Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 40 - AVS Forum
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post #1171 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by punjiman View Post

Haven't noticed any with mine.
What mode did you have the PJ in when it happened?
Actually, what movie? I might have it and if I do I'll go the image in question.

I have it in Natural / eco bulb (since this was the setting zombie said had pretty good color out of the box).

It isn't the movie as I can see the banding on a white/grey screen too. I've only tried it with my HTPC so far, connected through my Pioneer SC-07.

I haven't received my mount yet so the projector is right-side up, about 13 feet back, on a bookshelf. Once I have the mount installed I'll see if it changes.

edit to add: I see it on both HTPC and Xbox360 so I started experimenting. Since I have it temporarily on a bookshelf I'm using almost the maximum amount of lens shift horizontally and quite a bit vertically, to move the image down and left. Most of the banding is around the center-left; I can't see any at all on the extreme left and right side. Maybe it's just an artifact of a lot of lens shift?
I also think THX looks a bit better, Natural is a bit overblown and is very noticable in a web browser. THX looks more 'accurate'.

Here's an image showing it, taken from fairly close up since my cell phone has a pretty lousy camera, with an added rectangle to highlight the banding region. You can see it from seating position and it's definitely noticable in bright scenes with panning. It's a very subtle effect but it's there.

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post #1172 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 12:30 PM
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Do the 3D glasses from the Epson 5010 work with the 5030?

Do not steal, The powers that be do not like the competition.
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post #1173 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by luismanrara View Post

Do the 3D glasses from the Epson 5010 work with the 5030?

I don't think so, since the 5010's glasses are IR and the 5020 and 5030's are RF. The 5020's glasses should work though. Samsung's cheap RF glasses work really nicely with the 5020 and should also work with the 5030.
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post #1174 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 05:08 PM
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Was able to resolve most of the orange skin issue in Dynamic mode.

Tuned down Color Saturation to -7 (didn't have to adjust reds). That scaled back a lot of the excessive color in Dynamic mode. I went back and forth with THX mode and Dynamic to understand what is the PJ enhancing since if it is able to render perfectly good skin tones in THX it should so within Dynamic.

Sure enough, the biggest culprit was Color Saturation.

Now it looks even better. Definitely a noticeable diff between the 8350 and the 5030 smile.gif
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post #1175 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

Was able to resolve most of the orange skin issue in Dynamic mode.

Tuned down Color Saturation to -7 (didn't have to adjust reds). That scaled back a lot of the excessive color in Dynamic mode. I went back and forth with THX mode and Dynamic to understand what is the PJ enhancing since if it is able to render perfectly good skin tones in THX it should so within Dynamic.

Sure enough, the biggest culprit was Color Saturation.

Now it looks even better. Definitely a noticeable diff between the 8350 and the 5030 smile.gif

Glad you got this working for you. I may try it myself - what gain is your screen?
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post #1176 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ix View Post

Glad you got this working for you. I may try it myself - what gain is your screen?

So these are the settings I am using (in 2D):

Screen: 92" Carada Brilliant White (Gain 1.4)

Mode: Dynamic
Power: ECO (bulb life is affected by power, not mode smile.gif )
Color: -7 (or -8 to your liking)
Contrast: +3
Skin Tone: 4 (1 step cooler)
Color Temp: -1 (1 step warmer)

Frame Interpolation: Low (I've noticed that this normally smooths out the long and quick grand sweeping camera motions and doesn't affect most other scenes so it still maintains the film look of the movie)
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post #1177 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke61 View Post

I don't know of any vertical masking priced similarly to the Monoprice screen, but what about putting up drapes? If you want a motorized version, you could look into something like ones shown here: http://www.htmarket.com/lighting--signs--decor---carpeting-home-theater-drapes-curtain-rods.html

Good option. Does anyone have pics of a set up like this?
Thanks.
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post #1178 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 08:06 PM
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Has anyone figured out the Dish Hopper remote code that will turn the 5030 off/on?
I found one that will turn it on, one that will turn it off, but not one that will do both.
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post #1179 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 09:12 PM
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Ok, so I got a chance to watch a full movie (Man of Steel). I can
t imagine anyone complaining about this projector....I watched it in 2d and3d. The fan noise is NO PROBLEM! My HT speaekers drown it out and even in silence....not a big deal at all! The PJ is about 1.5 feet above my seating position, recessed in a specialy built inside wall shelf.... Somebody wrote that is sounded like a hair dryer in 3d....not the case...AWESOME PJ that looks better than my panasonic 60 inch plasma. Great job EPSON!
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post #1180 of 3555 Old 11-17-2013, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

I had messaged a couple of other forum members regarding the LPE filter and got crickets so thx Barsk. I emailed winnings to see what it would cost to import one into the US for anyone curious about experimenting. It's 99 euros and shipping is 39 euros.

