Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 159 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4741 of 4765 Old 02-22-2015, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejfriis View Post
A few days ago I received an email "Epson Rebate Submission" with nothing in the body of the message. I tried to reply but now I'm getting an automatically generated failure Delivery Status Notification. They also signed me up for Epson Store emails.

Did you guys get a blank email like that? What number are you calling to check on the rebate status? I just want to make sure they didn't try (and fail) to contact me because some paperwork or something wasn't in order.

The Epson Rebate Response Line # is 1-800-277-6187. The # is on the bottom of the rebate form. Probably have to wait 'til tomorrow to call.
That's the number I called to check on mine. Got my lamp a couple weeks ago.


Good luck!


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post #4742 of 4765 Old 02-23-2015, 01:40 PM
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Cool

Hi all

I have just joined the forum , I am a happy New owner of a 9200 which is
Hooked up to a darbee 5000 and resides I my total bat cave of a cinema room..converted garage.
seems the 9200 is more popular in the states..I'm from the UK

I am hugely impressed with mine the 2d is superb and the 3d is phenomenal I've gone a bit 3d crazy and my 7 year old son loves it to

I have a homemade acoustic screen 102 inches in 16.9 , with home built masking for 2.35.1 viewing

Hope to learn any tips and give the benefit of my limited experience
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post #4743 of 4765 Old 02-24-2015, 08:19 AM
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Hi, I am newbie to projectors and have question for experts. Just bought a 5030ub and going to buy a Seymour retractable screen with XD material. I will have the Epson mounted 17 feet on a back shelf and viewing distance be about 14 feet. A 120" diagonal 16:9 is largest screen I can fit and will roll down in front of my 70"tv in corner. My question is would it make much difference in brightness to get a 114" screen and move it 7 inches closer which would make the viewing angle same as 120". But it is slightly small screen and would be a bit closer which might make picture brighter? The projectorcentral calculator showed it would be 2 foot lamberts brighter. It sounds like Epson is a light cannon and probably not big difference? I just worry because Epson will be mounted little over half of telephoto range and I worry it will not be bright enough. It is not a dedicated theater room but I can control light. I wish I could mount Epson closer on ceiling but have to deal with WAF. Thanks! After seeing picture on a mocked up melamine board I can't believe I havn't got into the world of projectors before now! So freakin excited. On a side note, I also just bought a Sierra 2/170se system and a HSU Vtf-15H Mk 2 so you can tell I am a happy camper. I now have a bunch of Athena AS-F2's/AS-B1's for sale if anyone in Iowa/Mn is interested.
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post #4744 of 4765 Old 02-24-2015, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farscape105 View Post
Hi, I am newbie to projectors and have question for experts. Just bought a 5030ub and going to buy a Seymour retractable screen with XD material. I will have the Epson mounted 17 feet on a back shelf and viewing distance be about 14 feet. A 120" diagonal 16:9 is largest screen I can fit and will roll down in front of my 70"tv in corner. My question is would it make much difference in brightness to get a 114" screen and move it 7 inches closer which would make the viewing angle same as 120". But it is slightly small screen and would be a bit closer which might make picture brighter? The projectorcentral calculator showed it would be 2 foot lamberts brighter. It sounds like Epson is a light cannon and probably not big difference? I just worry because Epson will be mounted little over half of telephoto range and I worry it will not be bright enough. It is not a dedicated theater room but I can control light. I wish I could mount Epson closer on ceiling but have to deal with WAF. Thanks! After seeing picture on a mocked up melamine board I can't believe I havn't got into the world of projectors before now! So freakin excited. On a side note, I also just bought a Sierra 2/170se system and a HSU Vtf-15H Mk 2 so you can tell I am a happy camper. I now have a bunch of Athena AS-F2's/AS-B1's for sale if anyone in Iowa/Mn is interested.
You are only a foot away from ideal with a 120" screen. I don't think inches will make a noticeable difference anyway. The Epson is very bright and I think you will be pleasantly surprised. I have a 106" gray screen with .85 gain at 14 feet and I use eco mode. The living room setting is very bright and the THX and cinema modes are good for light controlled viewing.
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post #4745 of 4765 Old 02-24-2015, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farscape105 View Post
Hi, I am newbie to projectors and have question for experts. Just bought a 5030ub and going to buy a Seymour retractable screen with XD material. I will have the Epson mounted 17 feet on a back shelf and viewing distance be about 14 feet. A 120" diagonal 16:9 is largest screen I can fit and will roll down in front of my 70"tv in corner. My question is would it make much difference in brightness to get a 114" screen and move it 7 inches closer which would make the viewing angle same as 120". But it is slightly small screen and would be a bit closer which might make picture brighter? The projectorcentral calculator showed it would be 2 foot lamberts brighter. It sounds like Epson is a light cannon and probably not big difference? I just worry because Epson will be mounted little over half of telephoto range and I worry it will not be bright enough. It is not a dedicated theater room but I can control light. I wish I could mount Epson closer on ceiling but have to deal with WAF. Thanks! After seeing picture on a mocked up melamine board I can't believe I havn't got into the world of projectors before now! So freakin excited. On a side note, I also just bought a Sierra 2/170se system and a HSU Vtf-15H Mk 2 so you can tell I am a happy camper. I now have a bunch of Athena AS-F2's/AS-B1's for sale if anyone in Iowa/Mn is interested.
I would go with the 120" personally. Mine is ceiling mounted at 17 feet and I have a 118" screen and it works great. I sit about 15 feet from the screen. Good times!

