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post #1261 of 1462 Old 07-11-2014, 04:15 PM
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It's a rec room with control ambient light from double patio doors in the middle of the 64' length.
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post #1262 of 1462 Old 07-11-2014, 04:32 PM
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I suppose if you want a screen that size I'd recommend one with some gain - 1.3 gain, white. Give us a call at AV Science to get specific prices and ideas ( or send an email ). There are several good choices at various price points.

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post #1263 of 1462 Old 07-11-2014, 10:12 PM
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Do we still need a A-Lens with HW55 if we have a Lumagen Mini 3D?
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post #1264 of 1462 Old 07-11-2014, 10:19 PM
 
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yes I would still use an A-lens
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post #1265 of 1462 Old 07-11-2014, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ttlnb View Post
yes I would still use an A-lens
Can you give me some info on Lumagen vs A-Lens. Is there a loss of quality using Lumagen?

Lumagen mini costs 1500 and A-Lens is 4K, so trying to see which makes sense for 2.35 viewing using HW55. Thx
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post #1266 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 04:43 AM
 
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There is a significant lumen difference from my viewing between an A-lens and using the zoom method. You get about 25% more light output using the lens and IMHO the picture looks crisper than using the zoom method. The Lumagen is a video processor and I am sure does a better job of scaling and video processing but it can't change that you are not using the full light output of the projector.
I am not sure if a better quality lens makes a bigger difference but my friends with the A-lens all have the basic Panamorph Cinevista model which is about $2000. So you might not need a $4000 model.
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post #1267 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuggymba View Post
Do we still need a A-Lens with HW55 if we have a Lumagen Mini 3D?
Look at the used market for a lens or contact Panamorph directly to see if they have any B stock. Panamorph guys are very helpful. Would need a mounting plate and sled to go with the lens.
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post #1268 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuggymba View Post
Can you give me some info on Lumagen vs A-Lens. Is there a loss of quality using Lumagen?

Lumagen mini costs 1500 and A-Lens is 4K, so trying to see which makes sense for 2.35 viewing using HW55. Thx
When using just a lumagen to get the 16:9 image onto your scope screen, you lose resolution when showing 16:9 and you are not using all of the pixels, when showing scope.

With a fixed in place A-lens, you are losing resolution when showing 16:9, but are using all of the pixels when showing a scope image.

With a moveable A-lens you get full resolution when showing 16:9 and you are using all of the pixels when showing a scope image.

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post #1269 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 11:52 AM
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Thanks all.

So basically, Lumagen just helps to adjust the screen size and improve the pic quality based on some settings. A-Lens, as per my knowledge, will only go from 16:9 to 2.35 and not 2.36, 2.37, 2.40 etc..is this correct?

so, we need Lumagen and A-Lens both for a great picture..right?
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post #1270 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuggymba View Post
Thanks all.

So basically, Lumagen just helps to adjust the screen size and improve the pic quality based on some settings. A-Lens, as per my knowledge, will only go from 16:9 to 2.35 and not 2.36, 2.37, 2.40 etc..is this correct?

so, we need Lumagen and A-Lens both for a great picture..right?

How much more for the VW500es? This is 4K pj with lens shift.
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post #1271 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 12:48 PM
 
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Mike is of course correct and the moveable A-lens is the best solution. Most of my friends use a fixed lens although the one that has a manual moveable lens rarely moves it. If you use a fixed lens and watch 16:9 material you have two options.


The first option is to watch the 16:9 picture stretched to 2.35 and this is what most of my friends do even the one with the moveable lens. The other option is the video processor scales the stretched picture to make the aspect ratio correct and gives you the black bars on the sides. This does reduce resolution but surprisingly it still looks pretty good. This is where the Lumagen might do a better job than the built in processing of the projector. None of my friends have a Lumagen so I can't compare. One does have a DVDO processor but doesn't use a scope screen.


If you get a moveable lens it is probably better to get a powered one if budget allows. I think the reason my friend doesn't move his lens is he doesn't want to go op to the projector and do it. The trade off is the fixed is of course less expensive but the powered ones that slide out of the way are probably more than $4000.
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post #1272 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 01:21 PM
 
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I just seen your post. I think this can be difficult to explain without seeing it but I will try.


An A-lens does nothing more than stretch the picture horizontally. So if you are watching high def material and you put an A-lens in front of the projector the high def material is now stretched. Similar to the way many people years ago would have a new high def TV but still watch their familiar standard definition channels stretched to fit the screen.


