Official Sony VPL-VW500ES / VW600ES 4K Projector Thread - Page 110 - AVS Forum
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post #3271 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 05:38 AM
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Mankite. I am deeply struggling on how to answer this question without upsetting you. Obviously or maybe not the holes in the ceiling and their depth have nothing to d with anything. To the best of my knowledge no projector or projector mount comes with screws for attaching the projector or a projector mount to the ceiling. Mount manufacturers do not want the legal liability which would ensue if they supplied or even advised on how to safely mount their mount to the ceiling.

Most people use a ceiling flange plate to actually attach their mount to a ceiling. This is merly a female 1 1/2 NT pipe socket on a plate with four holes on the plate. Basically its called a pipe flange. You can buy one at home depot for about $4 or you can order facy ones from the projector mount companies with cover plates etc for about $30. But they all do the same thing. Hole spcings on the plate are about the same and the idea is to get one or two screws into a ceiling joist. Some plates are on sliders so you can can attach the piece that doesn't slide to a joist and then slide the actual pipe socket. You have to pick what type of screws etc to actually attach the flange to the ceiling. Then you have to procure them. One or two screws of the right length and type will do or you can knock your self out and use four but it is normally difficult to have all four hit a joist. In the old days when some projectors weighed 200 lbs, people opened their ceilings and added wood or used u channel to mount to studs and mounted their mounts to the u channel.

Next you need a piece of 1 1/2 NT threaded pipe. This attaches the mount to the ceiling and attaches or rather screws into a socket built into the mount. This pipe can be any length. It can be just a 2 inch piece having nothing but threads, it can have length between the threaded ends. It can be fancy, it can be adjustable. You can buy normal pipe at Home Depot, you can have then cut and thread whatever length you need. Short lengths are already made and they are called pipe nipples. You can join two pre mades into one by using a pipe collar found where the nipples are found. You can buy poles etc from the mount companies and pay a lot more.

Now you need a mount and yes in deed, these do come with screws for mounting the mount to the projector. The best way is to get a dedicated plate mount for your projector instead of a universal mount with spider legs. Chief makes several mounts. The RPA or the RPMA. What follows is the universal kit which is shipped with the mount or the dedicated plate. There are many plates and you must pick the right plate for your projector. So we have a RPA-U or something like that or a (RPMA-U) or an RPAXXX or RPMAXXX. Now to fill in the XXXs for your projector. Off to look it up in the Chief mount finder. Now back and its the 020. You can order just the 020 plate if you already have a RPA or RPMA with a universal or other plate. If you order just the plate you add some letters before the 020. SLB or SLM, something like that, I just don't remember.

Why don't you just give me a call later and I can walk you through all this and then you can order what you need frpom AV Science Sales. Craig is around today to help you.

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post #3272 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 06:02 AM
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I already have a mount. I was talking about the holes in the projector itself. The Sony takes a 10-32 x 1/2 in and I still needed a washer on top so it was tight to bracket.
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post #3273 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralphcowaniii View Post
Thanks for the response Mark. Sorry I was so vague. Sort of a newbie here. My throw distance (I assume how far back i sit from the screen) is about 14 feet. My walls are light tan (not very reflective), room gets very dark and the ceiling is white. The projector is a ceiling mount. Thanks!
Sorry. The throw distance is a distance between the lens front and the plane of the screen. Horizontal to the floor usually.Seating distance is the distance from your eyes to the plane iof the screen.

Your room is what I would call bad. Others would call it something less descriptive. But white ceilings are bad. Tan is bad. Great is a black pit. Bad is why you got Firehawk in the first place. Its a compromise fabric designed to solve room and ambient light problems at the cost of less than the best image quality. This fabric has been recently redesigned by the engineers at Stewart. Its called the Firehawk G4 and performs with less artifacting. The gain has been lowered to 1.1 and that would do you fine. Since you already have a Stewart screen, you could just get new fabric for it. Give Craig at AV Science Sales a call and he will fix you up.

If you want to discuss this with me, please give me a call.

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post #3274 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mankite View Post
Man the screw holes used to mount projector on the ceiling aren't very deep. My Jvc holds a lot of screw. The Sony is like less then 1/2 inch. What ceiling mounts are you guys using?
A little lost here. You mount a mounting plate to the ceiling. Has nothing to do with the projector? Are you talking about the holes in the projector for attaching a mount to the projector? Those holes are plenty deep, since they use a fine thread machine screw. For mounts, we use the Chief RPA or RPMA series most of the time.

