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post #1 of 51 Old 08-16-2013, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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My Epson 6020 says it consumes 375 watts do I really need to use a ups system that is rated at twice that(700-750) just to keep the fan running to cool it when the power goes out,wouldnt one rated at about the same 375 be enough? thanks
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post #2 of 51 Old 08-16-2013, 08:31 PM
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I use one that is rated at 600watts and plug in the cable box and HDMI switch and receiver so when we have a blip everything stays up.. cable box takes forever to boot so for a 3 second dip you UPS keeps the projector going but you gota wait for the box to boot. Also have the Verizon Fios ONT on a UPS as well as the router.. Don't want to miss GOT or True blood for a power drip..!

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post #3 of 51 Old 08-17-2013, 06:06 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks the only thing I would use the ups for is the projector
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post #4 of 51 Old 08-17-2013, 11:42 AM
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When you experience a power failure, and lose of course your sound (the clue!), you should immediately power-off your projector and thus your UPS is really only powering the PJ's fan, and not the high-wattage lamp.

No worries IMO for the smaller UPS, if you (or your family) act quickly on a PF.
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post #5 of 51 Old 08-17-2013, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dholmes54 View Post

thanks the only thing I would use the ups for is the projector

Might be wise to hook up Sat or cable DVR.

I have my router, sat DVR, processor and projector all hooked up..........

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post #6 of 51 Old 08-17-2013, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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the only movie source in my ht is blu-ray-dvd.I live in a remote area and the cable tv system is only good at best not hd,its a tv-phone-internet service.I got APC ups rated at 430 watts,the projector is 375 watts so if thats the only thing i plug into it I should be ok.thanks
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post #7 of 51 Old 08-17-2013, 10:24 PM
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i'm wondering a similar thing. I already have two UPS's. one at the front of the room for the receiver and sources, one at the back for my HTPC and HDD's. I would like to get one for the projector, but i have a plug on the ceiling, and there's a huge difference in weight and size between 300-400w vs 600+

my other concern is that i when i bought my new tv(64" f8500) it uses so much power on bright scenes that it was overloading my UPS at the front so i had to change it from a battery power plug to a normal surge protected one. so whether or not my projector only needs to have the fan powered, it still needs to support full power for when it's in use. it won't do me any good to have to plug the projector into the ups AFTER the power failure just to get the fan to run. that makes no sense.

my question is, if a projector is rated at 375watts(or whatever), does that mean 'typical' or 'max' power? if that's max power i can get a 400-450w ups that is small and light enough to sit on top of my projector. anything more than that really needs to be on the floor/shelf.

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post #8 of 51 Old 08-17-2013, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

i'm wondering a similar thing. I already have two UPS's. one at the front of the room for the receiver and sources, one at the back for my HTPC and HDD's. I would like to get one for the projector, but i have a plug on the ceiling, and there's a huge difference in weight and size between 300-400w vs 600+

my other concern is that i when i bought my new tv(64" f8500) it uses so much power on bright scenes that it was overloading my UPS at the front so i had to change it from a battery power plug to a normal surge protected one.


I have access (from my workplace) to a large variety of professional grade UPS models to play with. None of those that are even reasonably portable (meaning a strong guy could actually pick up and carry it) could handle the power demands of my 50 inch Pioneer plasma tv. I don't think that's a workable scenario. But projectors require nothing like that amount of power.


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post #9 of 51 Old 08-17-2013, 11:57 PM
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There are 3 factors to account for in a UPS :
1) UPS are rated in VAs (VoltsxAmperes), not in Watts; usually, W = 0.6 x VA (approximately)
2) Most UPS have a fan; this fan is silent only when the UPS runs below 60-70% of its maximum rated power (that even applies when the AC power is still on)
3) As Pb batteries in UPS age, the maximum deliverable power for the UPS diminishes, unless you replace immediately the (expensive) battery

