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Old 01-11-2016, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
I just bought the HW55 today, and the retailer said to send the rebate into to:

proparts@am.sony.com

Maybe give that a shot.
That worked! They replied right back with instructions on how to get the bulb, thx again.
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MoviePerson View Post
Anyone using the projector with HTPC, If so has anyone gotten 3d working? When playing 3d MVC mkv or ISO rips it shows that the source is 3d frame packing but it doesnt switch the projector to 3d mode.

I hooked up another media streamer to test it out and when playing the the 3D iso it automatically switched the projector to 3D.

Maybe some sort of handshake issue with Nvidia card???

I tried both Kodi and Power Dvd with no luck.
Kodi doesn't support frame packed. What version of Power DVD is it?

Looky here!
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Jbed27 View Post
That worked! They replied right back with instructions on how to get the bulb, thx again.
Cool!
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:00 PM
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I'm pretty new to projectors, especially ones with a manual iris. How do you go about setting your target luminance? If I'm shooting for the usual 16 ftL or so, do I use the limited iris mode?
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Old 01-12-2016, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
I'm pretty new to projectors, especially ones with a manual iris. How do you go about setting your target luminance? If I'm shooting for the usual 16 ftL or so, do I use the limited iris mode?
Right now since I'm trying to burn in my bulb, I have lamp on full and I'm using the auto-limited iris to get to a target max brightness.

Once I finish burn in, I'll probably switch to low lamp mode and increase the range of the iris.
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Old 01-12-2016, 05:45 AM
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Thanks. So is the iris sort of like backlight on an LCD TV? I mean, I know it functions differently, but it's used to control overall brightness of the image?
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post
Kodi doesn't support frame packed. What version of Power DVD is it?
Power DVD 15 Ultra (Trial version).

Sony VPL-HW55ES
Elite Screens 135" SableFrame CineGrey5d
Marantz Slimeline NR1403
Infinity Primus 5.1 Set
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MoviePerson View Post
Power DVD 15 Ultra (Trial version).
The trial version doesn't support 3D playback. Read the limitations section.

http://www.cyberlink.com/prog/trial/...S&&param3=3583
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:42 AM
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Ahhh, that explains it. Thank you.

At the price they are asking im just going to get a Raspberry Pi 2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post
The trial version doesn't support 3D playback. Read the limitations section.

http://www.cyberlink.com/prog/trial/...S&&param3=3583

Sony VPL-HW55ES
Elite Screens 135" SableFrame CineGrey5d
Marantz Slimeline NR1403
Infinity Primus 5.1 Set

Last edited by MoviePerson; 01-12-2016 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 01-12-2016, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MoviePerson View Post
Ahhh, that explains it. Thank you.

At the price they are asking im just going to get a Raspberry Pi 2.
That's what I did. I set it up with the same skin as our HTPC, and with only my 3D movies in the library.

Looky here!
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
Thanks. So is the iris sort of like backlight on an LCD TV? I mean, I know it functions differently, but it's used to control overall brightness of the image?
In some ways it's similar to backlight, in that you're reducing the actual total light output.

In my opinion, the backlight on an LCD TV would be the Projector's Bulb Power, and changing the 'backlight power' in an LCD TV would be like changing the 'bulb HIGH \ LOW' setting in the PJ.

The Iris is more akin to a dynamic brightness setting, which in an LCD TV would dynamically change the backlight setting to improve contrast.

Even so, many of us seem to be using the iris to limit total output power.
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Old 01-12-2016, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doubledgedboard View Post
In some ways it's similar to backlight, in that you're reducing the actual total light output.

In my opinion, the backlight on an LCD TV would be the Projector's Bulb Power, and changing the 'backlight power' in an LCD TV would be like changing the 'bulb HIGH \ LOW' setting in the PJ.

The Iris is more akin to a dynamic brightness setting, which in an LCD TV would dynamically change the backlight setting to improve contrast.

Even so, many of us seem to be using the iris to limit total output power.
Thanks. I'll have to play around with it and see what works. My last projector (that I only had for a week, lol) had a dynamic iris, but no manual adjustments could be made, so the only way to hit a target brightness was by raising/lowering contrast.
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:13 PM
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Are you guys always putting the lens cap back on when not in use? I'm sure I'll be using this PJ daily, so it seems like a bit of a PITA.
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
Are you guys always putting the lens cap back on when not in use? I'm sure I'll be using this PJ daily, so it seems like a bit of a PITA.

