Official JVC DILA-X500R / RS49U / RS4910U Owners Thread - Page 61 - AVS Forum
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post #1801 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
Is it just me, or is this whole calibration discussion way beyond most people's realm of understanding?
Probably, but I will say this: If you are serious about displays and learning about video NOTHING will increase that knowledge more than learning and understanding calibration. It gets into the nuts and bolts of how and why your display looks the way it does. It is actually VERY easy to learn if you set your mind to it and will go a LONG way in giving you the tools and control of your system to make it look its best.

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post #1802 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
I will be joining the 4910 club Monday it looks like!

From what I have gleaned from these pages, this is what I am planning to use as my baseline settings before I calibrate.

User1
Standard color space
Custom Gamma....either 2.3 or 2.4. I'll measure both and see which will be easiest to get to 2.3 with a bump to 2.2 down low with the very basic bright and dark gamma controls
Custom CMS, to be calibrated
Color/tint 0

Hdmi mode....not sure. Always used enhanced on my other JVC's. Seems like many are using Superwhite or standard. I've read Kris Deering say that anything other standard makes calibration trickier. I've been fine with enhanced, but if its better to use something else, I'm open to hear others experiences

Brightness/contrast. This one seems different on the 4910. On my other JVC's in enhanced mode, brightness was -7 contrast +14. That allowed bar 17 to be just visible and clipped whites at about 240. Seems this year it is different, depending on HDMI mode. What have others found.

I'll set the iris for the peak I want and probably use AUTO2 (off when calibrating)

Eshift I like on, Have read different things about the MOPC controls. Either they do nothing, or they are very fine controls....we'll see. I have a darbee, so I don't need the enhancement. I just like the smoother look of eshift.

I will probably do a rough calibration right away, at least get a decent grayscale and gamma or it will bug me.

Fingers crossed for a good sample!

Open to any suggestions or thoughts on my starting points. I'll be using calman 4.x and an i1pro, but will have version 5 and a c6/i1pro combo by the time I do a more thorough calibration after break in.
If you are not using an external calibration box (Lumagen/eeColor) than I woudl suggest you DON'T touch the CMS in the JVC. OOTB the JVC should be fine and trying to adjust the colorimetry using the internal CMS will probably do more harm than good. Also, use Standard or Super White for HDMI. Just don't raise brightness more than 1 or touch contrast. Otherwise your grayscale/gamma goes wonky. So essentially chose your white clip point of either 235 or 255 and leave it be. Ultimately from what I've seen from several of this year's models you only need to touch up the grayscale OOTB and you're good to go. It won't be perfect, but it will be good enough that you shouldn't have to fuss with it, especially since fussing with it will probably result in a worse looking picture. Maybe Spectracal will figure out some new stuff with their auto cal and provide a valuable tool for doing the CMS, but OOTB the colorimetry of this years models is already fantastic. If you REALLY want it to be near perfect, invest in an outboard CMS like a Lumagen or a eeColor box.
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post #1803 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
If you are not using an external calibration box (Lumagen/eeColor) than I woudl suggest you DON'T touch the CMS in the JVC. OOTB the JVC should be fine and trying to adjust the colorimetry using the internal CMS will probably do more harm than good. Also, use Standard or Super White for HDMI. Just don't raise brightness more than 1 or touch contrast. Otherwise your grayscale/gamma goes wonky. So essentially chose your white clip point of either 235 or 255 and leave it be. Ultimately from what I've seen from several of this year's models you only need to touch up the grayscale OOTB and you're good to go. It won't be perfect, but it will be good enough that you shouldn't have to fuss with it, especially since fussing with it will probably result in a worse looking picture. Maybe Spectracal will figure out some new stuff with their auto cal and provide a valuable tool for doing the CMS, but OOTB the colorimetry of this years models is already fantastic. If you REALLY want it to be near perfect, invest in an outboard CMS like a Lumagen or a eeColor box.
Kris,

Thank you for your help! You certainly have a lot of insight on this topic and I respect your opinion. I have these questions, and I am betting they might help others too. Sorry for the list, but I thought organizing it this way would be easier than a run on paragraph.

1) What picture/color mode would you recommend then? user1 with standard color space? or something else?

2) I had read the same about the CMS, but the "Secrets of Hifi" review noted that simply turning the CMS to "ON" and not adjusting anything actually improved things. Have you found that to be true?

3) Is the 4910 CMS worse than the 4810. I was able to on the 4810 to minimize luminance and hue errors fairly well...is this not the case wit the 4910?

