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post #31 of 51 Old 08-31-2013, 08:16 AM
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Hanging out at AVS is costing me a fortune. LOL. I've gone from getting a cheap projejctor for under $1000 to one at $2900. Now a UPS (still have to get it) but worse than that I'm going to get an electrician in and do it right. The outlet in the ceiling is getting power from the wall where the dimmer switches are. He is going to run that wire through to the laundry room and to the electrical panel and give it it's own breaker. Then connect it to the UPS so that when I plug the projector into the ceiling outlet it will be on UPS. Or something like that. He know what I need and knows what he's doing.

So 1000va/600w would be sufficient for the UPS?
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post #32 of 51 Old 09-02-2013, 09:50 AM
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So is it OK to use a regular ups or do I need one designed or so they say for AV equipment. APC has this http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=J25B&total_watts=400

I can save $100+ and get a CP1000PFCLCD.
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post #33 of 51 Old 09-02-2013, 02:11 PM
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I think in most cases it's 'snake oil'. all good electronics have the same kind of circuitry built into them to prevent voltage spikes from affecting performance. maybe once in a 100 thousand times it'll save a capacitor or something, but I don't think it's cheap insurance personally.

but I would absolutely encourage you to do your own research on the subject. I just came to the conclusion that no matter what you use there's a risk of damage, and I didn't feel that risk was very high to begin with, so the reduced risk of the pure sine wave, or extra bells and whistles wasn't really the point of the UPS. it was to keep the power flowing long enough to shut down my gear safely, and so far the cyberpower ones have done exactly that for me.

I would think 1000VA's would be plenty for just a projector. but with what I assume your electrician will be doing, i'm thinking the price of the UPS itself won't be the major cost. so if there's anything else you might want to have protected as well, it might make more sense to spend the extra 30 or 50bux to get a 1350VA or 1500VA.

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post #34 of 51 Old 09-02-2013, 03:00 PM
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The only thing the electrician is doing is wiring so the outlet in the ceiling is connected to a UPS which will be near the electrical panel. The STB, BDP, etc. which will be below the screen will plug into a seperate UPS. With the added cost of letting the electrician do his thing for the projector I may just opt for the 1000VA UPS.
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post #35 of 51 Old 09-02-2013, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

I think in most cases it's 'snake oil'. all good electronics have the same kind of circuitry built into them to prevent voltage spikes

but I would absolutely encourage you to do your own research on the subject. I just came to the conclusion that no matter what you use there's a risk of damage, and I didn't feel that risk was very high to begin with, so the reduced risk of the pure sine wave, or extra bells and whistles wasn't really the point of the UPS. it was to keep the power flowing long enough to shut down my gear safely, and so far the cyberpower ones have done exactly that for me.

I would think 1000VA's would be plenty for just a projector. but with what I assume your electrician will be doing, i'm thinking the price of the UPS itself won't be the major cost. so if there's anything else you might want to have protected as well, it might make more sense to spend the extra 30 or 50bux to get a 1350VA or 1500VA.

I agree with this, the main purpose of the UPS is to keep the power up long enough to shut down, though in some parts of the US the quality of electricity is not as good, there can be brownouts or voltage dips, and those can damage electronics. Depends where you live, most well-to-do neighborhoods aren't going to have the problem as much.

That said, some electronics are made cheaply, and in that case the Voltage Regulated UPS may save you. UPS's are cheap enough where it's worth the extra piece of mind.


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post #36 of 51 Old 09-03-2013, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you guys leave your ups on even when your not using your projector?
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post #37 of 51 Old 09-03-2013, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dholmes54 View Post

Do you guys leave your ups on even when your not using your projector?
Yes, the cable box and HDMI switch are plugged in so why turn it off. Even off it is going to use power so let it on, especially if runs self tests.. I have the LED and alarm turned off but leave them all on even the one for just the projector.
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post #38 of 51 Old 09-03-2013, 10:31 AM
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I also leave mine on, but like above, it's powering many things.

on one I have: receiver, xbox, ps3, wii. and on the non-battery plugs I have cable, tv, dvd player, power hdmi splitter

on the second: HTPC, half a dozen ext HDD's, router, wifi. non-battery plugs power the printer, a small tv, and a couple misc chargers

the HTPC runs all the time as it's basically a server for the other pc's I have hooked up to TV's around the house. for me it's definitely not convenient or practical to turn off the UPS's as i'm using something plugged into them almost constantly. I suppose if I were to go away for a week or two on vacation, it would be very easy to simply turn off the UPS instead of unplugging all my gear though, assuming I didn't have tv shows I wanted to pvr while I was gone tongue.gif

both mine are 'greenpower' which supposedly reduces the amount of wasted energy when they sit idle. it shouldn't be much more costly than leaving your projector plugged in when not using it.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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post #39 of 51 Old 09-03-2013, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squigly1 View Post

