Official Epson EH-TW 9200 5030UB Owners' Thread - Page 85 - AVS Forum
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post #2521 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 05:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lapino View Post

After a lot of debating, I finally made my choice and ordered the TW9200. Got a pretty nice price for it (in Belgium) including 4 pairs of 3D glasses. Very anxious to install it now. If I'm lukcy, I might get it this week. Person I am buying it from delivers it pre-calibrated, so it should look pretty good.

 

You can't really 'pre-calibrate' a PJ. The calibration will depend on too many factors which will be different in your room to those in the other room where it was calibrated. These include the screen, its type and gain, the colours which the walls, ceiling etc are painted, the amount, if any, of ambient light, the seating distance from the screen and so on, all of which would be factored into a calibration. Using someone else's settings could easily result in a performance that is worse than the standard out-of-the-box performance of the Epson. So I would certainly look at how it is calibrated when it arrives, but I would also try one of the standard modes like THX or Natural etc as it could actually produce a better result for you. Calibration of a PJ has to be done in the room and with the screen that the PJ will be used in.

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post #2522 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 05:12 AM
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If both rooms were fairly neutral color wise and didn't have much ambient light or many reflections (and really most home theater rooms dont have that many), and both screen materials have similar color-neutral properties, you can definitely calibrate a projector for someone elses room in your own room, but it depends. Just a room having a few different colors doesn't really affect the color balance on the screen unless you have bad reflections going on or something. More important though is the screen material, but still it can be pretty close generally speaking.

The contrast and brightness might need re-adjusted as well as lamp settings and position for the room, but the color itself shouldn't be too far off if the screens are close enough from a color standpoint.

You will probably get a slighter higher dE in the other room than what you measured in the original calibration room, but it won't be like night and day, a 0.5 in one measurement (just as an example) might become a 2.5, not too bad and close enough.


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post #2523 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 05:49 AM
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I'll see. The calibration is included anyway so got nothing to lose. If I got it right, the Epson allows me to save the calibrated settings if I want to experiment myself no?
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post #2524 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

If both rooms were fairly neutral color wise and didn't have much ambient light or many reflections (and really most home theater rooms dont have that many), and both screen materials have similar color-neutral properties, you can definitely calibrate a projector for someone elses room in your own room, but it depends. Just a room having a few different colors doesn't really affect the color balance on the screen unless you have bad reflections going on or something. More important though is the screen material, but still it can be pretty close generally speaking.

The contrast and brightness might need re-adjusted as well as lamp settings and position for the room, but the color itself shouldn't be too far off if the screens are close enough from a color standpoint.

You will probably get a slighter higher dE in the other room than what you measured in the original calibration room, but it won't be like night and day, a 0.5 in one measurement (just as an example) might become a 2.5, not too bad and close enough.

 

That's a lot of 'ifs' ;)   Yes, if all the conditions are pretty much identical in both rooms, the calibration will be transferable. But how likely is that in real life? At best a calibration done in a room other than the room in which the PJ will be used, with possibly a different screen type, is going to be hit and miss IMO.

 

If it was possible to make transferable calibrations for PJs there'd be no need for individual calibrations and people could just send their PJs away to be calibrated. An individual calibration is the only way to go IMO - otherwise one might just as well use the presets on a good quality PJ with good OOB performance like these Epsons.

 

As the OP says, the cal is free so he has nothing to lose, but I usually work on the basis that something free is worth what you paid for it ;)

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post #2525 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post

Let's address each of the two options separately:

1. 16x9 screen
This could be considered the norm for this projector as it does not have any memory settings for zoom and focus and the zoom and focus is manual. With a 16x9 screen when you watch movies in scope format (2.35:1 or 2.4:1 or any other wide format) you will have grey bars on the top and bottom. No adjustment is needed when switching formats, the width is always constant and there's no zooming. Some people add masks to the top and bottom to make the areas where the grey bars are completely black.

2. 2.35:1 screen
When you using a wide screen then you will have to manually focus and zoom the image so that HDTV content and other 16:9 images are the same height as the screen, and there will be grey bars on the side. This means your image is always the same height, or Constant Image Height known as CIH. Another option with a 2.35:1 screen is to use an external processor and an anamorphic lens that will stretch the image to fit the screen. When you are watching 16x9 content you remove the lens from in front of the projector. If you get a 6030 the processing for using an external lens is built in. You can then use curtains or masks on the sides screen when viewing 16x9 material.

