Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 64 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1891 of 2444 Old 02-26-2014, 11:22 AM
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A few folks had recommended this projector as i currently own a Infocus X10 and looking to upgrade, my concern is that i have a 95 inch screen but have ambient lighting in my basement. As the RS46 is around 1300 lumens, im wondering if it will be able to put out enough light. Any thoughts or opinions, if not is there another projector similar in performance around this pricepoint?

Thanks
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post #1892 of 2444 Old 02-26-2014, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaks38 View Post

A few folks had recommended this projector as i currently own a Infocus X10 and looking to upgrade, my concern is that i have a 95 inch screen but have ambient lighting in my basement. As the RS46 is around 1300 lumens, im wondering if it will be able to put out enough light. Any thoughts or opinions, if not is there another projector similar in performance around this pricepoint?

Thanks
The brightness may only be 1300 lumens, but the contrast really makes it appear better. Not sure exactly how much ambient light you have, but I have no problem watching TV content at 108" with 2 60 watt light bulbs on. With ambient light, contrast is really the first to go. If you need the brightness, the Panasonic AE8000 throws a lot of light, but I've used it and prefer the quality of the RS46.

But don't be mistaken, to truly get the best performance out of any projector you really should have control over ambient light.
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post #1893 of 2444 Old 02-26-2014, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaks38 View Post

A few folks had recommended this projector as i currently own a Infocus X10 and looking to upgrade, my concern is that i have a 95 inch screen but have ambient lighting in my basement. As the RS46 is around 1300 lumens, im wondering if it will be able to put out enough light. Any thoughts or opinions, if not is there another projector similar in performance around this pricepoint?

Thanks

I had an Infocus X10 with a CAVX 2 prism anamorphic lens projecting onto a 130" 2.35:1 screen. No issues with the RS46's brightness using lens memory to fill the same screen. In fact I have the iris stopped down a fair bit. I have some light issues in my basement as well. I am using low lamp on the RS46.

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post #1894 of 2444 Old 03-03-2014, 01:29 PM
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When referring to "total control over ambient light", this refers to the possibility of switching off ALL light sources, or it also includes controlling the color of the walls?
I have a complete control of ALL light sources, i have a 92" gray screen, but my walls and ceiling are white, and i don't have the possibility to paint them in a darker color.

I'm planning in upgrading in a near future from a Mits HC3100, and i'm debating between a JVC X35 and Sony HW30.
I'am really inclined to the JVC, but i'm afraid its native contrast advantage might be lost due to the white walls and ceiling ...
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post #1895 of 2444 Old 03-03-2014, 01:58 PM
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imo, you should be looking at the hw50 or the x35.

i think the x35 over the hw30 is a no brainer. that size screen, brightness won't be an issue, and i really like the motorized lens control your get with the x35. and the thing is, with white walls, they only light up if you have a bright image on screen, so the fades to black will still be amazing with the jvc, and those dark scenes will stay darker. less light hitting the screen, means less light reflected off the screen, means less light reflecting off the walls back onto the screen.

imo, having white walls/ceiling is MORE reason to go with the darker jvc. the sony is good for ambient light in the room, but the jvc helps with reflected light by being darker to begin with

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post #1896 of 2444 Old 03-03-2014, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

... and the thing is, with white walls, they only light up if you have a bright image on screen, so the fades to black will still be amazing with the jvc, and those dark scenes will stay darker. less light hitting the screen, means less light reflected off the screen, means less light reflecting off the walls back onto the screen...
Very good point, thanks for your opinion smile.gif
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post #1897 of 2444 Old 03-03-2014, 02:08 PM
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I would say that the term 'total control over ambient light' can only refer to the possibility of switching off all light sources and blocking all windows. I say this because light coming from the projector, including any reflections back onto the screen cannot really be considered 'ambient'.

Having said that, white walls and a white screen will DESTROY the contrast ratio of your image, almost entirely negating the benefits of the JVC, the Sony, and any projector with an ANSI contrast greater than ~100:1!

I've heard it said often that it's impossible to change the colours of walls in a viewing environment, and I know it's a difficult topic with wife acceptance and property rental agreements etc. There is however a lot that can be done to reduce room reflections, such as hanging drapes, or curtains around the room, and even over the ceiling.

I've read some posts where black sheets were attached to the walls and ceiling using magnets; others have created make-shift tents to surround the viewing environment. I posted my own implementation a few months back, and I can now say that I'm able visually appreciate most of the contrast that the X35 is able to produce. I'm not sure if it would be worth me going further up the JVC line for an even better native contrast, because my reflected light control is still not as good as it could be, and would need to be, in order to make use of the improvements.