The only thing the electrician is doing is wiring so the outlet in the ceiling is connected to a UPS which will be near the electrical panel. The STB, BDP, etc. which will be below the screen will plug into a seperate UPS. With the added cost of letting the electrician do his thing for the projector I may just opt for the 1000VA UPS.

oh, I thought he was running a completely new circuit and wiring in the ceiling(I assumed the ceiling was finished) which would have been a fair amount of work. definitely better off spending the money on a second UPS for your receiver etc than for that apc one you posted.

I got the 1000va for around 100bux. if you can wait, grab one on sale. i'd say 120 would be about my cut off point to pull the trigger. the best is if you can find one place that price matches with a high price and then another with it on sale. that's how I got mine for the price I did. if there's a memoryexpress close to you, that's the way to go. just print off some prices you find online and take it to the store and ask for a price match.

some possible PM opportunities:$131 http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3836360&CatId=234
$127 http://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-9-Outlet-Intelligent-1000VA/dp/B000QZ3UG0
memoryexpress has it listed at 150 currently, so you'd be looking around 125 after price beat

you could try the 1500VA as well: $170 http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=42010&promoid=1190
at memoryexpress it's $210, and I believe they do a 25% price beat, so you'd get it for around $160

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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post #40 of 51 Old 09-03-2013, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

oh, I thought he was running a completely new circuit and wiring in the ceiling(I assumed the ceiling was finished) which would have been a fair amount of work. definitely better off spending the money on a second UPS for your receiver etc than for that apc one you posted.

I got the 1000va for around 100bux. if you can wait, grab one on sale. i'd say 120 would be about my cut off point to pull the trigger. the best is if you can find one place that price matches with a high price and then another with it on sale. that's how I got mine for the price I did. if there's a memoryexpress close to you, that's the way to go. just print off some prices you find online and take it to the store and ask for a price match.

some possible PM opportunities:$131 http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3836360&CatId=234
$127 http://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-9-Outlet-Intelligent-1000VA/dp/B000QZ3UG0
memoryexpress has it listed at 150 currently, so you'd be looking around 125 after price beat

you could try the 1500VA as well: $170 http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=42010&promoid=1190
at memoryexpress it's $210, and I believe they do a 25% price beat, so you'd get it for around $160

I'm no electrician haha. I believe he is taking the power for the ceiling outlet which is coming from the wall where the dimmers are and running it to the panel in the laundry room. He will connect it to a new breaker so it on its own. Somehow, and I'm not sure how, he will the run a connection from that breaker to a new plug near where the panel is. I plug the UPS into that outlet. He'll run another connection from that breaker and plug it into the UPS. When I plug in the projector to the ceiling it is then connected to the UPS. Until I get the UPS the outlet in the ceiling will still work. As I said I'm no electrician so I'm probably describing this incorrectly. He knows what I want and said it would be no problem. I was just going to run an extension cord from a UPS in the room to the ceiling but he didn't like that idea. What does he care about my money. As long as it works I'll be happy and It will look better than running an extension cord. He should be here Friday and I'll report back.

As for the UPS, I was thinking about the CP1000PFCLCD rather than the AVRLCD. The PFC is the Pure Sinewave model. Best Direct has it for $144 with free shipping, The Receiver, STB, BDP will be on a smaller rated APC UPS which I should replace with a higher rated one as the receiver was never plugged into the battery side as I didn't use it to watch regular TV. The power never went off while I've had it on but now that I'm getting a projector the receiver will be on all the time so the UPS will need more capacity. Since I'm going to use a UPS with the receiver I should get a 1500va for it. I'm guessing 900w is enough for it and the few other things that will be plugged into the UPS.

The only question is do I need the PFC model or not?
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post #41 of 51 Old 09-03-2013, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks, ill just leave it on.
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post #42 of 51 Old 09-04-2013, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squigly1 View Post

I'm no electrician haha. I believe he is taking the power for the ceiling outlet which is coming from the wall where the dimmers are and running it to the panel in the laundry room. He will connect it to a new breaker so it on its own. Somehow, and I'm not sure how, he will the run a connection from that breaker to a new plug near where the panel is. I plug the UPS into that outlet. He'll run another connection from that breaker and plug it into the UPS. When I plug in the projector to the ceiling it is then connected to the UPS. Until I get the UPS the outlet in the ceiling will still work. As I said I'm no electrician so I'm probably describing this incorrectly. He knows what I want and said it would be no problem. I was just going to run an extension cord from a UPS in the room to the ceiling but he didn't like that idea. What does he care about my money. As long as it works I'll be happy and It will look better than running an extension cord. He should be here Friday and I'll report back.