4) With leaving contrast alone, as you stated, you clip at 235 or 255....wouldn't 235 be the better choice for better light output. 255 seems like a lot of wasted light!

5) If I run with HDMI standard, can i still leave my player (PS3) set to superwhite on? my thinking is it shouldn't matter one way other the other as long as the player is not remapping values. clipping is clipping and what the player outputs is irrelevant. correct?

6) What have you found with gamma? If I want to aim for 2.3 and then 2.2 at 5-10% do the dark and bright gamma controls help at all? I'm used the the 11 point system where I could tweak more easily.

7) You said don't raise brightness above 1. Is it best to leave it at 0, or does that clip and 1 is actually correct?

Thanks in advance...your help might save me a lot of trial and error calibrating!
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post #1804 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by trans_lux View Post
Manni as always thanks for the insight and info.

When I look at my 3-chip DLP/Lumagen that was calibrated by Craig Rounds the JVC looks under-saturated.
I really noticed it on the ultimate video torture test Penny Dreadful.
Most of the show is almost devoid of any color. Tons of low to no light scenes with excellent blacks.
Though the last two episodes had terrible compression artifacts on DTV-but I digress.
On the JVC a couple scenes almost look like grayscale. On the DLP there is certainly hints of color.

I guess it could just be the difference between DILA and DLP??

Below are my color checker results.

Hmmm, are you only getting 13.5 fl? I assume you are running it in low lamp mode. Do you have the iris fairly closed. What screen size and gain do you have? What is your throw distance?
_____
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post #1805 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 09:11 AM
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1. I've used User 1/Standard. But I would measure the green point of each preset and see which one comes the closest with your particular projector. It should only take a few minutes to do with Calman.

2. Haven't tried the CMS on vs off. Again, just measure it both ways and see which ones comes the closest.

3. The problem with the CMS is what it does inside the triangle. It is hard to find a good compromise. But again, OOTB it is already so close that it doesn't really need much tweaking unless you are just a number junky and need to know for sure for your OCD (I'm guilty as charged BTW).

4. Clipping is always a personal choice. Some say there is some material out there that doesn't clip at 235 and extends up. I've yet to find any personally. Some don't like clipping at 235 because it causes primary colors to clip even before that, which is probably a stronger argument. I look at it more for light output and contrast. Clipping at 235 gives you more light output but if you don't need it and can get your desired peak white with it set to 255, I'd go with that.

5. Not sure on this one, I don't have a PS3. But as long as it is not remapping white in that mode, you should be fine. Clipping anywhere from 235 to 255 is a personal choice and as long as nothing is remapping the values it shouldn't matter.

6. The gamma tracking seems to be largely accurate. I shoot for 1886 personally. But the JVC presets are pretty close. Like the CMS, just measure the different modes and see what you end up with. With Calman doing series measurements is so easy and quick it only makes sense to experiment with the presets and see which one fits the bill. I use a Lumagen in my setup so I've done it different than most would and it would take a lot of writing to explain my process.

7. Raising brightness to 1 and the dark level up a few clicks in the gamma menu (for white) helps resolve digital 18 with no issues. Resolving digital 17 wont' happen without raising your black floor quite a bit. So you either hurt contrast for that one digital value or you just live with it.
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post #1806 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post
Hmmm, are you only getting 13.5 fl? I assume you are running it in low lamp mode. Do you have the iris fairly closed. What screen size and gain do you have? What is your throw distance?
_____
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He's said before he uses a pretty huge screen (hence the need for the Titan). I believe he's also mentioned that he needs to make the JVC image smaller than his screen to get the light output he wants from it. I may even been an acoustically transparent screen, which makes it even harder to light up.

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post #1807 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
1. I've used User 1/Standard. But I would measure the green point of each preset and see which one comes the closest with your particular projector. It should only take a few minutes to do with Calman.

2. Haven't tried the CMS on vs off. Again, just measure it both ways and see which ones comes the closest.

3. The problem with the CMS is what it does inside the triangle. It is hard to find a good compromise. But again, OOTB it is already so close that it doesn't really need much tweaking unless you are just a number junky and need to know for sure for your OCD (I'm guilty as charged BTW).

4. Clipping is always a personal choice. Some say there is some material out there that doesn't clip at 235 and extends up. I've yet to find any personally. Some don't like clipping at 235 because it causes primary colors to clip even before that, which is probably a stronger argument. I look at it more for light output and contrast. Clipping at 235 gives you more light output but if you don't need it and can get your desired peak white with it set to 255, I'd go with that.

