Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 41 - AVS Forum
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post #1201 of 2367 Old 10-13-2013, 11:03 PM
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Yeah, it can take less time. Was just being on the safe side with my suggestion.

It may or may not pop up again. It's due to how the lamp works via the arcing across the electrodes (cathode/anodes?). By switching to a different power level, the arc points usually change, sorta like finding better contacts on a dirty electrical connector. Then switching back to your original power level the arc points now take a slightly different path.
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post #1202 of 2367 Old 10-14-2013, 09:58 AM
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interesting. so even if it does return, it's unlikely to get worse, or stop being 'fixable' by using high lamp for awhile. that's good to know.

makes me few it as an 'issue' rather than a 'defect'.

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post #1203 of 2367 Old 10-14-2013, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

interesting. so even if it does return, it's unlikely to get worse, or stop being 'fixable' by using high lamp for awhile. that's good to know.

makes me few it as an 'issue' rather than a 'defect'.

My Sony HW30 had a flickering lamp on occasion for the first ... 6 or 7 hours. I would fix it temporarily by putting the lamp on high for a second, and then back to low. After those 6 or 7 hours it never came back.

Panasonics also had flickery lamps, too. Seems like a lot of these projectors do it. frown.gif
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post #1204 of 2367 Old 10-14-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

interesting. so even if it does return, it's unlikely to get worse, or stop being 'fixable' by using high lamp for awhile. that's good to know.

makes me few it as an 'issue' rather than a 'defect'.

Well, I dunno about it never being un-fixable. Towards the end of the lamp life it may become un-fixable. By that point hopefully the lamp dimness would be more of an issue than a possible un-fixable flickering problem.

But yeah, I'd lean to this being a somewhat common issue of arc lamp designs than a defect. You can see it almost every night on street lamps.
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post #1205 of 2367 Old 10-14-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Well, I dunno about it never being un-fixable. Towards the end of the lamp life it may become un-fixable. By that point hopefully the lamp dimness would be more of an issue than a possible un-fixable flickering problem.

But yeah, I'd lean to this being a somewhat common issue of arc lamp designs than a defect. You can see it almost every night on street lamps.

as long as it's not something that's going to get progressively worse, and more common, and by 500hrs never go away.

I mean shoot, I've been resetting the check engine light on my car for a year... so I can deal with 'issues' as long as they aren't a sign of a defect that needs repair. and before you car enthusiasts jump on me, the CEL is a known fault with the electronics of my car. the 'fix' is to disable the sensor. so it's not i'm ignoring a bad O2 sensor or something that actually does need my attention tongue.gif

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post #1206 of 2367 Old 10-14-2013, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

as long as it's not something that's going to get progressively worse, and more common, and by 500hrs never go away.

I mean shoot, I've been resetting the check engine light on my car for a year... so I can deal with 'issues' as long as they aren't a sign of a defect that needs repair. and before you car enthusiasts jump on me, the CEL is a known fault with the electronics of my car. the 'fix' is to disable the sensor. so it's not i'm ignoring a bad O2 sensor or something that actually does need my attention tongue.gif

How do you know? If you keep resetting the CEL, you'll never know. biggrin.gif
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post #1207 of 2367 Old 10-14-2013, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

How do you know? If you keep resetting the CEL, you'll never know. biggrin.gif

In theory he's deciphering the error code before he erases it.
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post #1208 of 2367 Old 10-14-2013, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

How do you know? If you keep resetting the CEL, you'll never know. biggrin.gif

i have to read the code before i can delete the code cool.gif

it's actually not even the point of hooking up the scanner. i just regularly scan to see if anything 'new' is there, since the light is never off, i never get warned of a new code automatically.

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post #1209 of 2367 Old 10-15-2013, 05:13 PM
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Depends how often. Lamps age from both hours used and " strikes " - the number of times you turn it on and off. Short use once in a while - ok. On and off for 15 minutes 20 times a day every day - probably going to need a new bulb sooner than you would have normally.

I've always been curious about that logic (not disagreeing with it!). People always say not to turn on and off projectors because of wear and tear on the lamp. Is there any scientific proof of this? I remember hunting for some info a while ago, and never could find anything. frown.gif

I'm also curious about situations, in general:

I watch a movie for 2 hours, but then I have to leave for an hour. Should I turn the projector off and then turn it on again an hour later? I don't know!

