Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 43 - AVS Forum
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post #1261 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KUV1977 View Post

I just read your Home Theater Thread and if people think your projector is barely audible in high lamp mode in Star Trek Second Chapter then you are really lucky, because even though there is faded music the fan is so loud that it is clearly stronger than the music. It really drowns out low key sound effects too.

I wouldn't know how to build a hushbox for this projector in my circumstances. I also bough a peerless mount which runs 150€ here. Kind of wasted money if I go hushbox. Plus I really tend to consider them rather ugly in a living room situation.

Have you considered that your projector may be defective?
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post #1262 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 07:56 AM
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I have, but when other people complain about noise too and cyberathlete measured 50db which sound pretty much what I would rate it, I think the problem is in design and probably the proximity I have to the device while watching. Also it is really nicely quiet in 2D.
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post #1263 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

OK guys, about to pull the trigger on a 5030 and screen...first for both!
I got some great price quotes using the projector central "Request a Quote" feature!


I can't really find any high gain screens that are affordable (say ~$1000 or less). So, I was going to pick up a VAPEX 106" tab-tensioned screen. Fixed screen is not an option.
The reasons are:

* wireless trigger
* black case
* small case
* price

The gain is only 1.1.

I am planning on ceiling mounting at a level roughly equal to the height of the top of the view-able area on the 106" screen.
The PJ will be mounted at 15' away above the seating area. I want to keep it out of the way of heads.

Here is the question:

Am I going to have enough brightness? Shelf mounting is not an option and I really can't lower the PJ any further.



I strongly considered the Da-Lite Cosmo High Power 2.4 Screen but was told that since the PJ is not shelf mounted (and on the same plane with the screen) that the HP screen would not be effective.mad.gif
Plus, the case is so large and you have to pay for everything ala-carte, ala trigger, adjustable mounting brackets, black case, etc. etc....and I was afraid of future waves.


Anyone?

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post #1264 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 08:32 AM
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Hello Everyone, long time reader first time poster.  I am currently in the process of finishing my basement and making a "media room" as it will not be a dedicated theatre only.  Anyhow, long story short, I bought the epson 5030 and even just projecting on my ICS styrofoam insulated wall, it looks amazing.

 

I purchased a 120" 1.1 gain screen and I was going to build a screen wall to fit it.  I was avoiding installing the screen until the wall is built and some more of the construction is done.  My questiuon/dilemma came into play when I zoom out the focus and get a much larger image.  It is damn impressive making me want a larger screen.  So, my room is 28' deep and the projector can go pretty much anywhere right now.  Seating will be around the 15' mark.  How big is too big?  If I decide to go bigger I was going to go DIY and make an AT screen from SeymourAV.  Mind you at the moment I cannot tell the minor imperfections on the larger image since the styrofoam it is projected on has so many imprefections already so maybe there would be too much SDE or other issues at larger sizes.  Thoughts?  Thanks

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post #1265 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viche View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KUV1977 View Post

I just read your Home Theater Thread and if people think your projector is barely audible in high lamp mode in Star Trek Second Chapter then you are really lucky, because even though there is faded music the fan is so loud that it is clearly stronger than the music. It really drowns out low key sound effects too.

I wouldn't know how to build a hushbox for this projector in my circumstances. I also bough a peerless mount which runs 150€ here. Kind of wasted money if I go hushbox. Plus I really tend to consider them rather ugly in a living room situation.

Have you considered that your projector may be defective?

 

I think something is wrong if the PJ can be heard drowning out sound effects. Unless they are listening at -40dB of course ;)

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post #1266 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Anyone?
It should be fine as long as you're going to control the room lighting.
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post #1267 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 11:10 AM
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Hi -
I went ahead and ordered the LPE Filter for Epson EH-TW9200W/5030UB (cine4home.de) from winnings.de today. I am having a professional calibration performed after I receive the filter. I used a filter from cine4home on my Sanyo Z2000 and was very please with the results so I'm going to go that way again. Will let you know how it goes.
thanks
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post #1268 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KUV1977 View Post

I just read your Home Theater Thread and if people think your projector is barely audible in high lamp mode in Star Trek Second Chapter then you are really lucky, because even though there is faded music the fan is so loud that it is clearly stronger than the music. It really drowns out low key sound effects too.

