Official JVC DLA-RS46 / DLA-X35 owners thread - Page 81 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2401 of 2507 Old 01-07-2015, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I'd encourage you to explore the menus. Pretty obvious.

The Iris is a menu setting, and all the way up the picture is brighter, all the way down it's dimmer.

There are 2 lamp modes. One is near silent and dimmer, the other louder and brighter.

Obviously, brightness is the key for 3D. The new JVC projectors better get brighter.
By Iris do you mean "Lens Aperture"? I can't find the Iris setting in the menu... (RS46)

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post #2402 of 2507 Old 01-07-2015, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsgrise View Post
By Iris do you mean "Lens Aperture"? I can't find the Iris setting in the menu... (RS46)
You found it.
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post #2403 of 2507 Old 01-08-2015, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I'd encourage you to explore the menus. Pretty obvious.

The Iris is a menu setting, and all the way up the picture is brighter, all the way down it's dimmer.

There are 2 lamp modes. One is near silent and dimmer, the other louder and brighter.

Obviously, brightness is the key for 3D. The new JVC projectors better get brighter.
Thanks, yeah I'm lazy at times .. I'll trying to find them tonight
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post #2404 of 2507 Old 01-08-2015, 08:16 AM
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Can you guys also suggest which ceiling mount to use with this projector ?
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post #2405 of 2507 Old 01-09-2015, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ahmadka View Post
Can you guys also suggest which ceiling mount to use with this projector ?
^^^ Can someone please answer this ? Also, what's the difference between Chief RPA281 and SLB281 ? Do I need to buy both or just any one of the two (but which one ?) .. ?

I plan to hang the projector vertically from the ceiling ..
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post #2406 of 2507 Old 01-12-2015, 06:36 PM
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You need both pieces, I came down with a 9" nipple and both pieces attach together..Definitely a 2 man job. I was dead center to my screen..Used a 1 1/2" flange lag bolted to ceiling joist. 100" screen about 14' away.. hope this helps

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post #2407 of 2507 Old 01-13-2015, 01:04 AM
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Okay, I thought the plate (SLB281) attached to the ceiling, and then the vertical pipe attached to that ..

How does the pipe attach to the ceiling then ?

Also, doesn't the plate come already included with RPA281 ? Example: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...tor_Mount.html
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post #2408 of 2507 Old 01-13-2015, 08:23 AM
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My mount came with both pieces, just make sure when you buy it. As I said in the post, I mounted a 1 1/2" flange to the ceiling joist with 2 lag bolts. I don't remember what size bolts I got, get the flange first then ask salesperson about what size: 3/4", 1/2" etc. I used 4" and you will only be able to catch 2. Put a level on pj after its done to make sure you are right on with leveling..I dont know how far down you have to go with pj, mine worked out at 9"..Hope this helps, enjoy your Projector!!
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post #2409 of 2507 Old 01-21-2015, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Sorry to hear that!

Please keep us updated with your repair. I am very interested in the JVC service experience.

I also might suggest taking lots of pictures of your unit before sending it off. I don't know anything about JVC but Panasonic PHYSICALLY damaged my last projector...and didn't even fix it!
Got my projector back, they couldn't reproduce the problem, we tried using both internal and external sources. Fortunately( as they claimed), in the process of testing, the video board gone bad and was replaced! Got it back and had to re-calibrate anything! The problem still there. I am going to live with it. It definitely some kind of reflection from some way, which I could't figured it out. In dark scene, its fine. Watch it at about 45 degree, the lines disappeared! Thanks for any advice and suggestions!
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post #2410 of 2507 Old 01-21-2015, 04:09 PM
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Got my projector back, they couldn't reproduce the problem
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Originally Posted by richmond5 View Post
The problem still there.
Pretty sure this is the result of 99% of all devices sent in for repair from every company. Along with the line "We've never heard of that problem before"

Incompetence.
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post #2411 of 2507 Old 01-27-2015, 08:51 AM
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Hey guys, just ran over 110 hours on my x35 and thought its about a time to do a calibration. Bought a i1D3 meter, installed HCFR and done some tests over a weekend. Tweaked as much as I could according to the instructions on CurtPalme website. So. Apart from RGB graph everythings way off the reference lines. Just posted them all in other thread and member named Zoyd said that it looks like somethings wrong with gamma and a member with same projector could tell more. Hoping to get some info which way to look. Thanks!
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post #2412 of 2507 Old 01-28-2015, 11:42 AM
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yeah, you need to fix the gamma. most of the presets are WAY off. I think the 2.2-2.6 presets are at least close to flat. I started with 2.6 for mine, which was closest to a flat 2.4 gamma, and I was able to adjust it to bt1886