I was for awhile and then stopped. Aside from it being a PITA, I didn't want to risk messing up my focus setting since getting the focus just right on these projectors can be a challenge.
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dbturbo2 View Post
I was for awhile and then stopped. Aside from it being a PITA, I didn't want to risk messing up my focus setting since getting the focus just right on these projectors can be a challenge.
Cool. Messing up focus was the main reason I wanted to avoid it, too. I have a little air blower gadget that I use to get dust off my camera lenses, so that should do the trick for this, too.
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by robnix View Post
That's what I did. I set it up with the same skin as our HTPC, and with only my 3D movies in the library.
This is interesting. I use Jriver (not kodi anymore) and got the 3D working using a custom script to launch Stereoscopic Player. (I also needed the Nvidia 3DPLay software.)

I wouldn't really mind having a separate gizmo dedicated to 3D playback.... I'm sort of concerned though the Rasp Pi 2 is such a underpowered gizmo that I likely have better playback from my current HTPC setup.

-Brian
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hampton View Post
This is interesting. I use Jriver (not kodi anymore) and got the 3D working using a custom script to launch Stereoscopic Player. (I also needed the Nvidia 3DPLay software.)

I wouldn't really mind having a separate gizmo dedicated to 3D playback.... I'm sort of concerned though the Rasp Pi 2 is such a underpowered gizmo that I likely have better playback from my current HTPC setup.

-Brian
I've been through a bunch of players. Dune, PCH, Zappiti etc... The video and audio playback quality of the pi2 is the equal of any of them.

Where it lags in performance is

If you use the SD Card for the Kodi data. SD Card R/W just can't keep up. Problem solved with a USB stick.
Skins can be laggy or just not work, but as long as you use a lightweight skin like Mimic or Convergence, skin performance is very good.

You do need to buy the MPEG2 and VC-1 licenses, but they're about $4.00 combined.

For $50.00 all in they can't be beat in my book.

Looky here!
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:06 PM
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Just got the new projector up and running, and it's really nice. I notice a little pinkish tinting when looking at gray test patterns, but real content seems fine. A noticed a few oddities that don't jibe with reviews I've read.

I left the PJ in 'reference' mode.
  • According to my meter, the most accurate color temp is actually D55 (not D65 like reviews say).
  • Also, gamma was pretty far off with the "gamma correction" turned off (it was too high, closer to 2). I turned on gamma correction and setting it to 2.4 gave a measured result close to 2.2
  • The default contrast setting of 90 was clipping everything above 234. I dropped it down to 81, and things looked better
  • I'm not sure what Iris Limited is doing, but it's not working as described. I set brightness on a white pattern to around 17 ftL (manual iris is around 15 or so). When I switch to iris limited, the screen gets brighter, and my peak white is a hair over 20 ftL. At any rate, I decided to leave it on Auto Limited for now, as 20 ftL seems like a reasonable brightness for viewing in a dark room. The PJ can get very bright on full power, but my screen is only 90" and the throw distance is maybe 12'
Anyone else have a similar experience as far as calibrating goes? What are you guys using for Reality Creation? I dropped the resolution setting down to 10, but even then, on-screen text has some artifacts around it. In fact, any setting seems to artifact a bit. Turning it totally off does seem more blurry.

Here's a quick shot from my phone...
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Last edited by milehighou; 01-13-2016 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:50 AM
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[*]According to my meter, the most accurate color temp is actually D55 (not D65 like reviews say).
That would depend on the screen, unless you're measuring directly at the projector lens.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:54 AM
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That would depend on the screen, unless you're measuring directly at the projector lens.
Thanks, that makes sense. Yes, I was measuring from the screen.

All in all, I'm pretty happy so far. I'm not sure about the iris modes. Any of the auto modes definitely seem to affect the gamma, but if I go for manual (gamma is flatter) and set peak brightness to a certain ftL, then I'm not really getting the best blacks that I could.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
All in all, I'm pretty happy so far.
I thought you were fed up with projectors and were going back to TVs?

Quote:
Any of the auto modes definitely seem to affect the gamma, but if I go for manual (gamma is flatter) and set peak brightness to a certain ftL, then I'm not really getting the best blacks that I could.
I haven't seen a perfect solution to this. Some would just calibrate using manual mode and turn on the auto afterwards; others would calibrate in auto mode but use APL patterns to "trick" the projector.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
I thought you were fed up with projectors and were going back to TVs?

I was pretty frustrated , but the I started researching TVs again, and from the tests I've seen here:

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-...een-effect-dse

They all have the same tinting effect to some degree. In fact, from the photos, they all look worse than anything I see with my PJ, so I figure why downgrade?


