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post #4111 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

Whether you choose superwhite or standard is really a personal preference. But regardless of which one you choose I would recommend leaving contrast set at default as it affects the linearity of the grayscale/gamma quite a bit. So you're either gonna clip at 235 or 255. I personally use standard so I can use low lamp mode and get the light output I want and maximize contrast. If I use Super White I have to use high lamp mode. High lamp mode is fine but since I'm used to absolutely NO noise from the fan in low lamp I have a hard time getting used to even a little noise in high lamp. Even if the only time I notice it is when there isn't a movie playing or if I really listen for it during a really quiet passage. Go figure.

So if I use Super White and raise the contrast to clip at say 242 (half way between 235-255) it will change the greyscale compared to setting at 235 right?

If you used Super White and set contrast to clip at 235 would it produce the same greyscale as setting to standard 235?

I tried Standard last night and could only see 233 last night on the contrast test pattern. So I was loosing 234.

I watched some Game of Thrones afterwards and I was a lot more impressed than what I have seen previous. I had the occasional blooming in white areas. Nothing major.

What if I used Super White and clipped to say 237-240. Will that change greyscale much compared to standard 235?
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post #4112 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Badas View Post

So if I use Super White and raise the contrast to clip at say 242 (half way between 235-255) it will change the greyscale compared to setting at 235 right?

If you used Super White and set contrast to clip at 235 would it produce the same greyscale as setting to standard 235?

I tried Standard last night and could only see 233 last night on the contrast test pattern. So I was loosing 234.

I watched some Game of Thrones afterwards and I was a lot more impressed than what I have seen previous. I had the occasional blooming in white areas. Nothing major.

What if I used Super White and clipped to say 237-240. Will that change greyscale much compared to standard 235?

No it would not produce the same as the levels are driven different. I would use one or the other. If you set it to standard and have contrast set at 0 you should see all the way to digital 235. If you use Superwhite I would suggest leaving the contrast set at 0 as well.

As for clipping, if you leave contrast set at 0 and use standard and you think you are clipping some whites, switch to superwhite on the fly and see if it still looks the same. Most the time it will and it is just an encode issue or that is how it is supposed to look. I can count on one hand how many times I've seen movies that have actual clipping in whites if I use standard vs superwhite.
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post #4113 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 02:15 PM
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Hey, different question.

Those JVC users with the lens cover on the projector. Do you use it?

I looked at mine at it is so far back in the shell / body of the projector that I don't think it would get any dust.

At the moment I have turned the cover off. So I can wipe the lens easily if I need to.

Unlike the JVC's mine does not have a manual release mechanism for the cover. I worry a bit about it's reliability. Any news or reports on that?
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post #4114 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 02:19 PM
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Don't touch the lens if there's only dust on it. Dust will not affect picture quality. You're only going to put micro scratches on the lens surface with frequent "cleanings". As a general rule of thumb leave the cover on when it's not in use. I keep mine on. The manual lens cover that comes with the JVCs is just friction fit. There are felt pads on it so it doesn't scratch anything. It feels like it shouldn't have any reliability issues. Seems like it's decent quality.
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post #4115 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

No it would not produce the same as the levels are driven different. I would use one or the other. If you set it to standard and have contrast set at 0 you should see all the way to digital 235. If you use Superwhite I would suggest leaving the contrast set at 0 as well.

As for clipping, if you leave contrast set at 0 and use standard and you think you are clipping some whites, switch to superwhite on the fly and see if it still looks the same. Most the time it will and it is just an encode issue or that is how it is supposed to look. I can count on one hand how many times I've seen movies that have actual clipping in whites if I use standard vs superwhite.

Okay. Standard it is. Thanks heaps for that. I respect your opinion also. I have read the X700 review many times.

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Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

Don't touch the lens if there's only dust on it. Dust will not affect picture quality. You're only going to put micro scratches on the lens surface with frequent "cleanings". As a general rule of thumb leave the cover on when it's not in use. I keep mine on. The manual lens cover that comes with the JVCs is just friction fit. There are felt pads on it so it doesn't scratch anything. It feels like it shouldn't have any reliability issues. Seems like it's decent quality.

Excellent. I will turn it back on. If I get dust on the lens would compressed air be best for removal.

