Official Sony VPL-VW500ES / VW600ES 4K Projector Thread - Page 163 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:12 PM
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My 300ES has an issue with warm up blue convergence. It takes about 20-30 minutes to go away. Is this considered bad?

I know its not a 500ES but looks like the issue is there on the 300/350


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Old 04-13-2015, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Eventidal View Post
Just to let you know, I actually own one... And it has Firmware 1.200a onboard and it is has been delivered as European version, even if the label says Japan...
Interesting -- seems to me that the "Sx" may be more indicative of the intended market for sale - versus a revision number.

BTW - when you say "1.200a" ... do you mean "1.20A"?? That is the firmware that was loaded on my "S1".
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
My 300ES has an issue with warm up blue convergence. It takes about 20-30 minutes to go away. Is this considered bad?

I know its not a 500ES but looks like the issue is there on the 300/350

That's pretty bad IMO...maybe you want to do some panel alignment in the settings.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by desray2k View Post
That's pretty bad IMO...maybe you want to do some panel alignment in the settings.

Oh I can get it perfect using the alignment but we all know its better if I don't have to do that.


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Old 04-13-2015, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javs View Post
My 300ES has an issue with warm up blue convergence. It takes about 20-30 minutes to go away. Is this considered bad?

I know its not a 500ES but looks like the issue is there on the 300/350

Quote:
Originally Posted by desray2k View Post
That's pretty bad IMO...maybe you want to do some panel alignment in the settings.
Don't touch panel alignment, until the projector has warmed up for an hour. Then adjust if needed/wanted. All projectors have to warm up and any 3-panel projector is going to need longer warming up, than a single chip. What you want to see is if the projector, once warmed up looks good from your viewing distance, not from 3' or 4' away. You also want to see if, once warmed up, it goes to the same place for convergence each time.

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Old 04-13-2015, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by desray2k View Post
That's pretty bad IMO...maybe you want to do some panel alignment in the settings.
Please note, he said his projector was not warmed up. All 3-panel projectors will not look their best, for convergence, when warming up.

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Old 04-13-2015, 09:10 AM
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Please note, he said his projector was not warmed up. All 3-panel projectors will not look their best, for convergence, when warming up.

Correct, after 30-40 minutes the blue settles but still roughly 2 pixels out. I used panel alignment on the blue by a full 2 pixels up and one full pixel to the right, then it looks perfect. I used the tool because I could see green fringing even when it warmed up. I sit pretty close.

I am still in the process of DOA swapping my unit for the stuck pixel issue so hoping my replacement also has better convergence and I wont have to use the alignment tool.


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Old 04-13-2015, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
Correct, after 30-40 minutes the blue settles but still roughly 2 pixels out. I used panel alignment on the blue by a full 2 pixels up and one full pixel to the right, then it looks perfect. I used the tool because I could see green fringing even when it warmed up. I sit pretty close.

I am still in the process of DOA swapping my unit for the stuck pixel issue so hoping my replacement also has better convergence and I wont have to use the alignment tool.


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Glad you are getting it swapped out. Just to clarify - when you say you need two full pixels up and one pixel over to fix the convergence - is that once it is warmed, or do you mean you need to do that if you want to make it look converged when cold? Two pixels up and one over is a huge amount of misconvergence IMO.
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Old 04-13-2015, 03:41 PM
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Glad you are getting it swapped out. Just to clarify - when you say you need two full pixels up and one pixel over to fix the convergence - is that once it is warmed, or do you mean you need to do that if you want to make it look converged when cold? Two pixels up and one over is a huge amount of misconvergence IMO.

This is when its totally warmed up, and when I say warm I mean its the same after running a couple of full length films.

Blue is 20 notches up and 10 left which is 2+1 pixels according to you guys.

Anyway hoping the new one is good, clearly my unit is a lemon.


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Old 04-13-2015, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
This is when its totally warmed up, and when I say warm I mean its the same after running a couple of full length films.

Blue is 20 notches up and 10 left which is 2+1 pixels according to you guys.

Anyway hoping the new one is good, clearly my unit is a lemon.


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Yeap...that sounds pretty bad. Hope you "new" unit will be better.

And yes, you should only adjust the panel AFTER its been warmed up. My unit is very good...even when I start up the projector. blue pixel shift is at its minimal.
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:23 PM
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This is when its totally warmed up, and when I say warm I mean its the same after running a couple of full length films.

Blue is 20 notches up and 10 left which is 2+1 pixels according to you guys.

Anyway hoping the new one is good, clearly my unit is a lemon.


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I don't think it's considered a lemon. Definitely not optimal performance. But most don't get perfect convergence and I believe 2 pixels off is still within Sony's quality control limits.
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:25 PM
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I don't think it's considered a lemon. Definitely not optimal performance. But most don't get perfect convergence and I believe 2 pixels off is still within Sony's quality control limits.

I think you are probably right, if these were 1080p pixels we are talking about it would barely be one pixel out in reality.

A couple 4k pixels out is not so bad.



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Old 04-13-2015, 04:30 PM
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I think you are probably right, if these were 1080p pixels we are talking about it would barely be one pixel out in reality.

A couple 4k pixels out is not so bad.



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Normally I only care about misconvergence if it's actually visible from my seating distance. It goes the same for using the convergence software. I dont enabled it if I can't see the misconvergence. Because the software alters the video, not the panels themselves. Aka don't use it if it doesn't visibly bother you. If you can see it with video content I'd say definitely look into getting a new unit.
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Old 04-14-2015, 12:53 AM
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[QUOTE=Skrill;33445370]Interesting -- seems to me that the "Sx" may be more indicative of the intended market for sale - versus a revision number.

