Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 75 - AVS Forum
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post #2221 of 2367 Old 05-28-2014, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by gravi View Post

I read in a review that some projectors like the Panasonic that have lens memory can automatically sense content and recall a memory setting. That sounds really cool but curious how it actually works. If it does work I wonder why JVC did not implement this feature.
The auto switch is lame. It auto switches when it detects 30 (or maybe 15) seconds of 2.35 content, which is just short enough to it auto switching during a commercial. I disabled that function right away.
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

I've only heard murmurs of the panny's lens memory, but I believe it does things electronically and not physically. like for 2.35 content it will move the image electronically and stack both black bars on the bottom. that may be what is done automatically, I don't know.
Yes, that's exactly how Panasonic does it. It also will remember masking settings, extremely helpful for 2.40:1 on a 2.35:1 screen.

Panasonic Lens memory is MUCH better than JVC. Also, no lens light leak on Panasonic.

It also always goes to the exact correct position and never needs 'minor position adjustments' like my JVC does. rolleyes.gif
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post #2222 of 2367 Old 05-28-2014, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by AVfile View Post

Can you go to a dealer and get a demo? Ask for the remote so you can see the picture mode/settings.

Yes. I live near Eastporters, one of the sponsors on this site. I saw the X35 in action and I'm quite impressed.

The 3 machines demoed were the Epson 5030, the Sony HW55 and the JVC X35
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post #2223 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

The auto switch is lame. It auto switches when it detects 30 (or maybe 15) seconds of 2.35 content, which is just short enough to it auto switching during a commercial. I disabled that function right away.
Yes, that's exactly how Panasonic does it. It also will remember masking settings, extremely helpful for 2.40:1 on a 2.35:1 screen.

Panasonic Lens memory is MUCH better than JVC. Also, no lens light leak on Panasonic.

It also always goes to the exact correct position and never needs 'minor position adjustments' like my JVC does. rolleyes.gif

Try setting up your Panny with the projector lens mounted above the screen image. The Panny can't do that because it does not have true lens memory. It is just shifting the image on the chip. I agree it is clever way to do this, but still not true lens memory. With a JVC and a 110" wide 2.35 screen, the JVC lens center can be as much as 14" above the image. Not everybody can place the lens between the top and bottom of the image. Think of people with a second row on a riser. With the projector lens having to be mounted between the top and bottom of the screen and placed above the riser, it just is not going to work. While with the JVC, you can make this work.

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post #2224 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Try setting up your Panny with the projector lens mounted above the screen image. The Panny can't do that because it does not have true lens memory. It is just shifting the image on the chip. I agree it is clever way to do this, but still not true lens memory. With a JVC and a 110" wide 2.35 screen, the JVC lens center can be as much as 14" above the image. Not everybody can place the lens between the top and bottom of the image. Think of people with a second row on a riser. With the projector lens having to be mounted between the top and bottom of the screen and placed above the riser, it just is not going to work. While with the JVC, you can make this work.
The Panasonic implementation is better. Yes, the JVC may be more flexible for installation, but my RS46 constantly needs adjustment to line up properly when switching screen modes and I always have to dig through menus to set the masking for 2.40:1, the Panasonic is precise and remembers masking settings.

Most people don't have their projector a foot over their screen height.

If you have any tips to get my lens memory to work property, let me know, it's constantly 2-3" too low. Even after I re-save it, it still comes back too low.
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post #2225 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 11:59 AM
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^^ I guess it depends on whether you are able to mount your projector behind all the seating or if it must be above the seating, how high you mount your screen, and how much you like your content above eye level.

In my small 10x12 room with 9' ceiling the projector is mounted directly above my seating with the screen on the 12' wall. The bottom of the screen is 26" off the floor and is 42.5" tall (100" wide 2.35:1, 52 degree FOV), which puts the top of the screen at just over 5'8" -- I'd be wary of bumping into the projector every time I sat down if it was mounted at this height (especially if I was using an anamorphic lens too). As it turns out since I am using a mirror to increase my throw to enable CIH for 100" wide, in addition to some vertical lens shift, I also have the mirror tilted so that with the projector at a 12 degree angle (no keystone introduced, and manual specs up to 15 degree angle is acceptable) the mount height is further increased by 8 inches or so -- thus the projector is mounted with lens center around 7.5' high.