All in all, I would say using a UPS with a VA rating of twice the projector W rating is the MINIMUM you should do.
Also, try to buy one which self tests regularly its battery (like APC Smart-UPS); otherwise you will discover when you finally need your UPS that... it does not work because its battery is dead (around 4 years usable life).
Some people insist on using a UPS with a true sine wave output for projectors. They are more expensive, but you may consider that as an extra "feel safe" option.
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post #10 of 51 Old 08-18-2013, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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the one I got is a smart ups by apc,its rated at 700 va,cant find that rating on the projector.thanks
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post #11 of 51 Old 08-18-2013, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by John Clark View Post

I have access (from my workplace) to a large variety of professional grade UPS models to play with. None of those that are even reasonably portable (meaning a strong guy could actually pick up and carry it) could handle the power demands of my 50 inch Pioneer plasma tv. I don't think that's a workable scenario. But projectors require nothing like that amount of power.


John

I think you've combined two separate issues. i'm not looking for a UPS that is small enough to mount on the projector and powerful enough for my tv tongue.gif

I want a UPS for my projector, hopefully one that doesn't weigh 30+lbs like the two I currently have.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
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post #12 of 51 Old 08-18-2013, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by geeji View Post

There are 3 factors to account for in a UPS :
1) UPS are rated in VAs (VoltsxAmperes), not in Watts; usually, W = 0.6 x VA (approximately)
2) Most UPS have a fan; this fan is silent only when the UPS runs below 60-70% of its maximum rated power (that even applies when the AC power is still on)
3) As Pb batteries in UPS age, the maximum deliverable power for the UPS diminishes, unless you replace immediately the (expensive) battery

All in all, I would say using a UPS with a VA rating of twice the projector W rating is the MINIMUM you should do.
Also, try to buy one which self tests regularly its battery (like APC Smart-UPS); otherwise you will discover when you finally need your UPS that... it does not work because its battery is dead (around 4 years usable life).
Some people insist on using a UPS with a true sine wave output for projectors. They are more expensive, but you may consider that as an extra "feel safe" option.

you really think I need to get a 800w UPS(I know they aren't rated in watts, but it's almost always specified and easier to compare) to run the fan on my projector?

I was hoping to use something like this: http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX26825

as it's only about 7lbs

I picked up a pair of these on sale: http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX26907 and have been happy with them so far. only had a couple power blips(at least that I've been around for) and they've been good. my goal is just to be able to power things down safely. I have considered buying a larger UPS to use with my TV again(makes shutting things down easier if I have a display, haha) and move one of the 1000's to the projector, but it's a large, heavy piece of gear and would really clutter up my projector install.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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post #13 of 51 Old 08-18-2013, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
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like laserfan said as long as you act quickly when power goes out & power down your projector my projector should be ok,it consumes 375 watts and my ups has 430 watts to let the projector power down and run the fan to cool the bulb.
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post #14 of 51 Old 08-21-2013, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeji View Post

There are 3 factors to account for in a UPS :
1) UPS are rated in VAs (VoltsxAmperes), not in Watts; usually, W = 0.6 x VA (approximately)
2) Most UPS have a fan; this fan is silent only when the UPS runs below 60-70% of its maximum rated power (that even applies when the AC power is still on)
3) As Pb batteries in UPS age, the maximum deliverable power for the UPS diminishes, unless you replace immediately the (expensive) battery

All in all, I would say using a UPS with a VA rating of twice the projector W rating is the MINIMUM you should do.
Also, try to buy one which self tests regularly its battery (like APC Smart-UPS); otherwise you will discover when you finally need your UPS that... it does not work because its battery is dead (around 4 years usable life).
Some people insist on using a UPS with a true sine wave output for projectors. They are more expensive, but you may consider that as an extra "feel safe" option.

So for a projector that is 330 watts something like this CyberPower CP850PFCLCD which is 850VA / 510W Pure Sine Wave UPS would be more than suitable, correct?
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post #15 of 51 Old 08-21-2013, 05:03 PM
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CyberPowers are my favorite UPS's, the batteries they put in them are HIGH quality, they last forever. I haven't changed my battery in 5 years and it still works like it is new. The higher VA you get, the longer the battery might last (maybe), because as the battery loses juice it takes a lot less power to do 20% load then to do 80% load.

