Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 2393 Old 12-10-2012, 12:18 PM
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Just running my first calibration on my X35. I'm using Chromapure autocal with my Lumagen. I've got a good greyscale straight away and even gained some brightness over my initial quick and dirty settings due to a brighter colour temperature (the default 6500K was a little too red) and I've decided to clip at 245 rather than show 255 (I used to clip at 235 with my HD350 so even that is an improvement). I went from 92 Lux peak white to just over 100 lux on my 1.5 gain screen. This is at minimum zoom and aperture at -15 so I'm enjoying the maximum contrast and still getting around 14fL (100 Lux x 0.929 x 1.5).

I'll post some results later to show the initial as found calibration and then the autocal results. I've done the gamut using both standard and wide so I can compare which gives the best results along with my Lumagen.

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post #92 of 2393 Old 12-10-2012, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Thank you for the review, kraine. It has been added to post #1. smile.gif
One thing I have to disagree with ... Are you sure about those audible noise measurements? Because in low lamp mode, the JVC is MUCH MUCH MUCH quieter than my Optoma HD72 which was rated at 27db, so I'm inclined to believe it really is ~21-22 db as stated in the literature. And in high lamp mode, it is only a little louder than my Optoma, I'd guess in the high 20s or low 30s.
Also, did you experience any of these 3D ghosting issues that have been reported online?

I have to agree. Going from 21db to 31db is not a small but a major jump in audible noise.
Others have said low lamp in the 45 and 46 were very similar. The big move was the higher noise in high lamp on the 46 compared to the 45.
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post #93 of 2393 Old 12-10-2012, 01:20 PM
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Just a few results to show how the colour gamuts measure up at 75%. These are with the CMS in my Lumagen set to 'Off'. I hadn't realised that changing the colour space setting effects the greyscale, so my second autocal was a waste of time as I didn't redo the greyscale (colour space set to Standard) when I changed the colour space to Wide for the second attempt at CMS. rolleyes.gif Anyway, as the lamp will drift so quickly I'll get chance to run a full autocal in Wide another time.

This also means that only the standard colour space result below had the white set correctly (see the dE vaules), though the 'off' setting is still only 0.7dE for white so plenty good enough. I'll recheck the wide readings another time and repost them.

X35 colour space off 75%.pdf 1062k .pdf file

X35 colour space standard 75%.pdf 1062k .pdf file

X35 colour space wide 75%.pdf 1063k .pdf file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf X35 colour space off 75%.pdf (1.04 MB, 91 views)
File Type: pdf X35 colour space standard 75%.pdf (1.04 MB, 67 views)
File Type: pdf X35 colour space wide 75%.pdf (1.04 MB, 50 views)

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post #94 of 2393 Old 12-10-2012, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I may be missing something here, but what exactly is the point of having the RJ45 LAN port if I can control the JVC using the remote control? I've heard about an upcoming JVC iPhone app, but again, what would that do that the remote can't? Not trying to be a smart-*** about it, just genuinely curious. smile.gif
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post #95 of 2393 Old 12-10-2012, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I may be missing something here, but what exactly is the point of having the RJ45 LAN port if I can control the JVC using the remote control? I've heard about an upcoming JVC iPhone app, but again, what would that do that the remote can't? Not trying to be a smart-*** about it, just genuinely curious. smile.gif

The Lan Port was used for firmware upgrades in the past. I think they now have a hidden usb port on the new models.
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post #96 of 2393 Old 12-10-2012, 02:50 PM
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Came home to a pleasant surprise. It wasn't scheduled to be delivered until tomorrow, but UPS came a day early.

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post #97 of 2393 Old 12-10-2012, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

The Lan Port was used for firmware upgrades in the past. I think they now have a hidden usb port on the new models.

Ok thanks. If that's its only real use, then it's probably not even worth it to run cat5 in the ceiling to keep it permanently connected.
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post #98 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 02:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Thank you for the review, kraine. It has been added to post #1. smile.gif
One thing I have to disagree with ... Are you sure about those audible noise measurements? Because in low lamp mode, the JVC is MUCH MUCH MUCH quieter than my Optoma HD72 which was rated at 27db, so I'm inclined to believe it really is ~21-22 db as stated in the literature. And in high lamp mode, it is only a little louder than my Optoma, I'd guess in the high 20s or low 30s.
Also, did you experience any of these 3D ghosting issues that have been reported online?