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post #2226 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 12:47 PM
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I'm curious about the panny system. but if it's all digital, how does that work for CIH? I mean, doesn't it NEED to zoom in order to achieve CIH?

it just seems like that digital system would make 2.35 stuff perfect, but at the expense of 16:9.

I've always wondered about it, cause it sounds like it does what it does very well, but it doesn't do everything I'd want it to. and I think that is the catch for me.

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post #2227 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 12:56 PM
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^^ The Panasonic unit has motorized zoom but not lens shift. It shifts the image in the panel to simulate lens shift, but for a more limited placement offset.

- Jeff

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post #2228 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

I'm curious about the panny system. but if it's all digital, how does that work for CIH? I mean, doesn't it NEED to zoom in order to achieve CIH?

The zoom and focus are motorized but the shift is electronic (and vertical only).
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post #2229 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

The Panasonic implementation is better. Yes, the JVC may be more flexible for installation, but my RS46 constantly needs adjustment to line up properly when switching screen modes and I always have to dig through menus to set the masking for 2.40:1, the Panasonic is precise and remembers masking settings.

Most people don't have their projector a foot over their screen height.

If you have any tips to get my lens memory to work property, let me know, it's constantly 2-3" too low. Even after I re-save it, it still comes back too low.

You could try resetting the saved memory and completely redoing the configuration. Or purposefully save it high to compensate. I have a small amount overspill on mine and don't really notice if it drifts slightly. I did resave it once when it got off enough to notice the grid lines being off.

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post #2230 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

The Panasonic implementation is better. Yes, the JVC may be more flexible for installation, but my RS46 constantly needs adjustment to line up properly when switching screen modes and I always have to dig through menus to set the masking for 2.40:1, the Panasonic is precise and remembers masking settings.

Most people don't have their projector a foot over their screen height.

If you have any tips to get my lens memory to work property, let me know, it's constantly 2-3" too low. Even after I re-save it, it still comes back too low.

The JVC is not perfect, but tell me where you would mount the Panny in this setup.

Room 14'W x 17'D x 9' H
First row 10'
2nd row 16' (basically on back wall)
Riser height 16" Starts right behind first row)
Screen size 51" x 120" (2.35 aspect ratio)
Mounting the screen so that the first row viewers eyes are 1/3rd up the screen, places the image starting 26" off the floor. This is also the lowest you can mount the screen and still have correct sight lines from the second row.
Top of image is 77" above first level.
Top of image is 61" above riser.

The Panny throw range for this screen is 13'-6" to 20'-6". This means the projector has to be mounted above the riser. The top of the image is only 61" above the riser. This means the projector will have to be mounted right above the second row at the back wall and the bottom of the projector is only 48" above the riser. When I sit upright in my theater seating, the top of my head is 48.5". So to mount the projector in this room is going to be a problem. This is a typical dedicated room layout. To get this projector to work in a room with two rows of seating, you have to start off with compromises of screen height to eye height. I don't like that compromise just for one projector, especially since, that projector will be changed out in two or three years.

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post #2231 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 05:43 PM
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I will have to disagree - most HT installs require mounting the projector on the ceiling with the lens above the screen.

My lens memory works perfectly so I am not sure what you mean it comes back "too low". Maybe you have a defective unit?

Also, what do you mean by setting the masking? Do you mean switching aspect ratios?
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

The Panasonic implementation is better. Yes, the JVC may be more flexible for installation, but my RS46 constantly needs adjustment to line up properly when switching screen modes and I always have to dig through menus to set the masking for 2.40:1, the Panasonic is precise and remembers masking settings.

Most people don't have their projector a foot over their screen height.

