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post #2371 of 2811 Old 12-09-2015, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by danielrg View Post
I'd be curious to see what others think as well.

Honestly, if your room is mostly light colors and you may have lights on occasionally that hit the screen at all, I don't think it would be worth the money to you to get the Sony. The Optoma costs much less than the Sony, but I think might be pretty much just as good. You might notice a slight improvement in black levels, but that can be eaten up quickly if there is any back reflection on the screen, which can happen in a light environment.

I've never seen the Optoma in person - so I can't speak from experience. You may want to see if you can find a place to audition the Sony - they have the HW40ES at most Best Buy stores with the Magnolia theater outlet - which if you were considering a Sony I think would be better for your situation - it puts out more light at the slight expense of contrast in some scenes. I'd also consider some of the Epson projectors too. I think the Epson 3020 or 3500 projectors might be able to give you a little more color pop without popping the budget, and they'd be similar in brightness to the Optoma.

To get one of the high contrast projectors like Sony HW55ES or the Epson 5030/6030, I think you need to have a well controlled room where there is not much back reflection on the screen and it really is pretty dark.

All that said - if you did get the Sony I think you'd like it, color is great, contrast is great, performance is very good, and the pixel structure I really like if you get close - but it would probably not be as bright as the Optoma, and you might not like that, that said it would definitely be bright enough for me on a 106" if the lights are off even in a light colored room. Another thing to consider - the Epsons come in a white case, and if your room is light colors you might like the white case. So its a great projector, just not sure that you'd see the value from the extra money over the mid-grade Epsons.

Again, never seen an Optoma in person though - hoping others might say something. Nothing beats auditioning - if you can find them, which isn't always easy...
Thank you! i will do my homework (-:
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post #2372 of 2811 Old 12-10-2015, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kawie01 View Post
While gaming on my 55es, I get bad motion blur. I have motion flow on high, tried changes all setting to no avail. Any ideas.
I game on mine all the time. Do you have VSYNC enabled in the game? It helps reduce motion blur. For the Projector I have Motion Enhancer set to low and Film mode Off.
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post #2373 of 2811 Old 12-13-2015, 04:00 AM
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Hi. Under Cinema Black Pro, does the Manual setting influence the Auto Limited setting?
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post #2374 of 2811 Old 12-13-2015, 02:27 PM
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Hi. Under Cinema Black Pro, does the Manual setting influence the Auto Limited setting?
Yes, that setting will be the highest the iris will go.

Looky here!
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post #2375 of 2811 Old 12-15-2015, 02:05 AM
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I thought I was posting this message here and later realized I'd clicked on some older thread about HW55ES 3-D....so posting it here. Should I delete it off other thread to avoid cross-posting? Anyway here it is:

I just purchased a Sony VPL-HW55ES.

After reading this forum and realizing that for $65 I could try RF 3-D and get some RF 3-D glasses, I took the plunge. I bought a shielded CAT7 cable and the

Xpand EX105BT Active 3D Shutter Glasses and Bluetooth Emitter for Mitsubishi Televisions:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o06_s00

I followed directions from linked to threads - sort of.

I just cut the cable, and used a terminal block like these that I had around:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s02

Stripped the Cat7 and the wires to the RF transmitter, crammed them into the terminal block, snipped off the solder legs (don't want antennas) electrical tape, foil (faraday cage over terminal block to reduce interference) and more electrical tape.

Plugged it into the Sony projector, paired the XPAND glasses - and voila! 3-D.

I popped in TRON: Legacy 3-D.

So then the argh. Ghosting on the title menu. I couldn't get rid of it. If I adjusted the depth to +1, I could get ghosting on the menu words to go away, but it would make it worse in the background scenes going by. If I fixed the background scenes going by, it got worse on the menu screen.

There aren't very many options to fix the ghosting... Don't even know what the two 3-D sync settings are... standard and option? I tried both and it changed nothing...

Standard: This output is suitable for the built-in 3D Sync Transmitter and external 3D Sync Transmitter TMR-PJ2 (not supplied). This mode is the default setting.
Option: Select this mode when connecting a transmitter other thanTMR-PJ2.


