Official JVC DILA-X500R / RS49U / RS4910U Owners Thread - Page 7 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 43Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #181 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 08:00 PM
Member
 
FraggleRock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 65
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Cannelli,

Thanks for the tip. About 90 minutes ago I powered off the unit and unplugged it for about two minutes. I didn't do a factory reset in it but I'm happy to say the problem hasn't returned since. I did go into my PS3 system menu and turned off HDMI control, which may have contributed to the problem initially.

It's too early for real judgement, but I will say that I'm really liking what I'm seeing for the most part and it looks like it will be a nice upgrade from the X55.

I haven't really noticed any image pumping although I do notice on complete fade to blacks there is a very slight delay between the fade to black and the clamp down on the iris a few tenths of a second after that take it to complete black, which is cool. This is running out if the box right now with the lens aperture in auto 1.

I will say that the unit definitely seems brighter than my X55 (even factoring in the new bulb vs. the bulb with 950 hours), but in full disclosure my X55 had been out of the house for two months now.

I don't have dedicated calibration gear at the moment so I'll look to others for measurements and general accuracy of the profiles, gamma, etc. I hope to get it calibrated one the bulb gets some hours on it.

For reference, I'm projecting onto a 130" wide (141.3" diagonal) Seymour AT screen at a throw distance of just over 15' from the screen. This puts regular 16:9 screen size at ~113". Given the larger 2.35 image size with zooming, I've needed every lumen I can get. Room is a bat cave...
FraggleRock is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #182 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 08:23 PM
Senior Member
 
mntwister's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 432
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I was reading about throw distance and contrast. My setup is I have a 159" Da-Lite screen with 2.4 gain. I have the projector 16.1 feet back, which is the minimum throw to fill the screen. The projector sits on a 5-draw bedroom dresser and is directly back from the center of the screen. I do have the option of going further back, will that be of any benefit? Can someone please tell me which is a better position, minimum throw or further away? Will any of this affect 3D or brightness? Thanks.

ps: I don't have my 4910 yet so I can't comment on its picture as yet.
mntwister is offline  
post #183 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 08:33 PM
AVS Special Member
 
lovingdvd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,818
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

Got my 4910 today, hooked up and configured no problem (coming from 3 DLPs, 1 Sim2). Watched some mixed content for a couple hours, no problems with synch on either HDMI, no iris pumping though I've watched no torture test scenes. Convergence is very good with red only a half pixel low, coming from a single chip DLP, there's a negligible difference between the sharpness of this unit and an average single chip DLP. Brightness measures an average just short of 1070 lumens on 106" screen from 14 feet (lamp high, non eco, DI#2, 6500, Cinema). I don't really see any advantage to e-shift3, I A-B'd quite a bit on DirecTV HD and Blu-ray...I saw a smoothing effect with some BD material, generally, DTV was softer with it on than off. Just my opinion...

Is that a 106" diagonal screen? That's the same size as my screen, and my throw is very similar - 15.5' vs your 14'. Am I correct to assume your lumens measure was taken with the iris fully opened? When you have a chance can you try closing it down 1/2 way and almost all the way and see what the lumen output is? Did you take any on/off reasons or ANSI CR?

Thanks!
lovingdvd is offline  
post #184 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 08:38 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
mark haflich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: brookeville, maryland, usa
Posts: 19,280
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 112 Post(s)
Liked: 312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor Bill View Post

Hi,

I just received my 4910. I have temporarily set it on a table and hooked it up to our Dish Hopper. I adjusted the focus, shift and zoom and it looks great compared to my Panasonic Ae900u. I went through the manual twice at a quick speed. I have noticed that lines are not straight. I turned on a football game and the further to the side of the screen, the worse the effect and in fact the side edge of the picture is bowed inward. Can someone advise if this is simply an adjustment that has escaped my mind or is it a flaw??


Misalignment of your projector can not cause a bowed inward line and your poor projector can not cause a bowed line on its own.