I wouldn't know how to build a hushbox for this projector in my circumstances. I also bough a peerless mount which runs 150€ here. Kind of wasted money if I go hushbox. Plus I really tend to consider them rather ugly in a living room situation.

Does the 5030 have a high altitude mode? The Epson 8700 does. I think high altitude mode runs the fan at a higher speed. I run mine in high altitude mode to keep the bulb cooler. It's also louder. Also, there are sound meter phone apps you can download to test how many decibles you are getting from the fan.
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post #1269 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 01:06 PM
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Yes, 5030 has high altitude mode and yes it runs the fan harder, meaning more air flow and more noise.

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post #1270 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blbrchnk View Post

Hello Everyone, long time reader first time poster.  I am currently in the process of finishing my basement and making a "media room" as it will not be a dedicated theatre only.  Anyhow, long story short, I bought the epson 5030 and even just projecting on my ICS styrofoam insulated wall, it looks amazing.

I purchased a 120" 1.1 gain screen and I was going to build a screen wall to fit it.  I was avoiding installing the screen until the wall is built and some more of the construction is done.  My questiuon/dilemma came into play when I zoom out the focus and get a much larger image.  It is damn impressive making me want a larger screen.  So, my room is 28' deep and the projector can go pretty much anywhere right now.  Seating will be around the 15' mark.  How big is too big?  If I decide to go bigger I was going to go DIY and make an AT screen from SeymourAV.  Mind you at the moment I cannot tell the minor imperfections on the larger image since the styrofoam it is projected on has so many imprefections already so maybe there would be too much SDE or other issues at larger sizes.  Thoughts?  Thanks

120 inch 16:9 is a good size for impact at your viewing distance any bigger I would be concerned of image quality from source signal unless source is Bluray.

I made custom blackout panels can do 120 inch 16:9 and when watching 2.35:1 can go larger than size 2.35:1 is displayed within 16:9 120 inch which is too small for me. My 2.35:1 image is 53 inches tall by 127 inches wide surrounded by black masking panels I made.
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post #1271 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 02:04 PM
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I just pulled the trigger! Sheesh, I hope I like this pricey venture into the projector realm of HT.eek.gif

I should have plenty of time to sort things out over the Thanksgiving holiday.

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post #1272 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberathlete View Post

Let me end this debate right now. I have a sound meter in my android based phone and this is the reading in 3D mode: 67 dB. Note that is the volume when the mic is right in front of the front vent, which is where the loudest fan noise comes from.

From where I was seated it was around 50dB-52dB depending on the seat

First, I doubt that Epson was claiming 32 dB right up against the vents. That's extremely unrealistic. It would be good to know how they measured it though. And I'm pretty sure the 32 dB spec is for high power, not eco mode. On their website, Epson claims fan noise of 22 - 32 dB. I have to assume that is 22 dB in eco and 32 dB in high power.

Second, I wouldn't be trusting an Android-based app using the phone's mic unless it's been calibrated. Phone mics are all over the map I would imagine.

Third, what does your Android app measure when the projector is off, versus when it is on?

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post #1273 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 02:33 PM
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High Altitude is off. I also used an app but I am sure my phone is not really good for such things. It shows around 30db but it also shows 0db in normal mode and I am pretty sure that it is more than zero even if very quiet. I have other tech components that are rated at about 32db and I can hear them in a silent room but not over any movie, no matter how quiet a passage is. The Eposn is definitely louder than anything I have here.

This afternoon I watched World War Z 3D with pretty loud audio and apart from very few passages it was not noticeable. The moments it was noticeable were ok. Now I just need to test out the limits in volume that my neighbors are willing to take at night. I think the isolation in this building is pretty good but a while back I was watching Lost clearly too loud for them.
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post #1274 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 02:44 PM
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There is some ambient noise of vents and stuff in the basement so that's why i put the mic against the vent to capture as much noise coming from the projector.

