Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 37 - AVS Forum
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Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP > Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread
FATHERFORD's Avatar FATHERFORD 12:17 PM 11-14-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

For those asking about calibration, normal lamp in natural mode is decent for out of the box viewing, but high lamp is off by a relatively large margin with a heavy push towards red and blue. dE's are in the double digits and it's easy to see how far off it is from D65. Same thing applies to high lamp in 3d mode.

Of course it's easily adjusted with Cal equipment.

This is what I noticed. heavy on red and blue. To the point watching CSI the people look like umpa-lumpas.

Ix's Avatar Ix 04:17 PM 11-14-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by FATHERFORD View Post

This is what I noticed. heavy on red and blue. To the point watching CSI the people look like umpa-lumpas.

I had the same experience but it was easy to tweak.

THX was the opposite for me, a little green bias there.

All in all it was pretty easy to get it straight, and I'm happy with the picture. For $2600 this really is an outstanding unit though I can certainly respect that others may prefer JVC, etc.
Ix's Avatar Ix 04:19 PM 11-14-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by FATHERFORD View Post

My couldn't adjust my colors with the spears and Munsil disk. I could never make the filter black out like it was supposed to.

That's strange - what's your screen? I didn't have that problem with mine.
Carlos_'s Avatar Carlos_ 05:20 PM 11-14-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ix View Post

That's strange - what's your screen? I didn't have that problem with mine.

Ix:

What are the dimensions of the screen you use? Did you use the same screen for both the 5030 and the 8350?

Is it a 16x9 or a 2:35 screen?

If it is a 16:9 screen, when using the 5030 or the 8350, do they both project black bars at top and bottom of the screen when showing material shot in the 2:35 aspect ratio?
Ix's Avatar Ix 07:15 PM 11-14-2013
I'm not sure what you mean. My screen is 1:85 (16x9) and yes, I get black bars projected with scoped material - virtually every projector on the market projects them, I don't think anyone ever launched a consumer scope PJ although there's periodic talk of one.

The only way to get rid of black bars is to either A) Zoom the picture (in which case a PJ like the AE8000 with powered zoom and memory is handy) - but you're not really "getting rid" of the black bars, just zooming them outside the screen area - or B) Use a PJ with vertical stretch, which will use all of the image for scoped movies. For those you also need an anamorphic lens to stretch the picture back out - and those start at around 3k, for the basic model. For both you'll need a 2:35.1 screen (technically, 2:40 would serve you better, you can find both from places like Carada).

You're always going to have black bars, unless you do the above, neither of which is an option with the 5030ub anyway since it lacks powered zoom/memory and stretch. You can calibrate to make them blacker, certainly, but you'll always see them a little - there's no avoiding the light spillage from the lens.

If you really hate them a lot, build or buy a masking system. I posted a link to a thread that shows how to do just that a few posts up. Lots of people do this - it's cheap, and very effective.

If you don't want to do that, then buy a scope screen (2:40) and a PJ you can zoom automatically like the AE8000u. I'd avoid the lens route unless you have money to burn - even if you buy the lens, most PJ's under 20k don't do that great a job with the stretch anyway.
flyguyjake's Avatar flyguyjake 07:30 PM 11-14-2013
What brand screen are you using?

Size?

White or Gray?

Gain 1.0, 1.1, 1.3 ?
Ix's Avatar Ix 08:44 PM 11-14-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyguyjake View Post

What brand screen are you using?

Size?

White or Gray?

Gain 1.0, 1.1, 1.3 ?

If you are asking me it's a 106 Elite CinemaWhite screen with 1.1 gain. Same one I had with the 8350.

I used to have a Carada 110 Brilliant White 1.4 gain screen but sold it a few years ago.
thethirdnut's Avatar thethirdnut 09:06 PM 11-14-2013

Samsung SSG-5100GB glasses.

 

I am looking into purchasing 4 pair of these in Canada - they seem to be offered for $30 each from several vendors north of the 49th.

 

Does anyone have any feedback on how well these works for kids...other than complaining, sitting on and breaking them, etc. ;-)

 

I've found some so-called 'universal kids 3d glasses' for $60 USD...just wondering how well these Samsung units will function for a 5 & 7 yr-old?