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post #2413 of 2507 Old 01-29-2015, 05:58 AM
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yeah, you need to fix the gamma. most of the presets are WAY off. I think the 2.2-2.6 presets are at least close to flat. I started with 2.6 for mine, which was closest to a flat 2.4 gamma, and I was able to adjust it to bt1886

Sorry for a noobish question but how do you fixed your gamma? I thought everything I needed to know was in that instruction on curtpalme website.
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post #2414 of 2507 Old 01-29-2015, 08:52 AM
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Sorry for a noobish question but how do you fixed your gamma? I thought everything I needed to know was in that instruction on curtpalme website.
you've got HCFR right?


set your gamma to 2.6, and run a 10pt pass. make sure it's reasonably close to 2.4ish
mine 'default' 2.6 looked like this:

I don't remember which one this was, maybe C, but most of the letters have a nasty curve to start



then look at each point, if it's below the target line, then lower the WHITE at that point. if it's above your target, then raise the WHITE at that point. I found with the x35, the adjustments are very small, so it's not unusual to have to move it 20 or 30 'ticks'. still, best to take your time and go slow.


you can either re-run the full sweep after each set of adjustments and keep adjusting 'by eye' that way. or you can look at the target Y values, and try to match those at each point. at the end, you'll still want to run the full sweep to make sure.

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Last edited by fierce_gt; 01-29-2015 at 08:59 AM.
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post #2415 of 2507 Old 02-01-2015, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
you've got HCFR right?


set your gamma to 2.6, and run a 10pt pass. make sure it's reasonably close to 2.4ish
mine 'default' 2.6 looked like this:

I don't remember which one this was, maybe C, but most of the letters have a nasty curve to start



then look at each point, if it's below the target line, then lower the WHITE at that point. if it's above your target, then raise the WHITE at that point. I found with the x35, the adjustments are very small, so it's not unusual to have to move it 20 or 30 'ticks'. still, best to take your time and go slow.


you can either re-run the full sweep after each set of adjustments and keep adjusting 'by eye' that way. or you can look at the target Y values, and try to match those at each point. at the end, you'll still want to run the full sweep to make sure.
Thank you so much for help, everything's now pretty much where it supposed to be. I don't know if it was a good thing to do but I ignored luminance and rgb graphs until I got gamma spot ot. Then it was way easier to adjust everything what's left. Off to see a movie! Thanks guys.
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post #2416 of 2507 Old 02-01-2015, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Gediminas Jarulaitis View Post
Thank you so much for help, everything's now pretty much where it supposed to be. I don't know if it was a good thing to do but I ignored luminance and rgb graphs until I got gamma spot ot. Then it was way easier to adjust everything what's left. Off to see a movie! Thanks guys.
I think the first time I calibrated, I did RGB balance first, then gamma, then double checked RGB, then double checked gamma, haha. they do interact a bit, but I don't think there's a better one to start with. either way you'll likely have to look at them at least twice, making the major changes on the first round, and minor tweaks on the second.

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post #2417 of 2507 Old 02-03-2015, 02:13 PM
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I think the first time I calibrated, I did RGB balance first, then gamma, then double checked RGB, then double checked gamma, haha. they do interact a bit, but I don't think there's a better one to start with. either way you'll likely have to look at them at least twice, making the major changes on the first round, and minor tweaks on the second.
Hey its me again. Really don't want to bother you too much with probably most basic questions, but emmm... Watched couple movies after calibration and I can see that theres too much blue in dark scenes. I mean. I remember that color temperature graph looked like an huge U letter and was not flat. But everything else was pretty good so I just kinda left it hanging out there. I think its back to drawing board again. So is there any ways to fix that, assuming that x35 does not have a CMS. Thanks!
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post #2418 of 2507 Old 02-04-2015, 12:44 AM
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At last! I finished reading all posts of this thread.

I started back in December when I got my X35 (2nd hand) and kept reading a few pages at a time.
Every time I came across something useful to me I kept it in a separate word document so that I don't get lost.

There are some useful information in here and I would like to thank everyone that added to it.
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Last edited by Shortneck; 02-04-2015 at 12:48 AM.
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post #2419 of 2507 Old 02-04-2015, 08:51 AM
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At last! I finished reading all posts of this thread.

I started back in December when I got my X35 (2nd hand) and kept reading a few pages at a time.
Every time I came across something useful to me I kept it in a separate word document so that I don't get lost.

There are some useful information in here and I would like to thank everyone that added to it.
Aww, I wish you had saved a link to each useful post so you could share thread highlights with everyone!

Welcome to the X35 club.
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post #2420 of 2507 Old 02-05-2015, 01:19 AM
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Thanks.

Even though I haven't saved links, I don't mind sharing the word doc with all the info I found useful.

