Projector Mini-Shootout Thread 2013-2014 - Page 94 - AVS Forum
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post #2791 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

The Sony can not make the image small enough for a 120 inch d 1.78 at a throw of 20 ft.

Can somebody please tell me if i understand correct

Cant i have a 120inch screen for sony hw50es at a throw of 6 meters? ( i mean the distance from proj to screen is 6 meters) I thought that i can have a screen 130inch from 6 meters.
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post #2792 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sonichart View Post

Is the Rubbermaid stand a permanent fixture in your theater? I'm looking at shelf-mounting either an HW50 or RS-4810 (leaning toward RS-4810) and not really crazy about ceiling mounting as I've had poor experiences with ceiling mounts in the past (image squareness). I was looking at a black Intermetro wire-shelf as a possible alternative.
Regardless, I intend to use a fixed A-lens in my setup and would like to leave open the possibility of having a 2nd projector dedicated to 3D only. I figure the wire shelving is the best and most sturdy option.

http://www.menards.com/main/storage-organization/garage-outdoor-organization/freestanding-storage/5-shelf-industrial-steel-shelving-with-contemporary-design/p-1798460-c-12652.htm

That is much sturdier than the plastic rubbermaid stuff, is reasonably priced and should be local to you. I currently have 2 projectors and an A-Lens on that model shelving unit. As a bonus its black metal finish blends very well with equipment racks. At least it does with my Omnimont rack.. Menards also has a smaller version of that shelving unit with 18" shelves but 24" depth is better suited for projectors.
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post #2793 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 01:53 PM
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http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=100095394&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC%2d%5f%2dSearchPLPHorizontal1%2d1%2d%5f%2dNA%2d%5f%2d100095394%2d%5f%2dN#.UOdN3ay3PFo

Just so anyone who is looking for the perfect adjustable shelf or running a multiply projector set up like I am. Was only $60 last month when I bought it. I have the shelf Zombie has but I needed something to put my jvc and benq in the right position to get 2+ gain on my HP screen
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post #2794 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 02:26 PM
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Hello all ,

I'm hoping someone here (anyone) will be able to answer a question that's been nagging me for a while and I can't seem to find the "25 words or less" version .
I've seen numerous Posts where the topic of Min Zoom and Max Zoom versus Contrast have come up but I simply don't have a good grasp of what this does or means .
I'll assume that if you have a short throw from your PJ to your screen then you're not zooming , depending on your screen size , and if you have a long throw to your screen then you're not zooming at all , again depending on your screen size .
I guess what's confused me is the terminology , short throw , max zoom , long throw , min zoom , etc. and how all this affects the ultimate measured Contrast Ratio or is it ANSI Contrast Ratio ?

Why does this question belong in this thread you ask ? Well I guess if the distance and zoom affect the final contrast Ratio measured values then Zombie's values will reflect his personal HT setup and not mine , yes ?
If so , then shouldn't all Reviewers report these criteria when reporting "ultimate" numbers for a given PJ ?

Scott..................confused.gif

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post #2795 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 02:44 PM
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Its simple, max throw distance = max contrast (ANSI, I believe) = min brightness. And vice versa.
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post #2796 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

Can somebody please tell me if i understand correct
Cant i have a 120inch screen for sony hw50es at a throw of 6 meters? ( i mean the distance from proj to screen is 6 meters) I thought that i can have a screen 130inch from 6 meters.

The reported maximum throw for the HW50 is 2.13 by most accounts. For a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen from 6 meters (19.685 feet) the HW50 can not make the image small enough so you will have the edges of the image outside the screen. From 6 meters a 130" diagonal screen should work just barely.

Math: 120" = 104.6 wide screen. 104.6 * 2.13 = 222.8 inches is the farthest back you can put the projector = 18.56 feet.

Hope my math is right. Having said all that I measured the maximum throw ratio on my HW50 to be more like 2.16 but that still will not work for a 120" diagonal screen from 6 meters.
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post #2797 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 02:46 PM
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Reviews such as Cine4home usually do quote the zoom used, the iris, lamp power and calibration mode used.


Long throw: If the projector is a long way from the screen then you don't need to use the zoom (so the size of the image coming out of the projector is smaller). This mode tends to give more contrast and less brightness. This gives max on/off contrast, not so sure how or if it effects ANSI contrast.

