Originally Posted by coderguy
Remember with LCOS projectors there is some luck of the draw in how sharp the convergence comes out. I can tell you my JVC is almost as sharp as my Benq w7000. It's pretty darn close.
I compared the sharpness of the two in this article:
For movie watching, I am sure 90% of us would prefer a JVC or Sony over the w7000.
I own both the w7000 and the JVC, I always use the JVC for most movies, it just produces a better image. I don't find many (if any) areas the Benq really beats the JVC in movies.
Yes, the Darbee helps the JVC greatly. As far as e-shift goes, it adds a bit to the image, makes it smoother looking, but it's not really a sharpening enhancement in the traditional sense. E-shift is different than the Darbee. They are complimentary rather than exclusionary.
When it comes to sharpness of a DLP vs. a JVC in most movies, well the main thing we are really seeing is the different look of the DLP's PIXEL FILL, rather than purely a sharpness thing. Since LCOS has a higher pixel fill (especially with E-shift on), then the image can sometimes look more natural and less digital, and overall can be perceived as less sharp. Most of the time I prefer this look over DLP, you just have to get used to it is all. The Benq also cheats a little bit and uses a somewhat rough sharpening enhancement that is on the verge of causing ringing. I think the Benq at sharpness +1 is about the same as JVC's sharpness control set to +10 to +15.
To tell you the truth, the Benq w7000 isn't my favorite under $2000 DLP for movies anyhow, I'm not sure which is my favorite but I have a feeling the Sharp xvz-30,000 would be if I saw one (problem is though you can't get them at this price anymore I don't think). I think for movies the Mits hc8000 would beat the w7000 if you can get past the lens uniformity issue and color uniformity issues of the Mitsubishi. I've never seen the hc8000 though, Zombie didn't like it but mostly he was looking at it for 3D purposes.
Originally Posted by zombie10k
@ quack724 - The HW50 and RS46 are within ~100 lumens of one another with a full D65 calibration.
regarding sharpness, the Epson 5020 and RS46 will have a higher perceived sharpness than the HW50 without the reality creation turned on. The reality creation, even at it's lowest setting can be a bit too harsh for certain BD content. Anywhere there is a potential for grain to show through, RC will make it stand out. it's especially noticeable on my 142" @ close seating distance.
Underworld is one of my favorite benchmarks for the various projectors, only a handful can really handle this movie well.
Some closeup's of RC turned on / off. Setting are at minimum.
The reality creations makes the grain noticeable and a bit distracting during playback. I chose to leave it off for this movie and used the darbee instead. This is where a projector that is more naturally sharp can exceed the PQ of the HW50. I'll post some stock vs. stock & also Reality Creation vs. E-shift comparisons in the shootout thread. For my preferences, e-shift is more natural and a better overall PQ enhancement than reality creation. I leave it on 100% of the time for all content.
Either the 5020 or RS46 would be a good replacement for the W7000 based on the info you provided above.
edit: it's not just movies with grain where the RC can be a bit overwhelming. I recently watched Oblivion which is an excellent transfer, and the RC was introducing some artifacts I'd have preferred not to see. I'm hoping they offer a mode that can tone it down a bit in the upcoming HW55.
Thanks coderguy and zombie. You guys have influenced to take a hard look at the JVCs. I am interested in the X55R or RS-4810 for the MPC faux 4K and CMS. I think the RS 4810 is the custom installer version but otherwise same spec as X55R? Rumor has it that the 4810 is on clearance now with a free bulb . I think this puts the 4810 somewhat close to the street price of the Sony HW50.
The main concern for me is will I get enough ft-L at 0 hour and 1000+ hours with my 125" wide 2.37 Seymour XD. My current BenQ projector lens to screen distance is 17 ft.
My understanding is that generally the lumens ouput will vary at various throw ranges. In Art's review
he measuresJVC DLA-X55R Lumen Output and Color Temp at 100 IRE (mid zoom) Pre-Calibration:
Cinema= 712 @ 6506, 451 @ 6827 in default Low lamp mode
Film= 676 @ 5967
Natural= 721 @ 6510
Stage= 793 @ 7736
Animation= 775 @ 8377
3D= 793 @ 7755
User 1-5= 721 @ 6518
Some questions in my mind as I read through his review
1) From Art's review, he uses "mid zoom" mean but I am not sure what the distance equates to. If I mount the JVC with lens to screen distance of 17 ft like my BenQ, how do I determine my lumens output in low lamp and high lamp mode?
2) Which mode is best to calibrate on?
3) Since lumens = (ft-lamberts * screen area sq ft) / gain
[ lumens * gain ] / area = ft - L
Since I use an ISCO 4XL A-lens, do I use 16 x 9 width ( 94 " ) and not the full 125" width to arrive at the screen area ?
In the mean time, I'll make some assumptions..
Scenario #1: Screen width 125" x screen height 53" -> 6625 sq in / 144 sq in = ~46 sq ft -> I like low lamp for quiet so assume 450 lumens in Cinema mode for now -> 450 / 46 = 9.78 ft-L -> below minimum 12 ft-L at that is with new bulb and not even factoring in I think 2% light loss with A-lens and Seymour XD is .9 or .95 gain actual?
High lamp mode 700 lumen -> ~15 ft-L
Scenario #2: Screen width 94" x screen height 53" -> 4982 sq in / 144 sq in = ~34.6 sq ft -> I like low lamp for quiet so assume 450 lumens in Cinema mode for now -> 450 / 34.6 = 13 ft-L -> just above 12ft-L ... not even factoring in I think 2% light loss with A-lens and Seymour XD actual gain.
High lamp mode 700 lumen -> ~20.3 ft-L
I don't know which of the two scenarios above is the right math but in either case, it seems I have to run the JVCs in high lamp mode in order to get decent ft-L for my screen size. But when i demoed the X55R at Magnolia, i remember could hear the fan and it was somewhat distracting. Have not made up my mind if it's a deal breaker but I remember noticing it. For the Sony HW50, i keep reading the high lamp mode is still very quiet.
If quiet fan is a criteria for me, it seems the Sony HW50 is best bet? Are the black level differences night & day or just splitting hairs? I get that the RC will make certain content not very good. But if I pair with my Darbee, can I get at least get close to the BenQ W7000 sharpness? Zombie, I know you have extensively tested both. Would appreciate your thoughts on here please !!