One other point... A grey screen helps to improve black level when the projector has a relatively poor native black response. The depth of grey colour chosen is influenced by the performance of the projector, and the amount of truly ambient light in the viewing environment.

With reflected light, your black level is all over the place, changing with every scene of the content that you're viewing. It is therefore impossible to have a grey screen improve the black level at this point. In brighter scenes, you shadow detail will simply be lost, and the grey screen will only serve to enhance this negative effect.

If you really cannot do anything about your viewing environment, there is one solution... Black Diamond screens, and their equivalents from other manufacturers are designed to selectively reflect light. When done correctly, reflected light from walls and ceilings will be absorbed by the screen, rather than reflected back to your eyes. There are negatives to these screens, such as reduced brightness out of the sweet spot, and sparkly effects if your viewing distance is close; they're also damned expensive!
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post #1898 of 2444 Old 03-03-2014, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_2009 View Post

When referring to "total control over ambient light", this refers to the possibility of switching off ALL light sources, or it also includes controlling the color of the walls?
I have a complete control of ALL light sources, i have a 92" gray screen, but my walls and ceiling are white, and i don't have the possibility to paint them in a darker color.

I'm planning in upgrading in a near future from a Mits HC3100, and i'm debating between a JVC X35 and Sony HW30.
I'am really inclined to the JVC, but i'm afraid its native contrast advantage might be lost due to the white walls and ceiling ...

Controlling ambient light in a room with a projector setup includes controlling light off of the biggest light source in the room and that is the screen. So having light colored walls is not controlling the ambient light.

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post #1899 of 2444 Old 03-03-2014, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Controlling ambient light in a room with a projector setup includes controlling light off of the biggest light source in the room and that is the screen.
Thanks, in that case i have full control of ambient light.
So, i think it would be safe to assume that even with white walls and selling, the X35 should be a MAJOR upgrade from the HC3100 ...
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post #1900 of 2444 Old 03-03-2014, 09:46 PM
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So i ended up finding an open box RS46U for a great deal after cancelling an order for Mitsu 7900. I was curious as the projector central sites projector calculator is telling me for a 95 inch diag screen, i need to be at 12ft10inches. On the JVC site, they have a range as low as 9ft3inches to 19ft. Im a tad concerned about lumens given ill be running with some ambient light so want this as close as possible to optimize lumens, which number should i go for?

Also as im coming from a DLP with 18 inches of offset, am i right that this projector has no offset? I have a ceiling mounted box holding my current projector from the ceiling which i plan to slide the JVC into. My screen is currently 20 inches from the ceiling, so will the vertical shift have enough range or should i plan on lowering the box.

Thanks for the help
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post #1901 of 2444 Old 03-04-2014, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by aaks38 View Post

So i ended up finding an open box RS46U for a great deal after cancelling an order for Mitsu 7900. I was curious as the projector central sites projector calculator is telling me for a 95 inch diag screen, i need to be at 12ft10inches. On the JVC site, they have a range as low as 9ft3inches to 19ft. Im a tad concerned about lumens given ill be running with some ambient light so want this as close as possible to optimize lumens, which number should i go for?

Also as im coming from a DLP with 18 inches of offset, am i right that this projector has no offset? I have a ceiling mounted box holding my current projector from the ceiling which i plan to slide the JVC into. My screen is currently 20 inches from the ceiling, so will the vertical shift have enough range or should i plan on lowering the box.

Thanks for the help

The JVC site is correct. Projector Central is wonky on this unit for some reason. The X35 B and X35 W (the X35 and RS46 are the same unit) have different zoom ratios. But with a 95" screen you are looking at a range specified by JVC (looking at the X35W on Projector Central returns basically the same numbers as JVC does). The RS46 is plenty bright so I would go close to the lower measurement, but with a foot or so of wiggle room. If you are considering using lens memory and going with a scope (2.35:1) setup at any point, then you'll probably want to give this some more thought.

I came from a DLP and no the JVC has no offset. However you don't want to mount the projector at the extreme of its lens shift capability. It can introduce issues. I used an extension pipe on my projector mount to get the unit below the top edge of the screen (viewable edge not frame). I think the lens shift is 30% on the RS46. To calculate the amount of available shift range take the screen height and multiply by the percentage. For a 95" screen you have a height of 47" which multiplied by .30 gives you a total possible shift of 14.1". So that means you can go 7" above the top viewable screen edge or 7" below the bottom viewable edge. So with your current screen at 20" from the ceiling you the highest you could mount the RS46 would be 13" from the ceiling. Again I would not suggest going to the extreme of either the horizontal or vertical shift allowed. Personally I would mount the projector 20+" from the ceiling and use as little shift as possible.

