Official Sony VPL-VW500ES / VW600ES 4K Projector Thread - Page 130 - AVS Forum
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post #3871 of 4169 Old 10-31-2014, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
And after you measure it to within plus or minus one nanosecond, exactly what use will that be? It is what it is and there is nothing you can do with the info. It might be of interest if you didn't already own the beast, but given the new smaller or shorter lag, what use is measuring it to you if you already own the projector?
There is a database of measurements with the leo bodnar lag tester and the older crt method on this site:

http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/

It does not contain many projectors though. I provided some numbers i measured myself and some measured by hdtvtest.uk for a couple of current projectors (JVC, Sony, Benq etc.). You can find them in one of my previous posts. These are pretty useful for people who want to use projectors for gaming. They can also be used as a baseline for adjusting the audio delay, but beware there are some other factors to consider (playback device, audio processing, automatic delay compensation with hdmi etc.). For setting audio delay one could use a device called synccheck 3 - it has a microphone, photosensor and comes with some prerecorded audio/video patterns to measure the delay of the whole playback chain.
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post #3872 of 4169 Old 10-31-2014, 05:18 PM
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Good luck with finding a crt that can do 4k@60.
It doesn't need to be 4K. The CRT is just the reference device. These don't have input lag.

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post #3873 of 4169 Old 10-31-2014, 05:22 PM
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Thanks. I didn't realize that knowing what it is could be useful for adjusting something like audio delay. I would say I am not a gamer and use that as a lame excuse for my ignorance on the subject but the truth is that I do play posting games here on AVS especially with Scott W.

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post #3874 of 4169 Old 10-31-2014, 05:27 PM
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It doesn't need to be 4K. He CRT is just the reference device. These doesn't have input lag.
Do do it properly you have to have a CRT that does 4k@60. As you want the exact same signal on both devices. The dual head method especially with different output resolutions is less reliable as explained on displaylag.com. Also downconverting the reference signal is unreliable as that process might also alter the lag. Even with normal resolution and a high speed camera its cumbersome to accuratley determine lag from a crt reference display as you have to average multiple runs and read overlapping numbers. Believe me, I used all methods to determine lag and the leo bodnar tester ist by far the simplest and most accurate method to date. Of course an updated version of the device that can do 4k version would be even better.
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post #3875 of 4169 Old 10-31-2014, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jojodyne View Post
Do do it properly you have to have a CRT that does 4k@60. As you want the exact same signal on both devices. The dual head method especially with different output resolutions is less reliable as explained on displaylag.com. Also downconverting the reference signal is unreliable as that process might also alter the lag. Even with normal resolution and a high speed camera its cumbersome to accuratley determine lag from a crt reference display as you have to average multiple runs and read overlapping numbers. Believe me, I used all methods to determine lag and the leo bodnar tester ist by far the simplest and most accurate method to date. Of course an updated version of the device that can do 4k version would be even better.
No, it does not need to be 4K on the CRT. The reason we use a CRT monitor is because it doesn't have any input lag. You aren't comparing the two devices to find the difference in input lag between the two. You're using the CRT number to find out what the actual number that should be displayed at the time of taking the photo would be if there was no input lag. And that's what you get with the CRT. That's what the number on the CRT represents. It doesn't matter the resolution input on the CRT to obtain this number. The other device, in this case the Sony, has some degree of input lag and to find that number we simply subtract the two numbers to find out what the input lag on the Sony is. Think of the CRT as a reference point of 0 input lag and the difference in the numbers as the amount of input lag on the other device. Changing the resolution on the CRT won't change the number on the CRT when you take it's photo which is why a 4K input is not necessary.

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post #3876 of 4169 Old 10-31-2014, 10:16 PM
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Having issues trying to update the firmware. Formatted usb drive (granted, its an old 256 MB cruzer mini) in FAT32. Tried copying the extracted folder over to thumb drive and extracting the folder straight to the thumb drive. Same result, nothing. After turning on the projector, the drive lights up several times like its being read by the 600es, then stops. 600es light still green and never changes and never updates.
Any suggestions?
Anyone? I really want to check out the improved lag. I also tried again disconnecting the hdmi cable, still a no go. I guess I need to go out and buy a new usb drive? I really hate to call Sony for this.
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post #3877 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 02:26 AM
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Anyone? Has anybody else experienced similar problems? Any advice, please?...