I thought this RF thing wasn't going to work.

Then I played the movie. No ghosting that I could perceive! It just seemed to be during the Legacy menu screen. Weird.

Then I removed the 3-D sync transmitter and went back to IR.

I still had the ghosting on the menu screen with the Sony supplied IR glasses that came with the projector. Changing the depth had the same effects as with RF glasses.

So apparently the RF sync is working pretty much as well as the IR sync is. That's good I guess.

Are there glasses you can buy or transmitters you can buy that offer more settings to fine tune the 3D sync? That would still work with the Sony?

Because with both IR and RF I seem to get some ghosting on TRON:Legacy - menu screen (and maybe some places in movie - I didn't watch the whole thing). And I want.... perfection! I read reviews on TRON:Legacy 3D and no mention of ghosting. Read about another person using some "Monster 3-D" system that could fine tune the sync and they used the TRON:Legacy menu screen to get their 3d sync perfect. I want that...

Suggestions?

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post #2376 of 2811 Old 12-18-2015, 05:49 AM
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I've never figured out a solution. It hasn't happened in a long time, but it only happened when I was playing the Xbox One (not sure it's related). I have heard several people reporting the same issue so maybe it's a design flaw or something (maybe a lamp issue?). Anyway, good luck
Projector died last week. Sent to Sony repair facility to diagnose and it was the main board that failed. The facility received the unit on Monday and repaired and shipped on Thursday of the same week. Glad it was such a quick turn around.
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post #2377 of 2811 Old 12-18-2015, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bfgixxer View Post
Projector died last week. Sent to Sony repair facility to diagnose and it was the main board that failed. The facility received the unit on Monday and repaired and shipped on Thursday of the same week. Glad it was such a quick turn around.
That's good to hear. This was under warranty? Did you pay shipping one way, both ways?

Before I had the 55 I had the Espon 5030. Had an issue with it and day 2 a replacement showed up with a return label for the bad one. But it sounds like Sony is still very acceptable with their repair policy... assuming you didn't get stuck paying shipping.
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post #2378 of 2811 Old 12-18-2015, 09:23 AM
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That's good to hear. This was under warranty? Did you pay shipping one way, both ways?

Before I had the 55 I had the Espon 5030. Had an issue with it and day 2 a replacement showed up with a return label for the bad one. But it sounds like Sony is still very acceptable with their repair policy... assuming you didn't get stuck paying shipping.
It was under warranty but I had to pay shipping to the facility.
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post #2379 of 2811 Old 12-18-2015, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bfgixxer View Post
Projector died last week. Sent to Sony repair facility to diagnose and it was the main board that failed. The facility received the unit on Monday and repaired and shipped on Thursday of the same week. Glad it was such a quick turn around.
Glad to hear it was taken care of quickly. I have the Geek Squad additional warranty where they are supposed to deal with Sony on your behalf, but hopefully I won't have to use that card for a little while (I have an unit with good focus and convergence so I'm hesitant to send it in for a replacement).

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post #2380 of 2811 Old 12-19-2015, 03:53 AM
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Double post
Sorry !

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post #2381 of 2811 Old 12-19-2015, 03:58 AM
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"Film projection" and "film mode" under expert settings ..

Just got my 55 couple of weeks ago and I am very pleased with it.
I did the basic setup and I am still learning the device.
Anyhow, I can't find the "film mode" settings under expert menu ..
It is missing.. or it's hidden.
However "film projection" is set to off under "Motionflow" menu.

So do I need to set the "film projection" to on in order to see the "film mode" menus under "expert settings" ?

I am not sure what the film projection does.. The projector detects 24p when a blue ray is playing and detects the correct frame rate when a TV show is sent to it.

What am I missing here ?

Thanks in advance ..

Lior
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post #2382 of 2811 Old 12-24-2015, 06:41 PM
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Has anyone with a chief mount figured out how to clean the filter without disassembling the mount.
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post #2383 of 2811 Old 12-24-2015, 08:38 PM
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The filter on mine is on the bottom above the lens [ok, actually on top since the projector is upside down ] and is no where near the chief mount.

