Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 111 - AVS Forum
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post #3301 of 3562 Old 06-13-2014, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by SolRebel View Post
Hi, I have an issue with the projector and I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas what might be going on.

The projector will stop throwing am image for a few seconds (screen goes black), then the image will come back on, then off, over and over etc. This has happened twice now in the last couple weeks.

Issue could also be with my Sony receiver that it is passing through.

Any thoughts here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Sounds like a HDMI issue. Could be either one of the cables (or connectors) or some issue with the Sony AVR that you use for switching of the HDMI sources. Does this happen with all HD sources or only one? Have you made any changes to your system recently, such as a firmware update to the AVR, the projector or your HD source device?

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post #3302 of 3562 Old 06-13-2014, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolRebel View Post
Hi, I have an issue with the projector and I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas what might be going on.

The projector will stop throwing am image for a few seconds (screen goes black), then the image will come back on, then off, over and over etc. This has happened twice now in the last couple weeks.

Issue could also be with my Sony receiver that it is passing through.

Any thoughts here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Sol, I had the following problem with my 6030, the screen would just go black in the middle of playing a Blu-ray , but the audio would continue uniterrupted-at times the picture would come back on, at other times it would not and the power off button on the rempte and the projector would not respond, I had to physically unplug the pj. I did have it going through my Yamaha AVR with the HDMI link activated, but I tried it directly from the dvd player to pj and would get the same thing-once, when this happened, I swapped the HDMI for a component cable and the picture came back on (previously I had swapped out HDMI cables to make sure it wasn't the cable-I also tried both HDMI inputs on the pj, and the same thing happened). Long story-short, it appears to have been something with the HDMI input board-got a replacement and have not had this problem, but I do not have HDMI link set up any longer, but am running the cables through my Yamaha AVR. Once you have swapped HDMI cables, tried both inputs on the pj and shut-off the HDMI links, and the problem persists, I would contact Epson. Just my 2 cents.
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post #3303 of 3562 Old 06-13-2014, 05:38 PM
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Hi...I had my 5030ub calibrated today by a professional...the tech calibrated both night time mode and day time mode using the Cinema setting as a base. I watch 50 percent movies 50 percent hockey. Usually I watch movies in Cinema mode and hockey in living room mode...the calibrated movie mode looks brilliant but the calibrated hockey mode using cinema as a base looks dull...if the tech would have used living room mode as a base for hockey, would he have ended up with the same result (ie. a dim picture for hockey) or would it overall be brighter using a calibrated living room mode? I mentioned this approach to him but he felt he would have ended up with the same result...just looking for others opinions...thanks
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post #3304 of 3562 Old 06-14-2014, 05:36 AM
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For day time viewing you have to start from a mode that doesn't have the internal filter in the light path. The filter improves colour accuracy but reduces brightness. Calibrated living room mode should be much brighter than cinema mode.
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post #3305 of 3562 Old 06-14-2014, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
For day time viewing you have to start from a mode that doesn't have the internal filter in the light path. The filter improves colour accuracy but reduces brightness.
Gonna quibble a little on this one. NONE of the modes are a "correct" REC709 color gamut. Filter in or out does not matter in this regard, you will never see a correct HD gamut from any mode on this PJ. You can get it better than it is from the factory by using the CMS, but even that cannot completely correct the gamut issues as far as I have seen in any mode with my equipment (I1 display pro3 and HCFR). Filter out is not "worse" in my opinion, just different in how off the gamut is from REC709. Cinema and other "filter in" modes have a wider gamut in all dimensions (in most cases) than REC709 and may appear pleasing to some, but the colors are overcooked (more saturation than is correct).
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post #3306 of 3562 Old 06-14-2014, 05:42 PM
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I'm not saying how accurate any of the default modes are in absolute terms, but the internal "cinema filter" is intended to improve colour accuracy, and any filter is bound to reduce brightness. Hence if you want a bright picture for daytime viewing (which is what the OP was looking for) you should start from a mode that doesn't put the filter in the light path, even though you'll give up some colour accuracy.
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post #3307 of 3562 Old 06-15-2014, 04:22 AM
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Perhaps I was not clear in my post, so I will state it definitively: Filter In does not have more accurate color. What it is intended to do, or stated by Epson is of no interest to me. What really happens is.
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post #3308 of 3562 Old 06-15-2014, 04:31 AM
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Thanks folks...the calibration guy is supposed to come back in a couple weeks with the spectrometer so I will mention to calibrate hockey starting with the living room mode. I also posted the same question in the calibration thread and a couple ISF calibrators respondedand said calibrate hockey starting with cinema mode as it will require less adjustment. So I have to say I'm a little confused but all I know is that starting with the filter in cinema mode does reduce brightness for hockey significantly.
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post #3309 of 3562 Old 06-15-2014, 06:19 AM
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It sounds like your primary goal for the "hockey" mode is brightess, so don't start from a mode that uses the filter. Whether the filter improves colour accuracy or not, it definitely must reduce brightness.

