Official Sony VPL-VW500ES / VW600ES 4K Projector Thread - Page 82 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #2431 of 6149 Old 03-15-2014, 10:23 PM
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If you look it the manual it tells you what you can do with it.
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post #2432 of 6149 Old 03-15-2014, 10:28 PM
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It mentions 3 protocols but none of them is HTTP.

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post #2433 of 6149 Old 03-16-2014, 01:44 AM
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HTTP is not required to send commands to the device. It's not because the protocol is not HTTP that it's not reachable by your network. You have some remote apps that can act as as remote through the network (using the protocols described in the manual) to control it without being in the same room for example. That said I'm not using that feature at the moment and maybe someone that do can give your more specific details.

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post #2434 of 6149 Old 03-16-2014, 10:37 AM
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The point I'm trying to make is that it would be convenient to have an HTTP server on the PJ so ordinary users with web browsers could control it via a GUI. The protocols supported by the PJ are Greek to me.

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post #2435 of 6149 Old 03-16-2014, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post

A) What's the benefit of putting the PJ on a UPS?

During a normal shutdown a projector should turn off power to the lamp but continue to run the fans for a short period in order to cool off the unit. A power loss does not allow this process to proceed. With a UPS you can do a normal shutdown in case of a power failure.

I had a bad brown-out while my projector was in the start-up process and it damaged the unit and will no longer function. This could have been a deliberate act by certain projector dealers because they knew I was in the market for new projector biggrin.gif
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post #2436 of 6149 Old 03-16-2014, 11:48 AM
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Is there a trick to getting the 1.005 firmware to install properly? I've tried 3 separate USB sticks now and the projector boots up to the regular menu screen but not picking up the new firmware. My current firmware is 1.002.
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post #2437 of 6149 Old 03-16-2014, 05:26 PM
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Anyone have the HEX IR codes for HDMI1 and HDMI2? The ones provided by URC do not work and there isn't a HDMI1/2 button on the remote to learn from, only an INPUT button. I will check with Sony directly tomorrow but maybe someone already asked and received or figured it out.

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post #2438 of 6149 Old 03-17-2014, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyal Mellor View Post

Anyone have the HEX IR codes for HDMI1 and HDMI2? The ones provided by URC do not work and there isn't a HDMI1/2 button on the remote to learn from, only an INPUT button. I will check with Sony directly tomorrow but maybe someone already asked and received or figured it out.

What model of URC? Does any of the other URC buttons/commands work?
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post #2439 of 6149 Old 03-17-2014, 11:42 AM
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All works except HDMI1 and HDMI2. Apparently Sony don't have discrete IR codes, so you have to send 'INPUT' then 'ARROW' then 'SELECT'. Less than ideal, as that means you have to remember HDMI input state on the control system and that could easily get out of sync. Unless someone brainy here has figured out a work around?

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post #2440 of 6149 Old 03-17-2014, 01:21 PM
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One possible workaround that worked for me with Samsung; MIGHT work for Sony. I downloaded the Logitech Harmony codes for Samsung and noticed they had discrete codes for HDMI 1 and HDMI 2. I then used a Global Cache IP2IR to learn the discrete codes received from Logitech Harmony. I used the "learned" codes with the GC through home automation software, so didn't have to write them back to another remote. Don't know the format that URC requires, so can't comment on whether the GC will reveal the two commands in a format that you can write to the URC.
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post #2441 of 6149 Old 03-17-2014, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wendell R. Breland View Post

During a normal shutdown a projector should turn off power to the lamp but continue to run the fans for a short period in order to cool off the unit. A power loss does not allow this process to proceed. With a UPS you can do a normal shutdown in case of a power failure.

I had a bad brown-out while my projector was in the start-up process and it damaged the unit and will no longer function. This could have been a deliberate act by certain projector dealers because they knew I was in the market for new projector biggrin.gif

Here I was thinking that that scheduled brownout I requested did not happen. Thank you for the confirmation. Sorry to hear about your projector.
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post #2442 of 6149 Old 03-17-2014, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oronomus View Post

One possible workaround that worked for me with Samsung; MIGHT work for Sony. I downloaded the Logitech Harmony codes for Samsung and noticed they had discrete codes for HDMI 1 and HDMI 2.

 

The Harmony codes for the 600ES do not have discrete inputs, unfortunately.

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post #2443 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 12:03 PM
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So I went with a 2:35 screen. Did I make a mistake. It's bothering me that the image isn't filling screen on most content. What have others gone with?
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post #2444 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baziado View Post

So I went with a 2:35 screen. Did I make a mistake. It's bothering me that the image isn't filling screen on most content. What have others gone with?

Then consider getting a drop down 16:9 screen, the size that you want and use both. That way, you have a large 2.35 with no black bars and a large 16:9 with no black bars.

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post #2445 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baziado View Post

So I went with a 2:35 screen. Did I make a mistake. It's bothering me that the image isn't filling screen on most content. What have others gone with?