Actually what I heard from winnings.de (I asked them) was that the price was 99 euros for the LPE filter and 49 euros for shipping to the U.S and 29 euros for shipping withing the EU. But maybe it is possible to negotiate...
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post #1181 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 03:00 AM
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Some people here are new to projectors. Did you all get the Mack bulb warranty also? Even though I am getting the 6030 I am still debating on getting the bulb warranty. I had it on my 8500ub and got a bulb out of it.

My experience with Mackcam Warranties. Projector sent with HDMI issue, returned with Lens damage. Still no ETA. 6 Months waiting to date. Sporadic response from CS. Stated it was sent to Epson, but was sent to another repair shop.
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post #1182 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 05:08 AM
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I had DroptheRemote come out and calibrate my 5030 on my Black Diamond. It was WAY off. There was no way I could tune it with the Wow or S&M blue ray.

The picture now looks absolutely stunning!

Just learning..
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post #1183 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fortwalton74 View Post

Hey guys would love your opinion. Today I have a Epson 1080UB and I am considering upgrading to the 5030 or the newly discounted 5020. I project this on a 110" screen...my HDMI 1.2 is inwall today

Questions...

- should I upgrade to one of these 5020/5030

- Is their a noticeable difference between the two...per this thread looks like the contrast is about 25% better...is that it?

- Will I have to rerun/inwall a new HDMI 1.3 for the 3D or can I stick with my 1.2 any issues here?

HELP...I use this 50% gaming....50% movies

I upgraded from a 6500 to a 5010 and it was a significant upgrade - definitely worth it to me.
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post #1184 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

Picked up the following from Best Buy today for a total of $2690 (after taxes)

  • Epson 5030 UB
  • 4 pairs of Samsung 3D glasses (4100G) [Sync'd easily]
  • 4 pairs of Panasonic (TY-ER3D4MU) [Can anyone help me with syncing these with the projector?]


I guess it helps having been a customer of the same Best Buy for 7 years (and having always treated every single employee with respect, even at times when they didn't come through smile.gif )

Just set it up and tested out a few movies.

Set up the following settings:
Mode: Dynamic (I like bright images with a lot of pop) (default Cinema)
Power: ECO (always) (default normal)
Sharpness: +2 (default 0)
Contrast: +3 (default 0)
Skin Tone: 5 (default 4)


I went from the 8350 (had it for exactly 2 years) to the 5030

First impressions:
Image is def sharper. Colors pop more, blacks are better but no way a night and day difference (prob has something to do with the Carada BW 1.4 gain screen). Colors do tend to push reds a bit more.

Image seems to have some depth to it, more so than 8350 but to be honest, the 8350 seriously holds its own. I bought the 8350 for $850 after taxes (Black Friday 2 years ago) and I still think it's worth every penny. And realize that even though the 5030 has an overall better image, it is by no means 3x better (or even 2x as better). I think it's averaging out to be around 25%-30% better than the 8350.

3D looks great. You def lose a noticeable amount of light when viewing in 3D (when watching on the same video setting, eg comparing Dynamic 2D vs 3D). The image is still bright enough to enjoy the movie. However 3D when viewed in Dynamic, looks just as bright, if not brighter, watching a 2D movie in THX or Cinema mode. So when the reviewer said that you can finally watch 3D in Dynamic mode and get the same amount of brightness as a 2D movie in THX/Cinema mode, he wasn't exaggerating.

Gaming (through a HTPC):
Batman Arkham Origins - very very very subtle lag (compared to the 8350, where I could detect no lag at all) but nothing to break the casual gameplay. May not suitable for competitive gaming but for general gaming it works just fine. Again, it's very very subtle and you can only notice it if you've been gaming on something that has given you almost no lag/delay at all. I am a hardcore gamer (used to compete nationally in UT a decade ago) and I'm pleased with it. So you shouldn't have anything to worry about (this was my biggest concern since I spend 60% of my time gaming in my HT).