You don't technically need a PureSine one, but if it gives you peace of mind and it doesn't cost much more really, then go for it. I think mine is 1500 VA or something like that, but 1000+VA should be more than enough. 850 VA would work, but I'd probably go a bit higher since it doesn't cost much more to go up a step or two.



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post #16 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 12:06 AM
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So for a projector that is 330 watts something like this CyberPower CP850PFCLCD which is 850VA / 510W Pure Sine Wave UPS would be more than suitable, correct
Yes.
The main cost of a higher power UPS is not so much the buying price (the difference between a 500VA and a 1000VA is not that great), but the maintenance cost of a larger UPS will be higher : with twice the power, any UPS will need Pb batteries with twice the Axh rating, batteries which will have to be replaced every 4-5 years.
And even if you try to be clever and buy "naked" Yuasa batteries from eBay instead of the UPS supplier (usually selling them twice as expensive), after the second battery replacement, you will have paid your UPS a second time.
But that's the price to pay to avoid the price of a much more costly replacement of all your audio/video/computer hardware...
To give a single example, after a power outage, the lamp of my Sony VPL-VW100 would not ignite anymore : a $400 replacement cost, about 2 times the cost of a proper UPS...
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post #17 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

CyberPowers are my favorite UPS's, the batteries they put in them are HIGH quality, they last forever. I haven't changed my battery in 5 years and it still works like it is new. The higher VA you get, the longer the battery might last (maybe), because as the battery loses juice it takes a lot less power to do 20% load then to do 80% load.

You don't technically need a PureSine one, but if it gives you peace of mind and it doesn't cost much more really, then go for it. I think mine is 1500 VA or something like that, but 1000+VA should be more than enough. 850 VA would work, but I'd probably go a bit higher since it doesn't cost much more to go up a step or two.

The 850VA version is only $114 on Amazon so not to bad for a PureSine UPS.

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Originally Posted by geeji View Post

Yes.
The main cost of a higher power UPS is not so much the buying price (the difference between a 500VA and a 1000VA is not that great), but the maintenance cost of a larger UPS will be higher : with twice the power, any UPS will need Pb batteries with twice the Axh rating, batteries which will have to be replaced every 4-5 years.
And even if you try to be clever and buy "naked" Yuasa batteries from eBay instead of the UPS supplier (usually selling them twice as expensive), after the second battery replacement, you will have paid your UPS a second time.
But that's the price to pay to avoid the price of a much more costly replacement of all your audio/video/computer hardware...
To give a single example, after a power outage, the lamp of my Sony VPL-VW100 would not ignite anymore : a $400 replacement cost, about 2 times the cost of a proper UPS...

Thanks for the tips, I ordered one should be here in a few days and I won't have to worry about power outage's that seem to frequent my area in spurts.
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post #18 of 51 Old 08-22-2013, 09:57 PM
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The 850VA version is only $114 on Amazon so not to bad for a PureSine UPS.
Thanks for the tips, I ordered one should be here in a few days and I won't have to worry about power outage's that seem to frequent my area in spurts.



That's shockingly affordable for a good quality UPS. Has anyone else had any experience with CyberPower UPS's?


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post #19 of 51 Old 08-23-2013, 04:19 AM
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That's shockingly affordable for a good quality UPS. Has anyone else had any experience with CyberPower UPS's?
I have two of the 850s and like them a lot, though I've not owned them long enough to say how durable they are. I did have some CyberPowers of an older design years ago that failed on me.

Not sure $114 is "shockingly affordable" but FWIW I paid $113 each for mine on sale from Newegg back in January of this year.