Hey Dragon Rebond smile.gif About my noise measurement, I totally agree the X35 is very quiet in low mode lampe mode but with my sound meter and in my environnement, I'm not able to get a measure under 30DB so 31DB is a very good value.

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post #99 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wildcard011 View Post

Thanks for posting this. Even though I don't plan on using the JVC for gaming, prefer it on my 30" HP ZR30W. I can't wait to try and see how FSX feels on a 120" screen. Should be epic!

Zombie10k just posted some lag results: 80ms

So, still not a projector for the hardcore gamer and probably just for the casual gamer.

Added his result to post 1.
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post #100 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I finally got my JVC mounted. For aesthetics, I wanted this as close to the ceiling as possible, so that's why there's no extension pole. The lens centre ends up being 7.5" from the ceiling drywall, and will be 11.5" above the screen top.

Dragon-Are you projecting on a 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen? I'm guessing 16:9 since your lens is above the top of screen. I'll be using a 2.35:1 screen and my understanding is that I need to have the center of the lens no higher than the top of the screen in order for the lens memory to keep both 16:9 and 2.35 images on the screen. Is that correct?
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post #101 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Dragon-Are you projecting on a 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen? I'm guessing 16:9 since your lens is above the top of screen. I'll be using a 2.35:1 screen and my understanding is that I need to have the center of the lens no higher than the top of the screen in order for the lens memory to keep both 16:9 and 2.35 images on the screen. Is that correct?

Here's my setup:

I have a 100" 16:9 screen with the lens 11.5" above the top of the screen. Screen height is 49" which, in calculations, should allow up to 14.7" of vertical shift (80% of screen height). I also have top/bottom masking panels that I move into position when needed for 2.35:1, making the lens 17.5" above the screen.

I'm not sure about your question. Do you have an anamorphic lens? Or were you planning to zoom in on 2.35:1 content and allow for the black borders to spill onto the wall (or blackout cloth etc...)?


Edit: either way, wouldn't you still be able to shift up to 80% of your screen height? ... which would still allow you to place the projector above the top of the screen?
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post #102 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 10:49 AM
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80 ms lag frown.gif
JVC is hopeless from a gamer point of view...
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post #103 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 10:52 AM
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^ go the 2 projector setup route, works well for me.
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post #104 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 10:54 AM
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80 ms lag frown.gif
JVC is hopeless from a gamer point of view...

I wonder if there is some sort of panel or hardware limitation preventing them from improving this since people have been asking for improvement here since the RS1 and no progress has been made. I would think a gaming mode which turns off all processing, etc.....could be incorporated to get some improvement, but maybe not? confused.gif

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post #105 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I wonder if there is some sort of panel or hardware limitation preventing them from improving this since people have been asking for improvement here since the RS1 and no progress has been made. I would think a gaming mode which turns off all processing, etc.....could be incorporated to get some improvement, but maybe not? confused.gif

Do you think that an adjustment of the "advanced" picture settings would help?

E.g. setting sharpness and noise reduction values to zero, and color space to off.
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post #106 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Here's my setup:
I have a 100" 16:9 screen with the lens 11.5" above the top of the screen. Screen height is 49" which, in calculations, should allow up to 14.7" of vertical shift (80% of screen height). I also have top/bottom masking panels that I move into position when needed for 2.35:1, making the lens 17.5" above the screen.
I'm not sure about your question. Do you have an anamorphic lens? Or were you planning to zoom in on 2.35:1 content and allow for the black borders to spill onto the wall (or blackout cloth etc...)?
Edit: either way, wouldn't you still be able to shift up to 80% of your screen height? ... which would still allow you to place the projector above the top of the screen?

I have a 2.35:1 screen without an anamorphic lens. I'll be using the lens memory feature to go between 2.35 and 16:9. 2.35 images will fill the screen and 16:9 will be zoomed down with vertical black bars. I was under the impression that even with lens memory, I wouldn't be able to do this with consistent results if the lens was above the top of the screen. Are vertical lens shift settings saved as part of the lens memory feature, in addition to zoom settings?
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post #107 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Do you think that an adjustment of the "advanced" picture settings would help?
E.g. setting sharpness and noise reduction values to zero, and color space to off.

Your guess is as good as mine. smile.gif I doubt that these adjustments would help, but dont know for sure.

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post #108 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Do you think that an adjustment of the "advanced" picture settings would help?
E.g. setting sharpness and noise reduction values to zero, and color space to off.

