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post #91 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 03:47 AM
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JonStatt, I've tried adjusting the aperture and it still doesn't address the problem. I had it wide open, but when I take it down a bit, the black levels don't get crushed much more than they presently are. Instead, the rest of the image gets brought down. To be clear, my issues with the black levels are mainly in brighter scenes and not the moodier scenes. The black levels seem influenced by bright settings and bright lighting, while that is not the case on my plasma - which I know is a whole different beast, believe me. I have no expectations of a bright plasma image with a projector. But the plasma definitely crushes the blacks while retaining the right amount of contrast and brightness needed. What I'm trying to get closer to is the projected image my films have had in the theater or in the DI suite. Again, this mainly pertains to brighter, well lit scenes, both outdoor and interiors.
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post #92 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 03:51 AM
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Soupdragon, I am watching in pitch darkness. With the lights off, I, too, cannot see my hand. I have pretty effective blinds on my windows - but I mainly do my watching at night. Even so, there are no computer screens or other light sources to interfere with the image on screen.

The crazy thing is, that once I get the settings closer based on one film, the other film looks completely off. I'm having a hard time achieving any consistency - and this is with four beautifully mastered Blu Rays. All of them commercial releases.

Is there a setup disc that everyone swears by on this forum?

Thanks!
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post #93 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 04:07 AM
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Sounds like the room is quite bright for internal decoration - ie, light coloured walls and ceilings?
On bright scenes in this type of room, the brightness bounces off the screen and all around the room and back onto the screen. This would mean that in dark scenes, with so little brightness there is little amount of light bouncing around so therefore the black floor and shadow detail remains quite good. On bright scenes, the bright light will bounce around and hit the screen again which raises the black floor of any dark area's of the image and then the shadow detail is lost, resulting in higher black floor and the apprearance of crushed blacks (or to be more precise - crushed greys!)

If this is not the case then its definately a setup issue which could be easily fixed with a calibration. Let us know if this sounds about right?
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post #94 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 04:16 AM
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Yeah, I do have light colored walls and ceilings, although the walls have posters on them and one wall is a floor to ceiling filled with CDs. I also have a beige carpet. I'm a bit skeptical that the walls and carpet are the issue since the brightness issue is not consistent with brighter lit scenes - it just only happens in those kind of scenes. There are plenty bright scenes which actually look quite good in terms of black levels. I guess I need a professional to take a look at it. Thanks.
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post #95 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 04:32 AM
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I am not convinced any calibration helps with this. If its about black level there is nothing in any calibration aside from ensuring aperture is optimized and brightness is left alone at 0, that would help. I think its the room too. Remember that if the scene is very bright, your pupils will dilate to compensate and even though the black level is lifted, your eyes won't see it because the contrast range is beyond what your eye can take in. However, its the medium brightness scenes that are the most dangerous. Enough light to get reflected off walls and ceilings and back onto the screen, but the overall image brightness will not cause your pupils to adjust, and so you will see the elevated black levels clearly.

I think this is about expectations of the projector within the confines of a non-optimal environment.....
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post #96 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 04:45 AM
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Okay, thanks. Good to know. Appreciate it.
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post #97 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 05:57 AM
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Go to input signal which is the next menu item then select input and try changing the inputs from enhanced and standard.

Let us know what you see and welcome to the forums!
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post #98 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 07:10 AM
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No need to get a professional in as the room is the key factor here. Thats why I was asking all the room questions as if you can rule out those factors then we know you've got it set up incorrectly or the projector isn't working properly. As it turns out, the room is influencing in a big way so there isn't a lot you can do about it (other than darken the room or move the projector to a more suitable room) There may still be value in checking against a calibration disc to make sure the brightness and contrast are where they should be but by the sounds of it you've got it ok as the dark scenes are looking good.