Projectors unfortunately require (leaving aside certain curved and torus screens) one plane to project on (a flat surface) to align the lens perfectly parallel too. IF YOU ARE GETTING A SIDE BOW IN, YOU ARE NOT PROJECTING ON A SINGLE PLANE. YOUR SCREEN ALONG THE SIDE WHERE THE BOWED IN IS BOWED TOWARD THE PROJECTOR. Sorry caps got stuck on. Imagine moving the screen closer to the projector. The image will get smaller. So you screen is too close at every spot along the curve. Try shimming the screen out with shims under the frame at the corners near the curved edge. The idea is you want one plane. This is absolutely your problem. No ifs, and or buts. Your screen is bowed along the offending edge. Probably because your wall is slightly bowed.

Mark Haflich
markhaflich@yahoo.com
call me at: 240 876 2536
mark haflich is offline  
post #185 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 08:41 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
mark haflich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: brookeville, maryland, usa
Posts: 19,280
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 112 Post(s)
Liked: 312
Calibrate with the intelligent iris off. All auto irises will cause gray scale shifts. You just have to live with them. Most won't notice the shifting in temp at various points or bands along the gray scale that sall intelligent irises or dynamic irises cause.

Mark Haflich
markhaflich@yahoo.com
call me at: 240 876 2536
mark haflich is offline  
post #186 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 08:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mbw23air's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: KY
Posts: 2,730
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by mntwister View Post

I was reading about throw distance and contrast. My setup is I have a 159" Da-Lite screen with 2.4 gain. I have the projector 16.1 feet back, which is the minimum throw to fill the screen. The projector sits on a 5-draw bedroom dresser and is directly back from the center of the screen. I do have the option of going further back, will that be of any benefit? Can someone please tell me which is a better position, minimum throw or further away? Will any of this affect 3D or brightness? Thanks.

ps: I don't have my 4910 yet so I can't comment on its picture as yet.

Minimum throw equals more brightness but less contrast
Maximum throw equals less brightness and more contrast

I'm not sure if there is any effect on 3D as far as throw but of course you would want the brightest image possible for 3D. I always use minimum throw in my setup as I can always close iris to get more contrast. You will have to decide what's more important to you and decide on throw that way but with your screen size, even though it is a high gain, I would mount as close as possible.

Mike

The Mayans were full of sh*t!!!
mbw23air is offline  
post #187 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 09:00 PM
AVS Special Member
 
blee0120's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Merillville, IN 46410
Posts: 3,527
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by mntwister View Post

I was reading about throw distance and contrast. My setup is I have a 159" Da-Lite screen with 2.4 gain. I have the projector 16.1 feet back, which is the minimum throw to fill the screen. The projector sits on a 5-draw bedroom dresser and is directly back from the center of the screen. I do have the option of going further back, will that be of any benefit? Can someone please tell me which is a better position, minimum throw or further away? Will any of this affect 3D or brightness? Thanks.

ps: I don't have my 4910 yet so I can't comment on its picture as yet.

I think its best to go with the shortest throw with the HP screens, then lower the iris to get good contrast. With the RS55 I had, I got 55K contrast with the iris at -15 and I still got 14ftL, then with the RS48, I got 45K at -15 with 16ftL. I went with a 1.1 gain screen now, so I could get similar results with the RS57. I hear its contrast is astounding, on a HP screen with the II, I bet its amazing.
blee0120 is online now  
post #188 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 09:25 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
mark haflich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: brookeville, maryland, usa
Posts: 19,280
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 112 Post(s)
Liked: 312
Why would the contrast be better with a screen with gain? My contrast meter which ranges from PP, eh, OK, good, better, great, outstanding, amazing, unbelievable, and HS Thank You Babe, reads the same for any one projector regardless of the screen material. Is my meter broken?

Mark Haflich
markhaflich@yahoo.com
call me at: 240 876 2536
mark haflich is offline  
post #189 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 09:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
johnsmith808's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,818
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 30
I'm sure you already know this but with the hp screen you can close the iris down to achieve higher contrast and still have sufficient brightness due to the screen gain.
johnsmith808 is offline  
post #190 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 09:37 PM
AVS Special Member
 
blee0120's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Merillville, IN 46410
Posts: 3,527
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

Why would the contrast be better with a screen with gain? My contrast meter which ranges from PP, eh, OK, good, better, great, outstanding, amazing, unbelievable, and HS Thank You Babe, reads the same for any one projector regardless of the screen material. Is my meter broken?