Depending on what other processing (if any) you are going to do then the choice of colour space might be impacted: Wide might be a better option for those with Lumagen or DVDO outboard CMS, but without external CMS I'd suggest that Standard seems to be pretty good judging from my measurements last night prior to my calibration.

I've left my sharpness (and detail) at zero as I did with my HD350 as anything above zero starts to effect the chromaplate burst pattern causing ringing or other effects. I use my Darbee to help provide the effect of sharpness anyway. I know some like to crank up the setting, but it only seems to add ringing (in the form of a white line round dark objects and visa versa) and on my older HD350 I reckon it caused a kind of micro judder as well.

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post #109 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Depending on what other processing (if any) you are going to do then the choice of colour space might be impacted: Wide might be a better option for those with Lumagen or DVDO outboard CMS, but without external CMS I'd suggest that Standard seems to be pretty good judging from my measurements last night prior to my calibration.
I've left my sharpness (and detail) at zero as I did with my HD350 as anything above zero starts to effect the chromaplate burst pattern causing ringing or other effects. I use my Darbee to help provide the effect of sharpness anyway. I know some like to crank up the setting, but it only seems to add ringing (in the form of a white line round dark objects and visa versa) and on my older HD350 I reckon it caused a kind of micro judder as well.

I think he was asking in reference to lag and if those type of changes could improve things in that area.

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post #110 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Dragon-Are you projecting on a 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen? I'm guessing 16:9 since your lens is above the top of screen. I'll be using a 2.35:1 screen and my understanding is that I need to have the center of the lens no higher than the top of the screen in order for the lens memory to keep both 16:9 and 2.35 images on the screen. Is that correct?

The center of the lens can be a max of 30% image height above the image and work for lens memory on a 2.35 screen. This of course is based on not using any horizontal lens shift. the use of horizontal lens shift subtracts from the available amount of vertical lens shift.

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post #111 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Depending on what other processing (if any) you are going to do then the choice of colour space might be impacted: Wide might be a better option for those with Lumagen or DVDO outboard CMS, but without external CMS I'd suggest that Standard seems to be pretty good judging from my measurements last night prior to my calibration.
I've left my sharpness (and detail) at zero as I did with my HD350 as anything above zero starts to effect the chromaplate burst pattern causing ringing or other effects. I use my Darbee to help provide the effect of sharpness anyway. I know some like to crank up the setting, but it only seems to add ringing (in the form of a white line round dark objects and visa versa) and on my older HD350 I reckon it caused a kind of micro judder as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I think he was asking in reference to lag and if those type of changes could improve things in that area.
Correct. smile.gif

Maybe Zombie10k could chime in on this since he has the tools needed to measure lag accurately?

Regarding sharpness, I did turn down the sharpness to 10 & 10 on the Natural profile because the default of 30 & 10 was definitely causing haloing. I think Cinema default was 20 & 10 (which I also turned down to 10 & 10 for now). No Darbee.
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post #112 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I have a 2.35:1 screen without an anamorphic lens. I'll be using the lens memory feature to go between 2.35 and 16:9. 2.35 images will fill the screen and 16:9 will be zoomed down with vertical black bars. I was under the impression that even with lens memory, I wouldn't be able to do this with consistent results if the lens was above the top of the screen. Are vertical lens shift settings saved as part of the lens memory feature, in addition to zoom settings?

Yes, The JVC projectors have independent memory for lens shift, zoom and focus. So you could actually have two or more different aspect screens and different throw distances and as long as you do not exceed the throw, zoom or lens shift requirements you could hit both screens properly.

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post #113 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I have a 2.35:1 screen without an anamorphic lens. I'll be using the lens memory feature to go between 2.35 and 16:9. 2.35 images will fill the screen and 16:9 will be zoomed down with vertical black bars. I was under the impression that even with lens memory, I wouldn't be able to do this with consistent results if the lens was above the top of the screen. Are vertical lens shift settings saved as part of the lens memory feature, in addition to zoom settings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Yes, The JVC projectors have independent memory for lens shift, zoom and focus. So you could actually have two or more different aspect screens and different throw distances and as long as you do not exceed the throw, zoom or lens shift requirements you could hit both screens properly.


Spaceman: in fact, it can store up to 5 lens settings in memory (shift, zoom, focus). And the lens setting can be locked if needed. And so far, the memory setting function has been perfectly accurate.

