Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

When mine is first starting up, before the "D-ILA" image there is a whine/ringing noise, but then it goes away at exactly the same time as the logo image appears. I have always assumed this was some form of start up circuit bringing the lamp up to temp. High power lights (i.e. car xenon lights) have power modulated circuits that dump higher voltages into gas based bulbs. As the gas heats and conducts the voltage is modulated down.
Yeah it's the bulbs heating up once turned on, I'd imagine the vast majority of projectors of all brands go through it.

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Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

Does your house flex or move or something? Do you have 20-0 Hawkeye vision? I cannot imagine adjusting my focus every few days. I have my projector ceiling mounted on 2.5" galvanized pipe with the flange screwed into a ceiling joist. My fixed frame screen is suspended from an angled knee wall from only plastic anchor drywall screws. Once focus is adjusted I use the lens memory function to change from 1.76:1 to 2.35:1 viewing and back with no issues.
Haha, nothing abnormal about my environment, I live in a brick house and my projector is mounted on a very sturdy wall-mounted shelf (rated to above 100kg load) that reads dead level if you place a spirit level on it.

All the projectors I've owned have exhibited some form of focal & positioning drift over time, but then I've only really owned two projectors. My first projector was a Sony VPL-HW10, you'd turn it on and it would be in focus perfectly on the left side of the screen, but be out of focus on the right. So you adjust the focus and watch your film, but by the end of the film you'd notice that the image was now in focus on the right hand side, but out of focus on the left hand side! Basically it took about 60-90mins for the focus to settle, so if you change the focus within that settling time it would be out of focus after it had settled. There was also an issue with the lens position going up and down. I'd start the day and the image would be about an inch or two lower than my screen's position (on the wall), so I would adjust the vertical alignment, then by the end of the day the image would be an inch or two higher than my screen's position. It was the exact same situation as with the focus.

The JVC DLA-X35 I've found to be much more solid lens-wise. I always check the focus before I play a film to ensure it's at its optimal focus, and while I find that it remains in focus once you've set it (much unlike my old Sony), it does drift a little out after so many hours use (and in a couple of days I've been known to rack up 10hrs use or more!). Image position on the other hand does tend to wander, I've had my screen dip a centimeter or two over the course of 24hrs many a time in the brief period I've owned it. None of this is any problem to adjust for of course when you have a motorised lens and a pretty nifty lens-memory feature.
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post #992 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

So I wouldn't use Gamma A. That is an S curve Gamma which is a concept that I think only JVC have entertained. I would set the gamma to Custom1 and then go into Custom1 and use the 2.3 or 2.4 reference preset (try both and choose your preference).

Changed the gamma over the weekend and it made a significant difference with the contrast. Still not sure if we like the 2.3 or 2.4???? 2.4 seems to be a little to dark.

We powered the X35 up for the first time back on May 11th. We are just over the 200 hr mark, just lovin' our first HT.
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post #993 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 02:38 PM
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Hi guys

I'm waiting my X35 to arrive in the next few days. Cant wait really but i have one big question.

I have CIH 2.35:1 screen and the lens memory function was much needed. I saw some videos on youtube of x35 and lens memory and i'm a little confused. Does the lens memory just zooming the picture or its removing the black bars?

And is there anyone here who is using the PJ with HTPC? Can you give me some conf setting of ATI RADEON 5700 HD
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post #994 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 02:46 PM
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I was kind of wondering what most people do for their lamp mode setting. Do most here run normal for lower fan noise and longer lamp life, or high lamp for the brightest possible image?

I have a 150" screen in a totally light controlled room and find the lower powered mode to generally be worth it due to its fairly silent fan noise, but I was just wondering what most others here do. Figured I would ask you all which way you go with your lamp settings.
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post #995 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Vao View Post

Hi guys

I'm waiting my X35 to arrive in the next few days. Cant wait really but i have one big question.

I have CIH 2.35:1 screen and the lens memory function was much needed. I saw some videos on youtube of x35 and lens memory and i'm a little confused. Does the lens memory just zooming the picture or its removing the black bars?

And is there anyone here who is using the PJ with HTPC? Can you give me some conf setting of ATI RADEON 5700 HD

Black bars are still there. The lens memory is just doing automatic zoom, shift and focus.