If it fails can you slide open by manually gripping it and sliding?
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post #4116 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 02:39 PM
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Dust on the lens is not an issue. It will probably effect your OCD more than the image. If you MUST clean it off, use compressed air. NEVER TOUCH THE LENS with anything else, it isn't worth the risk. But you would have to have a massive layer of caked dust to make a difference.
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post #4117 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 02:44 PM
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^

Thanks.

Just checked out your gallery.

What a room. eek.gif You must be proud.

I would spend a whole day checking out every detail of it if I was allowed. wink.gif
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post #4118 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 03:12 PM
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they should call this model the 'T1000' edition from T2... biggrin.gif


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post #4119 of 4136 Old 06-05-2014, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

they should call this model the 'T1000' edition from T2... biggrin.gif

Yeah. I have had all sorts of comments.

Many have compared it to this:



Queen amidala ship from Star Wars

or



The eye from War of the Worlds (2005)

I just wanted something that looked different. Lets face it projectors are ugly. rolleyes.gif I love them tho.
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post #4120 of 4136 Old 06-06-2014, 02:24 PM
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I noticed something rather strange today.

My RS57 is at close to 400 hours. I did a touch up of my calibration settings, from my last calibration about 200 hours ago.

My Ftl reading was 7-8% up! no setting had changed.

I always try to position my probe in order to get the max luminosity reading I can, and I certainly was unable to get such a high reading 200 hours ago, no matter the position. Thats good news!

I am using an EyeOne Pro and chromapure.

The bad new is that I am unsure if my current calibration material is precise enough for proper calibration...

I took 10% steps gray scale readings at 0, 30 min, then 1, 2, 3, and 4 hours, and the results vary a lot, making any minor adjustment useless...the variation happens not only at 10-30% but also at 80-100% readings...

Colors dont vary that much, remaining very stable after a 30 min. warm up.

Also, is it normal for my grayscale readings to vary when I zoom my PJ? I found out that each of my grayscale steps suffers from an increase of blue as I zoom the projector (I zoom for 2.35:1 content)?

Stef
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post #4121 of 4136 Old 06-06-2014, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stef2 View Post

I noticed something rather strange today.

My RS57 is at close to 400 hours. I did a touch up of my calibration settings, from my last calibration about 200 hours ago.

My Ftl reading was 7-8% up! no setting had changed.

I always try to position my probe in order to get the max luminosity reading I can, and I certainly was unable to get such a high reading 200 hours ago, no matter the position. Thats good news!

I am using an EyeOne Pro and chromapure.

The bad new is that I am unsure if my current calibration material is precise enough for proper calibration...

I took 10% steps gray scale readings at 0, 30 min, then 1, 2, 3, and 4 hours, and the results vary a lot, making any minor adjustment useless...the variation happens not only at 10-30% but also at 80-100% readings...

Colors dont vary that much, remaining very stable after a 30 min. warm up.

Also, is it normal for my grayscale readings to vary when I zoom my PJ? I found out that each of my grayscale steps suffers from an increase of blue as I zoom the projector (I zoom for 2.35:1 content)?

There have been reports of increased brightness as the lamp settles in. This is not too uncommon.

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post #4122 of 4136 Old 06-06-2014, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stef2 View Post


Also, is it normal for my grayscale readings to vary when I zoom my PJ? I found out that each of my grayscale steps suffers from an increase of blue as I zoom the projector (I zoom for 2.35:1 content)?

Yes, I know my RS4810 had to be calibrated for 2:35 and 1:85 individually as I use the zoom method for CIH.

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post #4123 of 4136 Old 06-12-2014, 05:03 AM
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Wow, those new forums are such a mess...

I will take a break from AVSforum for the summer, enjoy the sun, my pool and my home theater if it rains (here in Quebec, it rains about five days a week...)

Hopefully, when I come back next september, the forums will be functional again...

Stef
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post #4124 of 4136 Old 06-12-2014, 07:31 AM
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I wouldn't be so hard on them, the do have some bugs to work out, but personally I'm glad they've gone back to vBulletin, there were a number of things about Huddler that never quite matched up to the old vBulletin site.

