"Black" Theater Improvment Thread (Once you go black you never go back?) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:01 PM
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Without the lens are zooming or using VP to scale it?

Zooming. 2.35:1 screen - 118" x 50.2" x 128.2" diagonal. 41.1 square feet

16:9 screen - 59.6" x 106" x 121.6" diagonal. 43.8 square feet.

The best of both worlds.....! smile.gif

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Old 04-04-2013, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post

Zooming. 2.35:1 screen - 118" x 50.2" x 128.2" diagonal. 41.1 square feet

16:9 screen - 59.6" x 106" x 121.6" diagonal. 43.8 square feet.

The best of both worlds.....! smile.gif

Nice Craig! I like it. cool.gif

JVC 3D: Been there, done that, bought a DLP
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Old 04-05-2013, 04:46 PM
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Da-Lite HCCV 16:9 screen in front, Stewart ST 130 G3 2.35:1 screen in back.

Here is the current set up ( ST 130 G3 in back, HCCV screen in front ) . I plan to change the HCCV 16:9 screen soon with either a Da-Lite HD Pro 1.1 white screen, or a Stewart Cima Neve 1.1 gain white screen !

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Old 04-05-2013, 05:04 PM
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Craig's 2-screen solution is more elegant than mine, which is a fixed-frame hybrid screen AR (2.0), 144x72. For 2.35 pic I zoom to fill up the 144" width, but the pic is only ~ 62" high, leaving me with a ~ 10" black bar at the top (since I lens shift the pic to line up with the bottom of the screen. For 16x9 pics I zoom to fill up the height, and the width of the pic is 136" (since I use the 'true' 4K size with my Sony1000). This leaves a 8" wide black bar on one side, which I mask with a 1.5" thick styrofoam panel covered with ProtoStar.

May sound complicated, but it's extremely simple and works well for me. (Having a fixed frame screen makes is easier to cover the surrounding walls with black velvet.)
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Old 04-06-2013, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post

Da-Lite HCCV 16:9 screen in front, Stewart ST 130 G3 2.35:1 screen in back.

Here is the current set up ( ST 130 G3 in back, HCCV screen in front ) . I plan to change the HCCV 16:9 screen soon with either a Da-Lite HD Pro 1.1 white screen, or a Stewart Cima Neve 1.1 gain white screen !

Coool set up!

Decadent, even. smile.gif
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:59 AM
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Decadent, even.

Decadent is my middle name.................cool.gif

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Old 04-06-2013, 04:42 PM
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What is a good paint to use for light housing where the bulb is next to the housing. "Can Lights"... And those that used the velvet from Joann's was it the Royal Velvet that was used?
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:38 PM
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I used the royalty 3 black velvet from joann's to cover my room about 8' out from my screen. It really kills any light reflection. The difference between it and the rest of my room which is painted flat black is significant.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:16 PM
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I wonder if hot melt glue would work on that instead of using duct tape ?
It would make for a cleaner look and more professonal.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:23 PM
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Would not those celing tile rails with the semigloss paint on them be distracting or have you already taken care of that ?

Perhaps ? why day ? they will invent some kind of processor that people could hook up LED lights to change according to whether the scene is dark in a movie or a light scene.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLPProjectorfan View Post

Would not those celing tile rails with the semigloss paint on them be distracting or have you already taken care of that ?

Are you referring to the photo I posted on page 1 of the black ceiling tiles?

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465053/black-theater-improvment-thread-once-you-go-black-you-never-go-back#post_23122951

if so, I covered those with the protostar material. 200+ sections to cover by hand. It was a pain, but it looks excellent now that it's done.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:16 AM
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What is a good paint to use for light housing where the bulb is next to the housing. "Can Lights"...

If you look on page 1 of this thread you will see -
Quote:
Lights are painted with High-temperature BBQ paint.

That's next on my list of things to do in my theater.

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Old 04-09-2013, 11:46 PM
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Can any of you post a link to the product you used for black velvet curtains on Amazon? There seem to be a lot of choices. Is there any advantage to one type over another?