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post #996 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by allupons View Post

I was kind of wondering what most people do for their lamp mode setting. Do most here run normal for lower fan noise and longer lamp life, or high lamp for the brightest possible image?

I have a 150" screen in a totally light controlled room and find the lower powered mode to generally be worth it due to its fairly silent fan noise, but I was just wondering what most others here do. Figured I would ask you all which way you go with your lamp settings.

I try to size a system, so that normal (low) lamp mode can be used. That way you have somewhere to go, besides dynamic, once the lamp wears down.

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post #997 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 03:10 PM
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ohhhh.. well ...lets hope then the black levels are enough good making the black bars invisible... :P
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post #998 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 04:55 PM
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Hi All,

Im in the process of building a dedicated full light control room (no windows), completely black ceiling and walls.

I got a little over excited about my build and purchased a 160" 2.37:1 Majestic Fixed Screen w Evo3D & Fidelio Velvet frame as standard (acoustic vision 4K).

I am a little scared that the screen will be too big for the proposed projector (X75) to really produce a bright image, especially in 3D.

Is anyone running ascreen this size with an X35 or above? I would love to hear your thoughts.
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post #999 of 2334 Old 07-22-2013, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shingster View Post

All the projectors I've owned have exhibited some form of focal & positioning drift over time, but then I've only really owned two projectors. My first projector was a Sony VPL-HW10, you'd turn it on and it would be in focus perfectly on the left side of the screen, but be out of focus on the right. So you adjust the focus and watch your film, but by the end of the film you'd notice that the image was now in focus on the right hand side, but out of focus on the left hand side! Basically it took about 60-90mins for the focus to settle, so if you change the focus within that settling time it would be out of focus after it had settled. There was also an issue with the lens position going up and down. I'd start the day and the image would be about an inch or two lower than my screen's position (on the wall), so I would adjust the vertical alignment, then by the end of the day the image would be an inch or two higher than my screen's position. It was the exact same situation as with the focus.

The JVC DLA-X35 I've found to be much more solid lens-wise. I always check the focus before I play a film to ensure it's at its optimal focus, and while I find that it remains in focus once you've set it (much unlike my old Sony), it does drift a little out after so many hours use (and in a couple of days I've been known to rack up 10hrs use or more!). Image position on the other hand does tend to wander, I've had my screen dip a centimeter or two over the course of 24hrs many a time in the brief period I've owned it. None of this is any problem to adjust for of course when you have a motorised lens and a pretty nifty lens-memory feature.

As you mention, it's not uncommon for focus to drift as the PJ warms up.

Most (like myself) adjust focus after it's warmed up, like a good 30-60mins in. Therefor it's sharper for most of the film (just not the beginning, depending on how quickly you start your movie).

Though I'm running a Mits HC3800 here.
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post #1000 of 2334 Old 07-23-2013, 12:33 PM
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Yeah that's pretty much what I would do with my Sony, but with it taking over an hour sometimes it was best to just watch the film and pause around an hour in and adjust then. Half an hour to an hour here & there before you even sit down to watch a film adds up over the duration of your projector lamp's life!
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post #1001 of 2334 Old 07-23-2013, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majek 60 View Post

Changed the gamma over the weekend and it made a significant difference with the contrast. Still not sure if we like the 2.3 or 2.4???? 2.4 seems to be a little to dark.

We powered the X35 up for the first time back on May 11th. We are just over the 200 hr mark, just lovin' our first HT.

most of the time I leave mine at 2.3 as well. there's 3 different custom gamma settings you can save, so I just saved 2.2, 2.3, and 2.4 so it's easy to change if needed. to be honest, I don't think I've touched it since saving them though. at 2.3 or 2.4 I don't really notice anything while watching, it was only when flipping back and forth looking for differences that I noticed a slight preference for 2.3 on most content.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
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post #1002 of 2334 Old 07-23-2013, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Vao View Post

ohhhh.. well ...lets hope then the black levels are enough good making the black bars invisible... :P

they generally are as long as you have something other than white above/below the screen.

I had a medium brown painted wall when I first got the projector and could not see the black bars above the screen. I've since painted it dark, flat blue and it's totally invisible to me.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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post #1003 of 2334 Old 07-23-2013, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Vao View Post

Hi guys

I'm waiting my X35 to arrive in the next few days. Cant wait really but i have one big question.

