Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 103 - AVS Forum
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post #3061 of 3924 Old 05-02-2014, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by danielrg View Post

Okay - I tried to read the thread and gave up (I might get through it all later:)). I tried to search the thread and gave up. So I'll ask my question:

I'm pretty much sold on the 5030UB. I've auditioned a Sony, JVC, and Panny, and it just seems to work for me budgetwise, featurewise, pricewise. My question is about screen pairing.

Should I choose my screen gain based on 3-D mode, or 2-D mode? I will probably watch 2-D 98% of the time, but I want to dabble in 3-D and see if it's for me.

Can I just change to 3D dynamic mode from 2D Cinema and will they be about the same brightness?

Here's the details on the room:

-Room is light controlled
-Projector will be about 14-16 ft from the screen
-Screen size is 16:9 110" diagonal, non AT
-Seats at 9ft and 14ft away

I want the picture to be ideal in 2D Cinema mode. I can use a brighter mode for 3-D, but if 2D is a little brighter to make 3D work better, that's okay.

I'm guessing at this point it's just "pick the gain", right? What does everyone recommend for this situation? Thanks!

For a 110" screen even with a gain of 1.0 the 5030 will be bright enough for most viewers in 3D. My 5020 puts out just over 800 lumens calibrated in best 2D mode with the zoom near max. value (i.e., shortest throw) and in normal lamp mode. 800 lumens from the projector used with a 110", gain=1.0 screen will provide about 22 Foot Lamberts, which is somewhat higher than 14 to 18 ftL that some people consider ideal for movie viewing in a totally light controlled home theater. Of course you can always us the eco lamp mode to reduce the brightness if you consider it too bright. For 3D viewing and even when using the 3D dynamic mode, the 5030 will appear less bright than the 2D mode, given the light losses inherent with an active 3D system. However, it certainly will still be brighter than what you see for 3D presentations in many/most commercial movie theaters. Of course, you could go for a quality screen using a somewhat higher gain fabric, such at the excellent 1.3 gain Stewart StudioTek 130 material, if you want a brighter 3D image while keeping excellent 2D performance.
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post #3062 of 3924 Old 05-05-2014, 01:28 PM
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I posted this in the Digital High End Projectors thread, but I really intended it to go here, so sorry for the double post:

I've had this pj (5030UB) since it first came out, and have really been impressed with the picture quality out of the box. My last projector was a Panasonic AE3000U, and there's really a huge difference.

As I live in an area where I really don't have access to professional calibration, I've always done it myself, to the best of my limited abilities, using Avia, Digital Essentials, etc.

Since this is my first 3D projector, I'm a bit unsure how to go about this now. I've seen people mention Disney WoW, and I'm thinking about trying that, however I have a few questions.

1. I assume I would need to do calibration for each of the 2D color modes (e.g. THX, Natural, etc.), correct?
2. I would also have to do calibrations for each in 3D mode too, right?
3. Can you do the 3D calibration with the Disney disc? If so, how?

I only use the projector for Blu Ray, and streaming videos via Netflix, Amazon, DLNA, etc. It's connected directly to my Blu Ray player via a RedMere High Speed cable.

Equipment used:
Epson 5030UB
Samsung BD-F7500 Blu Ray Player
Stewart Filmscreen Luxus Deluxe Screenwall; 123' (purchased from avs)

Any suggestions/advice on doing the calibrations would be greatly appreciated, including alternatives to the Disney disc. I've read through a lot of the forum posts in this thread to catch up, and if anyone has any other suggestions on settings I'd be grateful.

Thanks for your help

Tom
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post #3063 of 3924 Old 05-05-2014, 01:58 PM
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TomT, there's a number of ways you can go about this yourself. There's different audio/video test discs you can purchase, such as VideoEssentials HD (among others) that include the necessary test images to help you calibrate, as well as a blue filter that helps you set tint and color accurately. There's also the AVS HD 709 disc available in a thread in the calibration forum that is free.

If you want to get more precise you can also buy a colorimeter like the i1DisplayPro or Spyder4Pro. They cost $200+, you can get older models off e-bay too, and are really meant to be used on PC monitors, but with software found in the calibration forum you can use them and dial in your projector too. They're not perfect, I find that they are not always consistent run to run, but you can kind of average your results and get a real good image.