Some projectors, like the Panasonic 8000, have automatic zoom and focus plus memory for those, making it easier to switch between settings when using a 2.35:1 screen.

Thanks Keith. Appreciate the input. Really helps a newbie out.
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post #2526 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jbernardi View Post

True, but still cheaper than an anamorphic lens, and a permanent mount that (I've read) negatively affects a 16:9 image or a more expensive sliding mount.

Manual focus and zoom wouldn't bother me, but then I'm old enough to remember changing the channels by going up to the TV.

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I went 2:35 1 and couldn't be happier. That said I'm not fussy about manually zooming and movies are very important to me (as opposed to sports or tv). I'd rather have a scope film feel bigger and more epic than smaller. CIH is definitely not for everyone, but those that are into it tend to swear by it.

Heavily leaning toward a 2.35:1 CIH screen setup. Can you tell me how long it takes you to do the switch (zoom, shift, refocus)?
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post #2527 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Viche View Post

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Originally Posted by jbernardi View Post

True, but still cheaper than an anamorphic lens, and a permanent mount that (I've read) negatively affects a 16:9 image or a more expensive sliding mount.

Manual focus and zoom wouldn't bother me, but then I'm old enough to remember changing the channels by going up to the TV.

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Originally Posted by SolRebel View Post

I went 2:35 1 and couldn't be happier. That said I'm not fussy about manually zooming and movies are very important to me (as opposed to sports or tv). I'd rather have a scope film feel bigger and more epic than smaller. CIH is definitely not for everyone, but those that are into it tend to swear by it.

Heavily leaning toward a 2.35:1 CIH screen setup. Can you tell me how long it takes you to do the switch (zoom, shift, refocus)?

About 30 seconds!
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post #2528 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 09:23 AM
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Quick question that I couldn't find in searching the thread. Whenever I turn on my PJ, my Blu-ray turns on too. I don't really want it to do this. Is this somewhere in the settings?
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post #2529 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 09:24 AM
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About 30 seconds!

Sweet. 2.35:1 here I come! Some year. redface.gif
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post #2530 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by NickTheGreat View Post

Quick question that I couldn't find in searching the thread. Whenever I turn on my PJ, my Blu-ray turns on too. I don't really want it to do this. Is this somewhere in the settings?

 

My HT is designed with a URC and when I push the power on button, everything in my lineup turns on, the Epson 6030, the Elite Pioneer AVR, the Oppo 103 Blu Ray player, and DirecTv.  My system was designed this way. 

 

What is in your loop?


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post #2531 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Viche View Post



Heavily leaning toward a 2.35:1 CIH screen setup. Can you tell me how long it takes you to do the switch (zoom, shift, refocus)?

 

Not long at all. maybe 60 seconds if you count the time it takes me to get my butt up off the couch and walk to the projector =]

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post #2532 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by AlexanderDelarg View Post

My HT is designed with a URC and when I push the power on button, everything in my lineup turns on, the Epson 6030, the Elite Pioneer AVR, the Oppo 103 Blu Ray player, and DirecTv.  My system was designed this way. 

What is in your loop?

Well I haven't purchased my Universal Remote yet. So I just turn on the Epson, my AVR and not my Bluray. With my other setup upstairs, I have the Harmony control everything discretely. I can imagine that having the PJ turn something on for me with throw everything off. And unnecessary if I'm not watching a bluray. smile.gif
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post #2533 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by NickTheGreat View Post


Well I haven't purchased my Universal Remote yet. So I just turn on the Epson, my AVR and not my Bluray. With my other setup upstairs, I have the Harmony control everything discretely. I can imagine that having the PJ turn something on for me with throw everything off. And unnecessary if I'm not watching a bluray. smile.gif

My Oppo turns on because if I am watching DirecTv or Roku, I want the Oppo doing the video processing.  However in your situation, I can see why you would not want the BD turning on when it is not being used. 


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Originally Posted by SolRebel View Post

Not long at all. maybe 60 seconds if you count the time it takes me to get my butt up off the couch and walk to the projector =]

Cool thanks. Hey how's the picture quality at 10-11' from a 124" 2.35 screen? I was thinking of something around that size/distance ratio. See any pixels or screen door? Does the picture get much better when you step back a few feet?