The ambient noise measures around 40dB when the central heating is turned on. I will check again when it is turned off.
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post #1275 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KUV1977 View Post

High Altitude is off. I also used an app but I am sure my phone is not really good for such things. It shows around 30db but it also shows 0db in normal mode and I am pretty sure that it is more than zero even if very quiet. I have other tech components that are rated at about 32db and I can hear them in a silent room but not over any movie, no matter how quiet a passage is. The Eposn is definitely louder than anything I have here.

This afternoon I watched World War Z 3D with pretty loud audio and apart from very few passages it was not noticeable. The moments it was noticeable were ok. Now I just need to test out the limits in volume that my neighbors are willing to take at night. I think the isolation in this building is pretty good but a while back I was watching Lost clearly too loud for them.

 

Neighbours in close proximity is the worst for a home theater nut.  Well, there is one thing worse... waiting for your projector to come in! :D

 

 

Thanks for taking those measurements Cyberathlete.  How far away are your seating positions?


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post #1276 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 07:30 PM
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Hi all,

Well, my 5030UB just came in today. I replaced my 1080UB I bought 5 years ago.

First Impression, is I am impressed. I recalibrated the black & contrast levels. The blacks were almost spot on out of the box. The whites(Contrast) were a bit off. I have not done anything with the color levels yet. Picture looked fantastic on the Blu ray Hunger Games.

I am projecting the image on to a 150" 2.35:1 cinemascope 1(no gain) screen and using the zoom method, so even losing 25%+ of the light, it still is a light cannon. I could only image it with a A lens instead of zooming would really impress.

The noise in bright mode level on my machine as 42db. Seriously only on a extremely quiet scene did I even notice the fan. 42db is almost nothing, If you ever get a chance to use a db meter, you can blow on it and it reads that. Well plus with my 900w SVS sub rocking my theater, I could care less on the small fan noise. Normal brightness mode blew away my old projector and even with lights on in my theater, the pictuce still looked decent.

Ill post more later as I get into the 30-40 hour range and start to adjust the color levels, etc

All in all, is it worth $2599, absolutely!!

One last thing, I like the more beefy look of the 5030 smile.gif and the power cover for the lens when off is nice

Steve

If you buy it, USE IT!!!!
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post #1277 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveFred View Post

Hi all,

Well, my 5030UB just came in today. I replaced my 1080UB I bought 5 years ago.

First Impression, is I am impressed. I recalibrated the black & contrast levels. The blacks were almost spot on out of the box. The whites(Contrast) were a bit off. I have not done anything with the color levels yet. Picture looked fantastic the the Blu ray Hunger Games.

I am projecting the image on to a 150" 2.35:1 cinemascope 1(no gain) screen and using the zoom method, so even losing 25%+ of the light, it still is a light cannon. I could only image it with a A lens instead of zooming would really impress.

The noise in bright mode level on my machine as 42db. Seriously only on a extremely quiet scene did I even notice the fan. 41db is almost nothing, If you ever get a chance to use a db meter, you can blow on it and it reads that. Well plus with my 900w SVS sub rocking my theater, I could care less on the small fan noise. Normal brightness mode blew away my old projector and even with lights on in my theater, the pictuce still looked decent.

Ill post more later as I get into the 30-40 hour range and start to adjust the color levels, etc

All in all, is it worth $2599, absolutely!!

One last thing, I like the more beefy look of the 5030 smile.gif and the power cover for the lens when off is nice

Steve



Nice very nice indeed nice buy...........................i want one but i wish they would offer a black Friday deal.
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post #1278 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by crussell1492 View Post

Hi -
I went ahead and ordered the LPE Filter for Epson EH-TW9200W/5030UB (cine4home.de) from winnings.de today. I am having a professional calibration performed after I receive the filter. I used a filter from cine4home on my Sanyo Z2000 and was very please with the results so I'm going to go that way again. Will let you know how it goes.
thanks

can you provide a link to the filter?
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post #1279 of 3483 Old 11-21-2013, 08:17 PM
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You can read the article from the outfit that makes the filter here : http://www.cine4home.de/, look for the article on the Epson EH-TW9200(W)
, for some reason I cant link directly to the article.

I purchased the filter from winnings.de http://www.winnings.de/Projektoren-u-Beamer/Epson/Epson-Full-HD-3D/Epson-EH-TW9100W-LPE-Full-HD-3D-Projektor.html
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post #1280 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 12:12 AM
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can you provide a link to the filter?

