Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 64 - AVS Forum
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post #1891 of 3867 Old 12-26-2013, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rgrele View Post

Has anyone used the Darbee Darblet with the Epson 5030 or 5020, and will it help to hide SDE (Screen Door Effect) when viewing on a +/- 120" diag. screen at close distances (8' -12')?

I am using a Darblet with my 5030. I am using an 88" screen at about 10 feet, with no noticeable SDE, so I can't speak to it helping with that. I can't imagine it would though, as it essentially acts as an edge sharpener. It works on the clarity of the image, but doesn't change how the projector sends light. I'd be happy to sit close to my screen tonight and see what kind of difference the image adjustment pre and post darbee makes and let you know.
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post #1892 of 3867 Old 12-26-2013, 07:34 PM
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might get one of these over the summer but i was wondering; is the 5030 good projector for a bedroom setup with a 80"-100" screen, depending of space, that at some point(ie. move out of parent's house in a few years when i finish school) will be moved into a living room? i was also looking at the 4030 that is pretty much the same price if that is relevant.

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post #1893 of 3867 Old 12-26-2013, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by swarm87 View Post

might get one of these over the summer but i was wondering; is the 5030 good projector for a bedroom setup with a 80"-100" screen, depending of space, that at some point(ie. move out of parent's house in a few years when i finish school) will be moved into a living room? i was also looking at the 4030 that is pretty much the same price if that is relevant.

The 5030 can handle ambient light with living room mode. Make sure you get a screen gain that is appropriate for your room.

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post #1894 of 3867 Old 12-26-2013, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexanderDelarg View Post

The 5030 can handle ambient light with living room mode. Make sure you get a screen gain that is appropriate for your room.

goodie more research; was planning on going with a cheap elite screens pulldown while its in the bedroom(only come in 1.1 gain) then upgrading to a black diamond when the space and funds become available

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post #1895 of 3867 Old 12-26-2013, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrele View Post

Has anyone used the Darbee Darblet with the Epson 5030 or 5020, and will it help to hide SDE (Screen Door Effect) when viewing on a +/- 120" diag. screen at close distances (8' -12')?

I was using the Darblet with the 5030 and it didn't help my SDE.
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post #1896 of 3867 Old 12-26-2013, 10:23 PM
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Hi folks...
Short time lurker (i just found this place!), first time poster...

I made the plunge to buy a projector so i could have the "giant screen" that I deserve to watch hockey (and other stuff, i guess) on.....

After reading ALOT of pages of these forums FULL of priceless information, i decided on an Epson 5030.

Bought it. It was delivered. "Gifted" to me by the wife yesterday. Breathlessly plugged in and fired up tonight (well, this morning, it's about quarter after midnight) only to be really disappointed...

I get no lamp and the flashing blue / flashing orange lights that spell big trouble.
According to the manual, power down, unplug and contact Epson are the next steps....

Which i plan do do when The Epson hotline opens up for me tomorrow at 8am my time...

The question i have is - other folks who have experienced this right out of the box, what was the outcome?
I mean, is "return it. It's broken" the most common outcome, or is "try this and it should fix it"?

I appreciate any response from those who have had a similar experience... I'll see if a little Founders Backwoods Bastard will make me feel any better, but i doubt it...

Thanks much,
-Dave
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post #1897 of 3867 Old 12-26-2013, 11:05 PM
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The attic above the second floor in my house is finished out leaving me a long rectangular room about 35ft long x 13ft wide with 7'10" ceilings. The stairs come up and cut this room just over halfway leaving me with a home theater area that is 19ft x 13ft. I will put a sofa at about 15ft, not too close to stairwall soffet or I'm afraid the kids will fall backwards from the sofa. In any case, my question has to do with placement--I want to go with a 120" screen and ceiling mount the projector at about the 19ft distance from the screen so that it's behind the couch and not straight overhead. Manual zoom I know will make the picture fit on the screen but is there a discernable difference in brightness or picture quality with it mounted this far back? I'm concerned about noise or just simply noticing it overhead. The manual seems to indicate it could be installed as far back as 25ft but I have to believe it would be pretty dim by that point. The few windows will be covered with blackout curtains and I'll be primarily watching during the evening anyway. What is the real limit on distance before the picture starts to suffer? Anyone have theirs mounted this far back?
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post #1898 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