Also, sorry for the stupid question, but what's the Epson EH-TW9200? Is it just a re-badged 5030 or is it a totally new projector? First I'd heard of it.

Edit: Looks like the 9200 is the UK version of the 5030, correct?
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post #2535 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 10:04 AM
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Cool thanks. Hey how's the picture quality at 10-11' from a 124" 2.35 screen? I was thinking of something around that size/distance ratio. See any pixels or screen door? Does the picture get much better when you step back a few feet?

Also, sorry for the stupid question, but what's the Epson EH-TW9200? Is it just a re-badged 5030 or is it a totally new projector? First I'd heard of it.

PQ is excellent. I don't see screen door unless I get much closer to the screen. That said, I watched for a good month just on the wall to make sure the size was right. Someone early on recommended this to me and it was great advice. FWIW people at Carada were great. They made me a custom size screen (the 124") 128" was too big and the 120" just didn't quite have the wow factor. For the money, their screens are fantastic.

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post #2536 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by SolRebel View Post

PQ is excellent. I don't see screen door unless I get much closer to the screen. That said, I watched for a good month just on the wall to make sure the size was right. Someone early on recommended this to me and it was great advice. FWIW people at Carada were great. They made me a custom size screen (the 124") 128" was too big and the 120" just didn't quite have the wow factor. For the money, their screens are fantastic.

Was the custom much more than their standard sizes? Which screen did you get (material/gain)? 124" diagonal in 2.35 mode, correct?
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post #2537 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 10:18 AM
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Was the custom much more than their standard sizes? Which screen did you get (material/gain)? 124" diagonal in 2.35 mode, correct?

For custom they just charge you the next size up. Went with the brilliant white 1.4 gain. Yes 124" 2.35. They can do 2.4 also. They make a masking system which I'm hoping to get down the line. $4k so gotta get the wife on board tongue.gif
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post #2538 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 10:26 AM
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For custom they just charge you the next size up. Went with the brilliant white 1.4 gain. Yes 124" 2.35. They can do 2.4 also. They make a masking system which I'm hoping to get down the line. $4k so gotta get the wife on board tongue.gif

Yeah I saw that system....neat looking.

You have the precision or criterion? Why the 1.4 vs regular; ambient light? I've seen a trend toward higher gain screens with this projector, but I can't figure it out.
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post #2539 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NickTheGreat View Post

Quick question that I couldn't find in searching the thread. Whenever I turn on my PJ, my Blu-ray turns on too. I don't really want it to do this. Is this somewhere in the settings?

You've got HDMI control enabled. Find it in the HDMI settings and disable it. 

 

Amusingly, I actually want this to work and can’t get it to...

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post #2540 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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post #2541 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 11:20 AM
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Yeah I saw that system....neat looking.

You have the precision or criterion? Why the 1.4 vs regular; ambient light? I've seen a trend toward higher gain screens with this projector, but I can't figure it out.

 

I went Criterion. The 1.4 seemed like a good balance between a little extra brighness and viewing angle. Honesty this thing throws tons of light even in 3D. I know some people love the ultra high gain screens, but 1.4 gain is plenty bright for me. But I do tend to watch at night so YMMV.

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post #2542 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 11:23 AM
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The Epson has a huge vertical shift range so you don't need to worry too much about the height being exactly, textbook correct. You can mount the Precision Universal directly to the ceiling with no problem - it has holes in the top plate specifically for that. There are a couple of reasons you may want to use the wood joist ceiling mount and an extension pole:
  1. Although the PJ has a huge range of vertical shift, it is always best, if possible, to mount the PJ at the recommended height. Vertical shift is an optical adjustment so it is fairly benign to image quality, but what happens when you use shift is that the image is no longer projected exactly through the centre of the lens. It is slightly 'off'. All lenses are sharpest at the centre, so using a somewhat offset position can slightly degrade the image quality. For a small offset I doubt you will see any difference though in real life. You may have noticed a similar effect when using a camera - the corners of the image are always slightly softer than the centre with most telephoto lenses. The Epson 5030 uses an improved Fujinon lens so I doubt a small offset is a problem. If you use an extension pole you can get the PJ mounted at the right height, or closer to it.