Off to bed, will do more tests tomorrow (and finally watch Pacific Rim 3D. Had been putting that off once I heard the 5030 was coming out and I knew that I would be upgrading).

Can someone please help me on how to sync the Panasonic glasses. Thanks!

To you and other users, do you notice the subtle blur in fast mode while gaming?
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post #1185 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 08:39 AM
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Can someone give some reasons for why the 5030UB in 3D would be better than the Benq W7000 since it also has frame interpolation with no ghosting(crosstalks)... Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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post #1186 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viche View Post

To you and other users, do you notice the subtle blur in fast mode while gaming?

I didn't try that since the regular mode was acceptable when it came to lag i didn't bother with Fast mode.
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post #1187 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by urbeenjammin View Post

Can someone give some reasons for why the 5030UB in 3D would be better than the Benq W7000 since it also has frame interpolation with no ghosting(crosstalks)... Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Better blacks? Better contrast? Brighter 3D images? 2x as long bulb life? Compatibility with other RF glasses?
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post #1188 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 08:56 AM
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For those of you getting Best Buy to come down on the price and throw things in, is that like pulling teeth there or was it relatively easy?
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post #1189 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 09:13 AM
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What I've notice at BB it's all about the store manager. There is one store close to me where the manager will deal with you but others sometimes. eek.gif

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post #1190 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by nickoakdl View Post

For those of you getting Best Buy to come down on the price and throw things in, is that like pulling teeth there or was it relatively easy?

I've been shopping at my Best Buy for 7 years. And I've been a Silver Elite member for the last 4 (so they know that they have my business)

That's it.

If you're going to randomly walk into a Best Buy and don't have any "allegiance" to a particular store then it's all up to the manager.
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post #1191 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 09:48 AM
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I'm an elite plus member and was given 10% off on the projector. What other deals are you guys getting?

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post #1192 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by flyguyjake View Post

I'm an elite plus member and was given 10% off on the projector. What other deals are you guys getting?

10% off the PJ + 10 pairs of 3D glasses for $200

5x Samsung G5100
5x Panasonic TY-ER3D4MU
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post #1193 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 11:33 AM
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Can anybody coming from a 5020UB to a 5030UB verify if the crosstalks are identical between the 2 units. I recall the 5020UB having some issues with some of the 3D blu rays I watched.
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post #1194 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urbeenjammin View Post

Can anybody coming from a 5020UB to a 5030UB verify if the crosstalks are identical between the 2 units. I recall the 5020UB having some issues with some of the 3D blu rays I watched.

Crosstalk appears to be the same in my eyes from the 5020 to the 5030. But in saying that, I never had an issue with crosstalk on my 5020. It was mainly noticeable when I kept the 3D glasses brightness on high, but it was very rare and never to the extremes of the Panasonic 8000 I had. The main difference you will notice coming rom the 5020 to the 5030 is much better motion with the FI now being selectable, better sharpness and more crisp with the Super Resolution being available and also better colors and black levels. Brightness seems to be the same, maybe maringally improved.

When you throw those factors into to the mix, along with what I believe to be very good crosstalk and ghosting performance for a non dlp projector (granted, the most hours I've put on any of these projectors was under 100. I've heard the crosstalk and ghosting could get worse as the bulb ages) It's a huge 3D winner in my book.
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post #1195 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 12:11 PM
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So I'm trying to decide if having my Epson 5030 would benefit from being ceiling mounted as opposed to my current shelf mount setup. The Epson sits about 17-18ft away from my Elite Screens EZ Frame 1.1 gain screen. I think I can get the projector close to 10 or 11 ft if I ceiling mount it. I'm definitely not having issues with the brightness performance but every little bit in 3D would be appreciated.

My main reason for wanting to ceiling mount is having a uniformly sharp and in focus image. I'm having issues getting the picture completely in focus in its entirety. When I get it perfectly sharp in the center, the right hand or left hand side will be a little blurry. I've gotten it dialed in the best I can, but it's never perfect. Maybe I've heard wrong but I'm under the impression that the closer you have the projector to the screen and the less lens shift being used, the less focus issues the projector will have.

