EPSON 6020 Owner Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 144 Old 07-04-2013, 12:32 AM
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didnt notice here is owners thread for 6020 smile.gif sorry for double post but here is my recent experience with warrantyservice.. little bit frustrated now frown.gif

my bulb burned last week just 360hours in use so i contacted epson. they wanted it check it in service because i told about my focus problem and convergence. Well everything was great i was happy to send it last thursday and got it back yesterday. Papers said just generic projector hardware repair but i think they changed bulb, optical unit and updated firmware because ei got THX mode which i didnt have before.

Still with this repaired unit i had convergence problem but now blue was way off (before red was more off). Focus is better but whole screen is greener in left side and top of the picture has about 10cm thick blue / cyan hue or tint area going side to side. AARGH im so pissed it is showing in everything.

First i was stunned about fast repair because im in finland and projector service was in UK so 6 days is fast but i have to contact epson again and send this back

oh and i have eh-tw9100w so its 6020 model outside europe
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post #92 of 144 Old 07-04-2013, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

That is probably not related to the lamp age. Do you think the color has changed, or is it more likely that your eye has become more acclimated and critical as time has gone on? You can see from prior posts that I strongly believe in getting a good professional ISF calibration done on equipment like this. I know that $400 or so dollars is a lot of money, but we've all invested a bunch more than that in our equipment, and if yiu have a critical eye, it makes an incredible difference.

I've got good and bad news for you. Based on your post, I'm confident you have a critical eye. wink.gif But I am sure you are correct that the color is off. I'd bet alignment is off too. Mine was way off out of the box. Don't get me wrong, it still looked great, but it had the potential to be significantly better. And thanks to a rigorous calibration, now it is.

I like to tinker, love to adjust, and all of that, but what a true ISF professional can do goes way beyond what most of us can do. One problem is all the tangled interrelationships between various color and light issues. You change on thing and it impacts three others.

Sorry, too long a post. Three times now I've seen the before and after on the calibration of a television set that I was very familiar with. Game changing each time. I've drunk the Kool Aid, and there ain't no going back.

Cheers for the reply & advice.

It has definitely got greener over time. I have calibrated it (to the best of my limited ability) with the Disney WOW disc & also done the LCD alignment,but I think you are right & I will get a pro guy in to have a look at it & do it properly.

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post #93 of 144 Old 07-05-2013, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Two Cents View Post

I'm pretty new to projectors so I may be missing something but my 6020 is putting out way too much green. It only has 670 hours on its original lamp. Is this normal? I have dialed it out to -10 G but watching Black Hawk Down tonight it looks like it wants to go lots more. Any ideas?

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Originally Posted by Two Cents View Post

Cheers for the reply & advice.

It has definitely got greener over time. I have calibrated it (to the best of my limited ability) with the Disney WOW disc & also done the LCD alignment,but I think you are right & I will get a pro guy in to have a look at it & do it properly.

My first guess would be the lamp. UHP lamps are weakest in the Red spectrum and it is usually red that declines the most over the first few hundred hours of use. The lack of red can produce a more green or blue/green color shift to the image. You didn't indicate which color mode (e.g., dynamic, living room, cinema .....) you are operating the projector in. In any case is the green shift obvious in all color modes?

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post #94 of 144 Old 07-05-2013, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post


My first guess would be the lamp. UHP lamps are weakest in the Red spectrum and it is usually red that declines the most over the first few hundred hours of use. The lack of red can produce a more green or blue/green color shift to the image. You didn't indicate which color mode (e.g., dynamic, living room, cinema .....) you are operating the projector in. In any case is the green shift obvious in all color modes?

Only ever use it in natural or THX modes unless watching 3D content which isn't very often. Mostly natural as in my opinion it looks the best.

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post #95 of 144 Old 07-05-2013, 06:53 PM
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Sorry. Replied on my phone & missed the last part of the question.

I haven't tried it in other modes. I will give it a try today.