     
  2. I use a short (3 inch) extension with my Peerless Universal mount. This does bring the PJ a little closer to the 'perfect' height, but this is not why I use the extension. I use it because it then enables me to rotate the entire PJ by tiny little amounts (by rotating the pole in its thread) and this helps you to get the PJ perfectly parallel to the wall. Once it is spot on, tightening the small locking screw fixes the pole in position. You can do this rotation by rotating the entire mount at the ceiling because the mounting holes in the top plate are elongated for this purpose, but I find it is next to impossible to do it accurately - you can get it right and then when you tighten the screws the thing moves a little. And, of course, tiny movements at the PJ translate into big movements at the screen.

The other adjustments on this exceptional mount then allow for adjustment up and down (front to back) and up and down (left to right). IOW, you have total control over all three planes of adjustment, and in millimetric amounts. Once adjusted all adjusters are locked off and the PJ will not move. 

One other good thing about the mount is that it is in two parts - the lower part, which actually fastens to the PJ, can be detached from the upper part by unscrewing a fastener and this means you can remove the entire PJ from the mount in 2 seconds and replace it similarly - eg after a lamp change - and you do not lose any of the adjustments you made before!  It is a superb mount and the best I have seen.

What exactly would be considered a small offset?
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post #2543 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

The Epson has a huge vertical shift range so you don't need to worry too much about the height being exactly, textbook correct. You can mount the Precision Universal directly to the ceiling with no problem - it has holes in the top plate specifically for that. There are a couple of reasons you may want to use the wood joist ceiling mount and an extension pole:
  1. Although the PJ has a huge range of vertical shift, it is always best, if possible, to mount the PJ at the recommended height. Vertical shift is an optical adjustment so it is fairly benign to image quality, but what happens when you use shift is that the image is no longer projected exactly through the centre of the lens. It is slightly 'off'. All lenses are sharpest at the centre, so using a somewhat offset position can slightly degrade the image quality. For a small offset I doubt you will see any difference though in real life. You may have noticed a similar effect when using a camera - the corners of the image are always slightly softer than the centre with most telephoto lenses. The Epson 5030 uses an improved Fujinon lens so I doubt a small offset is a problem. If you use an extension pole you can get the PJ mounted at the right height, or closer to it.

     
  2. I use a short (3 inch) extension with my Peerless Universal mount. This does bring the PJ a little closer to the 'perfect' height, but this is not why I use the extension. I use it because it then enables me to rotate the entire PJ by tiny little amounts (by rotating the pole in its thread) and this helps you to get the PJ perfectly parallel to the wall. Once it is spot on, tightening the small locking screw fixes the pole in position. You can do this rotation by rotating the entire mount at the ceiling because the mounting holes in the top plate are elongated for this purpose, but I find it is next to impossible to do it accurately - you can get it right and then when you tighten the screws the thing moves a little. And, of course, tiny movements at the PJ translate into big movements at the screen.

The other adjustments on this exceptional mount then allow for adjustment up and down (front to back) and up and down (left to right). IOW, you have total control over all three planes of adjustment, and in millimetric amounts. Once adjusted all adjusters are locked off and the PJ will not move. 

One other good thing about the mount is that it is in two parts - the lower part, which actually fastens to the PJ, can be detached from the upper part by unscrewing a fastener and this means you can remove the entire PJ from the mount in 2 seconds and replace it similarly - eg after a lamp change - and you do not lose any of the adjustments you made before!  It is a superb mount and the best I have seen.

What exactly would be considered a small offset?

 

I doubt if you would be able to see any degradation of image if you used an offset from the ideal of a foot or so. Maybe even more. The lenses they use to shoot the movies have the same issues - they are 'softer' at the extremities than at the centre -- all lenses are -- but you rarely notice this in real life.  The better (and more expensive) a lens is, the less noticeable is the problem. The Epson uses a very good, updated Fujinon lens.

