Official JVC DILA-X500R / RS49U / RS4910U Owners Thread - Page 118 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3511 of 3541 Unread 02-25-2015, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
Andreas21 uses a Harmony Ultimate (I have the Ultimate also) and that remote uses myharmony.com So doubtful that it will work for him.
I sent the Hex codes to Logitech today and if all goes well they will be added to the JVC X500/700/900 database in the next few days.

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post #3512 of 3541 Unread 02-25-2015, 02:59 PM
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My guess is the the bluray player would need to have two HDMI out ports to make this happen. HDCP 2.2 isn't backwards compatible with older HDCP versions.
Dylan, you are answering my question with a discussion of potential engineering limitations for first-gen UHD Blu-ray players versus my question of what is allowed according to the spec and perhaps likely to be implemented in a mature product.

I can accept that the first HDCP 2.2-enabled chips for UHD Blu-ray players may not also implement the necessary independent support for HDCP 1.x output thus requiring a second port driven by an HDCP 1.x SoC IP block/chip. However, I have seen no specification requirement to contradict the otherwise natural evolution for more mature HDMI 2.0 chip sets to also implement parallel HDCP 1.x support with the firmware/other selecting the appropriate level of protection.

In either case, I'll stop discussing this in this thread and move over to one of the UHD threads.

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post #3513 of 3541 Unread 02-25-2015, 03:31 PM
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I have watched a full movie today on my new x500 setup, and it's great. But I also did a bit of 3D testing, and I was a bit underwhelmed. I have never seen 3D on a projector before, but compared to my Philips TV and the theater it looked a bit shallow. I would have liked the effect to be a lot more pronounced. Is this a thing with these projectors, or have I done something wrong? I am using original JVC glasses, but the Mitsubishi Xpand RF sender. It works, it's just a bit less 3D than I would have liked. Understated is maybe a correct word...

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post #3514 of 3541 Unread 02-25-2015, 04:30 PM
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On the 14th I upgraded to this from my RS50 which I had for a little over 4 years and wow, this thing is incredible and betters the RS50 in every way. I expected the fade to black and low APL scenes to be better because of the iris but the native black level is clearly superior as is the sharpness and of course brightness. All together these things make the image sort of look like a giant plasma to me, save for bright scenes not having the same amount of depth as plasmas do but their depth is still very nice. The 3D performance is also very impressive.

My X500 came out of the box almost dead bang on for greyscale (only 100 IRE was a touch over 3 with the 6500K preset) and gamma (2.4 preset) and putting the colour profile to custom made at least the 6 standard colours checked be very accurate all with dEs under 2. Very impressive since the RS50 was a pain in the ass to calibrate and wasn't anywhere close to being this accurate out of the box and I never could get it to be this accurate even trying to calibrate it. According to my meter (Eye 1 display pro) I am getting about 14 ft-l off my 106" Carada Brilliant White screen in my close to bat cave room with the X500 in low lamp and the iris at -11. The front of my room is covered in black velvet and the back half will soon be. Right now it is a sort of darker shade of grey.

Shading/colour uniformity is great and is easily the best I have ever had in a 3 chip projector which this is now my 8th or 9th I have had.

The dynamic iris works well and other than on credits and fade to blacks (where I can see it close down once the screen first goes black) I have only seen it work in real scenes maybe 3 times out of about a dozen movies. No doubt starting with the iris at the -11 setting helps this out.

Very happy with this upgrade and it is a bigger upgrade than I was expecting. I mainly got it for the dynamic iris and the added brightness and supposed superior bulb stability so I was very pleased to see how it improved on everything from the RS50. If the bulb truly does age at a more consistent level and the light loss after 400-500 hours isn't all that much then I will be very very happy.

