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post #1 of 16 Old 08-06-2013, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a jvc rs 40 that I got as a b stock from avscience. It is still under warranty until march. I love the image of this projector and be perfectly happy holding onto it until 4k or better light sources become available.

But I can't help but worry if this thing will hold up, specifically the lamp issue. The orginal series 002 lamp went at 450 hours. It just dimmed, but didn't blow. Avs promptly replaced it with a new 003 flappe version. I am now at 400 hours and worry about a repeat. There has been little written on these new lamps, though what is said is positive that they are holding up. I could even live with getting 1500 hours out of a lamp. I don't use 3d at all so it's always running in normal lamp mode.

I have been tracking the light output with an i1pro. I don't think it is the best device for reading light output, but the readings are consistent from reading to reading and percent change. Both bulbs read 11 ftL when new and calibrated. Both read about 8 ftL after break in. The new lamp is holding at that. Again, I don't think it is really only 8ftL, but at least it gives me a percent change. This is with a 100" screen, 10 foot throw 1.1 gain.

I could offload this and get a b stock rs4800' but I don't know much about this model as there isn't much info on it. Or look for an rs46 if I could get one for around $2600. I prefer b stock because you get a full warranty and avoid the initial depreciation hit. I will stick with jvc. I have no desire for 3d and they have the best 2d picture I have seen.

I don't want to panic and sell for no reason. The longer I save the sooner I can upgrade to a newer technology. I also don't want to end up with a curing bulb issue while the resale for the rs 40 drops.

So what do you think?
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post #2 of 16 Old 08-06-2013, 07:00 PM
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Keep your RS40. You aren't looking at an image quality upgrade with newer bottom end JVC models. The only thing that looks better is high end DLP or a high end JVC or Sony.
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post #3 of 16 Old 08-06-2013, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah like I said there is nothing an upgrade at this point would offer me picture quality wise. Even a full cms would not matter much as my rs40 is almost dead on. It's really out of concern for the lamp issues and betting that the 003 lamps really are fixed with very little data to go on.
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post #4 of 16 Old 08-06-2013, 07:31 PM
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There has only been one person here who I've seen post an issue with the Rev. 3 lamp and that is Coderguy. Mike at AVScience has posted that he hasn't had anyone complain about the new lamps since they've been out. You shouldn't worry.
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post #5 of 16 Old 08-06-2013, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Am I correct in assuming that an i1 pro is not the best device to get an accurate ftL reading? 8 seems low, but it was never more than 11 whe either bulb was new.
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post #6 of 16 Old 08-06-2013, 08:18 PM
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Yeah, they aren't very accurate for that. You'd want to get a true luminance meter. This one is a great cheap alternative that gives very accurate results:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1PK0KC4987&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Electrical+Tools-_-9SIA1PK0KC4987

I have one myself and use it from time to time.
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post #7 of 16 Old 08-07-2013, 04:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post


I have been tracking the light output with an i1pro. I don't think it is the best device for reading light output, but the readings are consistent from reading to reading and percent change. Both bulbs read 11 ftL when new and calibrated. Both read about 8 ftL after break in. The new lamp is holding at that. Again, I don't think it is really only 8ftL, but at least it gives me a percent change. This is with a 100" screen, 10 foot throw 1.1 gain.

Not sure if your room setup would support a shelf mount, but if so, maybe a Dailite HP screen would be a less expensive and more productive image upgrade as it would greatly improve the FL output. If you can not shelf mount just over your seated head height, it is probably not going to get you much, but if you can, you will have what looks like a 100" plasma.
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post #8 of 16 Old 08-07-2013, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Doug!

No can't do a shelf mount. But I did take your advice and added several feet of black velvet panels to the ceiling in front of the screen to block reflections. That did make a big difference in overall PQ!
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-07-2013, 07:59 AM
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I would just hold onto your RS40. My RS40's 003 lamp is at 900 hours and I recently measured it at over 12 ftL and has only dimmed as lamps normally do. I've had my RS40 over 2 1/2 years and still love the pq but I am hoping to upgrade to a newer JVC model this fall.

