Owners thread Sony Hw55ES - Page 58 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1711 of 1953 Old 02-12-2015, 10:45 AM
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According to Cine 4 Home you have it right!... sorry my mistake.

The mark indicates where the direction of where projection angle crosses the centerline of the lens. In this case down, apparently the lens performa best when not parallel with the angle.

Looks great. I too feel the black levels have been decreased by use of these lenses, it has been proven before.

TJ
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post #1712 of 1953 Old 02-12-2015, 02:12 PM
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Trying to attach the Universal Chief Mount to Sony HW55. the adapter nut doesn't seem to be snug and the screw is tight as it can be, what am I doing wrong?
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post #1713 of 1953 Old 02-12-2015, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loondijke View Post
Yesterday I sat down in my HT and saw Skyfall on my HW55 and Kingpin VFS210 screen (90 inch). Man o Man, what a joy that was! I watched around 60 hours films and tv shows on my PJ, but this bluray was by far the best quality my PJ showed me. I couldn't resist to shoot some pictures with my Lumia 930 and show it. On a good monitor, it's unbelievable and you can see the PQ a little bit. It was absolutely stunning .
It's a great Blu Ray to watch on a projector. Make sure to check out Sin City: A Dame to Kill For in 3D -- I thought that film was absurdly amazing on my 55ES.
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post #1714 of 1953 Old 02-13-2015, 06:21 AM
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are there any general picture settings to get started with and then adjust from there?
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post #1715 of 1953 Old 02-15-2015, 09:45 AM
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RF 3d vs IR 3d quality

Those of you who have switched to the RF 3D glasses think they are any better for picture quality smoothness? Did this help with flicker at all? I think 3D is pretty good except for the flicker.
I tried the the Mitsubishi xpand RF set with modified cable and was getting lots of ghosting and when changing settings it didn't seem to work at all then. I am running the 3D glasses brightness 1 level below the top.
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post #1716 of 1953 Old 02-15-2015, 12:34 PM
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Im use rf Glaser from Optoma, its much better pictures , its more stable And no flickering
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post #1717 of 1953 Old 02-16-2015, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tskalecki View Post
Im use rf Glaser from Optoma, its much better pictures , its more stable And no flickering
Same here,they give the best picture..
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post #1718 of 1953 Old 02-16-2015, 08:46 AM
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Same here,they give the best picture..
So RF seems to eliminate the flicker problem?
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post #1719 of 1953 Old 02-16-2015, 09:00 AM - Thread Starter
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So RF seems to eliminate the flicker problem?
No,but it much less.
But if you have a dark room you will not notice it with the optoma rf kit.
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post #1720 of 1953 Old 02-16-2015, 09:11 AM
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No,but it much less.
But if you have a dark room you will not notice it with the optoma rf kit.
Do you use the BC300 emitter? What glasses?

Thanks.
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post #1721 of 1953 Old 02-16-2015, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you use the BC300 emitter? What glasses?

Thanks.
I use the Optoma ZF2100 System ..


Best regards
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post #1722 of 1953 Old 02-16-2015, 09:44 AM
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I use the Optoma ZF2100 System ..


Best regards
Looks like that is the same as the EStar America ESG6100 RF-3D Starter Kit we can get in the states from amazon. Did you have to do any configuration changes or was it plug and play?

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post #1723 of 1953 Old 02-16-2015, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like that is the same as the EStar America ESG6100 RF-3D Starter Kit we can get in the states from amazon. Did you have to do any configuration changes or was it plug and play?

I did fine tune the emitter for the best result.

You need a special cable tot connect it tot the Sony hw55es.

I had the cable imcluded with the Sony.
But soms guys dont have it included i heard.
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post #1724 of 1953 Old 02-19-2015, 12:01 PM
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I am proud to say that I am now an owner of the Sony HW55ES.

This is my first front projector. Ordered it yesterday. It will be here tomorrow.

I also ordered the XPand RF emitter and the Sony conversion cable. Not happy both cost me nearly $300, but I wanted to use the same RF glasses that I was using with my Samsung plasma. I bought some really nice rechargeable RF glasses that I wanted to use with this projector.

Will be a week until my 118" diagonal 16x9 screen arrives and then I have to get an installer in.

Thinking of putting the Sony on a high cabinet shelf on the opposite end of the room. Throw distance will be just over 16 feet. Hope that will be fine. If not, I have to deal with mounting the projector to a drop ceiling.