The icing on this sweet cake is the fact I got it for a great price that I wouldn't be surprised converts to the lowest in North America from a local dealer (I'm in Canada) and it came with a spare bulb, 2 pairs of the JVC glasses and the JVC emitter. I debated getting the X700 (after deciding the Epson laser LS10000 didn't make much sense to get) but figured this guy for the price made more sense, especially since I sort of looked at it as something I could upgrade from in a year's time depending on what we get at CEDIA and how the 4k drama plays out. Given the price I paid for the package, I figure I could probably sell it in a year and take a minimal hit.

Kudos to JVC. I will say that the black level being so good has me itching for an even deeper black.
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post #3515 of 3541 Unread 02-25-2015, 05:10 PM
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Is anyone else having difficulty with their RS4910 having issues switching from a blu ray players home menu @60p and a blu rays 24p? I never had an issue until I reconfigured my oppo 103D to use split A/v since my AVR is not able to pass 3d and I wanted to try 3d

I have emailed oppo but they have no answer. I have also posted this in the oppo and HDMI threads since it is a multifaceted issues that involves all three. I don't mean to cross post this to be annoying, just not sure what component is causing the issue or what I can do to remedy it.

Here is what I have posted:

I am having trouble with my oppo 103D and JVC 4910 handshaking when switching from the home menu @60p to a blu ray @24p. It does not happen all the time but maybe 50% of the time I get a blank screen with a multicolored line. If I switch the matrix switch to reverse the input the JVC "sees" and then switch back it will usually fix itself.

The issue began when I changed the wiring to utilize split AV mode so I can pass 3D to the JVC since my AVR does not support 3D. Note that I also have to force 24p and 3D in the oppo in order to get it to work at all or it will not see a 3D device and blu rays will play at 60p.

I suspect the matrix switch may be the issue, but the PS3 also connected to that switch has no issues negotiated wither 24p or 3D...but doing that means I lose losses and darbee.

I have attached a wiring diagram showing the old and new signal path. Note that the TV in the chain is non 3d and does not to 24p. This has never presented a problem as I just ensure that the TV is "seeing" the PS3 when the oppo is in use and this gets prevents the oppo from seeing both the tv and the PJ and picking the lowest common denominator. It's always worked fine through 3 projectors. As I said, the only change is using the 2 hdmi outputs to send video to the switch and audio to the AVR.

I am aware HDMI uses the lowest common denominator, but like I mentioned, I've used this exact setup (just with a single HDMI out from the oppo to the AVR) with a non 3D non 24P tv and was always able to get the PJ to get 24p with no issues and the PS3 can auto negotiate 3D through the switch ignoring the TV since the TV is set to "see" a different input" The only change I made was the split wiring from the Oppo. Now I have to force 24p and 3D to get the PJ to see either and half the time it gets stuck with no picture or sound going from the home menu @60p to the movie @24p. Forcing a re-handshake fixes this.

I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions? Has anyone heard of redmere cables actually causing HDMI handshake issues? I was thinking maybe a HDMI Detective between the JVC and the matrix switch to help with handshaking and EDID?
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post #3516 of 3541 Unread 02-25-2015, 05:29 PM
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post #3517 of 3541 Unread 02-26-2015, 03:55 PM
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I just wanted to update this thread with the resolution to my random locking issues that occurred on start up and resolution changes with my 4910. If you're interested in the repair process, check out my repair post. Mendtronix Repair/Parts/Lamps Center-Reviews and Feedback
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post #3518 of 3541 Unread 02-26-2015, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Is anyone else having difficulty with their RS4910 having issues switching from a blu ray players home menu @60p and a blu rays 24p? I never had an issue until I reconfigured my oppo 103D to use split A/v since my AVR is not able to pass 3d and I wanted to try 3d

I have emailed oppo but they have no answer. I have also posted this in the oppo and HDMI threads since it is a multifaceted issues that involves all three. I don't mean to cross post this to be annoying, just not sure what component is causing the issue or what I can do to remedy it.

