Official Sony VPL-VW500ES / VW600ES 4K Projector Thread - Page 171 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5101 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chappieman View Post
Been reading up on the newly announced 4K spec & to a layman like me it's completely confusing..
Will this pj be compatible or not?
Just wondering if i've bought in to this thing too early, even this thread seems pretty quiet.
Are people that own this considering jumping ship??
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Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
Sort of. It had HDMI ports that support HDCP 2.2 and 10 bit color and the panels themselves can display 10bit color. The projector does not support a color gamut larger than REC709 so you won't be able to take advantage of any movie released with meta-data that creates a color gamut larger than REC709 as per SMPTE 2084. For that you'd need to step up to the VPL-VW1100ES with it's P3 color filter. Arguably the only thing the 1100ES will miss out on in this initial phase of UHD blu-ray is HDR, but I suspect projectors in general won't be able to do HDR for a while considering how much brighter a display needs to be to do HDR. If we do see this feature in projectors it will most likely necessitate the use of a fairly small screen.

So it supports SOME features, but not all of them.
To add to this, screen size, room conditions and screen gain will have to be considered for use of the P3 filter, since it cuts light output 30 to 35%. So if your screen is large and low gain and/or have a lot of ambient light, (mine fits this category, large/low gain) then you might not be able to use the filter.

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Last edited by Mike Garrett; 05-22-2015 at 08:23 AM.
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post #5102 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 07:49 AM
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Correct. Though with a new bulb you can still get 1200+ color accurate lumens from the 1100ES (high lamp mode) with the P3 filter in place. That's still brighter than most home theater projectors out there.
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post #5103 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
True, but the actual cost was less for the Lumis repair ! My point being that Sim's repair charges are extremely reasonable IMO.
I have a much different experience then again I am not a dealer!!
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post #5104 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by wse View Post
I have a much different experience then again I am not a dealer!!
I do not think Craig was a dealer at the time.

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post #5105 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by wse View Post
I have a much different experience then again I am not a dealer!!

I bought the Lumis, then had it serviced a year after I had left AV Science. Perhaps you should have bought your Sim projector through AV Science - having a good dealer that stands behind you can make all the difference !

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post #5106 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
To add to this, screen size, room conditions and screen gain will have to be considered for use of the P3 filter, since it cuts light output 30 to 35%. So if your screen is large and low gain and/or have a lot of ambient light, (mine fits this category, large/low gain) then you might not be able to use the filter.
Not that easy this pj game, seems a lot of variables to deal with..
Is anyone with one of these considering a new pj when they get announced, or are you still happy with this Sony?
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post #5107 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chappieman View Post
Not that easy this pj game, seems a lot of variables to deal with..
Is anyone with one of these considering a new pj when they get announced, or are you still happy with this Sony?
Perfectly happy with my 600. I am not recommending anyone to upgrade from a 350 or 600.

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post #5108 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chappieman View Post
Not that easy this pj game, seems a lot of variables to deal with..
Is anyone with one of these considering a new pj when they get announced, or are you still happy with this Sony?
I too am happy with my VW600. The improvement year to year in projectors is small and incremental at best. If there are giant leaps forward, they come with giant price tags !

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post #5109 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
I too am happy with my VW600. The improvement year to year in projectors is small and incremental at best. If there are giant leaps forward, they come with giant price tags !
Yeah i guess so, many thanks for your replies..

Just one last one, can anyone recommend some settings, i keep having a play but not really a clue what i'm doing, i realise everyone's will be different due to room & screen etc, but it would be appreciated none the less.

I will have it fully calibrated professionally once i have it set up in my other room that's being revamped.

All the best
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post #5110 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chappieman View Post
Yeah i guess so, many thanks for your replies..

Just one last one, can anyone recommend some settings, i keep having a play but not really a clue what i'm doing, i realise everyone's will be different due to room & screen etc, but it would be appreciated none the less.

I will have it fully calibrated professionally once i have it set up in my other room that's being revamped.