Even though the vents on the back in the manual say they are "intake" I think they are actually where the air goes out - especially since the only filter is in the front.
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post #2384 of 2811 Old 12-25-2015, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by the1shark View Post
Just got my 55 couple of weeks ago and I am very pleased with it.
I did the basic setup and I am still learning the device.
Anyhow, I can't find the "film mode" settings under expert menu ..
It is missing.. or it's hidden.
However "film projection" is set to off under "Motionflow" menu.

So do I need to set the "film projection" to on in order to see the "film mode" menus under "expert settings" ?

I am not sure what the film projection does.. The projector detects 24p when a blue ray is playing and detects the correct frame rate when a TV show is sent to it.

What am I missing here ?

Thanks in advance ..

Lior
I figured it out, it is missing or hidden when the signal is 24 frame.
Anyhow I don't understand what it does to the content when it has 60 frame..
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post #2385 of 2811 Old 12-25-2015, 10:20 AM
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I figured it out, it is missing or hidden when the signal is 24 frame.
Anyhow I don't understand what it does to the content when it has 60 frame..
Film mode is just that _ it's supposed to mimic the "film like" experience when watching a video captured at 60 frames per second.
In other words it will take away the "soap opera" effect of 60 fps video and give the appearance of frame judder.

This is why the option is not available when a 24 fps source is detected.
The 24 fps source is already doing what the "film mode" function is set to do _ make it look like film and not video.
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Last edited by JeffR1; 12-25-2015 at 10:23 AM.
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post #2386 of 2811 Old 12-26-2015, 11:44 AM
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I have had my HW55ES for about a month, and put 30 hours on the bulb.

Recently, I have developed a flickering issue - well it is more like the image almost randomly goes dimmer and brighter and dimmer, sometimes rapidly, sometimes half a second apart, pretty randomly dimming and going brighter.

It is most noticeable in bright scenes. It will do this, and even when I pause the flickering/random dimness / brightness continues.

If I switch inputs and go back, that fixes it for a random time - which is getting shorter. Yesterday, it was only a couple minutes and it was doing it again. I reset to factory settings and re-selected "Reference" mode and low lamp (for my 110" it's too bright in high lamp in my opinion plus I want the lamp to last over 2x longer anyway with the price of replacing it).

After the reset it seemed to be good for the rest of the show (about 20 minutes).

Did other testing like switching inputs, trying another cable, and it seems clear that it is the projector, not my sources (Marantz SR7009 and Oppo BDP-103D) or cables. I'm running the projector from a battery backup (CyberPower Sinewave series).

I have read a bit on this thread - there are four or five people who seem to have experienced this and posted here. There is a youtube video that seems to show it - I think. But my flicker isn't at any steady frequency - it is somewhat random.

I turned the iris off when it was happening and it didn't stop. Don't know if the iris is malfunctioning or if it is a power fluctuation to the bulb?

Since the projector has been out a while, wondering if the cause is known? Anything I can do to mitigate? Some said high power mode bulb and it isn't as bad, but that's a crummy solution.

If the real answer is call my dealer and return it or talk to Sony - I guess that's that. Hoping there is a simpler solution.

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post #2387 of 2811 Old 12-26-2015, 01:19 PM
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Beginning to wonder if my problem is a common bulb problem called "arc wander".

One recommendation is:

"One common solution, if the lamp is fairly new, is to run it in high power for a while to establish a stable strike point."

Makes me think that when a projector/bulb is new, it would be best to run on high lamp mode for maybe 100 hours... One could use the "Auto limited iris" setting to dim the picture if high bulb mode is too bright, or so you don't get used to a super bright bulb. Then change to low lamp mode later after the "strike points" are more stable. I might try this.

Some think the lamp the Sony uses isn't manufactured really well, or the power regulation for the lamp isn't as high quality on some projector power boards, causing inrush current issues or other stability issues. So it can still be due to the projector - making a bulb more prone to flicker.

Arc Wander has been discussed in various places. One thread describes it like this:

It s caused by the arc striking in different places on the anode/cathode and establishing multiple strike points, the arc can then begin to wander between those strike points, causing the flicker. It can actually wear a track between the points and then begin to wander slowly and very annoyingly.