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Old 04-10-2013, 03:21 AM
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Craig's 2-screen solution is more elegant than mine, which is a fixed-frame hybrid screen AR (2.0), 144x72. For 2.35 pic I zoom to fill up the 144" width, but the pic is only ~ 62" high, leaving me with a ~ 10" black bar at the top (since I lens shift the pic to line up with the bottom of the screen. For 16x9 pics I zoom to fill up the height, and the width of the pic is 136" (since I use the 'true' 4K size with my Sony1000). This leaves a 8" wide black bar on one side, which I mask with a 1.5" thick styrofoam panel covered with ProtoStar.

May sound complicated, but it's extremely simple and works well for me. (Having a fixed frame screen makes is easier to cover the surrounding walls with black velvet.)


Millerwill - very stupid question.....but, how do you attach the styrofoam masking to your screen? i am looking at a cheaper alternative, instead of the motorized masking systems out there....but I am really not very handy.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:41 AM
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Mine is everything black.

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Old 04-10-2013, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasticfish View Post

Quote:
Craig's 2-screen solution is more elegant than mine, which is a fixed-frame hybrid screen AR (2.0), 144x72. For 2.35 pic I zoom to fill up the 144" width, but the pic is only ~ 62" high, leaving me with a ~ 10" black bar at the top (since I lens shift the pic to line up with the bottom of the screen. For 16x9 pics I zoom to fill up the height, and the width of the pic is 136" (since I use the 'true' 4K size with my Sony1000). This leaves a 8" wide black bar on one side, which I mask with a 1.5" thick styrofoam panel covered with ProtoStar.

May sound complicated, but it's extremely simple and works well for me. (Having a fixed frame screen makes is easier to cover the surrounding walls with black velvet.)


Millerwill - very stupid question.....but, how do you attach the styrofoam masking to your screen? i am looking at a cheaper alternative, instead of the motorized masking systems out there....but I am really not very handy.

My screen frame is the Dalite Da-Snap, essentially 1.5"x1.5" square tube (covered in ProtoStar-like light-absorbing black material), with the screen snapping on the back. So I bought a 1.5" thick styrofoam sheet at Home Depot and cut the appropriate size, covered it in ProtoStar, and it slips right inside the screen frame and is flush with the frame. It stays in place via friction and is easy to slip in and out.
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:47 AM
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I have an idea of doing something like this for my screen from Fidelio black velvet:


Because it's impossible for me to turn the whole room black. Plus it'd spoil the sound.
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:59 AM
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what's that?
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:56 PM
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:32 PM
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Once you go black you never go back.
smile.gif

I stole my theater idea from another AVSer years ago and blacked out the entire room ceiling to floor with black paint. Its really dark and near impossible to take photos in there, but watching movies is amazing. Really gives an immersive experience.




Room is really small and its really dark so pics never turn out well-





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Old 04-10-2013, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr stroke View Post

Once you go black you never go back.
smile.gif

I stole my theater idea from another AVSer years ago and blacked out the entire room ceiling to floor with black paint. Its really dark and near impossible to take photos in there, but watching movies is amazing. Really gives an immersive experience.

I did the same thing as you 2 years ago. Every thing black (walls, ceiling, wooden floor, console, AV equipment/cables, rug, accoustic foams, projector, blu ray compartment shelf). Total darkness.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:44 AM
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Has anyone ever considered painting the grey-scale pattern on the walls. The black end would be at the screen fading to lighter shades near the projector mount.
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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NO...

I have a hard enough time keeping the projectors calibrated, let a lone the room...

Just imagine if you had the gamma wrong!!!! Or didn't have the correct brightness settings... You may have black crush near the screen...

And then was about focus pattern, or color patterns? Without those you'll never notice if your rooms color is accurate or in focus. Then someday you may want to get a lumagen outside the room to do an auto cal... I just see it being more hassle then it's worth... cool.gif



*On a serious not:I have thought about it once before, but only having to buy one can of paint vs 12 was much better in my mind, and ultimately better for the theater*
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

NO...

I have a hard enough time keeping the projectors calibrated, let a lone the room...

Just imagine if you had the gamma wrong!!!! Or didn't have the correct brightness settings... You may have black crush near the screen...

