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post #1 of 13 Old 10-28-2013, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I've had my RS2 since it was a new product and it's my primary display- at least six hours a night every night. It's run tirelessly needing nothing more than new lamps and the occasional cleaning. I think I'm on my fifth lamp and milked them all for about 3K hours, so it's got a few miles on it. It's run in a dedicated and pretty clean room with its own air handling and filtration.

Recently, it's begun shutting down after running a while. It's pretty random, but of late (after switching to HA mode per below) it's been about every two hours. It's done that before when a lamp was going, but that's always been accompanied with other problems.

I thought maybe the fan was going or had become gunked up. It's still putting out air pretty well, so it's not failed completely. I switched it to "High-Altitude" mode which seems to run the fan more, and seemed to make things a bit better, but not fix the problem.

I tried cleaning it more as well as switching the lamp with a different (admittedly well-used) one, to no avail. Current lamp only has about 1500 hours on it and still looks good. It's a genuine JVC as was the spare. It's not having any of the usual bad-lamp symptoms (problems starting up, that weird clicking/buzzing sound, dim image). Well, unless overheating counts, maybe.

Is the fan easily replaceable? Can it be disassembled cleaned and lubed? Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it? I would totally believe it's due for a new fan just from the amount of use it's had, although it's still putting out air and the fan isn't making any odd noise.

Only suggestion I've seen to remedy this problem is to get a new lamp, but I'm getting skeptical that'll work in this case (since I tried using a different one already). I will try another old one next I get a chance and will likely replace it with a new one if I don't hear any better ideas. I'd certainly like a plan B in case that doesn't fix it, though!
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post #2 of 13 Old 11-01-2013, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Not getting any better advice, I took the thing apart today. It was much easier to get into than posts about similar projectors had led me to believe. Maybe the RS2 is easier?

Once I got inside the duct work I found the fan had a pool of black goo on top of it. this would be the downside as it was operating, so it may have been some kind of runoff. The center of the fan's label was slightly discolored, so, although it runs, I was guessing that replacing it was a good idea.

Local electronic part shop had another 92mm fan, but it's apparently not studly enough. The thing now overheats seconds after starting up.

The original fan is a "Nidec Beta SL Model D09E-12PM 11B". Anyone know where I can get one or a worthy substitute? Quick look at eBay didn't show any obvious contenders.

For now, i'm putting the old one back in and hoping it'll continue to hobble along until I can find a replacement.
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-04-2013, 12:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I took the new fan and strapped it to the exhaust port, rigged up a power source and now the projector is running. At least until the internal fan finally gives out completely. I'm hoping that'll buy me enough time to find a replacement.
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-04-2013, 04:02 PM
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Call up JVC Pro, they should have the part you need, no need to look on Ebay. I have ordered much more complex parts from PJ manufacturers, just get through to the right people.
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-21-2014, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, this is proving to be a lot harder than it should be. The folks on the support line had no part number for the fan for an RS2 (or an HD100), but they had "fan motor" parts QAR0448-001 and QAR0449-001. No description or illustration at all, but I think there's a turbine style fan inside the light path assembly- I'm looking for the box fan by the lamp. Any idea which may be which?

They also had one for some other models that was described as 92x92(mm), which would be right. It's PC0065219U0. So when I look that up, I find it's for the RS- 10, 15, 20, 25, 35 and the HD 250 or 250. Can anyone confirm that this is the same as the one in the RS2/HD100? It's just slightly too expensive for me to be comfortable eating it if it's wrong.
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post #6 of 13 Old 03-12-2014, 03:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Fixed. Had to order both "fan motor"s since I couldn't tell them apart from the (lack of) description. New fan has the same manufacturer part number as the original and works great. (Hope I didn't just jinx myself.)

I assume the other fan is what goes near the exhaust port of the manifold in the center, but with the optics and stuff in there, I hadn't tried opening it. I think I'll keep it too in case I wear that out as well,
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-09-2014, 05:12 AM
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which part #??

I am having exact same problem with fan motor on RS2. My projector started shutting itself off after 30-50 minutes. Now it won't go past point where light is first emitted before shutting down. I can hear there is problem with fan. I called JVC and got the exact same run around. I cannot believe they don't have access to a parts diagram.