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post #96 of 144 Old 07-06-2013, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Two Cents View Post

Only ever use it in natural or THX modes unless watching 3D content which isn't very often. Mostly natural as in my opinion it looks the best.

Natural and THX modes have a color correction filter moved into place within the projector's light path. My best guess is still the lamp's spectrum has gradually changed and red is now very weak. If there were a failure within the projector itself it could be the color correction filter is no longer moving into the light path, but this change would have happened all at once and not gradually over time. If it were me, I would purchase a replacement lamp, unless you already have a spare, and see if installing the new lamp corrects the problem. If this doesn't correct the issue, at least you will have a spare lamp for the future.



.

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post #97 of 144 Old 07-07-2013, 02:44 PM
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What is that little black epson box with all the HDMI Ports?
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post #98 of 144 Old 07-08-2013, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Drew Murphy View Post

What is that little black epson box with all the HDMI Ports?

I like to call it my expensive 3D glasses charger. What it is is the wireless transmitter. Not sure how anyone else on here feels about it but I tried to get it to work twice & it just wouldn't. Don't think it likes my receiver. Could get it to play video or audio. Not both at the same time. I may have missed something but in the end hardwired was just way less of a headache.

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post #99 of 144 Old 07-08-2013, 08:28 AM
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Bullock a/k/a Two Cents, any update on whether you are seeing a difference in your reported green shift using the other operating modes?

Copied below is a lift from Epson's site on the 6020's projected (no pun intended) lamp life. They say 4000 hours. (I've read elsewhere it is 5000 hours if run in Eco mode.)

Using the 4000 hour figure, at 670 hours, Two Cents is just past 15% of anticipated lamp life. If color inaccuracy was common for everyone at 15% of lamp life (or anywhere close to it), that would be a significant issue.

I waited until 100 hours of lamp use before calibrating to allow the lamp a burn-in period. I am at 350 hours now and color remains accurate. But more reporting from other 6020 owners would be useful, and this thread is as good a place to do that as any.

Quote:
Q: How long should the projection lamp last in normal operation?
A: The projection lamp lasts up to about 4000 hours, depending on the selected Power Consumption setting and other factors. You can use the Info menu to check how long it's been in use. See Checking the Projector Status. Lamp life will vary depending on mode selected, environmental conditions, and usage. Brightness decreases over time.

To prolong the life of the lamp, you can do the following: Turn on the projector's Sleep Mode setting. See Other Setup Options. Turn off the projector when not in use. Make sure the projector is operated within the environmental requirement of 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 °C). Set the projector's Power Consumption setting to ECO. See Input Brightness Settings. Clean the air filter if dust collects on it. See Cleaning and Replacing the Air Filter. When you replace the lamp, make sure you don't touch the lamp with your bare hands. The invisible residue left by the oils on your hands may shorten the lamp life. Use a cloth or a glove to handle the lamp.

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post #100 of 144 Old 07-08-2013, 08:35 AM
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Calling out to any 6020 owner with the time to do it, especially those of you with more significant hours on your projectors than others, can you check the number of service hours on your current lamp (available via your 6020 menu as described above), and post on this thread with your total current hours, and whether you are seeing green-shift.

Here's hoping Two Cents' experience remains a rare exception, and nothing else.

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post #101 of 144 Old 07-08-2013, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Cents View Post

Cheers for the reply & advice.

It has definitely got greener over time. I have calibrated it (to the best of my limited ability) with the Disney WOW disc & also done the LCD alignment,but I think you are right & I will get a pro guy in to have a look at it & do it properly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Cents View Post

Only ever use it in natural or THX modes unless watching 3D content which isn't very often. Mostly natural as in my opinion it looks the best.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

Natural and THX modes have a color correction filter moved into place within the projector's light path. My best guess is still the lamp's spectrum has gradually changed and red is now very weak. If there were a failure within the projector itself it could be the color correction filter is no longer moving into the light path, but this change would have happened all at once and not gradually over time. If it were me, I would purchase a replacement lamp, unless you already have a spare, and see if installing the new lamp corrects the problem. If this doesn't correct the issue, at least you will have a spare lamp for the future.