Without buying the high-end stuff that ISF guys use and getting that training you may not get 100% there, but with a little effort you can get damn close on your own, maybe 90%-95% of the way there (it's really hard to quantify that of course). I use an i1DisplayPro along with the free HCFR software and AVS HD 709 disc and am very happy with my results. A pro would most likely get better results, but that falls in to the area of diminishing returns in my opinion. And now I can calibrate and re-calibrate to my heart's content, dial in different sources and inputs, tweak it as equipment changes, etc., all for no additional charge. I use the i1 on my TV, desktop monitors, work monitors and laptop, so I get a lot out of that. I love using it with my multi-monitor desktops as it gives me consistent results across displays. It's also great to dial in PC displays if you do any photo editing/processing.
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post #3064 of 3924 Old 05-05-2014, 02:02 PM
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Thanks Keith, I appreciate the feedback. Do you have any opinion/experience with the Disney disc? I don't think I'll do much more than use a calibration disc at this point....
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post #3065 of 3924 Old 05-05-2014, 02:11 PM
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Nope, I haven't used that one. Also, I haven't done anything with 3D yet.
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post #3066 of 3924 Old 05-05-2014, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TomT View Post

Thanks Keith, I appreciate the feedback. Do you have any opinion/experience with the Disney disc? I don't think I'll do much more than use a calibration disc at this point....

I have it. I'm really happy with settings after adjustments made. Cinema turned out the best for me. Was worth the purchase. Can't use it for 3d but scroll back some where I talked about my 3d settings.
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post #3067 of 3924 Old 05-06-2014, 10:41 AM
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SmithySmythe, thanks for the reply - can't seem to find your comments re your 3D settings. You said to scroll up, but sorry, couldn't find anything.

Thanks
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post #3068 of 3924 Old 05-06-2014, 12:55 PM
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I'm now thinking about using the Spears & Munsil disc, as it appears it will also do the 3D calibration. Anyone care to comment on their experience with this?
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post #3069 of 3924 Old 05-06-2014, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TomT View Post

SmithySmythe, thanks for the reply - can't seem to find your comments re your 3D settings. You said to scroll up, but sorry, couldn't find anything.

Thanks

Post #3014, 3056, 3058.
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post #3070 of 3924 Old 05-06-2014, 03:34 PM
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Got it, thanks
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post #3071 of 3924 Old 05-07-2014, 12:46 AM
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Hello everyone, so I have just now joined AVSforum. I firstly wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread as it convinced me to buy this home-cinema projector (the Epson 5030 of course) :). After nearly two months of research (from both online and in-store demos) I decided to get it. After going through some obstacles (stuck pixel, bad long-HDMI cable, bad projector mount, etc.) it seems I have everything needed to finish the set-up (at least for the summer). Anyways, all research done, and posted, in this thread greatly helped me to decide upon buying this particular projector (this is the place I used to most for my research). I have just seen my first full-length film using the projector literally ~10min ago. I watched Gravity (in 3D of course) and it looks absolutely gorgeous. This projector definitely makes the money and hassle I invested in it worth it. The picture looks absolutely great and I can't wait to use it extensively over the summer :p. Hopefully nothing goes wrong with it in the near future. Again thanks everyone! 

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post #3072 of 3924 Old 05-07-2014, 08:53 AM
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I was moving the Epson PJ around (while it was switched on) to line it up with the screen. The cabinet stand went over a floor tile edge (the grout) and jolted the PJ (which its sitting on) a little bit. The projector made a small sound, a bit like the iris sound.

Besides risk of damaging the lamp, could I have done anything else to the PJ?
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post #3073 of 3924 Old 05-07-2014, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ashdot1111 View Post

I was moving the Epson PJ around (while it was switched on) to line it up with the screen. The cabinet stand went over a floor tile edge (the grout) and jolted the PJ (which its sitting on) a little bit. The projector made a small sound, a bit like the iris sound.

Besides risk of damaging the lamp, could I have done anything else to the PJ?


Are there any symptoms or signs of damage to anything?

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post #3074 of 3924 Old 05-07-2014, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TomT View Post

I'm now thinking about using the Spears & Munsil disc, as it appears it will also do the 3D calibration. Anyone care to comment on their experience with this?


Very good disc. It won't get you all the way that Calman and a decent colorimeter will, but it will get you close. I also have Digital Video Essentials - they are both useful tools, different to each other rather than one being better than the other. I suspect you would be happy with either.  If I had to choose just one, I'd go for the S&M.

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post #3075 of 3924 Old 05-08-2014, 05:42 AM
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Are there any symptoms or signs of damage to anything?

Nope *touchwood*.