 

I have gone with 1.85 (16/9) since well... it can also take a 2.35 movie (with the inconvenience of black bars top and bottom) but not the other way around, and I'm not using projectors exclusively for movie watching. I can understand the 2.35 for someone watching only movies as most of them are in this format.

 

Another thing that made me choose a 16/9 screen is that more and more movies are shot for imax or mixes the 2 (Batman)... and imax movies are then put to 16/9 on Blurays.

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post #2446 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 12:49 PM
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I have a 2:35 screen and it works perfectly. Most of the time I am watching movies (99% are 2:35 or 2:40) except during college football which are 16:9 and then I have two choices: (1) fill up the screen and lose a bit at the top and bottom (I use vertical stretch and an A-Lens or; (b) use masking. On my first 2;35 screen, I built add-on masks but then purchased an automated masking system.

If I watched mostly TV, I would have opted for a 16:9 and used horizontal masks to get rid of the black bars for movies. ( I would never be able to live with the black bars either on the sides or top/bottom)

There is no right answer for everyone.
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post #2447 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 01:33 PM
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I find interesting that even the 2:35 does not fill the screen as many movies are rated 2:35 but are 2:40?

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post #2448 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

I find interesting that even the 2:35 does not fill the screen as many movies are rated 2:35 but are 2:40?

Just make the image large enough to fill the height of the screen and it over shoots the ends by about 1/2". That is for a 120" wide screen. You will not miss the 1/2" and will not have black bars.

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post #2449 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Just make the image large enough to fill the height of the screen and it over shoots the ends by about 1/2". That is for a 120" wide screen. You will not miss the 1/2" and will not have black bars.
You didn't specifically mention this, but just so nobody misses it, do the above and use the blanking feature on the sides to keep from seeing the overshoot there if you want to make it close to invisible. Helps if it just hits the screen masking or you don't have a light colored wall behind the screen.

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post #2450 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
So I went with a 2:35 screen. Did I make a mistake. It's bothering me that the image isn't filling screen on most content. What have others gone with?

Then consider getting a drop down 16:9 screen, the size that you want and use both. That way, you have a large 2.35 with no black bars and a large 16:9 with no black bars.

That has worked for me. 2 screens = twice the fun ! smile.gif


16:9 and 2.35:1 screens - no aspect ratio compromise either way !
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post #2451 of 6149 Old 03-18-2014, 05:33 PM
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Has anyone had any success with the iOS app "Projector Remote +" from Sony? I cannot get it to detect my 600ES, even when I manually specify the PJ's LAN IP address.
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post #2452 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View PostJust make the image large enough to fill the height of the screen and it over shoots the ends by about 1/2". That is for a 120" wide screen. You will not miss the 1/2" and will not have black bars.

My screen is 10 feet wide so I guess 128" diagonal yes? They should make screen 2:40 rather than 2:35

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post #2453 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 08:57 AM
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My screen is 10 feet wide so I guess 128" diagonal yes? They should make screen 2:40 rather than 2:35

Most screen companies will sell you any ratio screen you wish. But with any choice, there will be overscan either horizontally or vertically if you zoom to get rid of the black bars!
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post #2454 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Expletive View Post

Is there a trick to getting the 1.005 firmware to install properly? I've tried 3 separate USB sticks now and the projector boots up to the regular menu screen but not picking up the new firmware. My current firmware is 1.002.

Anyone been able to upgrade from 1.002 to 1.005 via the USB download? Still unable to have the 600 recognize the USB and update when I power it on...
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post #2455 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 11:43 AM
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I already upgraded my VW500 and no problem with me.

Nuno
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post #2456 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by audioguy View PostMost screen companies will sell you any ratio screen you wish. But with any choice, there will be overscan either horizontally or vertically if you zoom to get rid of the black bars!

Yes the problem is movies fluctuate between 2:35; 2:40; 16:9.......

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post #2457 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 03:43 PM
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Just a reminder for those interested in seeing a VW600ES that are near south central Kentucky: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1519574/ht-demo-in-southern-kentucky-area-march-22nd

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post #2458 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 04:40 PM
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Forgive me if this has been posted before but has anyone ever ordered one of these using **********? For the 500ES they have a very competitive price.

If you have, could you please describe your experience of having one of these to the United States. Feel free to PM me.

Thanks
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post #2459 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Just a reminder for those interested in seeing a VW600ES that are near south central Kentucky: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1519574/ht-demo-in-southern-kentucky-area-march-22nd

I wish I lived closer to Kentucky!!! I haven't heard about about prismasonic before....it's their masking motorized?
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post #2460 of 6149 Old 03-19-2014, 08:27 PM
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I wish I lived closer to Kentucky!!! I haven't heard about about prismasonic before....it's their masking motorized?

Yes, but it is not really designed to be used with other screens. It would be easy to use the flat masking system with a DIY screen or any factory screen, where the fabric fastens on the front using velcro or wraps around the front.

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