Do you know which part # was correct, the 448 or 449 fan?? I appreciate any help.
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-03-2014, 12:12 PM
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JVC DLA-RS2 fan problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnc3737 View Post
I am having exact same problem with fan motor on RS2. My projector started shutting itself off after 30-50 minutes. Now it won't go past point where light is first emitted before shutting down. I can hear there is problem with fan. I called JVC and got the exact same run around. I cannot believe they don't have access to a parts diagram.

Do you know which part # was correct, the 448 or 449 fan?? I appreciate any help.
I had the same problems, and after taking apart the projector and consulting a service manual that I have purchased, I have decided to order part QAR0449-001 DUCT FAN


which is making a funny noise. (Air exhaust fan in the "turbine assembly"...
Hope it fixes it, other wise I will have to look at ordering one of the other three fans in the projector and /or sending it to Mendtronix, which I am trying to avoid: $$$











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post #9 of 13 Old 09-03-2014, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Movie planet View Post
I had the same problems, and after taking apart the projector and consulting a service manual that I have purchased, I have decided to order part QAR0449-001 DUCT FAN


which is making a funny noise. (Air exhaust fan in the "turbine assembly"...
Hope it fixes it, other wise I will have to look at ordering one of the other three fans in the projector and /or sending it to Mendtronix, which I am trying to avoid: $$$











Based on others who have taken the projector apart, the box fan is this one:

http://www.pchub.com/uph/model/0--27...2PM-parts.html

When you get the part from JVC, please let us know if it is identical. If they are, the $26 is more attractive for trial and error DIY cooling issue troubleshooting.

Thanks.
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-14-2014, 05:22 PM
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I just got back from vacation and now my RS2 is also shutting down after 30-60 minutes hoping it was just the bulb I swapped for a known good original JVC that had low hours.

Same thing happened when it goes black and I look the Standby/ON is flashing while the Warning is on. After about 2-5 minutes the Warning stays lit and the Standby/ON is lit.

Is it possible to disassemble and replace the fan while it is mounted upside down?

Does this issue sound like it is the fan? There's plenty of hot air being exhausted out of the exhaust port.

Update: I already have high altitude mode ON due to summer heat in the office the projector is in. It seems the exhaust port is NOT blowing a lot of air out, the air is quite hot but seems rather slow output. For the fourth time today it ran 30-40 min before shutoff. Until I have a solution I guess it has to remain off. It is our HT/Living room display so this isn't great news for us.

Thanks

Last edited by pentium7; 09-14-2014 at 07:43 PM. Reason: Update
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post #11 of 13 Old 09-16-2014, 01:58 PM
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PM'd a couple people but couldn't wait. Spent some time and figured 92x92x38 was a safe bet

The specs of the Nidec D09E-12PM are Noise 36.5 dBA CFM 60.7 RPM 2650 Source: http://www.gizzo.8m.com/fans/fan92.html

So I bought this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tem=35-706-042

Double Ball Bearing Noise 43.5 dBA CFM 83 RPM 4000

Hopefully the size is correct at least JVC's own website confirmed 92x92 so if 38 is correct which Gizzo says it is then I should have a direct fit replacement. It seems this pushes more air so maybe I won't have to stick to High Altitude mode and Normal will run enough air through it.

My RS2 is inverted though so I'm hoping I can pull the cover down and replace it upside down.
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post #12 of 13 Old 09-28-2014, 07:36 AM
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Smile Fixed RS1 RS2 Fan

Update: Thank you Kevin McCarthy and all the other AVS contributors.

Spent all weekend last weekend and completed this little "project" we'll call it. The fan I purchased from Newegg worked but I had to follow someone else's PDF write up on how to trick the RS2 into allowing this fan to work. Basically I removed the very messed up Nidec stock fan (it had black tar goop all over it). Also when testing it outside the RS2 it was very unbalanced and hardly pushing any air so this was clearly the reason for the overheating. I also removed the fine "grill" which from another's post seems to be a protective barrier in case the lamp blows up and glass shards shoot out, it restricts the airflow too much so it is gone. You can see this grill and the fan in question through the lamp replacement window. Oh ya clean your prism while you are in there with Zeiss Lens Cleaning wipes box of 100 at Walmart for I think $7 individually wrapped. Keep up on it so it doesn't get a hard caked residue like mine had after 6 years of use.