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I was out of the country on business and, when I came back, there was a nice surprise from my dealer: Sony sent a replacement projector for me. The old one was manufactured in 04/2014, the replacement unit in 08/2014.

I was told that Sony tested the projector for two days - and my dealer showed me the e-mail from Sony stating this - so the box was opened and then re-taped. Although the lamp life was still at 0 hours - weird after testing a projector "for two days".

The blue horizontal convergence issue on the replacement projector is similar in magnitude to the one on the old one but is seems to be correcting itself to stable state a bit faster: in about 40 minutes instead of 60 minutes. Good.

But I noticed another two issues with this unit and I would like to ask for your advice before I contact the dealer again.

1. Colour uniformity. On a white screen pattern - from the Digital Video Essentials HD DVD - there is a greenish area in the upper left corner at low intensity levels (see the attached photo titled 20% White Field). Beyond that, the greenish area disappears but area at the bottom of the screen, and especially the bottom corners become progressively yellowish as the signal intensity increases (see the attached photo titled 100% White Field). This phenomenon is also visible in the other, lower intensity photos. (Please ignore the thick horizontal darker bands in these photos as they are due to my iPhone. They do not exist on the actual screen image.) I have not noticed this phenomenon on the previous projector after 70 hours but it is quite visible of the replacement unit, especially on white backgrounds (hockey game) or black and white films (I watched Psycho). Is this colour (non)uniformity normal? Can it be adjusted?

2. The replacement projector makes a loud clunky noise when reversing the direction of the vertical lens shift (I did not try the horizontal lens shift yet). Clearly, the old unit was not making this noise, it was almost silent.

What do you think? Are the above symptoms normal, or does this require another e-mail to my dealer?

Many thanks, anticipated.
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post #3878 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 03:03 AM
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Hmm maybe?

Keep us posted.
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post #3879 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 03:11 AM
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Keep us posted.
I will. I want atmos anyways so a new pre pro...but I was planning for that next year. Oh well some upgrades nescessitates others!
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post #3880 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 03:11 AM
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No, it does not need to be 4K on the CRT. The reason we use a CRT monitor is because it doesn't have any input lag. You aren't comparing the two devices to find the difference in input lag between the two. You're using the CRT number to find out what the actual number that should be displayed at the time of taking the photo would be if there was no input lag. And that's what you get with the CRT. That's what the number on the CRT represents. It doesn't matter the resolution input on the CRT to obtain this number. The other device, in this case the Sony, has some degree of input lag and to find that number we simply subtract the two numbers to find out what the input lag on the Sony is. Think of the CRT as a reference point of 0 input lag and the difference in the numbers as the amount of input lag on the other device. Changing the resolution on the CRT won't change the number on the CRT when you take it's photo which is why a 4K input is not necessary.
This is plain wrong. How do you think the number gets displayed on the CRT? It does need to get a video signal containing the number - ideally the identical signal the SONY (or any other device to be measured) gets. Keep in mind that there are no CRT monitors that even accept a 2160p@60 signal. Any downconversion/splitting/dual head video card output/digital to analog conversions might affect lag measurement. The preferable way in the old analog/days was just to split the VGA (or whatever) analog signal to the CRT display and to the to be measured display. Also it is a myth that ALL CRTs are lag free, some late HD CRT TVs have a digital frame buffer and do some processing before outputting, most older computer monitor CRTs are fine though. When HDMI took over most people resorted to the "dual head" solution, using a videocard with two outputs - be it at the same resolution or different resolutions, as long as both displays understood them. This is not as accurate as there is no control over the videocards/drivers reading and outputting the framebuffers in sync. Another is to use a digital hdmi splitter and a digital-to-analog converter with the same problems as there is no control over lag introduced by these stages. Bottom line: the numbers do not magically appear on both displays, and that's were your argument fails. Also i get the impression you are quite new to the whole subject and never measured any lag times yourself, it is by far not as easy as just taking one photograph. Most of the times the numbers are a blurr and you better average multiple runs. See also here why all reputable sites measuring lag switched to using a dedicated device for measuring:
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/input-lag