Short throw: If you put your projector close to the screen you have to zoom to make the image fill the screen (so the size of the image coming out of the projector is larger which covers more area of the lens) then this tends to be brighter and have less contrast.

On the Sony this change is less significant (but it has less zoom range than the JVC). On the JVC the difference can be quite significant. Having demo'd an X55 at full zoom I was a little disappointed with the contrast, but took a gamble as my set up is long throw and thankfully the gamble paid off as it has much more contrast in my set up than I saw when it was demo'd.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #2798 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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all the lumen output numbers i've posted were with the projectors @ 17 feet from the 142" 16:9. Coderguy can crunch the numbers for his calculator.

@ fingersdlp - yes, definitely turn off the e-shift for checking convergence and focus. the Darbee and RC won't affect the 1:1 but would turn them off anyway to check.

Kelvin - thanks for the tips via PM. I am not sure if it's because I tweaked the meter sample rate or because of the light scatter that was hitting the meter (pre-black ceiling) but I am getting much better results with the gamma and greyscale autocal. I'm suspecting the light reflecting from the white ceiling was causing an issue.

I only did a quick G/G auto-cal so I'll run it through a full calibration tonight to see if my results are better.
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post #2799 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Reviews such as Cine4home usually do quote the zoom used, the iris, lamp power and calibration mode used.
Long throw: If the projector is a long way from the screen then you don't need to use the zoom (so the size of the image coming out of the projector is smaller). This mode tends to give more contrast and less brightness. This gives max on/off contrast, not so sure how or if it effects ANSI contrast.
Short throw: If you put your projector close to the screen you have to zoom to make the image fill the screen (so the size of the image coming out of the projector is larger which covers more area of the lens) then this tends to be brighter and have less contrast.
On the Sony this change is less significant (but it has less zoom range than the JVC). On the JVC the difference can be quite significant. Having demo'd an X55 at full zoom I was a little disappointed with the contrast, but took a gamble as my set up is long throw and thankfully the gamble paid off as it has much more contrast in my set up than I saw when it was demo'd.

Wonderful. I'm gonna have to run mine at full zoom lol
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post #2800 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Reviews such as Cine4home usually do quote the zoom used, the iris, lamp power and calibration mode used.
Long throw: If the projector is a long way from the screen then you don't need to use the zoom (so the size of the image coming out of the projector is smaller). This mode tends to give more contrast and less brightness. This gives max on/off contrast, not so sure how or if it effects ANSI contrast.
Short throw: If you put your projector close to the screen you have to zoom to make the image fill the screen (so the size of the image coming out of the projector is larger which covers more area of the lens) then this tends to be brighter and have less contrast.
On the Sony this change is less significant (but it has less zoom range than the JVC). On the JVC the difference can be quite significant. Having demo'd an X55 at full zoom I was a little disappointed with the contrast, but took a gamble as my set up is long throw and thankfully the gamble paid off as it has much more contrast in my set up than I saw when it was demo'd.

Excellent , thank you !
I wonder if anyone has ever tried recording the Contrast values at different zoom levels ? Could be difficult to reproduce as the Zoom isn't a precise action , but a min/max zoom value for a given PJ might indicate some useful data .
This would have to be a "facing the PJ" measurement and not off the Screen I assume ?

Scott..............

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post #2801 of 9087 Old 01-04-2013, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post

What consumer grade meters are you guys using/ recommending for calibration? I was thinking of the ColorMunki Display (colorimeter not spectrometer) or the i1 Display Pro.
Can you use the ColorMunki Display or i1 Display Pro with the updated Color HCFR software or other software other than the one it comes with? Just that I'm used to Color HCFR and have heard that Xrite's software wasn't all that great which is why I bought the Display LT over the old Display Pro, because the meters were the same save for the fact that the Pro came with software, which was purported to be poor, hence why there was no reason to spend the extra money on the Pro.
I assume the same goes for the ColorMunki Display and the I1 Display Pro, meaning the meters are the same but that the advanced software of the Pro over the basic soft of the ColorMunki equates to the difference in price?
Lastly, any other meters I should consider for calibrating a projector?
I enjoy calibrating displays and found the process of learning about it to be extremely enjoyable, so I'm not considering getting it professionally done. I expect that the experience of calibrating my new PJ to be more of the same.
Thanks in advance for your help, and thanks Zombie for the thread and work.

