Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 181 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5401 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 08:15 AM
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I had a weird issue over the weekend. I always start my Activity from upstairs and let thing warm up for a few minutes, pour the beer, and go downstairs. But the PJ was not showing a picture, and I noticed the orange light was flashing by the word, lamp. So I did what anyone would do, turn the PJ off, and back on, and it worked fine. This was Friday, and the PJ worked fine on Saturday too.

So is my bulb going bad? I haven't checked lately, but I'd be surprised if I had more than 250 hours on it. Maybe less than 200.

I suppose having a spare on hand wouldn't be a bad idea, but I figured I had more time
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post #5402 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTheGreat View Post
I had a weird issue over the weekend. I always start my Activity from upstairs and let thing warm up for a few minutes, pour the beer, and go downstairs. But the PJ was not showing a picture, and I noticed the orange light was flashing by the word, lamp. So I did what anyone would do, turn the PJ off, and back on, and it worked fine. This was Friday, and the PJ worked fine on Saturday too.

So is my bulb going bad? I haven't checked lately, but I'd be surprised if I had more than 250 hours on it. Maybe less than 200.

I suppose having a spare on hand wouldn't be a bad idea, but I figured I had more time
I have a 6030 and it does what you describe but just every so often. It is a glitch and I doubt it represents a serious problem. Like every other piece of electronic equipment that acts weird sometimes, you need to shut it off, unplug the unit from the power supply so it resets, wait a few minutes, plug it back in and you are good to go. When in doubt with electronics the first thing to do is unplug and reset. If this condition happens every time then I would say you have a problem and it probably is bulb related.

shortspark
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post #5403 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 09:31 AM
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I've had this happen once with the 5025 (essentially the same as the 5030).
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post #5404 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTheGreat View Post
I had a weird issue over the weekend. I always start my Activity from upstairs and let thing warm up for a few minutes, pour the beer, and go downstairs. But the PJ was not showing a picture, and I noticed the orange light was flashing by the word, lamp. So I did what anyone would do, turn the PJ off, and back on, and it worked fine. This was Friday, and the PJ worked fine on Saturday too.

So is my bulb going bad? I haven't checked lately, but I'd be surprised if I had more than 250 hours on it. Maybe less than 200.

I suppose having a spare on hand wouldn't be a bad idea, but I figured I had more time
Maybe you've already seen this, but if you haven't...
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/s...88&foid=244303
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post #5405 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 11:25 AM
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Thanks guys. I figured it was okay, but found it odd. I'll likely forget about this happening soon enough!
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post #5406 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 08:18 PM
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Hello all . I'm looking to upgrade. My optoma hd20 to the 5030 or 5020. I had a few questions from you who already own the 5030.

My current set up a 92 inch screen about 10 feet from seating. My current lens on the optoma is about 10.5 front the screen but optoma does a 7 inch drop to center of the screen (don't know the name for that )


Will this epson be able to throw that short maybe 9ft or 10 ft from lens to screen without having issues. Projector central shows with the zoom I will be fine.

Next question is if it can do that how low do i have to have it hanging from ceiling to match the optomas 7 inch drop? Is this something lens shift could handle or tilting they mount which I thought lowers quality?

Thanks fellas !

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post #5407 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thirsty1258 View Post
Hello all . I'm looking to upgrade. My optoma hd20 to the 5030 or 5020. I had a few questions from you who already own the 5030.
My current set up a 92 inch screen about 10 feet from seating. My current lens on the optoma is about 10.5 front the screen but optoma does a 7 inch drop to center of the screen (don't know the name for that )

Will this epson be able to throw that short maybe 9ft or 10 ft from lens to screen without having issues. Projector central shows with the zoom I will be fine.

Next question is if it can do that how low do i have to have it hanging from ceiling to match the optomas 7 inch drop? Is this something lens shift could handle or tilting they mount which I thought lowers quality?
Thanks fellas !
Thirsty1258
I have a 100" screen at 11' from lens to screen, so you should be fine, especially since the Projector Central calculator says it will work. I used their calculator to figure out what size would work for my room.