I do use mine for PCs and not HT, though I see no reason they wouldn't be fine for that (except maybe the form-factor isn't ideal, as Upright units).
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post #20 of 51 Old 08-23-2013, 04:23 PM
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I have two of the 850s and like them a lot, though I've not owned them long enough to say how durable they are. I did have some CyberPowers of an older design years ago that failed on me.

Not sure $114 is "shockingly affordable" but FWIW I paid $113 each for mine on sale from Newegg back in January of this year.

I do use mine for PCs and not HT, though I see no reason they wouldn't be fine for that (except maybe the form-factor isn't ideal, as Upright units).

agreed. i have a couple cyberpower 1000va's and got them for a little under 100bux a piece and thought that was finally reasonable, haha, definitely not shockingly affordable.

anyway, i've only had them for about 8 months now, but so far they do exactly what i need them to. when the power goes out, my computer stays on and shuts itself down safely if i'm not around to do it.

i was convinced into buying them because a couple years ago a couple quick power outages destroyed the power supply in my HTPC. of course, it was only about a 20dollar repair, so it's not really a financially driven decision as much as it is a convenience and 'some things can't be replaced' decision. i would like to get one for the projector as well, that one would be more for insurance purposes.

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post #21 of 51 Old 08-23-2013, 09:08 PM
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Not sure $114 is "shockingly affordable" but FWIW I paid $113 each for mine on sale from Newegg back in January of this year.

I deal with UPS's in both a professional and personal capacity. If these CyberPower units can deliver, they are the only ones I have ever seen that can do so under $500.00. Ever.


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post #22 of 51 Old 08-23-2013, 09:38 PM
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I deal with UPS's in both a professional and personal capacity. If these CyberPower units can deliver, they are the only ones I have ever seen that can do so under $500.00. Ever.


John

deliver what? 100% fool proof, guaranteed nothing will ever, ever go wrong? that's likely asking a lot

but if all you need is the power to keep flowing for a couple minutes until you can safely power down your gear, yeah, they do that. it's not a pro grade product, i might not trust it to keep a life support system going, or the security system in a bank, but for keeping my xbox on long enough to finish saving my game, i think i'm fine, haha. biggrin.gif

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post #23 of 51 Old 08-23-2013, 10:24 PM
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I picked up a couple of these at Costco. I paid about $130.00 each.

http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups-systems/intelligent-lcd-ups/cp1350avrlcd.html
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post #24 of 51 Old 08-25-2013, 10:11 PM
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i'm thinking I might just pick up one of these: http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX25573 for my tv/receiver/xbox and move the 1000VA to the projector.

as far as cost goes, it's not a big difference, I was just hoping to find a smaller UPS than the 1000VA to mount up near the ceiling where the plug is for the projector. kind of defeats the purpose of installing a new electrical plug in the ceiling if I need to run a power cord(maybe even extension cord, cause I think the cord is only 6' long) to the ground and then the projectors power cord back up.

just gotta wait for somebody else to have it on sale. memory express has a killer price beat offer, I should be able to get these under 150 if I wait for their sale to end and somebody else to have one.

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post #25 of 51 Old 08-26-2013, 04:16 AM
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i'm thinking I might just pick up one of these: http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX25573 for my tv/receiver/xbox and move the 1000VA to the projector.

as far as cost goes, it's not a big difference, I was just hoping to find a smaller UPS than the 1000VA to mount up near the ceiling where the plug is for the projector. kind of defeats the purpose of installing a new electrical plug in the ceiling if I need to run a power cord(maybe even extension cord, cause I think the cord is only 6' long) to the ground and then the projectors power cord back up.

just gotta wait for somebody else to have it on sale. memory express has a killer price beat offer, I should be able to get these under 150 if I wait for their sale to end and somebody else to have one.

Have you talked to your electrician to see if there is a more viable way to provide UPS protection near the panel?