The filter is not a standard item on the website. You need to contact them by email: info at winnings.de

Link to the review mentioned above at cine4home.de in this post.
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post #1281 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by willymo View Post

Can someone who's had their 5030 professionally calibrated make specific comments on the end result?

Are the black levels much better?

Is the picture sharper/cleaner than before?

Do the colors appear more accurate and "pop"?

I will have mine calibrated next month and am curious as to how much better can it get.
I calibrate with my own gear and have some experience with the calibration process. The black level is not something you can improve with calibration, it is the hardware of you PJ that sets the bottom limit. Although you can dial in (with brightness control) at what level the videl should be displayed at so the video level black matches exactly the level 16 in the standard blackness pattern. When set properly video levels will display black correctly by not crushing black nor washing them out by making them too gray. This is not done with a probe, it is done by eye so anyone can do this step easily at home. Just download the AVSHD 709 patterns disk or similar. Same with white level. Set contrast by eye so that the white level indicated in the pattern is not clipped. Again with just a pattern disk.

Grayscale tracking affect the cleanliness of the grays and the color temperature. The standard here is D65, i.e 6500 Kelvin. This is a very important part of calibration to get this as good as possible. If wrong it will skew colors as well. It is done with a probe and proper software. This cannot be done by eye.

The next thing is to set gamma correctly and this is also done with a probe and proper software. This cannot be done by eye. The gamma is how luminosity increases with increasing stimulus. Different gamma curves (2.2, 2.4 etc) afffects how bright a image should be in the shadows and in the highlights. A higher gamma will yield darker shadows that will work well in dark rooms Lower gamma equals brighter shadows and works well in brighter rooms. Video is recorded with a standard gamma curve and it is essential that the display mimics this exactly so we don't get uneven "steps" in brightness. That will show as banding or posterization issues and will cause smooth gradients to display poorly. As gamma deals with brightness it affects the perception of blackness directly. Poorly calibrated the shadows can bee to deep (crushed) or too shallow giving washed out gray. Gamma also affects the perceived contrast. Especially a higher gamma can make the image "pop" more if the room admits it. But it should never be allowed to crush blacks.

Color decoding and calibration is next as color is set to produce the REC 709 standard gamut. Each primary and secondary color is dialled in to set the exact level of lightness, hue and saturation due to the standard.

All in all you should not expect better blacks as that is native to the PJ, but you should expect better shadows, and gamma tracking in general. And perfect grayscale and colors. All these things in combination is what makes an image "pop". Get one of them wrong and the picture will work well in some situations but only so-so in others...

From what I have heard calibrating the 5030/9200 should be easy and yield excellent results. I expect to get my own TW9200 next week. I'll know more then for sure. smile.gif
Best of luck with your pro calibration!
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post #1282 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Barsk View Post

The filter is not a standard item on the website. You need to contact them by email: info at winnings.de

Link to the review mentioned above at cine4home.de in this post.

Before i contact them,how much is the filter?
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post #1283 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 03:32 AM
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Greetings all...

Thinking about pulling the trigger on a 5030, specifically the 5030UBE. Can anyone tell me if the wireless HD feature in the UBE model displays as good a picture as the regular UB model?

Thanks so much!
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post #1284 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 04:03 AM
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yesI can ask my dealer, who seems to have regular contact with the Epson Rep in the UK, if anamorphic stretch is included in the new model.thanks ,

qhWv

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post #1285 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mikethewxguy View Post

Greetings all...

Thinking about pulling the trigger on a 5030, specifically the 5030UBE. Can anyone tell me if the wireless HD feature in the UBE model displays as good a picture as the regular UB model?

Thanks so much!

Several reviewers stated that they could not see any discernible difference when using the wireless feature.

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post #1286 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mikethewxguy View Post

Greetings all...

Thinking about pulling the trigger on a 5030, specifically the 5030UBE. Can anyone tell me if the wireless HD feature in the UBE model displays as good a picture as the regular UB model?

Thanks so much!

 

You might also consider this instead of the UBE model:

 

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-GW3DHDKIT-Wireless-Digital-Channel/dp/B00630WKGI

 

It works out cheaper and means you can use it in any future setups too, where the UBE costs more and ties you in to that one PJ. Just a thought.