 

TIA


Carlos_'s Avatar Carlos_ 10:37 PM 11-14-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ix View Post

I'm not sure what you mean. My screen is 1:85 (16x9) and yes, I get black bars projected with scoped material - virtually every projector on the market projects them, I don't think anyone ever launched a consumer scope PJ although there's periodic talk of one.

The only way to get rid of black bars is to either A) Zoom the picture (in which case a PJ like the AE8000 with powered zoom and memory is handy) - but you're not really "getting rid" of the black bars, just zooming them outside the screen area - or B) Use a PJ with vertical stretch, which will use all of the image for scoped movies. For those you also need an anamorphic lens to stretch the picture back out - and those start at around 3k, for the basic model. For both you'll need a 2:35.1 screen (technically, 2:40 would serve you better, you can find both from places like Carada).

You're always going to have black bars, unless you do the above, neither of which is an option with the 5030ub anyway since it lacks powered zoom/memory and stretch. You can calibrate to make them blacker, certainly, but you'll always see them a little - there's no avoiding the light spillage from the lens.

If you really hate them a lot, build or buy a masking system. I posted a link to a thread that shows how to do just that a few posts up. Lots of people do this - it's cheap, and very effective.

If you don't want to do that, then buy a scope screen (2:40) and a PJ you can zoom automatically like the AE8000u. I'd avoid the lens route unless you have money to burn - even if you buy the lens, most PJ's under 20k don't do that great a job with the stretch anyway.

Yes. Your screen is 16x9 then. It will project the black bars at the top and bottom of the screen when you project a blu ray shot in the 2:35 aspect ratio. What I was trying to ask is if the black bars at the top and bottom are more noticeable when using the 8350 than when using the 5030? Are they more grayish on the 8350 than more black on the 5030 since the 5030 has better blacks?
Cyberathlete's Avatar Cyberathlete 10:48 PM 11-14-2013
Picked up the following from Best Buy today for a total of $2690 (after taxes)

  • Epson 5030 UB
  • 4 pairs of Samsung 3D glasses (4100G) [Sync'd easily]
  • 4 pairs of Panasonic (TY-ER3D4MU) [Can anyone help me with syncing these with the projector?]


I guess it helps having been a customer of the same Best Buy for 7 years (and having always treated every single employee with respect, even at times when they didn't come through smile.gif )

Just set it up and tested out a few movies.

Set up the following settings:
Mode: Dynamic (I like bright images with a lot of pop) (default Cinema)
Power: ECO (always) (default normal)
Sharpness: +2 (default 0)
Contrast: +3 (default 0)
Skin Tone: 5 (default 4)


I went from the 8350 (had it for exactly 2 years) to the 5030

First impressions:
Image is def sharper. Colors pop more, blacks are better but no way a night and day difference (prob has something to do with the Carada BW 1.4 gain screen). Colors do tend to push reds a bit more.

Image seems to have some depth to it, more so than 8350 but to be honest, the 8350 seriously holds its own. I bought the 8350 for $850 after taxes (Black Friday 2 years ago) and I still think it's worth every penny. And realize that even though the 5030 has an overall better image, it is by no means 3x better (or even 2x as better). I think it's averaging out to be around 25%-30% better than the 8350.

3D looks great. You def lose a noticeable amount of light when viewing in 3D (when watching on the same video setting, eg comparing Dynamic 2D vs 3D). The image is still bright enough to enjoy the movie. However 3D when viewed in Dynamic, looks just as bright, if not brighter, watching a 2D movie in THX or Cinema mode. So when the reviewer said that you can finally watch 3D in Dynamic mode and get the same amount of brightness as a 2D movie in THX/Cinema mode, he wasn't exaggerating.

Gaming (through a HTPC):
Batman Arkham Origins - very very very subtle lag (compared to the 8350, where I could detect no lag at all) but nothing to break the casual gameplay. May not suitable for competitive gaming but for general gaming it works just fine. Again, it's very very subtle and you can only notice it if you've been gaming on something that has given you almost no lag/delay at all. I am a hardcore gamer (used to compete nationally in UT a decade ago) and I'm pleased with it. So you shouldn't have anything to worry about (this was my biggest concern since I spend 60% of my time gaming in my HT).

Off to bed, will do more tests tomorrow (and finally watch Pacific Rim 3D. Had been putting that off once I heard the 5030 was coming out and I knew that I would be upgrading).

