure so no decent black levels

fair enough point, the HC8000 is definitely looking good with contrast in 3D. Comparable to the 5020 and the HW50. I haven't tried it with the regular glasses, so I don't know if the 'high speed' glasses are part of the equation as to why it looks so good. They are cool glasses, pitch black before turning them on.
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post #2256 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 07:38 AM
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Is the hc8000 as sharp as the Benq w7000?


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post #2257 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Is the hc8000 as sharp as the Benq w7000?

good question, I haven't had a chance to A/B these 2 projectors yet. I only watched 3D and it looked pretty sharp. It's funny how I had to set it up. It's sitting on the armrest between 2 of my Berkline seats. So I am literally sitting next to the projector with the heat blowing on my arm.
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post #2258 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Yes, I m thinking about swapping my HW50 to the HC8000DBL. The flicker on the HW50 drives me crazy. That s the only reason for the switch.
In that case, I need to checkout that HC8000DBL too.
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post #2259 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

There is a part of the top of the Epson 5010/5020 that gets quite warm, almost too hot to touch when it's running. I'd want as much air as possible over the top of the case for the heat to disperse in this particular area.
I wouldn't put the Epson in that surrounding.

I had no trouble with the Epson and I had it for a year.
I do have a lot of space above the projector in that cabinet.
The cabinet is closed about 30 cm above that projector.
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post #2260 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 08:21 AM
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I'm also interested in seeing more Mits HC8000 observations.
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post #2261 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 09:31 AM
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Zombie, do you still plan on using the Panamorph Cinevista with one of these projectors? I have a HW50 on the way and I'm thinking of moving to a Seymour 2:35 AT. Just curious.
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post #2262 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjcow View Post

Hi - Finally had my 6020 installed today. Extremely happy with it, great convergence (that I can tell), colors, brightness... love it.
I would very much appreciate if anyone can help me out with some basic brightness/contrast settings, to me the image is fantastic and don't want to mess it up, so if any of you experts can give me some pointers (specially those with a 5020/6020) I will appreciated.
Thanks and Merry Christmas!!!

Go to this thread and download the free disc and instructions. Contrast and brightness are easy to set. To do a basic color & tint adjustment, you'll also need a set of blue glasses. You can get those from the THX website pretty cheap. To go beyond that you'll need to invest some money & time.
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post #2263 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

The HW50 has excellent 2D and a great DI. You could pick up an inexpensive 3D DLP just for 3D viewing?

zombie what about the performance of hw50 @3d ? are you happy with it? is another glassess more successfull than sony s glasses? thank you
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post #2264 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpimpin View Post

Zombie, do you still plan on using the Panamorph Cinevista with one of these projectors? I have a HW50 on the way and I'm thinking of moving to a Seymour 2:35 AT. Just curious.

definitely in the next few days.
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post #2265 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

The 100% saturation points that I say posted had oversaturated starting points for red and blue but slightly understaurated green. But it real life that would not result in visable color error because the content we watch doesn't have any 100% saturated green. After doing 7 point on my 1000ES after 200 hours and then checking 7 or so points within the triangle, I found no errors using a very expensive and calirated meter. Tom and I decided that there was no need to run 125 point on the 1000ES. 4000 or so points? I really doubt anything one would notice would chsnge. I do own an EE color box as well as Spectracal but noway am I going to spend anytime or wear using autocal and the box to calibrate 400 plus points.
I saw the hobbit in 3D 48FPS.. Tom thought the 3D on my 1000ES looked better. more detail, brighter, and sharper. I thought the benefit of 3D over 2D in the Hobbit was marginal. At least most of the 3D was only near field with rare instances of fake mid distance 3D. i would really like to see 2D with 48fps.

I saw it as well, and after a few minutes and for most of the movie the "Soap Opera Effect" didn't bother me nearly as much as I thought it would. It was really noticeable at the very start, and also in a few scenes where things were clearly CGI from a great distance (worg riders on the horizon in large field, and bridge falling scene in the mountain). With that said, I felt the scenes with just Bilbo and Gollum looked amazing. I was very impressed with those scenes in particular.