All the best
Not Craig, but you can try these:

Reference mode is best - by far (others are pretty bad for shadow details tracking)
D65 for sure, until you calibrate
Color space 3
Color - 42
Contrast - 97
Sharpness - 0
Hue - 50/middle
Brightness - 52 with Contrast Enhancer Off, or
Brightness - 54 with Contrast Enhancer Low
Gama 2.4 or 2.2 - I am still experimenting
RC On, with low settings
Motion either Smooth Low or True Cinema, avoid Impulse and Combination as they reduce light output and native contrast

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post #5111 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Not Craig, but you can try these:

Reference mode is best - by far (others are pretty bad for shadow details tracking)
D65 for sure, until you calibrate
Color space 3
Color - 42
Contrast - 97
Sharpness - 0
Hue - 50/middle
Brightness - 52 with Contrast Enhancer Off, or
Brightness - 54 with Contrast Enhancer Low
Gama 2.4 or 2.2 - I am still experimenting
RC On, with low settings
Motion either Smooth Low or True Cinema, avoid Impulse and Combination as they reduce light output and native contrast
Many thanks, i 'll give those a whirl
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post #5112 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 12:42 PM
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In terms of vertical lens shift, how far can the 600es be mounted beneath a screen if it is placed 13' from a 120" screen?
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post #5113 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cmryan821 View Post
In terms of vertical lens shift, how far can the 600es be mounted beneath a screen if it is placed 13' from a 120" screen?
Has nothing to do with throw. It works off of screen height. If your screen is 59" high and you have the lens centered horizontally, then you have around 85% lens shift. So the projector lens can be 85% of the screen height above the center of the screen, all the way to 85% of screen height below center of the screen.

Added
So .85 x 59" = 50". So you have 100" of total length to work with. Another way of putting it. Anywhere from 20.5" above the top of the image to 20.5" below the bottom of the image. Now this projector like most projectors that have lens shift, gives you more than you should ever use. Try to get the lens so that it fits within the top and bottom of the image for best results.

Sony also has an ios or android App that can be downloaded, that will give you this information.

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Last edited by Mike Garrett; 05-22-2015 at 01:23 PM.
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post #5114 of 6171 Old 05-22-2015, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Has nothing to do with throw. It works off of screen height. If your screen is 59" high and you have the lens centered horizontally, then you have around 85% lens shift. So the projector lens can be 85% of the screen height above the center of the screen, all the way to 85% of screen height below center of the screen.

Added
So .85 x 59" = 50". So you have 100" of total length to work with. Another way of putting it. Anywhere from 20.5" above the top of the image to 20.5" below the bottom of the image. Now this projector like most projectors that have lens shift, gives you more than you should ever use. Try to get the lens so that it fits within the top and bottom of the image for best results.

Sony also has an ios or android App that can be downloaded, that will give you this information.
Ah, I see. Thank you very much Mike.
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post #5115 of 6171 Old 06-01-2015, 05:26 PM
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Replaced my lamp last weekend, had 2400 hours on the old lamp (which is still working).
A sizable increase in brightness. (duh!) Probably won't wait so long to replace it next time.
Sorry I don't have the equipment to test the actual lumen change.


Paul
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post #5116 of 6171 Old 06-01-2015, 05:42 PM
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My 500ES lamp has just gone over 1830hrs and it looks good still.
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post #5117 of 6171 Old 06-01-2015, 05:50 PM
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My 500ES lamp has just gone over 1830hrs and it looks good still.
Did u use the auto iris to keep brightness constant during the 2400 hr run? Did you run on high bright or low lamp setting?

If you were not testing the light output, what triggered the change?
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post #5118 of 6171 Old 06-01-2015, 06:01 PM
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I run have always run it in low lamp and I turned brightness down to about 20 as my throw is only 14ft and its still nice and bright.
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post #5119 of 6171 Old 06-01-2015, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by PBonn View Post
Replaced my lamp last weekend, had 2400 hours on the old lamp (which is still working).
A sizable increase in brightness. (duh!) Probably won't wait so long to replace it next time.
Sorry I don't have the equipment to test the actual lumen change.
Did you try an auto-calibration with the old bulb? I did this when my bulb went over 1000 hours and it nudged up the white level a bit (but didn't change the color balance at all). Just curious; I expect 2400 hours is a reasonable lifetime.
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post #5120 of 6171 Old 06-02-2015, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PBonn View Post
Replaced my lamp last weekend, had 2400 hours on the old lamp (which is still working).
A sizable increase in brightness. (duh!) Probably won't wait so long to replace it next time.
Sorry I don't have the equipment to test the actual lumen change.

Paul

That's a good amount of hours - I'd be plenty happy with 2400 hours !