If you have any tips to get my lens memory to work property, let me know, it's constantly 2-3" too low. Even after I re-save it, it still comes back too low.
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post #2232 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 05:44 PM
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That explains it, thanks for the note. That is a severe limitation of not being able to mount the projector out of the way.
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The zoom and focus are motorized but the shift is electronic (and vertical only).
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post #2233 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by gravi View Post

My lens memory works perfectly so I am not sure what you mean it comes back "too low". Maybe you have a defective unit?
I don't want image over-spill (where the projected image is on the screen frame), I want as much as possible on the screen, so there is only maybe a half inch on the top and bottom where the projected image is on the border in 2.35:1 mode, of the lens position drifts even 1 inch, the projected image doesn't fill the screen, in my case, the screen position usually comes back a few inches too low.
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Also, what do you mean by setting the masking? Do you mean switching aspect ratios?
Going back to my earlier overspill statement, when when projecting 2.40:1 content on a 2.35:1 screen, there is a couple inches of overspill on the left and right side. The projector can electronically 'mask' that projected image keeping the actual image on the screen only. Panasonic ties the Masking into their Lens Memory so I don't have to turn it on and off it in the menu each time.

The fact that you don't know what masking is tells me you probably have a considerable amount of overspill and wouldn't notice of your projector drifted.

Set your 2.35:1 image to the smallest possible projected image height to fill your screen. Save the lens memory position, switch to 1.78 and then back to the 2.35:1 tell me if it lines up perfectly again.
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post #2234 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 09:19 PM
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I agree with you on some of it but where I think the 0-255 comes into play is madvr. I'm no expert on this so I can easily be wrong.

But from what I was reading yes JVC is pretty accurate at contrast and brightness. Thing is everyone is saying don't make the adjustment on the pc side. I didn't see anyone say using the nvidia control panel to do that.

I'm sure someone else can chime in with some better knowledge then us though.

The meter side is getting tough I keep running into really stupid problems now like my laptop reads my meter but my desktop hcfr won't. Little things keep pushing me back.

It's not as easy as I thought it would be to learn but I'm learning more and more everyday thanks to the great people on this forum

@Holiday121, I think I should be able to help you here somewhat, as I've done quite a few calibrations with the exact same hardware and software that you're using, including creating 3DLUTs for use with madVR.

I'll start by addressing the 0-255 / 16-235 range issue...

99% of consumer video content today is encoded in 8-bits, using a limited range of values. Video Black is defined as level 16, Video White is defined as 235, anything outside these ranges is not technically considered part of the signal, but is left their for historical reasons, and headroom. So the content on a Blu-ray Disc or a TV broadcast shouldn't have information below 16, or above 235, and these video playback devices pass this limited range out over HDMI to the display device, usually in a YCbCr format.

A PC graphics card works in the RGB colour space, rather than YCbCr, and typically uses the full range of digital values when sending an output over DVI-D. HDMI is fully compatible with DVI-D, and is therefore able to carry an 8-bit RGB full range signal from your PC to your display device. The default ouput from a PC is therefore full range (0-255).

Clearly there is a mis-match between video content, and the PC Graphics system, both in terms of the levels used (limited vs full range) and the colour space (YCbCr vs RGB). The conversion from the original video YCbCr signal to RGB is a complex matrix transformation, which will always result in floating point numbers. To put this another way, YCbCr value 190,84,221 will not translate to an exact 8-bit RGB set of values (I can't be bothered to do the maths, but it's not that difficult to calculate). Most devices that perform these transforms (including almost all displays, since most displays work on the basis of Red, Green and Blue sub-pixels) do so at a higher bit-depth than the input, and then use some complex algorithms to map down to the required RGB bit-depth. In your PC, the processes will typically look something like this:

YCbCr 8-bit limited range -> RGB 16-bit full range -> RGB 8-bit full range

The difference between a full range RGB signal (16,777,216 possible values) and a limited range signal (10,503,459 possible values) is 6,273,757. That's more than 50% more possible digital values to represent your image. Depending on the image processing and the quality of the YCbCr matrix conversion, these additional values could reduce the banding in an image, or the noise created by any dithering that would be applied to hide banding.

To put it very simply (but also to miss the point), setting your graphics card to full range will stretch the input signal from limited range to full range. The down side to this is that you will not see any information below level 16 or above 235; this shouldn't be a problem because that information should technically not be there anyway.

Setting your graphics card to output 16-235 will compress the full range signal that the PC is working in into 16-235, almost certainly reducing image quality. Any player renderer that you're using will still be rendering to full range, because it's the video card that is compressing the signal back down to limited range. Setting the PC to limited range is not simply passing the signal through un-touched, as described above.