Here is what Mitsubishi says regarding turning on and off a projector ( just FYI ) -

Quote:
The number of times you turn the projector on and off. Frequently turning the projector on and off shortens the projector lamp life. Each time a projector is turned on, a significant amount of power is required to strike the lamp for it to start up; this extra powerful strike to the lamp wears the lamp out significantly more than when the lamp is under constant but normal operation. Using the projector continuously for two to four hours per day, turning it on and off only once, puts less stress on the lamp than using it for the same two to four hours cumulatively, and turning it on and off the same four to six times in the same day.

http://www.mitsubishi-presentations.com/wp-content/files_mf/lamp_and_lamp_life_document_v09132009.pdf

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post #1210 of 2367 Old 10-16-2013, 09:57 AM
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I believe the rule of thumb is that one strike is roughly equivalent to 2 hr running time.

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post #1211 of 2367 Old 10-17-2013, 06:54 AM
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Hmm, that is good info. However, it is made a little suspect by the fact checking in the doc. Did you catch this part:

At this mode, the projector lamp counter actually slows down its lamp-hour counting process. For
example, during standard brightness mode, the projector accumulate lamp hours at the normal speed of
60 seconds per minute, however, during low lamp mode, the counter slows down to accumulate 75-85
seconds per minute depending on the projector model, thus allowing the accumulation process to take
longer before reaching the peak lamp life. In other words, the peak hour setting in the projector itself
does not change, however the time it takes to reach the peak hour can differ in speed depending on the
lamp mode selected.


So, a "slow" minute is one that has 75-85 seconds?!?! Whoops.

Of course, before you all jump to correct me, I get what they are trying to say. They chose an odd phrasing is my point.

Journeyman hometheaterphile.
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post #1212 of 2367 Old 10-17-2013, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjneder View Post

Hmm, that is good info. However, it is made a little suspect by the fact checking in the doc. Did you catch this part:

At this mode, the projector lamp counter actually slows down its lamp-hour counting process. For
example, during standard brightness mode, the projector accumulate lamp hours at the normal speed of
60 seconds per minute, however, during low lamp mode, the counter slows down to accumulate 75-85
seconds per minute depending on the projector model, thus allowing the accumulation process to take
longer before reaching the peak lamp life. In other words, the peak hour setting in the projector itself
does not change, however the time it takes to reach the peak hour can differ in speed depending on the
lamp mode selected.


So, a "slow" minute is one that has 75-85 seconds?!?! Whoops.

Of course, before you all jump to correct me, I get what they are trying to say. They chose an odd phrasing is my point.

i guess that's kind of odd, but it makes sense. the idea that the bulb will last 3000 'hrs' whether it's in high mode or low mode does make keeping track and planning ahead much easier if you use both high and low modes.

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post #1213 of 2367 Old 10-17-2013, 03:17 PM
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Seems like they also add whatever time per strike they deem appropriate

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post #1214 of 2367 Old 10-17-2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

Seems like they also add whatever time per strike they deem appropriate

Mits, JVC or PJ manufactures in general?

I would be interesting if this can be confirmed and how much time per strike is 'added'...?
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post #1215 of 2367 Old 10-17-2013, 05:08 PM
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all of them

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post #1216 of 2367 Old 10-18-2013, 04:54 PM
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Proud owner of a new JVC DLA-X35 as of today! Paired it with a Dragonfly DFM-TAB-100-MW screen and the images look fantastic!!

I'm having an issue with 3D output however. My PS3 doesn't recognize the 3D aspect of the projector. I have the PK-EM2 plugged in the back. I am running a high speed HDMI cable from my PS3 to my Onkyo 709 receiver and another high speed HDMI cable from the output of the receiver into the input of the projector. I am getting images when playing regular blu-rays, but, if I pop in a 3D disc, I get the error message that I am not hooked up to a 3d capable display. When I go into the Display settings of the PS3, HDMI (Automatic), it shows all the appropriate outputs (480, 720, 1080i, 1080p), but it doesn't recognize a 1080p 3D.

This is my first projector and I am incredibly excited about it and love the images it is producing so far... it would be even better if I could get the 3d to work.

Any suggestions? Thanks.
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post #1217 of 2367 Old 10-18-2013, 06:22 PM
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Have you tried hooking ps3 strait to projector
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post #1218 of 2367 Old 10-18-2013, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kwk2293 View Post

Have you tried hooking ps3 strait to projector

I have not... I would need another high speed HDMI cable to do that (the one from the receiver to the projector is running through the ceiling and would be too much of a hassle to remove and check).

But basically, are you suggesting that my receiver is the cause? The Onkyo 709 should be able to pass the 3D signal.
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post #1219 of 2367 Old 10-18-2013, 08:34 PM
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If You did this and it still didnt work its either ps3 or projector just a way to make it easier to find problem
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post #1220 of 2367 Old 10-18-2013, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by fiilmbuddy View Post

I have not... I would need another high speed HDMI cable to do that (the one from the receiver to the projector is running through the ceiling and would be too much of a hassle to remove and check).

But basically, are you suggesting that my receiver is the cause? The Onkyo 709 should be able to pass the 3D signal.