Can someone please help me on how to sync the Panasonic glasses. Thanks!
Cyberathlete's Avatar Cyberathlete 10:51 PM 11-14-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos_ View Post

Yes. Your screen is 16x9 then. It will project the black bars at the top and bottom of the screen when you project a blu ray shot in the 2:35 aspect ratio. What I was trying to ask is if the black bars at the top and bottom are more noticeable when using the 8350 than when using the 5030? Are they more grayish on the 8350 than more black on the 5030 since the 5030 has better blacks?

I can answer this question. They're about the same. Even my 5030 gives grayish bars for movies shot in the 2.35 aspect ratio. This has more to do with your screen than the projector.

I realized this because my friend bought a Panny AE7000 proj, and he had a 1.1 gain screen (which actually NOW i realize was the way to go to get deeper blacks and better contrast over all). He liked my Carada 1.4 because of the pop it had. He ordered a Carada for himself, and when I went to check it out, I noticed that his $2600 proj NOW produced the same grayish bars that my $850 Epson 8350 did.

Then I realized that an 8350 has a lot of pic quality muscle if you pair it with the right screen.

I am using a Carada BW 1.4 and getting the same grayish bars above and below that my 8350 gave me.

HOWEVER the over all image is definitely better. Better colors. Sharper image, and better contrast.
Ix's Avatar Ix 10:58 PM 11-14-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos_ View Post

Yes. Your screen is 16x9 then. It will project the black bars at the top and bottom of the screen when you project a blu ray shot in the 2:35 aspect ratio. What I was trying to ask is if the black bars at the top and bottom are more noticeable when using the 8350 than when using the 5030? Are they more grayish on the 8350 than more black on the 5030 since the 5030 has better blacks?


Yes.....I know it's 16x9 and what 2:35 (scope) movies will do on it... smile.gif

As for the difference, I haven't really noticed - no PJ has shown black bars that I wasn't distracted by. I'm going to install a mask next weekend anyway, I had one with my old screen.
programmergeek's Avatar programmergeek 05:47 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ix View Post

Yes.....I know it's 16x9 and what 2:35 (scope) movies will do on it... smile.gif

As for the difference, I haven't really noticed - no PJ has shown black bars that I wasn't distracted by. I'm going to install a mask next weekend anyway, I had one with my old screen.

Yes they are a little more noticeable but it really depends on the gain of the screen a white screen does much better than a gain screen a Black Diamond you don't even need masking. Masking is the best but once the move is on most people are not distracted. A little ambient light in the right places also makes the black look blacker it tricks your brain.
gec5741's Avatar gec5741 07:55 AM 11-15-2013
So with a black diamond the blacks are darker and the need for masking is not there? I wish those things weren't so darn expensive. cool.gif
jpmst3's Avatar jpmst3 08:14 AM 11-15-2013
OK guys, sorry for the ignorant question before I pull the trigger on a 5030 and a screen...

If I opt for the 2.35:1 screen, will I be able to simply project the 16:9 movie with side bars without adjusting the lens, focus, etc?
Cyberathlete's Avatar Cyberathlete 08:23 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

OK guys, sorry for the ignorant question before I pull the trigger on a 5030 and a screen...

If I opt for the 2.35:1 screen, will I be able to simply project the 16:9 movie with side bars without adjusting the lens, focus, etc?

Ummm not sure since I think the 2.35 movie will also project in the same space. The lens is not motorized and has to be manually zoomed in and out.

Also another updated to my review: the 5030 is loud. The fan is very audible and my 8350 was super silent (couldn't even tell it was turned on especially if it was getting no signal). The 5030 fan is like a turbine, just running at max speed frown.gif

I like the projector but do feel that in a few areas it' needs improvements.

Fan noise for one (and my projector is located in my basement where the temperature never ever goes above 60. it's that cold there). So not sure why it needs to work that hard to keep the bulb and the insides cool.
gec5741's Avatar gec5741 08:32 AM 11-15-2013
Doesn't that change depending on what mode you have it in?
jpmst3's Avatar jpmst3 08:35 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

Ummm not sure since I think the 2.35 movie will also project in the same space. The lens is not motorized and has to be manually zoomed in and out.