Just the noise had me a little worried, that's all.
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post #3076 of 3924 Old 05-08-2014, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post


Are there any symptoms or signs of damage to anything?

Nope *touchwood*.

Just the noise had me a little worried, that's all.

 

In that case, I think you will be OK.  I believe that the only damage you can do if you bump the PJ while it is on is to the filament in the lamp.

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post #3077 of 3924 Old 05-08-2014, 07:45 AM
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I recently purchased the epson hc5030. The pj makes constant rumbling noises, is this normal? Thanks for any reply.
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post #3078 of 3924 Old 05-08-2014, 08:59 AM
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I recently purchased the epson hc5030. The pj makes constant rumbling noises, is this normal? Thanks for any reply.

You should hear the fan and the auto-iris stuff. But nothing I'd describe as a "rumble."
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post #3079 of 3924 Old 05-08-2014, 12:20 PM
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You should hear the fan and the auto-iris stuff. But nothing I'd describe as a "rumble."

Hey thanks for answering my question. I am gonna monitor it for a few days and make sure thats all it is.
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post #3080 of 3924 Old 05-08-2014, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rd7723 View Post

I recently purchased the epson hc5030. The pj makes constant rumbling noises, is this normal? Thanks for any reply.

Is it ceiling mounted or on a shelf? If on a shelf it might be vibrating the shelf, and isolation feet could help.
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post #3081 of 3924 Old 05-08-2014, 12:57 PM
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I recently purchased the epson hc5030. The pj makes constant rumbling noises, is this normal? Thanks for any reply.

 Turn off the auto iris and see if it goes away.

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post #3082 of 3924 Old 05-09-2014, 10:50 AM
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Gamma Control?

Been doing calibrations on the different modes with an I1 Display Pro and HCFR. Quick and easy to get the grayscale to a DeltaE under 3, but adjusting the gamma is harder. Been experimenting with the custom gamma control, but it does not behave in a sane way to me, perhaps I am not sane smile.gif. There are nine adjustment point for gamma, but they do not appear to correspond to 10% luminance steps. Anybody have any technical details on exactly what the different points correspond to or any gamma tips? Thanks.
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post #3083 of 3924 Old 05-09-2014, 12:47 PM
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 Turn off the auto iris and see if it goes away.

hey thanks for all of the replies. it is shelf mounted.
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post #3084 of 3924 Old 05-10-2014, 02:27 PM
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Has anyone else run into the problem of a distorted picture using the 5030? I have a 119" screen and the left side of the test pattern is taller then the right side by about an inch. I got another unit and this did not help. I measured the screen corners to projector lens to make sure everything is square (about 1/2 inch difference between left and right side) I have checked the screen and it is the proper dimensions. The unit is ceiling mounted and within easy reach of the lens shift controls.
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post #3085 of 3924 Old 05-10-2014, 05:20 PM
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Did you try rotating the projector a bit to the right?
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post #3086 of 3924 Old 05-11-2014, 02:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Has anyone else run into the problem of a distorted picture using the 5030? I have a 119" screen and the left side of the test pattern is taller then the right side by about an inch. I got another unit and this did not help. I measured the screen corners to projector lens to make sure everything is square (about 1/2 inch difference between left and right side) I have checked the screen and it is the proper dimensions. The unit is ceiling mounted and within easy reach of the lens shift controls.

 

You’re not lined up properly in one of the three planes (yaw, pitch and roll). All three have to be right to get the geometry spot on and all three are interdependent on each other, so there is a certain amount of back-and-forth shuffling to do as changing one invariably puts the other out. It sounds as if you have the yaw adjustment quite a bit out.

 

What I mean by the three planes of adjustment (yaw, pitch, roll) is illustrated in the attached graphic, for the benefit of anyone unfamiliar with the terms.

 

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post #3087 of 3924 Old 05-11-2014, 05:43 AM
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Has anyone else run into the problem of a distorted picture using the 5030? I have a 119" screen and the left side of the test pattern is taller then the right side by about an inch. I got another unit and this did not help. I measured the screen corners to projector lens to make sure everything is square (about 1/2 inch difference between left and right side) I have checked the screen and it is the proper dimensions. The unit is ceiling mounted and within easy reach of the lens shift controls.