Its also worth noting that some discs don't use reference black and can go a full movie with an elevated black floor. The recent movie 'impossible' dissappointed me quite a bit as I was hoping it would be close to a masterpiece. A great film yes but why the elevated black levels? The video looked ok aside from this but I was hoping for more. I don't know the movies your referencing to earlier but maybe they have a similar issue?
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post #99 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 12:17 PM
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Hey Kris are you still doing a review of this?
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post #100 of 138 Old 08-20-2013, 10:51 PM
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All the films are pretty contrasty, for the most part. Mastered with very strong blacks and good color. Yeah, I can't do anything about the room situation, so I guess I'll just have to suck it up.

Thanks!
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post #101 of 138 Old 08-24-2013, 01:58 AM
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post #102 of 138 Old 08-24-2013, 02:54 AM
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Excuse my ignorance, but what is the difference between the DLA RS66U and the DLA X95 - they sound like they have the same features to me.

Thanks.
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post #103 of 138 Old 08-24-2013, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wickerman65 View Post

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the difference between the DLA RS66U and the DLA X95 - they sound like they have the same features to me.

Thanks.

Same projector
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post #104 of 138 Old 08-24-2013, 01:56 PM
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I am in the process of buying a projector that can fill in a 130" wide Screen Excellence screen with Enlightor 4k AT material. I am looking for a projector with Lens Zoom capabilities similar to JVC X95 and wasn't sure whether this projector can fill the screen with enough brightness for both 2d and 3d (though primary focus would be for 2d). My throw can be from 17' to 20'. Can any one comment on the calibrated brightness of this projector and whether it can fill in the type of screen I mentioned.

Thank you for your help.
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post #105 of 138 Old 08-24-2013, 02:37 PM
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Thanks.
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post #106 of 138 Old 08-30-2013, 02:13 PM
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Kris' review states replacement lamp is $255. Where can I get it at that price? JVC website/store quotes $499.
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post #107 of 138 Old 09-05-2013, 12:44 PM
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I am going to be buying the c6 bundled with lumagen mini from spectral cal. There sold out of i1pro2 for now but will buy later and profile the meter. Anyways just wondering has anyone done a full Color cube calibration with the lumagen yet?
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post #108 of 138 Old 09-05-2013, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crtguy View Post

Kris' review states replacement lamp is $255. Where can I get it at that price? JVC website/store quotes $499.

That was a misprint and it has been fixed. Sorry.

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post #109 of 138 Old 09-05-2013, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TK-713 View Post

I am going to be buying the c6 bundled with lumagen mini from spectral cal. There sold out of i1pro2 for now but will buy later and profile the meter. Anyways just wondering has anyone done a full Color cube calibration with the lumagen yet?

I have done several. Works like a charm. Calibration has gotten better and better while at the same time easier and easier. And the results are FAR better than you could achieve with the JVC alone. I can't recommend the Lumagen enough.

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post #110 of 138 Old 09-05-2013, 03:43 PM
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Cool so how does this work? Does it take u step by step automatically so does brightness and contrast then straight into grey scale then the cube calibration? Does it select the correct patterns or do u have to select it yourself
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post #111 of 138 Old 09-05-2013, 05:07 PM
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Sorry guys but I have mentioned this before, but need to ask one more time. Lol.

DEEP COLOR 36bit does nothing for picture quality, so in order to use my monster hd1000 16ft cable I have to disable 36bit color, ok fine, so I set the oppo 103 to no 36bit color and color space to 4:2:2. Ok so now when watching movies it will display 8-bit color. Even though I know I can't see a difference in my mine I just think its going to be better if I enable 36bit.

Now that I am getting into calibration whats happens when enabling deep color? If set to 12 bit will that give a better calibration even though I won't see the difference?

I noticed when setting the color space on the oppo to display 36bit with the projector on auto it usually always selects 4:4:4 which I read is really hard on the cable and does nothing picture wise

When I see the 8bit displayed I just think in my mine the projector isn't displaying its max potential.

The only think that uses deep color so far is video games.