And even Dynamic is watchable for sports with a few tweaks. Give that a try as well. Projector Central said this about Dynamic in their review:

"On the high end of the scale is Dynamic, which on our projector measured 2230 lumens with the lens at its widest angle setting. Before adjustments, Dynamic has a greenish cast, but is useful whenever maximum light output is needed. On our projector, we were able to reduce the green tint to a tolerable level using the RGB Gain/Bias controls for the cost of about 200 lumens, but the end result is a much more balanced picture that is useful in a greater number of situations."

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post #3310 of 3562 Old 06-15-2014, 06:52 AM
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Excellent. Thanks. I will mention all this to my calibration guy when he returns in a couple weeks.
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post #3311 of 3562 Old 06-15-2014, 08:21 PM
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I finally got my projector hooked up and the screen mounted today. I have a 120" screen and am set about 13.5' back with the projector ceiling mounted with a Peerless mount about a foot above the screen. Right away I noticed a couple of issues.

First off is some discolored blobs. On the far right edge near the bottom on very dark, almost black images, I see a green blob. Another spot, also in the lower right hand quadrant is darker depending on the color of the image. With a blue color bar I noticed dark blue in that area, on a fine resolution cross hatch I can just see that area is darker. Both of these areas are a few inches in diameter. Is the dust that can be removed easily, or is it a defect?

The other issue is getting it to fill the screen right. If I get the upper left dialed in right, the other corners will all be off the screen. I've been playing around with the lens shift and the two adjustments on the peerless mount but haven't had any luck. I find the shift knobs to be sensitive, and am also annoyed with how much the projector moves as I'm trying to dial it in. Motorized controls would be nice for this. What's the baseline I should start from? Is it best to have the projector perfectly level? Or should I tilt it down some and use more lens shift? I'm just not sure how I should start with it.

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post #3312 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 04:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post
I finally got my projector hooked up and the screen mounted today. I have a 120" screen and am set about 13.5' back with the projector ceiling mounted with a Peerless mount about a foot above the screen. Right away I noticed a couple of issues.

The other issue is getting it to fill the screen right. If I get the upper left dialed in right, the other corners will all be off the screen. I've been playing around with the lens shift and the two adjustments on the peerless mount but haven't had any luck. I find the shift knobs to be sensitive, and am also annoyed with how much the projector moves as I'm trying to dial it in. Motorized controls would be nice for this. What's the baseline I should start from? Is it best to have the projector perfectly level? Or should I tilt it down some and use more lens shift? I'm just not sure how I should start with it.
You need to remember that the PJ can move in three planes - yaw, pitch and roll - and all three are interdependent to some effect. Lens shift won't fix screen geometry issues which is what you are describing but will simply move the entire image to the left or right or up and down.

What I do is get the image geometry right first and then use shift to move the image into the final position. You may find that when you do this you need to make small adjustments in all three planes to get it spot on. It is a time-consuming and fiddly business but the good news is you only need to do it once.