Unless you are using an 80in 1.0 gain screen, nobody is going to be getting those numbers with watchable lumens. Say someone has a 120in screen. With a HP screen, I got 55,000:1 contrast with the RS55 at -15 and that gave me 14.5ftL. On a 120in 1.0 gain screen, I would get 6ftL, or I can open the iris up to get 25,000:1 with a similar ftL reading.

I had a 120in HP 2.4 screen with a 100in SI Gamma 1.1 gain screen at the same time. The HP screen was electric and the SI was a fixed frame. I just lowered the HP screen over the SI screen. The HP screen was by far the better screen and looked much better. The contrast was much better because I had to open the iris up more on the SI screen to get similar brightness.
blee0120 is online now  
post #191 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 09:40 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Seegs108's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Schenectady, New York
Posts: 3,737
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 96 Post(s)
Liked: 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

Why would the contrast be better with a screen with gain? My contrast meter which ranges from PP, eh, OK, good, better, great, outstanding, amazing, unbelievable, and HS Thank You Babe, reads the same for any one projector regardless of the screen material. Is my meter broken?

Yeah, contrast should stay the same. The gain just shifts the peak white level and black level. Though, there may be a perceived change.
Seegs108 is online now  
post #192 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 09:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
blee0120's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Merillville, IN 46410
Posts: 3,527
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsmith808 View Post

I'm sure you already know this but with the hp screen you can close the iris down to achieve higher contrast and still have sufficient brightness due to the screen gain.

I'm sure he knows that, he just dislikes the HP screen. However, if you can mount it on a shelf while being in its narrow cone, I don't see a better screen after owning many screens.
blee0120 is online now  
post #193 of 1968 Old 12-27-2013, 11:14 PM
Toe
AVS Addicted Member
 
Toe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 12,957
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 402
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

Why would the contrast be better with a screen with gain? My contrast meter which ranges from PP, eh, OK, good, better, great, outstanding, amazing, unbelievable, and HS Thank You Babe, reads the same for any one projector regardless of the screen material. Is my meter broken?

You know the answer to this Mark. smile.gif One reason many of us love the HP with the JVCs is it allows us to clamp down the iris and/or mount the projector further back to take advantage of more of that awesome JVC native contrast while still getting excellent brightness which you can't do on a 1.0 screen in comparison. This is how a HP can give you more contrast (of course the actual screen is not changing the contrast) Not to mention you also get a much brighter 3d image. The HP/JVC combo is very attractive for many of us in light of that.

JVC 3D: Been there, done that, bought a DLP
Toe is online now  
post #194 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 12:06 AM
Member
 
canelli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have had the HDMI handshake issue appear a few times. Powering off and unplugging it seems to remedy / clear out the problem.

The problem seems to occur when I switch channels and the resolutions are different. I locked the resolution to 1080i on my DTV box and hope that solves the problem for now.

Hopefully JVC will update the firmware asap.
canelli is offline  
post #195 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 02:44 AM
Member
 
jj-34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Montpellier, France
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Nobody to give me a hint ? Sorry to up that early, but offer may not last very long ......

This would be a first VP that I'd like to keep a long time.
Thanks anyway
Quote:
Originally Posted by jj-34 View Post

A choice question, if you'd be offered a real RS56 (used and lamp about 100 hours but in almost new condition) still having 1 year warranty for about 4000 Euros against waiting for a new X500 advertized at 4990 Euros, what would be your choice ?

Thanks.
jj-34 is offline  
post #196 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 02:58 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
SOWK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wauwatosa, WI
Posts: 3,913
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 43 Post(s)
Liked: 84
SOWK is online now  
post #197 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 03:01 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
SOWK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wauwatosa, WI
Posts: 3,913
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 43 Post(s)
Liked: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by canelli View Post


Hopefully JVC will update the firmware asap.

