Originally Posted by Holiday121
JVC Settings as of right now with those readings
Picture Mode= Natural
Contrast Brightness Color Tint all at 0
Color Temp Custom 1 with readings of
Gain Red -1
Gain Green -11
Gain Blue -8
Offset Red -11
Offset Green 3
Offset Blue -1
Color Space Standard
Custom 3 Gama 2.6
Lens Aperture 0
Lamp Power Low
HDMI Is set to Enhanced because when using HTPC That's the only way black lvls will show 17+,,, If I used a standard Bluray player the flashed in both super white and Standard
Color Space Auto
Control with HDMI On
For My black lvl I have it set at 3 because that's when both boxes look black
Your settings don't look way off, but I think you're trying to do too much too soon. I'll try and explain as best I can, but do feel free to ask questions.Black Level
First off, the 'Black Level' setting is not intended to be a picture adjustment in the traditional sense. The purpose of this setting is so that you can compensate for ambient light present in your room. If the Black Level is at its lowest, but your room is fairly bright, the darkest areas of the image will be washed out by the ambient light in the room; the Black Level setting raises the darkest black that the projector produces so that this level of light being reflected off your screen is equal to the ambient light in your room.
This really is a clever setting, but it does work by reducing the contrast ratio of your image. If you're using this setting at anything other than the lowest setting, it's a good job you bought JVC's entry level product because you would get zero contrast ratio benefit by moving to a higher range model.Calibration
There is no doubt about it, calibration does have a fairly steep learning curve. Unfortunately, you've really jumped in at the deep end, because you're starting with a projector.
Projection images are affected so much by the environment around them and this can really complicate things. If you use a large test patch for example, some of the light reflecting off your screen will bounce off the furniture, walls, ceiling and floor back onto your screen.
One approach that I must admit I've not tried myself, is to calibrate the projector by taking readings direction into the projection beam, rather than off the screen. It's important to start by taking readings of your colour primaries reflected off the screen and into the lens, and then create a correction matrix that will end up being applied to your readings as you go on (this will also correct for any influence on colour that your screen has). The big benefit to this approach is that your meter will be far better at reading the darkest light levels your projector is able to produce if it's pointed directly at the lens!
I would strongly advise starting your calibration learning by using an LCD TV if possible. Any direct view TV will be easier than a projector, but Plasmas have their own issues that need to be considered.Your JVC Projector
I would start by playing the basic 'Black Clipping' and 'White Clipping' files from the AVS Test Disc in madVR, and making sure that you're not seeing anything below level 16 or above 235.
Following this, using a small test patch (ideally using the madTPG and ColorHCFR combination with madTPG set to the smallest patch and a black background), use the White Point controls to try to correct the white point as best as you can with 80% and 30% grey patches.
Finally, do a greyscale sweep (still using the smallest test patches possible) of the same number of points adjustment in the custom gamma setting, which I believe is 20 points. ColorHCFR will then show you how much you need to adjust the white point and brightness at each point. You then need to go through each point in the JVC OSD adjusting, re-testing, re-adjusting, re-testing etc. until you get closer to a perfect white point and gamma curve.
In a decent viewing environment the black level that the JVC projectors is capable of is almost zero, and a BT.1886 gamma curve will therefore result in something almost exactly a 2.4 power curve. If you're viewing in a bat cave, this will probably work well for you, but if your walls, ceiling, floors or furniture are reflecting some of the light, you might want to go closer to a 2.3 or 2.2 power curve.
The JVC X35 / RS46 does not have adjustments for RGBYCM, so there really isn't much you can do. The adjustments I've talked through will get you 90% of the way to a perfect calibration, and this is what @Zombie10k was saying.madVR 3DLUT
To get even closer to perfection, a 3DLUT created with madVR and ArgyllCMS should be able to bring your colour saturations slightly more in line.
It is possible to perform the entire calibration with a 3DLUT, avoiding the need for the time consuming white point and gamma settings that I talked about above, I wouldn't recommend this however. The projector itself is making changes to its output image in at least 10-bit resolution (as indicated by the OSD adjustments); madVR is working with the 8-bit output of the PC however, which gives it less digital values to play with. It might be worth checking the results of a White Point / Gamma / 3DLUT Calibration vs just a 3DLUT Calibration, but my instincts tell me that the former is likely to be slightly better.
I have to be honest here though... The primaries and saturations of the JVC X35 / RS46 are so close to correct, that most people would be unable to tell the difference between a White Point / Gamma calibration, and one that also included a 3DLUT correction. I'm not trying to say that the madVR 3DLUT is un-necessary (it's quite possibly the most powerful image correction solution for consumers available), just that it is far more beneficial, and necessary, when the display is more off
to begin with.Other sources
One significant advantage to going the White Point / Gamma / 3DLUT route, is that your White Point / Gamma calibration should be perfect for any other video source that you're planning to use.
Now that we're in the digital era, there shouldn't be any need to change your calibration between devices, including between a PC running full level RGB vs a Blu-ray player running limited range YCbCr (assuming you have the levels set correctly of course).
I am doing exactly this in fact, I have a single calibration that I use for my Chromecast, Sony Blu-ray player and HTPC; the only difference being the HDMI levels setting (Enhanced for HTPC, Standard for others). I've used test discs in the Blu-ray player and the raw files on my HTPC; the results are basically identical regardless of source - just as it should be.