Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 160 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:12 PM
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Bulb Rebate update

Just an FYI for anyone expecting a bulb - according to rebate center they are on Back Order . I sent my rebate in beginning of Dec . already called once and they said rebate was processed and lamp would ship in a couple weeks . Well that was a month ago ! So called again now they say up to another month . At least it isnt sitting under 1.5 ft of snow

Tom O.

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Old 03-02-2015, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by nando820 View Post
Hi to all 5030 owners here, would you recommend a Darbee or is the "Super Resolution" I believe its called good enough?
Super resolution @ 2
I love it.
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Old 03-02-2015, 08:00 PM
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So a few posts a ways back was talking about how having the projector in front mode vs front/ceiling mode made the fan noise a lot quieter. I have my projector in a lift (not a DIY lift) that drops down out of the ceiling (my HT is in my living room) and didn't think it was possible for me to invert the projector to allow me to use front instead of front/ceiling. The fan noise in Dynamic 3D mode bothered me enough that it pushed me to find a way to mount it this other way. WOW ....fan noise for dynamic 3D mode pretty much dropped in half and doesn't really bother me at all now It did drop a bit in ECO mode as well but it was already very quite IMO. If anyone is bothered by the fan noise in a high lamp setting because of a ceiling mount, then I encourage to try to find a way to invert it so you can run it in front mode. I think that was the only thing that bothered me about this projector. Still LOVING this thing and now its even better

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Old 03-03-2015, 08:47 AM
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Makes me glad I elected to go the very less expensive shelf mount over a more expensive ceiling mount! I had heard that this was the case but haven't heard a lot of first hand testimonials on the subject.

@ Edllguy

Right now there is no 5040ub. You are correct this year they just came out with an improved firmware that greatly improves the Super Resolution settings. It does do a great job at enhancing the PQ but you need to play with it depending on the movie and content your watching. Seems the consensuses here seems to be most movies are good at SR 3 but if the movie is real grainy to begin with you may end up lowering it or turning it off. It's something you kind of just play with to find what you prefer depending on what your watching. The 5030UB is a great projector. I ended up grabbing one this December. I figure it will hold me for the next few years until 4k pj's are down in the price range of the 5030.
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Last edited by gec5741; 03-03-2015 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by SBuger View Post
I have my projector in a lift (not a DIY lift) that drops down out of the ceiling (my HT is in my living room)
What lift are you using if you don't mind me asking?
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:27 PM
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Hey guys my 5030 just arrived! The strike on the docks caused a delay in shipment oops.

A few questions:

I see lots of people refer to an Eco mode. I do not have this - just a normal and extra bright mode. Is that due to the new firmware?

I'm on Firmware V111 - is that the most recent?

What are the recommended settings you guys use for daytime/everyday viewing and gaming?

How about for watching movies with good light control?

Also, is the 2D to 3D conversion any good? I don't have any 1.4 HDMI cables, and my receiver is rather old, so I don't think we'll be doing 3D any time soon otherwise. While we're at it, any suggestions for receivers? I'm coming from a Denon AVR-988 and it's pretty nice...

Unfortunately, there's really not much literature with the projector so anything you can post will help .

Also, thanks for the mount measurements - My 1080UB mount works perfectly with the new pj. Though it's larger and heavier, so I worry about the projector wobbling too much with the side mount...

Holding the fort on old games that play the same as the new ones, minus the $400 price tag.

Last edited by Lord_Zath; 03-03-2015 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord_Zath View Post
I see lots of people refer to an Eco mode. I do not have this - just a normal and extra bright mode. Is that due to the new firmware?
I believe the power consumption options are eco and normal in THX color mode and normal and extra bright in other color modes. (Or vice versa, I can't quite remember)
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jaydee77ca View Post
I believe the power consumption options are eco and normal in THX color mode and normal and extra bright in other color modes. (Or vice versa, I can't quite remember)
hmm ok I'll check it out. I have THX color by default. Is there a different mode that most recommend?

Holding the fort on old games that play the same as the new ones, minus the $400 price tag.
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Old 03-03-2015, 06:39 PM
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hmm ok I'll check it out. I have THX color by default. Is there a different mode that most recommend?
THX mode is the most accurate mode out of the box.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

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Old 03-03-2015, 06:42 PM
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Thanks! Is normal on THX the same as eco on other modes? I'm trying to stretch out bulb life if possible...

And DANG is this picture quality amazing. It makes my old 1080UB look like a big blob of brown and black paint...