I have CIH 2.35:1 screen and the lens memory function was much needed. I saw some videos on youtube of x35 and lens memory and i'm a little confused. Does the lens memory just zooming the picture or its removing the black bars?

And is there anyone here who is using the PJ with HTPC? Can you give me some conf setting of ATI RADEON 5700 HD

what I generally do is set the projector(or any display) using my BD player(happens to be a ps3 for me at the moment). then i'll load up the avs calibration files on the HTPC and tweak the video controls to make sure they still look good. if I need to make serious adjustments I may go back into the displays settings and adjust there as most of my viewing is on the HTPC, and doing too much with the pc's video settings always causes problems with black or white crush.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #1004 of 2334 Old 07-25-2013, 12:44 PM
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Hi anybody compared the Wilson art designer white to a store bought fixed screen
Say elune vision quality or Stewart or draper etc

And would this pj x35 benefit from pro isf calibration?

Thx
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post #1005 of 2334 Old 07-25-2013, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by vm8444 View Post

Hi anybody compared the Wilson art designer white to a store bought fixed screen
Say elune vision quality or Stewart or draper etc

And would this pj x35 benefit from pro isf calibration?

Thx

the general consensus I've heard is that setting the gamma on the x35 is going to be the most effective improvement. color is fairly close from the factory, and brightness/contrast is near perfect at default settings (0). so, yeah, having somebody come in and set the gamma correctly will be a noticeable improvement, but the projector is pretty good with just a basic calibration disc as well, so the first couple hundred hours will still be very enjoyable before you get a pro calibration.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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post #1006 of 2334 Old 07-27-2013, 05:03 AM
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Can I mount this projector close to the ceiling inside a tray ceiling.

- I see vents in the front, is the ventilation completely from the front?

- The tray ceiling is 1 foot high. So the lens will be close to the ceiling. Will this interfere with the image? The screen is a 148" cinemascope screen. It will be about 10 inches below the tray ceiling (As the projector is inside the tray ceiling, the lens is above the top of the screen).

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The back of the room


The screen
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post #1007 of 2334 Old 07-27-2013, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by pcarfan View Post

Can I mount this projector close to the ceiling inside a tray ceiling.

- I see vents in the front, is the ventilation completely from the front?

- The tray ceiling is 1 foot high. So the lens will be close to the ceiling. Will this interfere with the image? The screen is a 148" cinemascope screen. It will be about 10 inches below the tray ceiling (As the projector is inside the tray ceiling, the lens is above the top of the screen).

Images

The back of the room


The screen

There are vents on the front and the back. Also a vent on the bottom front. You will need to provide a fan and duct to pull the hot air away from the projector. What is the gain of the screen?

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post #1008 of 2334 Old 07-27-2013, 04:01 PM
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There are vents on the front and the back. Also a vent on the bottom front. You will need to provide a fan and duct to pull the hot air away from the projector. What is the gain of the screen?

Thank you

Gain 2.4 (Da-lite High power)

The front of the 'enclosure' will be fully open. Is the vent at the back for intake cool air or exhaust hot air? I will install a fan there, but the direction of venting will depend on whether it's to get fresh air in or hot air out I presume?

Do you have a recommendation on what fan to use? Any that is quite and directly plug into a an electric outlet.
Will this work ? (Noise: 22 dBA)
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post #1009 of 2334 Old 07-28-2013, 09:56 AM
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I want to get the 3D Switcher Update on my RS46. Can anyone here share the procedure to follow for US residents? I went on the JVC Professional website and they direct you to the Mendtronix website for service where they give you in choice "out of warranty" or "In warranty" repair. Do you have to go through Mendtronix or do you call JVC directly to set-up the update?

Thank you,
Guy
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post #1010 of 2334 Old 07-28-2013, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by yoguy1 View Post

I want to get the 3D Switcher Update on my RS46. Can anyone here share the procedure to follow for US residents? I went on the JVC Professional website and they direct you to the Mendtronix website for service where they give you in choice "out of warranty" or "In warranty" repair. Do you have to go through Mendtronix or do you call JVC directly to set-up the update?