So I guess getting in calibration that's the big question is having 36bit deep color enabled make the calibration have better results? If so I will have to try to find a hdmi cable that works or use a lumagen cat5 extender
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post #112 of 138 Old 09-05-2013, 09:04 PM
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Dwwp color does nothing for you. Just leave if off. The color space you choose can have an effect, but since you CANT send out the native 4:2:0 that is on the disc, you will have to get the Spears and Munsil test disc and fire up the chroma patterns to see which one works better with you PJ and player combo.
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post #113 of 138 Old 09-10-2013, 02:23 PM
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So almost have 200 hours on the x95, picture is great seems to be ok except for when enabling deep color when using 16 foot monster hd1000 cable, so went back to 12foot, lol. Only issue is that dam high pitch noise, sometimes I forget its there but most times I hear it, he'll even my girlfriend noticed so much be bad. Can someone use there phone and put it up behind the projector and record it then email it to me at kfraser0675@hotmail.com. I am just wondering how others projector sounds, I am thinking on selling it its too annoying
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post #114 of 138 Old 09-10-2013, 02:33 PM
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Keep colorspace at 4:2:2 with deep color off. Unless you just have to have it, turn off e-shift and set all the settings to 0 in the eshift menu (they still apply even if eshift it off). If you're in low lamp you shouldn't hear buzzing anymore.

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post #115 of 138 Old 09-10-2013, 04:47 PM
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Pretty sure I tried that already but I'll check again.
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post #116 of 138 Old 09-11-2013, 02:34 AM
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Okay, so I'm encountering a new problem with my RS66 - no matter what I do, I can't get my audio to sync perfectly with the picture. It appears to be about three frames ahead of picture. I'm using a Denon AVR-3806 receiver and playing Blu Rays off an Oppo BDP-93. I've tried adjusting the speaker distance setting in both my receiver and in the Oppo itself to no success. I have a 65 " Panasonic plasma just behind my screen (literally an inch back) which used to be my principal means of watching movies - and the sync is perfect with the plasma, so I'm starting to think it's not a receiver problem and something to do with the projector sync. I was using an Oppo HDMI switch, thinking that could be the cause of the sync loss - but when plugging the HDMI cable directly into the projector, I'm still having the same sync problem. I've heard that projectors occasionally have sync issues, so I'm hoping there's something I can do to remedy this situation. My HDMI cable is a 30ft Ultra Slim Series High Performance Cable w/ RedMere® Technology - for what it's worth.

Any ideas how to address this issue will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #117 of 138 Old 09-11-2013, 07:40 AM
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Don't mess with your speaker distances for this... that isn't what that setting is for. Get them right, and then there should be an audio delay (in milliseconds) option in your receiver. I don't know your particular receiver, but most receivers from the last few years have this.
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post #118 of 138 Old 09-11-2013, 05:35 PM
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Hifiaudio2 - thanks so much. I think that's going to do the trick. Appreciate it!
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post #119 of 138 Old 09-12-2013, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wickerman65 View Post

Hifiaudio2 - thanks so much. I think that's going to do the trick. Appreciate it!

JVC projectors have about 80ms of latency. So you will definitely need to crank up that audio delay on the receiver.
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post #120 of 138 Old 09-12-2013, 12:10 PM
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Hi Wickerman:

I just wanted to re enforce what hifi audio 2 had to say. I have the JVC 66u projector and I have had the same problem you do have. I had it on the Oppo 95 and now on the 105. It took some trial and error but I had to adjust the lip sync on my unit the Krell 707 twenty units (I guess that is 20 milliseconds) for it to be perfect.

Both of the Oppo units I mentioned have lip sync settings, I don't think the 93 has.

Surround Pre-Amp: Krell 707 3D; Amp: (center) Krell 400e; Amp Fronts Krell 600e; Rears Proceed HPA-3; SACD: Krell Cipher; FM: Day Sequerra FM Reference; Blu-Ray: Oppo BDP 105; Speakers: Revel Ultima Salon 2; Center: Revel Voice 2; Rear/Back: Thiel Powerplanes; Subs: 2 SVS SB-13 Ultra; Turntable:...
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