For clarification of what I mean by roll, pitch and yaw as the three planes of adjustment, see this diagram:



The best way to adjust yaw is if you use a short column/pole from the ceiling to the PJ - you can then just rotate the pole via its thread. Much easier than moving the ceiling mounting plate, which IME invariably moves a small amount as you tighten it up.

(Sorry the image is so freakin' huge - vBulletin doesn't allow for image sizing AFAICT).


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Last edited by kbarnes701; 06-16-2014 at 04:56 AM.
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post #3313 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post
I finally got my projector hooked up and the screen mounted today. I have a 120" screen and am set about 13.5' back with the projector ceiling mounted with a Peerless mount about a foot above the screen. Right away I noticed a couple of issues.

First off is some discolored blobs. On the far right edge near the bottom on very dark, almost black images, I see a green blob. Another spot, also in the lower right hand quadrant is darker depending on the color of the image. With a blue color bar I noticed dark blue in that area, on a fine resolution cross hatch I can just see that area is darker. Both of these areas are a few inches in diameter. Is the dust that can be removed easily, or is it a defect?

The other issue is getting it to fill the screen right. If I get the upper left dialed in right, the other corners will all be off the screen. I've been playing around with the lens shift and the two adjustments on the peerless mount but haven't had any luck. I find the shift knobs to be sensitive, and am also annoyed with how much the projector moves as I'm trying to dial it in. Motorized controls would be nice for this. What's the baseline I should start from? Is it best to have the projector perfectly level? Or should I tilt it down some and use more lens shift? I'm just not sure how I should start with it.


You may want to check out the blog I did last year that covered mounting and aligning the projector.


Link - http://www.projectorreviews.com/technical_blog/setting-up-a-home-theater-part-2/

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Last edited by Ron Jones; 06-16-2014 at 06:27 AM.
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post #3314 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post

You may want to check out the blog I did last year that covered mounting and aligning the projector.

Link - http://www.projectorreviews.com/technical_blog/setting-up-a-home-theater-part-2/

Great articles Ron! I have added both parts to the 3rd post on P1 of the thread, which has various useful links.


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post #3315 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 06:56 AM
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Adjusting yaw is going to be very tricky I fear because I got the pipe in both ends really tight. Maybe I should take down the projector and undo the pipe by a half circle on the top and bottom, if you get what I'm saying. Then I'll have some play for yaw.

So here's my question about pitch. If I set the projector level, and don't apply any shift, it shoots real high. I can't really adjust the yaw or roll much at that point because I won't have much reference. Should I actually point the projector down at an angle? Won't that require keystone adjustment? I was thinking using the vertical lens shift would be preferable there.

I'm also going to fiddle with the screen some. It seems pretty level and square, but it could be off some, obviously the walls aren't perfect. I can definitely pad the bottom two corners some to shift them away from the wall.

Ron, I'll go over that blog post. It looks pretty detailed.

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post #3316 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post
Adjusting yaw is going to be very tricky I fear because I got the pipe in both ends really tight. Maybe I should take down the projector and undo the pipe by a half circle on the top and bottom, if you get what I'm saying. Then I'll have some play for yaw.

So here's my question about pitch. If I set the projector level, and don't apply any shift, it shoots real high. I can't really adjust the yaw or roll much at that point because I won't have much reference. Should I actually point the projector down at an angle? Won't that require keystone adjustment? I was thinking using the vertical lens shift would be preferable there.

I'm also going to fiddle with the screen some. It seems pretty level and square, but it could be off some, obviously the walls aren't perfect. I can definitely pad the bottom two corners some to shift them away from the wall.

Ron, I'll go over that blog post. It looks pretty detailed.
I would dismount the PJ and apply some light grease to the threads on the pole, then remount the PJ but don't tighten up the pole so much - leave some wriggle room. My Peerless mount has a threaded hole in it for a lock-screw which you use to tighten down the pole once it has been adjusted - just lightly so you don't damage the thread. You only need to have adjustability on one end of the pole of course. It's by far the easiest and most accurate way to adjust yaw IMO.