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post #3275 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralphcowaniii View Post
I was hoping to get a little advice on my upcoming purchase. I currently have a Sony VW60 1080 projector and a 110 inch Stewart Firehawk screen. I want to upgrade to the Sony VW600ES projector. I was wondering if I purchased the 600 if my current screen would do it justice? Anyone have any thoughts on this? I would really appreciate any advice. Thanks!
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post #3276 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mankite View Post
I already have a mount. I was talking about the holes in the projector itself. The Sony takes a 10-32 x 1/2 in and I still needed a washer on top so it was tight to bracket.
The mounting plate comes with a number of different screws and stand offs etc. If you are using non suppled washers, that's OK. Just buy a few longer 10/32 screws. Try 5/8 inch instead of 1/2.

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post #3277 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
The mounting plate comes with a number of different screws and stand offs etc. If you are using non suppled washers, that's OK. Just buy a few longer 10/32 screws. Try 5/8 inch instead of 1/2.
He needs shorter screws (3/8"), since he had to add a washer to make it tight.

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post #3278 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 02:06 PM
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It was just making me nervous how little amount of screw went into the projector. With the JVCs the screws were bigger and way more went into the projector. How much is the group buy on the server?
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post #3279 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mankite View Post
Man the screw holes used to mount projector on the ceiling aren't very deep. My Jvc holds a lot of screw. The Sony is like less then 1/2 inch. What ceiling mounts are you guys using?
I'm using a Chief RPA 020. Chief makes very sturdy mounts.
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post #3280 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mankite View Post
It was just making me nervous how little amount of screw went into the projector. With the JVCs the screws were bigger and way more went into the projector. How much is the group buy on the server?
The screws are actually supposed to be metric 5x12 screws. The theads maybe getting hung up as you tighten as 32/inch is about 12.6/mm and a number 10 screw is only about 4.76mm in diameter. I would get the right screws to be sure.

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post #3281 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 02:30 PM
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I looked through the whole manual and saw nothing about which size screw to use. The 10-24 wasn't the right thread. The 10-32 worked for me.
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post #3282 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 02:44 PM
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Which setting are you guys using on motion flow for movies?
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post #3283 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mankite View Post
Which setting are you guys using on motion flow for movies?
I generally leave it on Combination for both TV & movies. For me, it seems the best "set and forget" setting so I'm not constantly tweaking. I will nudge it up to Smooth Low if absolutely necessary.
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post #3284 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 03:39 PM
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Anyone using a 132" wide 2.35 screen with the 600? I'm going to have a 11' wide screen (almost certainly Studiotek 130 perfed), and am wondering if the 600 is going to be bright enough using zoom mode vs. an anamorphic lens. One note, I will be near the end of the throw limit, as the lens will be about 22' from the screen (soon to be newly constructed Erskine designed/built HT).

One of the ways to help talk myself into the 600 is not having the need for the anamorphic lens (saving $4-10k depending on make, model, sled, etc), but at least based on the calculator at projector central, it's showing I would be down to about 10 fl using the zoom method on a 1.2 gain screen (left calculator set to 16:9 and changed the width to 132", which is what would happen if I used zoom to fill 2.35 screen). It is showing that it would be 15fl when I'm masked down to 1.78 (115" diagonal). 15fl is fine, 10fl seems a bit weak (even though for years I was using an IN76 in moderately light controlled living room and when I finally got a light meter, I think I was down around 8fl with a new bulb and it always seemed "bright" when new).

I know that calculator doesn't always get it right, so I'm curious if anyone else is using a similar size screen/throw distance while using zoom vs. anamorphic.

My other options are to go with an anamorphic lens and remove it when playing any native 4k content.

Or, possibly get a cheaper projector (Epson 6030 or similar) with an anamorphic lens as a placeholder for a few years until the 4k market settles out.
well my screen is 126 wide.. dalite.
the picture is at least twice as bright as my marantz.
i sold my isco lens and am very happy with the button to fill the screen for 2.35
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post #3285 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 03:58 PM
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How much is the group buy on the new server.
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post #3286 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 06:52 PM
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How much is the group buy on the new server.
Forget the new server, I'll sell you a once used original for half price

In search of video bliss...
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post #3287 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 09:34 PM
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How much is the group buy on the new server.
If you are talking about the Sony FMP-x10, there's a $200 off promotional on the pre-buy. MSRP is $699 so that would bring it down to about $499. I've been working with AVS to see if they can get it for me.
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post #3288 of 3467 Old 07-01-2014, 10:10 PM
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I Pre ordered a Sony FMP-x10 for US$498. Offer ends 5th July. Saving of $200 as said above. They say expected availability 28th July
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post #3289 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 12:03 AM
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Does the new server have 2 hdmi outputs? If so can you output audio to one and only video to the other?
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post #3290 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 12:32 AM
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Sony FMP-x10 Specs

Resolution Up to 3840 x 2160 / 60 p
Hard Drive Capacity 1 TB
Wi-Fi Yes, 802.11 a/b/g/n
Supported Formats XAVC S
AVC (H.264)
HEVC (H.265)
Dolby Digital Plus
Inputs/Outputs 2 x USB 2.0
1 x Ethernet
1 x HDMI
Firmware Upgradeable Yes, USB and Network
LED Hard Drive, Power
Dimensions (WxHxD) 9.8 x 2 x 9.8" (250 x 50 x 250 mm)
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post #3291 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mankite View Post
I looked through the whole manual and saw nothing about which size screw to use. The 10-24 wasn't the right thread. The 10-32 worked for me.