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post #1287 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 06:59 AM
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Finally got around to some real live action 3D, had my first movie night with a bunch of friends from work come over to watch the Hobbit (the only live action shot in 3D I have so far). Wow and wow. Watched in THX mode, calibrated with the S&M disc. Plenty bright. I think, even in the dark scenes, the director paid attention to lighting specifically for 3D. Important characters/elements always had some kind of direct lighting, or backlighting enough to define their outlines- so there was always enough light for 3D (as opposed to the Avengers, for example, where some scenes at the beginning they are just too dark to really be watchable in 3D IMHO).

Anyways, everyone said it was the best 3D they had seen. One guy almost didn't come because he always gets motion sick with 3D- no so last night- and that's during a 3+ hour movie.

I did feel kinda bad, the guy who bought my 8500 came over, I think he's wanting 3D now...

The fan was noticable to me one time during a quiet scene, and I'm pretty sensitive to it. Otherwise we cranked the volume up and got lost in the movie. I will say, after the first hour or so I quit paying attention to the 3D effects and just let myself get immersed in the movie- it was simply amazing. Felt like I was there, but without the soap opera effect (I did have FI on low).

Anyways, it proved to me that 1)THX cinema 3D mode is plenty bright, for well made 3D movies. 2) The fan is only an issue for really quiet material and only when it's on 3D or high lamp (sits directly above my seating position, 8' ceilings). 3) This PJ rocks.

BTW I calibrated 3D settings with the S&M disc, haven't tried 3D dynamic yet for comparison, but I was very happy with the colors/blacks during the movie last night.

I don't have a way to fine tune individual colors (ie no color meter). But I did use the gain for each color against the individual color contrast menus on the advanced video portion of the disc. Greens were getting WAY crushed in dynamic mode and had to be turned down to the tune of -12 gain. Does that seem excessive?
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post #1288 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by urbeenjammin View Post

Before i contact them,how much is the filter?
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post #1289 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 08:07 AM
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its 139 EU, about $180 including shipping
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post #1290 of 3483 Old 11-22-2013, 09:22 AM
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Finally got around to some real live action 3D, had my first movie night with a bunch of friends from work come over to watch the Hobbit (the only live action shot in 3D I have so far). Wow and wow. Watched in THX mode, calibrated with the S&M disc. Plenty bright. I think, even in the dark scenes, the director paid attention to lighting specifically for 3D. Important characters/elements always had some kind of direct lighting, or backlighting enough to define their outlines- so there was always enough light for 3D (as opposed to the Avengers, for example, where some scenes at the beginning they are just too dark to really be watchable in 3D IMHO).

Anyways, everyone said it was the best 3D they had seen. One guy almost didn't come because he always gets motion sick with 3D- no so last night- and that's during a 3+ hour movie.

I did feel kinda bad, the guy who bought my 8500 came over, I think he's wanting 3D now...

The fan was noticable to me one time during a quiet scene, and I'm pretty sensitive to it. Otherwise we cranked the volume up and got lost in the movie. I will say, after the first hour or so I quit paying attention to the 3D effects and just let myself get immersed in the movie- it was simply amazing. Felt like I was there, but without the soap opera effect (I did have FI on low).

Anyways, it proved to me that 1)THX cinema 3D mode is plenty bright, for well made 3D movies. 2) The fan is only an issue for really quiet material and only when it's on 3D or high lamp (sits directly above my seating position, 8' ceilings). 3) This PJ rocks.

BTW I calibrated 3D settings with the S&M disc, haven't tried 3D dynamic yet for comparison, but I was very happy with the colors/blacks during the movie last night.

I don't have a way to fine tune individual colors (ie no color meter). But I did use the gain for each color against the individual color contrast menus on the advanced video portion of the disc. Greens were getting WAY crushed in dynamic mode and had to be turned down to the tune of -12 gain. Does that seem excessive?

Luminance is most affected by green. Lower budget projectors (like business class or lower end HT ones) push green a lot to increase brightness. I had to turn the gain for green way down on my optoma gt750. I'm not surprised that dynamic mode would have a lot of green in it compared to other more natural modes.

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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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