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post #4746 of 4765 Old 02-26-2015, 01:15 PM
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Any soluion yet to the projector being very noisy in 3d when ceiling mounted? Really annouing me.
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post #4747 of 4765 Old 02-26-2015, 01:57 PM
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Hi to all 5030 owners here, would you recommend a Darbee or is the "Super Resolution" I believe its called good enough?
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post #4748 of 4765 Old 02-26-2015, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by nando820 View Post
Hi to all 5030 owners here, would you recommend a Darbee or is the "Super Resolution" I believe its called good enough?
You're going to get conflicting responses as tastes and setups vary. Here's my opinion:

I don't like Super Resolution and don't use it at all. For me the effect is very non film like and adds too much of a processed look. Instead I use the Darbee processing in my Oppo 103D - but only when the content is fairly clean. I like movies with grain but I don't like to use Darbee on them. On clean content I find the Darbee effect to be great, partly because it's rather subtle. Also, my eyes are about 8' from a 100" screen. I'm guessing I might be more inclined to use SR if I had a bigger screen.
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Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

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post #4749 of 4765 Old 02-26-2015, 02:48 PM
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I don't have a darbee and never have so I can't speak for the differences really. However I do like what they did with the super res personally. It all depends on the movie though like the above thread states. Typically I tend to use sr 2 or 3 on movies unless they have a lot of grain. Sports I crank the SR and FI up and it looks great. I have a 135 inch 16:9 screen in my setup. I was planning to get a darbee before ever having my pj but I think I'm personally going to not worry about it for now at least. I'm way happy with how my picture looks just using the built in SR!

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post #4750 of 4765 Old 02-26-2015, 04:37 PM
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I use SR on 3 for most content and I think it looks great. Some movies look good with 4. But generally I find 4 and 5 too grainy. I don't have a darbee so can't comment on that.
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post #4751 of 4765 Old 02-26-2015, 06:09 PM
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Again, only my personal preferences: on recent big budget movies and animation, I find SR 2 or 3 and Darbee 30 - 40% works pretty well, but for older grainier material (B&W films and color films from 50s and 60s), I tend to turn off SR, but sometimes keep Darbee at 30% or even off completely. I find there's a bit of trial and error involved with each title, particularly if you're setting up for a movie night.
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post #4752 of 4765 Old Yesterday, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nando820 View Post
Hi to all 5030 owners here, would you recommend a Darbee or is the "Super Resolution" I believe its called good enough?
I use Super Res at 3 and love it.

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post #4753 of 4765 Old Yesterday, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexanderDelarg View Post
I use Super Res at 3 and love it.

+1!
Same here, sometimes 4 when watching bluray. I tried a Darbee and FOR ME the tiny bit of improvement that I had to work at to notice wasn't worth the $$$ or hassle. Back it went.
JMHO