Hi, just to let you know, there's a whole forum area specifically for discussing calibration. Just a suggestion, you might get more responses over there....
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post #2802 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_R_K View Post

Excellent , thank you !
I wonder if anyone has ever tried recording the Contrast values at different zoom levels ? Could be difficult to reproduce as the Zoom isn't a precise action , but a min/max zoom value for a given PJ might indicate some useful data .
This would have to be a "facing the PJ" measurement and not off the Screen I assume ?
Scott..............
Cine4home has done that on many occasions already.
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post #2803 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 02:02 AM
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@ Zombie. No problem, glad to be of help. You've also reminded me that I need to do something about my ceiling which is matt white eek.gif and I can't be bothered faffing about with my black cloth 'tent' every time I watch a film, so something a bit slicker is planed. These projectors work best in a black pit, so I need to do what I can to achieve that.

@Blackdevil77 Why do you say that you are going to have to run at full zoom? Is your screen particularly large and/or low gain? Just seems a shame to lose a good chunk of the contrast that these models have.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #2804 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 02:22 AM
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@Zombie10k: Which 3D glasses would you recommend for the Sony HW50ES in regards to comfort, price and quality?
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post #2805 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Gagorian View Post

@Zombie10k: Which 3D glasses would you recommend for the Sony HW50ES in regards to comfort, price and quality?

+1 and...

...are there RF glasses for Sony 50, assuming that a RF emitter should be used? (I don't think it would be possible to plug it directly into the Sony, perhaps there exists a RF emitter with a IR receiver that turns IR light into RF waves).

thanks

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post #2806 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 04:41 AM
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If you search the HW30ES threads, you will find that you can easily build an adapter plug, easier if you use a wall wart PS instead of running the power for the emitter off the Sony.

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post #2807 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 08:06 AM
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Ok, thanks.

I found this:

http://www.monsterproducts.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=5938&id=9132

The RF transmitter can be fed with 3D sync signal either through a VESA connector (if the display has a VESA port) or through a IR receiver (so obtaining a IR/RF converter). Good.

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post #2808 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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there was a custom cable that some folks were making for a direct connection, but you can also use the IR sender of the HW50 and the IR receiver on the Monster vision 3D transmitter.

You'll definitely need to power the transmitter with a USB charger. blackberry / cell phone chargers work great and are inexpensive.


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post #2809 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 11:27 AM
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I just ordered the 3D - Bee (Diamond), Too late to change my mind I'll just have to trust Joe's endorsement and hope this thing actually works. Actually, I'm really looking forward to experimenting with it.
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post #2810 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 12:27 PM
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Regarding the recent posts on throw/zoom, can you not compensate for a short throw./long zoom set up by closing down the lens a few stops to reduce brightness and increase contrast, or am I missing something?confused.gif
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post #2811 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 05:03 PM
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People sometimes wonder just how sharp a well-converged JVC really is compared to one of the sharper DLP's.

I did this comparison here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1449695/comparison-of-4-projectors-viewsonic-pro8200-vs-benq-w7000-vs-jvc-rs-45-vs-mits-hc4000#post_22788009



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for both one projector or dual stacks

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post #2812 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 06:03 PM
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Zombie,

Maybe you can help out here once again-- If one is only looking for superior 2D performance, does it make sense to go with a 4810 or an RS55? Because right now, I'm failing to see a good reason to go with the newer model over last years model.

Thanks
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post #2813 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonichart View Post

Zombie,

Maybe you can help out here once again-- If one is only looking for superior 2D performance, does it make sense to go with a 4810 or an RS55? Because right now, I'm failing to see a good reason to go with the newer model over last years model.

Thanks

I think some of the decision comes down to sample variance. My specific RS55 looks better than the 4810 I reviewed for 2 main reasons - focus and convergence. they are A++ on my specific RS55 but around a B- on the 4810 I saw. It wouldn't have been too obvious without a direct A/B, but when I see those fine details in a close up comparison, it makes me appreciate a quality copy of any projector. This is one of the reasons RS35 owners still love their projectors. Quality units that were hand picked with top shelf parts for those who were willing to pay the extra $$ for the last ounce of quality.