 

When you use the V or H offset you are effectively projecting not quite through the centre of the lens but I doubt you would notice any visible issues unless you were getting towards the maximum offset. In the Epson, the range of shift is huge, but if you take care to mount as closely as you can to the 'ideal' position and just use the shift for small adjustments you will be fine. This is what I did - my last PJ was a DLP unit with no horizontal offset and almost no vertical offset so it had to be mounted extremely precisely, which is not all that easy and can be a real PITA. With the Epson, I got it as close as I could without obsessing over it, and then used a little bit of vertical and horizontal shift to perfect it. Easy.

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post #2544 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 12:04 PM
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I went Criterion. The 1.4 seemed like a good balance between a little extra brighness and viewing angle. Honesty this thing throws tons of light even in 3D. I know some people love the ultra high gain screens, but 1.4 gain is plenty bright for me. But I do tend to watch at night so YMMV.

 

The reviews I have read stated that the Criterion BW (which is what I have) tests closer to 1.1 - 1.2 gain. I went with the BW in my HT which is extremely dark as it is enclosed -- as Carada owner David Giles recommended it over the classic white. 


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post #2545 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

You've got HDMI control enabled. Find it in the HDMI settings and disable it. 

Amusingly, I actually want this to work and can’t get it to...

Ok, THANKS. I will try this when I get a chance.

If I can't work it out, we could always meet halfway and swap! wink.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #2546 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 01:46 PM
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Can anyone tell me how blurry fast mode is for gaming? I'm trying to decide between this and the Panasonic 8000u. I split 50/50 games/movies.
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post #2547 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 02:25 PM
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I have a question for those who own a 3020e or 5030ube.

Can you connect the wirelessHD transmitter to your HDTV via the HDMI output?

I am looking to have all of my components (BD, STB, Apple TV) input into the HDMI inputs of the wirelessHD transmitter and output to an HDTV through the HDMI output, to my audio system through the optical output and of course wirelessly to the projector. I would like to be able to watch the HDTV during casual daytime viewing and the projector for movies with a retractable screen.

On a side note, has anyone used or know of someone who has used a good quality soundbar for audio with a projector and screen?

Thanks
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post #2548 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 09:13 PM
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Ok,

So I'm a dumb as* and bought a 5030 without thinking it wouldn't work with an anamorphic lens, now it seems I need to get a processor but that seems to cost as much as the projector did.

So what is my best course of action? and please don't suggest the zoom method, that is not possible in my situation.

I guess I can CL this thing and take a big price hit, seems a shame I don't even have an hour on it.

Seems like every cheep projector on the marked can do it, but no not Epson... thanks for nothing Epson!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry for the attitude but it really sucks.
Al
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post #2549 of 3483 Old 03-10-2014, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by allensbad View Post

Ok,

So I'm a dumb as* and bought a 5030 without thinking it wouldn't work with an anamorphic lens, now it seems I need to get a processor but that seems to cost as much as the projector did.

So what is my best course of action? and please don't suggest the zoom method, that is not possible in my situation.

I guess I can CL this thing and take a big price hit, seems a shame I don't even have an hour on it.

Seems like every cheep projector on the marked can do it, but no not Epson... thanks for nothing Epson!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry for the attitude but it really sucks.
Al

Maybe your dealer would take it back in exchange plus $$$ for a 6030UB. I just got one and it's an awesome PJ. I'm not doing an added lens (yet) but it's ready for one if I decide too.

9.2 System.....
Onkyo Pre/Pro PR-SC5508 Powered by Emotiva XPA-5 X 2
Klipsch RF-7II's Mains
Klipsch RC-64II Center
Klipsch RB-75s Heights
Klipsch RS-7's Side Surrounds
Klipsch RS-52II's Rear Surrounds
Klipsch RW-12D Subs x 2
Klipsch Belle's x 4
OPPO BDP-105 with Roku Streaming Stick
Epson 6030UB / Vapex 12...
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post #2550 of 3483 Old 03-11-2014, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by allensbad View Post


So what is my best course of action? and please don't suggest the zoom method, that is not possible in my situation.

Get a 16:9 Screen and ENJOY.

Wide Screen is a waste of money in my opinion.

I have the Processor and Before Epson - I owned a Sony PJ
with Electronic Zoom and Memory.

I never used it and enjoyed my 16;9 Screen.

ANY NEW SCREEN is CHEAPER than alternatives
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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Epson 5030ub 2d 3d 1080p 3lcd Projector
Gear in this thread - 5030ub by PriceGrabber.com

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