I don't know, that is why I am asking. I hear all this talk about CIH and the like, but I can't get a definitive answer on what works where.

I can't imagine that everyone is adjusting their lenses at every change in format!?!?

I have never had a projector so I am not sure what implications there are.
eliocon's Avatar eliocon 08:37 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

Ummm not sure since I think the 2.35 movie will also project in the same space. The lens is not motorized and has to be manually zoomed in and out.

Also another updated to my review: the 5030 is loud. The fan is very audible and my 8350 was super silent (couldn't even tell it was turned on especially if it was getting no signal). The 5030 fan is like a turbine, just running at max speed frown.gif

I like the projector but do feel that in a few areas it' needs improvements.

Fan noise for one (and my projector is located in my basement where the temperature never ever goes above 60. it's that cold there). So not sure why it needs to work that hard to keep the bulb and the insides cool.

What mode are you running the projector in? Mine is dead quiet unless I'm watching 3D. Then it sounds like the projector has a second job as a lawnmower.
Cyberathlete's Avatar Cyberathlete 08:42 AM 11-15-2013
Yea it was definitely 3D.

I don't remember if the bulb power was in Normal mode since I forget this projector actually has different settings for each viewing method. I will check it out during my lunch break (working from home today)

When I changed my input on the receiver (from blu-ray to PC), the projector changed settings as well (interesting). Seems like the projector can memorize different viewing settings for each receiver input.

Also can anyone tell me how to sync the Panasonic 3D glasses? The Samsung's sync'd automatically....the Panny's are fully charged and no clue as to what needs to be done. Thanks!
Ix's Avatar Ix 09:30 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

OK guys, sorry for the ignorant question before I pull the trigger on a 5030 and a screen...

If I opt for the 2.35:1 screen, will I be able to simply project the 16:9 movie with side bars without adjusting the lens, focus, etc?

Yes and no. You really don't want to use a 2:35:1 (Scope) screen with this PJ. I mean, you can, but you probably won't be happy with it. You'll have to manually zoom it, with the wheel, for 2:35:1 content, and zoom it back for 1:85 and lower. You'll be doing this no matter what if you switch between types. The latter will leave you not with black bars on the side, but no image at all. You'll just see your screen. Most people who do this mask the sides with drapes, since that is easier than making a horizontal mask (though not by much).

Also the wheels for zoom and focus are right next to one another and touchy, meaning you will probably end up needing to refocus most of the time. You will quickly grow tired of this, I assure you.

Again, there really shouldn't be any confusion on this issue (CIH). If you want to do a CIH setup, you really need a different projector. In this price range ($2600/under) the only one I'd recommend is the Panasonic AE8000u. That one has powered zoom AND zoom memory, meaning you can zoom content in and out with the touch of a button. As I mentioned above, this will not "get rid" of the black bars but zoomed it will project them outside of the screen area where you won't see them.

The other way involves a PJ that can do anamorphic stretch and an external lens. The Panny offers stretch too, however you probably don't want to do this - lens start at 3k, the one most people buy is closer to 5k, and if we're being honest the Panny's onboard processor doesn't do that great a job with the stretch - people who are serious about CIH either buy an external processor ($$) or a much more expensive projector ($$$).

"Poor mans CIH" is the zoom method. If you really want to do that, get an AE9000u and deal with its limitations (I don't think it looks as good as the 5030ub). The lens route could easily cost you 3 to 4 times the cost of the PJ itself by the time you are done.

If "black bars" really bother you then go to the link I posted above and learn how to make your own masks for about $30. You'll get virtually the same effect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

Yea it was definitely 3D.

I don't remember if the bulb power was in Normal mode since I forget this projector actually has different settings for each viewing method. I will check it out during my lunch break (working from home today)

When I changed my input on the receiver (from blu-ray to PC), the projector changed settings as well (interesting). Seems like the projector can memorize different viewing settings for each receiver input.

Also can anyone tell me how to sync the Panasonic 3D glasses? The Samsung's sync'd automatically....the Panny's are fully charged and no clue as to what needs to be done. Thanks!

The 5030ub is indeed loud in 3D. Even in "eco" mode the image is much brighter (on purpose, as "dim" 3D looks terrible no matter what PJ is doing it) and the fan always kicks in. That's the price for better looking 3D.