Mike

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post #10 of 16 Old 08-07-2013, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbw23air View Post

I would just hold onto your RS40. My RS40's 003 lamp is at 900 hours and I recently measured it at over 12 ftL and has only dimmed as lamps normally do. I've had my RS40 over 2 1/2 years and still love the pq but I am hoping to upgrade to a newer JVC model this fall.

Mike

Out of curiosity? what did you use to measure? What is your iris set to? Screen size and throw distance, high gain screen, normal or high lamp mode, calibrated?

Just trying to get an idea of what your setup and setting look like to get that much light output.
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post #11 of 16 Old 08-07-2013, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Out of curiosity? what did you use to measure? What is your iris set to? Screen size and throw distance, high gain screen, normal or high lamp mode, calibrated?

Just trying to get an idea of what your setup and setting look like to get that much light output.

According to his profile he has a HP screen. That is probably it.

Having owned a RS40, every little thing helps for brightness with this projector. Paint those walls and ceiling black, crank the lamp up to high, zoom down the pic onto a smaller screen, replace the lamp.

The RS40 is a great projector and has wonderful blacks. A supernova picture it aint got.

-Alex-
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post #12 of 16 Old 08-07-2013, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bairda View Post

According to his profile he has a HP screen. That is probably it.

Having owned a RS40, every little thing helps for brightness with this projector. Paint those walls and ceiling black, crank the lamp up to high, zoom down the pic onto a smaller screen, replace the lamp.

The RS40 is a great projector and has wonderful blacks. A supernova picture it aint got.

-Alex-

HA!

Well I have triple back velvet panels on the ceiling in front of the screen. Walls are a dark non-reflective red. Carpet is beige.....wish it was darker! I'd be hesitant to run an RS40 in high lamp mode all the time, plus it's loud. I could open my iris all the way to 0, but then I'd be trading contrast. -8 to -6 seems to be the best balance for my room depending on content. Plus the more I open the Iris, the lighter the blacks get.
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post #13 of 16 Old 08-07-2013, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post

Out of curiosity? what did you use to measure? What is your iris set to? Screen size and throw distance, high gain screen, normal or high lamp mode, calibrated?

Just trying to get an idea of what your setup and setting look like to get that much light output.

Maybe my initial response was my manufacturer response....... as to get those 12 ftL at over 900 hours on my 125" 2.35 1.2 gain screen my iris is at 0 and lamp on high. I use a Mastech Digital lux meter lx-1330b. Projector is calibrated with Chromapure with advanced auto-calibrate through a Lumagen XD video processor. I need to change my equipment list as I no longer have HP screen and I am currently using a 125" diagonal 2.35 1.2 gain Focupix screen. I normally will watch it with iris at -9 and I go between high and low lamp depending on how much light I need in my completely blacked out room.

Sorry to not list all the specifics in my first response. smile.gif

Mike

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post #14 of 16 Old 08-08-2013, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

Yeah, they aren't very accurate for that. You'd want to get a true luminance meter. This one is a great cheap alternative that gives very accurate results:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1PK0KC4987&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Electrical+Tools-_-9SIA1PK0KC4987

I have one myself and use it from time to time.

Why would reading a 100 IRE pattern off the screen with an i1 PRO with Chromapure or Calman telling you the ftL not be accurate?
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post #15 of 16 Old 08-09-2013, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Why would reading a 100 IRE pattern off the screen with an i1 PRO with Chromapure or Calman telling you the ftL not be accurate?

From what I've been told it's just not the best for measuring light output. I could be wrong, but I've read it several times on the forum.
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post #16 of 16 Old 08-09-2013, 09:26 AM
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This depends a little bit on your meter, but a luminance meter is nothing but a colorimeter that only reports Y.

So 5 years ago between a $300 spyder 2 and a $300 luminance meter the luminance might have had some significant advantages.

Now a i1 Display Pro is very good, and an i1 Pro has always been very good at measuring luminance.
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