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post #2266 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Yes, I m thinking about swapping my HW50 to the HC8000DBL. The flicker on the HW50 drives me crazy. That s the only reason for the switch.

Hi Sander,

Also have the HW50 on top of my list and the flicker annoys me too.
Probably going to watch mainly 2d and the 3d is more of a bonus, I'm wondering how the 2d of the HC8000 stands up to the HW50.

Thought I read somewhere that the HC8000 isn't available in Holland.

That's it man, game over man, game over!
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post #2267 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Yes, I m thinking about swapping my HW50 to the HC8000DBL. The flicker on the HW50 drives me crazy. That s the only reason for the switch.

I read that when you jump to high lamp mode the flicker dies. this is right?
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post #2268 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

I read that when you jump to high lamp mode the flicker dies. this is right?

Some (new) lamps flicker in 2d and 3d and it seems that you can "fix" this by running the lamp in high mode for a few hours.
Sander is talking about the flicker in 3d, this is not related to the flicker you mean.

That's it man, game over man, game over!
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post #2269 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Flash3d View Post

Some (new) lamps flicker in 2d and 3d and it seems that you can "fix" this by running the lamp in high mode for a few hours.
Sander is talking about the flicker in 3d, this is not related to the flicker you mean.

ah oke i got it so flicker in 3d cant fix via an firmware update or some calibration settings or another glass?
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post #2270 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

yes. but a cheap 3d dlp will lack contrast for sure so no decent black levels

With the glasses out, the 'dark grey' blacks will get darker and therefore look blacker on a DLP so the black floor will look pretty credible. Doesn't make the overall contrast any better of course but don't 3D glasses mean the maximum contrast is limited to only 1000:1, even with a hight contrast projector? I'm not sure but thats my understanding so I wouldn't get to hung up on contrast numbers for 3D - the super solid DLP 3D images are much much better than a higher contrast projector with crosstalk IMO.
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post #2271 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 01:36 PM
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This HC8000 isn't reviewed here already?
I'm a bit lazy to read ALL 77 pages.
I think this is the fastest growing Topic ever.
When I sneeze, I have to read 5 pages already.
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post #2272 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I did a brief review on 3D a few pages ago and will get to some of the 2D impressions this weekend.
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post #2273 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 02:11 PM
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Ahh.
Thanks for all the work you do.

You were planning to post all the 'in between' reviews on page 1.
Do you find time for that any soon.
With a fast growing topic like this it will come in handy.
I know 3D on a DLP is looking much better.
I'm curious how this particular beamer will perform in 2D as well.
DLP lookis poping and also sharp, so if black level is positive as well,...

On the other hand,... if you where impressed when you saw it, you would have screamed it out loud right away, so that is telling a lot already. wink.gif
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post #2274 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm a little late to the party with the Mini 3D, but I was waiting until the 125 point autocalibration feature was released on Chromapure before getting one. I already obsess over the projectors built in color controls so if I adjusted the mini 3D manually, i'd be working on it for countless hours.

The mini 3D connects to my laptop via a USB to 9 pin serial adapter. Any of these inexpensive connectors with the prolific chipset will work fine.

After some basic setup in Chromapure, I adjusted the brightness and contrast and set the greyscale @ 100 IRE. The built in pattern generator is very welcome as it makes getting measurements and moving on much quicker than using a calibration BD.

It's finally time to run the auto-cal. Here is a cool part... I did it from my computer on the other side of the room. I RDC'd into the laptop that has Chromapure, the Mini 3D and the Display 3 all connected to one another. If Tom is reading, I'll admit I stared at every single reading output from the beginning to the end.. fascinated as the software kept trying to get the dE's below 1.75 (which is adjustable).

The results are excellent. it would take unaccountable hours of doing this manually to achieve what can be done in a relatively short period of time. This is really a revolution in home theater calibration. Tom's software is intuitive and well thought out in regard to calibration work flow. He and the guys from Lumagen deserve some major credit here for making this quality level of calibration available for home use.