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post #26 of 51 Old 08-26-2013, 12:21 PM
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Have you talked to your electrician to see if there is a more viable way to provide UPS protection near the panel?
have not talked to an electrician no. I've done the wiring myself. I suppose there could be a more advanced way, I could run a second outlet near the ground that carries power from the UPS up to the outlet in the ceiling, but that would require some ceiling repair. I had a 6'x4' hole in my ceiling due to water damage that gave me great access to wire everything up. I've since patched that hole and don't really care to do that again, haha. only thing i'd really willing to tackle right now would be to run an extension cord through the single gang opening in my ceiling mounted outlet and install a second opening near the bottom of the wall to plug into the UPS. i'd have to figure out if I have a clear shot down that side wall first though.

I still think the most time and cost effective solution is to figure out a way to get a shelf up near the projector that I can put the UPS on.

not the greatest pic, but you can kind of see I have some space between the mount arm and the wall, above the projector where the 1000VA(or smaller) UPS would fit.

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post #27 of 51 Old 08-26-2013, 12:47 PM
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If you already have romex run to the projector and it is tied into the panel, remove it from the panel, use a power bridge from monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=104&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042513&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=1#largeimage install the piece on the right in a box near the panel. Then use the cord that comes with it to connect your UPS to the power bridge, plug the ups in , done. If you don't have a receptacle at the projector end, use the one that comes in the power bridge kit.

Doug

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post #28 of 51 Old 08-26-2013, 01:53 PM
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If you already have romex run to the projector and it is tied into the panel, remove it from the panel, use a power bridge from monoprice http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=104&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042513&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=1#largeimage install the piece on the right in a box near the panel. Then use the cord that comes with it to connect your UPS to the power bridge, plug the ups in , done. If you don't have a receptacle at the projector end, use the one that comes in the power bridge kit.

hmm, that could work. i'll probably have to move that outlet from the ceiling to a spot near the ground for the UPS to plug into, but otherwise that's pretty good. seems a little pricey for what you get though. scared to look at what a non-monoprice version costs, haha

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post #29 of 51 Old 08-26-2013, 02:00 PM
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hmm, that could work. i'll probably have to move that outlet from the ceiling to a spot near the ground for the UPS to plug into, but otherwise that's pretty good. seems a little pricey for what you get though. scared to look at what a non-monoprice version costs, haha

Maybe I did not understand what you have..
You use the normal recessed outlet at the projector in the ceiling or the one you have up there now. At the other end of the romex line that would connect to the panel, you connect to the outlet with the prongs (mounted in a box in the wall) Then you plug your ups into some other outlet near by (or add a new one there) and patch the UPS to the pronged outlet with the special cord. If you got all that the first time,sorry.. I did nod understand what you were saying wit moving the outlet near the projector..
Good luck!

Doug

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post #30 of 51 Old 08-26-2013, 02:21 PM
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Maybe I did not understand what you have..
You use the normal recessed outlet at the projector in the ceiling or the one you have up there now. At the other end of the romex line that would connect to the panel, you connect to the outlet with the prongs (mounted in a box in the wall) Then you plug your ups into some other outlet near by (or add a new one there) and patch the UPS to the pronged outlet with the special cord. If you got all that the first time,sorry.. I did nod understand what you were saying wit moving the outlet near the projector..
Good luck!

that's what i was talking about. there is no other nearby outlet, so i'd have to rerun the electrical wires to a new outlet near the ground for the UPS to plug into. it's too bad i couldn't just buy the 'input' wall plate, since i already have the 'normal' wallplate and the 'patch cable' is really just an extension cord.

here's where being canadian sucks, i'm looking at close to 100bux to get that product to my door. that's an awful lot for a backwards plug wall plate and an extension cord...

the whole thing makes me wonder though, if i could just run the solid core wires from the back of the wall plate in the ceiling to a normal 3prong plug and plug it into the UPS. far as i can tell, that would still pass code as i'm not running an extension cord through the wall, i'm running the solid core wire. and all i would need to do that is a cheap open cable plate: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042509&p_id=3994&seq=1&format=2

i still need to move or find an outlet for the UPS to get power, but it's a WAY cheaper, and seemingly just as legal, way to get power from the UPS to the projector

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