Holding the fort on old games that play the same as the new ones, minus the $400 price tag.
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Old 03-03-2015, 06:48 PM
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... Is normal on THX the same as eco on other modes? ...
Yup.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

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Old 03-03-2015, 11:46 PM
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THX mode is the most accurate mode out of the box.
Actually, although it's the most accurate "out of the box", Cinema mode calibrates better. THX mode is actually undersaturated. I've found that it's impossible to hit the 100% RGBCYM points. With Cinema mode, you have lots of head room to work with if you have a meter and software like CalMan, ChromaPure or HCFR.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:17 AM
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A pro calibrator I called in adjusted the Cinema mode and left THX alone on my 6030. A/B tests show the Cinema mode is now better than THX, which is excellent but, as pointed out above, a bit undersaturated in comparison. In particular, the reds and greens are better now with more "pop" and facial details are a bit sharper. But make no mistake, if I had not known better, THX right out of the box would have been more than satisfactory.

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Old 03-04-2015, 06:13 AM
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Is it ok to install a voltage regulator for the projector? My friend's Optoma HD20 just got damaged due to irregular voltage in his area. I'm worried about my precious Epson.
I'm thinking of this APC voltage regulator. Is 1200VA ok?
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:26 AM
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A pro calibrator I called in adjusted the Cinema mode and left THX alone on my 6030. A/B tests show the Cinema mode is now better than THX, which is excellent but, as pointed out above, a bit undersaturated in comparison. In particular, the reds and greens are better now with more "pop" and facial details are a bit sharper. But make no mistake, if I had not known better, THX right out of the box would have been more than satisfactory.
I love how THX looks on my 6030. I have about 500 hours on the lamp and have not had the pro cal done and probably wont due to the fact that I love the picture as is and why spend up to $500 for something that may improve the look a little but not enough to justify the price.

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Old 03-04-2015, 08:05 AM
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I know what you are saying. It is expensive, that's for sure. I have had this calibrator come by before with my previous projector when he is on tour in my area. He is one of the best in the country and he also calibrated my entire sound system to where it never sounded better. He is very good and although the picture is fine right out of the box, his work made it even better. Perhaps not "WOW!" better but noticeably so. To me it was worth it - but of course everyone has to decide that for themselves.

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Old 03-04-2015, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by gec5741 View Post
Makes me glad I elected to go the very less expensive shelf mount over a more expensive ceiling mount! I had heard that this was the case but haven't heard a lot of first hand testimonials on the subject.
Good choice for sure!

Onkyo TX-NR5010 - Oppo BDP-103 - KEF Q900 (mains) - KEF Q600c (center) - KEF Ci160QL (surrounds) - KEF Ci130QS (heights) - JTR Powered Captivator 2400 - Rhythmik FV15HP - MiniDSP 2x4 Balanced - Crowson Dual Shadow-8 Tactile Motion Actuators - ButtKicker BKA1000-N Power Amp - Epson 5030ub Projector - Samsung PN64F8500 Plasma TV - Darbee Darblet - SeymourAV 120" 16:9 Retractable AT Screen
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:04 AM
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I would have to agree that cinema looks a little nicer than THX. I found THX a little too dark with the blacks, if that makes sense.

In the 1080UB thread, we used to have people sharing pictures of their calibration settings. Does that not happen here? I've flipped through a bunch of threads, but haven't seen much on it...

Also, how's 2D->3D? Worth it or more of a gimmick?

Is V111 the most recent firmware? Epson's firmware update says it is, but I never trust those

Holding the fort on old games that play the same as the new ones, minus the $400 price tag.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:11 AM
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What lift are you using if you don't mind me asking?
I'm using a Chief SL236FD. Once installed its an awesome lift ...but for the money it should be. The damn thing was not cheap and was not an easy install. To my surprise all lifts are ridiculously expensive. I could have had another JTR Cap and Rythmik FV15HP to give me duals of each for the cost of the lift + having some frame work done to accommodate it. Makes me sometimes wish I would have just put it on a portable stand when its movie time. There is something about pressing a button and having it drop out of the ceiling that is cool though! Everyone that see's it drop down is like ...whoa that's so cool!

