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post #1381 of 1399 Old 09-24-2014, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by AdamAttewell View Post
Just shocks me that my Benq W1070 projected a perfect square image but the Sony at over twice its price can't.
The shorter throw range of the 1070 helps in this regard.

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post #1382 of 1399 Old 09-24-2014, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamAttewell View Post
Just shocks me that my Benq W1070 projected a perfect square image but the Sony at over twice its price can't.
It might not be 100% perfectly level and square to the screen. I can get that same effect with my Sim Lumis - and that projector has a great lens. It doesn't take being off by much to cause that.

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post #1383 of 1399 Old 09-24-2014, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
The shorter throw range of the 1070 helps in this regard.
So will having the zoom near its limits affect how much bow is present is the image?

I took the projector back to the dealer and he set it up and the bow was present, he then setup an epson 5030ub and the image was square.

That projector has an even bigger throw range than the sony.

Last edited by AdamAttewell; 09-24-2014 at 08:28 AM.
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post #1384 of 1399 Old 09-24-2014, 09:48 AM
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So will having the zoom near its limits affect how much bow is present is the image?

I took the projector back to the dealer and he set it up and the bow was present, he then setup an epson 5030ub and the image was square.

That projector has an even bigger throw range than the sony.

Near the limits of the lens shift can make a difference. As I said earlier, it is the lens. You just have to decide if everything else is good enough to make you want to live with this bowing or exchange. My brother has an older Sony and it is bowed slightly at the bottom. The image sharpness and uniformity was so good on the projector, compared to others he had seen, that he decided to keep it. He just enlarged the image slightly, so that the bow, is lost in the black velvet border.

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post #1385 of 1399 Old 09-24-2014, 07:42 PM
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I did a search of this thread and found nothing useful on it.

Can someone tell me what "Contrast Enhancer" does in the advanced menu settings?

Also -- while asking questions -- I would love to know that the difference gamma adjustment settings mean. I can tell what looks good -- but I would love to know that "off", 2.2, 2.4, Gamma 8, etc., refer to.

Thanks!

CT

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post #1386 of 1399 Old 09-25-2014, 02:14 AM
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Like some of the posted photographs, (Post 1237) I need to have my "55" fairly close to the rear wall at the projector position. This would be whether it was table or ceiling mounted.


The Instruction Manual states a minimum space of 30cm at the projector rear as the air intake is obviously here.


In the case of table mounting, with "clear space" of more than 2 metres at each side and more than 1 metre above, would a space of around 20cm be too close to the wall?

Last edited by Fishhooks; 09-25-2014 at 02:39 AM. Reason: Correction
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post #1387 of 1399 Old 09-25-2014, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Near the limits of the lens shift can make a difference. As I said earlier, it is the lens. You just have to decide if everything else is good enough to make you want to live with this bowing or exchange. My brother has an older Sony and it is bowed slightly at the bottom. The image sharpness and uniformity was so good on the projector, compared to others he had seen, that he decided to keep it. He just enlarged the image slightly, so that the bow, is lost in the black velvet border.
Can you measure the amount of bow you have seen from the screen edge to the top the image.

Its just when I watch a film in 2.40:1 I can see the bottom of the image is bowed also when a ticker is on the bottom of the screen this also has a bow to it.

So its not just the edge of the image that is not straight but it is also distorting the bottom portion of the image aswell.

Is this normal? I have 1cm of bow from the top of the screen to the top of the image.
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post #1388 of 1399 Old 09-25-2014, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamAttewell View Post
Can you measure the amount of bow you have seen from the screen edge to the top the image.

Its just when I watch a film in 2.40:1 I can see the bottom of the image is bowed also when a ticker is on the bottom of the screen this also has a bow to it.

So its not just the edge of the image that is not straight but it is also distorting the bottom portion of the image aswell.

Is this normal? I have 1cm of bow from the top of the screen to the top of the image.
What size screen do you have? Are you saying the top of the ticker (at bottom of screen) is bowed or just the bottom of the ticker is bowed?

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post #1389 of 1399 Old 09-25-2014, 07:07 AM
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What size screen do you have? Are you saying the top of the ticker (at bottom of screen) is bowed or just the bottom of the ticker is bowed?
My screen size in 110" diagonal

Well the bow changes from top to bottom depending on the orentation of the projector.

So if ceiling mounted it is at the bottom, if on a table its at the top.

The ticker just bows upward.

Here is some pictures:

http://postimg.org/gallery/hq38oiwo/11240701/

Last edited by AdamAttewell; 09-25-2014 at 07:32 AM.
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post #1390 of 1399 Old 09-25-2014, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamAttewell View Post
My screen size in 110" diagonal

Well the bow changes from top to bottom depending on the orentation of the projector.

So if ceiling mounted it is at the bottom, if on a table its at the top.

The ticker just bows upward.

Here is some pictures:

http://postimg.org/gallery/hq38oiwo/11240701/
Okay, so it is not bowing the entire image, just the bottom of the image or top, depending on orientation of the projector. The problem is the lens, not the screen. You just have to decide if you want to overshoot 3/8" or exchange. If everything else about the projector is real good, I would consider keeping, because while you could get one that does not have the bowing, it could have lower sharpness or lower focus uniformity. If it has other problems, I would see about an exchange.

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post #1391 of 1399 Old 09-25-2014, 01:33 PM
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Okay, so it is not bowing the entire image, just the bottom of the image or top, depending on orientation of the projector. The problem is the lens, not the screen. You just have to decide if you want to overshoot 3/8" or exchange. If everything else about the projector is real good, I would consider keeping, because while you could get one that does not have the bowing, it could have lower sharpness or lower focus uniformity. If it has other problems, I would see about an exchange.
This being my first high end projector I have no idea what to look for with sharpness, convergence and focus uniformity.