5. Not sure on this one, I don't have a PS3. But as long as it is not remapping white in that mode, you should be fine. Clipping anywhere from 235 to 255 is a personal choice and as long as nothing is remapping the values it shouldn't matter.

6. The gamma tracking seems to be largely accurate. I shoot for 1886 personally. But the JVC presets are pretty close. Like the CMS, just measure the different modes and see what you end up with. With Calman doing series measurements is so easy and quick it only makes sense to experiment with the presets and see which one fits the bill. I use a Lumagen in my setup so I've done it different than most would and it would take a lot of writing to explain my process.

7. Raising brightness to 1 and the dark level up a few clicks in the gamma menu (for white) helps resolve digital 18 with no issues. Resolving digital 17 wont' happen without raising your black floor quite a bit. So you either hurt contrast for that one digital value or you just live with it.

Thanks Kris! This is very helpful. From what you describe, it does seem like there is some difference with this years models. I was always able to get 17 to resolve without any apparent raise in black floor....as far as I could tell anyway. I had always used extended, so this will be different. But it sounds like less work with just a bit of greyscale and gamma work. I'm a tweaker and love getting into it with calibration, so I'll probably measure the CMS modes and see what affect changes make at some point just as a learning experience. I suspect I'll find that messing with them will negatively affect the tracking.

Can't wait to get a C6...will make gamma runs a lot faster and more accurate than my i1pro!

I'd love to get an external processor someday. Right now the 4910 and calibration gear upgrade is setting my back too much as it is. Plus I'd want one that is 4K ready (whatever that ends up meaning)
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post #1808 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 10:07 AM
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You can get digital 17 with the enhanced mode, but because this requires you to make pretty massive changes to the brightness and contrast settings, it is really hard to get a linear grayscale/gamma, especially with this year's models. Good luck!!

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post #1809 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
You can get digital 17 with the enhanced mode, but because this requires you to make pretty massive changes to the brightness and contrast settings, it is really hard to get a linear grayscale/gamma, especially with this year's models. Good luck!!
Ah, well maybe that is why my previous calibrations were more laborious....this years models being even harder. The trade off is easier to calibrate and get a linear response vs. give up digital 17. And you recommend giving up 17 as the tradeoff because linearity elsewhere is of more importance.
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post #1810 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Ah, well maybe that is why my previous calibrations were more laborious....this years models being even harder. The trade off is easier to calibrate and get a linear response vs. give up digital 17. And you recommend giving up 17 as the tradeoff because linearity elsewhere is of more importance.
Essentially yes. We've seen this before (I remember this being a problem with the last few Marantz projectors as well). Again, you can easily see to digital 18, but trying to get 17 is either using Enhanced and having issues with gamma or raising brightness higher and sacrificing contrast.

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post #1811 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
Essentially yes. We've seen this before (I remember this being a problem with the last few Marantz projectors as well). Again, you can easily see to digital 18, but trying to get 17 is either using Enhanced and having issues with gamma or raising brightness higher and sacrificing contrast.
So does raising brightness to +1 raise the black floor or cause issues? If you don't raise it to +1 is 18 clipped?
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post #1812 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 10:46 AM
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http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/proje...the-bench.html

This might be useful info on calibrating the 4910.
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post #1813 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 10:48 AM
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Raising brightness to 1 helps with 18 but doesn't raise the black floor.

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post #1814 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
If both systems look amazing, just relax, sit back and enjoy
Excellent advice my friend!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
Guess I should have read farther into the thread, in your calman reports the JVC is at about 13 fL and your Sim2 is at 26 fL. So yeah, color comparisons are competely and utterly devoid at that point.
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Hmmm, are you only getting 13.5 fl? I assume you are running it in low lamp mode. Do you have the iris fairly closed. What screen size and gain do you have? What is your throw distance?
_____
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To add more variables to the equation the systems are in different rooms with different screens.
Titan is on a 15' wide scope with a early generation Screen Research woven material @ roughly .8 gain. I'm using lens memory so there is no anamorphic lens. 26flt is using one lamp at a throw of around 30ft.