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post #4754 of 4765 Old Today, 01:40 AM
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I have been so pleased with the Epson 5030ube sample I received that I thought I would share my settings so others might also get further enjoyment from their projector as well. I might add that although I received an excellent 5030 sample the biggest surprise came when I added the Oppo 105D. I previously had the Oppo 95 for almost 3 years but the picture quality is really improved by adding the 105D. I had never seen the Darbee stand alone systems at work before but what I read was that many owners hand shake issues especially with the new JVC models. The integration with the Epson is seamless. There are no handshake issues of any kind. Even if you really like the Oppo 95, which is excellent, the video processing combination between the Darbee and VRS Clear View is much better with the Oppo105D. The ability to fine tweak and make extremely small adjustments is a real plus.
Projector Settings:
Make sure the projector is as well focused as possible with unit in factory default Super-Res.-0
These settings have worked well for me in my room:
Advance Sharpness- Thick/Thin line Enhancement-+2 Frame Interpolation-+1 Super Resolution- 0
Noise Reduction-+1 Auto Iris- Normal (High Speed works good too)
ISF calibration clearly makes a difference but this projector is fairly close. -85%
Oppo 105D settings:
Darbee Mode- Hi Def-17%
VRSClearView- Detail and Edge Enhancement-+5
Screen/Distances/Summary:
Carada 126 Brilliant White 1.78 Lens distance to screen- 14.8 Seating distance to screen-12.4
Results: Good Blue ray movies and live sports always hold my attention. I rarely fall into my fidgeting constantly adjusting mode when watching these sources. DIRECTV and Netflix is a totally different story. I can't seem to stop because the picture quality changes so much on different channels and well you know Netflix. These settings have given me a beautiful well balanced picture for these sources. It is so enjoyable now to just sit and enjoy the movies without the feeling that something doesn't look quite right. My family members always get irritated when I start adjusting the picture. They do not understand I'm just trying to get the very best picture I can. I'm sure many of you do the same thing and your family members don't understand either. Try these settings for DIRECTV and Netflix. I think you will be extremely happy.
Good Luck everyone

Note:
I forgot one important thing. I am using the Wireless connection. I first did not like it at all. Clumsy slow but after replacement receiver much better response time and no signal dropouts.The wired connection still looks a lot better then the Wireless one. So these adjustments are for the 5030UBE owners who use WIFI connection.

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post #4755 of 4765 Old Today, 05:30 AM
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I just purchased this projector and am having a terrible time calibrating it to fill my SI HD screen! I initially started out using mostly the lens shift instead of the controls I have on my peerless but it was giving me this strange angle at the bottom that I couldn't get rid of (the top was aligned but the bottom was drooping down in the lower right, needless to say it was annoying when watching something. I now have mostly used the Peerless to angle the whole projector down and then use the keystone to straighten it out, however now my picture is more of a BOX instead of 16:9 so when I try to fill the screen it crops the top and bottom on the felt of the SI. I am going crazy with this I have adjusted 5 ways from Sunday. Is it possible I have a bad unit?
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post #4756 of 4765 Old Today, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tf4 View Post
I just purchased this projector and am having a terrible time calibrating it to fill my SI HD screen! I initially started out using mostly the lens shift instead of the controls I have on my peerless but it was giving me this strange angle at the bottom that I couldn't get rid of (the top was aligned but the bottom was drooping down in the lower right, needless to say it was annoying when watching something. I now have mostly used the Peerless to angle the whole projector down and then use the keystone to straighten it out, however now my picture is more of a BOX instead of 16:9 so when I try to fill the screen it crops the top and bottom on the felt of the SI. I am going crazy with this I have adjusted 5 ways from Sunday. Is it possible I have a bad unit?
The problem is that you are working in three planes all at the same time, and adjusting any one affects the other. The one thing you definitely should avoid is using keystone because that significantly degrades the picture quality.

Assuming your PJ is more or less properly positioned - ie in more or the less the centre of the screen (left and right) and more or less at the top (up and down), then this is how I would tackle it:

First of all, center all the various 'controls' available to you - that is, the adjustments on the mount and the horizontal and vertical shift adjustments on the PJ. Ensure no keystone correction is being used in the PJ. Make sure that the screen itself is perfectly aligned and parallel to the wall it is mounted on and to the PJ. The screen must be properly horizontal and vertical - use a spirit level to check.

Focus the PJ and use a test pattern designed for lining up a PJ. If you don't have a suitable test pattern on disc, then the grid pattern in the Epson which is designed for lining up the RGB colors is good for this.

Project the pattern onto the screen. Don't worry if it is off to the left or right, or top or bottom at this stage (shift will deal with that later). Use the PJ's zoom to 'fill' the screen as much as you can.

Now, using the controls on your mount, line up the top edge so it is exactly right for the screen (even if it is a little high or low at this stage). Then look at the bottom edge - is it also lined up, or is it sloping off to one side or the other? If it is sloping, even though the top is right, then this means that the PJ is not parallel to the screen and you will need to rotate it in one direction or the other until both the top and bottom edges are right. Use the PJ control for YAW for this. (Refer to the diagram below).



You will now probably see that the left and right edges do not line up properly. Again, using the mount controls, adjust the PJ until the left edge lines up properly. If the right edge is now not lined up properly, this means that you will need to adjust the pitch and/or roll controls. If the image is trapezoid, you will see the effect of using the relevant PJ controls as you make adjustments. Once you have this right, you may need to go back and adjust the yaw again.

Once you have done all this, you should now have a picture that is 'square' to the screen but may be higher or lower or off to the left or right. Now is the time to use the PJ shift controls to bring the picture to the right place. The Epson has a huge range of shift adjustment so you will be sure to have more than enough for your needs.