Your X35 / RS46 should be set to 'Standard' if you have a Blu-ray player or STB connected, and 'Enhanced' if you're using an HTPC. I personally wouldn't recommend ever using the 'Super White' setting, because as I've stated several times, there shouldn't be any information above 235 anyway, and you'll be sacrificing brightness by reserving the full white of the projector for a signal that probably is never there.
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post #2235 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post

I don't want image over-spill (where the projected image is on the screen frame), I want as much as possible on the screen, so there is only maybe a half inch on the top and bottom where the projected image is on the border in 2.35:1 mode, of the lens position drifts even 1 inch, the projected image doesn't fill the screen, in my case, the screen position usually comes back a few inches too low.
Going back to my earlier overspill statement, when when projecting 2.40:1 content on a 2.35:1 screen, there is a couple inches of overspill on the left and right side. The projector can electronically 'mask' that projected image keeping the actual image on the screen only. Panasonic ties the Masking into their Lens Memory so I don't have to turn it on and off it in the menu each time.

The fact that you don't know what masking is tells me you probably have a considerable amount of overspill and wouldn't notice of your projector drifted.

Set your 2.35:1 image to the smallest possible projected image height to fill your screen. Save the lens memory position, switch to 1.78 and then back to the 2.35:1 tell me if it lines up perfectly again.

On my 4910 I have very little overspill (eg 0.5 inch or less) on the top and bottom of the 16:9 image of my CIH setup. I haven't had to readjust in the 4 months of switching to/from 2.35 to 1.78 several times a week. Sorry to hear your unit isn't tracking so consistently.

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post #2236 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jjcook View Post

^^ The Panasonic unit has motorized zoom but not lens shift. It shifts the image in the panel to simulate lens shift, but for a more limited placement offset.

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Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post

The zoom and focus are motorized but the shift is electronic (and vertical only).

ah, ic, that makes sense. so as long as no horizontal shift is needed you're good to go(well with limited vertical shift I guess).

yeah, that certainly seems like a good option, but I need horizontal shift, so I guess it wouldn't have worked for me anyway

as for the lens 'drift' with the jvc. on a 120" screen and 19ish foot throw. I usually see about a 5 or so pixel drift horizontally on mine. the vertical and zoom/focus seem to be bang on for me, but I think for one of my settings the vertical shift is actually maxed out, so it couldn't physically go lower than it is anyway.

IF I was able to do a half inch of overspill without it being super obvious on my border I would, and it would totally solve my problem. unfortunately, with my screen, anything wider than the thickness of the green lines(of the built in pattern) is noticeable, and bothers me. most of the movies I watch are scope, so I don't have to switch often. but just about every time I do, I need to shift it a couple pixels one way or the other. but definitely not 'inches'

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post #2237 of 2367 Old 05-29-2014, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

JVC Settings as of right now with those readings

Picture Mode= Natural
Contrast Brightness Color Tint all at 0
Color Temp Custom 1 with readings of
Gain Red -1
Gain Green -11
Gain Blue -8
Offset Red -11
Offset Green 3
Offset Blue -1

Color Space Standard
Custom 3 Gama 2.6
Lens Aperture 0
Lamp Power Low
HDMI Is set to Enhanced because when using HTPC That's the only way black lvls will show 17+,,, If I used a standard Bluray player the flashed in both super white and Standard
Color Space Auto
Control with HDMI On

For My black lvl I have it set at 3 because that's when both boxes look black

Your settings don't look way off, but I think you're trying to do too much too soon. I'll try and explain as best I can, but do feel free to ask questions.

Black Level

First off, the 'Black Level' setting is not intended to be a picture adjustment in the traditional sense. The purpose of this setting is so that you can compensate for ambient light present in your room. If the Black Level is at its lowest, but your room is fairly bright, the darkest areas of the image will be washed out by the ambient light in the room; the Black Level setting raises the darkest black that the projector produces so that this level of light being reflected off your screen is equal to the ambient light in your room.

This really is a clever setting, but it does work by reducing the contrast ratio of your image. If you're using this setting at anything other than the lowest setting, it's a good job you bought JVC's entry level product because you would get zero contrast ratio benefit by moving to a higher range model.