If you still do not understand some of the issues, feel free to ask.
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post #3881 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jojodyne View Post
This is plain wrong. How do you think the number gets displayed on the CRT? It does need to get a video signal containing the number - ideally the identical signal the SONY (or any other device to be measured) gets. Keep in mind that there are no CRT monitors that even accept a 2160p@60 signal. Any downconversion/splitting/dual head video card output/digital to analog conversions might affect lag measurement. The preferable way in the old analog/days was just to split the VGA (or whatever) analog signal to the CRT display and to the to be measured display. Also it is a myth that ALL CRTs are lag free, some late HD CRT TVs have a digital frame buffer and do some processing before outputting, most older computer monitor CRTs are fine though. When HDMI took over most people resorted to the "dual head" solution, using a videocard with two outputs - be it at the same resolution or different resolutions, as long as both displays understood them. This is not as accurate as there is no control over the videocards/drivers reading and outputting the framebuffers in sync. Another is to use a digital hdmi splitter and a digital-to-analog converter with the same problems as there is no control over lag introduced by these stages. Bottom line: the numbers do not magically appear on both displays, and that's were your argument fails. Also i get the impression you are quite new to the whole subject and never measured any lag times yourself, it is by far not as easy as just taking one photograph. Most of the times the numbers are a blurr and you better average multiple runs. See also here why all reputable sites measuring lag switched to using a dedicated device for measuring:
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/input-lag

If you still do not understand some of the issues, feel free to ask.
I mentioned a CRT monitor specifically because it's a slave to the PC connected to it for scaling. Yes, some CRT TVs may introduce input lag, but that is not the case here because no one would use one for this test. The PC output/conversion to analog may add small lag to the output as you mention, but we cannot use that device here because it doesn't output a 4K signal. All you need to do is use a graphics card that can support two displays at the same time. Ideally it should have a connection that can do 4K (HDMI or displayport will work) and a DVI-I connector so you can send an analog image to the CRT. Almost every graphics card released in the past 5 years has these features. Again, it DOES NOT NEED TO BE 4K going to the CRT as it's simply a reference to what the number should be with zero lag. As long as you're using the CRT in the best possible way to represent minimal input lag using it for the test is fine. Yes, I'm fully aware you may need to take a dozen or so photos to get an accurate result but as of right now this is the only method we have to do the test. With the photo method we may be adding a small amount of error to the procedure but it's going to be more accurate than sending a 1080p signal to the Sony and that's the only point I've been trying to make.

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post #3882 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 04:43 AM
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A quick question.

How many cables / type of cables do you guys run to the sony projector? I am building out the ceiling now and thinking of having these pulled in (before the ceiling and acoustics stuff so they are not visible).

1. 1x power socket
2. 2x hdmi cable.

Do I need other types of cables? Like maybe a lan line?
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post #3883 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 05:58 AM
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A quick question.

How many cables / type of cables do you guys run to the sony projector? I am building out the ceiling now and thinking of having these pulled in (before the ceiling and acoustics stuff so they are not visible).

1. 1x power socket
2. 2x hdmi cable.

Do I need other types of cables? Like maybe a lan line?

I personally would always run Cat6 (LAN), USB and rs-232 to be ready for any f/w update or control scenario.


Ideally you want to run a duct in ceiling so you can upgrade easily any cable, especially HDMI which change fairly regularly.
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post #3884 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 05:59 AM
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A quick question.

How many cables / type of cables do you guys run to the sony projector? I am building out the ceiling now and thinking of having these pulled in (before the ceiling and acoustics stuff so they are not visible).

1. 1x power socket
2. 2x hdmi cable.

Do I need other types of cables? Like maybe a lan line?

If very troublesome to install later consider:

12v triggers
Rs232
IR
USB
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post #3885 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 08:04 AM
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I personally would always run Cat6 (LAN), USB and rs-232 to be ready for any f/w update or control scenario.


Ideally you want to run a duct in ceiling so you can upgrade easily any cable, especially HDMI which change fairly regularly.
If you do not want to be asking "how can I get 8K to my new 8K projector" in a few years, then install a conduit, if required to be able to change out HDMI later.