Here is what I have posted:

I am having trouble with my oppo 103D and JVC 4910 handshaking when switching from the home menu @60p to a blu ray @24p. It does not happen all the time but maybe 50% of the time I get a blank screen with a multicolored line. If I switch the matrix switch to reverse the input the JVC "sees" and then switch back it will usually fix itself.

The issue began when I changed the wiring to utilize split AV mode so I can pass 3D to the JVC since my AVR does not support 3D. Note that I also have to force 24p and 3D in the oppo in order to get it to work at all or it will not see a 3D device and blu rays will play at 60p.

I suspect the matrix switch may be the issue, but the PS3 also connected to that switch has no issues negotiated wither 24p or 3D...but doing that means I lose losses and darbee.

I have attached a wiring diagram showing the old and new signal path. Note that the TV in the chain is non 3d and does not to 24p. This has never presented a problem as I just ensure that the TV is "seeing" the PS3 when the oppo is in use and this gets prevents the oppo from seeing both the tv and the PJ and picking the lowest common denominator. It's always worked fine through 3 projectors. As I said, the only change is using the 2 hdmi outputs to send video to the switch and audio to the AVR.

I am aware HDMI uses the lowest common denominator, but like I mentioned, I've used this exact setup (just with a single HDMI out from the oppo to the AVR) with a non 3D non 24P tv and was always able to get the PJ to get 24p with no issues and the PS3 can auto negotiate 3D through the switch ignoring the TV since the TV is set to "see" a different input" The only change I made was the split wiring from the Oppo. Now I have to force 24p and 3D to get the PJ to see either and half the time it gets stuck with no picture or sound going from the home menu @60p to the movie @24p. Forcing a re-handshake fixes this.

I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions? Has anyone heard of redmere cables actually causing HDMI handshake issues? I was thinking maybe a HDMI Detective between the JVC and the matrix switch to help with handshaking and EDID?
I've had problems with HDMI matrix switchers / splitters with projectors other than the JVC's myself, so unfortunately I'd say this is more an HDMI problem than a JVC problem. I gave up and just have one projector plugged into the system at a time now. But an HDMI Detective or other powered splitter may work - maybe someone that's actually used one will chime in.

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post #3519 of 3541 Unread 02-27-2015, 05:57 AM
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I've had problems with HDMI matrix switchers / splitters with projectors other than the JVC's myself, so unfortunately I'd say this is more an HDMI problem than a JVC problem. I gave up and just have one projector plugged into the system at a time now. But an HDMI Detective or other powered splitter may work - maybe someone that's actually used one will chime in.
I'm sure it's not the JVC. The JVC is more touchy than some with HDMI issues, but this is not a issue of the JVC having a bad port or something. What's odd to me is that I never had a problem with the switch until I changed the wiring to use split a/v mode from the oppo. One thing that has helped so far is to swap out the redmere interconnects for passive cables. That has cut down on the 24fps/60fps issues significantly and made it so that if it does get hung up simply hitting that activity again on the harmony forces a quick handshake and it's good. I went with redmere's to take pressure off the HDMI ports since it is a tight fit for the oppo. I found Mediabridge makes a thinner more flexible cable that is passive. 6ft worked better than 3ft as well. I still use a 40ft redmere to the PJ. I swear there is something about the active cables that seems to cause the display to still see something connected to it and on even when it's not, causing sync issues.

Maybe a better switch would work....but then we're talking over $200. I'm thinking if i've improved the percent of times it occurs from 50% down to maybe 10% with an easy fix, i'll live with it for now. Just bothers me it never had issues and I never had to set the oppo to force 24p until I split the audio and video using the 2 hdmi outpost on the oppo.

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post #3520 of 3541 Unread 02-27-2015, 07:41 AM
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I have HDMI problems with my Yamaha 3070 receiver and the JVC. When run through the Yamaha the Panasonic Blu-ray says that no 3D compatible display device is found. I do not have the problem when I run the same way to my Philips TV. Can that be a general HDMI problem as well?