.

Something else to try is turning off the "LCD Alignment" function (if you have previously saved a custom alignment setting) and see if that makes a difference. Also a more drastic measure would be to do a full reset of the projector to restore the factory default settings (I would write down any custom settings you have made before doing a full reset so they can be re-entered later as desired). If this does not help get rid of the excessive green (in all preset color modes) then a replacement lamp is probably the best thing to try next.


.

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post #102 of 144 Old 07-08-2013, 12:12 PM
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Is the price any cheaper on the 6020?
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post #103 of 144 Old 07-08-2013, 08:30 PM
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... Something else to try is turning off the "LCD Alignment" function ... or do a full reset of the projector to restore the factory strings.

That sounds like good advice. Two Cents, when you were trying to fix your convergence issues a few weeks ago, you mentioned getting into your RGB controls. If you recorded your current settings, and then hit the factory reset, it might let you pick from the best of both worlds. 👍

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post #104 of 144 Old 07-08-2013, 08:41 PM
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Well I haven't done any testing as such with modes etc but I can say that after putting another thirty hours on it since I originally posted with the problem it seems to have sorted itself out.

It's a strange one. I haven't done anything in the settings, it just seems to have improved by itself.

I'll take it as a win & obviously keep an eye on it & also invest in a spare lamp asap just to be on the safe side. Thank you all for the advice.

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post #105 of 144 Old 07-08-2013, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

That sounds like good advice. Two Cents, when you were trying to fix your convergence issues a few weeks ago, you mentioned getting into your RGB controls. If you recorded your current settings, and then hit the factory reset, it might let you pick from the best of both worlds. 👍

I think my convergence still has some issues. Thinking about getting a professional out to have a go. Only thing with that is any Tom Dick or Harry can say "Oh yes I am a professional" & wouldn't know a 6020 if they tripped over one.

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post #106 of 144 Old 07-09-2013, 05:00 AM
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Do your homework, of course. Here is one set of leads. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1276328/isf-thx-calibrators-australia

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post #107 of 144 Old 07-09-2013, 10:04 AM
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Is the price any cheaper on the 6020?

Probably will be later this year, If they introduce a successor to it in CEDIA.
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post #108 of 144 Old 07-09-2013, 07:48 PM
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Do your homework, of course. Here is one set of leads. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1276328/isf-thx-calibrators-australia

Thanks for the lead mogrub. Posted there.

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post #109 of 144 Old 08-10-2013, 07:51 AM
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I found a Epson 6020 on ABT electronic web site forsale,I thought Epson didnt sell the 6020 on the web. Ive purchased dvd players from them with no issues,are they a authorized dealer? What I like is they take paypal.
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post #110 of 144 Old 08-20-2013, 02:21 PM
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Hello, I hope some of you that own 6020 may be able to offer some advice about a good screen match. I have tried posting in 2 other forums and answers weren't too helpful.
My room is 17 front-back and 14.5 wide. the ceiling and fron wall are painted black and the other 3 walls are very dark brown. I have 2 windows-1 at the rear and the other on the side wall, both windows are close together.
I will be putting black-out shades on. We will primarily watch Blu-rays, but a fair amount of sports (mostly football and hockey). We usually keep lights out for movies, but would have shades partly open for sports.
So, the dealer is suggesting a Stewart Ultramatte 150 (gain of 1.5).
I got a couple of responses on other forums suggesting this is not a good match, considering the 6020 and my viewing preferrences. Forgot, thinking between 100 and 106 diagonal screen, sitting back about 12-13 feet from screen (don't think I can go any larger).
I would like you guys to 1) tell me if dealers suggestion is a good match
2) other screen suggestions with max budget of $1500
Thank you very much
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post #111 of 144 Old 08-20-2013, 06:00 PM
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So, I bought this projector. It looks great when I can get it to work, and once I do, I am going to be thrilled. However, I am banging my head right now. Essentially, this was an upgrade on my Optima hd72. I have a 25 foot cable running thru my ceiling that will be hard to replace. It is a DVI cable, with HDMI adapters on each side, but it has worked well for a decade. When I originally built my media room, HDMI wasn't really out yet. My old optima worked like a charm with the same DVD player (however outputting to 1080i), but the 6020 won't sync to my blu ray player (1080p or 1080i). To understand if it is just a general problem with DVI, I used a shorter DVI cable with the adapters as a test and the 6020 synced perfectly. However, over the longer run, it fails. I turned off HDMI link to see if that would make a difference, and it did not.