Unfortunately I don't have a dedicated room so my HT has to go in my living room for now. The wife didn't want to see the projector hanging down right in the middle of the living room - so went with the lift. Drops down at movie time and out of sight the rest of the time. This will give you an idea of what it looks like. It'll drop down about 3' or so but I keep it where it is at now so your don't have to worry about bonking you head on it.
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Onkyo TX-NR5010 - Oppo BDP-103 - KEF Q900 (mains) - KEF Q600c (center) - KEF Ci160QL (surrounds) - KEF Ci130QS (heights) - JTR Powered Captivator 2400 - Rhythmik FV15HP - MiniDSP 2x4 Balanced - Crowson Dual Shadow-8 Tactile Motion Actuators - ButtKicker BKA1000-N Power Amp - Epson 5030ub Projector - Samsung PN64F8500 Plasma TV - Darbee Darblet - SeymourAV 120" 16:9 Retractable AT Screen
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord_Zath View Post
I would have to agree that cinema looks a little nicer than THX. I found THX a little too dark with the blacks, if that makes sense.

In the 1080UB thread, we used to have people sharing pictures of their calibration settings. Does that not happen here? I've flipped through a bunch of threads, but haven't seen much on it...

Also, how's 2D->3D? Worth it or more of a gimmick?

Is V111 the most recent firmware? Epson's firmware update says it is, but I never trust those
I don't normally post my calibration settings because 1: my room is different than your room and 2: I use a DVDO iScan Duo so my settings would be of no use to you.


2D>3D doesn't really do it for me. Some movies look ok with it, but over all, I never use this feature.


Finally, V111 is the most current firmware.
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Old 03-05-2015, 03:25 PM
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Thanks for the post! I usually like to play with calibration settings but since I'm rather colorblind, I can't calibrate on my own. I'm pretty happy with what the projector displays out of the box, but again - colorblind

Holding the fort on old games that play the same as the new ones, minus the $400 price tag.
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Old 03-05-2015, 04:25 PM
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Thanks for the post! I usually like to play with calibration settings but since I'm rather colorblind, I can't calibrate on my own. I'm pretty happy with what the projector displays out of the box, but again - colorblind
You don't need good color vision to calibrate, you need a meter. Your eyes can't accurately see how far away (and how) you are from the targeted standard anyway. Now, for enjoying the fruits of a calibration fully, color vision is probably a benefit

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

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Old 03-05-2015, 09:01 PM
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Question

Hello owners... I'm a current Benq W1070 owners (my first/only FP to date). I'm curious if anyone here ran a W1070 and now uses a 5030UB who can give me some candid feedback on the value of the upgrade? I have an opportunity to purchase a 1 yr old unit for about the street price and considering it. My screen is 110" home made BOC and I like the PQ of the Benq W1070

Should I spend the money to upgrade... in all it will cost me about $1k to do it

I watch it almost every night for about 2-4 hours, TV (1080i & 720p) & Movies (720p & 1080p) - in a light controlled room. When football season is around then I do use ambient light when friends are over and i can keep my room at about 50% lit without being washed out much.

Thx for your input!

________
Ltek

my setup: XBMC, Windows Media Center, Z-Wave/Insteon automation, Paradigm-Parasound-Onkyo-Velodyne Home Theater, 110" DIY Screen & BenQ W1070
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Old 03-06-2015, 12:09 PM
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OK so new issue. I have watched only a couple of movies so far. The issue I am having is the screen sometimes goes blank and I get "HDMI 1 not supported" in the lower left of the screen. The only resolution is to unplug the HDMI cable in the projector and plug it back in. Sometimes it works sometimes I have to power down everything and start over again. The lipsync issue is pretty bad as well some movies it perfectly fine some it's 45ms off! There's no pattern to what is going on I cannot figure out what it is whether it's the PS4, the Anthem 710MX receiver or the Epson. I can say that the sound stays on when the screen goes away so I am still thinking it's the projector. Any ideas?
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Old 03-06-2015, 12:23 PM
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Sounds like the problem is the hdmi cables or connections. These are gremlins. They can not be figured out other than by trial and error, a/b tests, replacements, etc. My lamp showed the dreaded blinking red light yet it has less than 500 hours. I unplugged the projector, waited ten minutes and plugged it back in and all was well. No reason for it but it happened because something was reset. Same with hdmi problems. Lip sync is always crazy and sometimes changes with the program. If there is a problem the hdmi speech will be off slightly and is the culprit, not the projector. To test this try the component connections instead. I'll bet the lip sync issue will be resolved. Use the hdmi again and the problem will resurface. Just one of those things. The same is true of your "unable to identify" or "hdmi 1 not supported" notice. The problem is almost always the hdmi cable or connectors.