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post #1902 of 2444 Old 03-04-2014, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post

Again I would not suggest going to the extreme of either the horizontal or vertical shift allowed. .

Doesn't the ansi contrast increase a little with vertical lens shift on JVC's?
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post #1903 of 2444 Old 03-04-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Doesn't the ansi contrast increase a little with vertical lens shift on JVC's?

It might. I've also read where a little vertical shift helps with lens spill. But remember going the extreme with vertical lens shift means that you have no horizontal lens shift to work with for small corrections (and vice versa). You can also introduce some picture distortion with a large amount of shift depending on the projector (not sure if the RS46 has this problem). So to me any slight benefit isn't worth it with the potential headaches.

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post #1904 of 2444 Old 03-04-2014, 06:35 PM
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thanks for the feedback. So is it preferable to mount the projector upside down or rightside up if i plan to have say a 7Inch offset from the top of the projector lense down to the top of the screen? I had preferred to mount it rightside up in a box due to its weight.
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post #1905 of 2444 Old 03-05-2014, 11:24 AM
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Should not matter which way you put it in the box. Again I would not go to the extreme of the lens shift. 7" is the maximum.

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post #1906 of 2444 Old 03-05-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeahrens View Post

The JVC site is correct. Projector Central is wonky on this unit for some reason. The X35 B and X35 W (the X35 and RS46 are the same unit) have different zoom ratios. But with a 95" screen you are looking at a range specified by JVC (looking at the X35W on Projector Central returns basically the same numbers as JVC does). The RS46 is plenty bright so I would go close to the lower measurement, but with a foot or so of wiggle room. If you are considering using lens memory and going with a scope (2.35:1) setup at any point, then you'll probably want to give this some more thought.

I came from a DLP and no the JVC has no offset. However you don't want to mount the projector at the extreme of its lens shift capability. It can introduce issues. I used an extension pipe on my projector mount to get the unit below the top edge of the screen (viewable edge not frame). I think the lens shift is 30% on the RS46. To calculate the amount of available shift range take the screen height and multiply by the percentage. For a 95" screen you have a height of 47" which multiplied by .30 gives you a total possible shift of 14.1". So that means you can go 7" above the top viewable screen edge or 7" below the bottom viewable edge. So with your current screen at 20" from the ceiling you the highest you could mount the RS46 would be 13" from the ceiling. Again I would not suggest going to the extreme of either the horizontal or vertical shift allowed. Personally I would mount the projector 20+" from the ceiling and use as little shift as possible.

Close, but the sentence in bold is not correct. The shift range is 80% from screen center and this is in both directions equally. That translates into 30% of the image height above the image, all the way down to 30% of screen height below the image. So for a 47" high image, the center of the lens can be 14" above the image, all the way down to 14" below the image. Anywhere between those two. Now if you use all of the vertical lens shift, zero horizontal is available.

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post #1907 of 2444 Old 03-05-2014, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Close, but the sentence in bold is not correct. The shift range is 80% from screen center and this is in both directions equally. That translates into 30% of the image height above the image, all the way down to 30% of screen height below the image. So for a 47" high image, the center of the lens can be 14" above the image, all the way down to 14" below the image. Anywhere between those two. Now if you use all of the vertical lens shift, zero horizontal is available.

Good to know Mike! Finding good information on that was harder than it should be. I was basing that off what I could find with a Google search. Hopefully aaks38 will see this to adjust his placement.

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post #1908 of 2444 Old 03-05-2014, 06:13 PM
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Thanks guys, i appreciate the help, I was planning to use a 6-7 inch offset between lense and screen top, so it looks like im in good shape.
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post #1909 of 2444 Old 03-07-2014, 03:25 PM
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There is a button for lens memory on the supplied remote and there is a button on my Harmony. Both are very easy to work with. Once you have saved the memory settings, clicking the lens memory button presents you with the saved settings. Select the setting and press OK. And about 15-20 seconds later the lens is where you want it. I have one setting named "Scope" and the other "16:9".

The feature itself works excellent. I was afraid that brightness would be lacking and that it would be hard to equalize between 16:9 and scope viewing. The iris makes it easy to equalize and brightness has not been an issue on my 130" scope screen (the iris is actually closed down). I'm extremely pleased with the results.

I am leaning toward getting this projector and have a question about brightness. The projector will be mounted at 17 feet from the screen which is a 144 inch diagonal 133 wide 2.35:1. Gin on the AT screen is 1 and the room is completely light controlled. Will the image be bright enough
thanks
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post #1910 of 2444 Old 03-07-2014, 04:32 PM
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Depends on you. I would say yes...others would say no. Going by specs or going by your visual taste? I found that question is one that only the buyer can decide. Will the picture look washed out? Depends on your lighting. Lots of factors involved..... But from a purist perspective i doubt you will get a yes, but from a guy who likes to enjoy his big screen and does not let numbers and specs ruin a good movie i think you will be very happy with the picture quality and the quality of the projector itself.