And then was about focus pattern, or color patterns? Without those you'll never notice if your rooms color is accurate or in focus. Then someday you may want to get a lumagen outside the room to do an auto cal... I just see it being more hassle then it's worth... cool.gif



*On a serious not:I have thought about it once before, but only having to buy one can of paint vs 12 was much better in my mind, and ultimately better for the theater*

LOL I was hoping I wasn't the only one biggrin.gif
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:32 PM
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Just picked up 14 yards of black velvet from Jo-Ann Fabrics today! My wife had a 50% off coupon so she is going to make curtains to cover the entire front wall. biggrin.gif

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Old 04-12-2013, 01:59 AM
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So, wouldn't it be more effective to make such a hood for a projected screen? There's no argument that it would be less pleasing aesthetically.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:20 AM
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I just installed another room treatment tweak that I've been waiting to try for quite a while. During my original build, I had a drop down ceiling that covers most of the room finished in dark brown felt. It is very dark and very good for keeping light off the screen. But as I added more pitch black velvet into the room - on the floor, curtains that can surround the room for movie viewing, my velvet masking system, it had become true pitch black everywhere around the image. Except at that point even the dark brown ceiling felt couldn't compete with the black of the velvet, so it was somewhat visible during movies.

So I just had a curtain track installed over my screen, and another Fidelio black velvet curtain hangs from it, stacking to the side of the screen, in front of my right side black velvet hanging masking system.
The great thing about using black velvet on all of the screen wall is that whatever else you add becomes essentially invisible. I brought in my family and they couldn't even detect anything had been added or changed on the screen wall.

Anyway, the idea is that when I really want to make sure everything disappears around the image, I pull the curtain and quickly attach it (with attached dowels) to 2 hooks in the ceiling, forming a velvet canopy over the screen. I've done some preliminary trials and viewing in the last two nights and...wow...it does have the impact I was looking for. With that last bit of visual information gone around the image there is only the geometry and depth cues in the movie image itself for the eyes to latch on to. The sense of depth and layering that the image takes on is amazing and really does often feel like watching 3D without the glasses. (Comfortable 3D!). Watching familiar scenes of movies sometimes felt new, because the depth cues were so believable!

And of course the contrast looks amazing. It's just super consistent no matter what type of image goes on screen bright or dark or mixed. Credits roll along a black background that does not lighten or alter as the white credits near normal reflection boundaries like the ceiling. It's just a pure image from the JVC RS55.

Now all I want is for projection to continue gains in contrast/black levels. It's obvious in such a dark room that we still have quite a ways to go before we see truly "off" level blacks on a screen at acceptable brightness settings. If projection ever really could do pitch black (throughout all the scenes) the result would be mindblowing.

(And, btw, that brings up a slight beef I have with a recent Widescreen Review article, in which it claimed the latest JVC projector they tested "no longer required masking" and that the black levels were as pitch dark as the surrounding black screen frame...on which I call total bullsh#t).
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:19 AM
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I've decided against the FabricMate system (WAY too expensive if you ask me). I ordered 29 yards of fabric to cover the ceiling, walls, and to build velvet frames around my screen. Here's a before picture (velvet will be installed onto the non-black areas) and hopefully I will have this completed early next week....

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Old 04-12-2013, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
(And, btw, that brings up a slight beef I have with a recent Widescreen Review article, in which it claimed the latest JVC projector they tested "no longer required masking" and that the black levels were as pitch dark as the surrounding black screen frame...on which I call total bullsh#t).

I don't think we are there yet. And of course how bright you like your picture and where your iris is set will effect the black bars too.

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Old 04-12-2013, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post

I don't think we are there yet. And of course how bright you like your picture and where your iris is set will effect the black bars too.

That's why I mentioned a reasonable brightness, for instance 12 FL or so, and we definitely aren't there yet (true pitch black).

Of course the black bars on a JVC projector can look quite black when our iris is being hit by a bright scene. Almost any half decent projector will do that as well.
But as we know it's the lower APL scenes that really tell the tale. Even watching a JVC projector do dark low APL scenes against a pitch black surrounding shows
how really far we have yet to go.
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