For your 2nd question, the 5030UB has a large vertical (and horizontal) lens shift capability. Attached are pictures of my setup -- it's hard to see, but the center of my 5030UB lens just below the top of the screen. The other picture is the applicable page from the 5030UB users guide, which shows that the 5030 can be well below or above the screen, and shift the image onto the screen.
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post #5408 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke61 View Post
I have a 100" screen at 11' from lens to screen, so you should be fine, especially since the Projector Central calculator says it will work. I used their calculator to figure out what size would work for my room.

For your 2nd question, the 5030UB has a large vertical (and horizontal) lens shift capability. Attached are pictures of my setup -- it's hard to see, but the center of my 5030UB lens just below the top of the screen. The other picture is the applicable page from the 5030UB users guide, which shows that the 5030 can be well below or above the screen, and shift the image onto the screen.
Awesome!! Thx man could you send a pic of the mount set up and how far down from ceiling ? Are you upside down or shelf

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post #5409 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Thirsty1258 View Post
Awesome!! Thx man could you send a pic of the mount set up and how far down from ceiling ? Are you upside down or shelf
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I bought the shelf shown in the attached picture from Amazon, it's perfect! Easy to install, and just a tiny bit larger than the footprint of the 5030.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

The shelf is 3-1/2' from the 10' high ceiling. At my previous house I had the PJ mounted upside down, and although I thought the fan noise was fine, it's nearly dead quiet now. I'm running Eco/Low power mode in a light controlled room.
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post #5410 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke61 View Post
I bought the shelf shown in the attached picture from Amazon, it's perfect! Easy to install, and just a tiny bit larger than the footprint of the 5030.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

The shelf is 3-1/2' from the 10' high ceiling. At my previous house I had the PJ mounted upside down, and although I thought the fan noise was fine, it's nearly dead quiet now. I'm running Eco/Low power mode in a light controlled room.
Perfect thanks for that. I will go this way for sure. My mount upside down is very difficult to change bulbs and maintain due to the seating. I know this is an lcd projector but do the bulbs last any longer or shorter? Thx again guys I'm getting excited about my room again

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post #5411 of 5917 Old 12-28-2015, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke61 View Post
I bought the shelf shown in the attached picture from Amazon, it's perfect! Easy to install, and just a tiny bit larger than the footprint of the 5030.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

The shelf is 3-1/2' from the 10' high ceiling. At my previous house I had the PJ mounted upside down, and although I thought the fan noise was fine, it's nearly dead quiet now. I'm running Eco/Low power mode in a light controlled room.
I wish there was some kind of hanging ceiling shelf that would allow the projector to sit right side up but hanging from the ceiling... (instead of upside down on a mount) Preferably slim with minimum hang as my ceiling is low

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Last edited by jaydee77ca; 12-28-2015 at 11:12 PM.
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post #5412 of 5917 Old 12-29-2015, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jaydee77ca View Post
I wish there was some kind of hanging ceiling shelf that would allow the projector to sit right side up but hanging from the ceiling... (instead of upside down on a mount)...

You'll find plenty of those mounts. e.g. http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/LCDA
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post #5413 of 5917 Old 12-29-2015, 02:58 PM
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Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post
You'll find plenty of those mounts. e.g. http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/LCDA

Cool! But it appears that mount is $400-$900 here in Canada :/
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...9SIA6RD2FG6201
http://www.staples.ca/en/Chief-MIL-C...4_2-CA_1_20001
http://www.amazon.ca/Chief-Manufactu.../dp/B0141M56II


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post #5414 of 5917 Old 12-29-2015, 03:10 PM
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^ That was just meant to be an example. I think you'll find cheap versions too. But if you can make a rear shelf mount work instead then you can easily rig something up yourself.
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post #5415 of 5917 Old 12-29-2015, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jaydee77ca View Post
Cool! But it appears that mount is $400-$900 here in Canada :/
$256, plus shipping to Canada - anywhere from free for 8 day service, to $76 for 2 day service.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Universal.html
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post #5416 of 5917 Old 12-30-2015, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydee77ca View Post
Cool! But it appears that mount is $400-$900 here in Canada :/
As you mentioned your ceiling is low and you are looking for low profile solution, it's a simple and cheap DIY project to build a ceiling drop shelf/box/inverted mount close to the ceiling. Build it square, level and plumb - it doesn't need to be adjustable, so you don't need the added axis adjustments found on the aftermarket solutions. A few dollars in materials and you can put together exactly what you want.