You don't need a 3D-compatible AVR to get 3D.  Send the video from your 3D BD player direct to the display. Send audio from the BD player to the AVR via SPDIF (toslink or coax). You will lose HD sound codecs like TrueHD but that is a price worth paying to get the 3D I'd think - the lossless codecs aren't a massive step-up from the lossy codecs (most of what is lost is noise).  Alternatively some BD players these days have two HDMI outputs - one for video and another for sound, in which case you get 3D AND the lossless codecs.

Personally, I'd hate to give up HD audio for all Blu-ray movies and listen only to the lossy codecs. Depending on the AVR and speakers of course, giving up HD audio can mean giving up a lot more than just noise. The only way for the OP to know is to experiment and determine how much difference he hears, then figure out how to proceed (and perhaps how much more money he wants to spend biggrin.gif ).

 

Yes, it is up to the OP in the end to decide where the priorities lie.  The difference between the lossless and lossy codecs really is mostly the elimination of just noise - this is noise in the codec and has nothing to do with the AVR or speakers.  Dolby Digital 5.1 and TrueHD are very close in final SQ because most of the difference is just noise and the human brain is very good at eliminating noise all by itself. This has been proven in various objective tests, but the tests themselves show a bigger difference between the two than actually exists, simply because noise shows up more to measuring equipment than it does to the brain.

 

I did try to find the relevant posts on this here on AVS but the Search facility is so weak I couldn't locate them. If you want to try, search for posts made by FilmMixer (a professional sound mixer in Hollywood) and lossless codecs.

 

Note that I am not saying there is no difference between lossless and lossy - just that the difference isn't all that massive and in the OP's case could easily be overshadowed by his desire for 3D.  Ideally he would have 3D AND lossless codecs.

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post #1899 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 04:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrele View Post

Has anyone used the Darbee Darblet with the Epson 5030 or 5020, and will it help to hide SDE (Screen Door Effect) when viewing on a +/- 120" diag. screen at close distances (8' -12')?

 

I use the Darblett. It won't hide SDE. It probably won't make it any worse though. 8 feet from a 120 inch diagonal screen is just too close IMO.

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post #1900 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 04:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WestCDA View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

You don't need a 3D-compatible AVR to get 3D.  Send the video from your 3D BD player direct to the display. Send audio from the BD player to the AVR via SPDIF (toslink or coax). You will lose HD sound codecs like TrueHD but that is a price worth paying to get the 3D I'd think - the lossless codecs aren't a massive step-up from the lossy codecs (most of what is lost is noise).  Alternatively some BD players these days have two HDMI outputs - one for video and another for sound, in which case you get 3D AND the lossless codecs.

Or simply put a 2 x 1 HDMI splitter after the BD player, and send the full HDMI signal to both the projector and the AVR. MP has one for around 40 dollars that is 3D and 4K compatible - probably a more economical proposition vs. a new BD player ... smile.gif

 

Yes that could work. I have had poor results personally with HDMI splitters. Cheap enough to test though for the OP. I think quite a few BD players these days have dual HDMI outs so one doesn’t have to go to Oppo prices to het this feature any more.