So if you have a 2.35 screen and no lens you will have black bars on the sides. With the lens the 16:9 material is stretched to 2.35. If High Def TV is your biggest concern than do not get a 2.35 screen.


If movies take a priority over High def TV than a 2.35 screen might be for you. Since most movies are filmed in ~2.35 they will have black bars on the top and bottom on a high def TV or screen. If you have a 16:9 projector with an A-lens and want to use a 2.35 screen a couple things need to happen to make it fit the screen.


The projector (or video processor) has to stretch the screen vertically to fill the screen and get rid of the black bars on the top and bottom. Then the A-lens needs to be in front of the projector to stretch the screen horizontally. So you have a video processor stretching the picture vertically and a lens stretching it horizontally.


So if you have a 2.35 screen and a 16:9 projector with a moveable lens. You would move the lens out of the way when watching high def and have black bars on the side or a masking screen if you want to spend even more money.


If your lens is fixed in place everything is stretched. If you are watching a movie you have the video processor stretch the picture to fill the screen vertically. If you are watching 16:0 material you either watch it stretched or have the video processor 'squeeze' the picture to give you the correct aspect with black bars on the side. This does lose some resolution.


Whether you are stretching the picture vertically to get rid of the black bars top and bottom for you A-lens or squeezing the picture to add the black bars to watch 16: material this is an area where a better processor can make a difference. And an external processor is needed for projectors that do not have this scaling capability like the Epson 5030. That is one of the difference between the 5030 and 6030 is this capability. The Sony has the built in scaling and IMHO does a decent job. I imagine the Lumagen will do a better job but how much better I don't know.


I hope I explained this correctly. It is easy once you see what is happening and play with the various scaling functions on the projector. I have had other projectors but always a 16:9 screen. Once one of my friends got a 2.35 and I played with it, everything made a lot more sense.


I am currently redoing my room and will be doing a 2.35 screen (possibly curved). I haven't decided on a projector yet but might wait for Cedia as I still got more to go on my room.
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post #1273 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttlnb View Post
Mike is of course correct and the moveable A-lens is the best solution. Most of my friends use a fixed lens although the one that has a manual moveable lens rarely moves it. If you use a fixed lens and watch 16:9 material you have two options.


The first option is to watch the 16:9 picture stretched to 2.35 and this is what most of my friends do even the one with the moveable lens. The other option is the video processor scales the stretched picture to make the aspect ratio correct and gives you the black bars on the sides. This does reduce resolution but surprisingly it still looks pretty good. This is where the Lumagen might do a better job than the built in processing of the projector. None of my friends have a Lumagen so I can't compare. One does have a DVDO processor but doesn't use a scope screen.


If you get a moveable lens it is probably better to get a powered one if budget allows. I think the reason my friend doesn't move his lens is he doesn't want to go op to the projector and do it. The trade off is the fixed is of course less expensive but the powered ones that slide out of the way are probably more than $4000.
Thanks. I'm just trying to see where to spend the money first - A-Lens or Lumagen. I'll be watching movies and sports mainly. It's all about the budget, I won't have money for both. Will see how much a B-stock DC1 costs from Panamorph. Can we also buy a used Lumagen mini from AVS? I can possibly have both and save money also
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post #1274 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 02:47 PM
 
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If you decide on a 2.35 screen an A-lens would be the place to start.
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post #1275 of 1462 Old 07-12-2014, 04:55 PM
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If you decide on a 2.35 screen an A-lens would be the place to start.
Good explanation ttlnb. If HW55 already does the vertical stretch, I'd rather spend first on A-Lens first so I can get the horizontal stretch. How much would a B stock DC1 cost with and without motorized sled? Or I could stand on the couch each time to move it in or out of the way
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post #1276 of 1462 Old 07-13-2014, 02:20 AM
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I used an Iscan duo/ Prismasonic HD-5000R lens with a Sony HW55, this worked well.

I know where a Panamorph UH380 with a sled is for sale if your prepared to buy across the pond. 'Well I'm pretty sure Stuart hasn't sold it yet?'

http://www.avforums.com/threads/anam...#post-20865695

http://www.avforums.com/threads/my-s...-room.1619783/

I know this doesn't count for much, but I've seen the lens and its in great condition.

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post #1277 of 1462 Old 07-20-2014, 01:25 AM
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magicj1, using the IP2SL like you...looks like you have everything right except you need to set the Parity to EVEN in the IP2SL...

jidelite
Hi jidelite.

I seem to be having no luck with this. I take it your using iRule ITACH RS232 Gateway?
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post #1278 of 1462 Old 07-20-2014, 03:25 PM
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Hello All.