Use shift not keystone. Never use keystone if it can be avoided as it will degrade the image substantially. Do not point the PJ down - get it level in all planes and then use horizontal and vertical shift to centre the image on the screen.

It is important to get the screen level as you say. You may need to use shims if the wall isn’t perfectly true. Don't obsess over getting the geometry 'perfect' if it is next to impossible - small misalignments won't show up when you switch from the test pattern to real content. Zoom the image slightly onto the screen borders (assuming they are non-reflective velvet or similar) and very small misalignments will disappear. HST, you should be able to get near perfect if you use pitch, roll and yaw together.

Ron's two part guide is an excellent read and contains a lot of useful info.


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post #3317 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 08:53 AM
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Well fortunately it's not too hard to get it on and off that peerless mount. I'll work on that tonight if I have time. Of course I still don't have a processor yet, so I can't use the home theater anyways, so I got time to fiddle with the projector.

What about the blobs I'm seeing in a couple of places? Is that going to be on the lens, or is that elsewhere?

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post #3318 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post
Well fortunately it's not too hard to get it on and off that peerless mount. I'll work on that tonight if I have time. Of course I still don't have a processor yet, so I can't use the home theater anyways, so I got time to fiddle with the projector.

What about the blobs I'm seeing in a couple of places? Is that going to be on the lens, or is that elsewhere?
IDK about the blobs. I have not seen anything like that here. It may be a fault but hopefully someone will chime in.


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post #3319 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post
What about the blobs I'm seeing in a couple of places? Is that going to be on the lens, or is that elsewhere?
I've had a blob earlier and Epson replaced my unit. Haven't had any issues after that.
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post #3320 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post
What about the blobs I'm seeing in a couple of places? Is that going to be on the lens, or is that elsewhere?
I've had a blob earlier and Epson replaced my unit. Haven't had any issues after that.
I thought I had read something like that before. I did some searching in the thread but couldn't find anything. I'll look around for my manual and find the warranty info and give them a call.

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post #3321 of 3562 Old 06-16-2014, 07:07 PM
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Well I'm getting a replacement. I actually saw three distinct issues when I had it on and pressed the blank button on the remote. First was a greenish blob in the lower right hand corner, right on the edge of the screen. This was pretty big, about the size of my hand. Second was a blue blob in the lower right quadrant. A bit smaller than the green one, and it was less apparent. The other thing I noticed was a dim circle, centered in the lower half of the screen but perhaps that is just an artifact of LCDs or the like because it's a perfect circle.

So I'm getting a replacement, should be here later this week. I guess I'll tackle the geometry issues then.

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post #3322 of 3562 Old 06-17-2014, 07:09 AM
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Frame Interprolation Setting

for movie watching, is the frame interprolation of any benefit (or detriment)?
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post #3323 of 3562 Old 06-17-2014, 07:24 AM
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for movie watching, is the frame interprolation of any benefit (or detriment)?
I have my FI set to low. Anything higher gets weird for movies. When watching sports (like boxing), I set it to high to tame the motion blur and it works beautifully.
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post #3324 of 3562 Old 06-17-2014, 06:03 PM
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What does "setup level" mean - and should I care about it? It's in the Advanced settings menu. The manual says:

Setup Level: adjusts the level at which dark areas of the image
are rendered black; leave this setting at 0% for most video
equipment; check your video equipment specifications to verify the correct setting

I have this funny feeling that other equipment specifications may or may not use the term "setup level" and I will never know if I've set it up wrong. Any pointers here on what this really means?