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post #1901 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 08:22 AM
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Hello, I own a 6030ub and since it is basically the same as the 5030, thought that someone might be able to help me out. I am confused over saving "memory" settings. I made some changes to the RGB settings in THX and Cinema color modes and would like to compare them to the default settings. If I push the memory button on the remote and then load memory, then select say Cinema (the settings that I have saved), how can I then toggle back to the default settings? Is this possible? I am new at this and the manual doesn't seem to explain this.
Thank you
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post #1902 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by hmunster2 View Post

Hello, I own a 6030ub and since it is basically the same as the 5030, thought that someone might be able to help me out. I am confused over saving "memory" settings. I made some changes to the RGB settings in THX and Cinema color modes and would like to compare them to the default settings. If I push the memory button on the remote and then load memory, then select say Cinema (the settings that I have saved), how can I then toggle back to the default settings? Is this possible? I am new at this and the manual doesn't seem to explain this.
Thank you

I've got a 6030 and I wish you could rename the memory settings. Anyway, I saved the defaults in memory then made changes then saved again in an open slot. Because you can't rename the setting (or I haven't figured out how to), the default memory setting is the one on top of the modified one. So, I have THX in memory 1 and the modified THX in memory 2 albeit they are both called THX. Then, B&W in memory 3 and 4 with default being the top one, or 3. Hope that makes sense. You may have to reset your defaults and try that method if it works for you.

Sent from my G S4
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post #1903 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by chiltonj View Post

I've got a 6030 and I wish you could rename the memory settings. Anyway, I saved the defaults in memory then made changes then saved again in an open slot. Because you can't rename the setting (or I haven't figured out how to), the default memory setting is the one on top of the modified one. So, I have THX in memory 1 and the modified THX in memory 2 albeit they are both called THX. Then, B&W in memory 3 and 4 with default being the top one, or 3. Hope that makes sense. You may have to reset your defaults and try that method if it works for you.

Sent from my G S4
I'll give that a try, but which settings will come up if you made a change from say thx to cinema using the color mode button on the remote?
Thanks
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post #1904 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 08:58 AM
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I haven't used the color mode button but I'll try in a few. I'm guessing it will be the mode including the changes. You can probably check by making some absurd, remembered change in a mode and see if it sticks or defaults when switching modes via button.

Sent from my G S4
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post #1905 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by home theater View Post

Yea mine was open too. The protective collar was in place. I guess if you ever had to ship it you would push the cover open manually and attach the collar. Zombie how do you attach the transport collar prior to shipping the projector. If the lens cover is open then there is no protection to prevent lens from getting scratched.
Good Question

I don't think Epson would require you to attach the collar prior to shipping it back since having the cabinet closed is a better option than having it open leaving the collar on. But if thats what you prefer then simply unplug the projector with the power on as if you just lost electricity and that would keep it open.
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post #1906 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 09:35 AM
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Yeah, it's weird. The manual has a section on transporting the projector and makes zero mention of the collar. Meanwhile, there is a piece of paper in the package that says the collar must be put on prior to transport.

I just put the collar on while the projector was on and then shut down the projector as normal.
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post #1907 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmunster2 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chiltonj View Post

I've got a 6030 and I wish you could rename the memory settings. Anyway, I saved the defaults in memory then made changes then saved again in an open slot. Because you can't rename the setting (or I haven't figured out how to), the default memory setting is the one on top of the modified one. So, I have THX in memory 1 and the modified THX in memory 2 albeit they are both called THX. Then, B&W in memory 3 and 4 with default being the top one, or 3. Hope that makes sense. You may have to reset your defaults and try that method if it works for you.

Sent from my G S4
I'll give that a try, but which settings will come up if you made a change from say thx to cinema using the color mode button on the remote?
Thanks

Looks like the color mode button takes your last known settings loaded in memory. Good to know.

Sent from my G S4
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post #1908 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmunster2 View Post

I'll give that a try, but which settings will come up if you made a change from say thx to cinema using the color mode button on the remote?

Once you save/restore settings from memory, you really have to use memories for everything. The colour mode buttons become fairly useless, because they don't change some of the settings, and for those items you end up with whatever you last restored from a memory.
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post #1909 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 09:55 AM
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You can rename saved memory settings in the 5030, and no doubt in the 6030, too. Can't check exactly where at the moment, but zombie10k named the new memory settings when he calibrated my 5030. I've created and named a couple of my own.