Yes, they will. And it will be only $4999.99 MSRP... Called next years models... biggrin.gif

I think it's wide spread enough they will. Don't worry yet...
SOWK is online now  
post #198 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 03:43 AM
AVS Special Member
 
pottscb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,264
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Yep, same here. Ran fine yesterday, turned it on this morning to "no signal" on my Sony BD-S790, though its interesting to note, it would pickup a signal from DirecTV (my Panasonic VT30 was displaying signals from both), Unplugged it for 2 minutest and it picked up both signals immediately.

Question: How do you get the 4910 to see blacker than black info.? My VT30 is showing it from the same source. The JVC is on Cinema mode, make any difference?
pottscb is offline  
post #199 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 03:55 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Manni01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,220
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

Question: How do you get the 4910 to see blacker than black info.? My VT30 is showing it from the same source. The JVC is on Cinema mode, make any difference?

You need to select HDMI enhanced (both standard and superwhite do no show BtB). However, why would you want to see BtB with standard video sources? As long as black is black and 17 just shows, you're good to go smile.gif. There is nothing (useful) to be seen below black. THX forces superwhite, so you have to avoid that mode to show BtB, but not an issue on 4910.
Of course, it's different if you're showing full RGB from a PC, but in that case make sure the source is sending Full RGB as well and the AVR is not clipping either.
Manni01 is offline  
post #200 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 03:59 AM
AVS Special Member
 
pottscb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,264
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 35
I cannot see blackest bars on pluge pattern to set shadow detail...so, HDMI enhanced will fix? (4910 doesn't have THX, I'm using cinema and turned off superwhite, should I turn it back on?)
pottscb is offline  
post #201 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 04:11 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Manni01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,220
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

I cannot see blackest bars on pluge pattern to set shadow detail...so, HDMI enhanced will fix? (4910 doesn't have THX, I'm using cinema and turned off superwhite, should I turn it back on?)

It depends on the pluge pattern you are using, but in any case, for standard video content, you are not supposed to see BtB. Level 16 should be black, and 17 should barely show. The lower levels (0-15) should NOT show. In other words, the blackest bars (bars blacker than level 16 on a pluge pattern) are not meant to be seen. They are there to let you know if you are showing something that shouldn't be visible, not to be seen. You tune brightness until those disappear into black (level 16), and only barely show level 17 (if your pluge pattern shows level 17, some of them show a higher level). The free AVS HD calibration disc (on this forum, just do a search) has a great pattern for this and many other things, so I recommend using it if you are not already doing so.

Standard shows 16-235, so it clips above 235 which is an issue for some. In my opinion, unless you have a lot of spare brightness or don't care about contrast, that's the mode to use for standard video sources with the JVCs.
Enhanced shows 0-255, so it should only be used with full RGB sources (like an HTPC set to full RGB) or if you adjust brightness (and contrast) to not show 0-15 for standard video sources. If you use a Radiance, in most cases you get better results using 422 in standard, even out of an HTPC, as the radiance can use its internal 12 bits pipeline for most calculations.
Superwhite (forced in THX mode if your model has THX) shows 16-255, so it won't do anything in relation to 0-15. Unless you don't care about on/off and peak brightness, I recommend raising contrast until you clip over 240 max, as leaving contrast at the default of 0 to resolve up to 255 really kills your on/off and peak brightness to show the very occasional (and theoretical for 99% of content) specular effect.

If you want to show shadow detail which is meant to be seen (17-20, not 0-15), you need to make sure you don't crush blacks with a too high gamma, like say a power 2.4 when your display only has 25000:1 on/off due to your set up. That's what will hurt levels 17-20 and will crush blacks. But if you show levels 0-15, you are showing detail that is not intended to be seen eek.gif.