I have someone coming out on Wednesday and for the mount and all, it's going to cost around $300. I'm nervous because I'm not sure the ceiling mount will make a $300 difference and I might cancel before then. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

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post #1196 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So I'm trying to decide if having my Epson 5030 would benefit from being ceiling mounted as opposed to my current shelf mount setup. The Epson sits about 17-18ft away from my Elite Screens EZ Frame 1.1 gain screen. I think I can get the projector close to 10 or 11 ft if I ceiling mount it. I'm definitely not having issues with the brightness performance but every little bit in 3D would be appreciated.

My main reason for wanting to ceiling mount is having a uniformly sharp and in focus image. I'm having issues getting the picture completely in focus in its entirety. When I get it perfectly sharp in the center, the right hand or left hand side will be a little blurry. I've gotten it dialed in the best I can, but it's never perfect. Maybe I've heard wrong but I'm under the impression that the closer you have the projector to the screen and the less lens shift being used, the less focus issues the projector will have.

I have someone coming out on Wednesday and for the mount and all, it's going to cost around $300. I'm nervous because I'm not sure the ceiling mount will make a $300 difference and I might cancel before then. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

 

I’d recommend the Peerless Precision Universal mount - like this:

 

It has millimetric adjustments in all planes and makes setup of the PJ a snap. I use mine with a 3 inch extension pole, not because I need the extension especially, but because it also allows for minute adjustments (by turning the mount in the thread) and once in position can be locked into place with a locking screw. This means the mount has minute adjustments possible in all three planes, all of which can be locked down once you are all set. It is also incredibly well made.



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post #1197 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So I'm trying to decide if having my Epson 5030 would benefit from being ceiling mounted as opposed to my current shelf mount setup. The Epson sits about 17-18ft away from my Elite Screens EZ Frame 1.1 gain screen. I think I can get the projector close to 10 or 11 ft if I ceiling mount it. I'm definitely not having issues with the brightness performance but every little bit in 3D would be appreciated.

My main reason for wanting to ceiling mount is having a uniformly sharp and in focus image. I'm having issues getting the picture completely in focus in its entirety. When I get it perfectly sharp in the center, the right hand or left hand side will be a little blurry. I've gotten it dialed in the best I can, but it's never perfect. Maybe I've heard wrong but I'm under the impression that the closer you have the projector to the screen and the less lens shift being used, the less focus issues the projector will have.

I have someone coming out on Wednesday and for the mount and all, it's going to cost around $300. I'm nervous because I'm not sure the ceiling mount will make a $300 difference and I might cancel before then. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

1) moving it 6 feet should make a noticeable difference in brightness. Also the farther you are from the screen the harder it is to determine the perfect focus. I usually have one of my friends rotate the focus ring while i stand next to the screen and tell him to stop when what I think what we have achieved is the best focus.

2) You never calibrate focus based on the dead center of the screen. You focus off center. I would focus on the space between the center and one of the sides so you get a more uniform sharpness/focus.
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post #1198 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

I’d recommend the Peerless Precision Universal mount - like this:



It has millimetric adjustments in all planes and makes setup of the PJ a snap. I use mine with a 3 inch extension pole, not because I need the extension especially, but because it also allows for minute adjustments (by turning the mount in the thread) and once in position can be locked into place with a locking screw. This means the mount has minute adjustments possible in all three planes, all of which can be locked down once you are all set. It is also incredibly well made.

That mount looks fantastic. Adding it to my list. thx.


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post #1199 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 12:47 PM
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You mention crosstalk "was mainly noticeable when I kept the 3D glasses brightness on high". Do you have Epson's RF 3D Glasses, and, if so do they have a brightness level control? I didn't notice a setting other than sync and power.

I currently have a 5020, and crosstalk and convergence have been my two main issues with this projector. I am considering the 5030, but would really love feedback on whether these two issues have improved from the 5020 to 5030 - especially 3D crosstalk.
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post #1200 of 3555 Old 11-18-2013, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

1) moving it 6 feet should make a noticeable difference in brightness. Also the farther you are from the screen the harder it is to determine the perfect focus. I usually have one of my friends rotate the focus ring while i stand next to the screen and tell him to stop when what I think what we have achieved is the best focus.

2) You never calibrate focus based on the dead center of the screen. You focus off center. I would focus on the space between the center and one of the sides so you get a more uniform sharpness/focus.

Thanks for the info. You pretty much just made up my mind that mounting it closer will be the way to go. One thing I've noticed with this projector be with others is that I have to adjust the focus sometimes even after I seemed to have found the sweet spot. What causes this? Is that due to having it shelf mounted?

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