Most likely you need to hook the PS3 directly to the projector just to enable 3D. After that, your receiver should pass the 3D signal fine. I've seen this behavior before and it's not about passing the 3D signal, but about how the PS3 detects a 3D display in order to enable 3D.
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post #1221 of 2367 Old 10-19-2013, 05:38 AM
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Thanks!! That worked perfectly!!!

At first, I wasn't thinking straight and thought I would have to buy a separate HDMI cable just to test it out. Then, I realized (took me long enough), I can just disconnect my PS3, bring it over to my projector and just use the cable I had running to my receiver from the PS3! biggrin.gif

It's seems ridiculous that you have to jump through this hoop just to get it to work, but, at least it did!

Thanks again 5mark!
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post #1222 of 2367 Old 10-19-2013, 06:32 AM
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Can someone make a copy of the AVS calibration disc? I don't have the know how to make it myself. I will pay for all expenses. thanks in advance.

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post #1223 of 2367 Old 10-19-2013, 03:04 PM
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Are people generally happy with the lumen output of this projector? I have a dedicated theatre room with 100% controlled lighting. My throw is around 15' 6" on to a 115" 2:35 painted wall.

This JVC does not have the split screen calibration,k is there another helpful tool in this model to assist in calibration?

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post #1224 of 2367 Old 10-19-2013, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Are people generally happy with the lumen output of this projector? I have a dedicated theatre room with 100% controlled lighting. My throw is around 15' 6" on to a 115" 2:35 painted wall.

I'm absolutely happy with the lumen output of mine. My situation is slightly different from yours, in that my throw is about 13'9", but my screen size is exactly the same ~45" CIH 2.35:1. Even though my room isn't light controlled at all, I only do my watching at night with all the lights in the house off, so it is almost totally dark. I do have some windows up high in that room where some moon light occasionally shines in, but I only really notice that when it's a full moon (like it was a couple of days back). The walls of my room are white, and the carpet and sofas are a cream colour.

With all of that said, I run my RS46 on low lamp with the iris at -15 unless I'm watching 3D, in which case I still use low lamp, but iris 0.

Right now I'm using Black Out Cloth stretched over a frame for a screen, which I have heard has a gain of around 0.85. The fact that it is white also means that reflections back onto the screen from the walls are reducing my black level when there is a lot of on screen brightness. I'm therefore looking to paint my screen with a Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 mix to try to combat that. I've just finished mixing up the paint for that actually, but won't have a chance to actually start spraying for a few days.

Quote:
This JVC does not have the split screen calibration,k is there another helpful tool in this model to assist in calibration?

Not sure what you mean by a split screen mode. The X35 / RS46 has a pretty comprehensive set of calibration options, with everything except for colour management of the primaries (and secondaries) which is something reserved for the higher end models. Having said that, the primaries are pretty good anyway, so it's not really too much of an issue.

Some people have used an external 3D LUT device to calibrate their projector, and this always results in a near perfect result with much less fuss than trying to adjust manually. I do most of my viewing through an HTPC, so I'm planning to do a similar thing using madVR's 3D LUT capability; I did this in the past with my Plasma TV and the calibration results were incredible.

If your'e keen to do the calibration yourself, the best thing for you to do is buy an Xrite i1 Display Pro (also referred to as an i1D3), and use either one of the commercial packages or Zoyd's pretty impressive free software ColorHCFR.
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post #1225 of 2367 Old 10-19-2013, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by taxman48 View Post

Can someone make a copy of the AVS calibration disc? I don't have the know how to make it myself. I will pay for all expenses. thanks in advance.

I have a copy that I burned a few months back but never used (I use an HTPC so I just played back the files on that in the end).

I'd be happy to put these in a padded back and post them off to you if you'll cover the postage; PM me if you're interested.
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post #1226 of 2367 Old 10-19-2013, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fiilmbuddy View Post

Proud owner of a new JVC DLA-X35 as of today! Paired it with a Dragonfly DFM-TAB-100-MW screen and the images look fantastic!!

I'm having an issue with 3D output however. My PS3 doesn't recognize the 3D aspect of the projector. I have the PK-EM2 plugged in the back. I am running a high speed HDMI cable from my PS3 to my Onkyo 709 receiver and another high speed HDMI cable from the output of the receiver into the input of the projector. I am getting images when playing regular blu-rays, but, if I pop in a 3D disc, I get the error message that I am not hooked up to a 3d capable display. When I go into the Display settings of the PS3, HDMI (Automatic), it shows all the appropriate outputs (480, 720, 1080i, 1080p), but it doesn't recognize a 1080p 3D.

This is my first projector and I am incredibly excited about it and love the images it is producing so far... it would be even better if I could get the 3d to work.

Any suggestions? Thanks.