I echo the question a few posts above as to important initial settings I may want to be aware of --- particularly when watching 3D.

Look forward to hearing from other owners.
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post #1725 of 1953 Old 02-19-2015, 12:26 PM
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Hey Ron, did you decide on how far back you'll be sitting?

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post #1726 of 1953 Old 02-19-2015, 12:42 PM
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David, yes, 10 feet. Which is better than the original 7 feet.

Just have to figure out if I need a ceiling mount or not per my post above.
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post #1727 of 1953 Old 02-19-2015, 01:21 PM
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Alright ... so my 4K schizophrenia has ended -- and I am keeping my 55ES for the time being.

But I am still wanting to move from a 120" 1.1 gain screen to a 135" 1.1 gain screen. My throw distance is 14.5', my front row is 13.5' from the screen. I am currently in low lamp mode for 2D with iris in auto limited and I find it plenty bright in my blacked out theater. But I would just like a bit more immersion . And I love 3D on the PJ BTW and watch at 1 click above dimmest brightness in the 3D menu (I am pretty sure that the lamp jumps up to high brightness for 3D).

Now if I move to a 135" 1.1 gain (I am thinking Silver Ticket or Vapex) -- will I be satisfied with the 3D brightness. Anyone here using a 135" screen with 3D?

Thanks!
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post #1728 of 1953 Old 02-19-2015, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
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David, yes, 10 feet. Which is better than the original 7 feet.

Just have to figure out if I need a ceiling mount or not per my post above.
Much better indeed. You're going have a blast. That's close to the size I would have gone for at 10 feet back on a 16:9 screen.

I went through the same initial dilemma with shelf vs ceiling mount. I went ceiling mount and couldn't be happier. It looks nicer and is easier to adjust. Just make sure you get a good mount if you go that way - I went with the Chief RPMA.

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post #1729 of 1953 Old 02-19-2015, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Epstein View Post
I am proud to say that I am now an owner of the Sony HW55ES.

This is my first front projector. Ordered it yesterday. It will be here tomorrow.

I also ordered the XPand RF emitter and the Sony conversion cable. Not happy both cost me nearly $300, but I wanted to use the same RF glasses that I was using with my Samsung plasma. I bought some really nice rechargeable RF glasses that I wanted to use with this projector.



Will be a week until my 118" diagonal 16x9 screen arrives and then I have to get an installer in.

Thinking of putting the Sony on a high cabinet shelf on the opposite end of the room. Throw distance will be just over 16 feet. Hope that will be fine. If not, I have to deal with mounting the projector to a drop ceiling.

I echo the question a few posts above as to important initial settings I may want to be aware of --- particularly when watching 3D.

Look forward to hearing from other owners.
I've hung mine from the ceiling before, but find I prefer to have it on a stand behind my viewing position. Much easier to move around and adjust as needed. Projector noise has never been an issue, moreso with my 55ES than the VW60 I had before. Plus I'm able to have it at center of the screen height.

See ya. Dave

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post #1730 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 06:39 AM
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I've hung mine from the ceiling before, but find I prefer to have it on a stand behind my viewing position. Much easier to move around and adjust as needed. Projector noise has never been an issue, moreso with my 55ES than the VW60 I had before. Plus I'm able to have it at center of the screen height.
I am getting a 118" diagonal screen, 16x9

The throw distance will be 16' if I put it on a high cabinet shelf on the opposite end of the room.

Would that provide enough brightness for 3D?

If not, do you think I would be better off putting the projector above my head or just forward from the seating position at about 7-10 feet?

I know there is a projector wizard page, but I am not certain I am using it correctly, so I thought I would ask the pros here.
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post #1731 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Epstein View Post
I am getting a 118" diagonal screen, 16x9

The throw distance will be 16' if I put it on a high cabinet shelf on the opposite end of the room.

Would that provide enough brightness for 3D?

If not, do you think I would be better off putting the projector above my head or just forward from the seating position at about 7-10 feet?

I know there is a projector wizard page, but I am not certain I am using it correctly, so I thought I would ask the pros here.
I've got a Carada BW 118" 16:9 screen and the throw on my 55ES is right around 16'. I do run it on high lamp for 2D and 3D and I find it bright enough for 3D (about 250 hrs. on this lamp), though YMMV.