I see there were some issues reported here on HDMI handshake, but those were with other devices in the path. I do have a receiver and a splitter, but I have not introduced those yet (expecting issues). For now, it is straight from the BluRay to the PJ. I am going to do some more tests, but I was wondering....

1) Has anyone else had issues with long cable runs? Is this a sensitive projector?

2) Should I get a long HDMI cable and test it for issues with long runs in general?

3) Any other options? I guess I am wishing I got the wireless HDMI option now, but I didn't.

4) How long are your cable runs?

Any advice would be appreciated. My first test views from this PJ showed it is a major upgrade from what I had before. So, I am really looking forward to getting this operational.

Thanks
-Hal
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post #112 of 144 Old 08-20-2013, 07:16 PM
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Correction. 1080i is working. And, of course, that is what I always used prior to this projector. So, perhaps there is an issue with signal loss with a 1080p signal and my long DVI run. 1080p just wacks the PJ out and I can't even bring up the menu. Looks like I need to do some more testing.

-Hal
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post #113 of 144 Old 08-20-2013, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
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... I used a shorter DVI cable with the adapters as a test and the 6020 synced perfectly. However, over the longer run, it fails ... I see there were some issues reported here on HDMI ... I do have a receiver and a splitter, but I have not introduced those yet (expecting issues) ...

1) Has anyone else had issues with long cable runs? Is this a sensitive projector?

2) Should I get a long HDMI cable and test it for issues with long runs in general?

3) Any other options? I guess I am wishing I got the wireless HDMI option now, but I didn't.

Hal,

It's a great projector, you are correct that you will love it. Here's my two cents FWIW:

1. Not your fault, but your DVI cable is a dinosaur. You're going to have to ditch it sooner or later. Probably best to just rip that band aid off right now.

2. Consider replacing with a powered Redmere HDMI cable from forum sponsor Monoprice.com. Inexpensive and superior for resolving handbrake issues due to power loss along a longer run.

3. Don't be bumming about not going wireless. (That's the shortest triple negative sentence ever.) You'd have different headaches, but headaches nonetheless. Probably worse ones.

4. Yes do the test before doing the full install for sure. Do it sequentially. If the simple Epson to BluRay player via Redmere HDMI is truly stable (watch a bunch before deciding it is) then add devices, switches, piece by piece, testing each new combination thoroughly, before concluding it works perfectly. Better to be disappointed, if at all, before doing the ceiling run.

Just did a brutal series of long runs up and down walls and through the attic. Awful. Horrible. But worth it.

All just my two cents. YMMV.

Cheers and good luck.
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post #114 of 144 Old 08-20-2013, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmunster2 View Post

I would like you guys to:

1) tell me if dealers suggestion is a good match
2) other screen suggestions with max budget of $1500

Thank you very much

First, you must have found the "Screen Ideas For Epson 6020" thread right?

To me your dealers suggestion sounds in the ballpark. I went Screen Innovations 1.4 Black Diamond in a similarly sized room with a bit more light control. Worried it was too much gain. It isn't.

See UMR's screen information link, available in that thread at post #17, for a short, very useful screen background overview. 🍻

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post #115 of 144 Old 08-21-2013, 04:56 AM
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Hal,

Here's my advice, but this is not the easiest.