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post #3886 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 08:14 AM
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Re-read my post, that's exactly what I said
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post #3887 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 10:44 AM
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I mentioned a CRT monitor specifically because it's a slave to the PC connected to it for scaling. Yes, some CRT TVs may introduce input lag, but that is not the case here because no one would use one for this test. The PC output/conversion to analog may add small lag to the output as you mention, but we cannot use that device here because it doesn't output a 4K signal. All you need to do is use a graphics card that can support two displays at the same time. Ideally it should have a connection that can do 4K (HDMI or displayport will work) and a DVI-I connector so you can send an analog image to the CRT. Almost every graphics card released in the past 5 years has these features. Again, it DOES NOT NEED TO BE 4K going to the CRT as it's simply a reference to what the number should be with zero lag. As long as you're using the CRT in the best possible way to represent minimal input lag using it for the test is fine. Yes, I'm fully aware you may need to take a dozen or so photos to get an accurate result but as of right now this is the only method we have to do the test. With the photo method we may be adding a small amount of error to the procedure but it's going to be more accurate than sending a 1080p signal to the Sony and that's the only point I've been trying to make.
Its good that you learned something. Before you claimed: "Changing the resolution on the CRT won't change the number on the CRT when you take it's photo which is why a 4K input is not necessary.". Now you got wiser and admit that it does matter - and YES it is true also for dual head output - quote:"The PC output/conversion may add small lag to the output as you mention". This was all i argued about - if you still do not understand this please read this in-depth analysis (in german):
http://www.prad.de/new/monitore/spec.../inputlag.html

Also before you claimed you need just one photo: "You're using the CRT number to find out what the actual number that should be displayed at the time of taking the photo would be if there was no input lag.". Now you learned that "you may need to take a dozen or so photos". Also you fail to acknowledge that many people game with their PS4, XBOX ONE or PC in normal HD resolution. Attacking me for measuring those numbers and pointing to a a neat, cheap and accurate device to do so seems strange. The straw you cling to is 4K gaming which in my world does not make the measurements at other resolution "meaningless". Zombie does a lot of projector testing, and i thought it would be a nice addition to his testing arsenal instead of going through all the hoops with the CRT/CAMERA method as the device is not very well known here. And finally, i provided actual HD measurements while you provided nothing. I am curiously awating your 4K measuremnts with the CRT/CAMERA method. This will be my last post on this subject.
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post #3888 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 12:16 PM
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I know about this device, I just don't see the need when i've gotten consistent results that match many others with my current setup. I have no problem averaging 20+ samples.

The original response to my discussion on this makes the CRT method appear antiquated when it turns out that hdtvtest has to include both during plasma test due to some issue with how the device works on plasmas. They also state you have to now ask if the measurements were done via CRT or the Leo Bodnar device since the # typically don't match up. That can add a bit of confusion when discussing lag time as most will not pay attention how it was measured.

so we don't bore people to death on this relatively dry topic, I'll post your original info on the lag time since a number of people were asking.

"The new firmware update to version 1.1 is up on the german and uk sony pro sites for the 500ES. It has a new menu option to reduce input lag (among some other useful additions). With the 1.006 firmware I measured 1080p@60 input lag at 116.2ms (top), 120ms (middle) and 124.4ms (bottom). With the 1.1 firmware and input lag reduction turned on I measured the input lag as 33.8ms (top), 35ms (middle) and 38ms (bottom)"

The conclusion is, Sony has clearly made an improvement with this new firmware setting. 1 year after the release of the projector which is impressive. Most co's stop with the firmware updates a few months after the release as they move their interest and resources towards the next year's models.
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post #3889 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 12:17 PM
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Its good that you learned something. Before you claimed: "Changing the resolution on the CRT won't change the number on the CRT when you take it's photo which is why a 4K input is not necessary.". Now you got wiser and admit that it does matter - and YES it is true also for dual head output - quote:"The PC output/conversion may add small lag to the output as you mention". This was all i argued about - if you still do not understand this please read this in-depth analysis (in german):
http://www.prad.de/new/monitore/spec.../inputlag.html