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post #3521 of 3541 Unread 02-27-2015, 08:05 AM
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I have HDMI problems with my Yamaha 3070 receiver and the JVC. When run through the Yamaha the Panasonic Blu-ray says that no 3D compatible display device is found. I do not have the problem when I run the same way to my Philips TV. Can that be a general HDMI problem as well?
Sure....you name it and HDMI can be to blame for it! If you are able to set 3D to force on your BD player, does it pass 3D to the JVC? It sounds like the EDID information is getting dropped. That's what I believe is happening to me as well because I need to tell the oppo to force 24p and 3D. Never needed to do that using a single HDMI out from the oppo going to an AVR and then to a switcher. HDMI is so unpredictable sometimes and sometimes a different cable or different length cable can change everything.
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post #3522 of 3541 Unread 02-27-2015, 08:08 AM
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Nope, there is no way to force 3D, at least I haven't found it. And the cable length could be the answer, but I doubt it. I have managed to get 3D from the Yamaha with a half bad cable that made specle noise. Oh, come to think of it when the JVC was switching to 3D, for a few seconds I saw something that looked very much like an old, analogue TV without a signal. If that's a clue to anything. But when it synced, I got 3D.

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post #3523 of 3541 Unread 02-27-2015, 08:19 AM
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Nope, there is no way to force 3D, at least I haven't found it. And the cable length could be the answer, but I doubt it. I have managed to get 3D from the Yamaha with a half bad cable that made specle noise. Oh, come to think of it when the JVC was switching to 3D, for a few seconds I saw something that looked very much like an old, analogue TV without a signal. If that's a clue to anything. But when it synced, I got 3D.
Speckles and snow are all HDMI handshake problems. I feel your pain, I've been going through trial and error all week. Funny thing is I actually had a heavy gauge cable that seemed to work flawlessly, but I am afraid it will put too much strain on the ports. Thats what prompted me to ditch the redmere cables and go with all passives. Those aren't working as well as that one cable...but better than the redeemers....go figure!
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post #3524 of 3541 Unread 02-27-2015, 09:57 AM
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post #3525 of 3541 Unread 02-27-2015, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mastiff View Post
I have watched a full movie today on my new x500 setup, and it's great. But I also did a bit of 3D testing, and I was a bit underwhelmed. I have never seen 3D on a projector before, but compared to my Philips TV and the theater it looked a bit shallow. I would have liked the effect to be a lot more pronounced. Is this a thing with these projectors, or have I done something wrong? I am using original JVC glasses, but the Mitsubishi Xpand RF sender. It works, it's just a bit less 3D than I would have liked. Understated is maybe a correct word...
The first time you use 3D it will enable CMD. After some experimenting I noticed that CMD does take away some of the 3D effect. Best to turn it off.

Also mess with the Parallax setting. Once things are dialed in, it's very impressive. Friends who have gone to commercial theaters to see 3D movies say my setup is 100x better, with a much brighter picture and no eye strain or headaches. I'm using the Mitsubishi Xpand glasses and my screen retains a small amount of polarization.
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post #3526 of 3541 Unread 02-28-2015, 06:38 AM
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The first time you use 3D it will enable CMD. After some experimenting I noticed that CMD does take away some of the 3D effect. Best to turn it off.

Also mess with the Parallax setting. Once things are dialed in, it's very impressive. Friends who have gone to commercial theaters to see 3D movies say my setup is 100x better, with a much brighter picture and no eye strain or headaches. I'm using the Mitsubishi Xpand glasses and my screen retains a small amount of polarization.
Well timed post. I picked up some Mitsubishi Xpand glasses and tested them last night. My 3D nomenclature is basic so bare with me. What is the best way to dial in the Parellax setting? What I noticed is some was ghosting deep in the depth of view so I would pause the image and adjust perfectly then the forefront image would ghost to the point of being distracting. I danced all night trying to dial in a happy medium. At times the 3D image looked awesome "Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs 2". Any hints on dialing the 3D in? I know JVC isn't known for the best implementation of 3D. Or is this the cheaper Mitsubishi Xpand 105BT glasses to blame? I'm running a 4910 on Dalight high-power screen.