Causes I found on another thread say (came from a discussion on professional theater Xenon lamp flicker with very high power bulbs):

This can happen under some of these circumstances:
1. The cathodes and anodes are badly eroded due to age or defect, or manufacturing issues.
2. Deformed anodes and cathodes due to poor power supply filtering.
3. Deformed anodes and cathodes due to excessive in-rush current.
4. Deformed anodes and cathodes due to long igniter "lay-on's."
5. Weak or mis-adjusted magnets if the bulb requires the use of them.
6. Operating a bulb with magnets when it does not want them
7. Stray magnetic fields getting too close to the bulb.
8. Bulb being operated outside the recommended electrical parameters.
9. Bulb being operated outside the recommended mechanical parameters.

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post #2388 of 2811 Old 12-28-2015, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielrg View Post
Beginning to wonder if my problem is a common bulb problem called "arc wander".

One recommendation is:

"One common solution, if the lamp is fairly new, is to run it in high power for a while to establish a stable strike point."

Makes me think that when a projector/bulb is new, it would be best to run on high lamp mode for maybe 100 hours... One could use the "Auto limited iris" setting to dim the picture if high bulb mode is too bright, or so you don't get used to a super bright bulb. Then change to low lamp mode later after the "strike points" are more stable. I might try this.

Some think the lamp the Sony uses isn't manufactured really well, or the power regulation for the lamp isn't as high quality on some projector power boards, causing inrush current issues or other stability issues. So it can still be due to the projector - making a bulb more prone to flicker.

Arc Wander has been discussed in various places. One thread describes it like this:

It s caused by the arc striking in different places on the anode/cathode and establishing multiple strike points, the arc can then begin to wander between those strike points, causing the flicker. It can actually wear a track between the points and then begin to wander slowly and very annoyingly.

Causes I found on another thread say (came from a discussion on professional theater Xenon lamp flicker with very high power bulbs):

This can happen under some of these circumstances:
1. The cathodes and anodes are badly eroded due to age or defect, or manufacturing issues.
2. Deformed anodes and cathodes due to poor power supply filtering.
3. Deformed anodes and cathodes due to excessive in-rush current.
4. Deformed anodes and cathodes due to long igniter "lay-on's."
5. Weak or mis-adjusted magnets if the bulb requires the use of them.
6. Operating a bulb with magnets when it does not want them
7. Stray magnetic fields getting too close to the bulb.
8. Bulb being operated outside the recommended electrical parameters.
9. Bulb being operated outside the recommended mechanical parameters.
I've seen a lot of this lately on mine where its starting to be a no go for me and have thought of calling in Sony support. From reading your post are you saying that if I have this problem that isn't in the board now and even changing a bulb won't fix it?

I've figured out that I love the picture with the Auto-Iris set on full with Cinema black pro set to low but this causes the most brightness flicker. Weirdly enough I can watch things for about 30mins this way with no issue before it will begin to flicker. Once it does the only way I found to fix it is to switch Cinema black pro to high which ups the brightness. Also oddly enough after a while even that will start to fail and flicker so its a no win situation. I've seen a lot of reports on this lately after encountering this issue. Has anyone gotten Sony to replace their projector after calling in? Mine is about 1yr old so still under warranty but I can't put up with it much longer especially at this price point.
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post #2389 of 2811 Old 12-28-2015, 08:31 AM
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Fliker issue has happend to me too after 12h on tne lamp but only once at this point ( lamp has 30h on it ).
Called Sony and they said it is probably the lamp. They also said that this issue is common when the lamp is new. Any how they ask me to replace the lamp but I have decided to wait and see if this fliker issue will return. ( and we all know it will return , there are quite a few posts refering to this issue ..)
So 2 new projectors with same problem this is not good ..
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post #2390 of 2811 Old 12-28-2015, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jruc03 View Post
I've seen a lot of this lately on mine where its starting to be a no go for me and have thought of calling in Sony support. From reading your post are you saying that if I have this problem that isn't in the board now and even changing a bulb won't fix it?