Hopefully, you have a straight shot from your projector to your equipment rack.
Tear out the ceiling, install a PVC pipe from your projector to your rack. Replace your ceiling.
If your joists are running the same direction, you may be able to fish an HDMI along the drywall.

Now, whenever the cable standards change, you can easily fish new cable.

This is what I did, but I was able to do it during my basement remodel.


Good luck.
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post #116 of 144 Old 08-21-2013, 06:52 AM
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Thanks JJ & Mogrub. Yeah, my DVI is super old. I guess I got to suck it up now and modernize. :-) Though the joists to my equipment run the opposite way, I do have 1.75" furring strips below the joists going the direction to my equipment, so I "should" be able to fish a new cable without tearing up the ceiling. I have double drywall, so I am not looking forward to a big ceiling patch job to run pvc conduit. But, if I can't fish a cable, I will do that next.

I'll order a 30' Redmere and give it a test before pulling the cable thru the ceiling. Thanks for the pointer on that. I'll suffer with 1080i until that project.

My only disappointment with the PJ has nothing to do with the 6020. Depending upon the position of the projector and therefore the zoom distance of the lens, my existing Prismasonic anamorphic lens is not working that great. If I zoom out too far, I am guessing the lens is too recessed and the image can't fit thru the lens with it in pass-thru mode (16x9). In wide screen mode (2.35:1) it works better, but has to be placed absolutely perfect with no wiggle room. So, it appears that getting my lens to work will be a challenge. But, I can make it work. Looks like I may have to build a sled to put the lens in place during wide screen movie time rather than using the pass thru mode, but the perfection required will make that challenging. The other option is to reduce my screen size so my zoom is less. I did place the projector as far back in the room as I could. Normally, that would be horrible, but my screen is pretty much oversized so reducing it some (10" maybe) would not really hurt. And, I could pull the seating closer. Choices.. choices... sigh. Well, that is what makes this hobby fun.

Thanks again. I am sure to visit this thread on a regular basis.

Regards
-hal
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post #117 of 144 Old 08-21-2013, 07:06 AM
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Thanks Mogrub, I didn't see the screen ideas forum, will look it up.
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post #118 of 144 Old 08-21-2013, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

First, you must have found the "Screen Ideas For Epson 6020" thread right?
Wt control. Worried it was too much gain. It isn't.

See UMR's screen information link, available in that thread at post #17, for a short, very useful screen background overview. 🍻

Mogrub, I looked at the thread and not sure what to make of it. Are all of these screen materials available from every manufacturer or are they proprietary names for individual manufacturers?
For instance, is Classic Cinem White a material only on Carada screens, or would it also be on a Da-Lite?
Since I know very little about this, I was relying on the dealer, but nobody on the forum seems to agree with his suggestion.
With the 6020, in a well light-controlled room, mainly for Movies (in the dark), but occaaionally for sports (with a window shade open or light on), a room lenght of 17 ft. and seating about 13 ft from 106" screen-what would be your recommendation? I have also talked to another dealer who sells Da-Lite (not sure which surface).
Thanks
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post #119 of 144 Old 08-21-2013, 10:54 AM
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In a light controlled room, you don't need an expensive high gain screen.

I use a Seymour XD acoustic transparent screen (gain 1.2) that I'm thrilled with.

Make a DIY screen and you'll save a ton of $ and be very happy.

"Engineers aren't boring people, we just get excited over boring things".
--Anon.

 

 

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post #120 of 144 Old 08-21-2013, 02:19 PM
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Also run 2 cat6 cables or you can just run a cat6 instead of a HDMI cable must thinner and you don't have the length issue and use balums. If you PM and tell me the length I can suggest some they are not all equal. In any case always run a cat6 now a days to save running new cables later and just switch out the balums it seems to have worked out well for me over the past couple of years all the stuff we installed we have not had to pull one new cable in 9 years.

You could also do wireless as well but I prefer hardwire.

Jason
Note: Any posts are of my personal opinions and not to reflect upon any business.

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