Look at Google images for 'projector box mount' or similar, and get some ideas ...

Last edited by WestCDA; 12-30-2015 at 10:54 AM.
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post #5417 of 5917 Old 12-30-2015, 03:55 PM
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The spare lamp on my 14 month old 5030 just started flickering, after 650 hours. The first lamp started flickering after 540 hours. I called Epson and while the product may have its issues, the customer service is as great as people say. They're sending me a replacement immediately (with a credit card hold), and I'll return the defective unit when I receive the replacement.

I'm hoping that the replacement - in addition to being flicker-free - has stickier lens shift controls. On my current unit they have a lot of slack and don't always stay in place.

I tried running it on high for a few hours, both now and back when the first lamp started acting up. That did take care of the flickering (on low) but the fix was short-lived and only lasted maybe 30 minutes.

Long story short: product quality meh, customer service yay.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

Epson 5030UB, 100" Carada Criterion with Classic Cinema White, Onkyo TX-NR818, NHT Classic 3s, Classic ThreeC, SuperZero 2.1s, Mirage Omni S10, Oppo 103D. Currently boxed up: Denon 1713, Klipsch SW-450,
NHT Absolute Center, Energy Veritas 5.1s, 5.2C, V-Mini-C.
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post #5418 of 5917 Old 12-30-2015, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willieconway View Post
The spare lamp on my 14 month old 5030 just started flickering, after 650 hours. The first lamp started flickering after 540 hours. I called Epson and while the product may have its issues, the customer service is as great as people say. They're sending me a replacement immediately (with a credit card hold), and I'll return the defective unit when I receive the replacement.

I'm hoping that the replacement - in addition to being flicker-free - has stickier lens shift controls. On my current unit they have a lot of slack and don't always stay in place.

I tried running it on high for a few hours, both now and back when the first lamp started acting up. That did take care of the flickering (on low) but the fix was short-lived and only lasted maybe 30 minutes.

Long story short: product quality meh, customer service yay.
I have this flickering issue too! It only happens when on the ECO/normal setting. At first it was intermittent and running on high/extra bright for a while would get rid of it but now it happens often and changing modes doesn't seem to help. I'll call them and see what they say but your info sounds promising!

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post #5419 of 5917 Old 12-30-2015, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydee77ca View Post
I have this flickering issue too! It only happens when on the ECO/normal setting. At first it was intermittent and running on high/extra bright for a while would get rid of it but now it happens often and changing modes doesn't seem to help. I'll call them and see what they say but your info sounds promising!

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Yup, sounds like the exact same problem.

Make sure that you've confirmed that it's also an issue when on the built-in pattern. That was pretty much the only verification they asked from me, to make sure that it's not specific to one source or content type.

Oh, and they will need your unit's S/N so make sure you have it ready

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

Epson 5030UB, 100" Carada Criterion with Classic Cinema White, Onkyo TX-NR818, NHT Classic 3s, Classic ThreeC, SuperZero 2.1s, Mirage Omni S10, Oppo 103D. Currently boxed up: Denon 1713, Klipsch SW-450,
NHT Absolute Center, Energy Veritas 5.1s, 5.2C, V-Mini-C.
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post #5420 of 5917 Old 12-30-2015, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCDA View Post
As you mentioned your ceiling is low and you are looking for low profile solution, it's a simple and cheap DIY project to build a ceiling drop shelf/box/inverted mount close to the ceiling. Build it square, level and plumb - it doesn't need to be adjustable, so you don't need the added axis adjustments found on the aftermarket solutions. A few dollars in materials and you can put together exactly what you want.

Look at Google images for 'projector box mount' or similar, and get some ideas ...
Great idea! Something like this built right up flush to the ceiling (instead of hanging from metal rods) would work great actually...



Thanks!

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post #5421 of 5917 Old 12-30-2015, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by willieconway View Post
Yup, sounds like the exact same problem.

Make sure that you've confirmed that it's also an issue when on the built-in pattern. That was pretty much the only verification they asked from me, to make sure that it's not specific to one source or content type.

Oh, and they will need your unit's S/N so make sure you have it ready
Ok thanks for the advice. I've had it happen with cable tv, ps3, and my htpc but I'll put the pattern on next time I notice it.