See ya. Dave

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post #1732 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 07:45 AM
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Anyone using HDMI-CEC to control their gear?

I have been using a harmony smart control remote, but it isn't super smooth and it doesn't work for a PS4 which does support CEC. My issue is that everything is located in another room and the projector remote has nothing for volume and media control so I was assuming I would have to use the controller for my Denon receiver. I guess I would need a IR repeater?
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post #1733 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 08:39 AM
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I've got a Carada BW 118" 16:9 screen and the throw on my 55ES is right around 16'. I do run it on high lamp for 2D and 3D and I find it bright enough for 3D (about 250 hrs. on this lamp), though YMMV.
Thank you for this. We are in the same position, amazingly.

Do you NEED to run the lamp on high? I thought that drastically reduces lamp life.

Would it be better for me to mount the projector closer so I don't have to run it on high?

Appreciate the advice as I am really new to all of this.
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post #1734 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
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Thank you for this. We are in the same position, amazingly.

Do you NEED to run the lamp on high? I thought that drastically reduces lamp life.

Would it be better for me to mount the projector closer so I don't have to run it on high?

Appreciate the advice as I am really new to all of this.
I am currently using my 55ES with a 120" 1.1 gain VAPEX screen -- with a 14.5' throw. I run 2D with low lamp and in Auto Limited mode on the Iris -- and it is plenty bright. 3D is plenty bright for my taste as well. BTW -- 3D mode automatically causes the 55ES to kick into high lamp/dynamic mode.
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post #1735 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Epstein View Post
Thank you for this. We are in the same position, amazingly.

Do you NEED to run the lamp on high? I thought that drastically reduces lamp life.

Would it be better for me to mount the projector closer so I don't have to run it on high?

Appreciate the advice as I am really new to all of this.

I prefer the brightness of High Lamp. Also, High was part of the settings that I found from the review at projectorreviews.com that worked perfectly for me.

Iris and RCP are both turned off with these settings.

See ya. Dave

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post #1736 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 10:07 AM
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I prefer the brightness of High Lamp. Also, High was part of the settings that I found from the review at projectorreviews.com that worked perfectly for me.

Iris and RCP are both turned off with these settings.

Some of us prefer a bright picture. I'm one of them.

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post #1737 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 10:31 AM
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Some of us prefer a bright picture. I'm one of them.
Craig -- since you are in the house. Are you aware of anyone using the 55ES with a 135" 1.1 gain screen and getting enough brightness to do 3D?
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post #1738 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 10:47 AM
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Craig -- since you are in the house. Are you aware of anyone using the 55ES with a 135" 1.1 gain screen and getting enough brightness to do 3D?

That's pretty big - and the problem with " is it bright enough " discussions, is lamp output is an ever sliding scale. Lamps vary and constantly dim. How close is the projector mounted to the screen? I'd say not bright enough, but one can always zoom the picture smaller for 3D.

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post #1739 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 10:58 AM
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That's pretty big - and the problem with " is it bright enough " discussions, is lamp output is an ever sliding scale. Lamps vary and constantly dim. How close is the projector mounted to the screen? I'd say not bright enough, but one can always zoom the picture smaller for 3D.
PJ at 14.5' on ceiling. I have found it to be plenty bright with a 120" screen -- but I know adding 15" diagonal is a lot of real estate. Front row eyeballs are 13.5' back -- and second row are 20' back. But to answer the age old question of "why upgrade" ... answer, because I can -- I have the wall space.

I may decide to either upgrade to a 600ES or downgrade to a 40ES to get the extra lumens to make it work.

Edit: I guess one thing I could do is zoom the PJ out to what would be the screen at 135" and see how it looks. Only problem is I would have to refocus the PJ (which is a pain to do by myself).

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post #1740 of 1953 Old 02-20-2015, 11:13 AM
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PJ at 14.5' on ceiling. I have found it to be plenty bright with a 120" screen -- but I know adding 15" diagonal is a lot of real estate. Front row eyeballs are 13.5' back -- and second row are 20' back. But to answer the age old question of "why upgrade" ... answer, because I can -- I have the wall space.

I may decide to either upgrade to a 600ES or downgrade to a 40ES to get the extra lumens to make it work.

Edit: I guess one thing I could do is zoom the PJ out to what would be the screen at 135" and see how it looks. Only problem is I would have to refocus the PJ (which is a pain to do by myself).
That is what you need to do. Only way to answer the question for you.

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