The JVC is on 10' diag 16:9 1st gen non-perforated Stewart Studiotek 130 @ a gain of roughly 1.3. I'm on low lamp with the iris wide open.
Throw is around 25' and it's mounted high on the ceiling. I'm using about 40%'of the vertical shift.
I proabaly could get maybe another 1ftl with the contrast back at zero but having the red discoloration on the white clipping pattern kicks my OCD into high gear.
I do plan on experimenting with the contrast and brightness settings some more. I'll report back anything interesting.
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post #1815 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 03:59 PM
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It doesn't matter that they are in different rooms or screens. Ultimately it comes down to comparing the colors you're seeing for what your talking about. And in this case you have a projector that has a white level that is twice as high. Colors will look significantly different in this situation.
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post #1816 of 2220 Old 07-03-2014, 11:21 PM
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Using my i1 display pro and Calman5 I measured the lumen output of my jvc 4910 today for the first time. I am only getting a maximum of 10 fl in low lamp mode which seems quite low. The projector is ceiling mounted and the lens is aimed a little below the top of the 123" 16:9 stewart firehawk g3 screen. The throw distance is just under 16 feet and the bulb has 572 hours on it. Anyone know why the fl are so low? I am wondering if I have a bad bulb from the factory. Any other possibilities or suggestions? The iris is in manual and fully open. I would like to get the fl higher before calibrating with calman5 and a lumagEn radiance mini-3D. Thanks for your help guys.
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post #1817 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by davidibecker View Post
Using my i1 display pro and Calman5 I measured the lumen output of my jvc 4910 today for the first time. I am only getting a maximum of 10 fl in low lamp mode which seems quite low. The projector is ceiling mounted and the lens is aimed a little below the top of the 123" 16:9 stewart firehawk g3 screen. The throw distance is just under 16 feet and the bulb has 572 hours on it. Anyone know why the fl are so low? I am wondering if I have a bad bulb from the factory. Any other possibilities or suggestions? The iris is in manual and fully open. I would like to get the fl higher before calibrating with calman5 and a lumagEn radiance mini-3D. Thanks for your help guys.
My 1st guess is that's about right for your screen surface. IMHO Firehawk is not a good match for your projector unless you have ambient light to contend with.

I'm sure you know this but lets cover the basics:
-lens is parallel with the screen. An easy way to know if your close is use the JVC lens pattern and make sure there is no keystone and you image is square/even all the way around.

-not reading the shadow of the meter/tripod. The ext. from my C6 really helps in this regard.

-The i1Display Pro has a very narrow sweet spot. It takes me a good 20 min to get my meter in the right position. I'm somewhere around 3ft from the surface of the screen to the face of the meter.

-measure as close to the center of the screen as possible

-what are using for your Input Level on the JVC? I would start with Standard

-set all the various modes to user-1 and that all settings are null

-what gamma correction are you using?

-turn off all enhancements MPC, Clear Motion

-use the patterns from the Lumagen for now

Anything else guys that i missed?

Please report back if any of this makes a difference.

Last edited by trans_lux; 07-04-2014 at 04:45 AM.
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post #1818 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 08:19 AM
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Hard to say what the issue is. The FH is a 1.3 gain screen and I would expect about 14ish fL with that screen size and those hours. Without knowing all the settings and seeing how your measuring it would be hard to guess what the issue is. I would definitely try the suggestions Translux listed.
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post #1819 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 08:47 AM
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Thanks for the replies so far. I have the firehawk due to room colors more than to deal with ambient light. I have used some room treatments since purchasing the screen a couple of projectors ago and may no longer need a firehawk. Back half of ceiling is still white but front half is black flocking material and front 2/3rds of room is black velvet on walls. What screen would you suggest to be a better match at 120-123" 16:9 for this projector? Unfortunately the projector needs to remain mounted where it is (ceiling mounted with lense aimed at top center of screen) but seating position isn't an issue as it is watched 99.99% of the time by two people at center of screen directly below projector with eyes at mid screen height.

Lense is parallel, tried reading from 1.5 feet - 2.5 feet from screen for at least 35-40 minutes, max fl was 10.4, measured fairly close to center of screen, used standard input for hdmi, tried normal and custom gamma corrections and user profile 1 with settings reset as well as cinema and natural, and turned off all enhancements as well. I can try again with meter slightly further back if you think that could cause the difference but it appeared 2' was getting a slightly higher fl reading than 2.5' (read .1-.2 fl). I don't have an issue buying a new screen if there is one you think would match my room conditions and projector much better. Again, thanks for all your help and suggestions.
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lag

after months and months of work, the theater in the basement is finally set up as of 1am this morning. Picture is incredible! However... I have an issue. There is a lag between the picture and the sound. I have my BR player hooked to my pioneer sc-71 receiver and then to the PJ. They are all high quality hdmi redmere hdmi cables. How do I fix this? TY in advance!
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post #1821 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidibecker View Post
Thanks for the replies so far. I have the firehawk due to room colors more than to deal with ambient light. I have used some room treatments since purchasing the screen a couple of projectors ago and may no longer need a firehawk. Back half of ceiling is still white but front half is black flocking material and front 2/3rds of room is black velvet on walls. What screen would you suggest to be a better match at 120-123" 16:9 for this projector? Unfortunately the projector needs to remain mounted where it is (ceiling mounted with lense aimed at top center of screen) but seating position isn't an issue as it is watched 99.99% of the time by two people at center of screen directly below projector with eyes at mid screen height.