I haven't seen a perfect solution to this. Some would just calibrate using manual mode and turn on the auto afterwards; others would calibrate in auto mode but use APL patterns to "trick" the projector.
Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
I thought you were fed up with projectors and were going back to TVs?
I was pretty frustrated , but the I started researching TVs again, and from the tests I've seen here:

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/by-...een-effect-dse

They all have the same tinting effect to some degree. In fact, from the photos, they all look worse than anything I see with my PJ, so I figure why downgrade?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
I haven't seen a perfect solution to this. Some would just calibrate using manual mode and turn on the auto afterwards; others would calibrate in auto mode but use APL patterns to "trick" the projector.
Thanks. I noticed that if I calibrate in manual iris mode and set peak white to a target, say 16 ftL, auto iris limited doesn't respect this ceiling. As soon as I flip over to the limited setting, brightness increases by around 5 ftL.

Last edited by milehighou; 01-14-2016 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
Just got the new projector up and running, and it's really nice. I notice a little pinkish tinting when looking at gray test patterns, but real content seems fine. A noticed a few oddities that don't jibe with reviews I've read.

I left the PJ in 'reference' mode.
  • According to my meter, the most accurate color temp is actually D55 (not D65 like reviews say).
  • Also, gamma was pretty far off with the "gamma correction" turned off (it was too high, closer to 2). I turned on gamma correction and setting it to 2.4 gave a measured result close to 2.2
  • The default contrast setting of 90 was clipping everything above 234. I dropped it down to 81, and things looked better
  • I'm not sure what Iris Limited is doing, but it's not working as described. I set brightness on a white pattern to around 17 ftL (manual iris is around 15 or so). When I switch to iris limited, the screen gets brighter, and my peak white is a hair over 20 ftL. At any rate, I decided to leave it on Auto Limited for now, as 20 ftL seems like a reasonable brightness for viewing in a dark room. The PJ can get very bright on full power, but my screen is only 90" and the throw distance is maybe 12'
Anyone else have a similar experience as far as calibrating goes? What are you guys using for Reality Creation? I dropped the resolution setting down to 10, but even then, on-screen text has some artifacts around it. In fact, any setting seems to artifact a bit. Turning it totally off does seem more blurry.

Here's a quick shot from my phone...

So at first I noticed a similar issue with D65 and my Grey Screen. I tried D55 and it was more accurate, but even after calibrating it always had a significant reddish hue to the blacks. I ended up going back to the D65 setting after I got my i1Display Pro (replacing my Spyder4), and just cranked the gain sliders around, and I'll be damned if the tint isn't gone from the black side.

However, I do still notice some pretty significant color casting in the attached focus pattern though. The same focus pattern is perfectly greyscale on my 1440p IPS, and has a tiny yellow tinge in my 1080p 39" LCD, but in the PJ it's got noticable color cast all over the fine focus patterns. Is there a way to fix this?

Brightness wise I didn't touch the contrast or brightness settings, and I'm actually using Auto Full with the bulb on Full currently. At about 50 hrs bulb usage, waiting for 100 before leaving Eco\Low on all the time. However, I'll admit I really like how plasma\popping the high brightness looks, especially once calibrated. With the grey screen lowering the brightness a bunch really loses some dynamics on the screen.

So... for RC... I actually am leaving it OFF completely now. As part of my convergence adjustments, I noticed how badly text had some blurry edges around it when you got really close. I finally realized it was from the Reality Creation mode (even at MIN!), but whenever I would turn off RC the focus would drastically get worse.

I then realized I never actually focused the PJ with RC turned off... so I tried focusing it with RC off and suddenly it was only a minor difference between RC (min) and RC (off).

I'm now leaving it off completely. While the sharpening filter does make things look a little more HD, it also:

- brings out visual noise on anything with ANY amount of compression artifacts
- disturbs the focus of scenes without consistent focus across the shot (e.g. shots using wide aperture where you have some depth of field blur, the RC filter artificially sharpens areas that SHOULD be out of focus)
- enhances lines on everything, making things like 'gradient patterns' stick out really strongly

I think I might use it when playing some HD video content (e.g. like a Blu-Ray source), but with anything else I just don't like it (especially when reading text \ web browsing).
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:31 AM
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Thanks! I notice the same thing with RC turned on. I may try keeping it at a very low setting (like 5 or 10) and see how it goes. It definitely oversharpens some things.

I also saw the same thing in a similar sharpness test pattern. The tiny squares with the very fine details would turn reddish. RC seems to affect this. With it on, one square looked red. With it off, that same square looked normal, but another one was tinted. It's probably just one of those things. If it doesn't affect actual content, I'm not too worried about it.