Edit:
But if you can, place it at the shortest throw since you'll lose some lumens when zoomed into 2.35:1. The ProjectorCentral calculator should help you with that.
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post #114 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

For some reason, that's the only part of the HDMV disc that won't play. It gets hung up. Thanks anyways, I just realized there is a MP4 download version that I'll try.

Update: the MP4 files played fine on my PS3 (with USB stick attached).

My convergence was perfect for the vertical bars. Horizontally, only blue was off by ~ 1/2 a pixel, but since the X35 only allows for 1.0 pixel adjustments, I left it alone. But I can see how this would drive some OCD types batty. wink.gif
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post #115 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Correct. smile.gif
Maybe Zombie10k could chime in on this since he has the tools needed to measure lag accurately?
Regarding sharpness, I did turn down the sharpness to 10 & 10 on the Natural profile because the default of 30 & 10 was definitely causing haloing. I think Cinema default was 20 & 10 (which I also turned down to 10 & 10 for now). No Darbee.

Oh I see. redface.gif I thought you meant more generally, I'd overlooked the lag part as it's off my radar.

Highly recommend trying the Darbee as it saved me buying the X55 just for the Eshift (I already have the CMS covered by Lumagen anyway). Probably find that even on 10 & 10 there is some ringing, but likely only noticeable on test patterns, so if you prefer it, then why not? smile.gif

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post #116 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Oh I see. redface.gif I thought you meant more generally, I'd overlooked the lag part as it's off my radar.
Highly recommend trying the Darbee as it saved me buying the X55 just for the Eshift (I already have the CMS covered by Lumagen anyway). Probably find that even on 10 & 10 there is some ringing, but likely only noticeable on test patterns, so if you prefer it, then why not? smile.gif

I agree re: Eshift, especially since I sit at 1.7-1.8x.

But that doesn't rule out a future Darbee purchase. Other expenses for now. smile.gif
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post #117 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

Correct. smile.gif
Maybe Zombie10k could chime in on this since he has the tools needed to measure lag accurately?

I've tried toggling all the settings I could find, it's still ~80ms.
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post #118 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I've tried toggling all the settings I could find, it's still ~80ms.

I came to the conclusion a while ago that JVC does not consider the gamer as a top purchaser of JVC projectors. I took your advice a few months ago and just added a second projector for gaming and TV which has worked out exceptional well. biggrin.gif
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post #119 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I agree re: Eshift, especially since I sit at 1.7-1.8x.
But that doesn't rule out a future Darbee purchase. Other expenses for now. smile.gif

I sit nearer 1.3x but I have an A lens too. Just couldn't justify the extra £2,100 (in the UK) which is virtually double the price of the X35 for me. My Darbee is after my Lumagen so for 2.35:1 lens use the Darbee is fed with a stretched image using all 1920 x 1080 pixels, so has all the pixels to play with. Not sure if this makes a difference, but I think it might have something to do with it as the image looks pin sharp. A Darbee is something you can add anytime, even after a calibration, so could just be a nice plus to add when the intial 'new toy' shine has worn off a little.

I definitely think that the motion is better on the X35 than my older HD350, but I also think that ANSI contrast appears to be better: I plan to try measuring it at some point, just to see if it's real or imagined. I know that if I don't set up my 'bat tent' and other dark materials to reduce reflection to the screen, that I measured 75:1 on my HD350. So using the same lux meter, test patterns and BluRay player then it should be a useful comparison. In full 'bat tent' set up I hit 230:1 with the HD350 so I'm hoping that once I've done some room improvements in the new year that I can hit or exceed that figure as I remember how good the HD350 looked when the room was rigged up (temporarily) to hit that figure. If the X35 has more ANSI contrast to start with, I have a better chance of exceeding my 230:1 target. cool.gif

I was adjusting some settings in my Lumagen and the X35 went into 3D mode. The lamp goes up to full power and the increased fan noise was quite noticeable, so I hope I don't have to go to high lamp in the future as the lamp ages, though at -15 (and -9 for 2.35:1 lens use) I have plenty in hand.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens...
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post #120 of 2393 Old 12-11-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragon Reborn View Post

I agree re: Eshift, especially since I sit at 1.7-1.8x.
But that doesn't rule out a future Darbee purchase. Other expenses for now. smile.gif

I am at 1.8 for 1.78 and 1.4 for 2.35 and even at the 1.8 view distance I find the Darby to be worth every cent. cool.gif

The question I am wondering about is what would eshift2/MPC do for me at these view distances.....

JVC 3D: Been there, done that, bought a DLP
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