In regular 2D use it shouldn't be - it all depends on what mode you have it in and how bright the image is. You can tone this down via calibration.

In the end though yes, it is loud for a PJ - 32db on full fan, if I recall. If it's right over your head you'll notice it. It's one of the few areas I'd like Epson to improve upon.

I can't personally speak to the Panasonic 3D glasses - I know they are RF, but there's no guarantee they will work with the Epson PJ's. Are you sure you're just not getting a "sync" message but the glasses do turn on when 3D content is displayed? Have you tried syncing them when 3D content is playing?
Ix's Avatar Ix 09:35 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by programmergeek View Post

Yes they are a little more noticeable but it really depends on the gain of the screen a white screen does much better than a gain screen a Black Diamond you don't even need masking. Masking is the best but once the move is on most people are not distracted. A little ambient light in the right places also makes the black look blacker it tricks your brain.

I know. Black Diamond screens are 4-5k - for the smaller ones - and have their own set of issues, starting with the fact that they "sparkle" a little in bright white scenes. If you are buying one because you want a giant screen that looks like a Plasma TV in a well lit room and you have the money then they are great. Buying them for a light-controlled theater is a different story.

Again (I know I keep repeating myself) I recommend everyone just mask the bars - you can make a set for cheap, and putting them in place (if you take the time to make them correctly) takes all of 10 seconds. Problem solved for $30 and an hour of your time to make them.
eliocon's Avatar eliocon 09:36 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

Yea it was definitely 3D.

I don't remember if the bulb power was in Normal mode since I forget this projector actually has different settings for each viewing method. I will check it out during my lunch break (working from home today)

When I changed my input on the receiver (from blu-ray to PC), the projector changed settings as well (interesting). Seems like the projector can memorize different viewing settings for each receiver input.

Also can anyone tell me how to sync the Panasonic 3D glasses? The Samsung's sync'd automatically....the Panny's are fully charged and no clue as to what needs to be done. Thanks!

I have the Panny glasses. Just slide the power slider all the way past the on point and hold for a few seconds then release.
Justin Morgan's Avatar Justin Morgan 09:42 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

I don't know, that is why I am asking. I hear all this talk about CIH and the like, but I can't get a definitive answer on what works where.

I can't imagine that everyone is adjusting their lenses at every change in format!?!?

I have never had a projector so I am not sure what implications there are.

This article has a great overview of how CIH works. Basically if you have a 2.35:1 screen, you will "zoom in" the projector to fill that wide-aspect screen. When you zoom in, the upper/lower "black bars" that would normally be visible on a 16:9 screen spill over onto your wall, where you may or may not be able to see them. Later, when you want to watch 16:9 content, you "zoom out" so the picture fits on your wide-aspect screen, although it will left/right "black bars" on both sides since the projector isn't projecting onto that part of the screen.

Yes, each time you change formats you'll need to zoom in/out as appropriate. You'll probably also need to refocus. It's manual, so you'll need your projector to be within arm's reach. With practice this takes perhaps 30 seconds -- about the same time it takes a Blu-ray disc to load.

There are ways to automate this that make it easier. For example, the JVC projectors, Panasonic projectors, and some other brands too have a "lens memory" feature that allow you to configure multiple zoom/focus combinations. You can switch at the push of a button. That makes CIH dead simple, since you simply set a lens memory for 2:35:1 and 16:9 modes, and simply readjust your projector a button on your remote. There are also motorized "anamorphic lenses" that can be mounted in front of your projector, but those are often extremely expensive (like almost as much as a 5030 -- the 6030 is the only model with automated support for this). If you have a high ceiling mount AND use CIH then an automated solution is your only option.
joepaiii's Avatar joepaiii 09:54 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

I can answer this question. They're about the same. Even my 5030 gives grayish bars for movies shot in the 2.35 aspect ratio. This has more to do with your screen than the projector.

I realized this because my friend bought a Panny AE7000 proj, and he had a 1.1 gain screen (which actually NOW i realize was the way to go to get deeper blacks and better contrast over all). He liked my Carada 1.4 because of the pop it had. He ordered a Carada for himself, and when I went to check it out, I noticed that his $2600 proj NOW produced the same grayish bars that my $850 Epson 8350 did.