Attached!
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post #2421 of 2507 Old 02-05-2015, 04:21 PM
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Hey its me again. Really don't want to bother you too much with probably most basic questions, but emmm... Watched couple movies after calibration and I can see that theres too much blue in dark scenes. I mean. I remember that color temperature graph looked like an huge U letter and was not flat. But everything else was pretty good so I just kinda left it hanging out there. I think its back to drawing board again. So is there any ways to fix that, assuming that x35 does not have a CMS. Thanks!
that sounds more like an issue with the RGB grayscale. in the custom gamma adjust the red, green and blue separately to try and get the best gray scale you can. the lack of CMS is unlikely the issue here. or else you'd see it all the time I think.


based on this: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...p;d=1422377468
I'd say moving the blue down a couple ticks, and the red up a couple ticks at 5% and 10% should help your problem

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Last edited by fierce_gt; 02-05-2015 at 04:25 PM.
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post #2422 of 2507 Old 02-11-2015, 08:18 PM
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Question in regard to the characteristic of a aging light source for X35. The clock reads around 820 hours. The lamp is still at low with aperture setting at one notch before max. I just did a color calibration and notice the blue is really dropping fast. Is it normal ? Any input is welcomed!
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post #2423 of 2507 Old 02-12-2015, 08:27 AM
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Welcome to the X35 club.
I've just joined too - well, indirectly! My friend just bought an X35 and I am responsible for installation and calibration.

I have CalMan 5.2.3 and was able to AutoCal using the RS232 port, but I saw an option for Ethernet in the software. I know the SpectraCal documentation says we must use RS232 for internal patterns (JVC limitation) but just wanted to make sure this was still true. Is the LAN connection supported for AutoCal or not?

PS - I asked on the SpectraCal forum but got no reply. My understanding is JVC is in control of what interfaces can be used so it is better to ask here I guess. Maybe there is a firmware update to be had?

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post #2424 of 2507 Old 02-16-2015, 06:40 AM
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Hello everyone!

About to buy my first front projector. I am a bit on a budget, with $3k being the highest price I would consider for a projector. I think I might be able to get the DLA-X35B for dealer cost.

However, I have to be honest, JVC is the last projector I have been considering, though it rates higher than most on picture and black levels.

You see, I am 3D guru. I run a website where I review 3D films. I have well over 100 titles. 3D is my primary purpose for a projector.

So, from all the reviews I have read on the JVC, it seems that other projectors overshadow the JVC on 3D because of brightness levels.

Right now, the Epson 5030UB and Sony HW55ES are the two frontrunners.

Thought I would come here first, however, and find out what actual JVC owners thought of the 3D output on their projector. I am looking for a bright 3D picture -- because that format needs as much luminance behind it as possible.

Thank you in advance.
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post #2425 of 2507 Old 02-16-2015, 02:34 PM
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Each has it strengths and weaknesses but if 3D is a priority Epson is the clear cut winner, it has the brightest 3D modes and the least amount of ghosting for a non-DLP projector.
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post #2426 of 2507 Old 02-16-2015, 03:48 PM
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Hello everyone!

About to buy my first front projector. I am a bit on a budget, with $3k being the highest price I would consider for a projector. I think I might be able to get the DLA-X35B for dealer cost.

However, I have to be honest, JVC is the last projector I have been considering, though it rates higher than most on picture and black levels.

You see, I am 3D guru. I run a website where I review 3D films. I have well over 100 titles. 3D is my primary purpose for a projector.

So, from all the reviews I have read on the JVC, it seems that other projectors overshadow the JVC on 3D because of brightness levels.

Right now, the Epson 5030UB and Sony HW55ES are the two frontrunners.

Thought I would come here first, however, and find out what actual JVC owners thought of the 3D output on their projector. I am looking for a bright 3D picture -- because that format needs as much luminance behind it as possible.

Thank you in advance.
I watch quite a few 3D Blu-rays on my RS46 (identical to the X35), and find it to be very good indeed. There are a number of things to think about though, and just focussing on which is the brighter projector may not get you the best result.

3D glasses themselves obviously reduce the amount of light entering your eyes, but I don't find that to be an issue. I actually think it results in an improvement of the already fantastic black levels that the X35 is able to produce, and I very quickly get used to the lower peak brightness.

I find that the black level is the most critical aspect of image reproduction, and I therefore run with the iris as small as possible for 2D content (which gives the best contrast ratio), and then wide open for 3D content with glasses.

In my experience, the impact of your image quality will be affected something like this:
  1. Room Treatment
  2. Projector
  3. Screen

If your room is totally un-treated, and by that I mean that the walls, ceiling, carpets and furniture are all light coloured, then a brighter projector will wash out the image all the more, because there is that much more light reflecting around the room.