I've figured out that I love the picture with the Auto-Iris set on full with Cinema black pro set to low but this causes the most brightness flicker. Weirdly enough I can watch things for about 30mins this way with no issue before it will begin to flicker. Once it does the only way I found to fix it is to switch Cinema black pro to high which ups the brightness. Also oddly enough after a while even that will start to fail and flicker so its a no win situation. I've seen a lot of reports on this lately after encountering this issue. Has anyone gotten Sony to replace their projector after calling in? Mine is about 1yr old so still under warranty but I can't put up with it much longer especially at this price point.
I'm pretty sure it is the bulb. A new bulb would be the solution, but only if the bulb is good. There are other possibilities, like problems with the power regulator to the bulb, but much more likely it is the bulb.

Some on other sites have been thinking this specific Sony bulb is prone to this or they produced a few bad batches. I'm going to try running it on high power mode for 40-50 hours and then try eco mode again.

I can use "Auto Limited" iris to dim it if I so desire (if I don't want to get used to the brightness and then be disappointed when I switch back to eco mode) - and so can you. Set the "Manual iris" for the max brightness you want, then change to auto-limited and it will only open to the amount you set in manual iris at max.

The least expensive solution is to try running on high for a few 10s of hours then go back to eco and see how it does. The next least expensive is to try a new bulb.

It's annoying because it could be a power regulation issue that causes the bulb to go bad fast, OR it could be a bad bulb. There's no way to know for sure. If it happens early and often with several bulbs in a row, I'd think there was a problem with the projector. But even then, it could be bad bulb manufacturing.

Not something we should have to live with when paying this much for a projector - BUT I have read this happens even with cinema grade bulbs sometimes... just not right in the first 100 hours like I've read is happening to several owners of the HW55ES/HW40ES.

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post #2391 of 2811 Old 12-28-2015, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the1shark View Post
Fliker issue has happend to me too after 12h on tne lamp but only once at this point ( lamp has 30h on it ).
Called Sony and they said it is probably the lamp. They also said that this issue is common when the lamp is new. Any how they ask me to replace the lamp but I have decided to wait and see if this fliker issue will return. ( and we all know it will return , there are quite a few posts refering to this issue ..)
So 2 new projectors with same problem this is not good ..
I read that if you go to high power for a while (several 10s of hours) you are more likely to be able to keep the bulb from developing various arc points and doing this more chronically. If you stay in eco and "live with it" when it happens, it will only get worse, then when you go to high power out of desperation, it will be too late and the various arc points will be established, and it will eventually happen in high mode too.

If it happens in high power mode regularly, the bulb is not likely to recover, and you should get a new bulb.

Like I said in my last post, most likely bad bulb, but more rarely could be power regulation. Since I don't want the unit to be out of commission for repair if its only a bulb, I'll try a new bulb if service is willing to send you one, then only send in for service is the 2nd bulb develops it within the first 100 hours also...

I'm no expert but wonder if running a bulb for the first 100 hours at high power only is better for break in and so it can establish a strong strike point and then run more stably in eco mode after that.

Looking for any other experience/opinions.

Just for fun, I started a separate thread for bulb flicker issues in general here:

Managing Projector Bulb Flicker

We'll see if it gets any traffic.

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post #2392 of 2811 Old 01-02-2016, 09:34 AM
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I'm pretty sure it is the bulb. A new bulb would be the solution, but only if the bulb is good. There are other possibilities, like problems with the power regulator to the bulb, but much more likely it is the bulb.

Some on other sites have been thinking this specific Sony bulb is prone to this or they produced a few bad batches. I'm going to try running it on high power mode for 40-50 hours and then try eco mode again.

I can use "Auto Limited" iris to dim it if I so desire (if I don't want to get used to the brightness and then be disappointed when I switch back to eco mode) - and so can you. Set the "Manual iris" for the max brightness you want, then change to auto-limited and it will only open to the amount you set in manual iris at max.

The least expensive solution is to try running on high for a few 10s of hours then go back to eco and see how it does. The next least expensive is to try a new bulb.

It's annoying because it could be a power regulation issue that causes the bulb to go bad fast, OR it could be a bad bulb. There's no way to know for sure. If it happens early and often with several bulbs in a row, I'd think there was a problem with the projector. But even then, it could be bad bulb manufacturing.