Then I realized that an 8350 has a lot of pic quality muscle if you pair it with the right screen.

I am using a Carada BW 1.4 and getting the same grayish bars above and below that my 8350 gave me.

HOWEVER the over all image is definitely better. Better colors. Sharper image, and better contrast.

What color are the walls and ceiling in your room? What about the floor and furniture? I am surprised that the 5030 and 8350 would be similar in terms of black levels. In a normal non light controlled room however it would make sense.
Cyberathlete's Avatar Cyberathlete 09:57 AM 11-15-2013
The images are def better on the 5030 (better contrast, better blacks and better pop in color). But the black bars when viewing a 2.35 format movie are not that different in my opinion. They're still grayish (but doesn't bother me). And also as I stated that the overall image is 25%-30% better on the 5030, and that's 25%-30% in all areas (Color, Contrast, Sharpness, Blacks)

Here is a link to my HT
http://www.blu-ray.com/community/gallery.php?member=CyberAthlete

The walls are all matte black, and the curtains on the right side, all absorb light.

The ceiling also has minimal reflection as I placed matte black sheets where there would be the most light hitting back from the screen.
programmergeek's Avatar programmergeek 10:03 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ix View Post

I know. Black Diamond screens are 4-5k - for the smaller ones - and have their own set of issues, starting with the fact that they "sparkle" a little in bright white scenes. If you are buying one because you want a giant screen that looks like a Plasma TV in a well lit room and you have the money then they are great. Buying them for a light-controlled theater is a different story.

Again (I know I keep repeating myself) I recommend everyone just mask the bars - you can make a set for cheap, and putting them in place (if you take the time to make them correctly) takes all of 10 seconds. Problem solved for $30 and an hour of your time to make them.

I don't like to recommend screens people have to decide what they like but any screen with gain will have sparkles the trade off is you get a screen that produces a brighter picture than a white screen. The black Diamond is better since it has a 1.4 gain and darker blacks, It also manages light scatter and rejects ambient light that in return all helps produce better blacks and more vivid colors because they are not washing out with ambient light. Also you should have a little ambient light in the room it helps your brain see blacker blacks.

I don't like to recommend screens but I have been doing this 20 years and have owned almost every screen and have in my light controlled dedicated theater a 144" 2:35 Black Diamond zero edge. It is the most impressive screen I have seen to date. But as any gain screen has sparkles on bright white scenes if you look close but not nearly as bad as most but that is the trade off of getting a brighter picture, better colors, better blacks and less wash out it is up to you to decide if it is for you. For me the quality improvement is worth it, it makes my 6030 look like a 20k projector and still has better blacks.

But a masking system is the best I totally agree.
kbarnes701's Avatar kbarnes701 10:04 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

OK guys, sorry for the ignorant question before I pull the trigger on a 5030 and a screen...

If I opt for the 2.35:1 screen, will I be able to simply project the 16:9 movie with side bars without adjusting the lens, focus, etc?

No. 

 

When you have a 2.40:1 screen, to get rid of the black bars you zoom the lens so the black bars project on the the wall (or screen surround) top and bottom.

 

If you then switch to a 16:9 content program, the top and bottom of the image will still be projecting on to the wall. So you have to zoom back to get it right. This will also leave you with black bars to the sides of the image. As others have said, if this is really important to you you would be better off with a different PJ which made life easier.


kbarnes701's Avatar kbarnes701 10:06 AM 11-15-2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ix View Post
 
Again (I know I keep repeating myself) I recommend everyone just mask the bars - you can make a set for cheap, and putting them in place (if you take the time to make them correctly) takes all of 10 seconds. Problem solved for $30 and an hour of your time to make them.

 

+1. That was my solution and it works great. 


garrettmoore's Avatar garrettmoore 10:40 AM 11-15-2013
Got my projector this morning. Unfortunately my existing Vogels mount used with my HD1000 is just too small to reach the mounting holes on the 5030. Looks like I'm going to need a new mount.

Are there 4 mounting holes, or 5? The manual only labels 4, but there are obviously 5 on the bottom -- one in each corner, and one in the front center. Is this front one meant for ceiling mounting or is it intended for something else? It looks identical to the other 4.

I need to figure out what I can pick up for a mount because I rent and need to get something that will be minimally intrusive on the ceiling.
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