Assuming your room has some treatment to avoid reflections back onto the screen, and your screen is not deliberately reducing the light level to try to improve perceived contrast ratio (a grey screen), then I think that the JVC projectors are more than bright enough.

As a slight aside, though very much related... If the sides of your viewing environment are lightly coloured, then you're much much more likely to see reflected light off the walls in your peripheral vision at the sides, rather than through your 3D glasses.

The perception of flickering is greatly increased when you can see light both through your 3D glasses, and out the sides. I personally prefer the Panasonic glasses over the Samsung's for this reason. The Panasonic's have a much wider arm, therefore blocking more light out the sides.

That's my 2c anyway...
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post #2427 of 2507 Old 02-16-2015, 03:50 PM
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Oh, and I should add that I never use the high power lamp mode - too noisy!
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post #2428 of 2507 Old 02-16-2015, 04:06 PM
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Nezil,

What a really great reply to read.

Well, the problem is, I am basically going to use a projector in a mostly untreated room.



The room is now completely clean. All furniture removed.

It will be carpeted. The white ceiling tiles will be replaced with black ones.

The only thing that will remain is the paneling. That is the part that concerns me. Light will probably reflect off of that.

I don't have the money to rip it out. I was told black fabric covering may be a good idea. Don't know how to do it myself.

So, for the moment, I think that will be the only distraction in the room. There is no window. Completely black.
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post #2429 of 2507 Old 02-17-2015, 11:27 AM
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Nezil,

What a really great reply to read.

Well, the problem is, I am basically going to use a projector in a mostly untreated room.

The room is now completely clean. All furniture removed.

It will be carpeted. The white ceiling tiles will be replaced with black ones.

The only thing that will remain is the paneling. That is the part that concerns me. Light will probably reflect off of that.

I don't have the money to rip it out. I was told black fabric covering may be a good idea. Don't know how to do it myself.

So, for the moment, I think that will be the only distraction in the room. There is no window. Completely black.
Well it's a small space by the look of it, which will effectively enhance the issues, because the screen will be close to the walls, ceiling and floor. It's great that you're replacing the roof tiles, and putting down carpet (a dark colour I hope!).

If you're on a budget, then I'd start with those changes and see how it looks. The real test is to show an ANSI contrast pattern (Black and white checkerboard) and then see how bad the black squares are effected by the fact that half the screen is effectively white. Even the best setups cannot get too high a contrast ratio here, but little changes can make big improvements initially.

Still sticking with the low budget approach, I'd perhaps cover the first 3 feet of the walls and ceiling with black velvet, and the following 3 ~ 6 feet of the walls with a flat black cloth. Your ceiling is already going to be black, so it won't need anything past the velvet. You can staple, velcro, glue or otherwise hang the cloth, but keep in mind that velvet is quite heavy.

Jo-Ann Fabrics sells black velvet, and they have a black cloth called 'Home Essentials' that I think I used. I also found that Ikea makes some great black curtains that are cheap, called 'Ritva'. I used these with their 'Dignitet' hanging wire to rig up a kind of black tent around my screen.

If you hunt through my previous posts, you'll find some photos and results of my work. I'm afraid I don't have time to do that now, or I'd post up a link for you.

Best of luck whichever projector you choose, but I'd go with the JVC because it's better in almost every way, other than brightness. I think I read somewhere that once you calibrate the brighter projectors, they're about the same as the JVC anyway!
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post #2430 of 2507 Old 02-17-2015, 11:50 AM
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I'd also recommend the jvc. I'm not entirely sure under what situations the Epson actually gets brighter, but it appears from all the reviews I've read that the jvc has basically the same(if not slightly higher) calibrated lumens. the sony is brighter, and would be my next choice well before the Epson.


I'm not a fan of 3d, I actually quite hate it, but I've viewed a couple movies in 3D on my jvc, and brightness was not at all an issue. I'm using a 120" screen, so if you are going bigger, then you might run into troubles.


I'm no expert, by any means, but if pressed, I'd say the 3d experience on my jvc was about the same as in a movie theater. the image quality is slightly better on the jvc, the crosstalk slightly worse.


I was actually part of a bachelor party a couple weeks ago, and the first thing we did was rent out a local movie theater for 2hrs to play video games on it. it was neat, cause I got a chance to really examine the screen, and the theater in general. to sum up, it was all very disappointing, haha. Anyway, after that experience I have no more doubts that the x35 in my basement provides a better image than the commercial theater does. you really give up a TON of quality when you try to go too big or too bright. in some ways it's like the comparison between plasma and lcd. you can have a great looking image, or you can have a super bright one.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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