As for the UPS, I was thinking about the CP1000PFCLCD rather than the AVRLCD. The PFC is the Pure Sinewave model. Best Direct has it for $144 with free shipping, The Receiver, STB, BDP will be on a smaller rated APC UPS which I should replace with a higher rated one as the receiver was never plugged into the battery side as I didn't use it to watch regular TV. The power never went off while I've had it on but now that I'm getting a projector the receiver will be on all the time so the UPS will need more capacity. Since I'm going to use a UPS with the receiver I should get a 1500va for it. I'm guessing 900w is enough for it and the few other things that will be plugged into the UPS.

The only question is do I need the PFC model or not?

running extension cord wouldn't work, you can't run stranded wires in-wall. doesn't matter though, as long as your guy knows what you want you should be golden.

doesn't really matter which UPS you go with, i'd still try to use somebody's pricematch policy(memoryexpress is just the best I've used) to get it even cheaper.i think the PFC models are specifically designed for PFC power supplies used by some computer manufacturers. it's pretty unlikely you'd need that feature for any other electronics(although you probably want to double check whatever you intend to plug in isn't PFC). I went with the avr model I posted, and it's been just fine(my gear has run off battery power 3 or 4 times), but i'm no expert either.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
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post #43 of 51 Old 09-06-2013, 06:20 PM
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i didn't mean run the extension cord inside the ceiling but rather either down to the back of the room and then down to the floor where I'd put the UPS or across the room to the side wall, down to the floor and then down to the back of the room to the UPS. In both cases I could have used raceways to make it look better. In the end the electrician did his thing. A few holes in the ceiling in the hall and then ran the wire to the panel. Put it on its own breaker. Wired the breaker to an outlet and built a cord w/plug that currently plugs into the outlet. With that, the outlet in the ceiling has power. From the panel area if I disconnect the plug or flip the breaker the projector gets no power. Once I get the UPS I unplug the cord in that outlet near the panel and plug it into the UPS. Plug the UPS into the outlet and the projector is now connected to the UPS. At least that is the way it is supposed to work.

Now to get a UPS and hopefully one on sale.
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post #44 of 51 Old 09-07-2013, 03:31 PM
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i think that is exactly what i'll do when i find a good deal. i'll replaced my 1000VA i'm using for my tv, receiver, game consoles, etc with a 1500VA(the 1000VA isn't enough to power the TV, so i had to remove that from the battery backed up outlets) and move the 1000VA to the floor near the projector. then run the solid core wiring from the outlet already installed in the ceiling to another outlet i'll install near the floor (making the floor outlet effectively the 'input' for the ceiling power), and then i just need to run an extension cord from the UPS to the 'input' socket. might be slightly confusing to others if i ever move out, but should be legal and certainly not dangerous

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post #45 of 51 Old 09-23-2013, 05:44 AM
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post #46 of 51 Old 04-26-2014, 10:33 PM
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Any experience with these pure sine wave power conditioners/ups from Cyberpower? I find so hard to believe that those devices from Cyberpower really delivers based on the high prices of the competitors like APC, Panamax, etc...
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post #47 of 51 Old 04-26-2014, 10:40 PM
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I've been running a Cyberpower for about the last month with my RS4810. So far, so good.

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post #48 of 51 Old 04-26-2014, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by obonillaf View Post

Any experience with these pure sine wave power conditioners/ups from Cyberpower? I find so hard to believe that those devices from Cyberpower really delivers based on the high prices of the competitors like APC, Panamax, etc...

I've run more than 10 projectors on a Cyberpower that isn't even pure-sine and it's now about 5-6 years old I believe, still works great even on its original battery.
Never had a problem with a Cyberpower, APCs on the other hand, had plenty of problems with them. Cyberpower has been delivering for low cost for years.
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post #49 of 51 Old 04-28-2014, 02:03 PM
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Is it ok to use an extension cord between the projector and the UPS? I ask this because of the place I'm going to install the projector I can't place the UPS next to it and the projector power cord isn't long enough to reach the UPS. THank you.
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post #50 of 51 Old 04-28-2014, 02:55 PM
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as long as it's of sufficient gauge, shouldn't be an issue

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #51 of 51 Old 04-28-2014, 09:12 PM
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as long as it's of sufficient gauge, shouldn't be an issue

Thank you.
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