Obviously these are just screenshots, but believe me when I say this looks really good in person. This took the PQ of this 5020 to another level.

The 2 colorful shots below are Step up 3D. I haven't calibrated it yet in 3D but it looks surprisingly good through the glasses. These are left eye 3D shots.

radiance2.jpg

radiance3.jpg

radiance4.jpg

radiance5.jpg

radiance6.jpg

radiance7.jpg

radiance8.jpg

radiance9.jpg

radiance10.jpg

radiance11.jpg

radiance12.jpg

radiance13.jpg

radiance14.jpg

radiance15.jpg

radiance17.jpg
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post #2275 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 02:48 PM
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I guess the calibration software is what I'll be getting next spring/summer...thanks zombie!

What is the list of your calibration equipment used? I know I could ask in the calibration thread but this is easier. Above photos look good from my monitor.

Thanks
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post #2276 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 03:05 PM
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Wow! Very, very nice. I can't wait to see how well that setup can dial in a 5020 with an LPE filter.
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post #2277 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 03:43 PM
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It's pretty cool isn't it Zombie? smile.gif I have some Chromapure reports that show I was up until 3-4am doing manual calibrations a year or two back, though I got much quicker as time went on (using the Chromapure gamma window in real time helped cut the time down). These days, that knowledge comes in handy for the initial set up pre calibration, but then I just let the computer do the work. cool.gif Then the important bit: I just sit back and watch the projector and enjoy the view. smile.gif

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #2278 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 03:51 PM
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So Zombie, for a novice like me who would want to calibrate it myself. I all I need is the chromapure with the autocalibration update and the Mini3d?
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post #2279 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 03:58 PM
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This might be off topic but since Zombie posted his impressions of the auto calibration using CP and a mini3D, I thought I would ask this novice question from a potential future calibrator for personal use only. I'm interested in doing auto calibrations on my Sony HW50ES and a 60" Pioneer Kuro. If I understand how the auto calibrations work with the mini3D and CP (I guess CalMan v5 as well), the Lumagen must reside between the source and display for the calibration profile to be used. My problem is that I won't be able to locate the Lumagen between both devices so I'm wondering what my best hardware/software option would be to perform calibrations on both displays if only one gets the Lumagen? I don't want to be a professional calibrator so the auto calibrations have an obvious allure with somewhat less of a learning curve. Just curious what others would do in my situation since I'm new to calibrations and obviously haven't lived through "doing it the hard way" (since usually if you don't understand how to do it the hard way then using an automated version could cause other issues). Thanks for any replies.
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post #2280 of 8715 Old 12-22-2012, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabalocker View Post

I guess the calibration software is what I'll be getting next spring/summer...thanks zombie!

What is the list of your calibration equipment used? I know I could ask in the calibration thread but this is easier. Above photos look good from my monitor.
Thanks

This package has all the components I'm using.

Quote:
Originally Posted by me23 View Post

So Zombie, for a novice like me who would want to calibrate it myself. I all I need is the chromapure with the autocalibration update and the Mini3d?

you should have a basic understanding of how to adjust the brightness, contrast and grayscale, but these are easy to learn with this kit. The better the image looks when you start, the better it will be after the 125 pt calibration.
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Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

I don't want to be a professional calibrator so the auto calibrations have an obvious allure with somewhat less of a learning curve. Just curious what others would do in my situation since I'm new to calibrations and obviously haven't lived through "doing it the hard way" (since usually if you don't understand how to do it the hard way then using an automated version could cause other issues). Thanks for any replies.

The most obvious errors are usually greyscale errors. Face tones don't look right, etc. You can start with a calibrated Display 3 meter and Chromapure standard. Then use the displays built in controls to tame down the colors and adjust the gamma, etc. You can do wonders with just this setup vs. stock settings. The Lumagan + 125 pt autocal takes it up a few notches that would require a significant amount of time to try and match by doing it manually.

The HW50 responds well to basic calibration. If you upgrade to the lumagen / auto cal setup at a later time, let's be honest, the Home Theater projector is more important to look great than the TV. cool.gif
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