Not something we should have to live with when paying this much for a projector - BUT I have read this happens even with cinema grade bulbs sometimes... just not right in the first 100 hours like I've read is happening to several owners of the HW55ES/HW40ES.
I've still been noticing this a lot after viewing quite a few movies with my family in over the holiday (went through the entire marvel collection with my brother). Funny thing was any movie in 3D wasn't affected by the flicker (probably because the cinema black pro setting is removed in 3D which I assume amps up the brightness and covers the issue). I will try the manual Iris setting your state and see if that helps. Another question though would setting the cinema black pro to high and doing a recalibration be the same as this you think or will it also produce the flicker? I'm guessing it might not work as my recalibration would result in lowering the brightness to an acceptable level which might cause the flicker again. Anyway i'll try it all out and report back with some findings. Thanks for the suggestions as I really don't want to argue with Sony about a free replacement bulb or swap out of the projector all together just yet.
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post #2393 of 2811 Old 01-02-2016, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Jruc03 View Post
I've still been noticing this a lot after viewing quite a few movies with my family in over the holiday (went through the entire marvel collection with my brother). Funny thing was any movie in 3D wasn't affected by the flicker (probably because the cinema black pro setting is removed in 3D which I assume amps up the brightness and covers the issue). I will try the manual Iris setting your state and see if that helps. Another question though would setting the cinema black pro to high and doing a recalibration be the same as this you think or will it also produce the flicker? I'm guessing it might not work as my recalibration would result in lowering the brightness to an acceptable level which might cause the flicker again. Anyway i'll try it all out and report back with some findings. Thanks for the suggestions as I really don't want to argue with Sony about a free replacement bulb or swap out of the projector all together just yet.
How many hours do you have on your unit? I would switch Cinema Black Pro to "High" right away. If you continue to run it in low you may make it so you cannot recover the bulb. Run the bulb on "high" for at least 50-100 hours, then try eco/low mode again. You pretty much _have_ to run it on high for tens of hours to see if you can get it to go away. Switching back to eco too soon and it will just come back.

Yes - it won't happen on 3D, because the projector turns everything to "high" automatically in 3D (iris and bulb power) to get the best brightness.

You only need to set the iris to "auto-limited" if you think it's too bright in "high". I set my "manual" setting to 50, then turned it to "Auto-Limited" to keep the max iris at 50. That's just so I don't get too used to it being really bright. The best bet for a REAL fix is to change cinema black pro lamp mode to HIGH for 50-100 hours.
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post #2394 of 2811 Old 01-02-2016, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jruc03 View Post
I've still been noticing this a lot after viewing quite a few movies with my family in over the holiday (went through the entire marvel collection with my brother). Funny thing was any movie in 3D wasn't affected by the flicker (probably because the cinema black pro setting is removed in 3D which I assume amps up the brightness and covers the issue). I will try the manual Iris setting your state and see if that helps. Another question though would setting the cinema black pro to high and doing a recalibration be the same as this you think or will it also produce the flicker? I'm guessing it might not work as my recalibration would result in lowering the brightness to an acceptable level which might cause the flicker again. Anyway i'll try it all out and report back with some findings. Thanks for the suggestions as I really don't want to argue with Sony about a free replacement bulb or swap out of the projector all together just yet.
Dont know if it helps, but 3D mode also forces high lamp mode.
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post #2395 of 2811 Old 01-04-2016, 12:06 AM
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Please have a look at the German lens results vs a Simple Fl-D lens.....

The first picture is a Tiffen promo photo for their lens to control UV, fluorescent bulbs, green and blue cast. ( Uncontrolled UHP bulb traditionally lacking red output ? )
The second is a composite of their images I posted to compare, before filter on User Preset 5, and with the filter and their settings applied.


Stay tuned I am testing a solution.



I received this response today from the Lens supplier:


Hello,

i´m sorry but we do not ship to the US.