Joe Clark

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post #1910 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

You can rename saved memory settings in the 5030, and no doubt in the 6030, too. Can't check exactly where at the moment, but zombie10k named the new memory settings when he calibrated my 5030. I've created and named a couple of my own.

Thanks! I'll try to do that. Much appreciated.

Sent from my G S4
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post #1911 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Yes that could work. I have had poor results personally with HDMI splitters. Cheap enough to test though for the OP. I think quite a few BD players these days have dual HDMI outs so one doesn’t have to go to Oppo prices to het this feature any more.
I thought more about splitting the signal and it's going to be a PITA because I have a 20' run to the ceiling mounted PJ. I'm leaning toward just biting the bullet and getting a new AVR now, likely a Sony DN1040. This stuff was easy with a TV just a few feet from the AVR, but a 20' concealed HDMI run adds a whole new twist. It will be cool to have streaming via wireless on the AVR biggrin.gif
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post #1912 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Nuke61 View Post

I thought more about splitting the signal and it's going to be a PITA because I have a 20' run to the ceiling mounted PJ. I'm leaning toward just biting the bullet and getting a new AVR now, likely a Sony DN1040. This stuff was easy with a TV just a few feet from the AVR, but a 20' concealed HDMI run adds a whole new twist...
I must be missing something with your setup. I also have a ceiling mounted PJ using hdmi, and it's pretty straightforward to use a splitter. The 20 Ft run that used to plug into the avr plugs into one of the two splitter outputs. The cable that used to go from the BD player to the avr goes to the splitter input. You just need to add a short new cable from the other splitter output to the input on the avr previously used for the BD connection. Is there something unique on your setup that would not allow this?
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post #1913 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by WestCDA View Post

I must be missing something with your setup. I also have a ceiling mounted PJ using hdmi, and it's pretty straightforward to use a splitter. The 20 Ft run that used to plug into the avr plugs into one of the two splitter outputs. The cable that used to go from the BD player to the avr goes to the splitter input. You just need to add a short new cable from the other splitter output to the input on the avr previously used for the BD connection. Is there something unique on your setup that would not allow this?
I could do that, but what happens when I want to watch sports via Dish Network? Since the 20' run that used to go to the AVR is connected to the PS3, for BR, I effectively lose the ability of using the AVR as an HDMI input switcher. Maybe I'm missing the idea, but since my AVR is in a cabinet that's backed up to the far wall of my HT room, it would be a PITA to swap the PJ cable from the splitter back to the AVR whenever I switched from BR playback to Dish.
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post #1914 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 11:20 AM
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I am using a Darblet with my 5030. I am using an 88" screen at about 10 feet, with no noticeable SDE, so I can't speak to it helping with that. I can't imagine it would though, as it essentially acts as an edge sharpener. It works on the clarity of the image, but doesn't change how the projector sends light. I'd be happy to sit close to my screen tonight and see what kind of difference the image adjustment pre and post darbee makes and let you know.

rgrele - I checked it out and the Darbee makes no discernible difference with SDE. This makes sense, though, as the effect is a result of the way the pixels are projected, and changing the image going into the projector won't have an effect on how the projector shoots the image. You may notice a personal benefit in PQ, but you won't notice a decrease in SDE.
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post #1915 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Nuke61 View Post

Since the 20' run that used to go to the AVR is connected to the PS3, for BR, I effectively lose the ability of using the AVR as an HDMI input switcher.
That's what I was missing - I didn't read back to your previous posts, and realize you were using your receiver as an HDMI switch for other sources as well.

I use an external 5x1 HMDI input switch, even though my AVR has HDMI switching, because it's not 3D compatible. It's a great quality receiver other than the lack of 3D support, so didn't see a need to change it out. The equipment stack services other displays in the house as well, so the sources go to the HDMI switch, into an Oppo 103D as a video processor, then from the two Oppo HDMI outputs to the receiver and to a 1 x 8 HDMI splitter (one of the splitter outputs goes to the projector, in the same HT room as the receiver). Prior to installing the 103D, the HDMI switch connected directly to the HDMI splitter, and one of the splitter outputs went back to the receiver to pick up the HDMI sound for HT use. Prior to putting in 3D displays, the HDMI inputs went into the receiver, and there was no external HDMI switch - which meant the receiver had to be ON regardless of whether it was need for sound in the HT room or not.