It does take quite a lot of time to line up a PJ properly, especially if it is the first time you have done it. Having a good mount, with good micro-adjustment capabilities is a real boon at this stage of setup. Be patient, do one thing at a time, and you will get there. Good luck!
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post #4757 of 4765 Old Today, 07:12 AM
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Thanks for the great tips! I have it pretty much a standard rectangle as you see in the picture the screen is overlapping on the top and bottom. I don't think the lens shift will "squeeze" the picture though so I can stretch it out correct? I can simply move it up and down or if I zoom in more I lose more width.
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post #4758 of 4765 Old Today, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tf4 View Post
Thanks for the great tips! I have it pretty much a standard rectangle as you see in the picture the screen is overlapping on the top and bottom. I don't think the lens shift will "squeeze" the picture though so I can stretch it out correct? I can simply move it up and down or if I zoom in more I lose more width.
Lens shift just moves the entire image sideways, or up and down. It won't change the aspect ratio.

Are you sure your screen is the exact right 16:9 proportions there?

(You're not using Keystone to get it like that are you?)
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Originally Posted by tf4 View Post
Thanks for the great tips! I have it pretty much a standard rectangle as you see in the picture the screen is overlapping on the top and bottom. I don't think the lens shift will "squeeze" the picture though so I can stretch it out correct? I can simply move it up and down or if I zoom in more I lose more width.
Looks like you're screen is a little wider than a true 16:9. That's what the black frame is for. Looks like you'll have to zoom in a bit more to fill the width and you're going to have overlap top and bottom.
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post #4760 of 4765 Old Today, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by tf4 View Post
Thanks for the great tips! I have it pretty much a standard rectangle as you see in the picture the screen is overlapping on the top and bottom. I don't think the lens shift will "squeeze" the picture though so I can stretch it out correct? I can simply move it up and down or if I zoom in more I lose more width.
Yeah, it looks like your actual screen is more like 16:8.9 (so to speak) than a proper 16:9.


Is the screen new as well? If it is, perhaps you can return it and get an exchange.
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post #4761 of 4765 Old Today, 10:32 AM
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+1!
Same here, sometimes 4 when watching bluray. I tried a Darbee and FOR ME the tiny bit of improvement that I had to work at to notice wasn't worth the $$$ or hassle. Back it went.
JMHO


Ed
Thank you for all the responses, I guess Darbee is not really needed with the hires. Maybe an Oppo in the future will be nice
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post #4762 of 4765 Unread Today, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tf4 View Post
I just purchased this projector and am having a terrible time calibrating it to fill my SI HD screen! I initially started out using mostly the lens shift instead of the controls I have on my peerless but it was giving me this strange angle at the bottom that I couldn't get rid of (the top was aligned but the bottom was drooping down in the lower right, needless to say it was annoying when watching something. I now have mostly used the Peerless to angle the whole projector down and then use the keystone to straighten it out, however now my picture is more of a BOX instead of 16:9 so when I try to fill the screen it crops the top and bottom on the felt of the SI. I am going crazy with this I have adjusted 5 ways from Sunday. Is it possible I have a bad unit?
Kbarnes' response is excellent for anyone setting up for the first time. I was talking to a senior engineer at Dolby a couple of weeks ago who told me that lining up projector patterns in professional cinemas is a painstaking process too - and often they still don't get it completely right. It's an easier process in a small room, but even if you do end up with the minutest of distortions somewhere on the screen after rounds of tweaking, you will always be in good company.
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UMMM Looking into this you MAY be right. I went back to the Amazon location I purchased it from (http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Innovat...pr_product_top) and it says "up to 7" of horizontal adjustment" I don't remember any "adjustment" so I am wondering if it's larger I will go measure. Darnit!
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Need help guys. My 5030 is not powering up all the way. I haven't used it in a few weeks so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. There's only around 300-400 hours on the bulb so I'm pretty sure that's not it. When I power it on, it sounds normal for about 4-5 seconds, and then the fan gets really loud. The power light continues to blink blue and then it shuts the lens off. It's almost acting like it did when I was upgrading the firmware. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks

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Need help guys. My 5030 is not powering up all the way. I haven't used it in a few weeks so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. There's only around 300-400 hours on the bulb so I'm pretty sure that's not it. When I power it on, it sounds normal for about 4-5 seconds, and then the fan gets really loud. The power light continues to blink blue and then it shuts the lens off. It's almost acting like it did when I was upgrading the firmware. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks
Call 'em up cause it's dead. I had a very similar problem, and I know it's been reported here a few other times. They'll have to send you a replacement for it.
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