Lense is parallel, tried reading from 1.5 feet - 2.5 feet from screen for at least 35-40 minutes, max fl was 10.4, measured fairly close to center of screen, used standard input for hdmi, tried normal and custom gamma corrections and user profile 1 with settings reset as well as cinema and natural, and turned off all enhancements as well. I can try again with meter slightly further back if you think that could cause the difference but it appeared 2' was getting a slightly higher fl reading than 2.5' (read .1-.2 fl). I don't have an issue buying a new screen if there is one you think would match my room conditions and projector much better. Again, thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Just for kicks grab a piece of thick white paper and tape it up very lightly with a small bit of something like painter tape.
Take a reading and see what you get.
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post #1822 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by m82socr View Post
after months and months of work, the theater in the basement is finally set up as of 1am this morning. Picture is incredible! However... I have an issue. There is a lag between the picture and the sound. I have my BR player hooked to my pioneer sc-71 receiver and then to the PJ. They are all high quality hdmi redmere hdmi cables. How do I fix this? TY in advance!

Do you have clear motion or MPC on? If so try turning these off as a test. And check sync.
If things are in sync I'd check to make sure there is no motion compensation on in the Pioneer or BD player-I don't think I have seen one in a player but who knows.
Also the Pioneer likely has a lip sync setting you can try turning off/on.
When you play a BD what does the JVC show as the input resolution?

Give these a shot and report back.
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post #1823 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by trans_lux View Post
Do you have clear motion or MPC on? If so try turning these off as a test. And check sync.
If things are in sync I'd check to make sure there is no motion compensation on in the Pioneer or BD player-I don't think I have seen one in a player but who knows.
Also the Pioneer likely has a lip sync setting you can try turning off/on.
When you play a BD what does the JVC show as the input resolution?

Give these a shot and report back.
OK, so I tried turning off MPC, did nothing. I do not know how to check the sync, any help to where to check this would be greatly appreciated. I do not know where to check for the motion compensation and I think I checked every possible part of the settings and options.
I could not find a lip sync setting for the pioneer, does it go by another name or where would i find it?
The JVC shows 4k24 as resolution.
Still have the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated! thank you!
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post #1824 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 07:07 PM
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There is a setting on the Pioneer called A Delay that syncs audio and video. Turn this on and see if this resolves.
See the images below on how to access this setting.


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post #1825 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by m82socr View Post
OK, so I tried turning off MPC, did nothing. I do not know how to check the sync, any help to where to check this would be greatly appreciated. I do not know where to check for the motion compensation and I think I checked every possible part of the settings and options.
I could not find a lip sync setting for the pioneer, does it go by another name or where would i find it?
The JVC shows 4k24 as resolution.
Still have the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated! thank you!
It is impossible to turn off MPC if you are feeding the JVC a 4K signal. Switch your Blu-ray player to 1080p. Also if you are using an Oppo player, make sure you haven't set some lip synch delay in the audio options. You should be feeding the Pioneer bitstream audio and any video processing in the Pioneer AVR should be set to off (usually called direct or pass thru).

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post #1826 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 11:01 PM
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Official JVC DILA-X500R / RS49U / RS4910U Owners Thread

What Kris said...
I assume Pure will pass the video through unaltered
See below

Last edited by trans_lux; 07-04-2014 at 11:04 PM.
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post #1827 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 11:34 PM
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We've watched "Independence Day" on the 4th of July every year for the last 10 years or so. 2011, 2012, & 2013 we were using a Mitsubishi HC4000. (Our first projector) This year on the X500R was a real eye opener. What a huge improvement! The blacks, contrast, and shadow detail are amazing.
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post #1828 of 2220 Old 07-04-2014, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by PepeBiondi View Post
Hi eveyone,

I received today a brand new RS4910 from AVS (thanks again Mike). Immediatelly after I turned it on, I started getting these cyan/red evenly-distributed vertical lines (see attachments), even when no HDMI cables are connected and just by looking at the menu. I'm on the last firmware (1211.1) and already tried Factory Resets. It doesn't seem to be panel misalignment, but rather "stuck" pixels. However these lines might change location depending on the content being displayed. Already tried turning on/off everything (MPC, eShift, Picture Modes, etc).