Which source are you using, and how is the source set? Which gamma curve are you targeting? If your meter can read your black level reliably, BT1886 is a good way to make sure you don't crush blacks (as long as your calibration software handles this mode correctly).
Manni01 is offline  
post #202 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 05:04 AM
Member
 
SSUNBRN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 128
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
FYI; owners manual for the DLA-RS4910 is available at the link below. I had to search for DLA-RS6710 in order to find it.

http://books.jvc.com/Download/882081486/PC027183799.pdf
odedia likes this.
SSUNBRN is offline  
post #203 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 05:13 AM
AVS Special Member
 
pottscb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,264
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 35
I'm using DVE-HD and the Pluge pattern with the 3 black bars on each side. I'm aware that BtB isn't supposed to be shown, but its nice to have to set black levels correctly and weird that my plasma shows it and JVC doesn't (so, if I set to enhanced to calibrate, I'll have to leave it i enhanced or can I change? Not sure if is a global adjustment or specific to picture mode).
pottscb is offline  
post #204 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 05:18 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Manni01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,220
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked: 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

I'm using DVE-HD and the Pluge pattern with the 3 black bars on each side. I'm aware that BtB isn't supposed to be shown, but its nice to have to set black levels correctly and weird that my plasma shows it and JVC doesn't (so, if I set to enhanced to calibrate, I'll have to leave it i enhanced or can I change? Not sure if is a global adjustment or specific to picture mode).

I don't know this pattern, so you have to find out which level each bar is showing. Irrespective of the pattern used, for standard video content (DVD, bluray, SD/HDTV) you only want to show black (16) and above. Not below. Standard doesn't show BtB, but that doesn't prevent you from adjusting brightness to only show 16 and above, so I don't see in which way showing BtB helps for that.

Yes if you adjust brightness in enhanced you have to leave it in enhanced as the levels do not match exactly between the modes, especially with superwhite.

A JVC set up properly in standard mode doesn't clip 17 and above, which is the only way to crush blacks (that are meant to be seen).

You are not answering the question. Is your source set to full RGB (0-255) or to standard (16-235)? You have to select the right mode on the display accordingly (so that black on the display is mapped to the same black as on the source, ie 0 or 16 depending on the mode). Otherwise if you select enhanced with a standard source the only thing you are doing is bringing it back to the standard level when adjusting brightness (if you do it correctly). With standard video sources, using enhanced or superwhite is only a valid option with the JVCs if you want to show higher than 235 (these elusive specular effects not present in 99% of the content we normally watch) at the expense of peak brightness and on/off contrast (which will hurt 99% of the content we watch). But in all three modes, brightness should be adjusted to only show 16 and above.

AKAIK the HDMI standard/enhanced setting is global per input. So it's applied to all picture modes for that HDMI input.
Manni01 is offline  
post #205 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 05:33 AM
AVS Special Member
 
pottscb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,264
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

Got my 4910 today, hooked up and configured no problem (coming from 3 DLPs, 1 Sim2). Watched some mixed content for a couple hours, no problems with synch on either HDMI, no iris pumping though I've watched no torture test scenes. Convergence is very good with red only a half pixel low, coming from a single chip DLP, there's a negligible difference between the sharpness of this unit and an average single chip DLP. Brightness measures an average just short of 1070 lumens on 106" screen from 14 feet (lamp high, non eco, DI#2, 6500, Cinema). I don't really see any advantage to e-shift3, I A-B'd quite a bit on DirecTV HD and Blu-ray...I saw a smoothing effect with some BD material, generally, DTV was softer with it on than off. Just my opinion...

Watched more content specifically looking for iris pumping. Watched BD of Harry Potter DH:2 with the iris set to manual and closed almost all the way (-14) with lamp on low. Looked damn good, blacks are great (similar to VT30 plasma, maybe a step behind with 1.0 gain screen) and shadow detail was great though JVC still hasn't fixed the "dithering" problem (noise in blackest scenes), though my VT30 does it to some extent as well if you get as close enough to fill the same field of view as the pj. Then I turned the brightness back up to default and turned the Iris mode 1 on and watched the same scenes. There was a difference though it seems to me like the iris brightens whites more than lowers blacks (vs. the manual iris clamped down all the way). I never saw the iris action, there was one point that looked like iris action but pretty sure it was just lighting changing in the scene of the movie. This is probably the most seemless iris I've seen short of the Sony HW50 (and pretty even there). Don't have it calibrated for colors, and the colors on this movie and wonky anyway so no comments there. Hopefully as the lamp dims I can switch to high lamp and close the manual iris all the way down for dark movies, it looked very rich. Also, with the DI, you can set the manual iris to all the way open or all the way closed and then engage the DI and there is a difference between the two. (Not sure if its using the manual iris range as the MLL or brightest point the DI can reach...my guess from watching the DI is the brightest possible)