My calibrated 24" Dell monitor is able to display near perfect colors with excellent screen uniformity, so I guess I'm just really picky when it comes to this sort of thing. From what I've seen lately of TVs and projectors, none of them seem capable of displaying a totally uniform gray or white screen.

Last edited by milehighou; 01-14-2016 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
My calibrated 24" Dell monitor is able to display near perfect colors with excellent screen uniformity, so I guess I'm just really picky when it comes to this sort of thing. From what I've seen lately of TVs and projectors, none of them seem capable of displaying a totally uniform gray or white screen.
I'm going through the same thing... We drop a LOT of cash on these setups and sort of hope for perfection, but unfortunately the price gamut between entry ish level and true quality is much larger than in PC displays.

e.g. you can get into a basic IPS monitor for like $200, but the best ones are 1500-2k.

and you can get into a basic quality PJ for like 3k, but the best ones are 15k-20k-100k-200k-1mil, etc :P
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by doubledgedboard View Post
I'm going through the same thing... We drop a LOT of cash on these setups and sort of hope for perfection, but unfortunately the price gamut between entry ish level and true quality is much larger than in PC displays.

e.g. you can get into a basic IPS monitor for like $200, but the best ones are 1500-2k.

and you can get into a basic quality PJ for like 3k, but the best ones are 15k-20k-100k-200k-1mil, etc :P
I hear ya. So far, from what I've seen of actual material on my Sony, I think it'll be fine, but there's always that side of me that wants a perfect test pattern, too. There's no way I'm dropping $20K on a PJ at this point in life, so I probably just need to relax my expectations a bit
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Old 01-14-2016, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by danielrg View Post
I'm pretty sure it is the bulb. A new bulb would be the solution, but only if the bulb is good. There are other possibilities, like problems with the power regulator to the bulb, but much more likely it is the bulb.

Some on other sites have been thinking this specific Sony bulb is prone to this or they produced a few bad batches. I'm going to try running it on high power mode for 40-50 hours and then try eco mode again.

I can use "Auto Limited" iris to dim it if I so desire (if I don't want to get used to the brightness and then be disappointed when I switch back to eco mode) - and so can you. Set the "Manual iris" for the max brightness you want, then change to auto-limited and it will only open to the amount you set in manual iris at max.

The least expensive solution is to try running on high for a few 10s of hours then go back to eco and see how it does. The next least expensive is to try a new bulb.

It's annoying because it could be a power regulation issue that causes the bulb to go bad fast, OR it could be a bad bulb. There's no way to know for sure. If it happens early and often with several bulbs in a row, I'd think there was a problem with the projector. But even then, it could be bad bulb manufacturing.

Not something we should have to live with when paying this much for a projector - BUT I have read this happens even with cinema grade bulbs sometimes... just not right in the first 100 hours like I've read is happening to several owners of the HW55ES/HW40ES.
My auto iris doesn't seem to work this way. If I measure a 100% white pattern and set the iris manually to 16 ftL, as soon as I change to auto limited mode, the screen brightens by maybe 4-5 ftL. It appears that limited is ignoring my manual setting.
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:28 PM
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I read as many reviews of this HW55 that I could find, and if there's one consistent thing, it's that reference mode with temp set to D65 gives very accurate color right out of the box. I did some measurements with an i1D3 and HCFR, and D55 is giving me the lowest delta e's. It's strange that I'm getting a different result than everyone else. I'm wondering if maybe my meter isn't measuring accurately.

I did a quick experiment by loading some test photos on my iPhone (from what I've read, it has pretty accurate colors) and comparing them to the same photos on my screen. To my eyes, the D65 temp seemed to match the iPhone screen a little better than D55.
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milehighou View Post
My auto iris doesn't seem to work this way. If I measure a 100% white pattern and set the iris manually to 16 ftL, as soon as I change to auto limited mode, the screen brightens by maybe 4-5 ftL. It appears that limited is ignoring my manual setting.
I think what I read or was told was wrong. It would be cool if you could set the limit in auto limited... but this is what the manual says:

Auto Limited: A lower brightness than Auto Full, making the image suitable for viewing in a dark room.

So I fear what's going on for you is probably the actual behavior and the review I read was wrong:

From http://www.projectorreviews.com/sony...nema-black-pro

"Now it gets interesting, because there is one other mode. That one is called Auto Limited. This mode limits the maximum the iris is open, to what you set in the Manual area. From there, the iris is dynamic. In other words it works just like normal, except you’ve managed to lower your overall brightness. A very nice touch for those folks with smaller screens or very high gain ones."

Out of curiosity, what's the ftL measurement you get when you turn the iris off or go to Auto Full?

Hardware and System engineer. Enjoy theaters, automation, media and the outdoors.
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