Calibration

There is no doubt about it, calibration does have a fairly steep learning curve. Unfortunately, you've really jumped in at the deep end, because you're starting with a projector.

Projection images are affected so much by the environment around them and this can really complicate things. If you use a large test patch for example, some of the light reflecting off your screen will bounce off the furniture, walls, ceiling and floor back onto your screen.

One approach that I must admit I've not tried myself, is to calibrate the projector by taking readings direction into the projection beam, rather than off the screen. It's important to start by taking readings of your colour primaries reflected off the screen and into the lens, and then create a correction matrix that will end up being applied to your readings as you go on (this will also correct for any influence on colour that your screen has). The big benefit to this approach is that your meter will be far better at reading the darkest light levels your projector is able to produce if it's pointed directly at the lens!

I would strongly advise starting your calibration learning by using an LCD TV if possible. Any direct view TV will be easier than a projector, but Plasmas have their own issues that need to be considered.

Your JVC Projector

I would start by playing the basic 'Black Clipping' and 'White Clipping' files from the AVS Test Disc in madVR, and making sure that you're not seeing anything below level 16 or above 235.

Following this, using a small test patch (ideally using the madTPG and ColorHCFR combination with madTPG set to the smallest patch and a black background), use the White Point controls to try to correct the white point as best as you can with 80% and 30% grey patches.

Finally, do a greyscale sweep (still using the smallest test patches possible) of the same number of points adjustment in the custom gamma setting, which I believe is 20 points. ColorHCFR will then show you how much you need to adjust the white point and brightness at each point. You then need to go through each point in the JVC OSD adjusting, re-testing, re-adjusting, re-testing etc. until you get closer to a perfect white point and gamma curve.

In a decent viewing environment the black level that the JVC projectors is capable of is almost zero, and a BT.1886 gamma curve will therefore result in something almost exactly a 2.4 power curve. If you're viewing in a bat cave, this will probably work well for you, but if your walls, ceiling, floors or furniture are reflecting some of the light, you might want to go closer to a 2.3 or 2.2 power curve.

The JVC X35 / RS46 does not have adjustments for RGBYCM, so there really isn't much you can do. The adjustments I've talked through will get you 90% of the way to a perfect calibration, and this is what @Zombie10k was saying.

madVR 3DLUT

To get even closer to perfection, a 3DLUT created with madVR and ArgyllCMS should be able to bring your colour saturations slightly more in line.

It is possible to perform the entire calibration with a 3DLUT, avoiding the need for the time consuming white point and gamma settings that I talked about above, I wouldn't recommend this however. The projector itself is making changes to its output image in at least 10-bit resolution (as indicated by the OSD adjustments); madVR is working with the 8-bit output of the PC however, which gives it less digital values to play with. It might be worth checking the results of a White Point / Gamma / 3DLUT Calibration vs just a 3DLUT Calibration, but my instincts tell me that the former is likely to be slightly better.

I have to be honest here though... The primaries and saturations of the JVC X35 / RS46 are so close to correct, that most people would be unable to tell the difference between a White Point / Gamma calibration, and one that also included a 3DLUT correction. I'm not trying to say that the madVR 3DLUT is un-necessary (it's quite possibly the most powerful image correction solution for consumers available), just that it is far more beneficial, and necessary, when the display is more off to begin with.

Other sources

One significant advantage to going the White Point / Gamma / 3DLUT route, is that your White Point / Gamma calibration should be perfect for any other video source that you're planning to use.

Now that we're in the digital era, there shouldn't be any need to change your calibration between devices, including between a PC running full level RGB vs a Blu-ray player running limited range YCbCr (assuming you have the levels set correctly of course).

I am doing exactly this in fact, I have a single calibration that I use for my Chromecast, Sony Blu-ray player and HTPC; the only difference being the HDMI levels setting (Enhanced for HTPC, Standard for others). I've used test discs in the Blu-ray player and the raw files on my HTPC; the results are basically identical regardless of source - just as it should be.
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post #2238 of 2367 Old 06-05-2014, 07:39 AM
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Is input lag really as high as 80ms? at HDTV they say its only 45ms I was going to get this projector but then I was put off by the input lag I could handle 45ms the LG OLED i have now is 55ms and I have no problems with that.