I am having my Sony HW55 installed tomorrow w/ a Stewart 123" screen and the NAD T758 receiver with a 5+1 sound system with JBL speakers to use with my PS3 player and Comcast DVR.

Question..

* I am looking for an option for a great BR DVD to watch on the first movie night.. I want something with a great sound track (action) and eye popping
graphics for the BR DVD.

Can some of you give me some options on a great DVD to watch..



Thanks,

Steve

(Zman) #24 Jeff Gordon in 2014..
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post #1279 of 1462 Old 07-20-2014, 07:28 PM
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Hello All.

I am having my Sony HW55 installed tomorrow w/ a Stewart 123" screen and the NAD T758 receiver with a 5+1 sound system with JBL speakers to use with my PS3 player and Comcast DVR.

Question..

* I am looking for an option for a great BR DVD to watch on the first movie night.. I want something with a great sound track (action) and eye popping
graphics for the BR DVD.

Can some of you give me some options on a great DVD to watch..



Thanks,

Steve
Star Trek (2009) Blu ray is awesome on these projectors!
Gravity if you want to check out 3D.
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post #1280 of 1462 Old 07-21-2014, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by magicj1 View Post
Hi jidelite.

I seem to be having no luck with this. I take it your using iRule ITACH RS232 Gateway?
Yes, I'm using iRules ITACH RS232 Gateway (Device definition and iTach Serial config attached). Are you sure you imported the correct Device/Feedback definitions from the community database? Are you able to test your Null Serial cable to verify works? To remove iRule from the equation, I've often suggested using Docklight Scripting tool to test communications (I've mentioned this to others - Docklight Scripting tool has saved me from a lot of IP/RS232 head scratching. If you haven't used it make sure you download 'Docklight Scripting' and it might take a while to get the hang of it. Check iRule tutorial to get started). Lastly, I sure hope your 'REMOTE' connector (on the HW55ES) is good - I never did get my 'IR IN' to initially work but since I knew I was going to use the 'REMOTE' connector I didn't bother sending my projector back for repairs...

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post #1281 of 1462 Old 07-21-2014, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuggymba View Post
Thanks all.

So basically, Lumagen just helps to adjust the screen size and improve the pic quality based on some settings. A-Lens, as per my knowledge, will only go from 16:9 to 2.35 and not 2.36, 2.37, 2.40 etc..is this correct?

so, we need Lumagen and A-Lens both for a great picture..right?
There are such small differences in screen size, between those ratios, that most do not worry about it. Some live with slight black bars and others over shoot the image onto the frame, so that there are never any black bars. Lets face it, are you really going to notice that you have cut off a 1/2" of each end of an image?

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post #1282 of 1462 Old 07-21-2014, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jidelite View Post
Yes, I'm using iRules ITACH RS232 Gateway (Device definition and iTach Serial config attached). Are you sure you imported the correct Device/Feedback definitions from the community database? Are you able to test your Null Serial cable to verify works? To remove iRule from the equation, I've often suggested using Docklight Scripting tool to test communications (I've mentioned this to others - Docklight Scripting tool has saved me from a lot of IP/RS232 head scratching. If you haven't used it make sure you download 'Docklight Scripting' and it might take a while to get the hang of it. Check iRule tutorial to get started). Lastly, I sure hope your 'REMOTE' connector (on the HW55ES) is good - I never did get my 'IR IN' to initially work but since I knew I was going to use the 'REMOTE' connector I didn't bother sending my projector back for repairs...

jidelite
Cheers jidelite.

I've got 2 NULL modem cables, both give the same 'pin' continuity results using a multimeter.

Having tried Docklite scripting it's looking like either the REMOTE connector or my itach RS232 is at fault 'unless I'm really missing something with the modem cable'.

A friend has a Sony. I will see if he would try my ITACH on his.
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post #1283 of 1462 Old 07-21-2014, 10:52 AM
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Anyone use a Cinevista (or other fixed anamorphic lens) with their HW55?