I had this issue myself a couple of nights back, and fixed it by unplugging the HDMI from the projector and then re-inserting it.

Personally, I think this is most likely due to the long HDMI cable than you (and I) are using. During the handshaking phase between the PS3 and the projector (or the receiver and the projector), one of the tests that's done is to see what the bandwidth of the HDMI link is (HDMI 1.2 vs HDMI 1.3/1.4).

Although these long cables are HDMI 1.4 (High Speed) compliant, the long length can cause issues during the handshake and make the receiver or PS3 drop down to HDMI 1.2 speed. HDMI 1.2 is enough for 1080p24, so most of the time you'd never know, but when you come to play back 3D, you notice that the player isn't able to send 3D images to the display.

Unplugging the HDMI from the projector re-initialises this handshaking, and (for me at least) enables 3D if it wasn't already.

I've only had to do this a couple of times, so I don't have any plans to replace (and upgrade) my HDMI cable yet. Keep us posted on here if the problem persists, and let us know if my suggestion works in the future.
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post #1227 of 2367 Old 10-19-2013, 09:45 PM
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Nezil that 3D Lut stuff is that only for 3D calibration?

I also have my setup HTPC ready, just need a few more components so is there a good affordable 2D calibration software out there? Would a calibration disc like Disney's WOW work well?

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post #1228 of 2367 Old 10-20-2013, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Nezil that 3D Lut stuff is that only for 3D calibration?

I also have my setup HTPC ready, just need a few more components so is there a good affordable 2D calibration software out there? Would a calibration disc like Disney's WOW work well?

The JVC X35 / RS46 has a lot more calibration controls than a disc like Disney WOW is able to take advantage of.

The fact is that now we're in the digital domain, with digital signals being sent to the projector, calibration is a lot different than when analog signals were used. Things like the brightness, contrast and colour controls often don't need to be adjusted any more, and it's these controls that discs like Disney's WOW focus on.

In simple terms, a 3D LUT takes the digital RGB value of a pixel colour, and uses a pre-calculated look up table (LUT) to shift the digital values to ones that the makes the display really produce the colour intended.

For example, if the display natively gives a skin tone that is slightly too red, the 3D LUT will actually ask the display for a different colour, because it knows that the display will actually produce a correct skin tone for that input value.

The 3D element has nothing to do with 3D content, it just shows that the digital value can be adjusted in 3 Dimensions.

There are several ways to apply a 3D LUT, but the most common is either using some PC software (madVR as I mentioned) - Free! Or to use an HDMI component that goes between your source and display - these usually cost ~$1,000.

In every case however, you'll need a colourimeter to accurately measure the way your display creates images with known digital values this is called profiling. You can also use this colorimeter to perform a traditional calibration for your other input devices that cannot use 3D LUTs.

In my opinion, the usefulness of discs like Disney's WOW has passed, and all displays in their 'Movie / Cinema / Film' mode produce images that are more accurate than it was possible to achieve with those discs a few years ago. There is still a huge benefit to calibrating further, but this simply cannot be achieved with a disc and your eyes alone.
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post #1229 of 2367 Old 10-20-2013, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by nezil View Post

I had this issue myself a couple of nights back, and fixed it by unplugging the HDMI from the projector and then re-inserting it.

Personally, I think this is most likely due to the long HDMI cable than you (and I) are using. During the handshaking phase between the PS3 and the projector (or the receiver and the projector), one of the tests that's done is to see what the bandwidth of the HDMI link is (HDMI 1.2 vs HDMI 1.3/1.4).

Although these long cables are HDMI 1.4 (High Speed) compliant, the long length can cause issues during the handshake and make the receiver or PS3 drop down to HDMI 1.2 speed. HDMI 1.2 is enough for 1080p24, so most of the time you'd never know, but when you come to play back 3D, you notice that the player isn't able to send 3D images to the display.

Unplugging the HDMI from the projector re-initialises this handshaking, and (for me at least) enables 3D if it wasn't already.

I've only had to do this a couple of times, so I don't have any plans to replace (and upgrade) my HDMI cable yet. Keep us posted on here if the problem persists, and let us know if my suggestion works in the future.

Like I said before, it is currently working now and if it ever does lose the signal, I'll try unplugging the HDMI cable from the projector and plugging it back in.

You said you had this issue a couple of nights back. Do you mean that it was working correctly before and then, all of a sudden it wasn't? Is that when you applied this fix?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiilmbuddy View Post

Like I said before, it is currently working now and if it ever does lose the signal, I'll try unplugging the HDMI cable from the projector and plugging it back in.

You said you had this issue a couple of nights back. Do you mean that it was working correctly before and then, all of a sudden it wasn't? Is that when you applied this fix?

Yep, that's exactly what happened.
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