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post #3527 of 3541 Unread 02-28-2015, 07:09 AM
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Possible Adjustments

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastiff View Post
I have watched a full movie today on my new x500 setup, and it's great. But I also did a bit of 3D testing, and I was a bit underwhelmed. I have never seen 3D on a projector before, but compared to my Philips TV and the theater it looked a bit shallow. I would have liked the effect to be a lot more pronounced. Is this a thing with these projectors, or have I done something wrong? I am using original JVC glasses, but the Mitsubishi Xpand RF sender. It works, it's just a bit less 3D than I would have liked. Understated is maybe a correct word...
I find that increasing the parallax setting seems to tame the 3D effect. Thus, at the preset zero setting, I get a fairly strong 3D effect (depending on the movie being watched as some films appear to have inherently more depth than others). As I raise the parallax level, I tend to perceive a reduced 3D depth effect....hence the image looks a bit more 2D as the parallax is increased within the pj. I also get increased brightness by increasing the crosstalk setting. I have not really researched what either setting is doing within the pj....so I couldn't give you a more precise, scientific explanation of what occurs when using these settings....my suggestions are only from personal experience watching about ten 3D movies with this pj. Good luck
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Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
I've had problems with HDMI matrix switchers / splitters with projectors other than the JVC's myself, so unfortunately I'd say this is more an HDMI problem than a JVC problem. I gave up and just have one projector plugged into the system at a time now. But an HDMI Detective or other powered splitter may work - maybe someone that's actually used one will chime in.

Try HDMI port 2 on the JVC if you have not doe so already. I have had similar issues and using port 2 has improved the HDMI handshake. You might also want to try to turn off quick start on the Oppo. I have two projectors and the JVC has some issues with its ability to do the handshake. I was having similar issues using the 103D and other sources and switching to port 2 has really helped. I would also suggest that the splitter is probably one of the causes of the problem as others have stated. You might also want to try an HDMI extender.
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post #3529 of 3541 Unread Yesterday, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Speckles and snow are all HDMI handshake problems. I feel your pain, I've been going through trial and error all week. Funny thing is I actually had a heavy gauge cable that seemed to work flawlessly, but I am afraid it will put too much strain on the ports. Thats what prompted me to ditch the redmere cables and go with all passives. Those aren't working as well as that one cable...but better than the redeemers....go figure!
Thanks, but I didn't think those speckles were handshake, I thought it was signal strength. Isn't handshake sort of "either it works, or it doesn't"? Oh, and I finally found out why I couldn't get 3D from the receiver. It was only my own stupidty. The cable was about six feet short, three in the receiver end and three in the projector end. In one end I used a passive extender, which had no problems. But in my "great wisdom" I used an active extender in the other end that of course was HDMI 1.1 only, so no 3D!

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The first time you use 3D it will enable CMD. After some experimenting I noticed that CMD does take away some of the 3D effect. Best to turn it off.

Also mess with the Parallax setting. Once things are dialed in, it's very impressive. Friends who have gone to commercial theaters to see 3D movies say my setup is 100x better, with a much brighter picture and no eye strain or headaches. I'm using the Mitsubishi Xpand glasses and my screen retains a small amount of polarization.
Thanks, but the Clear Motion Drive wasn't active, I guess my calibration guy turned that off. But at least I know that I will be able to get it good with a bit of work and experimenting.

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Originally Posted by brahman12 View Post
I find that increasing the parallax setting seems to tame the 3D effect. Thus, at the preset zero setting, I get a fairly strong 3D effect (depending on the movie being watched as some films appear to have inherently more depth than others). As I raise the parallax level, I tend to perceive a reduced 3D depth effect....hence the image looks a bit more 2D as the parallax is increased within the pj. I also get increased brightness by increasing the crosstalk setting. I have not really researched what either setting is doing within the pj....so I couldn't give you a more precise, scientific explanation of what occurs when using these settings....my suggestions are only from personal experience watching about ten 3D movies with this pj. Good luck
Thanks! I did see that, I turned down the parallax a lot (in daylight, so the effect was partly spoiled anyway) but I could see that it did help a bit. So I guess I will experiment more with both parallax and light level when I have some free time when it's dark.