We saw several RS60 and RS65's with focus and convergence issues. This would have been difficult for me to swallow the difference in cost vs. the RS55 if there was no guarantee of the same quality that RS35 owners received.

I would say if you can find a good used RS55/X70 and are focused strictly on 2D quality, there isn't much to miss vs. choosing the new 4810. Every time I tweaked the 'eshift-2' to my liking, I ended up with the same exact PQ appearance as the original e-shift with MPC set @ 2 or 3. Otherwise it's very easy to 'overcook' the new e-shift2 settings. (similar to Sony's reality creation @ factory settings).


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post #2814 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 07:04 PM - Thread Starter
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for those following my blackout project, I received a small truckload of the black 'ProtoStar' material that is often talked about in the HT build threads.

http://www.protostar.biz/flock.htm

I have a ton of the Dalite 'Pro-trim' which is an excellent material used to cover the Cinema Contour frames. I was saving this for making masks for my 16:9 Dalite CC. I tried some of it on my white ceiling grid, but the problem is it's too 'thick'. So it stands out a bit vs. blending in with the new flat tiles I am using.

The good news is, the ProtoStar material is just as black and also thinner as well. Plus it's significantly cheaper.

This is a direct flash photo, so you can see some of the texture. This stuff is about as black as it gets.

Dalite trim on left, ProtoStar on right.

prostar.jpg

Thinner = better for my particular need to black out the grid.

prostar1.jpg


almost done.. everything is coming out better than I expected.. very classy looking. cool.gif

ceiling.jpg

ceiling1.jpg


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post #2815 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 09:37 PM
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Beautiful Zombie! cool.gif That protostar is great stuff. I have a sheet of it here from about 5-6 years ago that I am finally going to put to use below my screen to cover up the red flash from the 7000. It looks like it will be just dark enough from my tests to do the trick.

I am loving the 7000/45 combo! Got the lens nice and secure finally on the 7000 as it survived all 4 Underworld movies AND The Art of Flight without moving much over the last 3 nights. cool.gif All 5 of these discs are big LFE titles with Underworld Awakening being a MASSIVE LFE title. If it can survive UA, it can survive anything........that disc is absolutely off the charts as far as LFE goes! eek.gif All it took was 2 toothpicks lodged into the joystick mechanism and a piece of velcro between the lens and the housing. tongue.gif My Mini is being a bit finicky and I might have to swap it out, but not a big deal.......loving that otherwise as well.

I swear 3d just looks more impressive in general on this 7000. Maybe it is all in my head, but both depth and pop out seem more noticeable.

JVC 3D: Been there, done that, bought a DLP
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post #2816 of 9087 Old 01-05-2013, 11:23 PM
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Sony HW50 vs JVC RS45 2D Impressions

So after spending time with my HW50 I thought I would post my thoughts in regards to 2D on the HW50 vs. the RS45 (which I believe is very similar to the new X35/RS46). I still need to evaluate 3D but what I've seen thus far the HW50 is a MUCH better 3D projector than the RS45 is.

My initial thoughts on the HW50 were that the contrast wasn't as good as the RS45 which for me is a big deal as I'm very picky about black levels. But I was coming to this conclusion because I was focusing on very dark scenes.

Up until I very recently I've been perfectly content with 2D on my RS45. It has very good contrast and more than sufficient brightness. The added FI, helped improve motion and for me all of these improvements were a big upgrade over my RS2 clone (Pioneer FPJ1). The only reason I was upgrading was because I was looking for better 3D than the RS45 has to offer.

Over the past few days I was able to watch 3 movies (3 hour movies at that!) including The Sound of Music and I finally got around to viewing The LOTR The Fellowship of the Ring EE, and LOTR The Two Towers EE. Ah it's a little disappointing to see a better transfer on an older film such as The Sound of Music over the first two LOTR movies as The Fellowship of the Ring is one of my favorite films:(. The Sound of Music was the first film on the list (starting off the new year right thinking of my wife first wink.gif) and very early on I was faced with a dark scene that while good was slightly lacking compared to the RS45. After that early scene I really started liking the Sony. With RC at its lower settings (20-25) I found the picture noticeably sharper than my JVC without looking too digital. Even my wife commented how sharp the picture was. Additionally, using the low FI setting on the HW50 made the motion very smooth. I also tested the high setting and I found motion very smooth on the Sony compared to the JVC. FI using JVC’s Mode 3 isn't as smooth as Sony's low mode. Also, JVC's Mode 4 seemed to show a bit more artifacts vs. the Sony's high mode.