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post #5422 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 06:36 AM
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This PJ box is lined with 3/4" wool felt for noise reduction.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydee77ca View Post
Great idea! Something like this built right up flush to the ceiling (instead of hanging from metal rods) would work great actually...



Thanks!

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post #5423 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 08:55 AM
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Hi all! I just returned a new 75" LCD TV and bought this 5030UB. I have an i1D3 and HCFR software, and I'll be attempting to calibrate it. Is there anything special I need to be aware of for projectors? I've only done TVs to this point. A few things that come to mind are
  • what size patterns should I use (fields, windows, APL)
  • should auto-iris be turned off when calibrating, and then turned back on when watching
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post #5424 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 09:16 AM
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Help!! When mine goes into 3D mode the fabs are so so so so so so!!! Loud!!

Its ceiling mounted...

???
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post #5425 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
Hi all! I just returned a new 75" LCD TV and bought this 5030UB. I have an i1D3 and HCFR software, and I'll be attempting to calibrate it. Is there anything special I need to be aware of for projectors? I've only done TVs to this point. A few things that come to mind are
  • what size patterns should I use (fields, windows, APL)
  • should auto-iris be turned off when calibrating, and then turned back on when watching
A couple tips:
  1. Unless you're just interested in seeing how it performs, don't bother calibrating until it until you get to about 100 hours. I did a cal at ~50 hours, and then checked it at 75, and things had wandered significantly. I'm almost at 100 hours, so I'll probably go back in a week or two and have a more serious calibration session.
  2. Use field patterns.
  3. Most people recommend calibrating with the iris off. I calibrated with the iris off, and then went back and touched it up with the iris on. Then I went back and verified that I didn't completely mess things up when the iris is off.
  4. Don't ignore the separate gamma adjustments in the advanced menu. Without it, in THX mode I had to choose between crushing blacks a tiny bit, or washing them out a tiny bit. Using the gamma adjustment, I was able to nail it.
  5. @Kilgore has mentioned a couple times that THX mode under saturates colors a bit. I found the same thing. It's far from objectionable, but in THX I just couldn't find a way to pull red or green all the way to the edge of the triangle. Kilgore prefers Cinema mode, because it's over saturated, making it possible to pull the colors in enough to align with Rec709. For the life of me, I couldn't get gamma to play nice in Cinema mode. The gamma issues were much worse for me than the minor color desaturation, so I decided to stick with THX mode.

Good luck, and have fun.
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post #5426 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 10:17 AM
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Also, here's some advice from another thread from @Ellebob , who I believe is a professional calibrator or installer. I didn't follow it exactly, but found that the gamma curve that looked best to me is pretty close to what he suggested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellebob
I think some calibrators just use whatever preset measures closest to whatever target they want. If you don't go for a specific target like 2.2, 2.4, BT1886, etc. you can really make this PJ look phenomenal and very close to the lower model JVCs. Except for reference displays, calibration is part art and part science. For doing the low end of the gamma, you might be better aiming the meter at the projector and moving it closer to the projector to get the black levels higher for the meter to get better repeatability for gamma. This depends on which meter you are using. Don't adjust grayscale or other parameters this way unless you use an offset from the screen. For the very low end you can do part of it by eye if you wish and just use a scene you are very familiar. By the numbers you will want to increase the brightness and have the gamma to about 2.0 for the very low end under 10-15% stimulus and then about 2.35-2.4 above that until just past the midpoint and then to about 2.2-2.3 for the very high end. This will give very good shadow detail on the very low end but keep blacks deep. I think in this price range of projectors this PJ gives better picture quality than any others when calibrated. Play with it and I am sure you will get good results.
I cannot stress enough - do not ignore the individual gamma corrections. You're leaving a lot of performance on the table if you do.

You might want to look at this write-up regarding calibration. It covers projectors. While it's written from ChromaPure, with a bit of abstraction, you'll find that everything in there applies to HCFR:

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322
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post #5427 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 10:22 AM
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I also couldn't wrangle gamma into place in Cinema mode, not even close. However, on mine the colors are near perfect in THX mode so I don't need Cinema. Yesterday I calibrated with the lamp on high power since I have to use it that way until I get a replacement unit next week. In THX mode I get dE < 0.5 for all colors on both low and high lamp, right out of the box. Gamma is almost perfect too, or at least good enough, when using the -1 setting (on high lamp). Only the greyscale requires quite a bit of work and is noticeable incorrect out of the box. Both it and gamma vary greatly on the two different lamp modes.