More later.
Craig Peer likes this.
pottscb is offline  
post #206 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 08:34 AM
Member
 
Sailor Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 124
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Mark,

You are correct in that my screen had a slight bow in it. It was approximately 5/16". I found some sort of adjustment on the projector that straightened it out but I had to use the entire range. I probably accepted this over time with the old projector and it didn't have the green lines to focus on so it was probably there and I didn't know it. Now if I can figure out why the HDMI2 doesn't work and why my old Oppo wouldn't work, I can rest easy. I am concerned with putting more than four hours on the lamp if I indeed have any unresolvable problems. Thanks for your input.
Sailor Bill is offline  
post #207 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 08:37 AM
Newbie
 
ziantos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12

Update:

 

Spoke with a friend who ordered the same projector. Doing a factory reset by pushing up, down, right, left, ok on the remote and scrolling down to factory reset fixed my HDMI handshake issues.

 

Seems like a firmware update will/should come soon to fix these issues as the problem is not isolated to my projector.

cardoski likes this.
ziantos is offline  
post #208 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 10:59 AM
AVS Special Member
 
lovingdvd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 8,818
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by pottscb View Post

Watched more content specifically looking for iris pumping. Watched BD of Harry Potter DH:2 with the iris set to manual and closed almost all the way (-14) with lamp on low. Looked damn good, blacks are great (similar to VT30 plasma, maybe a step behind with 1.0 gain screen) and shadow detail was great though JVC still hasn't fixed the "dithering" problem (noise in blackest scenes), though my VT30 does it to some extent as well if you get as close enough to fill the same field of view as the pj. Then I turned the brightness back up to default and turned the Iris mode 1 on and watched the same scenes. There was a difference though it seems to me like the iris brightens whites more than lowers blacks (vs. the manual iris clamped down all the way). I never saw the iris action, there was one point that looked like iris action but pretty sure it was just lighting changing in the scene of the movie. This is probably the most seemless iris I've seen short of the Sony HW50 (and pretty even there). Don't have it calibrated for colors, and the colors on this movie and wonky anyway so no comments there. Hopefully as the lamp dims I can switch to high lamp and close the manual iris all the way down for dark movies, it looked very rich. Also, with the DI, you can set the manual iris to all the way open or all the way closed and then engage the DI and there is a difference between the two. (Not sure if its using the manual iris range as the MLL or brightest point the DI can reach...my guess from watching the DI is the brightest possible)

More later.

What is your impression so far for auto iris on vs off? Does turning it on offer a significant improvement?
lovingdvd is offline  
post #209 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 11:09 AM
Advanced Member
 
seanbryan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Pen's Woods
Posts: 532
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor Bill View Post

Mark,

You are correct in that my screen had a slight bow in it. It was approximately 5/16". I found some sort of adjustment on the projector that straightened it out but I had to use the entire range. I probably accepted this over time with the old projector and it didn't have the green lines to focus on so it was probably there and I didn't know it. Now if I can figure out why the HDMI2 doesn't work and why my old Oppo wouldn't work, I can rest easy. I am concerned with putting more than four hours on the lamp if I indeed have any unresolvable problems. Thanks for your input.

Bill, the adjustment in the projector that straightened out your problem... was it the keystone adjustment?

Just FYI, it is highly recommended to avoid using the keystone adjustment as the scaling involved degrades image quality.

I'd recommend taking Mark's advice about shimming out the screen and correcting the issue at the screen as opposed to digitally. That should give you a better end result.
seanbryan is offline  
post #210 of 1968 Old 12-28-2013, 12:14 PM
Member
 
pdxfj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Also experienced a HDMI lockup last night. At least the projector was responsive and allowed me to shut it down instead of having to pull the plug.

I had hoped JVC had resolved this issue since the RS40...Let's hope a firmware update is released soon.

Other than that, been happy with the projector so far. Guess I should knuckle down and take the time to really dial it in, then calibrate it with the Lumagen.
pdxfj is offline  
Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

Tags
Jvc

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off