I just got my 5030 hung last night (using the Peerless PRGUNV) and have similar problem. I have 8ft ceiling and projector is approx. 14ft from screen which is 106" Screen Innovations Sensation fixed. What I'm seeing is top and left side are straight, the bottom of the picture angles down about 1.5 inches at the lower right corner and the right side of the picture angles to the left by maybe 1.25" as you go up. I've tried the pitch and roll adjustments on the mount along with the lens shift controls and cannot get the picture true. The top of the screen material is 14.5" from ceiling and the center of the lens is 9" down from ceiling (8ft ceiling with no down rod). I'm not sure of the best way to adjust yaw other than loosening the mounting lag bolts and turning the projector/mount....the projector seems square to the screen.

My issue is very similar to this: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1519203/problem-with-the-projection-of-the-image-is-not-rectangular

Thanks for any help or suggestions.
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post #3088 of 3924 Old 05-11-2014, 07:14 AM
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Suggestion for "can't get the image straight no matter how I move the PJ - roll, pitch, and yaw" issues: Move the screen. It is possible that the PJ is defective and does not throw a perfect rectangle image, but 99% of the time this is not the case. It is almost always that the screen is not mounted level and plumb in three dimensions. Never seen a house yet that had straight/plumb walls, you may need to shim behind up to 3 of the screen corners to get the screen at a perfect 90% angle to the PJ. If you have one corner where the image appears "too small" but the rest of the image is OK, then that corner is too close to the PJ, and the other three corners need to be brought out toward the PJ. One corner where the image is too large, that corner is too far away from the PJ.
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post #3089 of 3924 Old 05-11-2014, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNKen View Post

Has anyone else run into the problem of a distorted picture using the 5030? I have a 119" screen and the left side of the test pattern is taller then the right side by about an inch. I got another unit and this did not help. I measured the screen corners to projector lens to make sure everything is square (about 1/2 inch difference between left and right side) I have checked the screen and it is the proper dimensions. The unit is ceiling mounted and within easy reach of the lens shift controls.

I just got my 5030 hung last night (using the Peerless PRGUNV) and have similar problem. I have 8ft ceiling and projector is approx. 14ft from screen which is 106" Screen Innovations Sensation fixed. What I'm seeing is top and left side are straight, the bottom of the picture angles down about 1.5 inches at the lower right corner and the right side of the picture angles to the left by maybe 1.25" as you go up. I've tried the pitch and roll adjustments on the mount along with the lens shift controls and cannot get the picture true. The top of the screen material is 14.5" from ceiling and the center of the lens is 9" down from ceiling (8ft ceiling with no down rod). I'm not sure of the best way to adjust yaw other than loosening the mounting lag bolts and turning the projector/mount....the projector seems square to the screen.

My issue is very similar to this: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1519203/problem-with-the-projection-of-the-image-is-not-rectangular

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

The PJ isn’t square to the screen. It's the yaw you need to adjust along with the other adjustments - they are all interdependent and all three have to be right. It takes a little fiddling.  If you don't use an extension tube, then the only way to correct for yaw is to physically swivel the PJ by loosening the mountain bolts. I never found this to be a very good solution as the PJ invariably moves when you retighten the bolts, so it is worth considering installing a 3 inch extension tube onto the Peerless (any standard threaded tube will fit - mine is a Chief). You will then find it easy to swivel the PJ on the tube, locking the tube in place with a screw in the hole in the tube once you have got it all set. Then it will never move again.

 

The Peerless mount has fabulous pitch and roll adjustments but these won’t help you with this problem. Once you have adjusted the yaw, you may find the pitch and roll are out by a little, so tweak those and then make any final adjustments to the yaw before you tighten anything up too much.  When you tighten the screw into the tube, just tighten it enough to nip the thread - don't force it or you will damage the thread.

 

I usually find it is best to get the geometry right before using horizontal shift to the move the squared-up image into the right place for final viewing, as the adjustments will shift the image right or left in all likelihood.

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post #3090 of 3924 Old 05-11-2014, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by usualsuspects View Post

Suggestion for "can't get the image straight no matter how I move the PJ - roll, pitch, and yaw" issues: Move the screen. It is possible that the PJ is defective and does not throw a perfect rectangle image, but 99% of the time this is not the case. It is almost always that the screen is not mounted level and plumb in three dimensions. Never seen a house yet that had straight/plumb walls, you may need to shim behind up to 3 of the screen corners to get the screen at a perfect 90% angle to the PJ. If you have one corner where the image appears "too small" but the rest of the image is OK, then that corner is too close to the PJ, and the other three corners need to be brought out toward the PJ. One corner where the image is too large, that corner is too far away from the PJ.


Yes good point - that  can be the case. But when the image is out by 1.5 inches, it is unlikely to be the wall that is out!

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