I'll let someone else respond from the other side of the coin but in the end its your decision,,, smile.gif

Have a Happy and safe New Year!!!
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post #1911 of 2444 Old 03-07-2014, 04:49 PM
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Thanks for your input
I will wait for others to chime in but agree that a lot depends on individual taste. Are you aware of any other projectors which may do a better job
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post #1912 of 2444 Old 03-08-2014, 03:03 AM
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I have an X 35 mounted about 20' from a Carada BW 128" 2:35 screen and have the iris at -14 with the contrast around +2 and brightness at -1 using the Natural setting and find it more than sufficient. At the moment the bulb is close to 420 hours and have not needed any adjustments. I never had it properly calibrated but from what I see I am probably getting at least 90% of the performance capability. I am sure having yours closer and given the light output on low ( which is all I use ) it will be more than adequate - assuming you can use it in a darker room. I have some dark 3 foot wide strips of black cloth going across the width of the living room extending at least 6 feet in front of the screen since I did not want to paint the white ceiling, a black wall where the screen is mounted and dark brown side walls - with the main window blacked out it is pretty dark with basically no reflective light so it presents a very nice image. I have tried to get a friend to darken his room but the wife is against it and the difference between when I owned the projector ( an older 720P Hitachi ) he is using and when I had it made watching it when I visited kind of difficult!
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post #1913 of 2444 Old 03-08-2014, 03:42 AM
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I have an X 35 mounted about 20' from a Carada BW 128" 2:35 screen and have the iris at -14 with the contrast around +2 and brightness at -1 using the Natural setting and find it more than sufficient. At the moment the bulb is close to 420 hours and have not needed any adjustments. I never had it properly calibrated but from what I see I am probably getting at least 90% of the performance capability. I am sure having yours closer and given the light output on low ( which is all I use ) it will be more than adequate - assuming you can use it in a darker room. I have some dark 3 foot wide strips of black cloth going across the width of the living room extending at least 6 feet in front of the screen since I did not want to paint the white ceiling, a black wall where the screen is mounted and dark brown side walls - with the main window blacked out it is pretty dark with basically no reflective light so it presents a very nice image. I have tried to get a friend to darken his room but the wife is against it and the difference between when I owned the projector ( an older 720P Hitachi ) he is using and when I had it made watching it when I visited kind of difficult!

Thanks
Is that 128 inch wide. what is the gain on that screen. The room will black ceilings and dark paint on the walls.
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post #1914 of 2444 Old 03-09-2014, 01:42 AM
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Sorry, forgot to mention that the screen is 128" diagonal, and gain I believe is 1.4 and there is more than enough brightness.
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post #1915 of 2444 Old 03-10-2014, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san16 View Post

I am leaning toward getting this projector and have a question about brightness. The projector will be mounted at 17 feet from the screen which is a 144 inch diagonal 133 wide 2.35:1. Gin on the AT screen is 1 and the room is completely light controlled. Will the image be bright enough
thanks

Mine is about that distance from a 130" screen with a 1.0 gain. The iris is stopped down to -7 or 8 when watching scope and it is still plenty bright for us. Low lamp mode.

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post #1916 of 2444 Old 03-10-2014, 08:13 AM
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Thanks
Is that 130 wide or diagonal
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post #1917 of 2444 Old 03-10-2014, 08:15 AM
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Diagonal.

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post #1918 of 2444 Old 03-10-2014, 11:57 AM
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X35 approx 600 hrs on the bulb. I noticed this weekend a bad pixel.

Is this something to worry about?

I have not contacted my dealer yet.

Any Suggestions?
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post #1919 of 2444 Old 03-11-2014, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by majek 60 View Post

X35 approx 600 hrs on the bulb. I noticed this weekend a bad pixel.

Is this something to worry about?

I have not contacted my dealer yet.

Any Suggestions?
It's nothing to worry about, but JVC won't consider it a defect and won't do anything to fix it. I noticed a dead green pixel on my RS4910 that has considerably fewer hours than your X35 and JVC wouldn't do anything.
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post #1920 of 2444 Old 03-11-2014, 08:49 AM
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they usually have some limit to the number or % of the screen that needs to be affected before they consider it unacceptable. true of all display manufacturers.

really sucks, cause i'm sure once you see it, it'll be hard to unsee it

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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