Black levels and contrast were quite pleasing on The Fellowship of the Ring. I just finished watching The Two Towers just hours ago and it looked fantastic! I never found myself missing the JVC. Very impressive!

Last night and tonight I went back and viewed key scenes of The Fellowship of the Ring and The Sound of Music on my RS45 to see how it faired against the Sony. NO surprise here that the JVC was favored in dark scenes and that there was a slight but noticeable contrast advantage with the JVC in other scenes but mainly in the darkest scenes. I used the Auto Full iris setting on the Sony to get the best contrast/black levels which does dim details in dark scenes. Besides this difference to my surprise for the first time since I've owned my RS45 it didn't look quite the same anymore. The picture looked sharp in some scenes but it just didn't have the clarity of the Sony. The Sharpness and Detail Enhancement controls could be increased to help with overall sharpness however created more of an artificial/digital look to the picture which I didn't like. Additionally motion on the JVC now didn't look all that smooth and I found it bothersome from time to time. Motion was just smoother on the Sony. The brightness of the JVC still looked good but the additional brightness of the Sony was a nice feature (but not a must). Lastly, colors on the JVC looked over saturated in comparison however neither projector is calibrated other than very basic controls.

For reference, both projectors were in low lamp mode with an 18' throw. The projector is a couple feet above eye level throwing onto a 119" Dalite HP 2.4 gain screen. My room is fairly dark with a black ceiling and black curtains on the front side walls but I do have light tan carpeting with a low ceiling.

In summary the JVC looked better in very dark scenes. The bridge scene in the Raimi version of Spider-Man is a good example. Mary Jane and the bridge are brighter than they are on the Sony while the night sky is a shade darker on the JVC as well. The difference is probably slight yet very noticeable to my eyes. In the end for the type of shows that I view these types of scenes are likely going to be minimal. Yes, it will probably bother me a little but I am somewhat of a perfectionist. Now that I've seen the Sony's strengths the motion, sharpness, and colors would bother me on the JVC and likely much more often that my complaints with the Sony. Even as a black level fanatic I believe that I now prefer the Sony over the JVC for 2D. I am now ready to let go of my JVC and send it off to a good home. It's been a good projector but I believe I've found a better one. biggrin.gif
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post #2817 of 9087 Old 01-06-2013, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I think some of the decision comes down to sample variance. My specific RS55 looks better than the 4810 I reviewed for 2 main reasons - focus and convergence. they are A++ on my specific RS55 but around a B- on the 4810 I saw.
We saw several RS60 and RS65's with focus and convergence issues. This would have been difficult for me to swallow the difference in cost vs. the RS55 if there was no guarantee of the same quality that RS35 owners received.

That is why I went out before buying the RS-45 to see various RS-40's and RS-45's to make sure I knew what to expect, as in what a better than average sample would look like. I agree some are off, but it is still far better than what Epson averages. Not sure about the Sony, the Sony's seem to have fairly consistent convergence (maybe even more consistent than JVC, not sure).

You can have a super sharp JVC, but in order to get one, you have to be overly picky and RMA it if your unit isn't super sharp.



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post #2818 of 9087 Old 01-06-2013, 01:35 AM
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Sony HW50 vs JVC RS45 2D Impressions
................................................................
I was kinda worried that when will you come here to bash the sony because it's black level is not on par with the jvc. After reading your impressions I'm really relieved to hear that you liked it more. Maybe that is because I jumped the gun and ordered sony few days back. tongue.gif But for me the sony was more obvious decision from the get go, when not having bat cave. Probably the white sealing alone would destroy the better contrast of jvc. So in that regard the contrast and black level should be on par in my setup(when living in a rental home and not possible to transform my living room to a bat cave). I guess some projector buyers don't even think about that when deciding on what pj to buy.