Has anyone experienced anything similar? Do you think it's something that requires shipping it back (HUGE pain...) or a firmware/setting might correct this? Thanks in advance!

-JP.
I got my X500 back on Monday and I've put an additional 50 hours on it this week. The same issue you have is now gone after the repair (though, my vertical lines were magenta in color). Here is what Mendtronix replaced:



Looks like two boards need to be replaced to fix this issue. As you can see the start date of the repair was 5/23/14 and I got it back 6/30/14. I contacted Mendtronix a couple times for an update on the repair and it seems that JVC was the reason it took so long to get this back to me. Mendtronix was waiting for the parts. I don't know if JVC had them out of stock or their shipping/processing department just takes forever to get repair parts out. It does seem odd that Mendtronix has to request parts directly from JVC and doesn't keep repair parts stocked considering they're JVC's official and only repair center now (JVC closed down their in-house repair center). Either way, I can't complain. The dealer who I bought this unit from paid for the shipping to Mendtronix and the warranty covered the repair and return shipping. I just had to pay for the time without the projector. Either way, contact your dealer if you haven't yet. Get a replacement or get it repaired. If you have particularly good convergence and a good lens sample I'd opt for the repair as you never know what the new unit might have. Shipping to and from Mendtronix did nothing visible to the already stellar convergence my unit had pre-repair. That's why I opted for the repair instead of a replacement. Hope this helps.

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post #1829 of 2220 Old 07-05-2014, 12:19 AM
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I just wanted to comment again on how great this projector is. The dynamic iris really sets this projector apart from previous generation units. A few things I've noticed is that apparent sharpness and color saturation is higher than previous units. That's not to say that it actually is and I believe why I "see" this has a lot to do with the fact that I'm running the projector with the manual iris position fully open (DI activated). Brightness matters!! With previous generation units you had to close down the iris to get appreciably better black levels and lower APL level scene performance. With the DI you can have it all. Also, the DI is the best performing DI that I've ever encountered. Easily as good as one from Sony or Runco and from a few hundred hours of exposure to it, it seems, on average, to be more well behaved compared to the competition. There is a rare (and I mean rare, as in MAYBE once during a whole movie) occurrence of a flicker when you go to a new scene or new shot where the content on screen is at a point where the DI just can't make up it's mind. This "flicker" lasts for less than 2 seconds and then it's back to normal. Otherwise it's invisible. There is also almost never any noticeable brightness compression and, just like flicker, only RARE occurrences of clipped whites. I'm sure JVC can alleviate this next year all together if they offer one new mode that is a tad less aggressive. The flickering issue can be fixed no matter the aggressiveness.

With it's max light-output in a calibrated mode coming very close to Sony's VPL-VW600ES, this unit is a true bargain for those looking to fill a huge screen and get max contrast. Other than perhaps the novelty of owning a 4K projector currently I see no reason for anyone to opt for the Sony, which is double the street price of this unit. Sure you get 4K, a slightly nicer lens, slightly higher ANSI contrast, but with real world content are you really going to notice the difference on 1080p content? As many others have already pointed out, not really. This isn't a hit directly at the Sony 600ES but more of a merit of the X500's amazing value it has in out still almost completely 1080p world.

Also, if JVC does announce a 4K model at CEDIA this year. I'll be the first to pre-order as I'm sure the PQ a new 4K light engine JVC devises will be nothing short of amazing and hopefully trounce what Sony currently has out.

Yup I'm becoming a JVC fanboy unintentionally more and more each day. That's something I almost resent. But the PQ keeps that resentment at bay.

Last edited by Seegs108; 07-05-2014 at 12:23 AM.
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post #1830 of 2220 Old 07-05-2014, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
7. Raising brightness to 1 and the dark level up a few clicks in the gamma menu (for white) helps resolve digital 18 with no issues. Resolving digital 17 wont' happen without raising your black floor quite a bit. So you either hurt contrast for that one digital value or you just live with it.
This is exctly what I experienced. Raising brightness to reslove digital 17 was affecting my black floor a lot. I now use brightness at a much lower value, losing minimal shadow detail but making my black floor clearly better!

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