See what an anamorphoscopic lens can do,
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post #4125 of 4136 Old 06-12-2014, 12:32 PM
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I wouldn't be so hard on them, the do have some bugs to work out, but personally I'm glad they've gone back to vBulletin, there were a number of things about Huddler that never quite matched up to the old vBulletin site.
+1

Whoops, +1 does not meet the minimum character requirements for posting.....

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post #4126 of 4136 Old 06-12-2014, 12:35 PM
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+1

Whoops, +1 does not meet the minimum character requirements for posting.....
We can't just post "+1" anymore??? We're doomed.
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post #4127 of 4136 Old 06-12-2014, 01:41 PM
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Maybe I'm the only one who thinks "+1" posts don't really add anything constructive to the forum

See what an anamorphoscopic lens can do,
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post #4128 of 4136 Old 06-12-2014, 01:45 PM
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Maybe I'm the only one who thinks "+1" posts don't really add anything constructive to the forum
Indeed. That was my point. A little irony there...
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post #4129 of 4136 Old 06-12-2014, 03:27 PM
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Rather than typing "+1" in a new post, just "Like" the post that you, uh, like!
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post #4130 of 4136 Old 06-12-2014, 03:30 PM
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Rather than typing "+1" in a new post, just "Like" the post that you, uh, like!
OK... done!
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post #4131 of 4136 Old 06-15-2014, 08:14 PM
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Hey,

Has anyone come up with a solution for the vertical banding using CMD low?

I like CMD on low and would like to use it.

E-Shift makes it worse. I have turned it off, I can't see any advantage of it anyway.

I have set my Oppo's (103D's) to Y,Cr,Cb 4:4:4 36bits and I think that it has almost eliminated it. I have to do more testing.

However has anyone else found a solution?
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I've seen the banding issue as well. Luckily I don't use CMD. It seems the issue is software based, most likely some sort of dithering issue based on how the new CMD video processing is set up. I don't know if JVC can fix it without changing their CMD implementation again. Most likely. But I doubt were going to see a fix this late in the year. New models are just around the corner.
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post #4133 of 4136 Old 06-15-2014, 08:31 PM
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Cool

I got my projector calibrated because of you guys.

I felt the pressure. However it was worth it.

The calibrator said he will be back in a few weeks when the lamp gets over 200 hours. He said it needs to settle in a bit.

Is that correct?

By the way the Gamma is now excellent. I can't fault it. So thanks for the pressure guys.

Loving the projector. Anyone else using the X900?

The beast goes so damn black. I was watching a film in the weekend and the brightness was going eye squint bright and then with fade to blacks. I couldn't locate where the screen was.

I have actually timed it. If I put on a bright screen and then hit the hide button it takes me 8-10 seconds to locate the edge screen borders. Very, very dark.

I was told by DreamVision when they manufactured mine that they stuck 9 X900's on a table and had their head Tech choose the best one. All because of that limited edition paint job (which they have now stopped as it was too difficult to produce). So I ran the test that others have talked about. Black Uniformity, White Uniformity, Lens sharpness and panel alignment. I can report that I got a very good unit. Black is very, very dark with no glowing edges at all. White is very close to perfect, Lens is close to perfect as you can get (I ran a full white screen to look at pixel structure). Panel alignment has touches of mis-alignment, bugger all, so I have left.

Very happy customer. This projector is a keeper.

Last edited by Badas; 06-15-2014 at 08:34 PM.
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post #4134 of 4136 Old 08-16-2014, 07:36 AM
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Hey Guys, i know its been a few months since most of you have had your projectors, alot of you seem to be real advanced at configuring your units, i've been slowly waiting for the newest version of calman5 to support these units with there autocal feature, i spoke to them again today and there still working on it seems when i call every 2 weeks there always 2 weeks out.. i had mentioned to them that i was using a Lumagen mini3D unit in conjunction with my projector and the guy on the phone had said i would be better off calibrating the Lumagen for the JVC, he said i would probably get a better end result vs even when there software is ready and has the autocal feature for the JVC, does anyone here use a lumagen with there JVC projector and have preformed a calibration on there unit? if so just wondering where to start what base settings and picture modes i should be using on the JVC to get the best end result...