Also before you claimed you need just one photo: "You're using the CRT number to find out what the actual number that should be displayed at the time of taking the photo would be if there was no input lag.". Now you learned that "you may need to take a dozen or so photos". Also you fail to acknowledge that many people game with their PS4, XBOX ONE or PC in normal HD resolution. Attacking me for measuring those numbers and pointing to a a neat, cheap and accurate device to do so seems strange. The straw you cling to is 4K gaming which in my world does not make the measurements at other resolution "meaningless". Zombie does a lot of projector testing, and i thought it would be a nice addition to his testing arsenal instead of going through all the hoops with the CRT/CAMERA method as the device is not very well known here. And finally, i provided actual HD measurements while you provided nothing. I am curiously awating your 4K measuremnts with the CRT/CAMERA method. This will be my last post on this subject.
Hmmmm and yet you've curiously stopped trying to claim the input on the CRT needs to be 4K. Have you learned something today? I never claimed you need one photo. Why would I acknowledge about console gamers when the conversation was solely about finding the input lag from a 4K input. Your claim was that 'I already told everybody what the input lag is.' My initial response was to tell you we don't have the whole picture yet because we don't know what the input lag is on a native 4K input and somehow we've gotten to this point where you're quoting out of context sentences to make me look ridiculous. Those quotes are out of context because you've made the assumption that because I didn't explain myself fully in the previous post that I didn't already know the things in the next post. I knew the CRT test is not 100% accurate. I knew there is a small (arguably trivial) amount of other "lag" introduced in the chain before it reaches the CRT. I knew you needed to take more than one photo to make an accurate assessment on what the input lag is. The only thing I've been trying to point out is that your device will not work properly for those who want to know the input lag with a 4K input. It's really as simple as that and that's all I care about. I didn't want people thinking that the numbers you posted will be the correct ones for those wanting to know what the 4K input lag will be. It may be only 10ms different from a 1080p input or it may turn out to be the same exact number but we won't know for sure until someone does the test with a CRT.

Knowing the input lag is also important for home theater related things as well. If you want to get the audio to properly sync with the video doing the CRT test is a good number to know to set the proper audio delay in your avr or pre/pro.

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post #3890 of 4169 Old 11-01-2014, 01:43 PM
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Anyone? I really want to check out the improved lag. I also tried again disconnecting the hdmi cable, still a no go. I guess I need to go out and buy a new usb drive? I really hate to call Sony for this.
Sure enough, it was the usb stick. Just bought an 8GB PNY stick and updated just fine. Very happy!
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post #3891 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
If you do not want to be asking "how can I get 8K to my new 8K projector" in a few years, then install a conduit, if required to be able to change out HDMI later.
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Originally Posted by clausdk View Post
If very troublesome to install later consider:

12v triggers
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IR
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I personally would always run Cat6 (LAN), USB and rs-232 to be ready for any f/w update or control scenario.


Ideally you want to run a duct in ceiling so you can upgrade easily any cable, especially HDMI which change fairly regularly.

Thanks guys.

The way I am building the ceiling and beams, it's not possible to have an 'accessible' conduit that is also not visible. Because every part of the ceiling is locked dead.

Let's just say it's going to involve a LOT of breaking things apart and putting them together and they'll never look the same again as a whole if i had to run another cable thru.

Additional question:

USB: What is this for? If it's just to hook the projector to a computer to do some settings, etc, then i don't need a concealed USB, i just hook up a USB whenever i need to use it or take the projector down.

CAT6: I have cat6 run to the control center where all the players, receivers, etc are located. Do i need one to the projector? All the processing are done at the 'media player' if i wanted to watch YouTube for instance, and then goes into my receiver, which then outputs via a HDMI to the projector. So, am I missing something here?

12V triggers: I intend to unplug the projector when not in use (for fear of lightning and power surge which happens a lot in my country as our grid is not protected).
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post #3892 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 06:34 AM
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I know about this device, I just don't see the need when i've gotten consistent results that match many others with my current setup. I have no problem averaging 20+ samples.
Well I do. I had to get out my abacus to add all the samples up (one can not use a slide rule for addition) then I had to divide using my slide rule. My average really can only be read accurately off the rule for two places to the right of the decimal. Also if one averages a standard deviation needs to be published along with the average result. This is a true pain in the rectum. Subtraction, squaring, taking sq roots. using the abacus and slide rule, very very tedious.

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post #3893 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 07:29 AM
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Thanks guys.

The way I am building the ceiling and beams, it's not possible to have an 'accessible' conduit that is also not visible. Because every part of the ceiling is locked dead.

Let's just say it's going to involve a LOT of breaking things apart and putting them together and they'll never look the same again as a whole if i had to run another cable thru.

Additional question:

USB: What is this for? If it's just to hook the projector to a computer to do some settings, etc, then i don't need a concealed USB, i just hook up a USB whenever i need to use it or take the projector down.

CAT6: I have cat6 run to the control center where all the players, receivers, etc are located. Do i need one to the projector? All the processing are done at the 'media player' if i wanted to watch YouTube for instance, and then goes into my receiver, which then outputs via a HDMI to the projector. So, am I missing something here?

