Originally Posted by nathan_h
Thanks for sharing. Always cool to see the details of such a process and the measured results.
Do you mean you COULDN'T turn down blue enough and COULDN'T fix both?
with the current settings(I'm not sure yet if changing the starting gamma, or color temp may help) i was at my limit for how much i could decrease the blue level. the only way i could make the blue push go away, was by turning up the green and red.
think of the colors being adjustable on a -10 to +10 scale. the blue was already at -10 and still had a HUGE blue push. the only way to fix it was to crank up the green and red to like +8.
after doing this, i tried moving the 'white' setting back down, but it would only adjust the red and green back down. blue was literally at it's minimum value.
i may try doing it again sometime, but starting with 6000k color temp. the only thing is, values 0-70% were all very LOW in blue, so may run into an issue with too much red push in the lower levels
i had some issues because my contrast was too low(which apparently shifts the calibration points) but these were my first results, with the lens aperture fully open. everything else was the same including color temp.
Originally Posted by nathan_h
That is weird, though admittedly, the reason for a bat cave is because at reference light levels there will be spill into the room and one wants the room to "soak it up"
my room is dark by anybody's standards other than home theater enthusiasts
dark blue carpet, black leather seats, black ceiling, black walls with dark blue two tone, all flat paint. guess velvet needs to be on the to-do list. but the other issue, and the reason i first closed up the iris is that my screen looks terrible during bright scenes. i never had the issue with my old Epson projector, but the jvc's been much brighter and suddenly my screen was covered in 'sparklies' and texture. closing the iris hid a lot of it. after doing it for that reason though, i found i really liked the darker blacks and never really felt it looked 'dim' to me. i mean, if the jvc was only getting 5ftl off the screen, there's no way my old Epson was more than 3ftl! haha.
but I'm still not totally convinced I'm getting the 'right' light levels measured. the projector central calculator predicts a brightness of 23ftl, but the highest i could muster was around 14. i didn't check in high lamp though, but i honestly find it a subtle change, there's way more change from the iris than the lamp. i should check, but if I'm getting 14 with low lamp, I'm betting it's like 17-18 in high lamp.
when i type all that out, i guess it starts to make sense. but I'm still shocked, because i hear most ppl talk about 10-12ftl like it's pathetically dim, yet I've been sitting there watching about 5ftl, and thinking it's a HUGE step up from the local theater... I've had a dozen or so others watch movies, and all seemed impressed too. i even watched a 3D one time only opening up the iris slightly(so still under 10ftl)
for me personally, i think the most interesting thing is finding out what aspects actually matter the most to me. before doing any of this, i figured blacks, on/off contrast, ansi contrast, resolution, color was what i cared about(in order). I've had a f8500 and the x35 for a little over a year now, and i have no doubt that i preferred the image i saw on the x35 to the f8500. keeping in mind the things each was doing well, and not well, it would appear what ACTUALLY matters to me is: black level(mll), and then in the distant 2nd to last place, on/off contrast, resolution, color, gamma, and ansi contrast. definitely not what you'll read anywhere that I've found.
even though i decided i preferred the picture the projector scored worse in everything except mll
mll: .005(although this wasn't measured consistently, a lot of times it was too low to read)
the f8500 tracked color better ootb too, AND has a cms to perfect it. it'll be interesting to see which one i prefer AFTER calibrating. the x35 looks better now, but the f8500 looks like a new tv.