Thanks
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post #4135 of 4136 Old 08-16-2014, 08:16 AM
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Hey Guys, i know its been a few months since most of you have had your projectors, alot of you seem to be real advanced at configuring your units, i've been slowly waiting for the newest version of calman5 to support these units with there autocal feature, i spoke to them again today and there still working on it seems when i call every 2 weeks there always 2 weeks out.. i had mentioned to them that i was using a Lumagen mini3D unit in conjunction with my projector and the guy on the phone had said i would be better off calibrating the Lumagen for the JVC, he said i would probably get a better end result vs even when there software is ready and has the autocal feature for the JVC, does anyone here use a lumagen with there JVC projector and have preformed a calibration on there unit? if so just wondering where to start what base settings and picture modes i should be using on the JVC to get the best end result...

Thanks
Here are some settings I posted elsewhere for my 4910. After I posted these, I decided to dial back the brightness setting to 0. The autocal through the Lumagen Mini gives great results and is easy to do once you get over a bit of the learning curve of using Calman's software. You will need to overcome that learning curve regardless of whether you are using Calman to autocal the JVC directly or through a Lumagen.

Color Profile, Color Temp., and Gamma are all set to Custom 1
Contrast, Color, and Tint = 0
Brightness = 3
In the Color Profile menu, Color Management = Off
In the Color Temp menu, Correction Value = 6500K, Gain Red = 0, Gain Green = -10, Gain Blue = -13, Offset Red = -2, Offset Green = 0, Offset Blue = -4
In the Gamma menu, Correction Value = 2.2, for the color white I have Picture Tone = 0, Dark Level = 1, Bright Level = 0, all others at defaults

I use Calman's 125-point autocal feature with a Lumagen Mini, where I manually set the black floor to 0.01 cd/m2 and set it to calculate a BT.1886 gamma curve. This mainly approximates a 2.4 gamma for most stimulus levels, but I had to set the JVC to 2.2 for the autocal to effectively achieve the correct curve. I tried other gamma settings in the JVC, but for some reason values closer to my actual target didn't leave enough headroom (or perhaps there is some other explanation) for the Calman/Lumagen combo to do its thing. In any event, I really like the results.

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post #4136 of 4136 Old 08-23-2014, 12:11 PM
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X700 Calibration

I originally posted this over on the X700 owners thread, but i think it applies here too as everyone should have a calibrated projector... X500,X700,X900

So i finally got around to calibrating my JVC x700 with some help... One of the industry's pros, Michael Chen from http://www.tlvexp.ca/ came over to my place and gave me some training on calman5, he spent over 8 hours with me in 2 days giving me the whole rundown on the history of TV,Color space, terminology and why we calibrate... the first day was great got a better understanding of REC 709, Gamma, contrast, brightness, etc and how everything fits together, day 2 we started on my JVC x700 we turned off a few options that i had on like keystone (-2), auto iris, etc some basic items that are usually on out of the box. We started off by doing Brightness, Contrast, Tint & Color with some basic slides form Spears & Munsil, DVE & Disney WOW, after that we Proceeded to use the latest Calman5, my i1display pro and my lumagen mini( for more test patterns), unfortunately i didn't do a pre cal to show you the difference but attached is my post calibration results, the Gamma is set to 2.1 on the projector seems to be a offset of .2 from the software and the setting on the device, originally we started off with 2.0 and were receiving 2.2 as end result. Michael explained how the film industry range is typically 2.2-2.6 and most films are produced anywhere between the 2.2 and 2.4 range, so with that in mind... and not knowing if a movie is 2.2,2.3 or 2.4 we decided on setting the projector in 2.3 as an end result would be best..

Here is the results









as far as the PQ, i've never seen the picture look so good, I watch Divergent last night and the PQ and black levels, were Amazing i'm only 87 hours in on the projector and every other Bluray i have watched to this point has never looked this good, getting a private lesson from Michael was definitely worth it, this is the first projector that i've did properly, i've owned calman and the i1display for 2ish years now and attempted to do calibration on my old projectors but it was never this drastic of a change. if anyone has the opportunity to pay someone to calibrate your projector or teach you the process i would say its definitely worth doing for the cost of a lesson/calibration and the amount these projectors cost its almost a no brainer....
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