AVS forums was invaluable in my ability to fix this issue so I am happy to contribute to maybe save someone else even more time. My answers to fixing my RS2 were buried in threads spanning from 2008 and the RS1 with people trying to replace the existing fan with a quieter fan. In my case I have an inverted mounted RS2 where the top is the bottom. I was able to remove the entire cover without dismounting it which saved me a lot of headaches, first time opening the case took me over an hour to figure out, second time was 5 minutes.

Here's some very helpful pictures of the RS1 which the RS2 is identical in every way. http://cineforhome.com/reviews/proje...D1/HD1Test.htm

Now if you look at the fan I purchased it is Nidec also 92x92x38, Double Ball Bearing (important), 83 CFM, 4000 RPM, 43.5 dBA the existing was I believe 60 CFM, 2600 RPM, 36 dBA... Another important factor in Kevin McCarthy's PDF was the "back pressure" that a fan is able to pull air while having resistance. In this case the resistance is the horseshoe tunnel the RS2 & RS1 use for cooling past the lamp and electronics.

From his PDF

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Oddly enough, I was able to put about a volt on the RS‐1 third wire and the projector still didn’t shut down. Moreover, if I left the projector third wire unconnected, the projector would shut down. So, open circuit doesn’t work, and connecting the projector’s third wire to that of the Delta fan also
triggered a shutdown. To continue, I simply soldered the projector third wire to the black (ground) lead to the fan."

While I was at this, I recorded the four fan voltages:

Normal lamp / low altitude: 6.08 volts
High lamp / low altitude: 7.07 volts
Normal lamp / high altitude: 8.04 volts
High lamp / high altitude: 9.02 volts

At this point, I had a chance to check out the air path behind the fan. It was a lot more clogged with stuff than I remembered; the lamp is a big blockage, and behind it there is something I didn’t recognize that blocks a lot of the duct. I couldn’t see into it, but there is a lot of electronics in the air path as well. I used heat shrink to insulate my wire splices, and taking care to get the fan wires in the tiny exit slot so as not to pinch them, reassembled the duct and replaced the cover. It was now time to do the real thermal testing. I was willing to let the exhaust air creep up a few degrees."

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was able to install the replacement fan with high end 3M double sided tape and use some clips on both ends of wires to connect it to the RS2's existing wiring. I spliced the third wire as suggested above because using that third wire connected to fan resulted in the RS2 shutting down within 1-2 minutes. 1 week now and it has been running flawlessly with exhaust temp @ 124'F (not sure what it was before) and the amount of air/heat exhausted has increased dramatically. I used to run on high altitude mode but now I reduced it to normal as it runs the fan at 6.08v which I would assume is around 2,000 RPM the noise level is barely noticeable but my RS2 is going through a wall so if yours is beside or above you then you might not like the slight increase in dBA. I realize now that I hadn't noticed the RS2 was virtually silent even in high altitude mode this is because the existing old fan was dying and hadn't been pushing hardly any airflow it was just a little breath of air when I tested it but sadly I hadn't tested the exhaust temps before taking it apart but it was very hot if I had to guess from the touch 150'F+

If anyone is in need of the complete PDF it is too large to attach here I'd be happy to email it to you. He did a LOT of testing on different fans and found that the back pressure was the most important that's why the 38mm and the particular Nidec was used, it is cheap as hell version though but low dBA and it gets the job done until it dies. I'm using the OSRAM and resulted in higher temps I dremeled out the original JVC lamp casing so there is better airflow. 1600 hours now on my current OSRAM lamp and it is 100% as bright as the JVC original that has 100 hours that I keep as a spare. This little fix won me a lot of WAF points because I didn't have to explain the "we need to upgrade to a new projector and dump 8 grand on one"

Sadly I was all on my own no one replied to any of my PMs on this issue, if anyone reads this though and needs help I'll be happy to assist
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post #13 of 13 Old Today, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pentium7 View Post
Update: Thank you Kevin McCarthy and all the other AVS contributors.

Spent all weekend last weekend and completed this little "project" we'll call it. The fan I purchased from Newegg worked but I had to follow someone else's PDF write up on how to trick the RS2 into allowing this fan to work. Basically I removed the very messed up Nidec stock fan (it had black tar goop all over it). Also when testing it outside the RS2 it was very unbalanced and hardly pushing any air so this was clearly the reason for the overheating. I also removed the fine "grill" which from another's post seems to be a protective barrier in case the lamp blows up and glass shards shoot out, it restricts the airflow too much so it is gone. You can see this grill and the fan in question through the lamp replacement window. Oh ya clean your prism while you are in there with Zeiss Lens Cleaning wipes box of 100 at Walmart for I think $7 individually wrapped. Keep up on it so it doesn't get a hard caked residue like mine had after 6 years of use.