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/jvc-x35-201302052614.htm
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post #2239 of 2367 Old 06-05-2014, 08:10 AM
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Yes, in fact the new next models up, eg the X500/RS49, have even higher input lag of around 120 ms.

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post #2240 of 2367 Old 06-05-2014, 08:11 AM
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Wow really that high on the new models ?
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post #2241 of 2367 Old 06-05-2014, 08:55 AM
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I have played Battlefront, COD, and numerous other online games as well as other people over at my place and not one of us have noticed lag at all FWIW.

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post #2242 of 2367 Old 06-05-2014, 08:55 AM
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Oh well I guess I'll get the Sony HW40ES then.
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post #2243 of 2367 Old 06-05-2014, 09:06 AM
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Oh well I guess I'll get the Sony HW40ES then.

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post #2244 of 2367 Old 06-05-2014, 12:09 PM
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Is input lag really as high as 80ms? at HDTV they say its only 45ms I was going to get this projector but then I was put off by the input lag I could handle 45ms the LG OLED i have now is 55ms and I have no problems with that.

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/jvc-x35-201302052614.htm

when I tested my displays, bear with me cause it was two tests.

I used an old lcd tv, presumably one that has more than 0ms of lag as my 'baseline'. my f8500 measured roughly 110-120ms HIGHER than the lcd. in a second test I compared my f8500 to the x35 and the x35 was 40ms faster than the f8500. so by my math, the x35 is somewhere between 70-80ms more than the lcd tv. so even if the lcd tv had only 10ms of lag, a figure of 80ms for the jvc is about right. it's definitely not faster than that, I'm sure.

that was why I recommended the sony. 40ish ms should be fine for most games and most gamers. 80ms is fine for casual gamers, or games where you can adjust your timing easily.

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post #2245 of 2367 Old 06-11-2014, 10:19 PM
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The time is drawing near for me to order a replacement lamp for the RS46. I see two variations, the PK-L2312UG, and the JVC PK-L2312UP. The JVC site says one is for the RS46, the other is for the X35, which is basically the same machine. Anyone know if the bulbs are indeed interchangeable? And I see others that are plain JVC PK-L2312U.


I ask because I found one quite a bit cheaper than the other, and it says that's the one for the X35. :-\

The more things change, the more they stay the same.

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post #2246 of 2367 Old 06-12-2014, 02:04 AM
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The time is drawing near for me to order a replacement lamp for the RS46. I see two variations, the PK-L2312UG, and the JVC PK-L2312UP. The JVC site says one is for the RS46, the other is for the X35, which is basically the same machine. Anyone know if the bulbs are indeed interchangeable? And I see others that are plain JVC PK-L2312U.


I ask because I found one quite a bit cheaper than the other, and it says that's the one for the X35. :-\
How many hours did you have with the lamp? Thanks!
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post #2247 of 2367 Old 06-12-2014, 09:32 AM
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How many hours did you have with the lamp? Thanks!
Actually I'm just over 3100 hours, I've been getting a replace lamp warning since the 3000 hour mark. I'm considering waiting until the bulb goes out.

The image is still plenty bright on low lamp mode, course I'm on a 120" high power screen. Only problem with that idea is being without the projector for a week.
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post #2248 of 2367 Old 06-12-2014, 10:30 AM
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Actually I'm just over 3100 hours, I've been getting a replace lamp warning since the 3000 hour mark. I'm considering waiting until the bulb goes out.

The image is still plenty bright on low lamp mode, course I'm on a 120" high power screen. Only problem with that idea is being without the projector for a week.
You could always buy the lamp now, and not install it until later.
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post #2249 of 2367 Old 06-12-2014, 10:33 AM
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You could always buy the lamp now, and not install it until later.
Or buy a new one, install it and keep the old one as a spare in case you ever have a lamp failure.

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post #2250 of 2367 Old 06-12-2014, 10:40 AM
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You could always buy the lamp now, and not install it until later.
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Or buy a new one, install it and keep the old one as a spare in case you ever have a lamp failure.
Agree with Walter. It's important to use a new lamp within the warranty/return period. Ask me how I know...
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