In my case, the receiver can be OFF most of the time when viewing is being done outside of the HT room, so I wasn't keen about continually powering it on and off simply as an HDMI switch - the external switch solved that and the 3D issue at the same time. If all your equipment is being used in the HT room with your projector, the simplest solution would be to get a switching AVR that supports 3D HDMI, as you mentioned. Good luck, and happy viewing ... smile.gif
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post #1916 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 03:46 PM
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Hi folks...
Short time lurker (i just found this place!), first time poster...

I made the plunge to buy a projector so i could have the "giant screen" that I deserve to watch hockey (and other stuff, i guess) on.....

After reading ALOT of pages of these forums FULL of priceless information, i decided on an Epson 5030.

Bought it. It was delivered. "Gifted" to me by the wife yesterday. Breathlessly plugged in and fired up tonight (well, this morning, it's about quarter after midnight) only to be really disappointed...

I get no lamp and the flashing blue / flashing orange lights that spell big trouble.
According to the manual, power down, unplug and contact Epson are the next steps....

Which i plan do do when The Epson hotline opens up for me tomorrow at 8am my time...

The question i have is - other folks who have experienced this right out of the box, what was the outcome?
I mean, is "return it. It's broken" the most common outcome, or is "try this and it should fix it"?

I appreciate any response from those who have had a similar experience... I'll see if a little Founders Backwoods Bastard will make me feel any better, but i doubt it...

Thanks much,
-Dave

Dave,

I experienced nearly the exact same issue with my 5030 when it arrived a couple weeks ago. But after unplugging it and re-connecting it a few minutes later it worked fine and has been running without incident since. Perhaps you might try giving it another shot before mailing it in for replacement.
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post #1917 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

Yes that could work. I have had poor results personally with HDMI splitters. Cheap enough to test though for the OP. I think quite a few BD players these days have dual HDMI outs so one doesn’t have to go to Oppo prices to het this feature any more.

My understanding is that the splitter will not work. The 1.4 HDMI 3D signal packages the audio differently from the old 1.3 HDMI standard. Try feeding a 3D signal to your legacy AVR. you won't get picture or audio. The dual output blu ray players use one port for 1.4 compliant 3D picture and one for 1.3 compliant audio, usually with a blank video feed. I had to do this. A $300-400 player is still cheaper than another $2000 AVR.
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post #1918 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 06:52 PM
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Can anyone could share there pro calibration for 3D... I know everyone's different but somehow it helps a lot while we compare the before and after calibration ...
As an example Russell1942 share his B&W settings and OMG what a different from my first settings... Thanks to all, I'm new here so I love to learn from this site and the great knowledge of everyone here.!
By the way, got the VApex 120" fixed frame, so I'm not that picky ...
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post #1919 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 08:44 PM
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I'll post my numbers once I have time to do it.

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post #1920 of 3867 Old 12-27-2013, 09:11 PM
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Thanks for the reply Broadway!
I tried the unplug and replug many times ( heck i had all night to fiddle with it ) and always ended up with the same result.
I called epson support first thing this morning.. Conversation went sorta like-
"I just took it out of the box. Blue and orange flashers"
"When did you buy it? What is the serial number? Have you tried unplugging it?"
"Two weeks ago for Christmas. Xxxxxxxx. Yep. No luck"
"We are sending a new one. Send the old one back when you get the new one."

It is nice that it wasn't much of a hassle getting it swapped, but it sucks that i still can't watch it.

There was zero diagnostic done. So it seems that if the usual trick doesn't work, it is simpler to swap it than troubleshoot it.

Again, i appreciate the reply. We'll see how it goes in a few days when the new one gets here.

-Dave
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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