I'm curious to see how different - if at all - the replacement unit I get is.
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Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.

Epson 5030UB, 100" Carada Criterion with Classic Cinema White, Onkyo TX-NR818, NHT Classic 3s, Classic ThreeC, SuperZero 2.1s, Mirage Omni S10, Oppo 103D. Currently boxed up: Denon 1713, Klipsch SW-450,
NHT Absolute Center, Energy Veritas 5.1s, 5.2C, V-Mini-C.
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post #5428 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 10:23 AM
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A couple tips:
  1. Unless you're just interested in seeing how it performs, don't bother calibrating until it until you get to about 100 hours. I did a cal at ~50 hours, and then checked it at 75, and things had wandered significantly. I'm almost at 100 hours, so I'll probably go back in a week or two and have a more serious calibration session.
  2. Use field patterns.
  3. Most people recommend calibrating with the iris off. I calibrated with the iris off, and then went back and touched it up with the iris on. Then I went back and verified that I didn't completely mess things up when the iris is off.
  4. Don't ignore the separate gamma adjustments in the advanced menu. Without it, in THX mode I had to choose between crushing blacks a tiny bit, or washing them out a tiny bit. Using the gamma adjustment, I was able to nail it.
  5. Kilgore has mentioned a couple times that THX mode under saturates colors a bit. I found the same thing. It's far from objectionable, but in THX I just couldn't find a way to pull red or green all the way to the edge of the triangle. Kilgore prefers Cinema mode, because it's over saturated, making it possible to pull the colors in enough to align with Rec709. For the life of me, I couldn't get gamma to play nice in Cinema mode. The gamma issues were much worse for me than the minor color desaturation, so I decided to stick with THX mode.

Good luck, and have fun.
Awesome. I appreciate the tips. I may just setup my meter when I first get it to see what kind of light output I'm getting. That's one thing I'm not sure about with projectors. On my TV, I would set contrast to the maximum without clipping or discoloration, and then use the backlight to hit my target ftL. How do I target a specific ftL with the Epson, since there isn't a backlight like on TVs? It sounds like the THX mode should be pretty close, though.
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post #5429 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 10:24 AM
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I also couldn't wrangle gamma into place in Cinema mode, not even close. However, on mine the colors are near perfect in THX mode so I don't need Cinema. Yesterday I calibrated with the lamp on high power since I have to use it that way until I get a replacement unit next week. In THX mode I get dE < 0.5 for all colors on both low and high lamp, right out of the box. Gamma is almost perfect too, or at least good enough, when using the -1 setting (on high lamp). Only the greyscale requires quite a bit of work and is noticeable incorrect out of the box. Both it and gamma vary greatly on the two different lamp modes.

I'm curious to see how different - if at all - the replacement unit I get is.
I know this is probably a huge debate, but what's the optimal gamma for these? 2.4?
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post #5430 of 5917 Old 12-31-2015, 10:35 AM
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I also couldn't wrangle gamma into place in Cinema mode, not even close.
If I remember correctly, @Kilgore is using a video processor, which gives him much more flexibility to make Cinema mode behave. I'm trying to take the video processor out of my video chain so I can move it to another room.

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Gamma is almost perfect too, or at least good enough, when using the -1 setting (on high lamp). Only the greyscale requires quite a bit of work and is noticeable incorrect out of the box. Both it and gamma vary greatly on the two different lamp modes.
I was able to get gamma to track pretty well with the predefined curves as well (-1, I believe, but maybe -2). However, I found I could get a much more pleasing picture if I followed @Ellebob 's advice that I posted a few posts back. If you want to get adventurous, give it a try, you might find some extra shadow detail you didn't know you had.

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How do I target a specific ftL with the Epson, since there isn't a backlight like on TVs? It sounds like the THX mode should be pretty close, though.
Use contrast to get to the light output you want. I found that 9 worked well for me, as it preserved some headroom above 100% white, and gave me nearly 14ftL. Your room, setup, and screen will impact that, obviously. Keep in mind, when you adjust contrast, you affect overall gamma, since it's relative to light output at 100% (and 0%).
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