The bow is something I can see but I have been I discussion with Sony prime support and they can't tell me from pictures if the bow is "within limits" to not.

So I will need to send it away to them, so they can test it.
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post #1392 of 1399 Old 09-25-2014, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamAttewell View Post
This being my first high end projector I have no idea what to look for with sharpness, convergence and focus uniformity.

The bow is something I can see but I have been I discussion with Sony prime support and they can't tell me from pictures if the bow is "within limits" to not.

So I will need to send it away to them, so they can test it.
Put a static image or test pattern up and if the sharpness is the same all across the screen, then you are good there. Put up a convergence test pattern and see how well the colors match up, from viewing distance. If both of those items look good, then I would probably not mess with sending it in.

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post #1393 of 1399 Old 09-25-2014, 07:07 PM
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This 3D package is what comes as standard with a VPL-HW55 Projector purchased from an authorized Sony Dealer in Australia.


My initial delivery was missing the small adapter cable, probably by mistake and the dealer certainly made it instantly available when I contacted them. Can't imagine it's cost should be anywhere near $75!


I think I read somewhere that VPL-HW55's in some parts of the world also are packaged with a voucher for a new lamp. Here in Australia you only get a voucher for a $100 discount on your next lamp if purchased from a Sony Dealer.


Would also appreciate some feedback on the clear space some of you have behind the projector, to a wall, where of course the main air-intake is.
The manual states 30cm, I think I can only manage about 20cm, but the space at the top and sides is more than 1 metre, certainly at the sides several metres!
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post #1394 of 1399 Old 09-26-2014, 11:33 AM
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Put a static image or test pattern up and if the sharpness is the same all across the screen, then you are good there. Put up a convergence test pattern and see how well the colors match up, from viewing distance. If both of those items look good, then I would probably not mess with sending it in.
Thanks for all your help and time I will have a good look at the PQ over this weekend, will see if I can put up with the distortion.

Does annoy me the bottom of movies are bowed.
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post #1395 of 1399 Old 09-26-2014, 12:26 PM
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Thanks for all your help and time I will have a good look at the PQ over this weekend, will see if I can put up with the distortion.

Does annoy me the bottom of movies are bowed.
Make the image slightly larger, so that it overshoots the bottom of the velvet covered screen frame by 3/8" and you will soon forget about it. Do this by making it 3/16" bigger top and bottom and lens shifting it down 3/16". Then it is hidden.

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post #1396 of 1399 Old 09-28-2014, 02:21 PM
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may I ask how good the hw55es' 3d performance is (crosstalk/ghosting etc.). "I'm between" the hw55es and the Epson 9200/5030 but it's a pretty hard decision to me. Unfortunately at my place I have no dealer to compare them or check them out. Epson has a 120hz technology for 3d, but according to Sony the hw55es supports 120hz, too. I'm pretty confused and I don't know which one I should buy. Sony's advantage is the sxrd technology and the epson is better in 3d like people say because of the 120hz. How is it possible to reach these 120hz for 3d for the sony hw55es? (remember I said sony said the hw55es supports it)
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post #1397 of 1399 Old 09-28-2014, 06:06 PM
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What do people recommend for settings with reality creation and noise reduction with movies.

Been told 20 on resolution but no one has recommended a setting for noise reduction.
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post #1398 of 1399 Old Yesterday, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
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I did a search of this thread and found nothing useful on it.

Can someone tell me what "Contrast Enhancer" does in the advanced menu settings?

Also -- while asking questions -- I would love to know that the difference gamma adjustment settings mean. I can tell what looks good -- but I would love to know that "off", 2.2, 2.4, Gamma 8, etc., refer to.

Thanks!

CT
Contrast enhancer, as the name implies, looks at the luminance content of the image and tries to push out the darker and lighter elements of the frame to 'increase contrast'. In some content it may be fine, but it can also crush out darks / highlights in some other content.

Gamma is the luminance curve, or how quickly successive luminance levels are mapped to various brightness levels. It is most noticeable in night / dark scenes where you can see various shades of very dark colors which still maintaining deep blacks. The higher the number ('2.4', etc.) the darker the picture looks, and the lower the number the less dark grays, and deep browns look. Depending on how light controlled your theater is, the lower your gamma curve can be, which still keeping the content viewable. Typically, you see values between 2.2 - 2.4 for modern displays in most environments, but this is ideally figured out during calibration. Here's a link for your perusal.
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post #1399 of 1399 Old Yesterday, 07:49 PM
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Contrast enhancer, as the name implies, looks at the luminance content of the image and tries to push out the darker and lighter elements of the frame to 'increase contrast'. In some content it may be fine, but it can also crush out darks / highlights in some other content.

Gamma is the luminance curve, or how quickly successive luminance levels are mapped to various brightness levels. It is most noticeable in night / dark scenes where you can see various shades of very dark colors which still maintaining deep blacks. The higher the number ('2.4', etc.) the darker the picture looks, and the lower the number the less dark grays, and deep browns look. Depending on how light controlled your theater is, the lower your gamma curve can be, which still keeping the content viewable. Typically, you see values between 2.2 - 2.4 for modern displays in most environments, but this is ideally figured out during calibration. Here's a link for your perusal.
Thank you for the assistance. Very helpful.

Couple of follow up questions if I may:

1. I understand what gamma does now -- what does it mean if gamma is in the "off" setting in our 55ES projectors?

2. Our projectors seem to have two types of gamma values. One set is the 2.2, 2.4, etc. That I now understand. The other set is Gamma 8, Gamma 9, etc. How do the two relate?

Thank you again!

CT

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