Best regards

Andreas Dittrich

Hi


Any chance someone can send me their recommended settings using the fl-d filter, I hoping I can start with a set of base settings and tweak


Many Thanks
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post #2396 of 2811 Old 01-04-2016, 01:48 AM
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Question. I am trying to play a 3D movie. The HW55ES is capable of playing 3D and I have a 3D capable Sony Blu Ray player. When I try to play a 3D movie, it is telling me I don't have a 3D device.

I am running everything through my Integra DTR-50.3 receiver. The only thing I can figure is that the receiver is not picking up the 3D. I don't know if there is a setting in the receiver I need to set or what. Any suggestions?

I have posted this on the Integra site as well, but have not heard anything yet. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2397 of 2811 Old 01-04-2016, 01:59 AM
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Question. I am trying to play a 3D movie. The HW55ES is capable of playing 3D and I have a 3D capable Sony Blu Ray player. When I try to play a 3D movie, it is telling me I don't have a 3D device.

I am running everything through my Integra DTR-50.3 receiver. The only thing I can figure is that the receiver is not picking up the 3D. I don't know if there is a setting in the receiver I need to set or what. Any suggestions?

I have posted this on the Integra site as well, but have not heard anything yet. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Your AVR does not support 3D.
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post #2398 of 2811 Old 01-04-2016, 02:02 AM
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Thanks. That's what I was thinking, but was not totally positive
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post #2399 of 2811 Old 01-05-2016, 03:15 PM
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Got my vpl-hw55es in yesterday.

Initial thoughts:

- Holy cow this thing is huge! Much bigger than the BenQ HT2050 I originally purchased (and returned), and heavier
- Very beautiful case
- SO quiet, way more quiet than the BenQ, if the Epson is louder than the BenQ, I can't imagine how people deal with it!
- Light leakage is almost non-existent

I threw it up against the bare wall, and 'mounted it' very ghetto using a step ladder with a work platform attachment which allowed me to place it upside down and roughly at a similar height to where I will actually mount it.

Very first thought? NO RAINBOWS! YAY!

- Screen had some convergence issues out of the box, after calibrating, noticed that it drifts from the center of the screen, probably due to optics
- I'll try using the panel 'zone' feature to tweak every section of the screen to resolve this, even with just aligning for the center it still looks good
- Focus is fairly even, I do notice the lack of 'tack' focus, and Reality Creation at 'Min' does improve this.

Contrast? You betcha!

My temporary signal chain (until I finish my media center PC), is MacBook Pro 2010 -> DisplayPort -> HDMI Adapter -> PJ

When I ran it from Boot Camp into Windows, I was getting some pretty poor black levels. At first I was a little disappointed, figuring 'well, I knew it probably wasn't going to be as good as the DLP BenQ', but after watching it longer I realized it was definitely a black level mismatch. After changing the HDMI input to 16-235, black levels were spot on and DARK as could be.

I couldn't believe it! Blacks were as good as the BenQ, but the contrast was a million times better. I later switched to OS X on the Mac, and the reverse was true, Mac was outputting in Full Range (0-255), and again once matched the blacks were excellent.

I watched the first matrix movie on it, specifically because it brought out really bad rainbows and strobing when watching it on the BenQ, and the difference was night and day. Contrast was great, motion was handled flawlessly, no rainbows, no motion sickness or dizziness.

Settings?

- I'm running it at full lamp for at least 100 hours to be safe, as per the above posts on flickering, no flickering yet, thankfully!
- Trying it out with 50% max Dynamic Iris. I left Dynamic Iris on during the matrix and it's honestly the first dynamic brightness feature I've ever used that was NOT distracting.
- I used 'Reference' mode, I will calibrate once I get my screen up
- I disabled all post-processing features except for Reality Creation (set to 'Min').

So now I'm just waiting on my adjustable NPT mounting tube to arrive so I can start taking measurements and get it mounted! I also have a 120" Silver Ticket Grey screen waiting to be mounted for it.
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post #2400 of 2811 Old 01-05-2016, 04:25 PM
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The filter on mine is on the bottom above the lens [ok, actually on top since the projector is upside down ] and is no where near the chief mount.

Even though the vents on the back in the manual say they are "intake" I think they are actually where the air goes out - especially since the only filter is in the front.
Maybe I have the mount on wrong or a different mount.
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