Thank you,
Guy

You will be getting the work done through Mendtronix and you check in-warranty. Use this form on the JVC Pro page: http://secure.jvc.com/pro/forms/supportrequest.jsp

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post #1011 of 2334 Old 07-28-2013, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by pcarfan View Post

Thank you

Gain 2.4 (Da-lite High power)

The front of the 'enclosure' will be fully open. Is the vent at the back for intake cool air or exhaust hot air? I will install a fan there, but the direction of venting will depend on whether it's to get fresh air in or hot air out I presume?

Do you have a recommendation on what fan to use? Any that is quite and directly plug into a an electric outlet.
Will this work ? (Noise: 22 dBA)

The back and the bottom are the intake. The front is the exhaust. You would need the fan in the back to bring fresh air into the cabinet to be picked up by the vents. You would be ahead to have a way for fresh air to get to the intake vent on the bottom also. You do not want that vent just recirculating the exhaust air back through the bottom vent.
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post #1012 of 2334 Old 07-28-2013, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

You will be getting the work done through Mendtronix and you check in-warranty. Use this form on the JVC Pro page: http://secure.jvc.com/pro/forms/supportrequest.jsp

Thanks Mike!
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post #1013 of 2334 Old 07-28-2013, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

The back and the bottom are the intake. The front is the exhaust. You would need the fan in the back to bring fresh air into the cabinet to be picked up by the vents. You would be ahead to have a way for fresh air to get to the intake vent on the bottom also. You do not want that vent just recirculating the exhaust air back through the bottom vent.


Thanks Mike
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post #1014 of 2334 Old 08-01-2013, 07:48 AM
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Anyone have an opinion on black level performance compared to my HD-250 I own now?
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post #1015 of 2334 Old 08-01-2013, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by alan_ct View Post

Anyone have an opinion on black level performance compared to my HD-250 I own now?

I am not sure anyone has compared these two directly. The HD-250 is a 1000 lumens projector. The RS46 is a 1300 lumens projector. So as whites will be brighter, if the contrast was the same between the two, the black would actually be higher on the RS46. However, the RS46 has double the contrast ratio. So the black level will be a bit better. But I am not sure of the maths. If it was a linear relationship then you could simply do (1300/1000)/(50000/25000) = 0.65:1 ratio -> (1-0.65)*100 = 35% improvement in black level

I am not sure you should be focusing on black level directly. Rather I think you would easily see the improvement in contrast between the two.
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post #1016 of 2334 Old 08-01-2013, 08:29 AM
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Thanks...That does make sense...I just sold mine so Im going to snag an RS46!
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post #1017 of 2334 Old 08-01-2013, 08:32 AM
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Has anyone tried these 3D glasses? Supposedly compatible with most JVCs...http://truedepth3d.com/store/products/jvc-compatible-3d-glasses/ Secondly do the Panny TY-ERD4MU work well with the RS46?
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post #1018 of 2334 Old 08-01-2013, 08:35 AM
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There will be a difference but most likely not very significant and perhaps not noticeable unless you do a direct a/b comparison. Your eyes do not respond linearly to light so even if the contrast ratio would double it wouldnt look like a big change. Other changes would be much more apparent like better colors, better image processing and a sharper image.
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post #1019 of 2334 Old 08-01-2013, 04:47 PM
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In mid-June my JVC RS-45 projector developed a problem and started randomly shutting down and could not be restarted without unplugging/replugging as well as an apparent related lamp problem (new bulb but still not bright). I sent the unit in to get repairs under the JVC warranty to the company they "outsource" to called Mendtronix. I sent the projector in and it was received by Mentronix on June 27th... it is now August 1st and they still apparently haven't even started repairs and the only response I can get from them is a "parts shortage" excuse. The representative I communicated with stated that the "parts shortage" was not limited to the RS-45 but also impacted newer models.

Still no hint at when they will even have available parts to begin the repairs - it does seem likely it will be at least two months without my projector and possibly longer.

Caution to anyone with a RS-45 or considering a new JVC RS-46 or other model that you may be without your projector for months if you need repairs - apparently they don't feel any urgency to get repairs done in a timely fashion.

I will probably not buy another JVC product because of this very poor warranty service and just wanted others to be aware of what they too may face.
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post #1020 of 2334 Old 08-01-2013, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by alan_ct View Post

Thanks...That does make sense...I just sold mine so Im going to snag an RS46!

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