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post #5121 of 6171 Old 06-02-2015, 05:10 PM
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Did you try an auto-calibration with the old bulb? I did this when my bulb went over 1000 hours and it nudged up the white level a bit (but didn't change the color balance at all). Just curious; I expect 2400 hours is a reasonable lifetime.
To be honest, I'm still blown away with the quality of the picture, and I haven't even bothered with running a test disc (I have used test discs with all other projectors I've owned, which include a Sony vpl hs 20, Sony vpl 100 (the Ruby), Panasonic 3000, and Sony vpl 85) I also haven't needed to adjust the convergence. I will say my eyes aren't what they once were...I'm 57 now.
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post #5122 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Not Craig, but you can try these:

Reference mode is best - by far (others are pretty bad for shadow details tracking)
D65 for sure, until you calibrate
Color space 3
Color - 42
Contrast - 97
Sharpness - 0
Hue - 50/middle
Brightness - 52 with Contrast Enhancer Off, or
Brightness - 54 with Contrast Enhancer Low
Gama 2.4 or 2.2 - I am still experimenting
RC On, with low settings
Motion either Smooth Low or True Cinema, avoid Impulse and Combination as they reduce light output and native contrast
And what about lamp (presume low) and iris? Thanks
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post #5123 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 11:55 AM
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2 stupid questions, one of which is subjective...

1. Should I drop $5k more for this vs. the 350 series? I see the differences on paper, but what are the real use benefits?

2. Does HDMI 2.2 need a new type of HDMI cable, or are 2.0 cables sufficient? Running one through the ceiling to pop out at an AV rack, so obviously I want to use the right type of cable!

Thanks so much
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post #5124 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jare View Post
And what about lamp (presume low) and iris? Thanks

I'd run the lamp in low to begin with - it's plenty bright on my 128" diagonal 2.35:1 screen ! Of course if you have a really big screen, you may need high lamp. Use a light meter and adjust for preferred brightness.

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post #5125 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wired1 View Post
2 stupid questions, one of which is subjective...

1. Should I drop $5k more for this vs. the 350 series? I see the differences on paper, but what are the real use benefits?

2. Does HDMI 2.2 need a new type of HDMI cable, or are 2.0 cables sufficient? Running one through the ceiling to pop out at an AV rack, so obviously I want to use the right type of cable!

Thanks so much
I can't answer the first one since i don't have the experience but i will say the auto zoom and lens memory is good and if i remember correctly, the 300es cut those to bring cost down. But, check into BlueJeans or Belden cables. Nice writeup on Bluejeans cable about 2.0 vs 2.2. Bottom line. Their 2.0 cable easily meets the requirements for 2.2
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post #5126 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wired1 View Post
2 stupid questions, one of which is subjective...

1. Should I drop $5k more for this vs. the 350 series? I see the differences on paper, but what are the real use benefits?

2. Does HDMI 2.2 need a new type of HDMI cable, or are 2.0 cables sufficient? Running one through the ceiling to pop out at an AV rack, so obviously I want to use the right type of cable!

Thanks so much

Better contrast, better blacks. That is worth the extra money for me personally.

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post #5127 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 12:40 PM
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I see several setting recommendations where contrast is really cranked up.(recent post by Jare) When i tried these higher contrast settings, (with brightness at about 50-51), and i ran an old calibration program (really designed for HD and not 4K, HD essentials), it shows the whites are off (ie cant distinguish the subtle whites on the black/White bars). My question is there a better program to use for these newer projectors? HD essentials was my standard for my first HD projector but its a little dated. HOwever i would think the concept of the black/white screen would hold even with the 4k projector. My contrast was closer to 60 based on the test i did
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post #5128 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oilmanmojo View Post
I see several setting recommendations where contrast is really cranked up.(recent post by Jare) When i tried these higher contrast settings, (with brightness at about 50-51), and i ran an old calibration program (really designed for HD and not 4K, HD essentials), it shows the whites are off (ie cant distinguish the subtle whites on the black/White bars). My question is there a better program to use for these newer projectors? HD essentials was my standard for my first HD projector but its a little dated. HOwever i would think the concept of the black/white screen would hold even with the 4k projector. My contrast was closer to 60 based on the test i did
Sorry, i meant 70 contrast not 60, hit the wrong key
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post #5129 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 02:13 PM
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My contrast is at 89, based on S&M disc, while brightness is at 51. Use S&M, it is great.
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post #5130 of 6171 Old 06-03-2015, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Reference mode is best - by far (others are pretty bad for shadow details tracking)
Are you suggesting there are inherent and immutable differences between the various modes? If I calibrate in Reference mode, then copy all the settings to, say, TV mode, that the two modes will look different?
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