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Old 03-06-2015, 01:39 PM
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Sounds like the problem is the hdmi cables or connections. These are gremlins. They can not be figured out other than by trial and error, a/b tests, replacements, etc. My lamp showed the dreaded blinking red light yet it has less than 500 hours. I unplugged the projector, waited ten minutes and plugged it back in and all was well. No reason for it but it happened because something was reset. Same with hdmi problems. Lip sync is always crazy and sometimes changes with the program. If there is a problem the hdmi speech will be off slightly and is the culprit, not the projector. To test this try the component connections instead. I'll bet the lip sync issue will be resolved. Use the hdmi again and the problem will resurface. Just one of those things. The same is true of your "unable to identify" or "hdmi 1 not supported" notice. The problem is almost always the hdmi cable or connectors.
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OK so new issue. I have watched only a couple of movies so far. The issue I am having is the screen sometimes goes blank and I get "HDMI 1 not supported" in the lower left of the screen. The only resolution is to unplug the HDMI cable in the projector and plug it back in. Sometimes it works sometimes I have to power down everything and start over again. The lipsync issue is pretty bad as well some movies it perfectly fine some it's 45ms off! There's no pattern to what is going on I cannot figure out what it is whether it's the PS4, the Anthem 710MX receiver or the Epson. I can say that the sound stays on when the screen goes away so I am still thinking it's the projector. Any ideas?
I have occasional "video signal not supported" when switching inputs on my Onkyo 3009. It only happens when the source is switched when everything is already on another source. I simply switch to the NET source, wait for the video to display, then switch back to the WDTV live or cable DVR source. Fixes it every time.

I'm thinking a handshake signal with "warm" switching of sources is the culprit. Not sure what would cause cold input problems other than a cable.

How long is your cable and what brand and model?

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Old 03-08-2015, 01:20 AM
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OK so new issue. I have watched only a couple of movies so far. The issue I am having is the screen sometimes goes blank and I get "HDMI 1 not supported" in the lower left of the screen. The only resolution is to unplug the HDMI cable in the projector and plug it back in. Sometimes it works sometimes I have to power down everything and start over again. The lipsync issue is pretty bad as well some movies it perfectly fine some it's 45ms off! There's no pattern to what is going on I cannot figure out what it is whether it's the PS4, the Anthem 710MX receiver or the Epson. I can say that the sound stays on when the screen goes away so I am still thinking it's the projector. Any ideas?
Yes, agree with the others. Sounds like a cable. Sometimes I get a complete cut-out of image when changing sources or after ejecting a disc, but it's all to do with handshaking issues down a long video chain through a Darbee, 35ft Redmere cable etc. etc. HDMI is a notoriously unstable platform and is unfortunately the scourge of our otherwise fantastic hobby.
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:17 AM
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I have two 35 foot Mediabridge Ultra buried between the ceiling and the back of my cabinet then my installer put plates to connect the two ends creating a "splice" I upgraded both ends with really good high speed cables. The problems have gotten better but not entirely went away. I still have issues backing out of a Bluray on the PS4 I literally have to just power it off and start over. At least the screen doesn't appear to be cutting out as often as it was. Would having an oppo player be any better or is it the chain between receiver and Epson that is causing it? Would I have been better to "home run" that 35' between the receiver and projector? I will have to unrack everything and replace that plate with a blank in order to do that though UGH I guess it depends on how frustrating it is!
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Old 03-08-2015, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tf4 View Post
I have two 35 foot Mediabridge Ultra buried between the ceiling and the back of my cabinet then my installer put plates to connect the two ends creating a "splice" I upgraded both ends with really good high speed cables. The problems have gotten better but not entirely went away. I still have issues backing out of a Bluray on the PS4 I literally have to just power it off and start over. At least the screen doesn't appear to be cutting out as often as it was. Would having an oppo player be any better or is it the chain between receiver and Epson that is causing it? Would I have been better to "home run" that 35' between the receiver and projector? I will have to unrack everything and replace that plate with a blank in order to do that though UGH I guess it depends on how frustrating it is!
I thought about going with a wall plate, but I hate adding extra connectors into the mix as there is more of a chance of problems. Are you able to pull the HDMI cable through the wall to the back of your AVR? That is how I ran mine, but no guarantee it will solve your problem.

I bought the Blue Rigger 35' CL3 rated for in-wall installation and have it running straight from the projector, through the ceiling and down the wall, and to the AVR. I have a plate with a brush on it that the cable passes through. I would definitely run you cable straight through if you can.

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Old 03-08-2015, 04:09 PM
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Can someone tell me if 5030 can light up a 150" 1.1g white screen from about 15-16ft (almost maxed out zoom) well enough in 3D mode? From what I've read in reviews it has a very poor light output in quality modes.

I'll use it in a light controlled room.
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