I'm in the market for my first projector which will likely the HW55 and am looking for some "real world" feedback from those of you with a fixed Cinevista lens. How noticeable is the drop in image quality when viewing 16:9 content with the fixed lens in place? It will be projecting on a 130" wide 2.35 screen. I realize that 16:9 content will lose some of the horizontal resolution, but since I've never viewed the difference first-hand, I'm really unsure of how big a deal this is. I will still be viewing quite a bit of 16:9 content, so I don't want to be disappointed with the image quality.
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post #1284 of 1462 Old 07-21-2014, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vachief View Post
I'm in the market for my first projector which will likely the HW55 and am looking for some "real world" feedback from those of you with a fixed Cinevista lens. How noticeable is the drop in image quality when viewing 16:9 content with the fixed lens in place? It will be projecting on a 130" wide 2.35 screen. I realize that 16:9 content will lose some of the horizontal resolution, but since I've never viewed the difference first-hand, I'm really unsure of how big a deal this is. I will still be viewing quite a bit of 16:9 content, so I don't want to be disappointed with the image quality.
From what I have seen, you will be hard pressed to tell a difference, since the 16:9 image will about a 103" diagonal.

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post #1285 of 1462 Old 07-21-2014, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by magicj1 View Post
Cheers jidelite.

I've got 2 NULL modem cables, both give the same 'pin' continuity results using a multimeter.

Having tried Docklite scripting it's looking like either the REMOTE connector or my itach RS232 is at fault 'unless I'm really missing something with the modem cable'.

A friend has a Sony. I will see if he would try my ITACH on his.

magicj1, Just a thought, I just need to clarify something with your Null cables - are they homemade? I made mine since I needed about 50ft (Cat5 and DB9/RJ-45, modular adaptors) but in reviewing your previous post where you described your connectors something is not right. You specified 2 female connectors but you actually should have 1 male to the HW55ES and 1 female to the iTach IP2SL (the pin outs are opposite)...


jidelite
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post #1286 of 1462 Old 07-21-2014, 09:51 PM
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Hi, I have a semi defective PT-AE6000 (display has discoloration which is getting worse and it has persistent lamp flicker on low lamp even with new lamps) and am looking to buy a new projector and get the Panny repaired to sell it afterwards.

Now, I am pretty sure that the new Sonys have no problems with panel discoloration/degradation, right ?

I was a bit shocked though to see a few people mention lamp flicker with the Sonys, is that really a problem ? I bought the Panny over a new Sony because of the lamp life and if I need to keep the Sony on high lamp to remove flicker that is still a serious drawback over the Panny who can do up to 4000 hours even on high, 3000 easy, compared to 2000 on the VW55 and lamps for both are similar priced.

One other worry is the optics, before I bought the Panny I tried 2 Sonys (can't remember the exact model but it was whatever Sony had on the market in the same price range as the panny at the end of 2012) and they both had severe problems with their optics.
It was impossible to get the whole picture uniformly in focus and since I use the projector only with a PC for everything it was very noticeable on text or spreadsheets with 2 big clouds of soft picture.
Is that still a problem with the VW55 ? I heard they still use cheap optics but is it at least possible to get the whole picture in focus ?
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post #1287 of 1462 Old 07-21-2014, 11:21 PM
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magicj1, Just a thought, I just need to clarify something with your Null cables - are they homemade? I made mine since I needed about 50ft (Cat5 and DB9/RJ-45, modular adaptors) but in reviewing your previous post where you described your connectors something is not right. You specified 2 female connectors but you actually should have 1 male to the HW55ES and 1 female to the iTach IP2SL (the pin outs are opposite)...


jidelite
Thanks for the correct pin out diagram jidelite.

Unfortunately my cables are correct. The female end runs 1-5 right to left and the male left to right.

All being well I plan to pop over to a friends house this Wednesday to test on his Sony. I will keep you posted.
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post #1288 of 1462 Old 07-25-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jidelite View Post
magicj1, Just a thought, I just need to clarify something with your Null cables - are they homemade? I made mine since I needed about 50ft (Cat5 and DB9/RJ-45, modular adaptors) but in reviewing your previous post where you described your connectors something is not right. You specified 2 female connectors but you actually should have 1 male to the HW55ES and 1 female to the iTach IP2SL (the pin outs are opposite)...


jidelite
Did you use all the RS232 pin outs jidelite, or did you just use 2-3, 3-2 & 5?
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post #1289 of 1462 Old 07-25-2014, 12:47 PM
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magicj1, I created a generic 'null' cable so I used all the pins in my adapters (in case I had to use the adapters in another application). However, I believe the HW55ES (like the Hw50ES) only uses the TxD,RxD, & Ground as you specified.

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post #1290 of 1462 Old 07-25-2014, 07:58 PM
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Does the use of extreme lens shift (all the way down) negatively impact/degrade picture quality?

Meaning if I have to use the extreme lens shift to bring the image down to completely fit the screen, is it better to just buy an extension for my mount and not use any lens shift at all?

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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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