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Question Panamorph users

For those that are using a Panamorph lens or anyone who may know of options, what are RS49 owners using to mount the lens and transport? I currently have the UH480 and manual sled mounted on my RS20 using the steel AK8J plate.
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post #3531 of 3541 Unread Yesterday, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZ View Post
For those that are using a Panamorph lens or anyone who may know of options, what are RS49 owners using to mount the lens and transport? I currently have the UH480 and manual sled mounted on my RS20 using the steel AK8J plate.
If you have the AK8J-3D, then yes it will fit the 4910. If your plate was one of the older ones, for earlier JVC projectors, then it would be AK8Pro-L. Since you said AK8J, I am assuming you have the plate that works for both older and newer JVC projectors.

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post #3532 of 3541 Unread Yesterday, 10:21 AM
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Is there anyone in here that considers the image of the Sony 55es superior to the JVC X500?

James Reid:D
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post #3533 of 3541 Unread Yesterday, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
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Is there anyone in here that considers the image of the Sony 55es superior to the JVC X500?
No, and I own both the HW55 and X500. The only thing the HW55 is better at is inputlag and it has nothing to do with the image...

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post #3534 of 3541 Unread Yesterday, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Andreas21 View Post
No, and I own both the HW55 and X500. The only thing the HW55 is better at is inputlag and it has nothing to do with the image...
Thanks, someone made a claim that many find the image superior on the Sony. Since I only have the JVC I wanted some input. In fact i was under the impression that the X500 can hold it own with the 4k Sony's. In some areas anyway.

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After i used an Audioquest Cinnamon 40ft cable i had some problems with 4K 50/60p ... now i ordered the Monoprice Cabernet SLIM Redmere cable in 40ft and handshake is much faster and no problems on the picture.
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Do most of you use or disable the Dynamic Iris for 3D?
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post #3537 of 3541 Unread Today, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Do most of you use or disable the Dynamic Iris for 3D?
I doubt most people do. I know I don't when I enable 3D. Why are you asking?

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Quote:
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I doubt most people do. I know I don't when I enable 3D. Why are you asking?
Because maximizing light output is key for 3D. While using the DI in 3D does increase contrast, it also makes dark scenes darker.

Are you saying you doubt they use it or doubt they disable it?

I have played with it both ways and since i have just started using 3D I was curious if people disable the DI for 3D.

(FWIW, my DI needs to be repaired as it gets stuck sometimes, so what I am seeing may not be the best gauge either)

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post #3539 of 3541 Unread Today, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Because maximizing light output is key for 3D. While using the DI in 3D does increase contrast, it also makes dark scenes darker.

Are you saying you doubt they use it or doubt they disable it?

I have played with it both ways and since i have just started using 3D I was curious if people disable the DI for 3D.

(FWIW, my DI needs to be repaired as it gets stuck sometimes, so what I am seeing may not be the best gauge either)
Dynamic gamma is enabled when the dynamic iris is on and should minimize brightness compression as much as possible. It isn't like using the iris in manual mode.

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post #3540 of 3541 Unread Today, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
Dynamic gamma is enabled when the dynamic iris is on and should minimize brightness compression as much as possible. It isn't like using the iris in manual mode.
I could be wrong on this, but dynamic gamma should help prevent crushing of detail, but dark scenes will still be overall darker with iris set to Auto than just full open. In some 3D movies like guardians of the galaxy I have felt there is still a benefit to the DI, especially if the entire movie isn't on the darker side. On films like Desolation of Smaug, which is pretty dark all the way through, I preferred leaving it off.
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