12V triggers: I intend to unplug the projector when not in use (for fear of lightning and power surge which happens a lot in my country as our grid is not protected).

USB is usually for f/w update.


CAT6 can be for f/w update or for remote control. For example, iRule uses CAT6 to control many devices and displays including most JVC and SONY PJs. MyMovies controls JVC projectors and might control SONY ones at some point.


12V is to trigger external devices automatically, for example an electric screen or curtains or back out blinds, so that these unfold/fold automatically as you switch the PJ on or off.

Thing is you never know what your next model might need, so it's a good idea to run them all just in case while the ceiling is open, especially if you can't run a duct (or a conduit as Mike likes to call them ) for easy upgrade. Make sure you test the HDMI cable with the projector at the length you're going to need, and that it's certified for 18Gbs. The Sony won't need that bandwidth as it's got a limited 10.2 GB/s HDMI 2.0 level B interface, but whatever you replace it with in a few years will need at least full HDMI 2.0 level A bandwidth (18Gb/s). We'll probably be using HDMI 2.x by then, but the bandwidth requirements are likely to stay the same for a while.


You might also want to run an HDMI cable with Ethernet as it's possible future displays will support this (it hasn't really caught yet).
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post #3894 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
USB is usually for f/w update.


CAT6 can be for f/w update or for remote control. For example, iRule uses CAT6 to control many devices and displays including most JVC and SONY PJs. MyMovies controls JVC projectors and might control SONY ones at some point.


12V is to trigger external devices automatically, for example an electric screen or curtains or back out blinds, so that these unfold/fold automatically as you switch the PJ on or off.

Thing is you never know what your next model might need, so it's a good idea to run them all just in case while the ceiling is open, especially if you can't run a duct (or a conduit as Mike likes to call them ) for easy upgrade. Make sure you test the HDMI cable with the projector at the length you're going to need, and that it's certified for 18Gbs. The Sony won't need that bandwidth as it's got a limited 10.2 GB/s HDMI 2.0 level B interface, but whatever you replace it with in a few years will need at least full HDMI 2.0 level A bandwidth (18Gb/s). We'll probably be using HDMI 2.x by then, but the bandwidth requirements are likely to stay the same for a while.


You might also want to run an HDMI cable with Ethernet as it's possible future displays will support this (it hasn't really caught yet).
And how would one go about finding out if a HDMI cable is capable of 18gbps or not? They all says hdmi 2.0, high speed.
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post #3895 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 08:24 AM
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And how would one go about finding out if a HDMI cable is capable of 18gbps or not? They all says hdmi 2.0, high speed.
There are a few for 18 Gbps but they are 15' or shorter.
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post #3896 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 08:26 AM
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There are a few for 18 Gbps but they are 15' or shorter.
15 feet is too short. Can't reach my projector.

I found this on Amazon, it's 24awg (I am assuming the thicker cable is what makes it work?)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anyone tested these?
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post #3897 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 08:33 AM
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15 feet is too short. Can't reach my projector.
Ah, had been awhile since I looked for 18 Gbps cables. Some fairly long RedMere cables here.
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post #3898 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 08:37 AM
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Ah, had been awhile since I looked for 18 Gbps cables. Some fairly long RedMere cables here.
Thanks.
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post #3899 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 09:03 AM
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And how would one go about finding out if a HDMI cable is capable of 18gbps or not? They all says hdmi 2.0, high speed.

Yes, the source Wendell suggested is one option (by the way there is no HDMI 2.x cables, only high speed cable, they add the HDMI x.x but it's not part of the cable specs), but you still need to check that the cables works with your equipment BEFORE running them into the ceiling. Especially long runs can be tricky, with HDMI 2.0 full bandwidth you need cables with booster/equalizers but depending on the equipment you connect you can get issues. So try to future proof by getting 18Gb/s certified cables, but still make sure it works with whatever you're using right now. Especially using a 4K protected source to HDMI 2 into the Sony.

Last edited by Manni01; 11-02-2014 at 12:53 PM.
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post #3900 of 4169 Old 11-02-2014, 12:28 PM
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My 2 HDMI cables for my 500ES are 36' and they work fine for 4K from the X10.
I made a straight run from the PJ to the rack so if I ever need to replace them it very easy jusy to pull the new ones through the 2" PVC pipe.

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