But not for somebody else? Come on. You need the right size and thread and getting it to work improperly means nothing. Using the wrong screw might barely hold hold it going in only a bit. Jamming in the wrong size a turn or so might result in an expensive repair if you wreck the threads.

I couldn't find anything on whether its a 10/32" or a metric 10. The simple thing would be to spend 69 cents or so and buy 3 metric 10 and see if they screw in better and further. If I had to bet, I think it is indeed metric.

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post #3292 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 03:55 AM
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How much is the group buy on the new server.
The best deal around is to buy direct from Sony at the pre buy price. To the best of my knowledge, Sony did not lower its offer dealers a lower pre buy price cost on the FMP 10 and dealers essentially are not able to match the pre buy price At this point, there is very little interest in the new server which I like to call the brick in order of the short lived puck which many of us were forced to buy to get our 1000ES projectors upgraded to 1100ES. As more 4K content becomes available through downloads and streaming, and if the streaming quality doesn't suck, which it will certainly suck, their may be more interest in the brick.

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post #3293 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
The best deal around is to buy direct from Sony at the pre buy price. To the best of my knowledge, Sony did not lower its offer dealers a lower pre buy price cost on the FMP 10 and dealers essentially are not able to match the pre buy price At this point, there is very little interest in the new server which I like to call the brick in order of the short lived puck which many of us were forced to buy to get our 1000ES projectors upgraded to 1100ES. As more 4K content becomes available through downloads and streaming, and if the streaming quality doesn't suck, which it will certainly suck, their may be more interest in the brick.
Correct as of this time. The new server will get you 4K Netflix. I guess that means, the 4K will get you the equivalent of good 1080P BD quality from Netflix.

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For those that have several pairs of glasses, I could see this as desirable, but since the cost of the Sony RF glasses is not that much and you can purchase the Samsung SSG-5100GB glasses.
Hi,

I am having my VW500 installed as I type this... how exciting Can I assume that since the Samsung SSG-5150GB replaced the SSG-5100GB that they are a good purchase for this projector?

Thanks, Tim
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post #3295 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
But not for somebody else? Come on. You need the right size and thread and getting it to work improperly means nothing. Using the wrong screw might barely hold hold it going in only a bit. Jamming in the wrong size a turn or so might result in an expensive repair if you wreck the threads.

I couldn't find anything on whether its a 10/32" or a metric 10. The simple thing would be to spend 69 cents or so and buy 3 metric 10 and see if they screw in better and further. If I had to bet, I think it is indeed metric.
They definitely won't go in further. Used the end of a paper clip to see how deep the screw holes were. Are you saying a 10/32 and a metric 10 screw will both fit in the same screw hole?
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post #3296 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 02:03 PM
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Anything smaller than the hole will go in. Something close might not be right but might go in far enough to grab onto a thread. Only one size is right, be it a 10/32 or a metric 10. I don't know but assuming the threads aren't damaged it would be obvious which one is right by trying. Owning various Sony projectors over the years, including my current 1100ES, there never has been a problem with securing the screws that come with the Chief mounting plates to the sony.

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post #3297 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 02:12 PM
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Does the new server have 2 hdmi outputs? If so can you output audio to one and only video to the other?

My post has been severely edited.
The specs, as posted above, show only one HDMI out This is wrong and I stupidly relied on the post without checking the official specs.for the brick. It in fact has two HDMI outs and one of those is for audio. I hang my head on shame and I am deleting a bunch of posts. I suggest Kris and Seegs delete their posts which follow this one.

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post #3298 of 3467 Old 07-02-2014, 04:57 PM
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The spec sheet shows 2 outputs, same as the original player

Inputs and Outputs
USB 2.0 : 2 (1 Front, 1 Rear)
Ethernet : Up to 3840 x 2160/60p
HDMI™ Audio Output(s) : 1 (Rear)
HDMI™ Video Audio Output(s) : 1 (Rear)
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post #3300 of 3467 Old 07-03-2014, 05:35 AM
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That is correct. I foolishly relied on a post of the specs which showed only one HDMI out. I hang my head in shame for not checking the actual specs. I suggest Kris and Seegs delete their posts where they responded to my error thinking it wasn't an error. I have edited mine appropriately.

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Last edited by mark haflich; 07-03-2014 at 05:58 AM.
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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