But from the start I was looking for all around best pj for me and coming from cheat 720p DLP pj, I only can get way more advanced pj in every front that I have now. smile.gif
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post #2819 of 9087 Old 01-06-2013, 02:14 AM
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@xb1032 thank you cumpa, do you usee darbee dablet? Do we need darbee with sony hw50es?
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post #2820 of 9087 Old 01-06-2013, 03:03 AM
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I was kinda worried that when will you come here to bash the sony because it's black level is not on par with the jvc. After reading your impressions I'm really relieved to hear that you liked it more. Maybe that is because I jumped the gun and ordered sony few days back. tongue.gif But for me the sony was more obvious decision from the get go, when not having bat cave. Probably the white sealing alone would destroy the better contrast of jvc. So in that regard the contrast and black level should be on par in my setup(when living in a rental home and not possible to transform my living room to a bat cave). I guess some projector buyers don't even think about that when deciding on what pj to buy.
But from the start I was looking for all around best pj for me and coming from cheat 720p DLP pj, I only can get way more advanced pj in every front that I have now. smile.gif

I was slightly worried about the black level as well since I was able to see the HW50 in action in the Sony Building in Tokyo, I even got a chance to see the HW1000ES. The showing room is a bat cave. Even under these conditions to my surprise both PJs had slightly greyish blacks (the HW50 slightly more so), but my expectations were quite (too?) high. As long as you don't focus on the absolute black levels and watch the movie it's not that big of a deal.

Even if you live in a rental I'm sure you could get away with painting the ceiling dark as long as you repaint when moving out? I live in a rental as well and I painted my ceiling dark charcoal and drilled a few holes in the ceiling next to the walls and mounted curtain rails so I can pull a pair of dark curtains to cover the side walls up to 3 meters from the projector towards the couch. This also pleased my gf as the room walls stay light colored when the curtains are not drawn. Once I move out I'll just fill up the holes and repaint the ceiling.

I must say the curtains make a clear difference to the black level and contrast even when viewed on a piece of white bed sheet with the Sony HW50ES. Luckily I'm about to get my Da-Lite screen any day now.


Some initial observations on the Sony HW50 (note: The PJ is still uncalibrated and just viewed on a bed sheet)

2D: I think 2D looks very pleasing, even if the blacks aren't quite as black as I had hoped. On the other hand my room isn't completely light controlled, only the first 3 meters of the ceiling is dark charcoal paint and the walls are covered with black curtains. When the iris clamps down in a completely black screen, the black level is very good. The iris of the PJ seems to work quite invisibly while viewing regular content (Exception: You can see the iris closing down very clearly when the screen goes to complete black), which is a requirement for me if I am to use it. During most content (over 90% of any scenes) blacks are good enough even if I'm somewhat of a black level fanatic. I will have to see how much the HP raises the perceived black level. Contrast is way better than on any display I've owned before. Motion flow seems to work very nicely, but still any FI in 2D looks somewhat strange to me, I'm very sensitive to the soap opera effect so I've mostly had it turned off.

3D: Initial impressions on 3D are rather good but even without the brightness of a HP the opening scene in Sammy's Adventure has some clearly visible flicker on the bright blue sky. After that initial scene flicker wasn't that visible, maybe due to less bright scenes or just that my eyes got used to it. Even my GF could clearly point out the flicker so it's rather apparent I'd say. I have to test out the same scene after I get my HP to see if the increased brightness makes it worse. FI improves the viewing experience of 3D especially in animations, I have to watch a few more movies to see if I prefer it in anything else. I haven't had any IR sync issues even without a proper white screen so I expect it's not going to be an issue for me. Regarding the brightness in 3D it seems that even on a bed sheet the brightness through 3D glasses seems better than at my local cinema.

3D IR Buzz: Setting the signal strength to 1 in the service menu clearly reduces the buzz but it's still in my opinion too annoying, so it's not a solution for me. I've talked to Sony and their PrimeSupport service in the EU is shipping me a new projector due to arrive in a few days. I get to keep both PJs until I can check if the new projector has no issues. After I let Sony know I'm happy with the new one Sony will arrange a pickup for the buzzing PJ.
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