Nope, it has to do with serial numbers!
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Old 04-14-2015, 05:55 AM
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[quote=Eventidal;33467530]
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Interesting -- seems to me that the "Sx" may be more indicative of the intended market for sale - versus a revision number.

Nope, it has to do with serial numbers!
Hmm - you seem so confident in your statement - but my unit was labeled "VW500ES1", has a "120XXXX" serial, and was factory loaded with firmware 1.20A.
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Old 04-15-2015, 04:07 AM
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Thanks Michael, I'll let you know how it goes.
Just received the unit back from Sony. They replaced the Optical Block.


The projector is now working fine again and has also improved the blue shift, focus and the ability to adjust the red properly. It came back with firmware 1.10 still loaded.


Cheers
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Old 04-15-2015, 04:40 AM
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Just received the unit back from Sony. They replaced the Optical Block.


The projector is now working fine again and has also improved the blue shift, focus and the ability to adjust the red properly. It came back with firmware 1.10 still loaded.


Cheers
How long did the repair take? Remind me, was this a 600 or 500?
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:21 AM
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Just received the unit back from Sony. They replaced the Optical Block.


The projector is now working fine again and has also improved the blue shift, focus and the ability to adjust the red properly. It came back with firmware 1.10 still loaded.


Cheers

That's good news. And that is the current firmware.

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Old 04-15-2015, 10:06 AM
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And that is the current firmware.
Except for 1.20A right? I know it seems like Sony hasn't stated much about it or made it available for download -- but wouldn't 1.20A be the most current firmware?
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:13 AM
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Except for 1.20A right? I know it seems like Sony hasn't stated much about it or made it available for download -- but wouldn't 1.20A be the most current firmware?
I haven't seen that version available to download from Sony. And someone gets their projector back from Sony with version 1.10. That tells me that 1.10 is current. 1.20A ? Vaporware. Or not for the US market perhaps.

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Old 04-15-2015, 10:15 AM
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I haven't seen that version available to download from Sony. And someone gets their projector back from Sony with version 1.10. That tells me that 1.10 is current. 1.20A ? Vaporware. Or not for the US market perhaps.
Bingo.

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Old 04-15-2015, 10:22 AM
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I haven't seen that version available to download from Sony. And someone gets their projector back from Sony with version 1.10. That tells me that 1.10 is current. 1.20A ? Vaporware. Or not for the US market perhaps.
The later may be true (i.e, not for US market) -- but it certainly isn't vaporware. I can attest to that. I still would love to see the release notes on 1.20A (and know what it does different than 1.10 - if anything).
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Old 04-15-2015, 01:40 PM
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The later may be true (i.e, not for US market) -- but it certainly isn't vaporware. I can attest to that. I still would love to see the release notes on 1.20A (and know what it does different than 1.10 - if anything).

My feeling about firmware is if your ( fill in the blank - projector, Blu Ray player etc. ) is working just fine, don't fix it.

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Old 04-15-2015, 03:31 PM
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How long did the repair take? Remind me, was this a 600 or 500?

Mine was a very early build 500. The repair with Sony took exactly a week (including shipping both ways to Sydney) and I have to say was completely painless. They couldn't have been more helpful.


Thanks for the help here too guys. Appreciated.


Cheers
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Old 04-15-2015, 03:38 PM
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Mine was a very early build 500. The repair with Sony took exactly a week (including shipping both ways to Sydney) and I have to say was completely painless. They couldn't have been more helpful.


Thanks for the help here too guys. Appreciated.


Cheers
That's good to hear, both that it's sorted out and that they made it painless.
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Eventidal View Post
Just to let you know, I actually own one... And it has Firmware 1.200a onboard and it is has been delivered as European version, even if the label says Japan...
You know - I just checked my unit, and you are right. The firmware is "1.200 A" as noted in the menu information screen.
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Old 04-16-2015, 05:29 AM
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Does anyone know what throw distance I would need for the Schneider Cine Digitar 1.33x? I have found info on the Sony VW50 but not the 600 (I am at about 17 feet with my UH480).
Would this be an upgrade from my UH480?


Thanks.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by MX48 View Post
Does anyone know what throw distance I would need for the Schneider Cine Digitar 1.33x? I have found info on the Sony VW50 but not the 600 (I am at about 17 feet with my UH480).
Would this be an upgrade from my UH480?


Thanks.
Screen size?

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Old 04-16-2015, 07:07 AM
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Sorry, thought I put that in there. 170" wide.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:13 AM
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Does anyone know what throw distance I would need for the Schneider Cine Digitar 1.33x? I have found info on the Sony VW50 but not the 600 (I am at about 17 feet with my UH480).
Would this be an upgrade from my UH480?


Thanks.
The Schneider Optics CD 1.33x is a horizontal expansion lens. From basically the same distance as what the projector on its own could do, this anamorphic lens will shorten that length by 1.33x (you just need to factor in the extra length of the anamorphic lens, that's why I said 'basically the same distance'). So as an example, if you were using a 100" wide screen, the Sony on it's own (with it's 1.31 - 2.68 lens) could fill that screen if the lens is placed anywhere from 131 inches to 268 inches. But add in the anamorphic lens and it shortens the throw by 1.33x so you'd be close to 98 inches to 202 inches with the lens in place.

I think the Cine Digitar is better in terms of pincushion over the UH480. I've had both here. The UH480 can accommodate shorter throws however before vignetting occurs. Both are excellent in terms or retaining image sharpness.
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