AVS forums was invaluable in my ability to fix this issue so I am happy to contribute to maybe save someone else even more time. My answers to fixing my RS2 were buried in threads spanning from 2008 and the RS1 with people trying to replace the existing fan with a quieter fan. In my case I have an inverted mounted RS2 where the top is the bottom. I was able to remove the entire cover without dismounting it which saved me a lot of headaches, first time opening the case took me over an hour to figure out, second time was 5 minutes.

Here's some very helpful pictures of the RS1 which the RS2 is identical in every way.

Now if you look at the fan I purchased it is Nidec also 92x92x38, Double Ball Bearing (important), 83 CFM, 4000 RPM, 43.5 dBA the existing was I believe 60 CFM, 2600 RPM, 36 dBA... Another important factor in Kevin McCarthy's PDF was the "back pressure" that a fan is able to pull air while having resistance. In this case the resistance is the horseshoe tunnel the RS2 & RS1 use for cooling past the lamp and electronics.

From his PDF

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Oddly enough, I was able to put about a volt on the RS‐1 third wire and the projector still didn’t shut down. Moreover, if I left the projector third wire unconnected, the projector would shut down. So, open circuit doesn’t work, and connecting the projector’s third wire to that of the Delta fan also
triggered a shutdown. To continue, I simply soldered the projector third wire to the black (ground) lead to the fan."

While I was at this, I recorded the four fan voltages:

Normal lamp / low altitude: 6.08 volts
High lamp / low altitude: 7.07 volts
Normal lamp / high altitude: 8.04 volts
High lamp / high altitude: 9.02 volts

At this point, I had a chance to check out the air path behind the fan. It was a lot more clogged with stuff than I remembered; the lamp is a big blockage, and behind it there is something I didn’t recognize that blocks a lot of the duct. I couldn’t see into it, but there is a lot of electronics in the air path as well. I used heat shrink to insulate my wire splices, and taking care to get the fan wires in the tiny exit slot so as not to pinch them, reassembled the duct and replaced the cover. It was now time to do the real thermal testing. I was willing to let the exhaust air creep up a few degrees."

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was able to install the replacement fan with high end 3M double sided tape and use some clips on both ends of wires to connect it to the RS2's existing wiring. I spliced the third wire as suggested above because using that third wire connected to fan resulted in the RS2 shutting down within 1-2 minutes. 1 week now and it has been running flawlessly with exhaust temp @ 124'F (not sure what it was before) and the amount of air/heat exhausted has increased dramatically. I used to run on high altitude mode but now I reduced it to normal as it runs the fan at 6.08v which I would assume is around 2,000 RPM the noise level is barely noticeable but my RS2 is going through a wall so if yours is beside or above you then you might not like the slight increase in dBA. I realize now that I hadn't noticed the RS2 was virtually silent even in high altitude mode this is because the existing old fan was dying and hadn't been pushing hardly any airflow it was just a little breath of air when I tested it but sadly I hadn't tested the exhaust temps before taking it apart but it was very hot if I had to guess from the touch 150'F+

If anyone is in need of the complete PDF it is too large to attach here I'd be happy to email it to you. He did a LOT of testing on different fans and found that the back pressure was the most important that's why the 38mm and the particular Nidec was used, it is cheap as hell version though but low dBA and it gets the job done until it dies. I'm using the OSRAM and resulted in higher temps I dremeled out the original JVC lamp casing so there is better airflow. 1600 hours now on my current OSRAM lamp and it is 100% as bright as the JVC original that has 100 hours that I keep as a spare. This little fix won me a lot of WAF points because I didn't have to explain the "we need to upgrade to a new projector and dump 8 grand on one"

Sadly I was all on my own no one replied to any of my PMs on this issue, if anyone reads this though and needs help I'll be happy to assist
Resurrecting an old thread.

Nice work pentium7- awesome job . I would really like some additional details as I may like to give this a try. I still have too few posts to PM (heck, I even had to remove the link from the quote above as you need 5 posts to post links!!!), but if you can PM me with contact information, I can send you an email.
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