I tried a search but I can't figure out how to make searches useful in vBulletin yet. It's a tough thing to transition to this new forum software.
Setup level is just a fancy name for the video black level. Digital devices today use one of two settings, 0-255 for PC graphics and 16-235 for video applications, which allows headroom for blacker than black and whiter than white video material.
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post #3325 of 3562 Old 06-19-2014, 01:36 PM
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Setup level is just a fancy name for the video black level. Digital devices today use one of two settings, 0-255 for PC graphics and 16-235 for video applications, which allows headroom for blacker than black and whiter than white video material.
Great, thanks for the clear information. What could happen to the picture if you select the wrong setting? Will blacks/whites crush, or will you see stuff where it should just be black/white, like noise?

Electrical engineer by education. Currently a system engineer. I like home automation, theaters, and blinking lights.
Someday it'll be more of an actual hobby - if my employer would ever let me go home!

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post #3326 of 3562 Old 06-19-2014, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by danielrg View Post
Great, thanks for the clear information. What could happen to the picture if you select the wrong setting? Will blacks/whites crush, or will you see stuff where it should just be black/white, like noise?
You will see black and white crush. Easiest way to make sure you have the right setting is to use a calibration disc or device with black and white PLUGE patterns.
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post #3327 of 3562 Old 06-19-2014, 09:05 PM
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I got my new projector today, this one looks great, no dust blobs or other visual anomalies.

I've worked on the geometry a good bit tonight and have it pretty well dialed in. The lower left edge goes down by half a pixel or so, that's it. No other issues. I ended up having to move the screen to the left a half inch, my horizontal lens shift needed to be just off from center, but because of the way that knob works, with the center detent, I just couldn't make a minute enough adjustment. It'd always go to far, and then when I brought it back I couldn't get close enough without the knob hitting the detent again.

I've played around with some of the different settings, color, contrast, brightness, etc. looks pretty good out of the box. I'll let it run for a while before calibrating with an i1 and the AVS disc.

Unfortunately I don't get the full effect as I don't have my receiver in yet, so I have no sound. If only I'd made my decision earlier Monday to give up on Emotiva I would have gotten my receiver ordered in time to get it tomorrow. I'm getting my theater furniture tomorrow, and I got my new remote today. I just moved into a new house a couple weeks ago so I have a lot of work to do anyways.

Download my IR hex codes for the Denon AVR-4810ci and other Denon receivers
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post #3328 of 3562 Old 06-20-2014, 04:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post
I got my new projector today, this one looks great, no dust blobs or other visual anomalies.

I've worked on the geometry a good bit tonight and have it pretty well dialed in. The lower left edge goes down by half a pixel or so, that's it. No other issues. I ended up having to move the screen to the left a half inch, my horizontal lens shift needed to be just off from center, but because of the way that knob works, with the center detent, I just couldn't make a minute enough adjustment. It'd always go to far, and then when I brought it back I couldn't get close enough without the knob hitting the detent again.

I've played around with some of the different settings, color, contrast, brightness, etc. looks pretty good out of the box. I'll let it run for a while before calibrating with an i1 and the AVS disc.

Unfortunately I don't get the full effect as I don't have my receiver in yet, so I have no sound. If only I'd made my decision earlier Monday to give up on Emotiva I would have gotten my receiver ordered in time to get it tomorrow. I'm getting my theater furniture tomorrow, and I got my new remote today. I just moved into a new a couple weeks ago so I have a lot of work to do anyways.
Glad things seem to be coming together for you. Good call to forget the XMC-1 IMO.


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post #3329 of 3562 Old 06-22-2014, 11:47 AM
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I would appreciate feedback from other owners on two issues with my 5030ub.

1) Watching World Cup Soccer with FI=on (any level) the ball occasionally "stutters" or "jerks" when kicked. Normally it is very smooth. Never happens when frame interpolation is off. Is this normal?

2) Panel convergence needs settings of 6 in many places. Again, is this normal?

Thanks a lot!
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post #3330 of 3562 Old 06-22-2014, 02:41 PM
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After 6 months and about 630 lamp hours my bulb has begun to flicker. Major disappointment.
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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